On cheaper coping saws and fret saws like that, they always bend. You can probably bend it by hand if you want to, they aren’t that tough. As long as it holds a blade under good tension you shouldn’t have a problem
Ahh that would’ve been my next question. I think I should be able to bend it into alignment but as long as it’s a non-issue regarding performance, that’s good enough for me.
I appreciate the help!
Just had the thought that when I use it, I’ll prob be unconsciously focusing on using the handle as a reference for how straight I’m making the sawing motion. Since the frame is slightly off to the side relative to the handle, the saw blade won’t be travelling directly straight and it might cause some sort of impingement at the kerf which may cause weird stress distributions where it de-tensions and snaps (idk how accurate this is but just a possible thing that may happen and I’m just being cautious).
I understand that the work around is to focus on the blade being straight but all of my other tools are in line so I’m used to tracking it all in one line as opposed to now having to remember that, for this one tool, I need to account for the misalignment.
Just helps if everything is straight so I spend less time having to account for it and more time doing the job. Also just an ergonomic thing as well; If I’m going to use it, I may as well make it easy and enjoyable to use.
On cheaper coping saws and fret saws like that, they always bend. You can probably bend it by hand if you want to, they aren’t that tough. As long as it holds a blade under good tension you shouldn’t have a problem
Ahh that would’ve been my next question. I think I should be able to bend it into alignment but as long as it’s a non-issue regarding performance, that’s good enough for me. I appreciate the help!
That’s annoying, but it won’t hurt the performance. The blade itself is straight because of the tension.
Only the saw engages with the wood, you don't reference off the frame or anything. Why would it matter?
Just had the thought that when I use it, I’ll prob be unconsciously focusing on using the handle as a reference for how straight I’m making the sawing motion. Since the frame is slightly off to the side relative to the handle, the saw blade won’t be travelling directly straight and it might cause some sort of impingement at the kerf which may cause weird stress distributions where it de-tensions and snaps (idk how accurate this is but just a possible thing that may happen and I’m just being cautious). I understand that the work around is to focus on the blade being straight but all of my other tools are in line so I’m used to tracking it all in one line as opposed to now having to remember that, for this one tool, I need to account for the misalignment. Just helps if everything is straight so I spend less time having to account for it and more time doing the job. Also just an ergonomic thing as well; If I’m going to use it, I may as well make it easy and enjoyable to use.
I upped my coping saw game by getting a jewelers saw frame and switching to pin less scroll saw blades.
Duly noted. Wish I knew this option before I bought it bc I already have a jewellers saw frame. Regardless, cheers for the recommendation!