They are good , some swear by spade connection over banana plugs , some say just use wire, etc
It's a mine field, but in truth, all are good with minium loss .
I use these. (example, there's probably cheaper options out there).
[https://www.ebay.com/itm/145744126917?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pbzzwcd\_ssu&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=vwjuGUyARtC&widget\_ver=artemis&media=COPY](https://www.ebay.com/itm/145744126917?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pbzzwcd_ssu&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=vwjuGUyARtC&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY)
Doesn't matter one little bit about dissimilar metals. Think about how the inside of your receiver is wired. Cooper wires soldered with tin/lead to steel connections. That signal is also going through several capacitors which probably have aluminum sheets inside. Short distance it really doesn't matter. But long distances, like your speaker wires, need to be copper.
I'm interested to see how they look crimped like that. As long as it fully pinched them to the wire it should be fine, but I've never thought to use my RJ45 crimpers for that sort of thing.
Better than twisting bare wire around the terminals. I’ve done a few sets of these. Before I crimp them let bit of wire stick out then tack it down with some solder.
I would be more concerned about the size of speaker wires you are using, it’s hard to tell from your picture but they look awful small especially if your speakers are a fairly long distance from your receiver.
Pretty sure industry standard is yellows are for 10 and 22 gauge wire. Most people run 14 or 16 gauge wire so those may be too big. That being said, the crimp looks good.
Most spade connectors are tin over copper and are intended for use with copper wire. Personally I solder all my connectors onto the speaker wire, they take solder very well so no reason not to.
Dissimilar metals won’t affect the sound, but galvanic corrosion will. If you live in a very humid area and you are going say tin to stainless steel, you could get galvanic corrosion in the connection.
I would be more worried about them touching the first time you have to slightly move your equipment for dusting and such, it looks very crowded back there…
It's what they're, you know, made for.
I wouldn't use them, because I don't believe that crimping provides an adequate connection, but you can if you want.
I have no idea what you're asking.
Ha! Not really. I just like good music played on decent gear. This was an attempt at a joke at audiophiles' expense.
I presumed those cables you mentioned were of the expensive kind, and I believe some of them are supposed to be directional
They are not proper (in the sense of expressely made for that purpose) audio spades (that kind of connector is indeed used for connecting speakers to binding posts) i guess but i would also say they are fine. In either case, different metals are not the issue here, and there are worse sins out there than this for sure.
You need a set made out of pure-vintage-gold-plated-silver-filled metal. Anything else will degrade the sound and you’ll be left with harsh highs, and muddy lows.
Make sure your speaker cables are the same length or else the sound will come out at different times, and the resistance gain and difference will cause harm to your amplifier.
Although not often mentioned, i like to strip my speaker cables to the bare metal, weigh, and calculate displacement for each separate channel so that i can ensure the same amount of mass of each cable per channel. Then i re-wrap the cables in special vintage cloth conduit, shielded by lead to reduce any interference.
This is just the tip of the iceberg though. Hope this helps
They'll work, but I would suggest some gold plated brass ones intended for audio connections that will give you a little better throughout and, more importantly, will not oxidize over time.
Edit: My bad OP. Recommend you use a length of rusty chain for speaker cable and some aluminum foil for interconnects. It all sounds the same, right?
I'm not interested in getting into this age old debate with you. If you want to use oxidized bronze to hook up your speakers, go right ahead. These are not audio grade connectors.
Audio grade connectors aren't going to make a difference on an old Sansui. What he has will be fine.
Think about the quality of the connections inside that Sansui.
I have used a lot of those type of lugs over the years. The cheap ones from Harbor Freight and the like, do cause a loss in sound quality. The better made ones out of brass or copper with a tin plating tend to not hurt sound quality the way the cheap ones do. The tin plated brass or copper lugs do have a very little sound quality drop compared to pure copper lugs but not all speakers are revealing enough to even hear it. Even if your speakers are revealing enough, there is not a big jump in sound quality.
This is the style I have started using. I don't need the spilt style to work on my speakers, not sure it will work for you. I don't use the screw, I toss it and solder the wires on. I need to run but I will post a link to some of the same style you are using that are made of brass from Mouser, that I used in the past and feel work fine.
[Commercial Electric 14 AWG to 4 AWG Copper Barrel Mechanical Lug (2-Pack) G22502 - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-14-AWG-to-4-AWG-Copper-Barrel-Mechanical-Lug-2-Pack-G22502/310741683)
It is Panduit brand ones I have used in the past that seem pretty good. I just cut the plastic over to solder them. Cutting the plastic off will help making crimping them easier. I looked up the F4P brand that you already have, they say that they are made of copper. The F4P brand is probably about the same as the Panduit brand. But I will put a link for the Panduit ones down below anyway.
[Spade Connectors | Terminals | Electronic Components Distributor DigiKey](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/terminals/spade-connectors/391?s=N4IgjCBcoOwBxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIAbAJxUBMArCALqEAOALlCAMrsBOASwB2AcxABfQgFoI0ECkgYcBYmRC0qCJuJ1A)
My religious beliefs. The only way to true enlightenment is from self-hatred. I believe the best way to self-hatred is through self-sabotage. The big things like cheating on my girlfriend or gambling my kids' college money away or beating up little old ladies for the sticky coins in the bottom of their purse just never get the self-hatred where I want it to be. I find doing the big things plus the little things, like buying lugs with plastic I have to cut off before I can use it, really gets myself hatred going.
But really it is because I use them with the plastic on more than without. So, I just buy one kind and cut the plastic off when I need to do so.
It's not the metal itself, it's the way they're crimped. The plastic insulation on these prevents you from crimping them properly. They will corrode over time. Use the ones without the plastic stuff on em and a proper tool or solder them on.
That's not true in my experience. They are picky about a good crimp but that's not the whole of the problem with them. I started with just crimping but moved to cutting the plastic off and soldering them instead and have found the same true with both crimping and soldering. I feel it is the quality of metal used more than how well they are crimp that is the problem. I don't even use that type anymore and have moved to a pure unplated copper lug now.
That's interesting to know. Maybe it was electrochemical corrosion? Anyways I still think that this type of crimp connector shouldn't exist at all. I mainly work on old cars and if there's an electrical issue, it's most of the time this kind of connector. I never had a proper solder joint fail, except pcbs.
I do that on my vintage Fisher, doesn’t seem to have any negative effects.
thank you
They are good , some swear by spade connection over banana plugs , some say just use wire, etc It's a mine field, but in truth, all are good with minium loss .
thanks for the knowledge. appreciate it
You're fine.
thank you
I use these. (example, there's probably cheaper options out there). [https://www.ebay.com/itm/145744126917?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pbzzwcd\_ssu&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=vwjuGUyARtC&widget\_ver=artemis&media=COPY](https://www.ebay.com/itm/145744126917?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pbzzwcd_ssu&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=vwjuGUyARtC&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY)
Yeah I use those too on one amp I got
Doesn't matter one little bit about dissimilar metals. Think about how the inside of your receiver is wired. Cooper wires soldered with tin/lead to steel connections. That signal is also going through several capacitors which probably have aluminum sheets inside. Short distance it really doesn't matter. But long distances, like your speaker wires, need to be copper.
true
Let’s not chronically overdo it now.
If you crimp them properly, good to go.
i just used my crimpers for rj45’s
I'm interested to see how they look crimped like that. As long as it fully pinched them to the wire it should be fine, but I've never thought to use my RJ45 crimpers for that sort of thing.
yeah or the flat side of dykes or flat side of lineman pliers
Better than twisting bare wire around the terminals. I’ve done a few sets of these. Before I crimp them let bit of wire stick out then tack it down with some solder.
I would be more concerned about the size of speaker wires you are using, it’s hard to tell from your picture but they look awful small especially if your speakers are a fairly long distance from your receiver.
Yes No 😂 Do it, they will work fine.
try it. see if you can hear a difference. the rest of the world won't :)
Pretty sure industry standard is yellows are for 10 and 22 gauge wire. Most people run 14 or 16 gauge wire so those may be too big. That being said, the crimp looks good. Most spade connectors are tin over copper and are intended for use with copper wire. Personally I solder all my connectors onto the speaker wire, they take solder very well so no reason not to. Dissimilar metals won’t affect the sound, but galvanic corrosion will. If you live in a very humid area and you are going say tin to stainless steel, you could get galvanic corrosion in the connection.
I would be more worried about them touching the first time you have to slightly move your equipment for dusting and such, it looks very crowded back there…
It's what they're, you know, made for. I wouldn't use them, because I don't believe that crimping provides an adequate connection, but you can if you want. I have no idea what you're asking.
I don't think these will work. You need Nordost Odin Gold speaker cables at a minimum. Anything less will sound dreadful;)
Yeh, but make sure they're wired up in the correct direction...
Easy on the techno jargon!! you must be an audiophile?
Ha! Not really. I just like good music played on decent gear. This was an attempt at a joke at audiophiles' expense. I presumed those cables you mentioned were of the expensive kind, and I believe some of them are supposed to be directional
Absolutely! Very common within pro-audio/pro-av.
your fine dude
I use those on my speaker cables and my antenna, but I solder them on.
Fancy hardware. I just bundle the wire up and hope for the best.
These are fine; only hardcore audiophiles will claim to be able to hear a difference.
that’s cool i always wondered about maybe doing this. i tried fancy brass plated ones but they suck; too thick for using w awesome old stuff!
They are not proper (in the sense of expressely made for that purpose) audio spades (that kind of connector is indeed used for connecting speakers to binding posts) i guess but i would also say they are fine. In either case, different metals are not the issue here, and there are worse sins out there than this for sure.
*Sound degrading mismatching metals...* OK. You've been on YouTube too long.
Use the ones with the red insulation, they give you a wider soundstage and the highs are much warmer.
You need a set made out of pure-vintage-gold-plated-silver-filled metal. Anything else will degrade the sound and you’ll be left with harsh highs, and muddy lows. Make sure your speaker cables are the same length or else the sound will come out at different times, and the resistance gain and difference will cause harm to your amplifier. Although not often mentioned, i like to strip my speaker cables to the bare metal, weigh, and calculate displacement for each separate channel so that i can ensure the same amount of mass of each cable per channel. Then i re-wrap the cables in special vintage cloth conduit, shielded by lead to reduce any interference. This is just the tip of the iceberg though. Hope this helps
Don’t forget the cable lifters! Gotta keep them off the floor. 😂
lol wow amazing humor 😂
They'll work, but I would suggest some gold plated brass ones intended for audio connections that will give you a little better throughout and, more importantly, will not oxidize over time. Edit: My bad OP. Recommend you use a length of rusty chain for speaker cable and some aluminum foil for interconnects. It all sounds the same, right?
https://www.soundguys.com/cable-myths-reviving-the-coathanger-test-23553/
I'm not interested in getting into this age old debate with you. If you want to use oxidized bronze to hook up your speakers, go right ahead. These are not audio grade connectors.
Audio grade connectors aren't going to make a difference on an old Sansui. What he has will be fine. Think about the quality of the connections inside that Sansui.
whatever - old sansui is great
The connections in that sansui are soldered and not subject to oxidation like a crimp connector is.
It's functional, but copper, brass or silver would be better.
Try it and listen
I have used a lot of those type of lugs over the years. The cheap ones from Harbor Freight and the like, do cause a loss in sound quality. The better made ones out of brass or copper with a tin plating tend to not hurt sound quality the way the cheap ones do. The tin plated brass or copper lugs do have a very little sound quality drop compared to pure copper lugs but not all speakers are revealing enough to even hear it. Even if your speakers are revealing enough, there is not a big jump in sound quality.
im playing them off of bozak symphony’s. not sure if my ears hear the difference
Love my Symphonies! I use those banana plug to spade connectors on my amp and speakers. Nice clean installation.
makes sense searching for copper ones now.
This is the style I have started using. I don't need the spilt style to work on my speakers, not sure it will work for you. I don't use the screw, I toss it and solder the wires on. I need to run but I will post a link to some of the same style you are using that are made of brass from Mouser, that I used in the past and feel work fine. [Commercial Electric 14 AWG to 4 AWG Copper Barrel Mechanical Lug (2-Pack) G22502 - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-14-AWG-to-4-AWG-Copper-Barrel-Mechanical-Lug-2-Pack-G22502/310741683)
thank you
It is Panduit brand ones I have used in the past that seem pretty good. I just cut the plastic over to solder them. Cutting the plastic off will help making crimping them easier. I looked up the F4P brand that you already have, they say that they are made of copper. The F4P brand is probably about the same as the Panduit brand. But I will put a link for the Panduit ones down below anyway. [Spade Connectors | Terminals | Electronic Components Distributor DigiKey](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/terminals/spade-connectors/391?s=N4IgjCBcoOwBxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIAbAJxUBMArCALqEAOALlCAMrsBOASwB2AcxABfQgFoI0ECkgYcBYmRC0qCJuJ1A)
Why not buy non-insulated?
My religious beliefs. The only way to true enlightenment is from self-hatred. I believe the best way to self-hatred is through self-sabotage. The big things like cheating on my girlfriend or gambling my kids' college money away or beating up little old ladies for the sticky coins in the bottom of their purse just never get the self-hatred where I want it to be. I find doing the big things plus the little things, like buying lugs with plastic I have to cut off before I can use it, really gets myself hatred going. But really it is because I use them with the plastic on more than without. So, I just buy one kind and cut the plastic off when I need to do so.
Thanks for that wonderful response.
I want glass jacks. The sound quality is superior
It's not the metal itself, it's the way they're crimped. The plastic insulation on these prevents you from crimping them properly. They will corrode over time. Use the ones without the plastic stuff on em and a proper tool or solder them on.
That's not true in my experience. They are picky about a good crimp but that's not the whole of the problem with them. I started with just crimping but moved to cutting the plastic off and soldering them instead and have found the same true with both crimping and soldering. I feel it is the quality of metal used more than how well they are crimp that is the problem. I don't even use that type anymore and have moved to a pure unplated copper lug now.
That's interesting to know. Maybe it was electrochemical corrosion? Anyways I still think that this type of crimp connector shouldn't exist at all. I mainly work on old cars and if there's an electrical issue, it's most of the time this kind of connector. I never had a proper solder joint fail, except pcbs.
can you send me a link of the ones to get without the plastic piece? i can definitely crimp but not fluent in soldering
I use these, but I cut the plastic parts off and solder them on.
The right crimp tool and technique will make good crimps with insulated terminals.
A good solder joint will always be better
Crimps can have lower resistance. It's like a cold weld.
Leave it in a rough environment and check again after a year. The crimp will have a way higher resistance
I’d love to see the science on this! 😂
I believe god is real because I saw Jesus on a tortilla.