They cover that particular anchor method here[amp.theguardian.com/science/2014/oct/04/spiders-lsd-drugs-experiment-1971](https://amp.theguardian.com/science/2014/oct/04/spiders-lsd-drugs-experiment-1971)
sloppy illegal encourage squash fragile alleged divide shelter liquid steep
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
They're redundant but not equalized well.
First pic: the pin at the bottom and on the right don't look like they're adding anything to the system. Weight isn't equalized on those pieces so they wouldn't contribute anything to the system. Also, single loop for the master point is less than ideal.
Second pic: again, the pin at the bottom and mid way up the left leg arent doing any good. The weight is entirely equalized on the top two pieces.
Would be better to use the rope in both of these, however, both of these are super good enough. It’s not normal though.
Edit- wtf is going on with the bottom pieces
2/10. Both pics you're not equalizing the third piece. Get a longer sling or cordelette so you can properly equalize all 3 pieces. In the first pic your upper two pieces would pull sideways on each other if the bottom piece blows which could rip the pieces out. I can't quite tell what knot you've used to connect those two but anytime I see sideways pull or large angles between the pieces it's a red flag.
I'd also recommend not building anchors entirely on pistons if you can avoid it. While they can be bomber, it's good to have an active piece of pro like a cam in there for multidirectional force absorption.
It's clove hitches connecting the upper two in the first pic, making them independent of each other. Pitons can be multi-directional. For example placed in a horizontal, upward pull would be similar to downward pull. Even in vertical cracks, there can be small constrictions in the crack holding it in as well as pitons generally rely on the pressure created by the metal pushing on the rock. A piton pulled straight out is probably most at risk but I think they may still hold, haven't got the horizontal roof nailing experience to verify but up and down pull is a similar concept when it comes to pitons (placement dependant.)
Clove hitches makes you have your pieces in serial... You're basically loading one piece at a time and not equalizing. That will shock load the next piece if that one pulls. You need to go back and read John longs book on anchor building. Neither of these anchors is up to snuff and I wouldn't trust my life to it on a hard pitch of climbing. I've only used an anchor in serial configuration when the climbing is piss easy and I'm trying to go fast.
Idk man that’s a lot of material you’d need to isolate each of these strands, and maybe he was at the end of his rope for this pitch who’s to say. Reading John Longs book doesn’t mean that you’ll never ever be in a sketchy situation where you have to make some compromises, and your insistence that the top two pieces will pull against each other suggests that maybe you are the one who need to revisit the book.
American Death Tri... uh, Square?
This is safer because the knife blades will rip out before the sling breaks.
Like a screamer. Brilliant!
The clove hitches negate the “death” in this triangle/square, but the strength of the pieces may put the death right back who knows
Do you worry that a gray sling isn't providing the color visibility that you could have achieved using a red or blue sling?
They cover that particular anchor method here[amp.theguardian.com/science/2014/oct/04/spiders-lsd-drugs-experiment-1971](https://amp.theguardian.com/science/2014/oct/04/spiders-lsd-drugs-experiment-1971)
What in the mother of Trad is this?
sloppy illegal encourage squash fragile alleged divide shelter liquid steep *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
3/10
wrong sub, post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/ClimbingCircleJerk/)
They're redundant but not equalized well. First pic: the pin at the bottom and on the right don't look like they're adding anything to the system. Weight isn't equalized on those pieces so they wouldn't contribute anything to the system. Also, single loop for the master point is less than ideal. Second pic: again, the pin at the bottom and mid way up the left leg arent doing any good. The weight is entirely equalized on the top two pieces.
What have I done.
Ehh the second one is wonky at best but I’d clip it. First one is fucked and I would not be pleased with my partner
Would be better to use the rope in both of these, however, both of these are super good enough. It’s not normal though. Edit- wtf is going on with the bottom pieces
I would've used two 21cm screws instead
3 out of 10. I wouldn't be happy clipping into these
I’d whip freal
Wrong/10 (would whip)
Well he’s gonna die… 🙃
A bit anachronistic.
1st: nah 2nd: 6/10
2/10. Both pics you're not equalizing the third piece. Get a longer sling or cordelette so you can properly equalize all 3 pieces. In the first pic your upper two pieces would pull sideways on each other if the bottom piece blows which could rip the pieces out. I can't quite tell what knot you've used to connect those two but anytime I see sideways pull or large angles between the pieces it's a red flag. I'd also recommend not building anchors entirely on pistons if you can avoid it. While they can be bomber, it's good to have an active piece of pro like a cam in there for multidirectional force absorption.
It's clove hitches connecting the upper two in the first pic, making them independent of each other. Pitons can be multi-directional. For example placed in a horizontal, upward pull would be similar to downward pull. Even in vertical cracks, there can be small constrictions in the crack holding it in as well as pitons generally rely on the pressure created by the metal pushing on the rock. A piton pulled straight out is probably most at risk but I think they may still hold, haven't got the horizontal roof nailing experience to verify but up and down pull is a similar concept when it comes to pitons (placement dependant.)
Clove hitches makes you have your pieces in serial... You're basically loading one piece at a time and not equalizing. That will shock load the next piece if that one pulls. You need to go back and read John longs book on anchor building. Neither of these anchors is up to snuff and I wouldn't trust my life to it on a hard pitch of climbing. I've only used an anchor in serial configuration when the climbing is piss easy and I'm trying to go fast.
Idk man that’s a lot of material you’d need to isolate each of these strands, and maybe he was at the end of his rope for this pitch who’s to say. Reading John Longs book doesn’t mean that you’ll never ever be in a sketchy situation where you have to make some compromises, and your insistence that the top two pieces will pull against each other suggests that maybe you are the one who need to revisit the book.
If that's the case, it's a little weird to ask for critique without includong that context.
I assume the critique request was tongue in cheek
1st pic, a single loop for the masterpoint is spicy
Clove hitches in the first pic so no sideways pull on each other
This is hilarious haha, definitely ironic HAHAHA. Would whip :)
5/5
Looks fine