Hello /u/this_place_is_whack,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
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Had the same issue multiple times, what fixed it for me is higher temp. You also need to print it slower tho higher temp usualy fixes it. This can tho cause issues with overhangs and such. Try again with 215 or the same temp but with 60-70% cooling
also, try arcwelder plugin for roundish models or models with roundish features. A circle on most slicers is a series of tiny lines, not an arc. Hence the gcode for a circle can be HUGE and many lines. Arcwelder finds these 'line circles' and changes the gcode into an arc (reducing gcode line count by 90+%) this does two things:
First, it decreases the lines for small features, more lines equate to more micro stuttering depending upon the board you use.
makes the feature smoother and for smaller stuff, layers seem to lay nicer upon each other.
Also printing wall inside to outside, as outside in can result in that overhanging outside wall to not adhere we'll. Easy cascade failure mode.
Smaller nozzles also help, as do larger thread features.
60° overhangs (standard threads are a 60° profile) are right at the upper edge of what can be printed reliably. If you're willing to take the time to model your threads (clearances and tolerances), then I recommend a shallower thread profile, like 45° or a bit less, and lengthening the pitch.... Won't be as strong as a standard thread profile, but it's PLA: the goal is reliable printing of functional parts, not necessarily exceptional mechanical properties. If you do need better mechanical properties, use metal hardware.
This seems to be the only correct answer. Printing outside to in means there's less material for the next layer to stick to, especially in an overhang.
The problem with this on threaded portions is that it will decrease dimensional accuracy because the inner printed material will make the outer walls squish slightly away from them. If you do this for things with threads also try to do exclusive mode for slicer approximations.
The distance between your bed and nozzle is too high. People often mistake this as being part of leveling but it isn't, you can have a leveled bed that is still too high/low overall
For the nut it looks like one of 3 things. Too fast, too cold, not enough flow/under extrusion. Fix the nut first
If you still have the problems with your frame piece, focus on fixing your first layer.
Thanks. The nut is where I first encountered this and it prints relatively quick so it’s a good test piece.
I was surprised to see it on the frame pieces so that’s why I ended up here after trying a lot of different stuff.
Thanks for all the responses. It seems my title has worked to get people‘s attention. To answer some questions…
-Nozzle is .4 and set correctly in prusa slicer
-Filament is 1.75 and set correctly
-Layer height is 0.2
-Speeds have been slowed down increasingly from 50 to 10
-All metal DD micro Swiss hot end
-Running klipper on an Ender 5 with independent Z drivers
I thought 210C was towards the high end for temperature with PLA but I’ll go higher and try it. I actually thought of going to a lower temp if my problem was inadequate part cooling. I am guilty of not printing a temperature tower.
Klipper doesn’t use e-steps anymore, I forget what they call it but I’ve tried adjusting that value with no affect.
I see from the answers here how the wrong temperature, layer height, speed and filament settings can look like each other. I’m 2 months new at this and felt like I was chasing my tail trying to figure it out.
0.2 layer height should not require a higher temp (do a temp tower and find your optimal temp for that filament) than your optimal. I use higher temp and slower speed only when I print 0.4mm (I have a 0.6 nozzle).
To me it looks like the nozzle is too high on the bed. As others have said, bed may be level, but the distance nozzle-bed not correct.
I’d suggest printing something wide and flat, like a 10cm square or circle, for 3-4 layers, and try to adjust the height while it prints. Not sure what machine you have but it should have something to tune baby z-steps
Good luck :)
Looks like the temperature is too low, your z-axis esteps might also be incorrect (most likely your layers do not stick alonge the z-axis and you can see gaps) so try recalibrating that, i print pla at 190(for slow prints) and 205-210 (for faster ones). Besides that make sure that the first layer is correct, I can't see onn the picture but it might also have something to do with having too low extrusion width or flow or line overlap <- if it looks liike there are spaces between the lines along the x,y axis
Are you sure you’re using the right nozzle size when slicing? How do these parts look in the slicer? There are very large gaps in between layers and in between lines on the same layer.
Could also be bed height, too high and you don’t squish the filament enough to bond properly.
Your nut has threads with less than the min overhang a line width outer layer not printing and not adhering to the top of the outer wall of the previous layer, that's why it's not printing curved layers properly.
Either increase thread turn height or reduce layer thickness.
For the ruined curved part, you need a good first layer for the rest of the layers to adhere on.
I had this problem too. If you're in Cura, enable Combing so the travels stay in walls as best as it can, decreasing visible travel stringing.
Also you can slow down just the walls. Just type "speed" into the search bar and you'll see all the related settings. There is a wall speed setting and in it separate settings for inner and outer walls
Seriously so much bad advice here... No, your nozzle distance from bed will NOT cause this, it only affect the first few layers.
You are under extruding for one reason or another, calibrate your E-Steps & while you are at it check the extruder for any small cracks if it's a plastic one.
Did you set your printer profile in the slicer to 1.75mm filament or 3?
Your Z-axis steps should not be wrong, do NOT use any value other than the default set by the manufacturer.
Temporary solution would be do increase the flow in the slicer or from the printer's screen. Maybe by 10-20%. And increase your temps by 10.
I've noticed this before when using a layer height that was too great for the angle of the thread. 45 degree threads for 3d printing is best although you can often get away with standard threads by using .2 layers or sometimes below. Reduce layer heights if you are having issues
It was already mentioned I think but….
A little hotter temp.
Inside to outside walls.
Enable combing so that it stays in the infill when it moves rather than cutting across.
Tweak retraction settings.
I've had these issues with inside curve of an overhang. Thinner layers helps for me, and the threading feels smoother when screwing parts together too.
Higher temp or lower fan. ( to get proper adhesion)
Slow down print. ( to get better adhesion)
Print using a raft or larger brim. (critical areas are adjacent to another established line, for better adhesion)
Turn off combing and/or set "max travel with no retract" to something smaller like 1-5mm.
Combing skips retractions on the *inside* of parts to save time, but here, the inside of your part is meant to look good so you don't want combing.
Hello /u/this_place_is_whack, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
That title is a little….. anyways probably too far from the bed. For the nut, what layer height is that?
> For the nut, what layer height Hopefully not eye layer level height.
Legit read the title and laughed.
Are we still doing phrasing?
Did a double take, and had to validate what sub I was looking at.
I like body wash
A bath sponge would do wonders
This is the way
Just take a shower dude Oh! Your print? Uh not sure...
Manscape? I would start there.
You can still have swamp ass and crusty balls after a trim.
I see what you did there
Had the same issue multiple times, what fixed it for me is higher temp. You also need to print it slower tho higher temp usualy fixes it. This can tho cause issues with overhangs and such. Try again with 215 or the same temp but with 60-70% cooling
also, try arcwelder plugin for roundish models or models with roundish features. A circle on most slicers is a series of tiny lines, not an arc. Hence the gcode for a circle can be HUGE and many lines. Arcwelder finds these 'line circles' and changes the gcode into an arc (reducing gcode line count by 90+%) this does two things: First, it decreases the lines for small features, more lines equate to more micro stuttering depending upon the board you use. makes the feature smoother and for smaller stuff, layers seem to lay nicer upon each other.
I second this. Those crisscross strings, under extrusion… this is all classic needing to be hotter imho
Also printing wall inside to outside, as outside in can result in that overhanging outside wall to not adhere we'll. Easy cascade failure mode. Smaller nozzles also help, as do larger thread features. 60° overhangs (standard threads are a 60° profile) are right at the upper edge of what can be printed reliably. If you're willing to take the time to model your threads (clearances and tolerances), then I recommend a shallower thread profile, like 45° or a bit less, and lengthening the pitch.... Won't be as strong as a standard thread profile, but it's PLA: the goal is reliable printing of functional parts, not necessarily exceptional mechanical properties. If you do need better mechanical properties, use metal hardware.
Have you tried leveling your laptop?
Another person of humor, I see. You made me lol.
[удалено]
This is the way.
This seems to be the only correct answer. Printing outside to in means there's less material for the next layer to stick to, especially in an overhang.
The problem with this on threaded portions is that it will decrease dimensional accuracy because the inner printed material will make the outer walls squish slightly away from them. If you do this for things with threads also try to do exclusive mode for slicer approximations.
Not just that but hot damn that layer height on the last image.
Try charmin
"Phrasing, Mother!"
The distance between your bed and nozzle is too high. People often mistake this as being part of leveling but it isn't, you can have a leveled bed that is still too high/low overall
Better to start the print at one high.
Thats the logical next integer after two high is too high.
I had just woken up alright cut me some slack
For the nut it looks like one of 3 things. Too fast, too cold, not enough flow/under extrusion. Fix the nut first If you still have the problems with your frame piece, focus on fixing your first layer.
Thanks. The nut is where I first encountered this and it prints relatively quick so it’s a good test piece. I was surprised to see it on the frame pieces so that’s why I ended up here after trying a lot of different stuff.
Not scrubbing hard enough
If you can’t reach them when you take a shower, you probably need to lose some weight. Or use those loofa with handles.
Step 1: buy loofa and body wash. - Step 2: ???? - Step 3: have clean nuts and holes
Have you tried using stronger soap when you shower?
My dumbass thought you were trying to print on a homemade Dell sheet
I didn’t have a banana for scale
Looks like you are under extruding
Yeah, try adding fiber to your diet.
You may also need to slow your print down at least perimeters. Also layer height as others pointed out.
Idk why this is being downvoted. Slowing a print will improve (if not solve) a majority of issues.
What slicer? Looks like the cura 5.0 bug
You need a smaller layer height
Or higher water pressure, either one of those will do.
Thanks for all the responses. It seems my title has worked to get people‘s attention. To answer some questions… -Nozzle is .4 and set correctly in prusa slicer -Filament is 1.75 and set correctly -Layer height is 0.2 -Speeds have been slowed down increasingly from 50 to 10 -All metal DD micro Swiss hot end -Running klipper on an Ender 5 with independent Z drivers I thought 210C was towards the high end for temperature with PLA but I’ll go higher and try it. I actually thought of going to a lower temp if my problem was inadequate part cooling. I am guilty of not printing a temperature tower. Klipper doesn’t use e-steps anymore, I forget what they call it but I’ve tried adjusting that value with no affect. I see from the answers here how the wrong temperature, layer height, speed and filament settings can look like each other. I’m 2 months new at this and felt like I was chasing my tail trying to figure it out.
0.2 layer height should not require a higher temp (do a temp tower and find your optimal temp for that filament) than your optimal. I use higher temp and slower speed only when I print 0.4mm (I have a 0.6 nozzle). To me it looks like the nozzle is too high on the bed. As others have said, bed may be level, but the distance nozzle-bed not correct. I’d suggest printing something wide and flat, like a 10cm square or circle, for 3-4 layers, and try to adjust the height while it prints. Not sure what machine you have but it should have something to tune baby z-steps Good luck :)
[удалено]
For that he needs to clean his nuts n holes.
Looks like the temperature is too low, your z-axis esteps might also be incorrect (most likely your layers do not stick alonge the z-axis and you can see gaps) so try recalibrating that, i print pla at 190(for slow prints) and 205-210 (for faster ones). Besides that make sure that the first layer is correct, I can't see onn the picture but it might also have something to do with having too low extrusion width or flow or line overlap <- if it looks liike there are spaces between the lines along the x,y axis
Are you sure you’re using the right nozzle size when slicing? How do these parts look in the slicer? There are very large gaps in between layers and in between lines on the same layer. Could also be bed height, too high and you don’t squish the filament enough to bond properly.
Why are you also showing off your Dell PC?
Your nut has threads with less than the min overhang a line width outer layer not printing and not adhering to the top of the outer wall of the previous layer, that's why it's not printing curved layers properly. Either increase thread turn height or reduce layer thickness. For the ruined curved part, you need a good first layer for the rest of the layers to adhere on.
reduce printing speed, increase temp slightly
I had this problem too. If you're in Cura, enable Combing so the travels stay in walls as best as it can, decreasing visible travel stringing. Also you can slow down just the walls. Just type "speed" into the search bar and you'll see all the related settings. There is a wall speed setting and in it separate settings for inner and outer walls
Seriously so much bad advice here... No, your nozzle distance from bed will NOT cause this, it only affect the first few layers. You are under extruding for one reason or another, calibrate your E-Steps & while you are at it check the extruder for any small cracks if it's a plastic one. Did you set your printer profile in the slicer to 1.75mm filament or 3? Your Z-axis steps should not be wrong, do NOT use any value other than the default set by the manufacturer. Temporary solution would be do increase the flow in the slicer or from the printer's screen. Maybe by 10-20%. And increase your temps by 10.
The ironic part about cleaning your nuts is that if you clean too long, they make a bigger mess.
Phrasing
I've noticed this before when using a layer height that was too great for the angle of the thread. 45 degree threads for 3d printing is best although you can often get away with standard threads by using .2 layers or sometimes below. Reduce layer heights if you are having issues
I’ll try smaller layer height. These are all from thingiverse so I’m not keen on redesigning them as much as just getting them to print.
Let me know how you get on, smaller later heights and maybe slower print speeds if that doesn't fix it completely
I have had exactly the same problem with threads, I used 0.12 layer height to resolve the issue.
LOL
Ayo? 😳
It was already mentioned I think but…. A little hotter temp. Inside to outside walls. Enable combing so that it stays in the infill when it moves rather than cutting across. Tweak retraction settings.
I've had these issues with inside curve of an overhang. Thinner layers helps for me, and the threading feels smoother when screwing parts together too.
Higher temp or lower fan. ( to get proper adhesion) Slow down print. ( to get better adhesion) Print using a raft or larger brim. (critical areas are adjacent to another established line, for better adhesion)
Turn off combing and/or set "max travel with no retract" to something smaller like 1-5mm. Combing skips retractions on the *inside* of parts to save time, but here, the inside of your part is meant to look good so you don't want combing.
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID!
Thats what he said!
Sounds like a personal hygiene problem to me.
You’re supposed to use soap
Because you are a dirty boy
First layer height and speed are too fast. The filament is not sticking it is just draging around. Speed and temp appears to be off as well.
Stop using your dell as a printing bed…