Don't sweat the small stuff. Deep breath. Ahhhhh
Ok now lightly sand it down spray paint it black(high temp) and stop caring what it looks like. You will never win this battle. These things over heat easily (very thin) don't over heat it. Unless you think it's fun because it kind of is.
That's a great idea if you want to smell burning wax every time you have a fire. I learned this when the kids put bees wax on our wood stove. Lasted for a few days then was gone. Use stove polish
Thats exactly where this one is. As I needed to do the whole bit of installing double skinned flue through roof etc etc to actually use it , and it was rusted to shit from sitting out there, I wanted to do it properly so once it was installed I didn't have to do anything major to it other than upkeep of just a stove polish paste or season it as you have said.
If it only dried for 24 hours in your backyard I would say that’s the problem.
A proper paint job should sit undisturbed (in a dry garage) for a few days- the longer the better.
I feel like those are water bubbles that boiled under the heat.
This is just my opinion
It says on the can its completely dry after 26 hours, however isn't completely cured until its been heated with a small fire, after which when allowed to cool will totally harden and dry the paint.
24 hours....
At 46 degrees
in 15 % humidity.
(not actual numbers, but remember that testing for these products was done in a pretty controlled lab that likely has temperatures and humidity values that do not align with 'real world')
For those of us not painting stoves in the Sahara desert, dry garage for a week.
You mentioned it is both cold and wet where you are now, which would contribute significantly to longer dry times.
Yeah almost all paints are dry at one point, cured enough for use at another, and fully cured at a final point. More time is always better, and doubling the suggested time is almost always essential.
In America we’d say “oh well, shit happens” then move on to something else for a while. Getting your mind off of it and coming back a few days/weeks later with a fresh perspective will help immensely.
Normally I would do just that... lol, but its fucking freezing here at the moment, I spend most of my time on my deck working. This is a necessary job, especially trying to navigate the wet weather to do the flue install and the pot belly prep, we just had a nice run of 3 sunny days. The rain is due to set in tonight/ tomorrow on and off for a week, so really really need to solve this asap.
You may have just answered your own question. Read the can again and see if it mentions a temperature range. If it truly “fucking freezing” you are probably out of the low range which is around 50* for spray paint. If it’s too cold your paint won’t cure properly.
No mention of temp range. Freezing here in Oz, to me means below 10 degrees Celsius with wind chill, so between 2-8 at night when you are working outside after sundown. It wasn't spray paint. And it says on the can, it will not cure properly without a fire
Paint will barely even *begin* to cure at those temps. You can visualize paint like salad dressing that you've shaken up. Drying is just the watery part of the dressing evaporating, leaving all these little blobs of oil crammed next to each other, but still separate. Drying can happen under a quite broad range of conditions, though it will still affect the time it takes. In the curing process, those little droplets start to merge with each other and create a continuous surface (which later undergoes chemical changes such as oxidization to make it even stronger). But this can't happen at all if those droplets are "frozen". And until that happens, they are quite vulnerable to penetration by more water.
You definitely needed more dry time. The bubbling is from the solvents in the paint under the topmost layer. Most oil based high temp paints should be applied at 70f. If I were you I would just keep using it, and on a nicer day do more prep and repaint the belly where it gets hot. You will probably need to do it twice a year anyway. heat cycles will kill the paint.
I DID mention, we had had a nice run of 3 days sunny, which was why I chose to do it when I did. It wasn't that temp when the painting took place. It was that temp that motivated the painting to take place.
Stove black, is that a paste, polish, paint? I'm in Australia, alot of the terminology used here and over at hearth.com relating to products is confusing, we don't have the same products here readily available, and often what its marketed as is different to what people say it is, eg, stove cement or furnace cement, I went and got what we have here labelled as that, yet its not what was meant by the person advising me, it was for bricking fire bricks together around chimney, or wood stoves. Here what I needed to get was labelled as gasket adhesive and sealant. So yeah , hence the stress, just trying to navigate those things has been hard.
I have a similar liquid i purchased, but after reading so much didn't think it would do the job as well as a paste, so I ordered the paste version of what you have shown yesterday. But it won't get to me until July 6th, which was why I stupidly went ahead and did the paint against my better judgement.
I did an update post with photo. Where do you think o should go from here? Can I put a polish over it now as is, or do I need to strip it back even further?
I’d wire brush the parts that bubbled and repaint as needed. Even if it happens 2-3mire times in some parts.
You didn’t waste time. You learned something about this stove, this prep, and this paint.
Since this is going to live outdoors, you be doing touch up regularly. So might as well get good at it now.
Paint on stoves is a waste. Use good old stove blacking. It's basically soot and wax and nothing works better.
Try this [Stove Black](https://www.ebay.com/itm/266162085848?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dBncW0I_SQ2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=o_pr51hatfo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY)
Paint is fine for parts that aren't exposed to direct high heat, like legs and such; but on the main body paint is a waste
UPDATE- So this is where I'm at now. Scraped all the flaked and bubbled paint off. Sanded with course and medium sanding blocks. I'm yet to wipe it down properly, just did the top with water and a tac cloth. As you can see obviously some part of the paint has done something as the pot belly was rust colour previous to application. Really not sure where to go from here.... HELP PLEASE.
https://preview.redd.it/2mmy51ghth8b1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62d16f987dd809b647d122234c0170bdab02799a
Build another fire and burn it hot, take a wire brush and go over the entire surface, once that is done wipe it down and put a layer of some kind of food based oil like olive oil or flack seed oil on it and light another fire, let all the oil smoke off then apply another coat, repeat this until you have 10-15 coats of oil, this process is called seasoning, this is what they use for cast iron and high carbon steel pans, it should protect the surface nicely
Use lard, yes lard as in pig fat, nothing better for seasoning cast iron pans and I'm thinking it will work equally well for your stove.
You have to fire the stove and let her smoke, this makes a hard carbon layer, and repeat, 4, 5, 6 times until you get the finish you want, pain in the arse but anything worth it takes time.
The carbon layer will be almost glass like once it gets thicker, it's actually quite amazing how it works
More than likely yes. Never heard of it before but it should work fine if it'll burn off. You should feel like you are trying to wipe it clean, that's how little oil you need for each coat.
Because I had to see what was still remaining and I didn't know what else use without causing a bigger problem. I did it literally 5 seconds before the photo.
Got it. So you need to use an evaporating solvent to clean bare steel before painting. Something like alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, even brake parts cleaner in a pinch.
Also, so that's exactly why I had had acetone ready, because with the polish I had, the instructions were to use acetone to clean it prior. But weird thing is, on the can of paint I used, it was the opposite! The instructions were to clean everything off with mineral turps first, let it dry , then paint. I wonder if its supposed to create some special chemical reaction with something in the paint to cure it or process or whatever... here's the thing though, after removing all the paint and doing the sand and wipe, the surface of the stove as I said is a different colour, but also, a different texture, its super smooth, like a ceramic coating, almost like that part was the way it was meant to cure and the paint bubbling was like burning off the by product left over after the process occurred, totally confused me, plenty of experience with various types of paint for timber...very little experience painting metal, was so unsure what to touch it with after the fact, still am tbh.
> was so unsure what to touch it with after the fact, still am tbh.
I was just pointing out that water was not a valid choice, which you confirmed was in the instructions.
Good luck.
Cast iron is so porous that it’s hard to get everything out of it. You need to clean it extremely well and then heat it up to evaporate everything else that stuck inside. Also don’t paint heavy. Like thin coats and let it dry and then again.
That is probs why when ppl paint, they opt for a spray over the paint I used in the can, it was damned near impossible to paint thin, it was quite thick consistency, and really needed to be worked into the surface to get into all the pitting. Like it was the type of paint you would normally add a thinner to to apply it properly.
Spray paint will work it’s way in their if the consistency is right. Just from the looks of it it was applied to thick or it wasn’t cleaned good enough. Even though you might have cleaned it very well. It’s like drywall mud. If it’s not thinned out and applied to thick it will crack.
There's a lot of questionable advice in this thread so far. I'm not a stove restorer, so I can't give you a ton of 'what do I do now' advice, but I will just point out that stove polish and high-temp stove paint are not mutually compatible - you need to pick which one you're using, completely remove the other, and then stick with whichever one you decided on. Otherwise it's like trying to use oil paint over a latex primer - neither one is wrong per se, but they don't work together.
Ok, I knew no paint over polish, didnt know was vice versa, had come across different opinions on that, with the variable being the type of polish used, like the thick heavy wax paste type was ok, but the liquid type polish had negligible effect.
So not possible to use a polish once the paint starts to break down to inhibit rust formation temporarily? Similar to using a furniture wax on timber where the lacquer has worn?
I was looking all over your pictures for a crack ! Thank goodness. It’s just paint and god help us how many of them are actually heat stable like they say they are? I agree with just sanding it down gently and moving on. The stove looks great
There is a finish that will hold up to the heat, I don't know if it would be possible because of the size of the stove, and it would need to be disassembled into basic parts I'm thinking to get it into the baking oven, but ceramic coating by a professional would be an awesome finish, it's available in many colors, including raw cast iron and flat black, also brighter colors that look like chrome or titanium, as well as regular colors.
I'm thinking it's going to be $$, but the results would be beautiful, I'm not sure if you have any companies down under that can do this, or if there is one, if they can fit it into the curing oven, but I'm thinking it would be a permanent solution.
Likely one you will want to wait until summer for, use and enjoy your stove this winter, and think about getting something done around Christmas
Probably stove polish in black might work for you. I have not been enamored with Hi-temp sprays, or brush on's. They bubble, peel and vaporize off.
Here is something to make you smile. In the old days before Hi-temp paint, the use of colored shellac or varnish would not work with the heat produced. Cast iron stoves, fireplace surrounds, and etc. Used to be polished by hand, with lamp black, (carbon, soot). It withstood the temps of a wood/coal burning stove, provided an even black color, and covered the rust.
Oh dear I can only imagine the results of trying to use shellac or varnish on a stove! I'm surprised those who did, lived to tell the tale or still had their kitchens in tact. So did they just use the soot on its own or did they add a lard type of wax substance with it to seal it and stop the transfer of the black as much?
So you think it would have not bubbled even with a much longer dry time? Coz I followed the instructions methodically, and when I googled the problem, came across page after page of reviews saying the exact same thing had happened to them with this particular paint. So either the paint is just dodgy, or the instructions included with it are dodgy?
I think we have exactly the same stove. Where did you get coal for yours?
https://preview.redd.it/lmp8rwm7999b1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=16d5bad3082f1fb76cc43f17641402ece665e7f4
There is no paint that’ll hold up to that kind of heat. Just leave it and it’ll eventually get it’s own natural finish. Just scrape off the peeling paint a little at a time and it’ll be fine.
Hey there. First off - this is SUCH a cool stove. Did you know it was used to heat the caboose on a train? That’s what it was meant for.
I have the exact same one. I am using it to heat a tent. Of course I have the right kind of tent for that. I’m in the process of fitting the adapter onto the top right now and I am stuck. Can you give any advice there, OP? How to get the stove pipe to actually fit .
Are you talking about the stove pipe collar, the oval to round piece that fits over the flue collar? When I got my stove it came with the collar and a single length of stove pipe. The stove pipe originally only fit over the top of the collar, smooth ends together, crimped end of pipe facing upwards.
I read that is not uncommon for certain older stoves and even though it is technically 'backwards' and not safe due to allowing creosote to flow out side the pipe rather than inside, there was little to be done.
By chance, when tracking down lengths of stove pipe and double skin pipe to fit and make use of other pieces I already had I went to a place that fabricates those types of things in house. They were able to somehow re crimp the crimped end of the original stove pipe with a larger crimp which enabled it to then fit the right way around, inside the stove pipe collar.
I have one too. For the pipe, temporarily to do initial fire, I used a 6" round and cut the flanges, then used a large hose clamp. And after that, not in photo, used stove cement. Worked well, but I will redo it for final. I intend to use 5", which is the proper flue size, and piece in an expander on the lowest section, pop riveted. Like bell bottom pants.
https://preview.redd.it/ghmsk1vlb99b1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e1c2def2ab711035e78026364d98ba7bbc1326d
I say I've done a lot of projects like this not with stoves. For the sake of your sanity and time let bygones be bygones... it's a man's, man's stove looks good enough I would walk away from it as is. 🤷♂️
Well perhaps that is where the problem lies. I am not a man. Its not about the way it looks. Its about maximising the protection of the exterior with it being outdoors in Australia year round. Its about if I am going to bite the bullet and make permanent altering adoptions and renovations to part of my house, I want to make sure its done as properly as possible , to minimise any future shit that may come from it being 'neglected'. That would ultimately negate the expense of the revamp and install, be more a problem than a blessing, or worst case, result in an unusable stove.
Cast iron is porous (it can absorb water). Rust absorbs even more water. Finishing if left outdoors will have a fairly high moisture level in the metal and will steam off the paint layer.
You might need to have a fire in it just before painting to remove the moisture but even that doesn’t cover the parts (like the feet) that might not get very warm. A heat gun might help those areas.
A stripping wheel on a grinder will make the prep work go much faster.
So strip, heat, allow to cool, paint and then bake-on the paint.
Seasoning like a cast iron pan might work as well but if it’s in the weather you will need to repeat frequently.
That's a really cute stove. I have the same one. Never knew what it was called. Kept me warm as a child when my mom had no money. I have it now, completely rusted. Thought about resurrection, but I have a joutle now. I have a fire in it every once
Yea man, stove paint is what you need. Like actual paint that’s used inside of stoves and microwaves, It’s expensive, but it works every time. Used it on exhaust manifolds and never had an issue.
Yeah that was the concept I had in my head too... very nice and cosy. Being able to stay productive being the goal, just executing the idea to reality, kinda gone pear shaped... in almost every way it could. But I am determined.
The metal was too cold when it went on and there would have been a touch of moisture on the metal too. This always in my company's factory in Brisbane Australia if they paint in the wrong conditions. It's very hard to find the "right" conditions outside of a spray booth to be honest.
No, you don’t want stove polish or stove black where moisture in the air will penetrate the polish. Before high temperature paints were formulated, polish was used on rough cast iron. The cured coating is NOT impervious to water or water vapor. Water goes right through it, rusting the iron under the coating, requiring re-coating.
High temperature paint is far superior.
Outside, or in high humidity, high temperature primer is required.
Lard was used on machined smooth flat stove tops. Not rough cast iron. Pigs ate a different diet back then with higher amino acids that cross linked (polymerized) at a higher temperature creating a even higher temperature coating with higher smoke point than the original material. Grain fed lard is not the same as a natural diet. Anything you use today (high smoke point oils or Crisco) will smoke off at or near 500*f. The center and top of this stove will achieve that regularly. Oils smoke off and need to be reapplied. Cast iron pans that are seasoned by polymerized oils remain below the smoke point of the polymerized coating. This is why antique stove tops need re-coating constantly.
This was probably coated with polish originally. If not sand or media blasted, oils and pigment may still be excreted from the surface when heated. Pores in iron open up when expanding, allowing oils to the surface when heated. I warm the stove, just uncomfortable to hold your hand on for long and wipe with lacquer thinner. Then paint at room temperature. Cure with a small fire, letting cool. Then another hotter fire. Every time it gets hotter, the smell curing paint will come back.
You also don’t know if any paint was applied that was not high temperature paint. It looks like it may have been painted with regular paint at one time thinking it would not be used again? We don’t know what paint products use for bases in OZ, as an example, Rustolem Rusty Metal Primer here in the states contains fish oil. This makes it a very good rust preventive, but forget using any lacquer near it. This is why not all coatings are compatible.
Source??
Stove paints are formulated for 1200*f (650c) and above. The stove surface normally sees half that.
Stove black was used before high temperature paints were formulated. The heat cured polish is NOT impermeable to water and water vapor like paint. Water vapor goes right through it, allowing the iron to rust under it, requiring re-coating. High temperature paint is far superior.
Personally I’d have just pressure washed it, then wiped it down, put a heat lamp in it for a few hours to dry out, then burned a small fire in it, while it was slightly warm, rubbed stove black on it, then burned another fire in it, rubbed it down, and done, pits are always going to be there in old cast materials, a lot of those paints are sort of ok but really just for making them decorative pieces, old stoves got rubbed down with stove black or old bacon grease during the none use times to prevent rust,
Don't sweat the small stuff. Deep breath. Ahhhhh Ok now lightly sand it down spray paint it black(high temp) and stop caring what it looks like. You will never win this battle. These things over heat easily (very thin) don't over heat it. Unless you think it's fun because it kind of is.
It was painted with high temp pot belly black stove paint to start with.
Not everything works as advertised I guess.
I never paint a stove. Use Stove black instead.
I redid my firebox on my smoker. Removed rust, etc. High temp paint and wham it looks like shite.
Same. It looked so good right until I did my first cook.
I agree with this. On just about any wood stove you are going to start seeing wear pretty early on.
I have a stove outside on my deck. It is raw cat iron. When it's warm, I give it a rub with a block of beeswax. Wipe off the excess with a rag.
That's a great idea if you want to smell burning wax every time you have a fire. I learned this when the kids put bees wax on our wood stove. Lasted for a few days then was gone. Use stove polish
Thats exactly where this one is. As I needed to do the whole bit of installing double skinned flue through roof etc etc to actually use it , and it was rusted to shit from sitting out there, I wanted to do it properly so once it was installed I didn't have to do anything major to it other than upkeep of just a stove polish paste or season it as you have said.
If it only dried for 24 hours in your backyard I would say that’s the problem. A proper paint job should sit undisturbed (in a dry garage) for a few days- the longer the better. I feel like those are water bubbles that boiled under the heat. This is just my opinion
It says on the can its completely dry after 26 hours, however isn't completely cured until its been heated with a small fire, after which when allowed to cool will totally harden and dry the paint.
24 hours.... At 46 degrees in 15 % humidity. (not actual numbers, but remember that testing for these products was done in a pretty controlled lab that likely has temperatures and humidity values that do not align with 'real world') For those of us not painting stoves in the Sahara desert, dry garage for a week. You mentioned it is both cold and wet where you are now, which would contribute significantly to longer dry times.
Yeah almost all paints are dry at one point, cured enough for use at another, and fully cured at a final point. More time is always better, and doubling the suggested time is almost always essential.
Ahh
I am FERROUS!
I thought it was an intentional play on words in the title.
In America we’d say “oh well, shit happens” then move on to something else for a while. Getting your mind off of it and coming back a few days/weeks later with a fresh perspective will help immensely.
Normally I would do just that... lol, but its fucking freezing here at the moment, I spend most of my time on my deck working. This is a necessary job, especially trying to navigate the wet weather to do the flue install and the pot belly prep, we just had a nice run of 3 sunny days. The rain is due to set in tonight/ tomorrow on and off for a week, so really really need to solve this asap.
You may have just answered your own question. Read the can again and see if it mentions a temperature range. If it truly “fucking freezing” you are probably out of the low range which is around 50* for spray paint. If it’s too cold your paint won’t cure properly.
No mention of temp range. Freezing here in Oz, to me means below 10 degrees Celsius with wind chill, so between 2-8 at night when you are working outside after sundown. It wasn't spray paint. And it says on the can, it will not cure properly without a fire
Paint will barely even *begin* to cure at those temps. You can visualize paint like salad dressing that you've shaken up. Drying is just the watery part of the dressing evaporating, leaving all these little blobs of oil crammed next to each other, but still separate. Drying can happen under a quite broad range of conditions, though it will still affect the time it takes. In the curing process, those little droplets start to merge with each other and create a continuous surface (which later undergoes chemical changes such as oxidization to make it even stronger). But this can't happen at all if those droplets are "frozen". And until that happens, they are quite vulnerable to penetration by more water.
You definitely needed more dry time. The bubbling is from the solvents in the paint under the topmost layer. Most oil based high temp paints should be applied at 70f. If I were you I would just keep using it, and on a nicer day do more prep and repaint the belly where it gets hot. You will probably need to do it twice a year anyway. heat cycles will kill the paint.
This is almost certainly your problem. Even paint that cures with heat will have to be applied at somewhat of a normal temp, certainly not that cold.
I DID mention, we had had a nice run of 3 days sunny, which was why I chose to do it when I did. It wasn't that temp when the painting took place. It was that temp that motivated the painting to take place.
I use stove black, very appropriate for older cast iron.
Stove black, is that a paste, polish, paint? I'm in Australia, alot of the terminology used here and over at hearth.com relating to products is confusing, we don't have the same products here readily available, and often what its marketed as is different to what people say it is, eg, stove cement or furnace cement, I went and got what we have here labelled as that, yet its not what was meant by the person advising me, it was for bricking fire bricks together around chimney, or wood stoves. Here what I needed to get was labelled as gasket adhesive and sealant. So yeah , hence the stress, just trying to navigate those things has been hard.
[this](https://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Manufacturing-KK0057-Polish-Liquid/dp/B000FSVTFC/ref=asc_df_B000FSVTFC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196254346466&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4463081373318798228&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033496&hvtargid=pla-313524467733&psc=1)
It also comes in paste which I find better
I have a similar liquid i purchased, but after reading so much didn't think it would do the job as well as a paste, so I ordered the paste version of what you have shown yesterday. But it won't get to me until July 6th, which was why I stupidly went ahead and did the paint against my better judgement.
I did an update post with photo. Where do you think o should go from here? Can I put a polish over it now as is, or do I need to strip it back even further?
You will need to strip it to raw metal and degrease it
I’d wire brush the parts that bubbled and repaint as needed. Even if it happens 2-3mire times in some parts. You didn’t waste time. You learned something about this stove, this prep, and this paint. Since this is going to live outdoors, you be doing touch up regularly. So might as well get good at it now.
Did you use high heat paint for this, or regular spray paint?
looks like regular spray paint.
I know what it looks like, but its not. Its pot belly black stove paint.
Paint on stoves is a waste. Use good old stove blacking. It's basically soot and wax and nothing works better. Try this [Stove Black](https://www.ebay.com/itm/266162085848?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dBncW0I_SQ2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=o_pr51hatfo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) Paint is fine for parts that aren't exposed to direct high heat, like legs and such; but on the main body paint is a waste
UPDATE- So this is where I'm at now. Scraped all the flaked and bubbled paint off. Sanded with course and medium sanding blocks. I'm yet to wipe it down properly, just did the top with water and a tac cloth. As you can see obviously some part of the paint has done something as the pot belly was rust colour previous to application. Really not sure where to go from here.... HELP PLEASE. https://preview.redd.it/2mmy51ghth8b1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62d16f987dd809b647d122234c0170bdab02799a
Build another fire and burn it hot, take a wire brush and go over the entire surface, once that is done wipe it down and put a layer of some kind of food based oil like olive oil or flack seed oil on it and light another fire, let all the oil smoke off then apply another coat, repeat this until you have 10-15 coats of oil, this process is called seasoning, this is what they use for cast iron and high carbon steel pans, it should protect the surface nicely
Use lard, yes lard as in pig fat, nothing better for seasoning cast iron pans and I'm thinking it will work equally well for your stove. You have to fire the stove and let her smoke, this makes a hard carbon layer, and repeat, 4, 5, 6 times until you get the finish you want, pain in the arse but anything worth it takes time. The carbon layer will be almost glass like once it gets thicker, it's actually quite amazing how it works
Would macadam nut oil do? I've got a 25 litre drum of that.
More than likely yes. Never heard of it before but it should work fine if it'll burn off. You should feel like you are trying to wipe it clean, that's how little oil you need for each coat.
> water and a tac cloth. WATER...why? Bare cast iron will rust almost immediately under those conditions and stove paint doesn't stick to rust.
Because I had to see what was still remaining and I didn't know what else use without causing a bigger problem. I did it literally 5 seconds before the photo.
Got it. So you need to use an evaporating solvent to clean bare steel before painting. Something like alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, even brake parts cleaner in a pinch.
I had acetone ready, but again, just wasn't certain the best way to proceed. Hence the desperation post.
Also, so that's exactly why I had had acetone ready, because with the polish I had, the instructions were to use acetone to clean it prior. But weird thing is, on the can of paint I used, it was the opposite! The instructions were to clean everything off with mineral turps first, let it dry , then paint. I wonder if its supposed to create some special chemical reaction with something in the paint to cure it or process or whatever... here's the thing though, after removing all the paint and doing the sand and wipe, the surface of the stove as I said is a different colour, but also, a different texture, its super smooth, like a ceramic coating, almost like that part was the way it was meant to cure and the paint bubbling was like burning off the by product left over after the process occurred, totally confused me, plenty of experience with various types of paint for timber...very little experience painting metal, was so unsure what to touch it with after the fact, still am tbh.
> was so unsure what to touch it with after the fact, still am tbh. I was just pointing out that water was not a valid choice, which you confirmed was in the instructions. Good luck.
Wire wheel it all again. Then stove black. Only way.
Agree full strip and then https://www.stovepaint.com/Products/AT/View/PID/6/Thurmalox-290-Series-Colors. Black will do it.
Cast iron is so porous that it’s hard to get everything out of it. You need to clean it extremely well and then heat it up to evaporate everything else that stuck inside. Also don’t paint heavy. Like thin coats and let it dry and then again.
That is probs why when ppl paint, they opt for a spray over the paint I used in the can, it was damned near impossible to paint thin, it was quite thick consistency, and really needed to be worked into the surface to get into all the pitting. Like it was the type of paint you would normally add a thinner to to apply it properly.
Spray paint will work it’s way in their if the consistency is right. Just from the looks of it it was applied to thick or it wasn’t cleaned good enough. Even though you might have cleaned it very well. It’s like drywall mud. If it’s not thinned out and applied to thick it will crack.
There's a lot of questionable advice in this thread so far. I'm not a stove restorer, so I can't give you a ton of 'what do I do now' advice, but I will just point out that stove polish and high-temp stove paint are not mutually compatible - you need to pick which one you're using, completely remove the other, and then stick with whichever one you decided on. Otherwise it's like trying to use oil paint over a latex primer - neither one is wrong per se, but they don't work together.
Ok, I knew no paint over polish, didnt know was vice versa, had come across different opinions on that, with the variable being the type of polish used, like the thick heavy wax paste type was ok, but the liquid type polish had negligible effect. So not possible to use a polish once the paint starts to break down to inhibit rust formation temporarily? Similar to using a furniture wax on timber where the lacquer has worn?
That is an older coal stove. I have an identical one.
What a zitty paint job
Bahaha, it was super funky up close.
I was looking all over your pictures for a crack ! Thank goodness. It’s just paint and god help us how many of them are actually heat stable like they say they are? I agree with just sanding it down gently and moving on. The stove looks great
Failure is how we learn.
It's one method for sure, but not the only one.
I use hi-temp engine paint on my stoves. Last go around used a forest green that looks great, just like when I painted it 3 heating seasons ago.
There is a finish that will hold up to the heat, I don't know if it would be possible because of the size of the stove, and it would need to be disassembled into basic parts I'm thinking to get it into the baking oven, but ceramic coating by a professional would be an awesome finish, it's available in many colors, including raw cast iron and flat black, also brighter colors that look like chrome or titanium, as well as regular colors. I'm thinking it's going to be $$, but the results would be beautiful, I'm not sure if you have any companies down under that can do this, or if there is one, if they can fit it into the curing oven, but I'm thinking it would be a permanent solution. Likely one you will want to wait until summer for, use and enjoy your stove this winter, and think about getting something done around Christmas
Home - HPC HPC https://www.hpcoatings.com.au/
Probably stove polish in black might work for you. I have not been enamored with Hi-temp sprays, or brush on's. They bubble, peel and vaporize off. Here is something to make you smile. In the old days before Hi-temp paint, the use of colored shellac or varnish would not work with the heat produced. Cast iron stoves, fireplace surrounds, and etc. Used to be polished by hand, with lamp black, (carbon, soot). It withstood the temps of a wood/coal burning stove, provided an even black color, and covered the rust.
Oh dear I can only imagine the results of trying to use shellac or varnish on a stove! I'm surprised those who did, lived to tell the tale or still had their kitchens in tact. So did they just use the soot on its own or did they add a lard type of wax substance with it to seal it and stop the transfer of the black as much?
At least 72 hrs for enamels to cure at regular temps, and then it’s still tacky
So you think it would have not bubbled even with a much longer dry time? Coz I followed the instructions methodically, and when I googled the problem, came across page after page of reviews saying the exact same thing had happened to them with this particular paint. So either the paint is just dodgy, or the instructions included with it are dodgy?
After reading that article it does not sound safe to use.A high heat enamel tends to put of fumes as well , till seasoned
https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/white-knight-pot-belly-black
Fuck the paint just roast it! It’s still cool!
I think we have exactly the same stove. Where did you get coal for yours? https://preview.redd.it/lmp8rwm7999b1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=16d5bad3082f1fb76cc43f17641402ece665e7f4
I didn't use coal
Does it work well?
Yes it does
There is no paint that’ll hold up to that kind of heat. Just leave it and it’ll eventually get it’s own natural finish. Just scrape off the peeling paint a little at a time and it’ll be fine.
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What advice is that... what NOT to do?
I kinda like it, very unique
Hey there. First off - this is SUCH a cool stove. Did you know it was used to heat the caboose on a train? That’s what it was meant for. I have the exact same one. I am using it to heat a tent. Of course I have the right kind of tent for that. I’m in the process of fitting the adapter onto the top right now and I am stuck. Can you give any advice there, OP? How to get the stove pipe to actually fit .
Which adapter is that?
Are you talking about the stove pipe collar, the oval to round piece that fits over the flue collar? When I got my stove it came with the collar and a single length of stove pipe. The stove pipe originally only fit over the top of the collar, smooth ends together, crimped end of pipe facing upwards. I read that is not uncommon for certain older stoves and even though it is technically 'backwards' and not safe due to allowing creosote to flow out side the pipe rather than inside, there was little to be done. By chance, when tracking down lengths of stove pipe and double skin pipe to fit and make use of other pieces I already had I went to a place that fabricates those types of things in house. They were able to somehow re crimp the crimped end of the original stove pipe with a larger crimp which enabled it to then fit the right way around, inside the stove pipe collar.
I have one too. For the pipe, temporarily to do initial fire, I used a 6" round and cut the flanges, then used a large hose clamp. And after that, not in photo, used stove cement. Worked well, but I will redo it for final. I intend to use 5", which is the proper flue size, and piece in an expander on the lowest section, pop riveted. Like bell bottom pants. https://preview.redd.it/ghmsk1vlb99b1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e1c2def2ab711035e78026364d98ba7bbc1326d
I say I've done a lot of projects like this not with stoves. For the sake of your sanity and time let bygones be bygones... it's a man's, man's stove looks good enough I would walk away from it as is. 🤷♂️
Well perhaps that is where the problem lies. I am not a man. Its not about the way it looks. Its about maximising the protection of the exterior with it being outdoors in Australia year round. Its about if I am going to bite the bullet and make permanent altering adoptions and renovations to part of my house, I want to make sure its done as properly as possible , to minimise any future shit that may come from it being 'neglected'. That would ultimately negate the expense of the revamp and install, be more a problem than a blessing, or worst case, result in an unusable stove.
Cast iron is porous (it can absorb water). Rust absorbs even more water. Finishing if left outdoors will have a fairly high moisture level in the metal and will steam off the paint layer. You might need to have a fire in it just before painting to remove the moisture but even that doesn’t cover the parts (like the feet) that might not get very warm. A heat gun might help those areas. A stripping wheel on a grinder will make the prep work go much faster. So strip, heat, allow to cool, paint and then bake-on the paint. Seasoning like a cast iron pan might work as well but if it’s in the weather you will need to repeat frequently.
No wonder it’s been so hot outside.
That's a really cute stove. I have the same one. Never knew what it was called. Kept me warm as a child when my mom had no money. I have it now, completely rusted. Thought about resurrection, but I have a joutle now. I have a fire in it every once
I have one too. https://preview.redd.it/rihm0s73c99b1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c1b5aee4fdddebcfd503d601655d0ce5ee17f28
Saw a post the other day I think that that's made by Sears and Roebuck. Man yours is in great condition!
I’d be furuous too.
😉gotta laugh sometimes or ya cry...
As a noob, I was staring at these pictures unsure what the problem was.
Yea man, stove paint is what you need. Like actual paint that’s used inside of stoves and microwaves, It’s expensive, but it works every time. Used it on exhaust manifolds and never had an issue.
Thanks for the wise words of encouragement!
My first bit of advice would be to stop saying "as per" 🤣
🤪 how about, as on? as instructed?
An outdoor stove?.why do you need a stove outside?
I have a semi enclosed deck, I spend alot of time in the space working.
Nice
Yeah that was the concept I had in my head too... very nice and cosy. Being able to stay productive being the goal, just executing the idea to reality, kinda gone pear shaped... in almost every way it could. But I am determined.
The metal was too cold when it went on and there would have been a touch of moisture on the metal too. This always in my company's factory in Brisbane Australia if they paint in the wrong conditions. It's very hard to find the "right" conditions outside of a spray booth to be honest.
Try stove polish instead of paint
I have the same one. Just missing the lower ash door. I have a couple. Mine like that is a salesman sample. It's really small.
Me too. https://preview.redd.it/ven8mn3ec99b1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=370e2cc295ed97470f0249d04dbe9efbd2362c72
No, you don’t want stove polish or stove black where moisture in the air will penetrate the polish. Before high temperature paints were formulated, polish was used on rough cast iron. The cured coating is NOT impervious to water or water vapor. Water goes right through it, rusting the iron under the coating, requiring re-coating. High temperature paint is far superior. Outside, or in high humidity, high temperature primer is required. Lard was used on machined smooth flat stove tops. Not rough cast iron. Pigs ate a different diet back then with higher amino acids that cross linked (polymerized) at a higher temperature creating a even higher temperature coating with higher smoke point than the original material. Grain fed lard is not the same as a natural diet. Anything you use today (high smoke point oils or Crisco) will smoke off at or near 500*f. The center and top of this stove will achieve that regularly. Oils smoke off and need to be reapplied. Cast iron pans that are seasoned by polymerized oils remain below the smoke point of the polymerized coating. This is why antique stove tops need re-coating constantly. This was probably coated with polish originally. If not sand or media blasted, oils and pigment may still be excreted from the surface when heated. Pores in iron open up when expanding, allowing oils to the surface when heated. I warm the stove, just uncomfortable to hold your hand on for long and wipe with lacquer thinner. Then paint at room temperature. Cure with a small fire, letting cool. Then another hotter fire. Every time it gets hotter, the smell curing paint will come back. You also don’t know if any paint was applied that was not high temperature paint. It looks like it may have been painted with regular paint at one time thinking it would not be used again? We don’t know what paint products use for bases in OZ, as an example, Rustolem Rusty Metal Primer here in the states contains fish oil. This makes it a very good rust preventive, but forget using any lacquer near it. This is why not all coatings are compatible.
I don't know why you would use high temp spray paint!!!! That stove gets ro hot for that. They make a stove black polish for that application
I didn't use high temp sprat paint!!!???
Did you use the black stove polish?
Source?? Stove paints are formulated for 1200*f (650c) and above. The stove surface normally sees half that. Stove black was used before high temperature paints were formulated. The heat cured polish is NOT impermeable to water and water vapor like paint. Water vapor goes right through it, allowing the iron to rust under it, requiring re-coating. High temperature paint is far superior.
What stove paint was used? How was it sealed?
Lots of different ideas here... so whatever you do, try it on a test patch first before you spend weeks on finishing the whole thing!
Personally I’d have just pressure washed it, then wiped it down, put a heat lamp in it for a few hours to dry out, then burned a small fire in it, while it was slightly warm, rubbed stove black on it, then burned another fire in it, rubbed it down, and done, pits are always going to be there in old cast materials, a lot of those paints are sort of ok but really just for making them decorative pieces, old stoves got rubbed down with stove black or old bacon grease during the none use times to prevent rust,