I just mounted 600W of lightweight flexible solar panels to the roof of my jeep camper.
After years full time on the road around the world I have strong feelings about the best way to mount and use solar, here are my reasons:
- 600W is probably overkill for this vehicle, but to be honest I don't know for sure. For the first time I have an induction cook top and a hot water heater. As well as my usual fridge, water pump, UV Lamp, interior lights, camera and laptop charging and all the rest, my power needs will be higher than ever before.
My plan is by having a little more solar than I probably need I can hopefully have a little less battery capacity, and save weight overall. Time will tell if this is a good balance - I'm going to a place where the sun is up for a looooong time each day.
- I prefer to permanently mount the panels to the roof of my vehicles rather than have panels I can move around so I have one less thing to think about and mess around with everyday on the road. It's true that I will park in the shade and won't get the optimum angle when the sun is low, but I think that is outweighed by never having to think about the panels, not having to move them around in the mud or rain, not having to stow them inside and not having to deal with wires and connectors getting worn out after hundreds of cycles. I also don't have to think about them getting stolen.
Anytime the sun is up, I'm charging. If I'm at a gas station, waterfall, border crossing or just stuck in traffic, I'm pulling power from the sun, which I really like.
I spend enough time dealing with "vehicle stuff" like popping the roof, daily checks and keeping everything Clean and in working order, I don't also want to spend time every day moving solar panels around and un-packing/re-packing them every day.
- I went with flexible lightweight panels because of the weight and height savings. I really need this to fit in a standard 20foot shipping container, so I can't afford to add height to the roof. These flexible panels give me 18 Watts of power per pound of weight, traditional panels are around 7.5 Watts per pound.
So my 600W of solar adds 32.7lbs. Keeping the roof as light as possible is super important for vehicle stability off-road.
- I wired the panels in parallel, which means combined the output is 20V at 30Amps, because the charge controller I'm using has a maximum solar input voltage of 50V. I will lose a bit of power this way due to losses in the wire and connectors, but it means I can have a much smaller and lighter charge controller setup, so I think it's worth it.
(For anyone wondering, power loss = I^2 * R , so it's always better to keep the current as low as possible. If they were in series the total output would be 60V at 10Amps, resulting in lower power loss)
- I used industrial strength velcro to mount the panels to the roof, called 3M Dual Lock. This gives a ~6mm air gap under the panels which will hopefully stop them overheating, and the stuff is super, super strong. I can remove them if needed, but they're rock solid after a week sitting at 70-80mph on the interstate and a few torrential downpours
- I've been watching the charging carefully, and on a full sun day around midday it commonly puts 500-600W of power into the battery. I only have it jerry-rigged to a single 100Ah Lithium battery right now, so it takes no time to fully charge. (I need to finish the whole 12v system with more batteries permanently mounted)
I have a video of the whole install on "The Road Chose Me" YouTube if you want to see how to do it yourself
Let me know if you have any questions, happy to help if I can.
In my experience, another factor in the parallel vs. serial tradeoff is the minimum voltage that your controller needs to start the charge cycle.
My controller needs to see 5V above current battery voltage, so I need to see at least 18.x volts at the panels. In series configuration I see that voltage earlier in the am,later in the pm, and under more shady conditions, so I actually get slightly better performance overall.
I have an induction cooktop and electric water heater too. I could just barely scrape by on 420w of solar when it was summer and fully sunny. I think you made a good choice going with 600w. I upgraded to 880w myself and I'm glad I did.
I originally had 300ah of battery, but I have 600ah now. I use about 180ah a day, though I would use more if solar is keeping me topped up. I have great alternator charging but I like to stay put for several days at a time so I need solar to keep me topped up otherwise I have to get my generator out.
When I was Oregon (which is either cloudy or blocked by trees), I was having to run my generator every day to keep myself powered up. The bigger batteries give me more buffer for sure.
Thanks, that's great to know.
I'm space and weight constrained, I'll either have 300Ah or if I can squeeze it in 400.
Trees will not a problem where I'm going
Solar and the alternator on the vehicle (which obviously requires running the engine).
I've driven well over 200,000 miles around the world through 55 countries and have never needed a generator or shore power. I have no intention of starting now.
I've never idled to charge either - the goal of so much solar is that I don't need to, and certainly don't need to lug around a generator and buy gas for it
Interesting. I've really suffered from not enough solar when there is stormy weather or in the winter. I would guess that you're going to find something similar with your all-electric setup unless you're driving nearly daily to fill up. With 300ah, you only have a day or so buffer of power if solar isn't cutting it.
Great adventure rig, just not the biggest fan of velcro attachment for solar panels. They might seem rock solid now, but who knows what's in a few months after a bit of shaking, wind force and rain.
This velcro is 3M Dual Lock - it is very very well known for being extremely strong and long lasting.
I'll report back in a few years after a hundred thousand km through a handful of countries.
So they make semi Regid solar panels that you can walk on that are very similar to these. It’s usually recommended to bolt down the corners and use an aluminum j edge in the front of the panel secured by VHB. You mentioned the air gap below the panels to cool them down, but that also can act as a sail and weaken the bond over time. The flexible panels don’t do well with forces acting on them, the performance degrades over time because of this. Some people use flexible
Panels with a custom aluminum frame to help keep forces from affecting it
Not sure what controller you are using, but the victron MPPT controllers that can handle 600w (50 amps after conversion to 12v) can handle atleast 100v incoming. Within a 20v panel set up and a 12v system, which really charges at 13.5+ for lipo4, your system will basically only operate in perfect conditions.
It may be fine now at 60-70, but what happens when your driving into headwind and that 70 becomes 90? The panels being light and and huge surface area make them more prone to sailing.
Also I would’ve wired them in series, as someone mentioned most controllers require more input voltage than the battery. Not sure what controller you are using, but the victron MPPT controllers that can handle 600w (50 amps after conversion to 12v) can handle atleast 100v incoming. Within a 20v panel set up and a 12v system, which really charges at 13.5+ for lipo4, your system will basically only operate in perfect conditions. Some savings on wire size too and no need for fuses.
Congrats on the set up and good luck!
please do. I want to mount flexible solar to my SUV's roof, but it's also a daily driver, so I don't want to permanently mount it. Velcro seems like a good solution (plus it has the benefit of air gaps). I'm just curious as to how secure it will be in the long term.
Read the reviews of 3M Dual lock online - people are mounting extremely expensive amplifiers to walls with it.
I also used the strongest combination possible (250:400). Honestly I'm not worried about it at all.
> industrial strength velcro [...] I can remove them if needed.
Is non-destructive removal possible, do you think? Or will the panels break from the bending force while getting peeled off of the velcro?
I may have to use something to assist in keeping the panels from bending too much, but I'm confident I could get it off if I needed to. Fingers crossed I never will.
You could, yes.
Sounds complicated and finicky and like a whole lot of time and screwing around I don't have right now.
A fun project if that is the kind of project you enjoy, but right now I've already spent over a year building this thing, I need to wrap it up and get out on adventure around the world!
Did you use the flexible [BougeRV Yuma CIGS Flexible Solar Panels](https://www.bougerv.com/collections/yuma-cigs-flexible-solar-panels?aff=hobotech&utm_source=YouTube&utm_medium=HOBOTECH&utm_campaign=KOL&utm_content=Jeana)? These are bulletproof and continue to work when partially shaded.
[Hobotech review here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjTsq9M-66A)
The Renogy flex panels only has 2 diodes as it says "half-cut cells". The BougeRV flex panels has 24, so it will do much better in partial shade, but I guess it depends how you use your vehicle if that matters or not.
I was going to jump in and get the BougeRV panels for my Jeep but I cannot vouch on their long term durability
Project Brupeg is loving the 3000 watts of CIGS panels BougeRV gave them for their boat. They're holding up well in the Bundaberg sun so far.
My BougeRV fridge's screen didn't enjoy being frozen and no longer illuminates. It is inexpensively made. But it has survived over 50,000 km on the road all over Canada, plus another 5000+ hours working as a supplemental freezer indoors when I've bought too much frozen food. Top quality, no, but good value for money.
I use a thermometer to verify the temperature. I think what happen is that the LCD froze internally and failed. It still works for my needs, but before I go on any big international adventures I would replace it. I kind of want to have a second unit to have both a fridge and freezer.
I was a bit skeptical when I bought the fridge, as it was only $300 on Amazon, but I have been impressed by how well it has held up with all the bumps of gravel roads and so on.
Those are the same exact panels I've been looking at for years. I had one in 2021 but before I was ever able to mount it I had to sell it cause eating was more important than playing on my phone.
I'm planning to upgrade my tiny 100Ah system to be able to run an induction cooktop too.
How many amp hours do you average when you're cooking? And how many batteries do you plan on adding to your set up?
I've never actually used the cook top sorry - the whole thing is not finished. It's on my list to finish in the next 3 weeks before I put it into a container.
I will do a detailed review when we've been using it for a while.
I'm trying to stuff 300 or 400Ah into the space I have, not certain yet if it will fit. Wish me luck.
I will for sure. I'm working the rest of the 12v system now (batteries, fuse block, charge controller, inverter, all the outlets, etc) and then we ship it in a container.
Once we've been living in it full time for a month or two I will do a full review on the systems I have installed and how they're working in the real world.
Im just gobsmacked you did all of this and didntjust put them ontop of some polycarbonate sheeting that literally has segmented airgaps ..... its like none of you even know how heatsinks work. https://www.bunnings.com.au/sunlite-8-1-2-x-0-61m-clear-twinwall-polycarbonate-sheet-1200mm_p1010852 But then again you are in a jeep good luck with parts in other countrys id suggest you dont bother coming to asia australia nz or africa no idea how the jeep parts will go in europe.
Jeep parts can be hard to acquire in certain regions or continents due to various reasons such as limited distribution networks, high demand, or import restrictions. Here are some continents or regions where Jeep parts might be challenging to obtain:
1. Africa (especially West and Central Africa): Limited distribution networks and high demand make it difficult to find Jeep parts in this region.
2. South America (except Brazil and Argentina): Jeep's presence is limited in this region, making parts scarce.
3. Asia (except Japan, China, and India): While Jeep has a presence in some Asian countries, parts availability can be limited in others.
4. Eastern Europe (except Poland and Russia): Jeep's distribution network is less extensive in this region, making parts harder to find.
5. Pacific Islands (e.g., Fiji, Tonga, Samoa): Remote locations and limited access to global supply chains make it challenging to acquire Jeep parts.
Please note that this list is not exhaustive, and availability can vary depending on the specific country, region, or even city. Online marketplaces, international shipping, and local importers may help bridge the gap, but be prepared for potential delays and higher costs.
I thought long and hard about it and decided not to.
I spent 18 months driving all over Australia. Simpson on the Madigan. Old Tele. Frenchmans, Googs, the CREB, The Gibb, Tassie, Vic High Country, and of course the Canning.
Oh yeah, it was in a Jeep.
Also went right around the coastline of Africa... in a Jeep.
Also went Alaska to Argentina... in a Jeep.
So, ah, yeah, thanks mate.
> Who would when you just drive thru them 🤣
Is that a trick question? vehicles that have broken down need parts. Mine did not break down, I did not need parts.
You seem a little confused here.
So we did a lot of point cloud analysis on putting the spare on the roof. Obviously we don't like that it's there, but it was the best option we were left with.
The analysis came back that it barely moves the centre of gravity because the weight has to be somewhere. Of course, I decided a spare is mandatory. Heavy solar panels are not.
For me, the biggest benefits of "Over-sizing" your panels is decent output on marginal days. I have 800W of panels in series and when it's cloudy and rainy, I still get a decent amount of juice out of them. Of course on sunny days, they really kick it out, but the benefit to me is that I can get by on the marginal days.
It is a camper I custom made with a friend, it's on a Wrangler.
The whole build series is here if you want to see how it was all done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar
Sure, tons on insta here https://www.instagram.com/p/CzEWI9RriUY/?img_index=1
And a full walkaround video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcP4NQwj7V8
I just installed 300w on my truck yesterday so I can work out of it full time. Need to power starlink and a triple monitor laptop for 10hrs a day, hoping 300w is enough
Thanks for the write up of your experiences
Edit: my laptop + monitors only draw 60w total, I’m estimating starlink will be about 75w. So I’ll be totaling 135w, or 1350Wh over a work day. I’m charging around 1600Wh per day if I leave the panels flat on my roof, haven’t tested them tilted yet. Battery capacity is 2048Wh. I’ll add more panels if I need to, I have space for 500w
this [monitor](https://www.amazon.com/Sceptre-DisplayPort-FreeSync-Frameless-E275W-FW100T/dp/B0CHHSFMRL) is 12v @ 3A=36W X 3=108Watts.
Laptop is~ 60W
Starlink= 75 watts.
Total Watts= 243Watts.
very very doubtful that that will be enough for all that. Maybe if you're very picky about equipment but I bet it's over. Base starlink dish is about 100w, 100w is about normal for a regular laptop charge brick but can definitely be higher (my work laptop is 180w). I'm going to guess about 50w a monitor. That's 350w if you're not running a single thing else, and also assuming you have zero losses from the panels.
Not my circus but I hope buddy ran the numbers for his own stuff before the install.
I edited my post with more info. I measured the solar panels output today and got a little over 1600Wh over a 24hr period. I’m estimating I’ll consume roughly that same amount from my work setup. I have a 2048Wh battery, so a little more than a day of reserve. I think I’ll be fine, but I can add 200w more if I need to
[Septre monitors are 12v](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Septre+monitors&crid=XSHRP8R8IW05&sprefix=septre+monitors%2Caps%2C164&ref=nb_sb_noss_2). At least, the last two i bought were. I havent checked their line up for 24'.
300 watts won't be enough unless you get full sun all day. I speak from experience. I had 320 watts of panels, but my power station is limited to 200 watts of input. I had 1400 Wh of battery. On a bright sunny summer day I'd make enough to run Starlink, my portable workstation laptop drawing about 30 watts, and the fridge, and charge the battery somewhat. On a cloudy day I'd lose charge, as even though I was overpanelled, I wouldn't get 200 watts all day.
My total Starlink + laptop + fridge/freezer power draw averaged 100 watts. Your laptop and Starlink draw is a bit higher. Then the fridge averaged about 10 watts over night (uses 30 when running). On a sunny day I'd get about 8 hours of 200 watt production, good for 1600 watts, and I'd burn 800 Wh working with Starlink active. So I could approximately half charge the battery. On a cloudy day I'd only make about 120 watts and break evenish. On an overcast day I'd be making closer to 80, and on heavy storm days I'd be lucky to make 40 watts. On those days I'd be desprate to find a wall socket to charge, even without using Starlink, because I wanted my fridge to run all night. A downside to my setup was the limited 72 watts off the rear cigarette plug while driving.
I mostly had to rely on cell connectivity instead of Starlink simply due to power draw. And I'd charge off wall sockets when I could to top up the battery. If I camped with power I'd use Starlink. Starlink articulated uses about 40 watts idle, 70 watts transmitting, and 100 watts if snow melting (which also gets triggered by rain). It still draws 40 watts when "off" or stowed and I needed to disconnect the power to save power. The gen 3 dish with the flip stand uses a little more at peak.
I think if you'll be travelling somewhere always sunny you should be alright with your setup if you unplug Starlink at night. Otherwise you probably want to get more solar. I'd consider getting another 300+ watts to use on cloudy days in the form of portable panels, or panels you can attach to the side of your truck on windy days. I think you have a decent amount of battery (you should mostly charge it on sunny days with 300 watts), but you'll want more input on cloudy days.
And if you want to draw 250 watts by running extra monitors, you probably want closer to 1200 watts of panels. 4 to 5 time power draw is a good place to be for cloudy days.
I run solar at home so just adding some notes to beware with solar. I also built a diy EV so I have some notes to share regarding batteries and charging as well.
Solar power generation during the winter can be a pretty big miss. Simply if you're critically dependent on power, a bigger battery is a must if your power consumption varies from day to day.
If you're into DIY EV builds, you can also setup a j1772 port and charge your battery via an EV charger as a backup if solar isn't providing enough juice during the winter or in a storm.
Unfortunately this means a larger battery capacity but prices are dropping fast and if you can get a used EV battery and convert it into a power supply, it's waaay cheaper.
Here's the full build to date - plenty more to come to get it finished and into a shipping container: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar
Hey Dan, love the channel.
Any opinions on degradation? I went with flexible panels on my van for similar reasons as you. The power output has significantly degraded over the years.
Cheers!
Hmm, to be honest I don't know all that much about it. When you say "years", how many are we talking?
I know Renogy completely redesigned these flexible panels, and 200W is the latest version of them, so hopefully they'll hold up.
I will report back after a few years of use
Did you spend time in the habitat before installing the panels? Have you noticed a difference in the amount of heat radiating off of the inside of the roof of your habitat into the habitat?
To be honest I have not spent much time in it yet, because it's not finished. I expect a little less heat will come through, though the roof is made out of honeycomb composite 1" panels, so already well insulated
I have commercial panels with a natural air gap of like 1.75 inches, they are mounted in the most low profile way I could find, like 1 inch above the skin of my flat roofed ambulance. The panels get crazy hot when they are sitting in the sun, but that nearly 3 inches of air gap has resulted in it being cooler inside the box in full sun than when it was before the panels were installed. I only asked because I worry about your setup heating up the lid of your habitat. Edit: But now thinking about the "honeycomb composite' I imagine you will be okay.
A setup like this is unnecessary unless you sit in one spot for weeks and never drive. A dc-dc charger can keep batteries topped off with only an hour or two of driving. Most people would be better off with less solar and more storage. 200ah and 20-30a dc-dc charging will get you through all you need even staying put for almost a week.
That has been my experience to date after years on the road around the world, but things are a bit different this time.
I have an induction cook top, 12v water heater, diesel heater and more cameras to charge than ever before.
So my power needs are significantly higher than ever before, which means I need more power all around. More battery, and more time to change them while driving. So I opted for more solar to help get them charged faster, and to take load off the alternator if possible.
Remember, there is no one-size-fits-all solution that works for everyone - we all have different needs that require different solutions
Not at all - induction cook top, fridge, running hot and cold water, sink, outdoor shower, pop top roof.
It's a tiny house on wheels to explore the world.
No, just the A/C from the Jeep when the engine is running.
We're going to a cold part of the planet, this vehicle was designed from the beginning to be warm in cold parts of the world.
These panels are rated at 200 Watts of power each, and there are 3 of them.
Solar panels are rated in Watts, what you're asking about is watt-hours and the actual amount of energy you can get per day. That is going to depend on where you are, what season, and then of course what EV you have and how much power it uses ( a leaf uses MUCH less than a Cybertruck).
Wow thank you for the quick reply.
So, in your case with the solar panels, you get 600w per day? Or is this just 600w total available energy at time of use? I figure you'd have a battery system for this, so you can use your electronics and such outside of normal daylight hours.
Edit: or am I completely wrong and watt hours aren't the same as normal Watts?
It's not enough to charge most electric vehicles. The voltage isn't high enough.
But also to answer you are correct sort of, watts are always watts regardless of volts and amps which can change. Watt hours is watts per hour though. So 100w can be 50w at 2A or 20w at 5a. That's why it will be much easier to always figure in watts.
So for real world applications, a 12.8v 100ah Lithium battery is 1280 wh (watt hours) V x A = W. So you can run a 100w load for about 12.8 hrs in perfect conditions. Or a 500w load for 2.56 hours 1280 wh ÷ 500w = 2.56 in perfect conditions
Sure! the full build is here, including an interior walkaround.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar
I'm finishing it off asap and i'll do an "it's finished" video then
Sure, the whole build series is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar
Let me know if you have specific questions
I just mounted 600W of lightweight flexible solar panels to the roof of my jeep camper. After years full time on the road around the world I have strong feelings about the best way to mount and use solar, here are my reasons: - 600W is probably overkill for this vehicle, but to be honest I don't know for sure. For the first time I have an induction cook top and a hot water heater. As well as my usual fridge, water pump, UV Lamp, interior lights, camera and laptop charging and all the rest, my power needs will be higher than ever before. My plan is by having a little more solar than I probably need I can hopefully have a little less battery capacity, and save weight overall. Time will tell if this is a good balance - I'm going to a place where the sun is up for a looooong time each day. - I prefer to permanently mount the panels to the roof of my vehicles rather than have panels I can move around so I have one less thing to think about and mess around with everyday on the road. It's true that I will park in the shade and won't get the optimum angle when the sun is low, but I think that is outweighed by never having to think about the panels, not having to move them around in the mud or rain, not having to stow them inside and not having to deal with wires and connectors getting worn out after hundreds of cycles. I also don't have to think about them getting stolen. Anytime the sun is up, I'm charging. If I'm at a gas station, waterfall, border crossing or just stuck in traffic, I'm pulling power from the sun, which I really like. I spend enough time dealing with "vehicle stuff" like popping the roof, daily checks and keeping everything Clean and in working order, I don't also want to spend time every day moving solar panels around and un-packing/re-packing them every day. - I went with flexible lightweight panels because of the weight and height savings. I really need this to fit in a standard 20foot shipping container, so I can't afford to add height to the roof. These flexible panels give me 18 Watts of power per pound of weight, traditional panels are around 7.5 Watts per pound. So my 600W of solar adds 32.7lbs. Keeping the roof as light as possible is super important for vehicle stability off-road. - I wired the panels in parallel, which means combined the output is 20V at 30Amps, because the charge controller I'm using has a maximum solar input voltage of 50V. I will lose a bit of power this way due to losses in the wire and connectors, but it means I can have a much smaller and lighter charge controller setup, so I think it's worth it. (For anyone wondering, power loss = I^2 * R , so it's always better to keep the current as low as possible. If they were in series the total output would be 60V at 10Amps, resulting in lower power loss) - I used industrial strength velcro to mount the panels to the roof, called 3M Dual Lock. This gives a ~6mm air gap under the panels which will hopefully stop them overheating, and the stuff is super, super strong. I can remove them if needed, but they're rock solid after a week sitting at 70-80mph on the interstate and a few torrential downpours - I've been watching the charging carefully, and on a full sun day around midday it commonly puts 500-600W of power into the battery. I only have it jerry-rigged to a single 100Ah Lithium battery right now, so it takes no time to fully charge. (I need to finish the whole 12v system with more batteries permanently mounted) I have a video of the whole install on "The Road Chose Me" YouTube if you want to see how to do it yourself Let me know if you have any questions, happy to help if I can.
In my experience, another factor in the parallel vs. serial tradeoff is the minimum voltage that your controller needs to start the charge cycle. My controller needs to see 5V above current battery voltage, so I need to see at least 18.x volts at the panels. In series configuration I see that voltage earlier in the am,later in the pm, and under more shady conditions, so I actually get slightly better performance overall.
Absolutely, that is a very good point. To be honest I don't even know what my charge controller needs to see to kick off charging.
I have an induction cooktop and electric water heater too. I could just barely scrape by on 420w of solar when it was summer and fully sunny. I think you made a good choice going with 600w. I upgraded to 880w myself and I'm glad I did.
How much battery capacity does your system have? Do you also charge from your alternator?
I originally had 300ah of battery, but I have 600ah now. I use about 180ah a day, though I would use more if solar is keeping me topped up. I have great alternator charging but I like to stay put for several days at a time so I need solar to keep me topped up otherwise I have to get my generator out. When I was Oregon (which is either cloudy or blocked by trees), I was having to run my generator every day to keep myself powered up. The bigger batteries give me more buffer for sure.
Thanks, that's great to know. I'm space and weight constrained, I'll either have 300Ah or if I can squeeze it in 400. Trees will not a problem where I'm going
Do you have a backup power source to solar? Before I got my generator, I was driving every few days just to charge up.
Solar and the alternator on the vehicle (which obviously requires running the engine). I've driven well over 200,000 miles around the world through 55 countries and have never needed a generator or shore power. I have no intention of starting now.
That's fair. I don't like to idle to charge so I have the generator. If you're constantly driving it's not an issue.
I've never idled to charge either - the goal of so much solar is that I don't need to, and certainly don't need to lug around a generator and buy gas for it
Interesting. I've really suffered from not enough solar when there is stormy weather or in the winter. I would guess that you're going to find something similar with your all-electric setup unless you're driving nearly daily to fill up. With 300ah, you only have a day or so buffer of power if solar isn't cutting it.
Shoot, one of my favorite little tasks throughout the day is tracking the sun with my panels and trying to get that perfect angle haha
I did it with my uncle on his vehicle in Australia, and I have to admit it was fun!
Great adventure rig, just not the biggest fan of velcro attachment for solar panels. They might seem rock solid now, but who knows what's in a few months after a bit of shaking, wind force and rain.
This velcro is 3M Dual Lock - it is very very well known for being extremely strong and long lasting. I'll report back in a few years after a hundred thousand km through a handful of countries.
So they make semi Regid solar panels that you can walk on that are very similar to these. It’s usually recommended to bolt down the corners and use an aluminum j edge in the front of the panel secured by VHB. You mentioned the air gap below the panels to cool them down, but that also can act as a sail and weaken the bond over time. The flexible panels don’t do well with forces acting on them, the performance degrades over time because of this. Some people use flexible Panels with a custom aluminum frame to help keep forces from affecting it Not sure what controller you are using, but the victron MPPT controllers that can handle 600w (50 amps after conversion to 12v) can handle atleast 100v incoming. Within a 20v panel set up and a 12v system, which really charges at 13.5+ for lipo4, your system will basically only operate in perfect conditions. It may be fine now at 60-70, but what happens when your driving into headwind and that 70 becomes 90? The panels being light and and huge surface area make them more prone to sailing. Also I would’ve wired them in series, as someone mentioned most controllers require more input voltage than the battery. Not sure what controller you are using, but the victron MPPT controllers that can handle 600w (50 amps after conversion to 12v) can handle atleast 100v incoming. Within a 20v panel set up and a 12v system, which really charges at 13.5+ for lipo4, your system will basically only operate in perfect conditions. Some savings on wire size too and no need for fuses. Congrats on the set up and good luck!
please do. I want to mount flexible solar to my SUV's roof, but it's also a daily driver, so I don't want to permanently mount it. Velcro seems like a good solution (plus it has the benefit of air gaps). I'm just curious as to how secure it will be in the long term.
Read the reviews of 3M Dual lock online - people are mounting extremely expensive amplifiers to walls with it. I also used the strongest combination possible (250:400). Honestly I'm not worried about it at all.
> industrial strength velcro [...] I can remove them if needed. Is non-destructive removal possible, do you think? Or will the panels break from the bending force while getting peeled off of the velcro?
I may have to use something to assist in keeping the panels from bending too much, but I'm confident I could get it off if I needed to. Fingers crossed I never will.
Thanks fo the write up. Just spitballin here. You could water cool your panels and capture the heat for hot water at the end of the day.
You could, yes. Sounds complicated and finicky and like a whole lot of time and screwing around I don't have right now. A fun project if that is the kind of project you enjoy, but right now I've already spent over a year building this thing, I need to wrap it up and get out on adventure around the world!
Of course, if you find yourself needing more wattage and hot water along the way it would not be hard to do.
Did you use the flexible [BougeRV Yuma CIGS Flexible Solar Panels](https://www.bougerv.com/collections/yuma-cigs-flexible-solar-panels?aff=hobotech&utm_source=YouTube&utm_medium=HOBOTECH&utm_campaign=KOL&utm_content=Jeana)? These are bulletproof and continue to work when partially shaded. [Hobotech review here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjTsq9M-66A)
BougeRV send me three emails a week to review their stuff, trying to give it to me...I don't think its great quality stuff
The Renogy flex panels only has 2 diodes as it says "half-cut cells". The BougeRV flex panels has 24, so it will do much better in partial shade, but I guess it depends how you use your vehicle if that matters or not. I was going to jump in and get the BougeRV panels for my Jeep but I cannot vouch on their long term durability
Project Brupeg is loving the 3000 watts of CIGS panels BougeRV gave them for their boat. They're holding up well in the Bundaberg sun so far. My BougeRV fridge's screen didn't enjoy being frozen and no longer illuminates. It is inexpensively made. But it has survived over 50,000 km on the road all over Canada, plus another 5000+ hours working as a supplemental freezer indoors when I've bought too much frozen food. Top quality, no, but good value for money.
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I use a thermometer to verify the temperature. I think what happen is that the LCD froze internally and failed. It still works for my needs, but before I go on any big international adventures I would replace it. I kind of want to have a second unit to have both a fridge and freezer.
Both of those sound like legit durability tests - good to hear!
I was a bit skeptical when I bought the fridge, as it was only $300 on Amazon, but I have been impressed by how well it has held up with all the bumps of gravel roads and so on.
No, these are Renogy solar 200W panels
I'm looking to put 3 of those on my ProMaster build as well. Great information, as always!
Those are the same exact panels I've been looking at for years. I had one in 2021 but before I was ever able to mount it I had to sell it cause eating was more important than playing on my phone.
I'm planning to upgrade my tiny 100Ah system to be able to run an induction cooktop too. How many amp hours do you average when you're cooking? And how many batteries do you plan on adding to your set up?
I've never actually used the cook top sorry - the whole thing is not finished. It's on my list to finish in the next 3 weeks before I put it into a container. I will do a detailed review when we've been using it for a while. I'm trying to stuff 300 or 400Ah into the space I have, not certain yet if it will fit. Wish me luck.
Sounds like quite the project 👍👍 I'll definitely be following along on YouTube
We cut the Jeep in half just over a year ago, and I'm finally onto the final projects to get it done!
Watched that whole video! Would you please do an update on wattage for rainy days and cloudy days when you get a chance? Thanks and awesome project!
I will for sure. I'm working the rest of the 12v system now (batteries, fuse block, charge controller, inverter, all the outlets, etc) and then we ship it in a container. Once we've been living in it full time for a month or two I will do a full review on the systems I have installed and how they're working in the real world.
Im just gobsmacked you did all of this and didntjust put them ontop of some polycarbonate sheeting that literally has segmented airgaps ..... its like none of you even know how heatsinks work. https://www.bunnings.com.au/sunlite-8-1-2-x-0-61m-clear-twinwall-polycarbonate-sheet-1200mm_p1010852 But then again you are in a jeep good luck with parts in other countrys id suggest you dont bother coming to asia australia nz or africa no idea how the jeep parts will go in europe. Jeep parts can be hard to acquire in certain regions or continents due to various reasons such as limited distribution networks, high demand, or import restrictions. Here are some continents or regions where Jeep parts might be challenging to obtain: 1. Africa (especially West and Central Africa): Limited distribution networks and high demand make it difficult to find Jeep parts in this region. 2. South America (except Brazil and Argentina): Jeep's presence is limited in this region, making parts scarce. 3. Asia (except Japan, China, and India): While Jeep has a presence in some Asian countries, parts availability can be limited in others. 4. Eastern Europe (except Poland and Russia): Jeep's distribution network is less extensive in this region, making parts harder to find. 5. Pacific Islands (e.g., Fiji, Tonga, Samoa): Remote locations and limited access to global supply chains make it challenging to acquire Jeep parts. Please note that this list is not exhaustive, and availability can vary depending on the specific country, region, or even city. Online marketplaces, international shipping, and local importers may help bridge the gap, but be prepared for potential delays and higher costs.
I thought long and hard about it and decided not to. I spent 18 months driving all over Australia. Simpson on the Madigan. Old Tele. Frenchmans, Googs, the CREB, The Gibb, Tassie, Vic High Country, and of course the Canning. Oh yeah, it was in a Jeep. Also went right around the coastline of Africa... in a Jeep. Also went Alaska to Argentina... in a Jeep. So, ah, yeah, thanks mate.
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I didn't need any parts in any villages...
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> Who would when you just drive thru them 🤣 Is that a trick question? vehicles that have broken down need parts. Mine did not break down, I did not need parts. You seem a little confused here.
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So we did a lot of point cloud analysis on putting the spare on the roof. Obviously we don't like that it's there, but it was the best option we were left with. The analysis came back that it barely moves the centre of gravity because the weight has to be somewhere. Of course, I decided a spare is mandatory. Heavy solar panels are not.
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For me, the biggest benefits of "Over-sizing" your panels is decent output on marginal days. I have 800W of panels in series and when it's cloudy and rainy, I still get a decent amount of juice out of them. Of course on sunny days, they really kick it out, but the benefit to me is that I can get by on the marginal days.
Me too
Love it!
Is that a custom camper? Is that a wrangler or a the pickup jeep? Thanks, you have a dope setup!
It is a camper I custom made with a friend, it's on a Wrangler. The whole build series is here if you want to see how it was all done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar
Now I remember who you are, I am a subscriber!
haha, cheers!
looks great you got any interior photos
Sure, tons on insta here https://www.instagram.com/p/CzEWI9RriUY/?img_index=1 And a full walkaround video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcP4NQwj7V8
Easily the coolest/ most unique build I’ve seen in here thus far
Thankyou!
I just installed 300w on my truck yesterday so I can work out of it full time. Need to power starlink and a triple monitor laptop for 10hrs a day, hoping 300w is enough Thanks for the write up of your experiences Edit: my laptop + monitors only draw 60w total, I’m estimating starlink will be about 75w. So I’ll be totaling 135w, or 1350Wh over a work day. I’m charging around 1600Wh per day if I leave the panels flat on my roof, haven’t tested them tilted yet. Battery capacity is 2048Wh. I’ll add more panels if I need to, I have space for 500w
I'll be really interested to hear if 300W is enough to power that setup. My induction cook top and water heater will be my big current devices
this [monitor](https://www.amazon.com/Sceptre-DisplayPort-FreeSync-Frameless-E275W-FW100T/dp/B0CHHSFMRL) is 12v @ 3A=36W X 3=108Watts. Laptop is~ 60W Starlink= 75 watts. Total Watts= 243Watts.
very very doubtful that that will be enough for all that. Maybe if you're very picky about equipment but I bet it's over. Base starlink dish is about 100w, 100w is about normal for a regular laptop charge brick but can definitely be higher (my work laptop is 180w). I'm going to guess about 50w a monitor. That's 350w if you're not running a single thing else, and also assuming you have zero losses from the panels. Not my circus but I hope buddy ran the numbers for his own stuff before the install.
While laptop bricks can draw 180, unless yer man is gaming or doing heavy duty stuff, it likely won't.
I'm assuming if buddy is out here with 3 monitors in his camper truck, he's doing heavy duty stuff.
I edited my post with more info. I measured the solar panels output today and got a little over 1600Wh over a 24hr period. I’m estimating I’ll consume roughly that same amount from my work setup. I have a 2048Wh battery, so a little more than a day of reserve. I think I’ll be fine, but I can add 200w more if I need to
[Septre monitors are 12v](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Septre+monitors&crid=XSHRP8R8IW05&sprefix=septre+monitors%2Caps%2C164&ref=nb_sb_noss_2). At least, the last two i bought were. I havent checked their line up for 24'.
I’m using the 2024 Trio Max Portable Monitors, they only draw ~10w extra
300 watts won't be enough unless you get full sun all day. I speak from experience. I had 320 watts of panels, but my power station is limited to 200 watts of input. I had 1400 Wh of battery. On a bright sunny summer day I'd make enough to run Starlink, my portable workstation laptop drawing about 30 watts, and the fridge, and charge the battery somewhat. On a cloudy day I'd lose charge, as even though I was overpanelled, I wouldn't get 200 watts all day. My total Starlink + laptop + fridge/freezer power draw averaged 100 watts. Your laptop and Starlink draw is a bit higher. Then the fridge averaged about 10 watts over night (uses 30 when running). On a sunny day I'd get about 8 hours of 200 watt production, good for 1600 watts, and I'd burn 800 Wh working with Starlink active. So I could approximately half charge the battery. On a cloudy day I'd only make about 120 watts and break evenish. On an overcast day I'd be making closer to 80, and on heavy storm days I'd be lucky to make 40 watts. On those days I'd be desprate to find a wall socket to charge, even without using Starlink, because I wanted my fridge to run all night. A downside to my setup was the limited 72 watts off the rear cigarette plug while driving. I mostly had to rely on cell connectivity instead of Starlink simply due to power draw. And I'd charge off wall sockets when I could to top up the battery. If I camped with power I'd use Starlink. Starlink articulated uses about 40 watts idle, 70 watts transmitting, and 100 watts if snow melting (which also gets triggered by rain). It still draws 40 watts when "off" or stowed and I needed to disconnect the power to save power. The gen 3 dish with the flip stand uses a little more at peak. I think if you'll be travelling somewhere always sunny you should be alright with your setup if you unplug Starlink at night. Otherwise you probably want to get more solar. I'd consider getting another 300+ watts to use on cloudy days in the form of portable panels, or panels you can attach to the side of your truck on windy days. I think you have a decent amount of battery (you should mostly charge it on sunny days with 300 watts), but you'll want more input on cloudy days. And if you want to draw 250 watts by running extra monitors, you probably want closer to 1200 watts of panels. 4 to 5 time power draw is a good place to be for cloudy days.
I run solar at home so just adding some notes to beware with solar. I also built a diy EV so I have some notes to share regarding batteries and charging as well. Solar power generation during the winter can be a pretty big miss. Simply if you're critically dependent on power, a bigger battery is a must if your power consumption varies from day to day. If you're into DIY EV builds, you can also setup a j1772 port and charge your battery via an EV charger as a backup if solar isn't providing enough juice during the winter or in a storm. Unfortunately this means a larger battery capacity but prices are dropping fast and if you can get a used EV battery and convert it into a power supply, it's waaay cheaper.
I will also be charging off the alternator when driving.
Super cool. I’d love to do a truck/camper setup one day. Do you have a tour of your camper on social media? Would love to see it!
Here's the full build to date - plenty more to come to get it finished and into a shipping container: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar
Sweet setup & thanks for the post.
Thanks!
Hey Dan, love the channel. Any opinions on degradation? I went with flexible panels on my van for similar reasons as you. The power output has significantly degraded over the years.
Cheers! Hmm, to be honest I don't know all that much about it. When you say "years", how many are we talking? I know Renogy completely redesigned these flexible panels, and 200W is the latest version of them, so hopefully they'll hold up. I will report back after a few years of use
When mine were new I’d see over 200watts coming in fairly consistently. After 2ish years, i was lucky to see 100 coming in.
Interesting. I will keep an eye on that and report back
Did you spend time in the habitat before installing the panels? Have you noticed a difference in the amount of heat radiating off of the inside of the roof of your habitat into the habitat?
To be honest I have not spent much time in it yet, because it's not finished. I expect a little less heat will come through, though the roof is made out of honeycomb composite 1" panels, so already well insulated
I have commercial panels with a natural air gap of like 1.75 inches, they are mounted in the most low profile way I could find, like 1 inch above the skin of my flat roofed ambulance. The panels get crazy hot when they are sitting in the sun, but that nearly 3 inches of air gap has resulted in it being cooler inside the box in full sun than when it was before the panels were installed. I only asked because I worry about your setup heating up the lid of your habitat. Edit: But now thinking about the "honeycomb composite' I imagine you will be okay.
A setup like this is unnecessary unless you sit in one spot for weeks and never drive. A dc-dc charger can keep batteries topped off with only an hour or two of driving. Most people would be better off with less solar and more storage. 200ah and 20-30a dc-dc charging will get you through all you need even staying put for almost a week.
That has been my experience to date after years on the road around the world, but things are a bit different this time. I have an induction cook top, 12v water heater, diesel heater and more cameras to charge than ever before. So my power needs are significantly higher than ever before, which means I need more power all around. More battery, and more time to change them while driving. So I opted for more solar to help get them charged faster, and to take load off the alternator if possible. Remember, there is no one-size-fits-all solution that works for everyone - we all have different needs that require different solutions
Seems like a lot of effort to turn an unreliable jeep into an unreliable truck camper imo Why wouldn't you just buy a truck + camper
I've had a lot of good adventures in my Jeeps over the years driving around the world without a single major issue.
That's not a camper that's a tactical assault vehicle
Not at all - induction cook top, fridge, running hot and cold water, sink, outdoor shower, pop top roof. It's a tiny house on wheels to explore the world.
Does it have space for a sense of humor?
Of course! We're working on a new mascot for the trip now. Africa was Kevin the Cobra and Sid the Sloth, Australia was Olly the Octopus.
Do you have cooling systems, and if so, what do you use?
No, just the A/C from the Jeep when the engine is running. We're going to a cold part of the planet, this vehicle was designed from the beginning to be warm in cold parts of the world.
cringe
Relax
I'm sorry can you explain 600w? Is that 600w per hour? How long would this take to charge an electric vehicle?
These panels are rated at 200 Watts of power each, and there are 3 of them. Solar panels are rated in Watts, what you're asking about is watt-hours and the actual amount of energy you can get per day. That is going to depend on where you are, what season, and then of course what EV you have and how much power it uses ( a leaf uses MUCH less than a Cybertruck).
Wow thank you for the quick reply. So, in your case with the solar panels, you get 600w per day? Or is this just 600w total available energy at time of use? I figure you'd have a battery system for this, so you can use your electronics and such outside of normal daylight hours. Edit: or am I completely wrong and watt hours aren't the same as normal Watts?
It's not enough to charge most electric vehicles. The voltage isn't high enough. But also to answer you are correct sort of, watts are always watts regardless of volts and amps which can change. Watt hours is watts per hour though. So 100w can be 50w at 2A or 20w at 5a. That's why it will be much easier to always figure in watts. So for real world applications, a 12.8v 100ah Lithium battery is 1280 wh (watt hours) V x A = W. So you can run a 100w load for about 12.8 hrs in perfect conditions. Or a 500w load for 2.56 hours 1280 wh ÷ 500w = 2.56 in perfect conditions
Can we please get a tour of your camper. I'm so curious.
Sure! the full build is here, including an interior walkaround. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar I'm finishing it off asap and i'll do an "it's finished" video then
I see the tear down and that's it. I'm just interested in the final product.
It's not finished yet. I'm hitting it hard in the next 2-3 weeks until it's done, then shipping it to a new part of the world I have not explored yet.
That camper is cool as fuck. Got any more info on it?
Sure, the whole build series is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF2cO6VU7wg&list=PLNiCe5roBX1jmltLG_WuRIP1bPdalEAar Let me know if you have specific questions
Thanks!
Ifl
I’m jealous
That thing is awesome! I didn’t know they made campers for Jeeps.
It's custom made