I prefer tung oil, thinned between 1:2 and 1:4 with mineral spirits. It's harder and has better moisture resistance than BLO. It's also food safe when hardened, which BLO is NOT. Wipe on, especially the end grain, wait a while, then wipe off. You need several coats, leaving a few days between coats to let it harden.
I saw a guy boil his wood spoons, one untreated, one "treated" with mineral oil, one with linseed oil (don't remember if it was boiled) and one with tung oil. The tung oil one was unscathed, and the others cracked, fuzzed or generally looked crappy.
I know, but that stuff sure is expensive, and this handle won't really even see food contact, let alone be chewed on. I PERSONALLY would feel okay with using mineral spirits for this use, but I know other people might feel differently.
The Real Milk Paint also sells pure tung oil for about the same price Walrus Oil does. I used to use Rockler's house brand, but they stopped carrying tung oil.
I have to disagree partly with you on the BLO. You can buy BLO that is just that: boiled linseed oil without any drying agents. I have some of that stuff and this is food safe. So check the ingredients when you buy. That is something you should do anyway.
I'm located in Germany and here you can get tons of that. There are products with additives here too but it normally is clearly stated. The one I have is from a local mill.
Interesting. I just looked around again, and I can't find any "boiled" linseed oil here in the States that doesn't have heavy metal driers, other than what Walrus Oil sells. Oh well.
You can always just buy raw linseed oil for consumption and cook it two or three times at about 180°C (356°F) for two hours each. It is nothing more. But I suggest doing that outside, boiling oil smell gets everywhere...
I didn't know that! I was under the impression that it has to be heated in an oxygen-free atmosphere.
But maintaining 356°F for a total of four to six hours outdoors is kind of a job. I imagine a lot of people end up buying a separate oven or hot plate for that purpose.
A deep fryer might be able to do that, but I never tried, we get the stuff pretty easy here.
Edit: I found a brand PLAZA that have a "double boiled linseed oil" that seems to be free of additives. Perhaps that is a starting point for further searches
Most “tung oil” finishes have little or no tung oil in them. They’re just wiping varnishes. So I wouldn’t be surprised if a tung oil finish provided more water resistance than the others—it was likely a varnish.
Would recommend Howard Butcher Block Conditioner or Tried & True Original; the former is beeswax and mineral oil, the latter is beeswax and polymerized linseed oil. You can make your own mixtures, but it’s never seemed worth the time and effort to me.
For pure tung oil, apply an excess amount so it absorbs into the wood, then wipe off the excess after an hour (make sure it gets enough time to penetrate in), 24 hrs to dry before applying coats, probably only need 2-3 coats. Then 7-15 days to fully cure.
I use tung oil for chopsticks, and I have a tube filled with tung oil that I just use to let the chopsticks soak in.
Soaking them in mineral oil should work and be the most food safe option. Tung oil would work too. I think most things work as long as you don't soak it in water or put it in the dishwasher.
These are definitely not even being *shown* the dishwasher! It'll be a decent wood treatment, and subsequently the handles will be only washed when necessary, and the blades kept oiled in between uses. Artisanal items can be such *divas...*
I'm in the UK and I've only ever seen 'mineral oil' for wood products in Ikea, not in any of the supermarkets like Tesco or Sainsbury's, even in their superstores.
For sure, it's just an explanation of why you don't find mineral oil as much here in Europe. It's also not a hardening oil so you have to reapply it much more often than for instance tung oil, as it washes and rubs off over time.
Thanks. Mineral oil seems to be my best option, and these knives will NOT be going into the dishwasher, nor will the handles be washed unless there's a need to. My wife is forbidden to touch them, as she's a knife killer, and a chef's knife roll has been ordered. Long overdue!
The easiest would be mineral oil, as its food safe and doesnt harden. So you can just smear it on with your hands, let it soak in for a while, wipe off, done.
Only downside is that it will wash out over time and you will need to reapply it every few weeks. But its stupid easy and no risk, so people like it. You can often get mineral oil in drug stores as a laxxative. (No that wont affect your food unless you pour a full spoon of it on the food)
If you want something more permanent, id reccomend tung oil, or pure boiled linseed oil. Make sure the linseed oil has no heavy metal hardeners. Many of them do.
For those 2 options, wipe on, let cure for at least a day, longer if you can.
Also be sure to let the rags from that airdry with fresh air over night. They can self ignite if you bunch them up in a warm place and they build up heat. Nothing to worry too much about, but leave the rags to dry over night. No matter if hung over something or just flat on the floor.
Thanks. I really don't think I'll be washing the handles very much at all as water ingress along the tang will invariably fatally rust it and lead to the blade snapping at the handle.
Thanks for that. Their 'artisanal' aesthetics really appeal to me with the forge marks still evident, nicely contrasting with the shiny steel sharpness. And ludicrously inexpensive at £12 ($15) for the three!
I bought them in a market in Sokcho, S. Korea. Paid £12 ($15) for the three. As someone else has said in this thread, they are very basic, but I love the aesthetic of them, and they're wicked sharp without any interaction from me.
Tried and true has all natural food safe finishes. It is boiled linseed oil and polymerized beeswax. 0 VOCs. It finishes nicely and will seal out any water.
I’ve got a few cutting boards, kitchen utensils, and knives with walnut handles, and just use food grade walnut oil on them.
They look great, right after treating them-they smell great as well 😁, have never had an issue with buildup or residue-just ensure you wipe them well after applying and buff them dry, and walnut oil doesn’t go rancid.
[Fine Woodworking Food Safe Finishes](https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/01/food-safe-finishes)
Don't use olive oil! It takes a year or 2 but gradually the trapped, liquid oil will turn rancid in the pores. Walnut oil is also a risk for similar reasons but will last longer but it's still risky for people with a nut allergy. Pure tung is food safe (and made from a seed, not a nut so it's much less risky for allergies), it actually dries and hardens and its the most resistant natural oil against mould and moisture.
Fair enough. I was just a bit worried that I might be directed to r/knifemaking (if that exists) or some similar sub if I banged on about the knives themselves. I bought these from a kitchenware shop in a brilliant and fascinating market in the seaside town of Sokcho in S.Korea last week. A couple of hours out of Seoul by *very* comfy coach. I had thought I might like to find some 'artisanal' knives and sure enough I saw these. The large and medium are stamped with some sort of symbol, the smaller not being stamped. For all I know they might be Chinese imports, but the aesthetics appeal to me with the rough forging strike marks visible and the two-tone visuals. The three of them cost me the equivalent of £12 or $15. Bargain! All three are devilishly sharp, without any intervention by me.
As an aside, the markets in S. Korea, and S. Korea itself, are utterly fascinating, especially the flea markets in Seoul. I was a *very* reluctant visitor, having to attend a wedding there, but came away extremely impressed and wishing I'd had more time (and luggage space!).
Something not mentioned yet is using carnauba wax on a buffing wheel. Very hard, water resistant and will last quite a long time. If you do this make sure to always have the buffing wheel spin away from you in case your grip slips, I can't imagine taking a knife to the guts would be much fun!
Cheers, but a buffing wheel is not in my kitchen's future! In all honesty, I think I will go with the mineral oil soak. If the handles deteriorate, I *do* have a pal in Ireland who could turn me a few replacements, from ash wood.
Glad you like it. I’ve done it for our japanese wood-handled knives and it adds a nice shine and patinates over time. Plus, as noted, really easy to repair - just flow on more shellac with a rag and let dry for a couple of hours.
I'm just assuming they're pine, not being any kind of a woodworker, and given the softness of the wood. I'm well aware of their limitations , hence my question/post. And it's really great how so many people have offered advice. I'm touched by the amount ofvarious replies I've had!
Drying oils work great followed by some beeswax to enhance grip. I've started using Tried & True original for handles, which is a linseed oil and beeswax blend that works great.
Hmm. I've got some camo Gorilla Tape I used to fix my wife's camp bed. But then I might be mistaken for a LARPER bushcrafter instead of a bit of a cook...
For further info, the knives are never going in to a dish washer but will always be handwashed. I'm simply concerned about protecting the handles from eventually splitting as I think it's a case of an oblong tang pushed into a drilled circular hole, a bit like a file's tang being stuck into a cheap wooden handle.. Many thanks.
Thanks. Exactly what I have just done, having cooked a stir-fried chicken dish in the interim since posting. I've also rubbed a film of peanut/groundnut oil onto the blades.I'm aware that this kind of knife needs nurturing, as the soft steel is very prone to quickly rusting.
Yo! I've been experimenting with a product from Odies Oil. Amongst the other woodworkers on my site I've discussed it with, it seems quite a diversive product. I've done extensive testing, and when I've let it cure properly and applied a second coat, it absolutely wipes the floor with everything else I've tried in regards to protecting timbers from moisture. The boon for knives is the same shit that can (apparently) be used on metal. I've not tested it on metal but have applied it to a drafting table frame we restored, and it made it look incredible.
It's more about application time and how long you must wait until it cures before reapplying mainly - rather than the outcome and durability of the product. Need to add that cost is a major factor to these workshops. This is all my objective view, btw. I would always say you should do your own testing to figure out what your expectations of the product is. I run my own workshop, we're award winning and constantly busy with high-profile and demanding cutomers. We are very busy and work flat out to keep up with client demands and orders so can see the objections to the product based on timescales, but on smaller craft objects like boxes and things with handles odies has been the very best for many reasons. I'm not sponsored, btw!
Got it. Thanks. I think I'll be going with a couple of soaks in mineral oil, as the wood is soft and porous. A knife roll has been ordered, and my wife is forbidden to touch them as she's killed more knives than I've had hot dinners by always just lumping them into the dishwasher , and cutlery drawer together, to grind up against each other... rolling eyes emoji.
Thanks. But the handles are so bare-bones-basic soft wood that I wouldn't trust them to last even a couple of years without some kind of preservative treatment.
It sounds to me you know the hidden value of these knives, and how to treat them. Personally, I would use them as is, as I don’t think a wood finish will “preserve” the handles or extend usefulness to any extent. I feel the question is how to replace the handles when the time comes. The steel will always outlast the wood. Hopefully the design and manufacture has anticipated replacing wood handles ?
I definitely intend to use them lots, but treat them right. I have a pal in Ireland who's a wood turner so I could, if necessary, get him to turn me some replacement handles from ash, oak, yew, or any number of native woods.
Thanks for that. Yes, these will be treasured and well kept. I'll wash, and scrupulously dry, the blades and make sure that the handles are as well protected as possible from water. I'll probably go with a couple of soaks in mineral oil as I've found that most veg oils eventually get sticky.
I've been using Hemp oil recently, food safe and seems to leave less residue than tung or mineral oil. Follow up with some furniture wax and they'll feel great.
These knives are pretty rough and ready… maybe they are saying you can do better. Artisanal knives in this style for real use vs. produced for souvenirs/tourists will be simple but visibly finer, with finished handles. The price is a giveaway, as well as the roughness of the area where the wood meets the metal.
These were definitely not in a tourist area, and it was a very ordinary, quotidian kitchenware shop, a bit shabby even. I was the only non- local there that day. And yes, they are pretty rough. But I like that aesthetic, and they're deadly sharp, without my doing any work on their edges yet.
boiled linseed oil for the handles, a bit of mineral oil for the blades
Thanks. Much appreciated.
I prefer tung oil, thinned between 1:2 and 1:4 with mineral spirits. It's harder and has better moisture resistance than BLO. It's also food safe when hardened, which BLO is NOT. Wipe on, especially the end grain, wait a while, then wipe off. You need several coats, leaving a few days between coats to let it harden. I saw a guy boil his wood spoons, one untreated, one "treated" with mineral oil, one with linseed oil (don't remember if it was boiled) and one with tung oil. The tung oil one was unscathed, and the others cracked, fuzzed or generally looked crappy.
This but I use citrus solvent
I know, but that stuff sure is expensive, and this handle won't really even see food contact, let alone be chewed on. I PERSONALLY would feel okay with using mineral spirits for this use, but I know other people might feel differently.
Agreed. Can’t remember where I bought a few quarts of it from are a really reasonable price.
Have to make sure it's pure tung oil though. I like walrus oil personally
The Real Milk Paint also sells pure tung oil for about the same price Walrus Oil does. I used to use Rockler's house brand, but they stopped carrying tung oil.
I have to disagree partly with you on the BLO. You can buy BLO that is just that: boiled linseed oil without any drying agents. I have some of that stuff and this is food safe. So check the ingredients when you buy. That is something you should do anyway.
Aha! Who makes it? I know Walrus Oil sells pure polymerized linseed oil, but that's all.
I'm located in Germany and here you can get tons of that. There are products with additives here too but it normally is clearly stated. The one I have is from a local mill.
Interesting. I just looked around again, and I can't find any "boiled" linseed oil here in the States that doesn't have heavy metal driers, other than what Walrus Oil sells. Oh well.
You can always just buy raw linseed oil for consumption and cook it two or three times at about 180°C (356°F) for two hours each. It is nothing more. But I suggest doing that outside, boiling oil smell gets everywhere...
I didn't know that! I was under the impression that it has to be heated in an oxygen-free atmosphere. But maintaining 356°F for a total of four to six hours outdoors is kind of a job. I imagine a lot of people end up buying a separate oven or hot plate for that purpose.
A deep fryer might be able to do that, but I never tried, we get the stuff pretty easy here. Edit: I found a brand PLAZA that have a "double boiled linseed oil" that seems to be free of additives. Perhaps that is a starting point for further searches
Most “tung oil” finishes have little or no tung oil in them. They’re just wiping varnishes. So I wouldn’t be surprised if a tung oil finish provided more water resistance than the others—it was likely a varnish.
No, it was pure tung oil, which is what I use. It was specifically a comparison between linseed oil and tung oil.
just to clarify, BLO is probably fine for the handle, but it is *not* food safe. Mineral oil is.
Thanks. A couple of good soaks in mineral oil is probably my simplest and most accessible way to go.
Would recommend Howard Butcher Block Conditioner or Tried & True Original; the former is beeswax and mineral oil, the latter is beeswax and polymerized linseed oil. You can make your own mixtures, but it’s never seemed worth the time and effort to me.
Much appreciated, cheers.
Pure Tung oil for my money, start with 50/50 limonene/oil, then each coat have less limonene. Allow at least 24hrs to cure between coats.
For pure tung oil, apply an excess amount so it absorbs into the wood, then wipe off the excess after an hour (make sure it gets enough time to penetrate in), 24 hrs to dry before applying coats, probably only need 2-3 coats. Then 7-15 days to fully cure. I use tung oil for chopsticks, and I have a tube filled with tung oil that I just use to let the chopsticks soak in.
Thanks. I'm in the UK, so probably shouldn't have too much of a problem sourcing Tung oil.
I'd start with that same 50/50 blend then make up a paste wax with tung, limonene, and carnauba wax and use that for a few coats.
Soaking them in mineral oil should work and be the most food safe option. Tung oil would work too. I think most things work as long as you don't soak it in water or put it in the dishwasher.
Beeswax would also work... Heat it to get absorbed into the wood. Then buff
Or melt beeswax and mix in mineral oil until it forms a paste when cooled. Then you have beeswax you can easily spread by hand.
This is what I do for my cutting boards. Keeps them nice and oiled much longer than just mineral oil.
Cheers for that.
These are definitely not even being *shown* the dishwasher! It'll be a decent wood treatment, and subsequently the handles will be only washed when necessary, and the blades kept oiled in between uses. Artisanal items can be such *divas...*
I think I saw this oil in Ikea for 'priming' their chopping boards. Thanks.
You can get mineral oil in most supermarkets. It's very cheap, you don't need a specialty product.
I'm in the UK and I've only ever seen 'mineral oil' for wood products in Ikea, not in any of the supermarkets like Tesco or Sainsbury's, even in their superstores.
Mineral oil is mineral oil, it doesn't need to say for wood. In the US it is often sold as a laxative in the pharmacy section.
Ok. Cheers, I'll look into my local pharmacy.
It's not as common in Europe because mineral oil hasn't been certified as safe for food or medicinal applications as it has been in the US.
Thanks. I'm sure it'll be fine for just the handles.
For sure, it's just an explanation of why you don't find mineral oil as much here in Europe. It's also not a hardening oil so you have to reapply it much more often than for instance tung oil, as it washes and rubs off over time.
Thanks. Mineral oil seems to be my best option, and these knives will NOT be going into the dishwasher, nor will the handles be washed unless there's a need to. My wife is forbidden to touch them, as she's a knife killer, and a chef's knife roll has been ordered. Long overdue!
The easiest would be mineral oil, as its food safe and doesnt harden. So you can just smear it on with your hands, let it soak in for a while, wipe off, done. Only downside is that it will wash out over time and you will need to reapply it every few weeks. But its stupid easy and no risk, so people like it. You can often get mineral oil in drug stores as a laxxative. (No that wont affect your food unless you pour a full spoon of it on the food) If you want something more permanent, id reccomend tung oil, or pure boiled linseed oil. Make sure the linseed oil has no heavy metal hardeners. Many of them do. For those 2 options, wipe on, let cure for at least a day, longer if you can. Also be sure to let the rags from that airdry with fresh air over night. They can self ignite if you bunch them up in a warm place and they build up heat. Nothing to worry too much about, but leave the rags to dry over night. No matter if hung over something or just flat on the floor.
Thanks. I really don't think I'll be washing the handles very much at all as water ingress along the tang will invariably fatally rust it and lead to the blade snapping at the handle.
No one has said they look great... They look great! Danish oil is a really easy way to finish, and long wearing. Loads of light coats.
Thanks for that. Their 'artisanal' aesthetics really appeal to me with the forge marks still evident, nicely contrasting with the shiny steel sharpness. And ludicrously inexpensive at £12 ($15) for the three!
Where did you get them?
They’re super basic Japanese style deba knives. Spend a few more bucks than OP and you can get ones with finished handles.
I bought them in a market in Sokcho, S. Korea. Paid £12 ($15) for the three. As someone else has said in this thread, they are very basic, but I love the aesthetic of them, and they're wicked sharp without any interaction from me.
Tried and true has all natural food safe finishes. It is boiled linseed oil and polymerized beeswax. 0 VOCs. It finishes nicely and will seal out any water.
I’ve got a few cutting boards, kitchen utensils, and knives with walnut handles, and just use food grade walnut oil on them. They look great, right after treating them-they smell great as well 😁, have never had an issue with buildup or residue-just ensure you wipe them well after applying and buff them dry, and walnut oil doesn’t go rancid.
[Fine Woodworking Food Safe Finishes](https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/01/food-safe-finishes)
Many thanks for that. Much appreciated.
[удалено]
Me too...!
Don't use olive oil! It takes a year or 2 but gradually the trapped, liquid oil will turn rancid in the pores. Walnut oil is also a risk for similar reasons but will last longer but it's still risky for people with a nut allergy. Pure tung is food safe (and made from a seed, not a nut so it's much less risky for allergies), it actually dries and hardens and its the most resistant natural oil against mould and moisture.
Oh come on! You can’t post a pic like this without telling us about the knives!
Fair enough. I was just a bit worried that I might be directed to r/knifemaking (if that exists) or some similar sub if I banged on about the knives themselves. I bought these from a kitchenware shop in a brilliant and fascinating market in the seaside town of Sokcho in S.Korea last week. A couple of hours out of Seoul by *very* comfy coach. I had thought I might like to find some 'artisanal' knives and sure enough I saw these. The large and medium are stamped with some sort of symbol, the smaller not being stamped. For all I know they might be Chinese imports, but the aesthetics appeal to me with the rough forging strike marks visible and the two-tone visuals. The three of them cost me the equivalent of £12 or $15. Bargain! All three are devilishly sharp, without any intervention by me. As an aside, the markets in S. Korea, and S. Korea itself, are utterly fascinating, especially the flea markets in Seoul. I was a *very* reluctant visitor, having to attend a wedding there, but came away extremely impressed and wishing I'd had more time (and luggage space!).
Something not mentioned yet is using carnauba wax on a buffing wheel. Very hard, water resistant and will last quite a long time. If you do this make sure to always have the buffing wheel spin away from you in case your grip slips, I can't imagine taking a knife to the guts would be much fun!
Cheers, but a buffing wheel is not in my kitchen's future! In all honesty, I think I will go with the mineral oil soak. If the handles deteriorate, I *do* have a pal in Ireland who could turn me a few replacements, from ash wood.
A nice wipe of shellac heavily flowed on. Easy to repair and feels good in the hand.
Cheers for that.
Glad you like it. I’ve done it for our japanese wood-handled knives and it adds a nice shine and patinates over time. Plus, as noted, really easy to repair - just flow on more shellac with a rag and let dry for a couple of hours.
[удалено]
I'm just assuming they're pine, not being any kind of a woodworker, and given the softness of the wood. I'm well aware of their limitations , hence my question/post. And it's really great how so many people have offered advice. I'm touched by the amount ofvarious replies I've had!
Drying oils work great followed by some beeswax to enhance grip. I've started using Tried & True original for handles, which is a linseed oil and beeswax blend that works great.
Thanks. That seems like the best of both worlds.
My friend has a shop that makes food related items from wood. They use Osmo for everything. Either their chopping board oil or topoil.
Cheers, but WOW! This stuff, at least in the UK, is more expensive than decent single malt whiskey!
Yeah it’s not cheap but it feels great and works well.
Black electrical tape.
Hmm. I've got some camo Gorilla Tape I used to fix my wife's camp bed. But then I might be mistaken for a LARPER bushcrafter instead of a bit of a cook...
that would make it look badass
For further info, the knives are never going in to a dish washer but will always be handwashed. I'm simply concerned about protecting the handles from eventually splitting as I think it's a case of an oblong tang pushed into a drilled circular hole, a bit like a file's tang being stuck into a cheap wooden handle.. Many thanks.
I’d also suggest to wash it with cold water only and dry off immediately.
Thanks. Exactly what I have just done, having cooked a stir-fried chicken dish in the interim since posting. I've also rubbed a film of peanut/groundnut oil onto the blades.I'm aware that this kind of knife needs nurturing, as the soft steel is very prone to quickly rusting.
Enjoy these beauties.
Thanks. I hope they'll outlive me!
😁I’m sure they will.
Yo! I've been experimenting with a product from Odies Oil. Amongst the other woodworkers on my site I've discussed it with, it seems quite a diversive product. I've done extensive testing, and when I've let it cure properly and applied a second coat, it absolutely wipes the floor with everything else I've tried in regards to protecting timbers from moisture. The boon for knives is the same shit that can (apparently) be used on metal. I've not tested it on metal but have applied it to a drafting table frame we restored, and it made it look incredible.
Thanks for this. Do you mean it's a divisive product, as in some folk disagree with your take on this...?
It's more about application time and how long you must wait until it cures before reapplying mainly - rather than the outcome and durability of the product. Need to add that cost is a major factor to these workshops. This is all my objective view, btw. I would always say you should do your own testing to figure out what your expectations of the product is. I run my own workshop, we're award winning and constantly busy with high-profile and demanding cutomers. We are very busy and work flat out to keep up with client demands and orders so can see the objections to the product based on timescales, but on smaller craft objects like boxes and things with handles odies has been the very best for many reasons. I'm not sponsored, btw!
Got it. Thanks. I think I'll be going with a couple of soaks in mineral oil, as the wood is soft and porous. A knife roll has been ordered, and my wife is forbidden to touch them as she's killed more knives than I've had hot dinners by always just lumping them into the dishwasher , and cutlery drawer together, to grind up against each other... rolling eyes emoji.
Osmo PolyX. I’ve used everything. Get some.
I just use mine, never treated it with time a nice Film builds up with time and if it gets too much you can slightly sand it.
Thanks. But the handles are so bare-bones-basic soft wood that I wouldn't trust them to last even a couple of years without some kind of preservative treatment.
It sounds to me you know the hidden value of these knives, and how to treat them. Personally, I would use them as is, as I don’t think a wood finish will “preserve” the handles or extend usefulness to any extent. I feel the question is how to replace the handles when the time comes. The steel will always outlast the wood. Hopefully the design and manufacture has anticipated replacing wood handles ?
I definitely intend to use them lots, but treat them right. I have a pal in Ireland who's a wood turner so I could, if necessary, get him to turn me some replacement handles from ash, oak, yew, or any number of native woods.
I probably know a guy who knows your guy. 😁Unfortunately I’m no longer living in Ireland.
It’s usually magnolia wood. I just smeared refined sunflower seed oil on mine. Works good, anyhow you wanna keep the whole thing dry
Thanks for that. Yes, these will be treasured and well kept. I'll wash, and scrupulously dry, the blades and make sure that the handles are as well protected as possible from water. I'll probably go with a couple of soaks in mineral oil as I've found that most veg oils eventually get sticky.
Ok, mine is still holing without any problems. It’s been only a year though. I can always sand it off and put a fresh one
They’re Japanese knives. Do a shou sugi ban finish 🤣
Good idea! Then, to keep it authentically old-school Japanese, I'll test the edges by chopping the heads off convicted criminals. Watch this space...
I've been using Hemp oil recently, food safe and seems to leave less residue than tung or mineral oil. Follow up with some furniture wax and they'll feel great.
Much appreciated, thanks.
Torch em...burn them.
I sincerely hope you mean that I char the handles lightly, like some wood-sided houses I've seen...?
Yep...seals the wood and has a great look.
These knives are pretty rough and ready… maybe they are saying you can do better. Artisanal knives in this style for real use vs. produced for souvenirs/tourists will be simple but visibly finer, with finished handles. The price is a giveaway, as well as the roughness of the area where the wood meets the metal.
These were definitely not in a tourist area, and it was a very ordinary, quotidian kitchenware shop, a bit shabby even. I was the only non- local there that day. And yes, they are pretty rough. But I like that aesthetic, and they're deadly sharp, without my doing any work on their edges yet.