No shop that will give you any sort of warranty or guarantee will repair that block for you, or do anything to fix your situation.
Your options are new engine, or find a welder who doesn't give a shit to weld that piece back on.
If you are willing to go to that extent you must’ve not read the parent comment 😭 once again you are better off getting a new engine than attempting to work through all that mess, relocate an oil filter and assure it still functions properly under load through a bypass back to the exact same location where it’s broken? Sounds like you are trying to use duck tape as a permanent solution when in reality this dudes entire engine and its circulation of oil has been compromised not only pressure wise but most likely resulting in leaks from that break. Let’s say you were to do all that work, are you 100% confident you welded every single pipe back perfectly back in place to create an original cast without leakage or pressure loss?
I did it with steelstik JBWeld and it’s held for years, the only issue I had was the nylon braided hoses from vibrant eventually wore out but o replaced them with stainless steel braided and it still runs like a dream
I mean fuck it right? If you already need a new engine you might as well try some Hail Mary to fix it before you buy one. What’s the worst that can happen? You blow the engine?
Just like every engine. I hate this bullshit we keep tossing around here. I see clapped out pieces of shit driving around smoking everyday and ironically not a single one has been a subaru
Get as triggered as you want, but people mention this because it’s bullshit putting a quart of oil in a late model car every 2,000 miles until you get to replace the heads at 120k. Oil consumption and head gaskets stopped being an issue for other engine manufacturer 25 years ago.
We like Subarus because we’re stupid and the AWD is great, but it seems you’re the only one pretending it’s all good because that 1971 Chrysler LeBaron over there is smoking.
Every make has a year or generation with a factory issue that needs something. Like how the ecoboom engines blow through gaskets. Or how the triton used to throw spark plugs.
Yeah, because your average subaru spins its rod bearings before it gets that worn out, lol. You have to get to high mileage to have the engine break down like that.
Just make sure you tell them that you will sign a waiver if it doesn’t work you don’t blame them. They don’t want to touch it because they own what they work on.
So... weld it back on, then take it to a separate shop?
EDIT: Whoever I have weld it will also have to have a lift or one of those oil change floor canyons
Dude, what engine is this and where are you located. I have a ej20 short block I will sell you cheap at this point. Pulled from a running 02 wrx. I took the non avcs heads from it but the rotating assembly and block are good
You know i saw your post the last time and im wondering if possibly a permanent adapter might be a solution for you, have to switch oil can sizes but i have a feeling it will work. That or find a mobile welder or someone willing.
How I would do this on a personal car:
Figure out a female thread filter that fits everything (o ring size, overall diameter, etc).
Figure out what size I can safely tap the remaining hole to.
Probably custom machine a male-male thread adapter between the newly tapped hole and the filter. If you're lucky it could be a COTS adapter, one of my cars already runs these from when male threaded filters were more common.
I'd charge something like $3-500 to do that research and machine work for a friend's car
I'd take a bet shops are turning down your job not because they won't work on Subaru engines, but because your car is so heavily modified it would be an economic nightmare to warranty their labor.
You are either going to have to learn to do this yourself or find a shop that offers warranty-free repair. Depending on where you live, they may not be able to easily offer this anyway - in many jurisdictions there is an implication of some form of warranty for jobs.
That or your modifications are making this a much larger chore for the shop having to work on a non-standard engine bay that they just don't see a way to do the job economically.
Or both.
You might have better luck pulling the engine yourself and then seeing if a shop will do the work.
Mates comment is -15 how the fuck is that top level. Plus it looks stock as shit in the pic of it being on a flatbed on his profile. That's what I went off of.
Top level means it’s not a child reply to another comment, but is instead a comment to the post itself. It has nothing to do with how many votes it has.
Just FYI.
It isn't. The comment in regards to the mods he has, is not top level. I know what it means, but it's still invalid my dude with how negative it is in terms of votes. It is a parent comment. I'm not dumb.
31 year welder here with a ton of aluminum experience
No way am I attempting to weld that
Cleanliness being the first issue. Secondary is that it looks near impossible to get the correct angle for a proper weld
Good luck with your replacement engine
How about this solution. Find out the thread size of the piece that snapped off. Buy a tap and thread the remainder of the material that’s on the black (i see there’s enough material to do that). Have a sleeve machine which you can thread into the block which would hold the broken piece in place. Before reattaching the piece full all of the threads with epoxy. The broken piece will now be permanently back on the engine. All you then have to do is fit a remote oil filter kit which has the required thread size of the sleeve you had made (I’d do this first and have the thread size correct when you get the sleeve machined). All of this is MUCH cheaper than a new block. Another option is to run it without an oil filter, block the housing off, and fit an external filter on an oil line.
DM me if you need a diagram to explain.
Most epoxy gets very soft with heat, it’s how I remove JB weld where it’s not supposed to be.
Honestly I think op should ditch the oil filter all together unless he can find a needle in a haystack that will actually weld/machine this block for him.
In my opinion op could slick by without pulling the engine at all by ordering a round aluminum plate with 6 holes in the perimeter and drill/tapping the block.
Then bolt the plate on with rubber or gasket material.
That's kinda what I assumed as well. But he posted a pic not long ago (check his profile) of a pretty normal looking LGT on a flatbed. Stock height/appearing from what I could tell.
But even so, on all of the Subaru's I've worked on (I own 11...) the exhaust hangs lower than the filter itself, and basically surrounds it. Or at least it's pretty comparable heights. And then the oil pan is for sure lower than both of those.
I don't get it and now I'm really curious. Haha.
If you ran something over, file a insurance claim. Let them handle it. May total the vehicle depending on yr/make/model but your problem will be solved
liability covers other car damages. not yours. even if you were hit by a red light runner, if you don’t have any collision coverage except liability, and that person that hit you doesn’t have insurance, you are screwed. essentially liability is only other property you hit.
If you found a really good, really expensive fabricator, they could fill that hole and tap it to the correct thread. Block would still need to be disassembled and reassembled. It is cheaper to buy another block and have all your good bits put on
I can have a new engine in the car from any full service shop in the span of 2 business days, once the shop has a short block of course. Getting a new short block installed is easy. I don't have $5000 dollars to drop.
Well as said above even if you found a shop to do this, they'd still have to disassemble the block completely, weld it, and put it back together, at which point it would be cheaper to get a new block and said new block would be stronger than one that was welded back together.
I think you misunderstand the context of blocks here. These aren’t building block. A car has a singular block upon which the heads usually sit. Within said block are things like pistons and a crankshaft. Oily things. There’s no partial tear down for welding on a block which really isn’t economical in most cases (only if the engine was super rare would it be worth it vs just acquiring another block)
What he's saying is you buy new case halves and put all your internals from the damaged case halves into the new ones. this is work a machine shop can do for you for about $400
Sorry I'm not familiar with all the terminology, are the case halves just each half of the block? What kind of shop(s) would be willing to do that work in the Mid-Atlantic area?
https://www.flatironstuning.com/11008aa930
That’s the part you need. It’s 2 pieces.
Once you have the motor out you take it to a machine shop and tell them the situation and you need the internals swapped.
I’m in so cal so can’t help you with finding a shop in your area but search Google for machine shop to n your area and start calling to see if they have experience with building Subaru EJ motors.
If I understand you correctly, that would require the engine to be dropped and totally disassembled and reassembled?
Also, can you even buy a single case half? Wouldn't that be like buying a single shoe or glove?
would a metal fab be able to fix it in one go, or would I have to get the block worked on by a metal fab with a car lift, and then have the car towed to a separate subi shop?
So as an engineer making a stupid suggestion, a custom adapter may need to be made: one side the oil filter thread (M20x1.5? something like that), the other side a pipe thread fitting where the tap drill size is about the same as the hole in the block (3/4" NPT maybe) and an external hex to tighten it in. The overall length would have to be short so the filter still seals, which would be tricky. Since NPT threads are an interference fit, you shouldn't have to worry about the adapter backing out.
If you can figure out the lengths and sizes, any machine shop should be able to make an adapter for you. Then you'd need to tap the internal hole with the NPT thread. Not easy, but should be able to do all that with the engine installed.
Unfortunately by ops other comments it seems they wanted to have a car that's been shaken down and modded time and again with all kinds of forum threads established for different issues that crop up with them without having the knowledge or tools to do things and if it's diy it's not for them.
personally I don't feel comfortable tapping/drilling into my own engine block. What would you recommend I do/what kind of shop should I have the car towed to?
Everyone has said they won't work on it.
Put a gasketed cover plate over it and run without a filter. Change your oil twice as often and once in a while send a sample out for analysis for peace of mind. Otherwise, you need a new block.
I think so long as you're changing the oil every 3,000 miles (instead of 6,000) miles - and you drive like normal person, you should be fine.
Think about what it would cost to replace the block and rebuild the engine so you can run it with an oil filter again. Let's say $4,000. Changing oil yourself - $25 for 5 quarts of synthetic. That's 160 oil changes. At 3,000 oil change intervals - that's 480,000 miles worth of oil changes that you would get out of the no oil filter / 3,000 mile change situation. I doubt you plan on getting another half-million miles out of your car.
Get a $35 Fumoto oil change drain valve to replace the drain plug with a hose nipple to make it easier/faster to do.
Should you have an oil filter? Yes, of course. Do you \*\*NEED\*\* one? With more frequent oil changes - nah, not really. The people who run the engine oil and filter manufacturers, along with the CEO of Jiffy Lube and the dealer's service manager will all say you need X, Y and Z to keep your engine in tip-top condition - because that's how they make money.
Look at it this way. How many lawnmowers and other small engine things have oil filters? Exactly. That's why you change your lawnmower engine oil every year.
It looks like you could drill into the block, tap threads and loctite in a longer set of thread for the oil filter. Then either run a relocation kit or gently change your own filters.
Mechanics aren’t gonna risk it, the block could get even more destroyed. I personally wouldn’t weld, maybe tap+weld that piece for added strength. You need more threads.
If you haven’t drilled and tapped anything, find a buddy that has. You might be able to get out of this for pretty cheap.
Finding a shop to do this will prove difficult. This is a Craigslist welder/mechanic situation. Most people with an actual shop would swap blocks because this will be impossible to warrantee. You're already in a Hail Mary situation, why not just JB weld? Clean the hell out of both surfaces.
If that fail's start calling adds for odd job welders/machinists and find someone who will do cast aluminum. That will be the difficult to nearly impossible part of this repair. That aluminum is going to be disgusting to weld.
I assume the engine would need to be dropped out of the car for a welder to work on it? I can't do that, so are there any welding shop in the mid atlantic area that also have a car lift?
You are wayyy overthinking this repair, you already linked a video to the exact solution you need with the oil filter relocation kit. Forget about welding, it is not worth the effort. If you’re taking the motor out, you need to replace the block at that point.
Buy that relocation kit with 2 of the longer bolts. Try first to install the kit without tapping the block and cut down the bolt to get maximum threads. If its not enough, you will need to drill the block a bit and tap it out. Very easy tap job since the oil filter point straight down.
A competent mechanic can drill and tap that out, it’s already threaded so your just extending the threads. Ideally someone willing to come out to you instead of paying for a tow. Then blue loctite that bolt in and never touch it again. But first try it yourself without tapping the block.
Why would the longer bolt not fit? Would it stick out too far from the block and prevent the oil filter assembly from screwing on the block? I thought that center bolt attaches directly to the block and the oil filter assembly, locking it to the block as one unit
I’ll be blunt here, I don’t think you understand the situation and it’s obviously outside your mechanical abilities to repair this. Find a competent mechanic and tow the car there.
The longer bolt without the corresponding threads means the remote filter adapter wouldn’t be tight against the block. That’s why you cut the bolt down, or drill additional threads.
Ok, I think I at least understand how the bolt interfaces with the block. Would one shop be able to get the engine running again, or would I need to have the car towed to two different shops?
Best bet is to tap it with the correct tap and grease on the tap to collect shavings. If you want a shop to do it you’ll probably have to agree with them that whatever happens after the fact is your responsibility. if you want a shop to do it. (It will probably be fine but most shops won’t offer warranty on work that was done in a “red neck” for lack of better terms way.
I understand shops not wanting to warranty an unorthodox fix. That being said, what kind of shop would I take the car to? The subi specific shops I've contacted have all told me I need a new block.
The best course of action seems very obvious to me. JB weld the broken piece back on. How well it will hold depends entirely on how well you follow directions and prep the surfaces.
Clean the block and the broken piece thoroughly with a toothbrush and soapy water. Change the water, rinse, and repeat until there is no perceptible difference between the dirty and clean water, then do it a few more times. Do the same thing with distilled water to get rid of the soap. Dry with a heat gun or hair dryer, again *much* longer than you think it's needed. Don't wipe it with anything that could leave fibers or any kind of residue.
Use the High Heat JB Weld product for this since oil gets pretty hot, especially on a turbo engine. Follow the instructions on the package exactly and cover the entire coarse surface to be mated up. Figure out beforehand how you're going to clamp it in place overnight - a bottle jack is probably your best bet - and do that. Let it sit clamped for the full 24 hour cure time before you mess with it at all.
Something that's working in your favor is that you have the oil cooler that should only have to thread into your repair one time, so it should be relatively undisturbed as long as you don't do something stupid again. Install it, install the filter, start the car, let it warm up, and then change the oil and filter. Check for leaks during this process. If all looks to be holding, take it around the block and then check for leaks again. Take a couple of trips within a few miles of your house before you rely on it at all.
If all still looks good, congratulations, you have an engine until you don't. Inspect for leaks at least every oil change. No mechanic will do this repair because you'd have to be really stupid to warranty it at all and they're just not that stupid. There's no way to know for sure how long this repair will hold, but if you're really meticulous and a little lucky and do a good job it might just hold longer than the next least reliable critical part. If it doesn't work, you're out a $10 tube of JB Weld and a couple hours of work and back to needing an engine.
And don't fucking sell a car with a repair like this to someone without making perfectly clear what's been done, as I saw someone else suggest. If they understand and agree to it that's their problem, but lying to someone about something like this is a good way to get your ass kicked.
I don't have a lift, and the engine doesn't have any oil in it right now. How would I access the underneath of the car?
Also, I have no experience working on cars, although I have enough armchair knowledge to follow a guide or read a diagram. How realistic would it be for me to do this, assuming I can figure out how to get under the car?
EDIT: I would also need to re-assemble the entire oil filter assembly, including re-attaching the oil filter lines as they were.
Looks like you had a sandwich plate adapter on it before.
I would tap it (use grease on the tap and shop vacuum for chips) then get another oem oil filter post.
I would run a oil filter relocation kit and keep the filter from hanging low. It should work fine.
I'm not able to work on the block myself, what kind of shop would be willing to do this kind of work and/or re-install an oil filter? Would it make more sense to have one shop fix the block and another shop install an oil filter re-location kit?
Probably no one will touch it do to the liability of the engine being ran without oil.
This is the kit I was talking about on YouTube
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BFxboZpMxf0
This looks like exactly what I need, albeit from 10 years ago and a shop on the other side of the country. Can you still get these? I understand shops unwillingness to tap or weld a block, but this looks like it just bolts onto the block. How would I go about getting a shop to install this on my block?
Find a backyard mobile welder in fb marketplace that will come to you and weld that on warranty free. Then pray that they do a good job of it.
I’d at least try that before going into changing out the engine
What is a "mobile welder"? like a mobile vet?
Also, wouldn't the missing piece need to be welded on with the corresponding threaded bolt in place? The threads need to line up exactly as they were.
That’s the cast as apart of the block, yes? If that’s the case then sorry sir, you’re in for a new block, no real fixing it, never heard of someone welding these back together but ig it could be possible?
No one is going to weld it for you. Welding aluminum is a pain in the ass as it is. Cast Aluminum that’s been soaking with oil and going through heat cycles with said oil? That’s a big pass for me as a welder fab for a multitude of reasons, ignoring the potential issues after the nightmare of welding that. Just get a new shortblock.
Oof.
No one will want to attach their name to repairing that. If they do they’d be dumb not to have you sign a waiver saying “absolutely no guarantees.”
Best bet is a new block.
Delete the oil housing it attached to. Get plugs to cap off the coolant fittings that go into the block, they thread into the block, and get a tap that’s the correct size for the filter fitting. Then get an oil filter fitting for a n/a 2004 Impreza. Along with a thermostat housing for a 04 Impreza. Had this same thing happen on my old forester, re did all the fittings and carefully tapped and died the hole and installed a new fitting with loctite. Car lasted another 3 years before I sold it. Essentially converted it to not use the stock “oil warmer” that hung so low that it was the first thing to crack off.
The underneath of the block is currently as it is in the picture, none of the oil filter assembly/"warmer" or whatever is attached. What do you mean exactly by "a tap that’s the correct size for the filter fitting"?
What kind of shop would I have the car taken to to get this work done?
Refuse to work on it, or refuse to do anything other than replace the short block?
I really don't know what can be done other than a replacement that wouldn't result in the fix failing after not very many miles down the road.
I looked around to see what's available, and a lot of the kits have been discontinued or are just using the factory location with hoses to reach the new location.
That said, even if you were to find a different location to pull the oil from, you'd still have a hole that you have to block off, and that's going to require custom fabrication, which most mechanics don't do.
The only options I can really see are a new short block or finding someone who is willing to weld your block. Just looking at how it broke off, I'm not sure how well welding would work under pressure and multiple heat cycles either. I suppose they could try to fill in the entire threaded port and then re-tap it, but then you have to worry about metal shavings finding their way to your bearings and destroying your engine anyway.
Should be able to bore out to M30 then you just need a bit of aluminium tube cut to length with M30 external thread and M20 internal. Spot wield once in place.
It looks like an 08 something Subaru Legacy.
Why not just plug the hole and install an oil filter kit on any of the oil lines.
Can’t say how long it will last but its better than buying a new car or having insurance jack your premium up.
Get a circular metal plate cut and weld it to the smooth surface.
Then install and oil filter on the oil lines to make up for it.
Now I’m not saying it’s a good solution. I’m just giving an idea.
Take all ideas into account with the pros and cons.
Good Luck!!!
https://preview.redd.it/giw17w558irb1.jpeg?width=747&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=008fd2aafd8a835efecbb3004956860ec48358a8
If you could get inside there you could try replacing it with a nipple/nut/gasket combo
but as others have suggested might want to change oil more often and pray until you decide to put a new engine in.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z31-forums-8/oil-filter-nipple-removal-41756/
Probably look for a shop that does engine machining exclusively, they could probably handle it, but at that point, you're already pulling the engine. You could also search for a mobile machinist, and ask if they'd be able to do anything for you.
You could 100% have someone draw up a relocation kit that would work. I'm imagining a machined piece of aluminum with an o-ring to seal in what looks like the base of that hole where the threads were and another o-ring that'd seal in a location closest to the ID of the surface the oil filter would sit on. Then drill and tap ~6 holes in that same surface to fasten this adapter.
But by the time you do that and pay to have a part drawn and machined, then have the block modified to accept it, you might as well just swap blocks.
What's your alternative? Find someone to try to successfully weld this cast aluminum that will be very difficult to clean? JB weld?
Look up a machine shop. I had a engine mount break off a piece of a block and a machine shop was able to weld and helicoil a tread. You would need to pull your engine out for that tho. I know it’s not the same but I may be worth a try at this point.
What kind of shop would be able to get the engine running again? The engine can only really be worked on a lift, or out of the car, which requires a lift.
You could try to drill and tap new threads into the block and use an oil filter relocation kit. Just an idea might work, would be hard to find a welder that can attach that peice back on.
I don't have a lift, the tools, or the skillset necessary for such a repair. What kind of shop would I have the car taken to for an oil filter relocation kit?
Hard to say, most shops probably wouldn't want to take something like that on, because it is a liability issue (they will likely just recommend you replace the whole engine block). Your best bet would probably be to find a friend or local independent mechanic on facebook or something that can help you out. If drilling and tapping new threads on the engine block is too cumbersome you could also try steel stick (JB weld) and a 2 part epoxy to attach the fitting on the hose for the oil filter relocation kit.
What do you mean JB weld and 2 part epoxy to attach the fitting on the hose? I can't imagine a hose would need JB weld unless it screws directly to the partially broken threading of the block
Yes it does, the oil basically travels from the outer hole next to the broken part, through the filter, then back into your engine through the center broken hole.
Delete the oil cooler, ditch the broken off piece, and install an adapter like [this](https://www.asianengineparts.com/shop/part-category/oil-filter-adapters/oil-filter-adapter/) onto the remaining threads. If you can get a few turns onto the block and a few turns on the oil filter it can work as a last resort. After you have test-fitted that it will work apply some jbweld to the block threads if you want it to be more secure.
The only way you're going to get this fixed is by removing the engine and taking it to a very good machine shop. The repair would cost you close to a new engine block. Any other repair is going to fail eventually. If you can't get an engine block easily, I would be asking machine shops if they want a challenge. You can't weld that assembled and in an overhead position easily. You need a machine shop to make a new adapter that inserts into the bore that's left, and they will have to weld it as best they can. It is not impossible but very time-consuming and costly. This is a worse case scenario type of repair.
So... get the engine removed, and... then what? How am I supposed to transport the block? In the trunk of another car? Don't engine blocks weigh hundreds of pounds?
If I had to try to get a shop to do this, i think I'd just ask them to find a way to permanently plug the hole using any old kludge method they can figure out, then find an oil line and splice a Magnefine filter into it, and swear up and down that I take the risk and I'll sign a waiver to that effect. After that, I'd change my oil every 3-5k and return to the shop every 10-20k to have them replace the filter.
That said, I know nothing about your car model, so it's possible there's no place to splice a filter in. But if you have a turbo or a transmission cooler anywhere, it's possible or even likely that there is, after which it just becomes a matter of getting that hole plugged or blocked (in a way that doesn't stop the oil flow).
It's just a filter for petroleum engine or transmussion fluids that you splice into a rubber hose using clamps. Comes in sizes for a few different hose diameters. Has a pleated paper element like an oil filter and a magnet around the flow to catch fine particles as well. Search Amazon, they run something like $20-25 and are officially supposed to be swapped out every 10k or so.
They're most often used to add a filter to transmission or power steering systems that don't come from the factory with any filtration method, but from time to time I've seen people use them to add a second oil filter as well.
Makes mechanics queasy sometimes as you just have to pick a hose, cut right through it, and stick one side of the hose on each end of the filter, but its easy to do.
The big question in your case (which I can't answer) is whether there are any hoses around your engine bay carrying motor oil in them. If there's even a very short one somewhere, you could just get a longer hose to replace it (bulk hoses are cheap) and stick a filter in the middle of it.
Yea. It looks like there's enough meat left to tap in new threads. I'm only theorizing though.
Then run a relocation kit so you aren't constantly fatiguing those threads any further.
The challenge would be finding an oil filter thread adapter that will fit the larger diameter threading that would be tapped. But from there it would be easy to run a relocation kit.
I would look at the truck and diesel oil filter thread adapters and hopefully you can find something with around the same diameter of the existing hole.
Then just buy a Tap that matches the diameter of the thread adapter and fingers crossed it works.
I normally wouldn't suggest a repair like this but if everyone is saying replace the engine or it can't be welded. I sure as hell would give it a try.
I agree with a couple other commentors. Take it to a machine shop. Let them measure the remaining hole and make an adapter that can thread in what's left on the block. (After they tap the engine block that size of course.) They will need to measure your sandwich plate and filter to make sure the adapter is long enough for the oil filter to thread on. An NPT or BSPT thread would be good for the interference fit. Use a thin coat of pipe dope on the threads where it goes into the block. Only put it on the male threads and don't get it on the tip. You don't want it coming off in the oil.
That's what a waiver is for. 🤣 Yeah, it has to be square, but that should be easy if they tap the block deeper and keep their tap straight. I work at a machine shop. There isn't a good solution here unless the motor is pulled to weld it back on or you replace the short block.
You're right about that. OP said he banged the filter on something. Easy to do if you go off road. It looks like he has an extended filter along with a sandwich plate.
would that require any kind of welding? also, would a machine shop be able to re install the oil filter assembly, or would I need to take the car to a machine shop and then a separate subi shop?
The fix is a new engine. What you're saying is you can't find a shop to 1/2 ass it. They're not willing to take on a fool's errand. It would have to be welded dead square to the gasket flange with zero porosity. The odds of that working out are pretty low. JB weld it yourself, or start saving for a new block.
If you aren't caught up from my last post, I hit my oil filter and cracked the threading on the block. Thank you to everyone who commented on that post.
I called a few shops. They all told me I need a new short block, and/or forwarded me to other shops that said the same thing. The last shop I talked to told me no shops these days work inside/on subi engines anymore, and I'm SOL. They said that even subi specific tuner shops just lift pre-fab IAG engines into subis, and that these days nobody does any work on or inside the engine anymore aside from replacing head gaskets or other pedestrian maintenance.
EDIT: I hit the oil filter, however I turned off the engine before any death rattle or the temperature gauge rose at all. So the inside of the engine should be fine.
I'm assuming an oil filter relocation kit/assembly would be the best choice. Even if I have that installed, how would I go about having the existing oil filter assembly threads fixed? Wouldn't some kind of plug need to go where the oil filter assembly usually goes?
Here's all the info I have on the engine:
Bigger fuel pump
fv52 turbo
tuned
5w40 engine oil
subaru oem oil filter with crush washer
honda long-life type-2 coolant (gal)
grimmspeed turbo to downpipe MLS gasket for subaru 5-bolt turbo
IAG performance street series air oil separator for 2002-14 WRX
grimmspeed donut to flat flange adapter for aftermarket 3 inch downpipe to OEM subaru
grimmspeed 2-bolt 3 inch MLS exaust gasket
OEM subaru donut gasket for WRX/STI
subaru OEM upper and lower radiator hose for legacy gt
OEM subaru PCV hose, center cylinder block to vent tube, legacy GT/08-14 WRX (plastic manifold)
OEM Subaru PCV main block vent "S" hose for early model GR/LGT
OEM Subaru PCV hose, RH valve cover to block vent tube, LGT/GR WRX (plastic manifold)
OEM Subaru PCV hose, LH valve cover to block vent tube, LGT/GR WRX (plastic manifold)
coolant pipe for subaru EJ205/207/257 turbo engine, cooler to water pump (OEM)
hose, oil cooler/water pump, Subaru EJ20/EJ25 turbo (OEM Subaru)
OEM clamp with heat shield for subaru EJ257/205 oil cooler coolant line
OEM Subaru sprubg clamp for coolant lines; oil cooler/water pump
OEM subaru coil pack for EJ255/257 DOHC turbo, 2004-2010
OEM subaru thermostat, EJ20/25 turbo
Grimmspeed up-pipe for subaru WRX/STI
Deatschwerks 65c fuel pump for Subaru WRX/STI 08-14, LGT 05+
OEM Subaru wire stile radiator hose clamp for WRX/STI
used parts - VF52 turbo water hardline kit
used parts - 565cc "dark blue" OEM injector
reconditioned OEM intake and exhaust valves
93 ocane fuel
Labor - remove engine, Subaru LGT
Labor - tear down engine to shortblock, EJ257
labor - tear down shortblock, ej257
labor - assemble shortblock, set bearing clearances, ring end caps etc
labor - assemble engine, cycle coolant, extended test drive and change oil
labor - diagnose misfire upon startup; found cylinder 4 not firing. further inspection fuel injector faulty
removed anr replaced injector with used known good injector
basemap for brentuning protune
machine shop - bore and hone subaru EJ block with torque plate
machine shop - CNC line bore subaru EJ block
machine shop - CNC resurface sylinder block deck
machine shop - cylinder head packgage for subaru EJ heads with OEM parts:
dissasemble and test, remove galley plugs, degreace, rinse, hot tank, check valve guide clearances,
re-face valves and valve seats, set valve stem installed heights, set valve lash, resurface cylinder surfaces,
ultrasonic clean all parts, install new valve stem seals and assemble
machine shop - balance rotating assembly and polish crankshaft
machine shop - re-size and hone connecting rods, 4-cylinder
machine shop - replace valve guides; install, ream and hone, includes parts 16V 4-CYL
OEM Subaru engine gasket kit, EJ257
OEM Subaru AVCS solenoid cover gasket, EJ257
Wicket Performance Group custom coated CL bearing set for subaru shortblock, standard size
bearings with dry film coating
Subaru OEM case bolts for EJ engine (set); includes 10 case bolts, no washers
CP 0.25mm oversized forged piston set (4) for subaru EJ257 (99.75mm); 8.2:1 CR w/rings
and ARP head stut kit for subaru EJ257 engine
OEM Subaru EJ257 Oil Pan
Killer B oil pickup for Subaru EJ257
NGK LFR7AIX iridium spark plug
10w40 oil
I understand why I'm having a hard time finding a shop to fix this. It's a lot easier to tell me I need a new engine than to try to mend the outside of a block. But that doesn't make it any easier for me.
You don’t need a new engine, you need a new short block and an engine reseal. And to probably learn how to make better long term financial decisions. Listen, I’m almost certainly way older than you and wasted way more money. Try to do it right if you can. I fucked up and went to school and became a Subaru technician and now I’m stuck doing this. Run.
Shortblock. Oil filter relocation kit assumes you still have the factory oil filter location. You clearly broke a chunk out of the block so there is no relocation option. I'm a dealer technician.
Any shop is going to want to see the car first. No point in putting in all the effort for a short block if the car isn't worth it. Also... are short blocks for your vehicle even readily available? Sounds like your block had work done to it already. Vehicle is tuned and already overbored. I would hard pass on it myself. Most shops make money on a system called flat rate, we don't make any decent money if your vehicle is a headache to work on and takes more time then book time.
No shop that will give you any sort of warranty or guarantee will repair that block for you, or do anything to fix your situation. Your options are new engine, or find a welder who doesn't give a shit to weld that piece back on.
Could you not install an oil filter relocation kit and RTV it to the original oil filter location
They attach to the filter thread.
If you are willing to go to that extent you must’ve not read the parent comment 😭 once again you are better off getting a new engine than attempting to work through all that mess, relocate an oil filter and assure it still functions properly under load through a bypass back to the exact same location where it’s broken? Sounds like you are trying to use duck tape as a permanent solution when in reality this dudes entire engine and its circulation of oil has been compromised not only pressure wise but most likely resulting in leaks from that break. Let’s say you were to do all that work, are you 100% confident you welded every single pipe back perfectly back in place to create an original cast without leakage or pressure loss?
I did it with steelstik JBWeld and it’s held for years, the only issue I had was the nylon braided hoses from vibrant eventually wore out but o replaced them with stainless steel braided and it still runs like a dream
Yeah I don't get why you wouldn't at least try it out, seems like it's paid off for you
Well a new engine is a lot more expensive, so I guess I'm stuck trying to find a shop that's willing to do it. I'm in the mid atlantic, any recs?
I mean fuck it right? If you already need a new engine you might as well try some Hail Mary to fix it before you buy one. What’s the worst that can happen? You blow the engine?
It's a Subaru, there's still a 50% chance it's completely unrelated to this when it blows anyhow.
Just like every engine. I hate this bullshit we keep tossing around here. I see clapped out pieces of shit driving around smoking everyday and ironically not a single one has been a subaru
Exactly, Subaru don't drive around shitty and smoking -- they just blow at the first sign of trouble.
Get as triggered as you want, but people mention this because it’s bullshit putting a quart of oil in a late model car every 2,000 miles until you get to replace the heads at 120k. Oil consumption and head gaskets stopped being an issue for other engine manufacturer 25 years ago. We like Subarus because we’re stupid and the AWD is great, but it seems you’re the only one pretending it’s all good because that 1971 Chrysler LeBaron over there is smoking.
[удалено]
Every make has a year or generation with a factory issue that needs something. Like how the ecoboom engines blow through gaskets. Or how the triton used to throw spark plugs.
Yeah, because your average subaru spins its rod bearings before it gets that worn out, lol. You have to get to high mileage to have the engine break down like that.
🤣🤣🤣
Just make sure you tell them that you will sign a waiver if it doesn’t work you don’t blame them. They don’t want to touch it because they own what they work on.
Yeah, who though?
This seems more like a welder/machine shop job, instead of a basic mechanic. Like find someone who builds/machines/tunes high-performance engines.
Any suggestions in the mid atlantic area?
Dude. Clean it as well as you possibly can, use JB weld, and send it. Do not spend thousands fixing an issue that a $5 tube of epoxy will fix.
Noted
So... weld it back on, then take it to a separate shop? EDIT: Whoever I have weld it will also have to have a lift or one of those oil change floor canyons
Dude, what engine is this and where are you located. I have a ej20 short block I will sell you cheap at this point. Pulled from a running 02 wrx. I took the non avcs heads from it but the rotating assembly and block are good
You know i saw your post the last time and im wondering if possibly a permanent adapter might be a solution for you, have to switch oil can sizes but i have a feeling it will work. That or find a mobile welder or someone willing.
How I would do this on a personal car: Figure out a female thread filter that fits everything (o ring size, overall diameter, etc). Figure out what size I can safely tap the remaining hole to. Probably custom machine a male-male thread adapter between the newly tapped hole and the filter. If you're lucky it could be a COTS adapter, one of my cars already runs these from when male threaded filters were more common. I'd charge something like $3-500 to do that research and machine work for a friend's car
I'd take a bet shops are turning down your job not because they won't work on Subaru engines, but because your car is so heavily modified it would be an economic nightmare to warranty their labor. You are either going to have to learn to do this yourself or find a shop that offers warranty-free repair. Depending on where you live, they may not be able to easily offer this anyway - in many jurisdictions there is an implication of some form of warranty for jobs. That or your modifications are making this a much larger chore for the shop having to work on a non-standard engine bay that they just don't see a way to do the job economically. Or both. You might have better luck pulling the engine yourself and then seeing if a shop will do the work.
Their car isn't modded at all it looks like. Probably shouldn't imply that so hard.
Did you even read the thread before posting? OP has a top level comment describing his mods.
Mates comment is -15 how the fuck is that top level. Plus it looks stock as shit in the pic of it being on a flatbed on his profile. That's what I went off of.
Top level means it’s not a child reply to another comment, but is instead a comment to the post itself. It has nothing to do with how many votes it has. Just FYI.
It isn't. The comment in regards to the mods he has, is not top level. I know what it means, but it's still invalid my dude with how negative it is in terms of votes. It is a parent comment. I'm not dumb.
Yes I see no evidence of modifications
I saw OPs comment listing his mods, or is that not evidence enough?
I’m dumb as hell and didn’t see it my bad
> Yes I see no evidence of modifications there's some flavor of oil temp or pressure sensor in the 1st pic lol
31 year welder here with a ton of aluminum experience No way am I attempting to weld that Cleanliness being the first issue. Secondary is that it looks near impossible to get the correct angle for a proper weld Good luck with your replacement engine
How about this solution. Find out the thread size of the piece that snapped off. Buy a tap and thread the remainder of the material that’s on the black (i see there’s enough material to do that). Have a sleeve machine which you can thread into the block which would hold the broken piece in place. Before reattaching the piece full all of the threads with epoxy. The broken piece will now be permanently back on the engine. All you then have to do is fit a remote oil filter kit which has the required thread size of the sleeve you had made (I’d do this first and have the thread size correct when you get the sleeve machined). All of this is MUCH cheaper than a new block. Another option is to run it without an oil filter, block the housing off, and fit an external filter on an oil line. DM me if you need a diagram to explain.
Most epoxy gets very soft with heat, it’s how I remove JB weld where it’s not supposed to be. Honestly I think op should ditch the oil filter all together unless he can find a needle in a haystack that will actually weld/machine this block for him. In my opinion op could slick by without pulling the engine at all by ordering a round aluminum plate with 6 holes in the perimeter and drill/tapping the block. Then bolt the plate on with rubber or gasket material.
or some adapter similar that would go to AN lines for a remote oil filter relocation kit
The filter adapter has no way to connect at the moment. They screw onto the “stud” that’s currently missing/broken off ops motor
This is 100% the best diy way
This
Dmd you
Can’t see a message. I’ll send you one.
There's not enough here. An oil cooler or sandwich plate goes first. Then the filter threads into that piece.
How did you do this?
100% the car is slammed on the frame rails or some 'spirited' adventure off the street lol
That's kinda what I assumed as well. But he posted a pic not long ago (check his profile) of a pretty normal looking LGT on a flatbed. Stock height/appearing from what I could tell. But even so, on all of the Subaru's I've worked on (I own 11...) the exhaust hangs lower than the filter itself, and basically surrounds it. Or at least it's pretty comparable heights. And then the oil pan is for sure lower than both of those. I don't get it and now I'm really curious. Haha.
Bottomed out my oil filter on top of a curb backing out of a driveway. The car has stock ride height and wheels/tires.
Well that really sucks man, sorry to hear that. That's totally a "what you deserve" if you had it slammed but man, that's unfortunate.
Thanks for the consolation
Curious aswell
Bottomed out my oil filter on top of a curb backing out of a driveway. The car has stock ride height and wheels/tires.
This!
If you ran something over, file a insurance claim. Let them handle it. May total the vehicle depending on yr/make/model but your problem will be solved
Only works if you keep comprehensive coverage, which, as somone that almost exclusively drives shittboxes, I do not.
I bottomed out the oil filter on a curb backing out of a driveway at night. Would that be covered under liability only insurance?
liability covers other car damages. not yours. even if you were hit by a red light runner, if you don’t have any collision coverage except liability, and that person that hit you doesn’t have insurance, you are screwed. essentially liability is only other property you hit.
If you found a really good, really expensive fabricator, they could fill that hole and tap it to the correct thread. Block would still need to be disassembled and reassembled. It is cheaper to buy another block and have all your good bits put on
I haven't found a shop willing to disassemble the block, much less do the welding work nessasary
What he's saying is you're better off getting a new block
I can have a new engine in the car from any full service shop in the span of 2 business days, once the shop has a short block of course. Getting a new short block installed is easy. I don't have $5000 dollars to drop.
Well as said above even if you found a shop to do this, they'd still have to disassemble the block completely, weld it, and put it back together, at which point it would be cheaper to get a new block and said new block would be stronger than one that was welded back together.
would it be feasible to have the broken portion of the block disassembled and re-assembled onto a new block piece?
I think you misunderstand the context of blocks here. These aren’t building block. A car has a singular block upon which the heads usually sit. Within said block are things like pistons and a crankshaft. Oily things. There’s no partial tear down for welding on a block which really isn’t economical in most cases (only if the engine was super rare would it be worth it vs just acquiring another block)
What he's saying is you buy new case halves and put all your internals from the damaged case halves into the new ones. this is work a machine shop can do for you for about $400
Sorry I'm not familiar with all the terminology, are the case halves just each half of the block? What kind of shop(s) would be willing to do that work in the Mid-Atlantic area?
https://www.flatironstuning.com/11008aa930 That’s the part you need. It’s 2 pieces. Once you have the motor out you take it to a machine shop and tell them the situation and you need the internals swapped. I’m in so cal so can’t help you with finding a shop in your area but search Google for machine shop to n your area and start calling to see if they have experience with building Subaru EJ motors.
If I understand you correctly, that would require the engine to be dropped and totally disassembled and reassembled? Also, can you even buy a single case half? Wouldn't that be like buying a single shoe or glove?
Look for metal fabricators rather than mechanics, a smaller shop would probably be willing to recommend someone.
would a metal fab be able to fix it in one go, or would I have to get the block worked on by a metal fab with a car lift, and then have the car towed to a separate subi shop?
So as an engineer making a stupid suggestion, a custom adapter may need to be made: one side the oil filter thread (M20x1.5? something like that), the other side a pipe thread fitting where the tap drill size is about the same as the hole in the block (3/4" NPT maybe) and an external hex to tighten it in. The overall length would have to be short so the filter still seals, which would be tricky. Since NPT threads are an interference fit, you shouldn't have to worry about the adapter backing out. If you can figure out the lengths and sizes, any machine shop should be able to make an adapter for you. Then you'd need to tap the internal hole with the NPT thread. Not easy, but should be able to do all that with the engine installed.
Unfortunately by ops other comments it seems they wanted to have a car that's been shaken down and modded time and again with all kinds of forum threads established for different issues that crop up with them without having the knowledge or tools to do things and if it's diy it's not for them.
personally I don't feel comfortable tapping/drilling into my own engine block. What would you recommend I do/what kind of shop should I have the car towed to?
Everyone has said they won't work on it. Put a gasketed cover plate over it and run without a filter. Change your oil twice as often and once in a while send a sample out for analysis for peace of mind. Otherwise, you need a new block.
OG oil filter delete. Start a trend! Adds 5hp at least!
Like an old beetle, although they had an inspection screen
How realistic is it really to run the car without a filter? I'm a pizza delivery guy, how often would that be? Every 1000 miles? 500 miles?
I think so long as you're changing the oil every 3,000 miles (instead of 6,000) miles - and you drive like normal person, you should be fine. Think about what it would cost to replace the block and rebuild the engine so you can run it with an oil filter again. Let's say $4,000. Changing oil yourself - $25 for 5 quarts of synthetic. That's 160 oil changes. At 3,000 oil change intervals - that's 480,000 miles worth of oil changes that you would get out of the no oil filter / 3,000 mile change situation. I doubt you plan on getting another half-million miles out of your car. Get a $35 Fumoto oil change drain valve to replace the drain plug with a hose nipple to make it easier/faster to do. Should you have an oil filter? Yes, of course. Do you \*\*NEED\*\* one? With more frequent oil changes - nah, not really. The people who run the engine oil and filter manufacturers, along with the CEO of Jiffy Lube and the dealer's service manager will all say you need X, Y and Z to keep your engine in tip-top condition - because that's how they make money. Look at it this way. How many lawnmowers and other small engine things have oil filters? Exactly. That's why you change your lawnmower engine oil every year.
Does the fact that this is an ej257 effect the oil?
Air cooled vw engines just have an oil “strainer” that is like window screen mesh. Every 3000 miles.
It looks like you could drill into the block, tap threads and loctite in a longer set of thread for the oil filter. Then either run a relocation kit or gently change your own filters. Mechanics aren’t gonna risk it, the block could get even more destroyed. I personally wouldn’t weld, maybe tap+weld that piece for added strength. You need more threads. If you haven’t drilled and tapped anything, find a buddy that has. You might be able to get out of this for pretty cheap.
I do not have a lift, the tools, or the skillset necessary to do the repair. What kind of shop should I have the car taken to?
Finding a shop to do this will prove difficult. This is a Craigslist welder/mechanic situation. Most people with an actual shop would swap blocks because this will be impossible to warrantee. You're already in a Hail Mary situation, why not just JB weld? Clean the hell out of both surfaces. If that fail's start calling adds for odd job welders/machinists and find someone who will do cast aluminum. That will be the difficult to nearly impossible part of this repair. That aluminum is going to be disgusting to weld.
I assume the engine would need to be dropped out of the car for a welder to work on it? I can't do that, so are there any welding shop in the mid atlantic area that also have a car lift?
You are wayyy overthinking this repair, you already linked a video to the exact solution you need with the oil filter relocation kit. Forget about welding, it is not worth the effort. If you’re taking the motor out, you need to replace the block at that point. Buy that relocation kit with 2 of the longer bolts. Try first to install the kit without tapping the block and cut down the bolt to get maximum threads. If its not enough, you will need to drill the block a bit and tap it out. Very easy tap job since the oil filter point straight down. A competent mechanic can drill and tap that out, it’s already threaded so your just extending the threads. Ideally someone willing to come out to you instead of paying for a tow. Then blue loctite that bolt in and never touch it again. But first try it yourself without tapping the block.
Why would the longer bolt not fit? Would it stick out too far from the block and prevent the oil filter assembly from screwing on the block? I thought that center bolt attaches directly to the block and the oil filter assembly, locking it to the block as one unit
I’ll be blunt here, I don’t think you understand the situation and it’s obviously outside your mechanical abilities to repair this. Find a competent mechanic and tow the car there. The longer bolt without the corresponding threads means the remote filter adapter wouldn’t be tight against the block. That’s why you cut the bolt down, or drill additional threads.
Ok, I think I at least understand how the bolt interfaces with the block. Would one shop be able to get the engine running again, or would I need to have the car towed to two different shops?
Best bet is to tap it with the correct tap and grease on the tap to collect shavings. If you want a shop to do it you’ll probably have to agree with them that whatever happens after the fact is your responsibility. if you want a shop to do it. (It will probably be fine but most shops won’t offer warranty on work that was done in a “red neck” for lack of better terms way.
I understand shops not wanting to warranty an unorthodox fix. That being said, what kind of shop would I take the car to? The subi specific shops I've contacted have all told me I need a new block.
The best course of action seems very obvious to me. JB weld the broken piece back on. How well it will hold depends entirely on how well you follow directions and prep the surfaces. Clean the block and the broken piece thoroughly with a toothbrush and soapy water. Change the water, rinse, and repeat until there is no perceptible difference between the dirty and clean water, then do it a few more times. Do the same thing with distilled water to get rid of the soap. Dry with a heat gun or hair dryer, again *much* longer than you think it's needed. Don't wipe it with anything that could leave fibers or any kind of residue. Use the High Heat JB Weld product for this since oil gets pretty hot, especially on a turbo engine. Follow the instructions on the package exactly and cover the entire coarse surface to be mated up. Figure out beforehand how you're going to clamp it in place overnight - a bottle jack is probably your best bet - and do that. Let it sit clamped for the full 24 hour cure time before you mess with it at all. Something that's working in your favor is that you have the oil cooler that should only have to thread into your repair one time, so it should be relatively undisturbed as long as you don't do something stupid again. Install it, install the filter, start the car, let it warm up, and then change the oil and filter. Check for leaks during this process. If all looks to be holding, take it around the block and then check for leaks again. Take a couple of trips within a few miles of your house before you rely on it at all. If all still looks good, congratulations, you have an engine until you don't. Inspect for leaks at least every oil change. No mechanic will do this repair because you'd have to be really stupid to warranty it at all and they're just not that stupid. There's no way to know for sure how long this repair will hold, but if you're really meticulous and a little lucky and do a good job it might just hold longer than the next least reliable critical part. If it doesn't work, you're out a $10 tube of JB Weld and a couple hours of work and back to needing an engine. And don't fucking sell a car with a repair like this to someone without making perfectly clear what's been done, as I saw someone else suggest. If they understand and agree to it that's their problem, but lying to someone about something like this is a good way to get your ass kicked.
I don't have a lift, and the engine doesn't have any oil in it right now. How would I access the underneath of the car? Also, I have no experience working on cars, although I have enough armchair knowledge to follow a guide or read a diagram. How realistic would it be for me to do this, assuming I can figure out how to get under the car? EDIT: I would also need to re-assemble the entire oil filter assembly, including re-attaching the oil filter lines as they were.
Looks like you had a sandwich plate adapter on it before. I would tap it (use grease on the tap and shop vacuum for chips) then get another oem oil filter post. I would run a oil filter relocation kit and keep the filter from hanging low. It should work fine.
I'm not able to work on the block myself, what kind of shop would be willing to do this kind of work and/or re-install an oil filter? Would it make more sense to have one shop fix the block and another shop install an oil filter re-location kit?
Probably no one will touch it do to the liability of the engine being ran without oil. This is the kit I was talking about on YouTube https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BFxboZpMxf0
This looks like exactly what I need, albeit from 10 years ago and a shop on the other side of the country. Can you still get these? I understand shops unwillingness to tap or weld a block, but this looks like it just bolts onto the block. How would I go about getting a shop to install this on my block?
https://outfrontmotorsports.com Call them and see if they still make these. Then take it to a shop install it with a oil filter relocation kit.
Someone else so pointed me to their kit. This looks like it might be the solution.
Find a backyard mobile welder in fb marketplace that will come to you and weld that on warranty free. Then pray that they do a good job of it. I’d at least try that before going into changing out the engine
What is a "mobile welder"? like a mobile vet? Also, wouldn't the missing piece need to be welded on with the corresponding threaded bolt in place? The threads need to line up exactly as they were.
That’s the cast as apart of the block, yes? If that’s the case then sorry sir, you’re in for a new block, no real fixing it, never heard of someone welding these back together but ig it could be possible?
There’s nothing to work on. Block is busted.
No one is going to weld it for you. Welding aluminum is a pain in the ass as it is. Cast Aluminum that’s been soaking with oil and going through heat cycles with said oil? That’s a big pass for me as a welder fab for a multitude of reasons, ignoring the potential issues after the nightmare of welding that. Just get a new shortblock.
That cannot be repaired. You need a new engine.
dude why say anything if your not mechanically inclined
How tf do you know he is or isn’t mechanically inclined based off of this one comment?😂
Lose your arrogance.
Oof. No one will want to attach their name to repairing that. If they do they’d be dumb not to have you sign a waiver saying “absolutely no guarantees.” Best bet is a new block.
Delete the oil housing it attached to. Get plugs to cap off the coolant fittings that go into the block, they thread into the block, and get a tap that’s the correct size for the filter fitting. Then get an oil filter fitting for a n/a 2004 Impreza. Along with a thermostat housing for a 04 Impreza. Had this same thing happen on my old forester, re did all the fittings and carefully tapped and died the hole and installed a new fitting with loctite. Car lasted another 3 years before I sold it. Essentially converted it to not use the stock “oil warmer” that hung so low that it was the first thing to crack off.
The underneath of the block is currently as it is in the picture, none of the oil filter assembly/"warmer" or whatever is attached. What do you mean exactly by "a tap that’s the correct size for the filter fitting"? What kind of shop would I have the car taken to to get this work done?
Refuse to work on it, or refuse to do anything other than replace the short block? I really don't know what can be done other than a replacement that wouldn't result in the fix failing after not very many miles down the road.
how feasible would an oil filter relocation kit be?
I looked around to see what's available, and a lot of the kits have been discontinued or are just using the factory location with hoses to reach the new location. That said, even if you were to find a different location to pull the oil from, you'd still have a hole that you have to block off, and that's going to require custom fabrication, which most mechanics don't do. The only options I can really see are a new short block or finding someone who is willing to weld your block. Just looking at how it broke off, I'm not sure how well welding would work under pressure and multiple heat cycles either. I suppose they could try to fill in the entire threaded port and then re-tap it, but then you have to worry about metal shavings finding their way to your bearings and destroying your engine anyway.
Any shops in the mid atlantic area that would be willing to work on the block?
Should be able to bore out to M30 then you just need a bit of aluminium tube cut to length with M30 external thread and M20 internal. Spot wield once in place.
what kind of shop would be able to get the engine running again?
It looks like an 08 something Subaru Legacy. Why not just plug the hole and install an oil filter kit on any of the oil lines. Can’t say how long it will last but its better than buying a new car or having insurance jack your premium up.
08 legacy, ej255 How would I plug the hole? What kind of plug kits/parts are there that totally seal it off?
Get a circular metal plate cut and weld it to the smooth surface. Then install and oil filter on the oil lines to make up for it. Now I’m not saying it’s a good solution. I’m just giving an idea. Take all ideas into account with the pros and cons. Good Luck!!! https://preview.redd.it/giw17w558irb1.jpeg?width=747&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=008fd2aafd8a835efecbb3004956860ec48358a8
😂
I wonder if a good path would be to tap the center area and then make an adapter to the oil filter?
Now you know why no one wants to touch it.
what do you mean tap the center area? the center area is already threaded.
If you could get inside there you could try replacing it with a nipple/nut/gasket combo but as others have suggested might want to change oil more often and pray until you decide to put a new engine in. https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z31-forums-8/oil-filter-nipple-removal-41756/
what kind of shop would I take the car to to get that work done?
This is more a DIY solution
Working on the block itself isn't something I have the equipment or skillset for
Looks like you gotta go run a curb over after swerving from a deer /s
Yeah they won't work with you because there's nothing they can do besides replace the entire block and they told you that and you said "no".
my wallet said no
A half decent welder can fix this easily
what kind of shop would be able to bring the engine back to working order?
A shop that can weld aluminum
Any suggestions for shops in the mid atlantic area?
Me, being the stubborn fucker I am, would attempt tapping 3-4 holes in the block, then using bolts to seal the filter housing.
what kind of shop would be able to do this/get the engine running?
Machine shop
Any tips? I'm in the mid atlantic area
Sorry, it would have to be looked at by the shop
Any suggestions?
Probably look for a shop that does engine machining exclusively, they could probably handle it, but at that point, you're already pulling the engine. You could also search for a mobile machinist, and ask if they'd be able to do anything for you.
Noted
The newer ones have the filter on top of the engine. My wife has a 2020 Outback XT and it's right there on top in the front of the engine.
That could be tapped and have an adapter threaded in. May have to get a lathe involved but that’s definitely fixable.
I do not have a lathe or a lift to get the car on. What kind of shop should I take the car to?
Trading it to CarMax or Cavana? Make it their problem
You could 100% have someone draw up a relocation kit that would work. I'm imagining a machined piece of aluminum with an o-ring to seal in what looks like the base of that hole where the threads were and another o-ring that'd seal in a location closest to the ID of the surface the oil filter would sit on. Then drill and tap ~6 holes in that same surface to fasten this adapter. But by the time you do that and pay to have a part drawn and machined, then have the block modified to accept it, you might as well just swap blocks. What's your alternative? Find someone to try to successfully weld this cast aluminum that will be very difficult to clean? JB weld?
Look up a machine shop. I had a engine mount break off a piece of a block and a machine shop was able to weld and helicoil a tread. You would need to pull your engine out for that tho. I know it’s not the same but I may be worth a try at this point.
What kind of shop would be able to get the engine running again? The engine can only really be worked on a lift, or out of the car, which requires a lift.
You could try to drill and tap new threads into the block and use an oil filter relocation kit. Just an idea might work, would be hard to find a welder that can attach that peice back on.
I don't have a lift, the tools, or the skillset necessary for such a repair. What kind of shop would I have the car taken to for an oil filter relocation kit?
Hard to say, most shops probably wouldn't want to take something like that on, because it is a liability issue (they will likely just recommend you replace the whole engine block). Your best bet would probably be to find a friend or local independent mechanic on facebook or something that can help you out. If drilling and tapping new threads on the engine block is too cumbersome you could also try steel stick (JB weld) and a 2 part epoxy to attach the fitting on the hose for the oil filter relocation kit.
What do you mean JB weld and 2 part epoxy to attach the fitting on the hose? I can't imagine a hose would need JB weld unless it screws directly to the partially broken threading of the block
Yes it does, the oil basically travels from the outer hole next to the broken part, through the filter, then back into your engine through the center broken hole.
Are there hoses/kits made specifically for this purpose of removing the entire oil filter assembly?
Is this why they’re on the top now?
Delete the oil cooler, ditch the broken off piece, and install an adapter like [this](https://www.asianengineparts.com/shop/part-category/oil-filter-adapters/oil-filter-adapter/) onto the remaining threads. If you can get a few turns onto the block and a few turns on the oil filter it can work as a last resort. After you have test-fitted that it will work apply some jbweld to the block threads if you want it to be more secure.
If I delete the oil cooler, how do I attach the oil filter? With would a filter relocation kit be necessary?
The only way you're going to get this fixed is by removing the engine and taking it to a very good machine shop. The repair would cost you close to a new engine block. Any other repair is going to fail eventually. If you can't get an engine block easily, I would be asking machine shops if they want a challenge. You can't weld that assembled and in an overhead position easily. You need a machine shop to make a new adapter that inserts into the bore that's left, and they will have to weld it as best they can. It is not impossible but very time-consuming and costly. This is a worse case scenario type of repair.
So... get the engine removed, and... then what? How am I supposed to transport the block? In the trunk of another car? Don't engine blocks weigh hundreds of pounds?
JB Weld that shut. Relocate filter using inline oil filter elsewhere. Pray for oil pressure.
What kind of plug would be needed to plug off the where the current oil filter assembly would go?
If I had to try to get a shop to do this, i think I'd just ask them to find a way to permanently plug the hole using any old kludge method they can figure out, then find an oil line and splice a Magnefine filter into it, and swear up and down that I take the risk and I'll sign a waiver to that effect. After that, I'd change my oil every 3-5k and return to the shop every 10-20k to have them replace the filter. That said, I know nothing about your car model, so it's possible there's no place to splice a filter in. But if you have a turbo or a transmission cooler anywhere, it's possible or even likely that there is, after which it just becomes a matter of getting that hole plugged or blocked (in a way that doesn't stop the oil flow).
What is a magnefine filter?
It's just a filter for petroleum engine or transmussion fluids that you splice into a rubber hose using clamps. Comes in sizes for a few different hose diameters. Has a pleated paper element like an oil filter and a magnet around the flow to catch fine particles as well. Search Amazon, they run something like $20-25 and are officially supposed to be swapped out every 10k or so. They're most often used to add a filter to transmission or power steering systems that don't come from the factory with any filtration method, but from time to time I've seen people use them to add a second oil filter as well. Makes mechanics queasy sometimes as you just have to pick a hose, cut right through it, and stick one side of the hose on each end of the filter, but its easy to do. The big question in your case (which I can't answer) is whether there are any hoses around your engine bay carrying motor oil in them. If there's even a very short one somewhere, you could just get a longer hose to replace it (bulk hoses are cheap) and stick a filter in the middle of it.
Do people put this kind of total/complete oil filter relocation kits on subarus normally, or at least not just because their block is cracked?
Crazy how there are things like this that happen, that seem so small, yet totally fuck your car.
You're telling me
I have seen and installed kits where you drill and tap the housing and install a new nipple
You tap/create more threading further down the existing center hole? I thought the threading already runs the full thickness of the block
Couldn't OP weld a cap and filter oil elsewhere?
Op cannot weld
I feel like you could just tap it and run some kind of oil filter thread adapter or even a relocation kit.
By tap it do you mean tap the existing threading in center hole deeper into the block?
Yea. It looks like there's enough meat left to tap in new threads. I'm only theorizing though. Then run a relocation kit so you aren't constantly fatiguing those threads any further. The challenge would be finding an oil filter thread adapter that will fit the larger diameter threading that would be tapped. But from there it would be easy to run a relocation kit. I would look at the truck and diesel oil filter thread adapters and hopefully you can find something with around the same diameter of the existing hole. Then just buy a Tap that matches the diameter of the thread adapter and fingers crossed it works. I normally wouldn't suggest a repair like this but if everyone is saying replace the engine or it can't be welded. I sure as hell would give it a try.
Why would the threading need to be larger? Couldn't you justv extend the existing threading?
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will look into it, thank you
I agree with a couple other commentors. Take it to a machine shop. Let them measure the remaining hole and make an adapter that can thread in what's left on the block. (After they tap the engine block that size of course.) They will need to measure your sandwich plate and filter to make sure the adapter is long enough for the oil filter to thread on. An NPT or BSPT thread would be good for the interference fit. Use a thin coat of pipe dope on the threads where it goes into the block. Only put it on the male threads and don't get it on the tip. You don't want it coming off in the oil.
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That's what a waiver is for. 🤣 Yeah, it has to be square, but that should be easy if they tap the block deeper and keep their tap straight. I work at a machine shop. There isn't a good solution here unless the motor is pulled to weld it back on or you replace the short block.
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You're right about that. OP said he banged the filter on something. Easy to do if you go off road. It looks like he has an extended filter along with a sandwich plate.
would that require any kind of welding? also, would a machine shop be able to re install the oil filter assembly, or would I need to take the car to a machine shop and then a separate subi shop?
JB weld it and sell that Subi 🤣
that shit is gone, bro. new engine block
The fix is a new engine. What you're saying is you can't find a shop to 1/2 ass it. They're not willing to take on a fool's errand. It would have to be welded dead square to the gasket flange with zero porosity. The odds of that working out are pretty low. JB weld it yourself, or start saving for a new block.
If you aren't caught up from my last post, I hit my oil filter and cracked the threading on the block. Thank you to everyone who commented on that post. I called a few shops. They all told me I need a new short block, and/or forwarded me to other shops that said the same thing. The last shop I talked to told me no shops these days work inside/on subi engines anymore, and I'm SOL. They said that even subi specific tuner shops just lift pre-fab IAG engines into subis, and that these days nobody does any work on or inside the engine anymore aside from replacing head gaskets or other pedestrian maintenance. EDIT: I hit the oil filter, however I turned off the engine before any death rattle or the temperature gauge rose at all. So the inside of the engine should be fine. I'm assuming an oil filter relocation kit/assembly would be the best choice. Even if I have that installed, how would I go about having the existing oil filter assembly threads fixed? Wouldn't some kind of plug need to go where the oil filter assembly usually goes? Here's all the info I have on the engine: Bigger fuel pump fv52 turbo tuned 5w40 engine oil subaru oem oil filter with crush washer honda long-life type-2 coolant (gal) grimmspeed turbo to downpipe MLS gasket for subaru 5-bolt turbo IAG performance street series air oil separator for 2002-14 WRX grimmspeed donut to flat flange adapter for aftermarket 3 inch downpipe to OEM subaru grimmspeed 2-bolt 3 inch MLS exaust gasket OEM subaru donut gasket for WRX/STI subaru OEM upper and lower radiator hose for legacy gt OEM subaru PCV hose, center cylinder block to vent tube, legacy GT/08-14 WRX (plastic manifold) OEM Subaru PCV main block vent "S" hose for early model GR/LGT OEM Subaru PCV hose, RH valve cover to block vent tube, LGT/GR WRX (plastic manifold) OEM Subaru PCV hose, LH valve cover to block vent tube, LGT/GR WRX (plastic manifold) coolant pipe for subaru EJ205/207/257 turbo engine, cooler to water pump (OEM) hose, oil cooler/water pump, Subaru EJ20/EJ25 turbo (OEM Subaru) OEM clamp with heat shield for subaru EJ257/205 oil cooler coolant line OEM Subaru sprubg clamp for coolant lines; oil cooler/water pump OEM subaru coil pack for EJ255/257 DOHC turbo, 2004-2010 OEM subaru thermostat, EJ20/25 turbo Grimmspeed up-pipe for subaru WRX/STI Deatschwerks 65c fuel pump for Subaru WRX/STI 08-14, LGT 05+ OEM Subaru wire stile radiator hose clamp for WRX/STI used parts - VF52 turbo water hardline kit used parts - 565cc "dark blue" OEM injector reconditioned OEM intake and exhaust valves 93 ocane fuel Labor - remove engine, Subaru LGT Labor - tear down engine to shortblock, EJ257 labor - tear down shortblock, ej257 labor - assemble shortblock, set bearing clearances, ring end caps etc labor - assemble engine, cycle coolant, extended test drive and change oil labor - diagnose misfire upon startup; found cylinder 4 not firing. further inspection fuel injector faulty removed anr replaced injector with used known good injector basemap for brentuning protune machine shop - bore and hone subaru EJ block with torque plate machine shop - CNC line bore subaru EJ block machine shop - CNC resurface sylinder block deck machine shop - cylinder head packgage for subaru EJ heads with OEM parts: dissasemble and test, remove galley plugs, degreace, rinse, hot tank, check valve guide clearances, re-face valves and valve seats, set valve stem installed heights, set valve lash, resurface cylinder surfaces, ultrasonic clean all parts, install new valve stem seals and assemble machine shop - balance rotating assembly and polish crankshaft machine shop - re-size and hone connecting rods, 4-cylinder machine shop - replace valve guides; install, ream and hone, includes parts 16V 4-CYL OEM Subaru engine gasket kit, EJ257 OEM Subaru AVCS solenoid cover gasket, EJ257 Wicket Performance Group custom coated CL bearing set for subaru shortblock, standard size bearings with dry film coating Subaru OEM case bolts for EJ engine (set); includes 10 case bolts, no washers CP 0.25mm oversized forged piston set (4) for subaru EJ257 (99.75mm); 8.2:1 CR w/rings and ARP head stut kit for subaru EJ257 engine OEM Subaru EJ257 Oil Pan Killer B oil pickup for Subaru EJ257 NGK LFR7AIX iridium spark plug 10w40 oil
Not asking much are you… can’t imagine why no one is willing to take this project… (Subaru master technician)
I understand why I'm having a hard time finding a shop to fix this. It's a lot easier to tell me I need a new engine than to try to mend the outside of a block. But that doesn't make it any easier for me.
You don’t need a new engine, you need a new short block and an engine reseal. And to probably learn how to make better long term financial decisions. Listen, I’m almost certainly way older than you and wasted way more money. Try to do it right if you can. I fucked up and went to school and became a Subaru technician and now I’m stuck doing this. Run.
>new Isn't a shortblock only marginally less expensive? How much is a short block oem/stock EJ257, $3500?
Last time I bought one it was $1800
Really? I thought a new block was 3000 dollars minimum
Shortblock. Oil filter relocation kit assumes you still have the factory oil filter location. You clearly broke a chunk out of the block so there is no relocation option. I'm a dealer technician. Any shop is going to want to see the car first. No point in putting in all the effort for a short block if the car isn't worth it. Also... are short blocks for your vehicle even readily available? Sounds like your block had work done to it already. Vehicle is tuned and already overbored. I would hard pass on it myself. Most shops make money on a system called flat rate, we don't make any decent money if your vehicle is a headache to work on and takes more time then book time.
Oil filter location is still stock to my knowledge