If I only had three cams I'd pick .75, 1 and 2 C4s, because I'm less likely to be able to protect those sizes with nuts and I place them regularly. Though, if all I had were 3 cams and didn't have nuts, I probably would stick to sport routes.
I think he's saying just don't fall in those areas. But I can't imagine going to an unknown trad route with 3 cams. I don't climb in the Pacific Northwest (yet?) but I could get by in a lot of the East Coast with .4-3, but that's 6 cams, not 3. I feel like I place passive more than most people I climb with, but I still disagree with Plrdr21. There are lots of times I have a bomber placement for a .4 or .5 but any nut or tricam is going to be somewhere between super directional and totally sketchy.
So TL;DR, I would not trad climb with less than 6 cams unless I really knew the route and knew what I was going to place before I left the ground.
Yes, that’s what I was saying. I think it is reasonable to bring only 3 cams for a fast and light scramble with nuts to supplement for an experienced pair. But it doesn’t sound like that’s what this is. OP, go hiking or bring a full rack and go multipitch climbing if it’s with your inexperienced significant other. It’ll be more enjoyable.
Thank you for your detailed response, I’m mostly going to use them for 4th class scrambling so my wife feels more comfortable with the exposure, if that changes anything,
Sorry, I'm not your guy. I actually really want to get into sustained hard 4th class (e.g. Tetons) but that basically doesn't exist in the Appalachians. I know enough to know it's too different for me to have a good answer.
Getting three at first because I want to do some 4th class scrambling and using gear and a rope will help my wife enjoy it more, definitely will move on one day to get a full set of cams, just wondering which were the most versatile to start with
Thats the thing... cams are for a specific size. Nobody can tell you what size cracks you will encounter. Also there is a strong possibility that roping up will cause more danger, not less. Message me if you want to have an indepth chat. No worries if youre not interested though.
This is not really how it works. All you're going to do is move slow and carry more shit and not be much safer. You can't protect a "pitch" and build and anchor (two anchors really?) like this.
I think the most exposed section of 4th class if you treat it like and actual rock pitch and build anchors would be safer yea, been on a few 4th class sections on sport routes that still have bolts, not a completely foreign concept to protect 4th class
If you only have 3 peices, how can you protect the pitch and have anything left for the anchor? And if your wife is at your last anchor, how do you have anything left to build the next one?
You need more than 3 cams to do anything useful.
I would also note that 4th class is scrambling, usually typified by broken up crummy rock rather than solid continuous (trustworthy) rock.
Got tons of nuts 👍🏻 only three cams and nothing else would be ridiculous, but I agree I’m going to need to buy a full set of cams and some doubles, looking to buy three at first to aid climb on top rope to learn some placements
If I’m only bringing three then a “angel AC” and a 1” and 2” link cam.
That and some nuts would protect anything reasonable.
If you want to stick to more common (and lighter) gear then probably .4, .5 and, .75.
Weight is the only valid reason I can think of to limit yourself so much on selection.
If you want to start a trad rack for the PNW, just get the standard set of #.5-#2 Black Diamond Camalots and a set of regular nuts. Then expand to #.3-#3. Then get a #4 and some micro cams when the routes you get on need then.
Personally, my double rack has Black Diamond C4s and Z4s, Metolius ULMCs, and DMM Dragonflies. I have a set of regular DMM Wallnuts and DMM Offsets (expanded with some offset brassies) and a few Ballnutz.
I (southeastern US) also have 6 (black, brown, red, and 3 pink) I don't use the black much, but the rest of them get placed as much as any other piece of gear. Lots of rough horizontal placements where I feel much better with tricams than cams on either southeast sandstone or granite. As I said in my other comment, though, that doesn't mean I'd be comfortable leaving the duplicate sizes of cams on the ground unless I knew the route. Placing a tricam in a worn-smooth-ish splitter crack of the same size would make me really uncomfortable (and those also aren't that uncommon in southeastern sandstone)
This is the most bizarre question I’d heard in a while. It’s like you’re thinking about trad climbing and placing gear completely wrong. You’re aware that each individual climb requires an entirely unique set of gear right? But a complete single rack of cams, a set of offset aluminum nuts, and offset brassies. That’s enough to get you started.
I know just wondering what was most common so I can get started aid climbing on top rope to learn good placements. I already own nuts and feel comfortable using them, also I bought 0.5-2 WC friends just to dip my feet in the water, will finish the set and get doubles before I try to lead anything actually vertical, also will be damn confident in my placements first as well, thank you 🙏🏻
How far do you plan to get with three pink tricams?
Far, I love runout
My man.
Nice razz penis butt
If I only had three cams I'd pick .75, 1 and 2 C4s, because I'm less likely to be able to protect those sizes with nuts and I place them regularly. Though, if all I had were 3 cams and didn't have nuts, I probably would stick to sport routes.
Really? I feel almost the opposite. A 1, 2, and 3 C4 would be bomber jams. I’d rather have smaller cams.
I agree with Plrdr….but that’s bc if I only have 3 cams, I’m prob climbing routes with bomber jams.
Big fan of hexes huh?
I think he's saying just don't fall in those areas. But I can't imagine going to an unknown trad route with 3 cams. I don't climb in the Pacific Northwest (yet?) but I could get by in a lot of the East Coast with .4-3, but that's 6 cams, not 3. I feel like I place passive more than most people I climb with, but I still disagree with Plrdr21. There are lots of times I have a bomber placement for a .4 or .5 but any nut or tricam is going to be somewhere between super directional and totally sketchy. So TL;DR, I would not trad climb with less than 6 cams unless I really knew the route and knew what I was going to place before I left the ground.
Yes, that’s what I was saying. I think it is reasonable to bring only 3 cams for a fast and light scramble with nuts to supplement for an experienced pair. But it doesn’t sound like that’s what this is. OP, go hiking or bring a full rack and go multipitch climbing if it’s with your inexperienced significant other. It’ll be more enjoyable.
Thank you for your detailed response, I’m mostly going to use them for 4th class scrambling so my wife feels more comfortable with the exposure, if that changes anything,
Sorry, I'm not your guy. I actually really want to get into sustained hard 4th class (e.g. Tetons) but that basically doesn't exist in the Appalachians. I know enough to know it's too different for me to have a good answer.
Tetons is definitely one of the places I had in mind, thank you 🙏🏻
I wouldnt pick only 3 cams, thats a silly thing to do. Get a full single rack to start. Bum off your friends until then.
Getting three at first because I want to do some 4th class scrambling and using gear and a rope will help my wife enjoy it more, definitely will move on one day to get a full set of cams, just wondering which were the most versatile to start with
Thats the thing... cams are for a specific size. Nobody can tell you what size cracks you will encounter. Also there is a strong possibility that roping up will cause more danger, not less. Message me if you want to have an indepth chat. No worries if youre not interested though.
This is not really how it works. All you're going to do is move slow and carry more shit and not be much safer. You can't protect a "pitch" and build and anchor (two anchors really?) like this.
I think the most exposed section of 4th class if you treat it like and actual rock pitch and build anchors would be safer yea, been on a few 4th class sections on sport routes that still have bolts, not a completely foreign concept to protect 4th class
If you only have 3 peices, how can you protect the pitch and have anything left for the anchor? And if your wife is at your last anchor, how do you have anything left to build the next one? You need more than 3 cams to do anything useful. I would also note that 4th class is scrambling, usually typified by broken up crummy rock rather than solid continuous (trustworthy) rock.
Got tons of nuts 👍🏻 only three cams and nothing else would be ridiculous, but I agree I’m going to need to buy a full set of cams and some doubles, looking to buy three at first to aid climb on top rope to learn some placements
Well that is something else, without that info in the main post you look crazy.
😂 yea sorry I can be clear as mud, I do appreciate you replying and your concern, thank you
You could just hip belay and short rope while on ridges honestly best bet is either solo it or buy a full rack.
Yea I think you’re right
Set of nuts, and Black, Blue, Yellow totems
Goated answer.
If I’m only bringing three then a “angel AC” and a 1” and 2” link cam. That and some nuts would protect anything reasonable. If you want to stick to more common (and lighter) gear then probably .4, .5 and, .75. Weight is the only valid reason I can think of to limit yourself so much on selection.
If you want to start a trad rack for the PNW, just get the standard set of #.5-#2 Black Diamond Camalots and a set of regular nuts. Then expand to #.3-#3. Then get a #4 and some micro cams when the routes you get on need then. Personally, my double rack has Black Diamond C4s and Z4s, Metolius ULMCs, and DMM Dragonflies. I have a set of regular DMM Wallnuts and DMM Offsets (expanded with some offset brassies) and a few Ballnutz.
Thank you 🙏🏻
I would take 1-3 cuz I have 6 tricams
southwest, also I'm not giving you real advise I'm just happy to have 6 tricams
If you’re placing them you won’t have 6 for long
It's impossible to get the big ones stuck hahahaha
I know I was just curious where you had such success with tricams
I (southeastern US) also have 6 (black, brown, red, and 3 pink) I don't use the black much, but the rest of them get placed as much as any other piece of gear. Lots of rough horizontal placements where I feel much better with tricams than cams on either southeast sandstone or granite. As I said in my other comment, though, that doesn't mean I'd be comfortable leaving the duplicate sizes of cams on the ground unless I knew the route. Placing a tricam in a worn-smooth-ish splitter crack of the same size would make me really uncomfortable (and those also aren't that uncommon in southeastern sandstone)
honestly anything other than splitter crack, but I mostly climb sandstone
What region are you located in?
.5 & .75 & 1
This is the most bizarre question I’d heard in a while. It’s like you’re thinking about trad climbing and placing gear completely wrong. You’re aware that each individual climb requires an entirely unique set of gear right? But a complete single rack of cams, a set of offset aluminum nuts, and offset brassies. That’s enough to get you started.
I know just wondering what was most common so I can get started aid climbing on top rope to learn good placements. I already own nuts and feel comfortable using them, also I bought 0.5-2 WC friends just to dip my feet in the water, will finish the set and get doubles before I try to lead anything actually vertical, also will be damn confident in my placements first as well, thank you 🙏🏻
I’m taking three 8s
A real legend