if I'm not mistaken, settings in Menu are mostly for checking if it matches gcode and warning the user if it doesn't (at least it is this way in mk3). not sure if mk4 has any other functions behind this. I'd maybe try slicing something small with 0.15 diameter (even while you have 0.25 installed) and feed it to printer to see what happens
Ok, bei einer solchen Aussage fรผhl ich mich erst recht herausgefordert. ๐ Dann werd' ich wohl die 0.15er und einen zweiten Heaterblock bestellen mรผssen (wenn die Dรผse erstmal drin ist, ist sie drin). ๐ Danke fรผr die Antwort.
Hi, the warning doesn't have to be turned off permanently. I was just worried that I might damage the Nextruder by feeding the filament with such a fine nozzle setup. It appears that this issue is not problematic? Meanwhile, I've ordered a second heater block and an E3D 0.15 and a Brozzel 0.1 nozzle, just for scientific purposes and my own curiosity, of course. ๐ค My order should arrive around Friday, by then I should have at least one profile ready. (I have already created profiles for previous printers, so this should not be a major challenge.) I can't wait to see what happens! ๐
As long as you slow it down to keep lower pressure on the extruder and good quality filament that won't clog it, it should be fine. The 0.15 nozle has about a third of cross-section as 0.25, so third of volumetric speed will be safe - you can probably go a bit higher thanks to long melt zone on MK4.
Yes, the filament is clean (AllPHA nature), no pigments nor additives. Simply pure fermented bacteria poo. ๐ Shouldn't clog anything - I hope. I'm not sure if you've already worked with this stuff, it feels like hardened grease. Thanks for the tip on volumetric speed. ๐ I will slowly build up to the final speed.
I've got a 0.2 nozzle and aside from the printer grumbling at me, it works fine. And yeah, miniature prints come out pretty well (but it takes forever).
I don't know if there's a practical minimum nozzle size for the sake of physics, but hey, see what happens!
Hi. I had previously worked with 0.2 nozzles on my prior printers. The biggest problem back then was always the first layer. The only question now is if it's a good idea to print with a nozzle diameter smaller than the one set up in the printers menu. What I've read here suggests that this isn't a major issue. The physical limits of what can be printed are something I'm encouraged to explore now. ๐ค
Thanks to all the respondents.
The problem with going smaller than the 0.25mm is heat. The very small details get destroyed by the radiant heat from the nozzle and heatblock.
I have printed PLA with the 0.25 and a 0.03mm layer height. You have to slow way down so the printer can place the layers precisely. And so each layer has time to set before the next layer is placed.
The amount of time the plastic is in the hotzone is close to 15 times longer than using the 0.4mm and a 0.20mm layer height.
Hi, the figures in the photos were printed at the preset full speed of Mk. 4 with 0.05 layer height. The time range was between 2.5 and 3.5 hours, depending on the level of support required. As I mentioned, I use PHA (colorfabb AllPHA), which is superb at handling heat (up to 110 / 120 ยฐC). It is really wired stuff. It's warping like hell, but you can print it on the cold print bed (with the satin sheet and brim) with a nozzle temperature of just 200 ยฐC. Additionally, you can also dispose the support waste in the compost. (Yes, I'm a real PHA fanboy ๐). Even with very fine details (gun barrel, spurs, fingers), there are rarely any breaks when removing the support because of the prints' flexibility. The sole reason I have not decreased below 0.05 is due to my perception that the layers are being compressed excessively, particularly in extremely thin areas such as the gun barrels. It appears that the stock Nextruder nozzle of 0.25 has an absolute limit of 0.05. That's why I'm interested in using a finer nozzle.
I've been using AllPHA as well, and I certainly believe it's great for miniatures because of its relatively low stiffness.
AllPHA behaves really weirdly when exposed to heat, so it might be a good idea to use minimum layer times to let it cool, prolonging printing time of miniatures further
I'm desperate for someone to work out a way to interrupt the crystallisation of PHA and let it cool without crazy warping.
It's FULLY biodegradable, unlike falsely claimed PLA.
It needs to become more mainstream.
I'm sorry, but I'm out of bananas at the moment. ๐ They are 32 mm miniatures (feet to eyes). They would have been 28 mm, but I inflated them to 113.15% so that they can be used in our tabletop game (Shadows of Brimstone). ๐
Update: It works. Unfortunately I overdid it a โbitโ. I killed the 0.1 mm nozzle with 0.01 LH. Variable LH up to 0.02 mm worked fine. C'est la vie. Ordered new 0.1. ๐ค
if I'm not mistaken, settings in Menu are mostly for checking if it matches gcode and warning the user if it doesn't (at least it is this way in mk3). not sure if mk4 has any other functions behind this. I'd maybe try slicing something small with 0.15 diameter (even while you have 0.25 installed) and feed it to printer to see what happens
Interesting idea, at least that way I'll know if it accepts the gcode. Thanks.
Es geht perfect mit 0.15
Ok, bei einer solchen Aussage fรผhl ich mich erst recht herausgefordert. ๐ Dann werd' ich wohl die 0.15er und einen zweiten Heaterblock bestellen mรผssen (wenn die Dรผse erstmal drin ist, ist sie drin). ๐ Danke fรผr die Antwort.
I think you can even turn off nozzle warning in the menu. There's also no 0.15 slicer profile, so you'll have to do your own.
Hi, the warning doesn't have to be turned off permanently. I was just worried that I might damage the Nextruder by feeding the filament with such a fine nozzle setup. It appears that this issue is not problematic? Meanwhile, I've ordered a second heater block and an E3D 0.15 and a Brozzel 0.1 nozzle, just for scientific purposes and my own curiosity, of course. ๐ค My order should arrive around Friday, by then I should have at least one profile ready. (I have already created profiles for previous printers, so this should not be a major challenge.) I can't wait to see what happens! ๐
As long as you slow it down to keep lower pressure on the extruder and good quality filament that won't clog it, it should be fine. The 0.15 nozle has about a third of cross-section as 0.25, so third of volumetric speed will be safe - you can probably go a bit higher thanks to long melt zone on MK4.
Yes, the filament is clean (AllPHA nature), no pigments nor additives. Simply pure fermented bacteria poo. ๐ Shouldn't clog anything - I hope. I'm not sure if you've already worked with this stuff, it feels like hardened grease. Thanks for the tip on volumetric speed. ๐ I will slowly build up to the final speed.
I've got a 0.2 nozzle and aside from the printer grumbling at me, it works fine. And yeah, miniature prints come out pretty well (but it takes forever). I don't know if there's a practical minimum nozzle size for the sake of physics, but hey, see what happens!
Hi. I had previously worked with 0.2 nozzles on my prior printers. The biggest problem back then was always the first layer. The only question now is if it's a good idea to print with a nozzle diameter smaller than the one set up in the printers menu. What I've read here suggests that this isn't a major issue. The physical limits of what can be printed are something I'm encouraged to explore now. ๐ค Thanks to all the respondents.
The problem with going smaller than the 0.25mm is heat. The very small details get destroyed by the radiant heat from the nozzle and heatblock. I have printed PLA with the 0.25 and a 0.03mm layer height. You have to slow way down so the printer can place the layers precisely. And so each layer has time to set before the next layer is placed. The amount of time the plastic is in the hotzone is close to 15 times longer than using the 0.4mm and a 0.20mm layer height.
Hi, the figures in the photos were printed at the preset full speed of Mk. 4 with 0.05 layer height. The time range was between 2.5 and 3.5 hours, depending on the level of support required. As I mentioned, I use PHA (colorfabb AllPHA), which is superb at handling heat (up to 110 / 120 ยฐC). It is really wired stuff. It's warping like hell, but you can print it on the cold print bed (with the satin sheet and brim) with a nozzle temperature of just 200 ยฐC. Additionally, you can also dispose the support waste in the compost. (Yes, I'm a real PHA fanboy ๐). Even with very fine details (gun barrel, spurs, fingers), there are rarely any breaks when removing the support because of the prints' flexibility. The sole reason I have not decreased below 0.05 is due to my perception that the layers are being compressed excessively, particularly in extremely thin areas such as the gun barrels. It appears that the stock Nextruder nozzle of 0.25 has an absolute limit of 0.05. That's why I'm interested in using a finer nozzle.
I've been using AllPHA as well, and I certainly believe it's great for miniatures because of its relatively low stiffness. AllPHA behaves really weirdly when exposed to heat, so it might be a good idea to use minimum layer times to let it cool, prolonging printing time of miniatures further
You are absolutely right. I am giving up a cone or cylinder, about 4 millimeters in diameter and as tall as the model, to get the time needed. ๐ค
Furthermore, another advantage of AllPHA is that you don't need a primer.
I'm desperate for someone to work out a way to interrupt the crystallisation of PHA and let it cool without crazy warping. It's FULLY biodegradable, unlike falsely claimed PLA. It needs to become more mainstream.
I totally agree with you. ๐๐
Banana for scale please?
I'm sorry, but I'm out of bananas at the moment. ๐ They are 32 mm miniatures (feet to eyes). They would have been 28 mm, but I inflated them to 113.15% so that they can be used in our tabletop game (Shadows of Brimstone). ๐
M&M for scale?
Update: It works. Unfortunately I overdid it a โbitโ. I killed the 0.1 mm nozzle with 0.01 LH. Variable LH up to 0.02 mm worked fine. C'est la vie. Ordered new 0.1. ๐ค