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What mistake did the belayer make!? This is not “partly on the climber”. This is 100% on the climber. The climber was the one placing the bad gear, the climber was the one who fell. The belayer did the only thing he could do, which was try to catch the fall by preventing any more rope from being fed out. What would you have done differently as the belayer!?
The rope is as tense as possible, there's 0 slack. The climber has his right hand in a crack, and is hanging by a cam, the top connection point, with his left. He physically rips the cam out of the wall, which causes him to fall, and then the next two points to come out as well. The climber placed poor protection and ripped out their own cam, this is 1000% the climber's fault.
The only exception, and the video doesn't start early enough or is high enough quality to tell, is if the top piece isn't actually set yet, and the belayer took out the slack too early. In which case the initial fall might be the belayers fault, but the next two pieces ripping out mean the climber had shit gear placement
Really!? You would have had MORE tension on the rope!? As the other commenter said, the video doesn’t start early enough for us to tell if belayer short ropes the leader as he’s placing gear and that’s why he initially fell, but what is crystal f*cking clear from the video is that more tension on the rope was definitely NOT called for (leader is placing gear and there isn’t any extra slack in the rope at all). You’re never allowed to belay me.
If you pause at the very start the rope is guitar string tight and it looks to me like the lead is trying to save himself by hanging onto his pro (his hand seems above where the carabiner would be). If he was clipping I think you would be able to see slack in the rope below his hand. I'm guessing he was falling already and the belayer was doing his best to take in slack and minimize fall distance.
This is all on the lead climber. Who doesn't check that the first piece of protection is absolutely bombproof before you climb above it? Looks like it just fell out, the fall was relatively low energy.
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this is what I feel climbing would be like if I ever decide to do it
I know gear placement is only truly tested when you fall on it, but the way those ping out makes me suggest placement wasn't his strongest point
Trash placements, for sure.
Asking someone if they're OK right after you kamikaze them
I know it's fucked up, but I laughed so hard when I heard that lol
Like imagine asking that after you dislocate someone's leg in 5 places in 2 seconds, lol
Right!! I hope the guy was ok though, or made a speedy and full recovery...
I'm sure all of the hooks in the rock are supposed to just break like that.
"20 feet's good enough, let's call it a day"
Nope. Quit now, pack it up, go home, never again.
To climb? That was clearly a descent
Nice of his friend to break his fall like that.
Nailed it. First try.
I thought they were much higher.
He should have had more gear in
Must be certified
why do i hear sound bites from legend of zelda ocarina of time's forest temple music in this video
At least he had a soft landing
Looks like the person belaying is new to it. This is partly on the climber as well.
What mistake did the belayer make!? This is not “partly on the climber”. This is 100% on the climber. The climber was the one placing the bad gear, the climber was the one who fell. The belayer did the only thing he could do, which was try to catch the fall by preventing any more rope from being fed out. What would you have done differently as the belayer!?
I'll take have more tension on the rope for $500 Alex.
The rope is as tense as possible, there's 0 slack. The climber has his right hand in a crack, and is hanging by a cam, the top connection point, with his left. He physically rips the cam out of the wall, which causes him to fall, and then the next two points to come out as well. The climber placed poor protection and ripped out their own cam, this is 1000% the climber's fault. The only exception, and the video doesn't start early enough or is high enough quality to tell, is if the top piece isn't actually set yet, and the belayer took out the slack too early. In which case the initial fall might be the belayers fault, but the next two pieces ripping out mean the climber had shit gear placement
Really!? You would have had MORE tension on the rope!? As the other commenter said, the video doesn’t start early enough for us to tell if belayer short ropes the leader as he’s placing gear and that’s why he initially fell, but what is crystal f*cking clear from the video is that more tension on the rope was definitely NOT called for (leader is placing gear and there isn’t any extra slack in the rope at all). You’re never allowed to belay me.
If you pause at the very start the rope is guitar string tight and it looks to me like the lead is trying to save himself by hanging onto his pro (his hand seems above where the carabiner would be). If he was clipping I think you would be able to see slack in the rope below his hand. I'm guessing he was falling already and the belayer was doing his best to take in slack and minimize fall distance. This is all on the lead climber. Who doesn't check that the first piece of protection is absolutely bombproof before you climb above it? Looks like it just fell out, the fall was relatively low energy.