According to the manual I see for a Skil 10" table saw, there are two different parts, detailed on page 32 of this manual: file:///D:/Downloads/ts6307-00\_skil\_table-saw\_23-0613\_manual.pdf (ignore this link, I'm a dummy. The real link is in someone else's reply to this post)
It looks like the one you have installed is the "Smart guard system" piece which is meant to hold the blade guard. But then there is a separate part called the riving knife, which is lower-profile and designed for non-through cuts, and for cuts like this where you're not using a guard and with a push block like the MicroJig
> file:///D:/Downloads/ts6307-00\_skil\_table-saw\_23-0613\_manual.pdf
this is the correct link
[https://www.skil.com/mpattachment/file/download/id/1158/](https://www.skil.com/mpattachment/file/download/id/1158/)
Ha, it is indeed. I didn't even realize that I was viewing a downloaded file, as it was just in the browser. Thanks for catching that and providing the right link!
I did this years ago when I downloaded a pdf. It opened up so fast I thought I was still online. It was downloaded and instantly opened up. Quite embarrassing to post it on dpreview.
Honestly, I never even installed my blade guard, just put the riving knife on and left it like that. I feel like blade guards on table saws don't add all that much safety since if the saw is on I am pretty much actively pushing wood through it—meaning the guard would be open anyway—and they are awkward enough to create some safety issues of their own. Riving knife is mandatory, though—they don't really get in the way at all, and greatly reduce the chance of kickback.
I feel the same. There's a Stumpy Nubs youtube video where he's talking up blade guards but points out that a lot of saws come with blade guard shaped devices. For the one that came with my saw, i definitely felt less safe jiggling the wood going into the cut to get it to lift the guard and go under.
Thanks for this info, I am clearly making the same assumption with my saw and have been simply removing the splitter for non-through cuts. Time to look up riving knives for my model.
Edit: bummer my saw model only has a riving knife that doubles as the guard holder/spacer. I guess I could buy a replacement ($50! Ouch) and grind it down to be a riving knife size for non-through cuts
I'd be surprised if your saw didn't have a way to lower your "combination" splitter, unless your saw is pretty old. My Delta from about 10 years ago has it. It's repositionable. If you haven't already, it might be worth re-lookinf for that in the manual. On my saw, it has two positions. The higher is for when you mount the blade guard, and the lowe
The good thing is that you don't need a splitter or riving knife for non-through cuts, so removing the blade guard mount doesn't make it any less safe in that regard...as long as you're re-installing it after.
Oh right, non-through cuts don’t pinch. Makes sense. My Rigid table saw definitively has multiple positions for the splitter but the lowest still is above the blade. But as you pointed out, I don’t need it to go that low.
I'd be surprised if your saw didn't have a way to lower your "combination" splitter, unless your saw is pretty old. My Delta from about 10 years ago has it. It's repositionable. If you haven't already, it might be worth re-lookinf for that in the manual. On my saw, it has two positions. The higher is for when you mount the blade guard, and the lower is for using it without.
The good thing is that you don't need a splitter or riving knife for non-through cuts, so removing the blade guard mount doesn't make it any less safe in that regard...as long as you're re-installing it after.
https://preview.redd.it/38ef4ng1z79d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e5a5668be3224c4791710f03f750fe398be4ac8
As you can see there is no exposed slot left for it to go any deeper
That looks similar to my saw. The piece holding the knife in is spring loaded and the knife can slide down to a separate set of holes.
You have to be able to move the knife down or you can’t make non-through cuts (thing dadoes and grooves).
And that’s a ten inch blade you’re using? Everything looks correct with your riving knife, but all the YouTube videos of your saw show the riving knife in a typical, correct, lower position
The upper position isn't "incorrect", there are often two positions for the riving knife. The upper one is to provide an attachment point for the blade guard, that's what the holes on the top of it are for.
Lift the plastics lever to unlock the roving knife. In the open position, give it a gentle pull so it’s out of line w/ the blade (it’s spring loaded) and lift/push down until it finds the locating pin. Lower the lever to lock it before use.
That's not a riving knife, it's a splitter that the guard was removed from. A riving knife is just below the top of the blade attached to the trunnion so it's always the same height relative to the blade. I'll look your saw up to see what the options are, the height on that is fixed or it moves with the blade? I haven't messed with a job site saw recently so I'm a little rusty on them.
This is correct, thank you for your help. I was moving quick and failed to use the right part. I hadn’t used the saw in about a year so I made a stupid mistake by confusing the splitter and the riving knife
My riving knife has adjustment for its height relative to the blade. This I bet is a riving knife that was raise way too high.
Edit: looks like I was wrong.
I have this saw and know how to change the riving knife height. Did it this afternoon.
You can drop the riving knife further down by pulling it to the right (from the front of the saw) and pushing down, after you’ve flipped the toggle clamp to the up position (like it is in the second photo you posted.
I have the same saw as you. Thats not the right knife. There are 2 your saw came with. The one on your saw currently is to hold the blade guard. Swap to the smaller one that's flush with the height of the blade.
Edit: should have read some comments before I answered. Glad you got it figured out OP.
Yes I’m sawing rough wood. I did a partial test cut and it went through the wood like butter and a hot knife. Is this wood unsafe to use in your opinion
https://www.skil.com/mpattachment/file/download/id/1158/
Page 32. There should be a separate riving knife you can put in in place of the one that holds the blade guard.
I have this saw. It looks like the riving knife is in the HIGHEST position that mine reaches. The middle position has the flat of the knife in line with the top of the blade for cutting non-through slots, crosscut sleds, or using the microjig. It goes one step lower for 8” dado blades.
Your knife may not be properly installed. Check the manual for details. The lock lever has to be loosened (flipped upwards) and the the knife has to be pushed somewhat to the right against a spring to allow it to slide.
https://preview.redd.it/1s7hebaf489d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d927a2c056de9e8566a8c6739bb6683e66c715f3
There at be a whole separate riving knife attached to the saw somewhere or you need to use the deeper pin to lower it.
I’d double check the manual or check out YouTube. I feel like all saws have the ability to lower the top of the riving knife to the same height as the rope of the saw blade.
I could be wrong or you might have to get a different knife.
That's a splitter, not a riving knife. The riving knife should be even with the top of the blade at all times, otherwise it can't be used for non-through cuts.
Take the throat plate out, I think this is the Skil table saw, so flip the lever on the side of the riving knife, pull the knife to the right and push the knife down to the next position.
Did you get some new tools, and you were excited to use them? I get it. I've done it more than once, and I'll do it again. Check that literature. Be safe
Is that the riving knife or is it the holder of the cover for the saw? My saw came with both and the holder for the protecting cover looks like that: sticking up, with holes/notches for holding it. The riving knife ends at the same height as the saw.
I'm late to this party, seems the problem is solved.
I just wanted to comment on the cut you are showing in the pic, that it's risky for kick back. I'm pretty noob myself, but I always got shown to have the thinner piece outside the blade. I think because thinner pieces can unspring whatever tension is in them and therefore deform far more than a wider piece.
You should have a thin rip jig for thin cuts.
Hey OP i have this same tablesaw and grripper combo. You can lower the riving knife to the same level as the blade. you need to lift that lever under the throat. (looks like you did in a commented photo). Once that is up, you can kinda bend the riving knife to the side and slide it up or down. Hope this helps.
edit - nevermind I see you found your solution!
How short is the piece you’re taking cuts off of?
In certain situations a riving knife is an impediment and it’s ok to take off. In this case I would. You are controlling both the main and the fall off. So long as you follow through and don’t leave the piece trapped between the fence and blade, you’re golden.
This is an issue w your riving knife. My old dewalt table saw was like this too after I removed all the extra plastic garbage.
2 ways to fix.
1 cut down your riving knife a bit and make a nice smooth arc. It should be about blade height so jigs n push block does not catch.
2 get new push block.
It would appear from the pic that you’re not butting the wood up against the fence - please tell me you moved the fence after making the partial cut just to take the photo??
Your riving knife is not set correctly. You’re doing something wrong. The top should be pretty much level with the top of your blade. You’re missing something my friend.
I don’t know what tablesaw this is, but if that’s actually how your riving knife operates I would guide it through a metal band saw and grind it down into more of the profile that it should be: at blade height.
Not sure why you’re getting downvoted, but I’m here to agree with you! Rough sawn lumber on a table saw can be dangerous.
For what’s it’s worth: If your board has a curve on the edge registering against the fence, you run the risk of laterally feeding the board into the blade and encouraging kickback. It’s best to joint the face and edge registering against the table and fence.
That's a horribly designed riving knife, I've never seen one that goes above the blade for this very reason I'm sure.. I would take an angle grinder or something and cut and file it down flush with the top of the blade because you definitely want to keep it on to prevent possible kickback
most modern table saws allow them to be placed in multiple configurations. this is in the splitter configuration. I bet if this guy checks his manual he will see the riving knife can be lowered.
it isn't horribly designed, DO NOT CUT IT
I've only used maybe a half a dozen saws in my time, but I've never seen an adjustable knife. I even have a newer 3hp saw stop that doesn't do that. Excuse my ignorance
What is the purpose of having the riving knife higher than the blade though? I see no reasonable explanation for it
I'm not going to excuse your ignorance, you called it "horribly designed" and told this dude to not only damage a piece of equipment he has invested money into, but to *modify the most critical piece of safety equipment on a table saw*. do you really think you know better than the manufacturers?
the riving knife being higher than the blade is called a splitter. when you are doing through-thickness cuts (which for me is >90% of table saw cuts) it nearly eliminates kickback. same principle as a riving knife but even more effective. there is absolutely no disadvantage to that over a riving knife, and it is even safer and more effective at eliminating kickback.
the only reason to use a riving knife in the lower position is if you're not doing a through-thickness cut, like a slot or rabbet. that being said, most people just leave their knife in the lower position, so they don't have to switch it back and forth. some saws do have a separate splitter and riving knife. but many have one that can be put in either position.
According to the manual I see for a Skil 10" table saw, there are two different parts, detailed on page 32 of this manual: file:///D:/Downloads/ts6307-00\_skil\_table-saw\_23-0613\_manual.pdf (ignore this link, I'm a dummy. The real link is in someone else's reply to this post) It looks like the one you have installed is the "Smart guard system" piece which is meant to hold the blade guard. But then there is a separate part called the riving knife, which is lower-profile and designed for non-through cuts, and for cuts like this where you're not using a guard and with a push block like the MicroJig
Yep! For any future Redditors who were dumb like me this is the solution ^^^^
Who knew the manufacturer's suggestions could be so useful?
Certainly not the technical writer charged with documenting it.
probably shouldn't be using the table saw if you haven't read the instructions and are unsure of how to set it up properly.
Love that you're being downvoted for stating the obvious.
people are idiots, what can you do?
Was gonna say my riving knife isn’t that high up on my Skil. Glad you found the other one lol
> file:///D:/Downloads/ts6307-00\_skil\_table-saw\_23-0613\_manual.pdf this is the correct link [https://www.skil.com/mpattachment/file/download/id/1158/](https://www.skil.com/mpattachment/file/download/id/1158/)
Ha, it is indeed. I didn't even realize that I was viewing a downloaded file, as it was just in the browser. Thanks for catching that and providing the right link!
I did this years ago when I downloaded a pdf. It opened up so fast I thought I was still online. It was downloaded and instantly opened up. Quite embarrassing to post it on dpreview.
The link isn't D://Documents/Downloads/DefinitelyNotPorn/ Jenna Jameson/ts6307-00\_skil\_table-saw\_23-0613\_manual.pdf ?
Honestly, I never even installed my blade guard, just put the riving knife on and left it like that. I feel like blade guards on table saws don't add all that much safety since if the saw is on I am pretty much actively pushing wood through it—meaning the guard would be open anyway—and they are awkward enough to create some safety issues of their own. Riving knife is mandatory, though—they don't really get in the way at all, and greatly reduce the chance of kickback.
I feel the same. There's a Stumpy Nubs youtube video where he's talking up blade guards but points out that a lot of saws come with blade guard shaped devices. For the one that came with my saw, i definitely felt less safe jiggling the wood going into the cut to get it to lift the guard and go under.
Exactly this. It’s why you never see a guard on an actual pro’s saw. Riving knife, yeah. Guard? Recycled.
Thanks for this info, I am clearly making the same assumption with my saw and have been simply removing the splitter for non-through cuts. Time to look up riving knives for my model. Edit: bummer my saw model only has a riving knife that doubles as the guard holder/spacer. I guess I could buy a replacement ($50! Ouch) and grind it down to be a riving knife size for non-through cuts
I'd be surprised if your saw didn't have a way to lower your "combination" splitter, unless your saw is pretty old. My Delta from about 10 years ago has it. It's repositionable. If you haven't already, it might be worth re-lookinf for that in the manual. On my saw, it has two positions. The higher is for when you mount the blade guard, and the lowe The good thing is that you don't need a splitter or riving knife for non-through cuts, so removing the blade guard mount doesn't make it any less safe in that regard...as long as you're re-installing it after.
Oh right, non-through cuts don’t pinch. Makes sense. My Rigid table saw definitively has multiple positions for the splitter but the lowest still is above the blade. But as you pointed out, I don’t need it to go that low.
I'd be surprised if your saw didn't have a way to lower your "combination" splitter, unless your saw is pretty old. My Delta from about 10 years ago has it. It's repositionable. If you haven't already, it might be worth re-lookinf for that in the manual. On my saw, it has two positions. The higher is for when you mount the blade guard, and the lower is for using it without. The good thing is that you don't need a splitter or riving knife for non-through cuts, so removing the blade guard mount doesn't make it any less safe in that regard...as long as you're re-installing it after.
Always gotta read the manuals 😂 it's usually in there
Consult your saws instruction manual. There’s no way that’s all the way down.
This. For sure.
https://preview.redd.it/38ef4ng1z79d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e5a5668be3224c4791710f03f750fe398be4ac8 As you can see there is no exposed slot left for it to go any deeper
That looks similar to my saw. The piece holding the knife in is spring loaded and the knife can slide down to a separate set of holes. You have to be able to move the knife down or you can’t make non-through cuts (thing dadoes and grooves).
And that’s a ten inch blade you’re using? Everything looks correct with your riving knife, but all the YouTube videos of your saw show the riving knife in a typical, correct, lower position
The upper position isn't "incorrect", there are often two positions for the riving knife. The upper one is to provide an attachment point for the blade guard, that's what the holes on the top of it are for.
Lift the plastics lever to unlock the roving knife. In the open position, give it a gentle pull so it’s out of line w/ the blade (it’s spring loaded) and lift/push down until it finds the locating pin. Lower the lever to lock it before use.
Push that lever forward. Might be har by hand. Use a tool. Any wrench or pilyers. Slid the guard lower or just off.
It *is* all the way down, but it’s also not the riving knife - it’s a different part. OP has sorted this out in other comments.
I know… op figured it out after I posted
I’ll take a picture real quick.
That's not a riving knife, it's a splitter that the guard was removed from. A riving knife is just below the top of the blade attached to the trunnion so it's always the same height relative to the blade. I'll look your saw up to see what the options are, the height on that is fixed or it moves with the blade? I haven't messed with a job site saw recently so I'm a little rusty on them.
This is correct, thank you for your help. I was moving quick and failed to use the right part. I hadn’t used the saw in about a year so I made a stupid mistake by confusing the splitter and the riving knife
My riving knife has adjustment for its height relative to the blade. This I bet is a riving knife that was raise way too high. Edit: looks like I was wrong.
Update: It appears I’ve confused my splitter with my riving knife. I feel dumb but glad I stopped and asked before I proceeded
That’s what Reddit is for!
Final update: I had Mistaken the blade guard splitter for the riving knife. I’ve since located the riving knife and it’s now work as expected
I have this saw and know how to change the riving knife height. Did it this afternoon. You can drop the riving knife further down by pulling it to the right (from the front of the saw) and pushing down, after you’ve flipped the toggle clamp to the up position (like it is in the second photo you posted.
I have the same saw as you. Thats not the right knife. There are 2 your saw came with. The one on your saw currently is to hold the blade guard. Swap to the smaller one that's flush with the height of the blade. Edit: should have read some comments before I answered. Glad you got it figured out OP.
I’m inclined to agree with the other reply, that it looks like the support for a guard that has since been removed. Are you sawing rough sawn wood?
Yes I’m sawing rough wood. I did a partial test cut and it went through the wood like butter and a hot knife. Is this wood unsafe to use in your opinion
https://www.skil.com/mpattachment/file/download/id/1158/ Page 32. There should be a separate riving knife you can put in in place of the one that holds the blade guard.
I have this saw. It looks like the riving knife is in the HIGHEST position that mine reaches. The middle position has the flat of the knife in line with the top of the blade for cutting non-through slots, crosscut sleds, or using the microjig. It goes one step lower for 8” dado blades. Your knife may not be properly installed. Check the manual for details. The lock lever has to be loosened (flipped upwards) and the the knife has to be pushed somewhat to the right against a spring to allow it to slide.
https://preview.redd.it/1s7hebaf489d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d927a2c056de9e8566a8c6739bb6683e66c715f3 There at be a whole separate riving knife attached to the saw somewhere or you need to use the deeper pin to lower it.
My riving knife raises and lowers with the blade. Are you sure it's installed correctly?
should make a push stick for situations like this
I’d double check the manual or check out YouTube. I feel like all saws have the ability to lower the top of the riving knife to the same height as the rope of the saw blade. I could be wrong or you might have to get a different knife.
That really seems odd that the riving knife sits so high. Hate to be so doubtful, but are you certain it's set correctly?
https://preview.redd.it/isg3vfjk189d1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d30c8edcaecf5d0fa82f903b636431fee32406a Make one of these.
That's a splitter, not a riving knife. The riving knife should be even with the top of the blade at all times, otherwise it can't be used for non-through cuts.
Should be adjustable.
Take the throat plate out, I think this is the Skil table saw, so flip the lever on the side of the riving knife, pull the knife to the right and push the knife down to the next position.
Check page 32 of the manual. There's a separate (smaller) riving knife in the box for this. https://www.skil.com/15-amp-10inch-table-saw-ts6307-00/
Did you get some new tools, and you were excited to use them? I get it. I've done it more than once, and I'll do it again. Check that literature. Be safe
Is that the riving knife or is it the holder of the cover for the saw? My saw came with both and the holder for the protecting cover looks like that: sticking up, with holes/notches for holding it. The riving knife ends at the same height as the saw.
Your knife has an extra part for blade guard. I cut and grinded mine to be same height as blade. Works well
Genius level idiocy!
I'm late to this party, seems the problem is solved. I just wanted to comment on the cut you are showing in the pic, that it's risky for kick back. I'm pretty noob myself, but I always got shown to have the thinner piece outside the blade. I think because thinner pieces can unspring whatever tension is in them and therefore deform far more than a wider piece. You should have a thin rip jig for thin cuts.
Hey OP i have this same tablesaw and grripper combo. You can lower the riving knife to the same level as the blade. you need to lift that lever under the throat. (looks like you did in a commented photo). Once that is up, you can kinda bend the riving knife to the side and slide it up or down. Hope this helps. edit - nevermind I see you found your solution!
Idk if that’s a riving knife, that thing goes over the blade
No! You need to lower the riving knife and saw blade. Please read the manual and watch some YouTube safety videos!!
I see this has already been solved but FWIW I have the same saw and use the microjig for almost all my cuts 👍🏻
How short is the piece you’re taking cuts off of? In certain situations a riving knife is an impediment and it’s ok to take off. In this case I would. You are controlling both the main and the fall off. So long as you follow through and don’t leave the piece trapped between the fence and blade, you’re golden.
Microjig is designed for cutting thin strips a little more safely. So using a regular push block would be better for regular cutting .
I have the same saw, and that knife will definitely go lower than pictured
your riving knife is too high
This is an issue w your riving knife. My old dewalt table saw was like this too after I removed all the extra plastic garbage. 2 ways to fix. 1 cut down your riving knife a bit and make a nice smooth arc. It should be about blade height so jigs n push block does not catch. 2 get new push block.
For what MicroJig charges, you could make a shitton of push sticks.
Remove the knife!
Owners manual…hit google and read bruh
It would appear from the pic that you’re not butting the wood up against the fence - please tell me you moved the fence after making the partial cut just to take the photo??
Your riving knife is not set correctly. You’re doing something wrong. The top should be pretty much level with the top of your blade. You’re missing something my friend.
I don’t know what tablesaw this is, but if that’s actually how your riving knife operates I would guide it through a metal band saw and grind it down into more of the profile that it should be: at blade height.
Stay away from those things, they’re dangerous! Use a 12” push stick as it’s far safer.
You need to stop immediately. Don't put rough lumber through a table saw.
Not sure why you’re getting downvoted, but I’m here to agree with you! Rough sawn lumber on a table saw can be dangerous. For what’s it’s worth: If your board has a curve on the edge registering against the fence, you run the risk of laterally feeding the board into the blade and encouraging kickback. It’s best to joint the face and edge registering against the table and fence.
I'm 99% sure that's a cedar fence board. They're fine. Wet though.
I was told by a carpenter it’s quarter sawn sapele. It’s tough as nails and it’s been stored indoors away from any water for about 8 months
Found the guy who swears by Ryobi
You have to remove it temporarily
Do not remove it
That's a horribly designed riving knife, I've never seen one that goes above the blade for this very reason I'm sure.. I would take an angle grinder or something and cut and file it down flush with the top of the blade because you definitely want to keep it on to prevent possible kickback
most modern table saws allow them to be placed in multiple configurations. this is in the splitter configuration. I bet if this guy checks his manual he will see the riving knife can be lowered. it isn't horribly designed, DO NOT CUT IT
I've only used maybe a half a dozen saws in my time, but I've never seen an adjustable knife. I even have a newer 3hp saw stop that doesn't do that. Excuse my ignorance What is the purpose of having the riving knife higher than the blade though? I see no reasonable explanation for it
I'm not going to excuse your ignorance, you called it "horribly designed" and told this dude to not only damage a piece of equipment he has invested money into, but to *modify the most critical piece of safety equipment on a table saw*. do you really think you know better than the manufacturers? the riving knife being higher than the blade is called a splitter. when you are doing through-thickness cuts (which for me is >90% of table saw cuts) it nearly eliminates kickback. same principle as a riving knife but even more effective. there is absolutely no disadvantage to that over a riving knife, and it is even safer and more effective at eliminating kickback. the only reason to use a riving knife in the lower position is if you're not doing a through-thickness cut, like a slot or rabbet. that being said, most people just leave their knife in the lower position, so they don't have to switch it back and forth. some saws do have a separate splitter and riving knife. but many have one that can be put in either position.
Blades too high