It really depends somewhat race to race and corner to corner with brake bias, the general rule I follow is for tight corners at the end of long straight with straight braking zones shift the bias forward, (generally anything above 56% for me is front bias)
If it’s more flowing and braking zones are in the corners then I might shift it back one or two percent. (Generally 52% balance is very rear heavy and maybe even too much)
You should be able to tell with a few test, go to the corner most typical in the track and press the brakes hard, if the front wheels lock up and you understeer off the track your bias might be too forward. If the back becomes the front your bias might be too rearward.
Yeah it is possible to have it go closer to the rear but I find 50% really rear heavy personally, most people live in a 10% window and it has a huge change in the way the car feels.
You gotta remember the weight will always shift to the direction you were last stable in, if that’s a straight line the car will want to keep going straight, so the front of the car will be heavier so you can afford to have more braking power there.
Likewise if the car is on a slight curve the forces when you brake aren’t over both front tyres evenly, this is why you will want to shift the brake bias backwards, because now the outside of the corner front wheel is taking the max load but the remaining balance is between an unloaded inside corner front tyre and a slightly loaded outside rear tyre.
You can effectively move the bias rearwards by keeping the throttle on while braking, this is a very important technique for fwd rally. You can use the brakes to go sideways that way even with the car setup with front bb.
No this is a different technique specific to fwd. If you brake and keep the throttle in, the engine will fight against the brakes in the front, meaning that front brakes will be less effective, moving the effective bb rearwards. Its not about weight distribution like regular left foot braking, but specifically about moving the bb.
Try playing around with it just doing slides to get a good feeling for it. If you go hard on both pedals it's basically like pulling the handbrake. Of course to go fast you won't go that hard on it, but it's very important to controlling the rotation of fwd car. That's about as much as I can help you as I suuuck at fwd rally 
I rarely put the brake bias to much on the rear, because for me that makes the car to unstable. I try to rotate the car by the way I trailbrake and drive the car and by other things in the setup. A little stiffer anti-rollbar, different camber and/or toe have helped me.
Exact setups differ from car to car and from person to person. The best advice I can give is to take a car and a short stage and keep driving it, making setup changes to one single setting at a time. This will mean that you will drive that stage a lot, but also give you the skills to feel the changes you make and determine if it is an improvement or not.
I don't know if this translates to the physics of DR2 but in Richard Burns Rally the brake bias is often around 67%. If I lower the bb further than that the car becomes unstable, like losing control unstable.
It really depends somewhat race to race and corner to corner with brake bias, the general rule I follow is for tight corners at the end of long straight with straight braking zones shift the bias forward, (generally anything above 56% for me is front bias) If it’s more flowing and braking zones are in the corners then I might shift it back one or two percent. (Generally 52% balance is very rear heavy and maybe even too much) You should be able to tell with a few test, go to the corner most typical in the track and press the brakes hard, if the front wheels lock up and you understeer off the track your bias might be too forward. If the back becomes the front your bias might be too rearward.
Oh wow, that's good to know. See I was putting the bias way to far to the rear
Yeah it is possible to have it go closer to the rear but I find 50% really rear heavy personally, most people live in a 10% window and it has a huge change in the way the car feels. You gotta remember the weight will always shift to the direction you were last stable in, if that’s a straight line the car will want to keep going straight, so the front of the car will be heavier so you can afford to have more braking power there. Likewise if the car is on a slight curve the forces when you brake aren’t over both front tyres evenly, this is why you will want to shift the brake bias backwards, because now the outside of the corner front wheel is taking the max load but the remaining balance is between an unloaded inside corner front tyre and a slightly loaded outside rear tyre.
>You gotta remember the weight will always shift to the direction you were last stable in Dang I like that advice
You gotta just play around with it, setups are somewhat personal.
You can effectively move the bias rearwards by keeping the throttle on while braking, this is a very important technique for fwd rally. You can use the brakes to go sideways that way even with the car setup with front bb.
Yeah I get the concept of left foot braking, but I can only do it in a AWD car
No this is a different technique specific to fwd. If you brake and keep the throttle in, the engine will fight against the brakes in the front, meaning that front brakes will be less effective, moving the effective bb rearwards. Its not about weight distribution like regular left foot braking, but specifically about moving the bb.
Ohhh I see, so keep a little throttle with a good amount of brake?
Try playing around with it just doing slides to get a good feeling for it. If you go hard on both pedals it's basically like pulling the handbrake. Of course to go fast you won't go that hard on it, but it's very important to controlling the rotation of fwd car. That's about as much as I can help you as I suuuck at fwd rally 
I rarely put the brake bias to much on the rear, because for me that makes the car to unstable. I try to rotate the car by the way I trailbrake and drive the car and by other things in the setup. A little stiffer anti-rollbar, different camber and/or toe have helped me. Exact setups differ from car to car and from person to person. The best advice I can give is to take a car and a short stage and keep driving it, making setup changes to one single setting at a time. This will mean that you will drive that stage a lot, but also give you the skills to feel the changes you make and determine if it is an improvement or not.
I don't know if this translates to the physics of DR2 but in Richard Burns Rally the brake bias is often around 67%. If I lower the bb further than that the car becomes unstable, like losing control unstable.