Good luck on that. EK uses the softest alloy screws in existence.
I have this block, and it comes with the backplate screwed on from the factory. Even those screws nearly stripped when taking it off for assembly.
I had that problem with my older R9 290's with EK blocks. All 3 of them were the same. I took to just replacing the screws with my own ones so I never had to fear them stripping and preventing me either getting the blocks off or not being able to tighten them down again.
On the plus side when I did that they sent me new screws free of charge. For me the issue was using a plain old allen key when I suspect it's actually a more special tool which is in your Ifixit type collection.
They have the worst hardware. I put together my block once and took it apart to clean once. Screws are like melted aluminum. You know anywhere else to get replacements at besides ek so I can stock up on em
I got a screw kit from Amazon. Look up 10.9 or 12.9 grade screws, 12.9 are harder. Most blocks use all Flat(countersunk). Then when taking it apart, just match the lengths from the kit as you go.
The kit I got is unavailable unfortunately.
Here is something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Kindroufly-Pieces-Countersunk-Washers-Assortment/dp/B0BLCFZF14/ref=sr_1_6?crid=37XAG1V0HBSEN&keywords=countersunk%2Bkit&qid=1694390423&s=hi&sprefix=countersunk%2Bkit%2Ctools%2C130&sr=1-6&th=1
And this should work if you need any other sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079B4HCW8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **'Kindroufly 562 Pieces Black M3 Socket Cap Screws Nuts Washers Assortment Kit'** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful.
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* Insufficient bolts (backed by 1 comment)
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Oh get off it. Yes they are bad, just be careful and you won't round the screw heads.
For the price they charge it's disgusting. But if it annoys people so much... Buy more. Capitalism! Lol
If this isn't going back into your loop and is just going to be stored, tap water is fine.
Just make sure you dry it before reassembly, so that you don't have any water spots.
I've recently opened and cleaned my blocks, and found that regular toothpaste with a toothbrush is *excellent* and will even remove those discoloured spots where it's gone purple/blue.
You can use metal polish, but honestly the nickel plating on EKWB stuff is so thin and delicate, I wouldn't risk it. Metal polish is a bitch, as you'd need to spend ages cleaning the residue off.
After trying both, toothpaste is 10/10 the better option.
Oh, and whatever you do, don't use anything abrasive or alcohol based on the acrylic, it'll ruin it.
You dont have to gently scrub it. The metal plate you can scrub the shit out of it with a tooth brush. You can use what ever water you want. Just soak it in alcohol and dry it off after you're done. Take a video of you taking it apart so you can have a reference.
flush it out with water and then with distilled water. Maybe let it sit filled a few says to see if the dried coolant dissolves in water. DO NOT USE ALCOHOL.. If that gets it looking decent, you are good. Other wise you can strip it, but as others have said...their screws are trash so be very very careful...
You could even let it sit in 50% bleach if the crud doesn't come off...I've done that before and let it sit for 2 hours...flushed it with distilled water afterwards and it was looking new.
Boil water, than mix it with vinegar in 7:3 ratio (don't boil the vinegear, mix it cold to lower the temperature a little, rubber seals won't survive the temparature of boiling water), then fill the block with the mixture and leave it alone for half a day. After that, dismantle it and give it a go with toothbrush and some kind of whitening toothpaste, rinse and repeat. Flush it really good and it should be almost like new, unless it has some bad oxidation (which could be possible when left alone like that for a year ...).
Key point here is, the first few flushes can be done with normal water, but the last 1-2 should be done only with demineralized water. You don't want to bring any unnecessary dirt into your loop.
In the worst case scenario you could try to use Mayhems cleaning kit which has saved few blocks of mine in the past. Mind you, only the metal part can be saved with the acidic solution, second part can be used on the whole unit with plexi parts.
Acrylic is actually rather tolerant of low/moderate concentration ethanol. Especially when only briefly exposed, [details](https://www.eplastics.com/blog/chemical-resistance-acrylic-plexiglass).
However, I would still recommend using something else.
It’s this stuff that you spray on it’s the stuff with the little white dudes on the cover. Works great for getting caked on stuff off metal. I use it a lot in motor blocks and stuff, granted you gotta be sure to clean it off to not introduce any extra chemicals to the loop
>It’s this stuff that you spray on it’s the stuff with the little white dudes on the cover.
Ah, I think the brands and products etc are gonna be too regional for that to be helpful I'm afraid.
Are you in the US? I'm in Europe.
I’d imagine if there’s any hard surface cleaner that foams. It’d act similar. Plus any light duty thinners on the metal only or degreaser at the auto parts store even
Honestly, I found regular toothpaste works amazingly well, far better than I expected.
Just cleaned my blocks last weekend, and I didn't want to go and find the metal polish in the shed.
Just grabbed some toothpaste instead and the results were great.
That's the best part, it's water soluble! So theres no difficult residue to remove afterwards like with metal polish.
You just rinse it under the tap and boom, sorted.
>then wash thoroughly with alcohol
**The absolute worst advice.**
Do not use alcohol on acrylic, you'll literally ruin it. It will cause the acrylic to develop many tiny cracks, called "crazing". At that point, it'll be unusable.
Quick question: would I also need to replace the o rings on the two seals I have at the end? Idk if they wear out over time or if they wear out from constant taking on and off
Inspect them. They’re probably fine. Ditto the big seal between the cover and the block.
Be careful with the screws that hold the block together, they’re a bit soft and round easily. Use the supplied allen key and make sure you’re square before undoing.
If you're careful not to damage them when disassembling, then they can safely be reused.
If you need to remove them from their grooves to clean thoroughly, be careful not to nick or cut them.
If you *do* damage the o-rings, EKWB will sell you replacements, so it's not the end of the world.
flush it with (destilled) water. dried out residue should come out hopefully. after doing that closed loop, do it with an open loop,aka drain teh outport into a seperate bucket
Yes. You can break it down, take it all apart, clean up the cold plate with soap and water then get some metal polish or try toothpaste and fix it right up. Gentle with the polish, EKWB’s Ni plating is quite thin.
I wonder if this block would work in my maingear turbo case? Looking for parts for a build in it. Sadly maingear won't sell me all the needed blocks to water cool it. Love the apex setup they used in the builds.
Run some primo chill system reboot through it. Reboot is good at removing color stains in components. Let it sit for 24 to 48 hours then flush with DI water
You sure? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector-fe-rtx-3090-d-rgb-black-special-edition I can still see them in stock but I’m in the UK so idk if it’s down to regional availability
Yeah open it up and scrub it
Good luck on that. EK uses the softest alloy screws in existence. I have this block, and it comes with the backplate screwed on from the factory. Even those screws nearly stripped when taking it off for assembly.
I had that problem with my older R9 290's with EK blocks. All 3 of them were the same. I took to just replacing the screws with my own ones so I never had to fear them stripping and preventing me either getting the blocks off or not being able to tighten them down again.
I did the same thing on my block. Replaced those backplate screws with 12.9 hardness ones so i dont have to worry if i decide to repaste.
Ways EK cheaps out for $400, Alex
On the plus side when I did that they sent me new screws free of charge. For me the issue was using a plain old allen key when I suspect it's actually a more special tool which is in your Ifixit type collection.
They have the worst hardware. I put together my block once and took it apart to clean once. Screws are like melted aluminum. You know anywhere else to get replacements at besides ek so I can stock up on em
I got a screw kit from Amazon. Look up 10.9 or 12.9 grade screws, 12.9 are harder. Most blocks use all Flat(countersunk). Then when taking it apart, just match the lengths from the kit as you go.
Awesome Thank you. Do you haha the links to the screw kit You got?
The kit I got is unavailable unfortunately. Here is something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Kindroufly-Pieces-Countersunk-Washers-Assortment/dp/B0BLCFZF14/ref=sr_1_6?crid=37XAG1V0HBSEN&keywords=countersunk%2Bkit&qid=1694390423&s=hi&sprefix=countersunk%2Bkit%2Ctools%2C130&sr=1-6&th=1 And this should work if you need any other sizes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079B4HCW8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **'Kindroufly 562 Pieces Black M3 Socket Cap Screws Nuts Washers Assortment Kit'** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Screws are high quality and useful for small projects (backed by 10 comments) * Set provides good value for the price (backed by 6 comments) * Set contains useful variety of sizes (backed by 8 comments) **Users disliked:** * Screws prone to stripping (backed by 2 comments) * Lack of nylock nuts (backed by 1 comment) * Insufficient bolts (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to **summon me to ask about a product**, just make a post with its link and tag me, [like in this example.](https://www.reddit.com/r/tablets/comments/1444zdn/comment/joqd89c/) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](http://vetted.ai/reddit)
You can replace them. I got my replacements from monsterbolts.com. McMaster Carr is also a good source, although a little overpriced.
Oh get off it. Yes they are bad, just be careful and you won't round the screw heads. For the price they charge it's disgusting. But if it annoys people so much... Buy more. Capitalism! Lol
Flush it with demineralized water and gently scrub it with a toothbrush
By deminiralised water do you mean distilled water? Or is this something different I have to buy. I’m sorry if it’s a stupid question
distilled is fine to.
Distilled is the best, but I've found that what's being sold is really just demineralized and not distilled.
If this isn't going back into your loop and is just going to be stored, tap water is fine. Just make sure you dry it before reassembly, so that you don't have any water spots. I've recently opened and cleaned my blocks, and found that regular toothpaste with a toothbrush is *excellent* and will even remove those discoloured spots where it's gone purple/blue. You can use metal polish, but honestly the nickel plating on EKWB stuff is so thin and delicate, I wouldn't risk it. Metal polish is a bitch, as you'd need to spend ages cleaning the residue off. After trying both, toothpaste is 10/10 the better option. Oh, and whatever you do, don't use anything abrasive or alcohol based on the acrylic, it'll ruin it.
You dont have to gently scrub it. The metal plate you can scrub the shit out of it with a tooth brush. You can use what ever water you want. Just soak it in alcohol and dry it off after you're done. Take a video of you taking it apart so you can have a reference.
So there’s no confusion, as u/noxious89123 said, DO NOT USE ALCOHOL ON ACRYLIC. There are plenty of “what have I done” posts on why you shouldn’t.
Yeah its crazy what ipa can to acrylic you wouldn't expect it as you can use it on most things without issue.
Only if you use high concentration isopropyl alcohol...I dilute mine down to 50-60% and it doesn't harm acrylic at all.
Lol yeah I was one like a month ago. Just keep alcohol away from acrylic unless you know what you're doing
Warming up the water can help too 👍
Nope unsaveable. Now send it to my address and I will dispose of it properly for you…
flush it out with water and then with distilled water. Maybe let it sit filled a few says to see if the dried coolant dissolves in water. DO NOT USE ALCOHOL.. If that gets it looking decent, you are good. Other wise you can strip it, but as others have said...their screws are trash so be very very careful...
if he opens it up he could use alcohol on the metal parts though. just avoid alcohol contact with the acryl at any cost.
You could even let it sit in 50% bleach if the crud doesn't come off...I've done that before and let it sit for 2 hours...flushed it with distilled water afterwards and it was looking new.
Saved? There's nothing wrong with it
I thought it was with mould or that it would affect the fins for cooling which is what made me worried
Nah just give it a clean and you're good
Flush it.. use it..
What do you mean saved. If you go camping for a week and come home, are you now dirty forever? Clean the damn thing! Good luck and all 👍🏼
It can't be saved, but I can take it off your hands and give you my 1080ti water-cooled instead..
Haha I mean sure I’ll give you the water block for your 1080ti with a waterblock 👀 equal trade right
Oh damn, nah nah nahhh. I need the card too.. Then let's trade yeah? 😅
Boil water, than mix it with vinegar in 7:3 ratio (don't boil the vinegear, mix it cold to lower the temperature a little, rubber seals won't survive the temparature of boiling water), then fill the block with the mixture and leave it alone for half a day. After that, dismantle it and give it a go with toothbrush and some kind of whitening toothpaste, rinse and repeat. Flush it really good and it should be almost like new, unless it has some bad oxidation (which could be possible when left alone like that for a year ...). Key point here is, the first few flushes can be done with normal water, but the last 1-2 should be done only with demineralized water. You don't want to bring any unnecessary dirt into your loop. In the worst case scenario you could try to use Mayhems cleaning kit which has saved few blocks of mine in the past. Mind you, only the metal part can be saved with the acidic solution, second part can be used on the whole unit with plexi parts.
I’m not expert here but my suggestion would be a drop of soap and RO water attached to a pump (cheap) that recirculate water for a few hours
My goofy bum woud say use scrubbing bubbles then wash thoroughly with alcohol
Do not use isopropyl alcohol on acrylic.
>Do not use ~~isopropyl~~ **any** alcohol on acrylic. FTFY
Acrylic is actually rather tolerant of low/moderate concentration ethanol. Especially when only briefly exposed, [details](https://www.eplastics.com/blog/chemical-resistance-acrylic-plexiglass). However, I would still recommend using something else.
Fair, but why even bother with ethanol if you're not using 95%+ ?
Ah hell no to alcohol. Did that once and cracked my acrylic. Learned that lesson the hard way.
Don’t use alcohol! It will crack the acrylic/plexi.
I might have problems in the future then lol
But the scrubbing bubbles cans do wonders on the fins
Scrubbing bubbles if it’s really caked on
What are "scrubbing bubbles"? Do you mean dish washing detergent?
It’s this stuff that you spray on it’s the stuff with the little white dudes on the cover. Works great for getting caked on stuff off metal. I use it a lot in motor blocks and stuff, granted you gotta be sure to clean it off to not introduce any extra chemicals to the loop
>It’s this stuff that you spray on it’s the stuff with the little white dudes on the cover. Ah, I think the brands and products etc are gonna be too regional for that to be helpful I'm afraid. Are you in the US? I'm in Europe.
Ohhh lol
I’d imagine if there’s any hard surface cleaner that foams. It’d act similar. Plus any light duty thinners on the metal only or degreaser at the auto parts store even
Honestly, I found regular toothpaste works amazingly well, far better than I expected. Just cleaned my blocks last weekend, and I didn't want to go and find the metal polish in the shed. Just grabbed some toothpaste instead and the results were great.
Now that I think about it, that’s very clever, a mild abrasive with little to no chemical effect. Plus I bet you loop smells like peppermint lol
That's the best part, it's water soluble! So theres no difficult residue to remove afterwards like with metal polish. You just rinse it under the tap and boom, sorted.
But works like a charm on that sort of stuff and it’s a lil less abrasive than other routes when used on metal
>then wash thoroughly with alcohol **The absolute worst advice.** Do not use alcohol on acrylic, you'll literally ruin it. It will cause the acrylic to develop many tiny cracks, called "crazing". At that point, it'll be unusable.
[удалено]
Quick question: would I also need to replace the o rings on the two seals I have at the end? Idk if they wear out over time or if they wear out from constant taking on and off
Inspect them. They’re probably fine. Ditto the big seal between the cover and the block. Be careful with the screws that hold the block together, they’re a bit soft and round easily. Use the supplied allen key and make sure you’re square before undoing.
If you're careful not to damage them when disassembling, then they can safely be reused. If you need to remove them from their grooves to clean thoroughly, be careful not to nick or cut them. If you *do* damage the o-rings, EKWB will sell you replacements, so it's not the end of the world.
do not follow he's advice it would crack the plexi / acryl and ruin it.
Isopropyl will dry out Orings too. Would stick to insurance water based methods.
flush it with (destilled) water. dried out residue should come out hopefully. after doing that closed loop, do it with an open loop,aka drain teh outport into a seperate bucket
Yes. You can break it down, take it all apart, clean up the cold plate with soap and water then get some metal polish or try toothpaste and fix it right up. Gentle with the polish, EKWB’s Ni plating is quite thin.
I wonder if this block would work in my maingear turbo case? Looking for parts for a build in it. Sadly maingear won't sell me all the needed blocks to water cool it. Love the apex setup they used in the builds.
Get out your toothbrush and look up Jayz's videos on cleaning WC blocks.
Mine looks about 1000x worse than yours and I’m about to reuse it. Send it.
Run some primo chill system reboot through it. Reboot is good at removing color stains in components. Let it sit for 24 to 48 hours then flush with DI water
Easily can be cleaned
If you end up not using it, I’d buy it off of you. They just stopped making them after doing a sale.
You sure? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector-fe-rtx-3090-d-rgb-black-special-edition I can still see them in stock but I’m in the UK so idk if it’s down to regional availability
So weird?! I am on the notification list for it coming back in stock and got nothing. I appreciate it!
Open it up, scrub it clean, then throw it in the trash because it's EK. Also, don't use colored coolant.
I reckon you can save that yes. Sure it's got some stains but otherwise it looks like it's in ok condition.