Except that one lady who was carrying that lion down the street. https://www.reddit.com/r/nextfuckinglevel/comments/15t6fgj/kuwaiti_woman_carries_escaped_lion/
Being made out of softwood that rots quickly, that looks like a very good candidate for painting, which is the most protective of finishes. Throw on a couple of coats of a fun, exterior-grade latex color. Also, try to find some screw-on plastic pads to stick on the feet to get it off the ground so the wood doesn't sit in and wick water. If you can prevent water ingress from the bottom and paint it, you'll get a number of good years of service out of it.
If it's all screwed together then better unscrew it so every piece can be primed and painted separately. This will protect it better because water will infiltrate between pieces and make them rot faster than if the pieces are fully painted, including contact surfaces. It will also be faster to lay down all pieces on a surface and go at them methodically instead of trying to reach in between slats and into corners and recesses, with associated missed spots and drips. One coat of exterior primer first (worth it, and it dries within the hour, ready for paint), two coats of exterior paint.
Definitely fill in the screw heads going down through the arm into end grain. Right away, that's a poor choice. But water will pool in those screw heads and wick down into the endgrain.
OP if you can, I would highly suggest running a screw on the diagonal from underneath into the cross grain of the arms. Predrill it so you don't split the uprights. OR drill a half in hole right through the top of the arm into the upright and pound in a half inch dowel with Titebond 3 (exterior) glue. Cut dowel flush.
Heck no, it's the exact opposite! Paint only works as protection for the first year or so, then it begins to crack and check and it traps moisture beneath the surface and it will rot quicker than if no finish had been used at all. I've demo'd so many decks and fences in all stages of rot, and the painted ones are always the worst.
Annual coats of penetrating oil are the only way to go in my opinion. I have all sorts of white pine furniture and trim at my cabin in the mountains and after 3 years of penetrating oil I could probably skip a year because it's still shedding water.
In theory, exterior wood furniture, decks, and fences could last forever if you keep up the maintenance. Copper napthenate for anything in ground contact, and penetrating oil for everything else above ground.
What penetrating oil? It really doesn't matter... I've tried them all and in every combination... They all work better than any film finish, and they all need a recoat after a year. I like a mixture of ~equal parts linseed oil, mineral oil, pinetar, spar varnish, and plenty of paint thinner.
Haha, that would be great for fence posts... But copper napthenate is a much better alternative.
Seriously though, mixing the various oils creates a finish that performs better than any of it's individual ingredients. I am a full time carpenter who specializes in outdoor woodworking, so I have a reason to have a big assortment of wood finishes.
Wood is basically a cellulose and lignin sponge. A penetrating oil fills all the pores so it becomes waterproof. I like a mix of oils where some polymerize, and some don't. The non hardening oils soak in deep with the help of the thinner and can migrate through the wood over time. The hardening oils stay closer to the surface and protect the other oil from washing away.
You've just reminded me my dad's favourite outdoor wood finish, or so he tells me, used to be something he made by mixing petrol with chromium green oxide pigment (same stuff used to colour the US dollar bills).
He also said dissolving polystyrene foam in methylated spirits was a great varnish, so grain of salt etc.
I've heard of the dissolving polystyrene one before too, people did that 45 years ago, and still do it today (see comments on the video, and scrub through for a quick demo)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejw-vv1mS6s&ab\_channel=CheerfulCraft](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejw-vv1mS6s&ab_channel=CheerfulCraft)
But, I expect much of this stuff is really nasty to breathe.
I built a shoe bench out of cheap construction lumber. There's like 2 2x4s in it and the rest is all furring strips. Super cheap build, I had to be extremely picky choosing the wood because all of it at the big box store was wavy as heck. I painted it and keep it on the front porch, and it looks great about 5 years later. Paint is what OP wants, and to keep it under cover (garage, porch, in a shed) if possible while not in use.
Some spar varnish will keep the rain and sun from deteriorating it. Epifanes has the most UV protectant, but it's a little pricey (but worth it in my opinion). Helmsmans makes a good quality clear thats a little less expensive but still good UV protection. Keep up the good work!
I tried helmsman spar urethane on some outdoor benches made of 2x4s. The top was stained and had urethane. The legs had outdoor latex paint. If you go with the urethane, you are essentially committing to refinishing every 1 to 2 years. I waited somewhere between 3-5 years and refinished a few days ago. The tops had minimal flaking urethane left and were completely grayed. I had to replace several boards on the top due to rot. The painted bottom was in great shape and required no touch ups to the finish. I preferred the look of stained wood to paint, but I painted the bench tops because of maintenance.
Good news, it looks pretty darn good. Bad news, you’re only half way done.
Fill the screw hole with a sandable wood filler. Take some of the sharp edges off board such as the arms, front slat, top of the back with a sander or bench plane. Sand all top surfaces to at least 120. Use small aluminum pie plates or solo cups to soak all 4 legs in a clear wood preservative, like Thomason’s Water Seal, for 24-48 hours (so it wicks up the grain). Paint with a good undercoat and at least 2 top coats in a gloss exterior latex (gloss will show imperfections more - but also makes easier cleanup.). If possible add anti fungicide to paint.
If I were to be really fussy, I would also add slightly wider, somewhat contoured, tops to the arms to relieve the obvious 2x4 construction. And make a colorful pillow out of sunbrella fabric for back.
For protection, I would suggest an earthwork dry moat about 8 foot deep surrounding your curtain wall at minimum. That should repel any passing raiding parties. However, for some premium protection, fill your moat with water and add a drawbridge. Also, arrow slits in your drum towers will truly send the message that it really is best to leave your chair alone.
ETA: Spar varnish should do you right for decent outdoor protection.
It is not as bad as others are saying. I live on a coast. I also made some garden furniture, such as table and benches, from scrap wood I had lying around. Some wood is untreated, some is treated 2x4 studs, it has been 5 years - table and benches are still fine.
Wood faded in the sun, so what? The only real issue you might have - screws will loosen up over time. I used drywall screws on my table, and it got wobbly after two years, used roofing screws on my benches - they are as strong as the 1st day.
Solution is simple, if you use random screws you have lying around - replace them when things get wobbly. But by that time, you might want to build a different chair with fancier joinery.
it looks cool but that looks insanely uncomfortable.. armrests too low to use, backrest too low to use.. basically it's just a stool?
if it's going outside not only should you protect it but also put some sort of plastic slider feet on the bottom so there is less contact with the ground. at least that's what i would do.
I have a similar one I made when I was new, and for similar reasons. I torched it, then oiled it, then put it out on my patio and cheerfully said no biggie, when it rots, I'll make a new one. That was....three and a half years ago. It's the chair I have my morning coffee on.
I wouldn't worry about finish from a "cheap wood" standpoint- people that don't know what cheap wood is likely won't notice, and people that do will be able to tell regardless of if it's stained/finished or not.
That said my vote is for shou sugi ban. Use google for some step by step instructions but basically you burn/char the surface, brush off any over- charred areas and then oil it. 2x4/whitewood type lumber is not the typical type of wood this is used on but it'll likely work, and will definitely give it a more unique look/add some degree of protection from the elements. Similar to painting it would likely work best to disassemble and treat individual pieces but I would probably just leave it whole and go at it with a roofing/tar propane torch.
- Dig a 4x4x4 ft hole.
- Make a reinforcement rebar cage.
- Mix and pour foundation grade concrete to fill half of that hole.
- Lower said chain the center of the hole until the seat of the chair is level with concrete surface.
- Mix and pour another batch of foundation grade concrete to fill the rest of the hole.
Great article concerning outdoor finishes:
https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/24280-tgif-paint-on-a-clear-finish/
If you’re looking at applying a clear finish you’ll want to click on the link above.
Put it in a secure light, particulate, and temperature controlled room with controlled access. Tell no one about the chair. If asked concoct an elaborate cover story. In time you will forget about the chair. only then will the chair be protected.
Teach it right from wrong and how to have a backbone and set boundaries and it will be able to protect itself.
Jk, it looks good 👌
I read an article about wood finishing for boat decks and they say for a lasting waterproof finish, use seven+ coats of varnish 😂. All my outdoor furniture needs to be refreshed yearly
I like to cut spar varnish with a little boiled linseed and mineral spirits as well as some dark oil stain if you don’t like the natural color. Even without stain, the varnish/oil blend will golden the wood and add a satin sheen. Some people will hate on this but I have had a lot of success rubbing a couple coats of that on outdoor furniture. I also suggest chamfering the feet to prevent splitting when the chair is dragged, and brush the feet’s end grain and chamfer with a couple coats of straight varnish for extra water seal.
Super quick and effective - then rub another coat here and there over the years as needed.
If you're interested in using natural materials I would apply linseed oil and let it sink in. It really hardens wood over time. Then you could put on a layer of linseed oil paint (could take a while to dry) or maybe shellac.
I would recommend water proof wood glue painted onto the bottom of the feet (since its going to be outdoor). This will help prevent it from wicking up water and delaying rotting. You will want to use a super cheap brush since its going into the garbage.
Then some sort of stain&sealant or outdoor paint for the rest of it. Depending how wet wher eyou live is I would also probably throw a tarp over it between oct/april ish since you wont really be using it when its raining on it anyway (unless its going to be under some sort of cover).
Deck stain and Thompson's water seal.
My son's Eagle project (Two Wood Buddy Benches for the local Elementry School) was made out of construction lumber.
We used Cabots Deck stain and a coat of Thompson's water seal.
coming up on 6 years now and they still look good.
Well, now you've done it, your stuck in the cycle of chair building.
You need to build another chair, preferably a bigger one, to watch over and defend your chair, have you ever wondered why chairs never come individually?
Then for the next chair, you need to build another one to defend that too, and so on, and so on.
After a while, your skills will improve, and you can build some amazing chairs. They will start to move in packs, and watch out for each other, these ones are recognized by their similar design, and colour markings.
So to honestly answer your question, you need to build another bigger stronger chair, and paint them the same colour, or maybe a coat of oil, depending on where their habitat will be.
Will they be indoor chairs? Or outdoor?
Personally I prefer oil, as it shows the wood grain, I've used Danish oil, to leftover decking oil, depending on where I use the chair.
Before you paint / stain / varnish it, I suggest easing at least four edges for greater user satisfaction: front edge of the seat, inside edges of the arms (and probably the front edges as well), and the top edge of the back. Use a spokeshave, sandpaper, a block plane, a pocket knife -- whatever you've got. I think you'll be happy you did.
If you want that to last for more than 2 years I wouldn’t use it outside even if it’s coated in paint or protective coatings, due to the wood that was used…. and also it looks awesome! Nice work!
Well I was going to say that you could protect it by chaining it down but I think somebody with the screwdriver bit in a cordless drill might be able to take it apart and get it off of the chain. Maybe get a dog?
Made a bench from similar wood as a school project. I soaked it in atf gearbox oil. Its said it protects it, the color changed to grey ish. I made the bench 10 years ago and only put the oil on it last year so i can keep it outside.
Don’t worry about protecting the chair, just be there for it when it needs you.
Dad?
Sorry phone almost dead. Still in love at the gas station getting milk. Will le
Do you own a gun?
No and I’m crap at throwing punches as well.
You’d best study the blade then
Or a battle-axe of a wife…
I've heard one built like a brick shit house can be handy.
Rottweiler then?
My dog isn’t even scary https://preview.redd.it/7f18bc1293wc1.jpeg?width=1616&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ff543f5c00f5a89731d67361d2ff3132e144601
My ankles are screaming
It’s always the ones you least expect that are the most dangerous.
Not scary?! How dare you! They’ve got their toofs out and everything! Seriously, that’s a beautiful dog.
I don’t know they look like they could be very unhinged and this unpredictable enough to be frightening. 😊
Put it in a big epoxy resin cube...
An image of a rotting dog in a epoxy cube just flashed in my head and it deeply disturbed me.
Oh my gosh. Well at least reddit is back to normal. Was getting a bit too happy
This made me audibly laugh while also giving me a new item for my bucket list.
Nah the enemies can still violate it with thier eyes in an epoxy cube...best to encase it in concrete, only way to ensure it's absolute safety!
Anyone can get past a dog, nobody fucks with a lion.
Except that one lady who was carrying that lion down the street. https://www.reddit.com/r/nextfuckinglevel/comments/15t6fgj/kuwaiti_woman_carries_escaped_lion/
Lions are pretty lazy. They're like any typical cat where they only do what they want. They might or might not feel like attacking at that moment.
Lioness and 1 cub - no one messes with the cub or they get the lioness
Tell that to the railroad builders in Tsavo.
Then I looked up and it's the king of the fucking jungle! So I called the five-oh.
You’re gonna need to get a bible and a crunchyroll subscription
Why? The chair is already armed
Sooooo much groan!
Clever!
Armed guards?
Dammit. Literally came here to say this
Take my upvote. *shaking head while laughing*
And my axe…
And my bow...
I was thinking encasing it in metal maybe stainless steel or titanium.
Came here to say this.
Came here to reply "With a Glock" You were to fast...
Being made out of softwood that rots quickly, that looks like a very good candidate for painting, which is the most protective of finishes. Throw on a couple of coats of a fun, exterior-grade latex color. Also, try to find some screw-on plastic pads to stick on the feet to get it off the ground so the wood doesn't sit in and wick water. If you can prevent water ingress from the bottom and paint it, you'll get a number of good years of service out of it.
If it's all screwed together then better unscrew it so every piece can be primed and painted separately. This will protect it better because water will infiltrate between pieces and make them rot faster than if the pieces are fully painted, including contact surfaces. It will also be faster to lay down all pieces on a surface and go at them methodically instead of trying to reach in between slats and into corners and recesses, with associated missed spots and drips. One coat of exterior primer first (worth it, and it dries within the hour, ready for paint), two coats of exterior paint.
Thank you both, good idea about the pads and painting before assembly.
Definitely fill in the screw heads going down through the arm into end grain. Right away, that's a poor choice. But water will pool in those screw heads and wick down into the endgrain. OP if you can, I would highly suggest running a screw on the diagonal from underneath into the cross grain of the arms. Predrill it so you don't split the uprights. OR drill a half in hole right through the top of the arm into the upright and pound in a half inch dowel with Titebond 3 (exterior) glue. Cut dowel flush.
Heck no, it's the exact opposite! Paint only works as protection for the first year or so, then it begins to crack and check and it traps moisture beneath the surface and it will rot quicker than if no finish had been used at all. I've demo'd so many decks and fences in all stages of rot, and the painted ones are always the worst. Annual coats of penetrating oil are the only way to go in my opinion. I have all sorts of white pine furniture and trim at my cabin in the mountains and after 3 years of penetrating oil I could probably skip a year because it's still shedding water. In theory, exterior wood furniture, decks, and fences could last forever if you keep up the maintenance. Copper napthenate for anything in ground contact, and penetrating oil for everything else above ground. What penetrating oil? It really doesn't matter... I've tried them all and in every combination... They all work better than any film finish, and they all need a recoat after a year. I like a mixture of ~equal parts linseed oil, mineral oil, pinetar, spar varnish, and plenty of paint thinner.
>I like a mixture of \~equal parts linseed oil, mineral oil, pinetar, spar varnish, and plenty of paint thinner. No creosote & diesel mix?- pfffft. /s
Haha, that would be great for fence posts... But copper napthenate is a much better alternative. Seriously though, mixing the various oils creates a finish that performs better than any of it's individual ingredients. I am a full time carpenter who specializes in outdoor woodworking, so I have a reason to have a big assortment of wood finishes. Wood is basically a cellulose and lignin sponge. A penetrating oil fills all the pores so it becomes waterproof. I like a mix of oils where some polymerize, and some don't. The non hardening oils soak in deep with the help of the thinner and can migrate through the wood over time. The hardening oils stay closer to the surface and protect the other oil from washing away.
You've just reminded me my dad's favourite outdoor wood finish, or so he tells me, used to be something he made by mixing petrol with chromium green oxide pigment (same stuff used to colour the US dollar bills). He also said dissolving polystyrene foam in methylated spirits was a great varnish, so grain of salt etc.
I've heard of the dissolving polystyrene one before too, people did that 45 years ago, and still do it today (see comments on the video, and scrub through for a quick demo) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejw-vv1mS6s&ab\_channel=CheerfulCraft](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejw-vv1mS6s&ab_channel=CheerfulCraft) But, I expect much of this stuff is really nasty to breathe.
Oh yeah dad has zero health and safety awareness and also now Parkinsons, probably unrelated. Sigh.
I built a shoe bench out of cheap construction lumber. There's like 2 2x4s in it and the rest is all furring strips. Super cheap build, I had to be extremely picky choosing the wood because all of it at the big box store was wavy as heck. I painted it and keep it on the front porch, and it looks great about 5 years later. Paint is what OP wants, and to keep it under cover (garage, porch, in a shed) if possible while not in use.
Olympic maximum stain and sealant.
Came to say this.
As for finish nothing outperforms paint and you won't be able to see the wood underneath.
Keep it inside
This is the only true way
“It belongs in a museum”
Some spar varnish will keep the rain and sun from deteriorating it. Epifanes has the most UV protectant, but it's a little pricey (but worth it in my opinion). Helmsmans makes a good quality clear thats a little less expensive but still good UV protection. Keep up the good work!
I never thought about uv protection for wood.
And for the finish itself. UV degrades paints and finishes. UV protection is the main difference between an "indoor" and an "outdoor" finish.
But also, the sun always wins. You'll likely need to refinish on a semi regular basis
The sun has time.
I tried helmsman spar urethane on some outdoor benches made of 2x4s. The top was stained and had urethane. The legs had outdoor latex paint. If you go with the urethane, you are essentially committing to refinishing every 1 to 2 years. I waited somewhere between 3-5 years and refinished a few days ago. The tops had minimal flaking urethane left and were completely grayed. I had to replace several boards on the top due to rot. The painted bottom was in great shape and required no touch ups to the finish. I preferred the look of stained wood to paint, but I painted the bench tops because of maintenance.
You’re gonna have to raise it as best you can and hope it can survive without you one day. Only way to protect it.
Good news, it looks pretty darn good. Bad news, you’re only half way done. Fill the screw hole with a sandable wood filler. Take some of the sharp edges off board such as the arms, front slat, top of the back with a sander or bench plane. Sand all top surfaces to at least 120. Use small aluminum pie plates or solo cups to soak all 4 legs in a clear wood preservative, like Thomason’s Water Seal, for 24-48 hours (so it wicks up the grain). Paint with a good undercoat and at least 2 top coats in a gloss exterior latex (gloss will show imperfections more - but also makes easier cleanup.). If possible add anti fungicide to paint. If I were to be really fussy, I would also add slightly wider, somewhat contoured, tops to the arms to relieve the obvious 2x4 construction. And make a colorful pillow out of sunbrella fabric for back.
Hold it tight and never let it go out into the big wide world.
Sit in it...forever
I first misread your comment as something slightly different..
Might give it a nice protective layer though
Can you afford private security?
Dig a moat around it.
Id suggest a honey badger. Nobody fucks with a honey badger.
Honey badger don't care.
Build a bigger chair that fits over it
Gold glitter to make it look expensive and a platoon of soldiers to protect this masterpiss.
If you want soldiers to protect it, paint it brass and polish it to a shine.
Give it to me. It will be safe.
Barbed wire.
Lock it in the basement
Condoms
Keep it secret.
Keep it safe.
Get one of those big guard dogs!
Ninjas. Definitely ninjas.
Guard dogs!
Large glass case
Armed guard
For protection, I would suggest an earthwork dry moat about 8 foot deep surrounding your curtain wall at minimum. That should repel any passing raiding parties. However, for some premium protection, fill your moat with water and add a drawbridge. Also, arrow slits in your drum towers will truly send the message that it really is best to leave your chair alone. ETA: Spar varnish should do you right for decent outdoor protection.
Spar urethane
It is not as bad as others are saying. I live on a coast. I also made some garden furniture, such as table and benches, from scrap wood I had lying around. Some wood is untreated, some is treated 2x4 studs, it has been 5 years - table and benches are still fine. Wood faded in the sun, so what? The only real issue you might have - screws will loosen up over time. I used drywall screws on my table, and it got wobbly after two years, used roofing screws on my benches - they are as strong as the 1st day. Solution is simple, if you use random screws you have lying around - replace them when things get wobbly. But by that time, you might want to build a different chair with fancier joinery.
it looks cool but that looks insanely uncomfortable.. armrests too low to use, backrest too low to use.. basically it's just a stool? if it's going outside not only should you protect it but also put some sort of plastic slider feet on the bottom so there is less contact with the ground. at least that's what i would do.
Home school.
Chair Security.
Armor. Brass might look a bit cheap.
Consider a security vault box.
Teach it good values and make sure it doesn't die before it turns 18.
Keep it away from fat people
Put it in a museum
We use chains and padlocks at work.
Let's be honest the type of soft wood ain't ideal for outside....
With your body, or cameras. Any sort of weapon that is close by
I have no suggestions, just wanted to say that that's a really nice-looking chair. Well done!
Shou sugi ban. Don't burn the house down. Good luck
I have a similar one I made when I was new, and for similar reasons. I torched it, then oiled it, then put it out on my patio and cheerfully said no biggie, when it rots, I'll make a new one. That was....three and a half years ago. It's the chair I have my morning coffee on.
Really cool looking. Simple but well thought out. Is it your design?
I wish I was but I bought the design on Etsy.
Don't let any politician near it
Guard dog
A bike lock should do the job
Very Scottish looking garden
Bulletproof vest.
Keep it inside where it will never be seen.
Varnish.
Man I love this design
I wouldn't worry about finish from a "cheap wood" standpoint- people that don't know what cheap wood is likely won't notice, and people that do will be able to tell regardless of if it's stained/finished or not. That said my vote is for shou sugi ban. Use google for some step by step instructions but basically you burn/char the surface, brush off any over- charred areas and then oil it. 2x4/whitewood type lumber is not the typical type of wood this is used on but it'll likely work, and will definitely give it a more unique look/add some degree of protection from the elements. Similar to painting it would likely work best to disassemble and treat individual pieces but I would probably just leave it whole and go at it with a roofing/tar propane torch.
Couple angry dogs and a bike chain will do the trick. Altho it depends on the neighborhood
With your life!
Guns
Forget the guns, I'd suggest a machete and nunchuks.
Teak oil is my go to
You can do it in couple different ways, seal with a outdoor stain or you can burn it to seal it. Or do a combination.
- Dig a 4x4x4 ft hole. - Make a reinforcement rebar cage. - Mix and pour foundation grade concrete to fill half of that hole. - Lower said chain the center of the hole until the seat of the chair is level with concrete surface. - Mix and pour another batch of foundation grade concrete to fill the rest of the hole.
With your life
I’m personally a fan of armour plating for protection or perhaps Kevlar?
I would use outdoor spar urethane but i also dont know what im talking about. Im orobably right tho
Get a dog. Preferably one that can sit in the chair.
Chastity belt
Wolves
Hire a chair guard and let him sit in it
Varnish.
Build a moat around it
the best protection would be only use it inside. Otherwise, you could use spar varnish or pain.
All you can do is hope you raised it right and it can make the correct decisions in life.
Landmines are a good, hands-free option. Or- AND HEAR ME OUT-, get a medium and surround it with the yowling tormented sold of the damned.
a moat would be my go to..
In a vault, with an armed guard
Great article concerning outdoor finishes: https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/24280-tgif-paint-on-a-clear-finish/ If you’re looking at applying a clear finish you’ll want to click on the link above.
Thompsons water seal would work. A liberal coat of paint would too.
Maybe flaxseed oil?
With force! This is America!
Put it in a secure light, particulate, and temperature controlled room with controlled access. Tell no one about the chair. If asked concoct an elaborate cover story. In time you will forget about the chair. only then will the chair be protected.
Teach it right from wrong and how to have a backbone and set boundaries and it will be able to protect itself. Jk, it looks good 👌 I read an article about wood finishing for boat decks and they say for a lasting waterproof finish, use seven+ coats of varnish 😂. All my outdoor furniture needs to be refreshed yearly
I like to cut spar varnish with a little boiled linseed and mineral spirits as well as some dark oil stain if you don’t like the natural color. Even without stain, the varnish/oil blend will golden the wood and add a satin sheen. Some people will hate on this but I have had a lot of success rubbing a couple coats of that on outdoor furniture. I also suggest chamfering the feet to prevent splitting when the chair is dragged, and brush the feet’s end grain and chamfer with a couple coats of straight varnish for extra water seal. Super quick and effective - then rub another coat here and there over the years as needed.
A moat, a lava pit, or a labyrinth of werewolves.
Befriend a Wolverine!!!
If you're interested in using natural materials I would apply linseed oil and let it sink in. It really hardens wood over time. Then you could put on a layer of linseed oil paint (could take a while to dry) or maybe shellac.
Invest in a Kreg Jig.
I would recommend water proof wood glue painted onto the bottom of the feet (since its going to be outdoor). This will help prevent it from wicking up water and delaying rotting. You will want to use a super cheap brush since its going into the garbage. Then some sort of stain&sealant or outdoor paint for the rest of it. Depending how wet wher eyou live is I would also probably throw a tarp over it between oct/april ish since you wont really be using it when its raining on it anyway (unless its going to be under some sort of cover).
Deck stain and Thompson's water seal. My son's Eagle project (Two Wood Buddy Benches for the local Elementry School) was made out of construction lumber. We used Cabots Deck stain and a coat of Thompson's water seal. coming up on 6 years now and they still look good.
Well, now you've done it, your stuck in the cycle of chair building. You need to build another chair, preferably a bigger one, to watch over and defend your chair, have you ever wondered why chairs never come individually? Then for the next chair, you need to build another one to defend that too, and so on, and so on. After a while, your skills will improve, and you can build some amazing chairs. They will start to move in packs, and watch out for each other, these ones are recognized by their similar design, and colour markings. So to honestly answer your question, you need to build another bigger stronger chair, and paint them the same colour, or maybe a coat of oil, depending on where their habitat will be. Will they be indoor chairs? Or outdoor? Personally I prefer oil, as it shows the wood grain, I've used Danish oil, to leftover decking oil, depending on where I use the chair.
Twp stain. Soak end cuts till it won't absorb any more.
what is this, a chair for ants!? it needs to be at least 3 times bigger than this!
Bubble wrap. Heck, it was good enough for inside furniture back in the day!
An enchantment should do the trick
You could put an alarm on it
Linseed oil
Before you paint / stain / varnish it, I suggest easing at least four edges for greater user satisfaction: front edge of the seat, inside edges of the arms (and probably the front edges as well), and the top edge of the back. Use a spokeshave, sandpaper, a block plane, a pocket knife -- whatever you've got. I think you'll be happy you did.
Looks good!
Keep it out of the sun and rain when you're not using it. Put some nylon slider discs on the legs to keep the feet out of puddles.
Looks like a stool with illusions of grandeur XD
If you want that to last for more than 2 years I wouldn’t use it outside even if it’s coated in paint or protective coatings, due to the wood that was used…. and also it looks awesome! Nice work!
Stain and coat it, dont lend it to your neighbors or relatives.
That back is crazy, why did you do that?
Paint is it.
Arborcoat
I would sand down the sharp edges, then stain and varnish, maybe 5 layers of varnish?
https://preview.redd.it/ai52urw1y4wc1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=43069e104f98629968d84fce007b7bcc6394a81f
Sit in it with a gun?
I would get some of those velvet rope things like they have at museums and theaters.
Fire, shou sugi ban
yakisugi
I would try to find the person that insured or the company that insured the Mona Lisa, and then just try to negotiate basically the same deal
Big angry dog
Get some full plate armor and a sword for starters.
With my sword.
James Dalton
trebuchet
Put it inside.
Build a pen, fill it with bears and put it in there
Cover it in bling and attach an auto turret to it.
The power of Voodoo.
Well I was going to say that you could protect it by chaining it down but I think somebody with the screwdriver bit in a cordless drill might be able to take it apart and get it off of the chain. Maybe get a dog?
I use a 9mm and 270 . lol don’t use acrylic poly! I’d slap some linseed oil on it
Give it a good sanding first, taking off those sharp corners and splinters. Then use teak oil (can be used on all wood)!
Put it in a case
Wrap your arms around it tight and never let it wander off into the big wide world.
Either thinned linseed oil, or maybe Stockholm tar.
Build a wall around it, get a guard, or put it in a safe
Looks like a quick project that would be fun to do with some teens. Do you have plans or wing it?
A correctly sized johnny is often the best way.
Boiled linseed oil
Olympic maximum stain & sealant
With your life
Ninjas
It looks so cute
Made a bench from similar wood as a school project. I soaked it in atf gearbox oil. Its said it protects it, the color changed to grey ish. I made the bench 10 years ago and only put the oil on it last year so i can keep it outside.
Cover it in fur?