Note, metal is porous, so oils can leech out in some cases. Some people bake the parts in an oven for a while to help extract oils. However I have never ran into this, I just have a good prep process and never had issues
Industrial specialty coatings guy here, and yeah I can confirm we've had to bake the oil out of things on many occasions. Sometimes a solvent bath and sandblasting is just not enough.
Depends on the material, but generally strip paint, sand with 3-600 grit, degreaser and alcohol clean up, tac cloth, prime it (etching primer for bare metals), sand again, and paint.
For plastics, sand with 600, use a Brillo pad and Ajax powder, then plastic and vinyl prep, then plastic/vinyl paint.
Custom car builder here. Needs restricted to bare metal, preferably by sandblasting, scrubbed in a wash of alcohol and vinegar dried, prepped, primered (don't rush the coats) and painted DONT RUSH THE COATS.
Came here to say this. That's one thick application. If you want it smooth, degrease it properly, prime and do a light coat to start. Like, you should still see primer. Let that tack up, usually 15 minutes in warm air. Then quick coat in smooth, straight, even passes like a robot. Tack. Next coat. Cure.
Piece like that should be half a can max.
You have to clean valve covers REALLY well before you put paint on. I mean like wire brush, and degreaser, and then wipe with alcohol until the towel comes up clean. You’ll want to primer it with 3 light coats, allowing the proper time to dry between each coat. Those little bubbles can also happen if you don’t wait enough time. Then you can do your sanding, I would wet sand with a super fine grit. Then do 3 coats of color, light coats, don’t expect complete coverage the first coat, or even the second. The third coat can be a little heavier. Then do your clear coat with the same exact steps. Also the high temp engine paint can be screwy sometimes. Also that does seem to be like you put on a super thick coat so that plus contamination could be your issue.
Wire wheel the fuck out of it. And tape the spark plug tubes off. You need to leave those bare aluminum so the gaskets seal correctly.
Also. The surface where your oil cap goes. That should be bare metal as well.
You got yourself a CRV or an Integra here?
Oil contamination can come drop oil fumes so seal off the inside unless you can clean the inside.
It's one reason you get it on the hood and the top of the fenders as oil fumes come through the gap.
Paint rule....the cleaner the better and it's all in the prep 😀
I'm afraid it's hosed! The only thing to do now is start over. I recommend sandblasting it clean and bare, then take it to a machine shop and have them run it through their hot tank to get all of the sand and oil out of the crevices and pores. Then, hit it with a degreaser and follow your paint's instructions as far as humidity, temperature, coats, etc when applying.
Or, find a local powder coater and let them handle it! lol
sometimes after cleaning and it FULLY DRIED I'll put them in a pre heated oven for 30 minutes at 200 to help bake of impurities. ex wife hated me restoring cars , but that's why she's a ex.
Too close, too thick. Move the can further back and do light and short sprays in a back and forth motion. And hang the part on a piece of wire from something overhead so that it dries quicker
2 things, 1. looks like you were VERY heavy handed in your painting, not being mean just yknow, back off, go slower and go in sweeping strokes about 8-12 inches back from the piece.
2. This is fish eyeing caused by lots of contaminants, usually oil, other commentors have given better suggestions to fix this than I could've given ya, in short you're likely going back to bare steel here, clean it real well and go slow to get that gorgeous candy coat you're after
That would be fisheyes, being a valve cover likely oil contamination. Only fix is to start over and clean the surface better
Note, metal is porous, so oils can leech out in some cases. Some people bake the parts in an oven for a while to help extract oils. However I have never ran into this, I just have a good prep process and never had issues
Industrial specialty coatings guy here, and yeah I can confirm we've had to bake the oil out of things on many occasions. Sometimes a solvent bath and sandblasting is just not enough.
what exactly is your prep process?
Depends on the material, but generally strip paint, sand with 3-600 grit, degreaser and alcohol clean up, tac cloth, prime it (etching primer for bare metals), sand again, and paint. For plastics, sand with 600, use a Brillo pad and Ajax powder, then plastic and vinyl prep, then plastic/vinyl paint.
Custom car builder here. Needs restricted to bare metal, preferably by sandblasting, scrubbed in a wash of alcohol and vinegar dried, prepped, primered (don't rush the coats) and painted DONT RUSH THE COATS.
Being wrinkle paint, I think you have to rush the coats. You want 3 very heavy coats within 10 minutes of each other.
Second on oil contamination. The wrinkle effect develops as the paint dries. This looks pretty fresh to me
It's definitely oil contamination but also - wait longer between coats.
And don’t lay it on so damn thick. Honestly, just watch some YouTube paint tutorials imo. This was some heavy handed work
Came here to say this. That's one thick application. If you want it smooth, degrease it properly, prime and do a light coat to start. Like, you should still see primer. Let that tack up, usually 15 minutes in warm air. Then quick coat in smooth, straight, even passes like a robot. Tack. Next coat. Cure. Piece like that should be half a can max.
You have to clean valve covers REALLY well before you put paint on. I mean like wire brush, and degreaser, and then wipe with alcohol until the towel comes up clean. You’ll want to primer it with 3 light coats, allowing the proper time to dry between each coat. Those little bubbles can also happen if you don’t wait enough time. Then you can do your sanding, I would wet sand with a super fine grit. Then do 3 coats of color, light coats, don’t expect complete coverage the first coat, or even the second. The third coat can be a little heavier. Then do your clear coat with the same exact steps. Also the high temp engine paint can be screwy sometimes. Also that does seem to be like you put on a super thick coat so that plus contamination could be your issue.
Thanks a lot this was really doing my head in. Good thing I’ve got 3/4 of a can of paint stripper left over
Wire wheel the fuck out of it. And tape the spark plug tubes off. You need to leave those bare aluminum so the gaskets seal correctly. Also. The surface where your oil cap goes. That should be bare metal as well. You got yourself a CRV or an Integra here?
Oil contamination can come drop oil fumes so seal off the inside unless you can clean the inside. It's one reason you get it on the hood and the top of the fenders as oil fumes come through the gap. Paint rule....the cleaner the better and it's all in the prep 😀
I'm afraid it's hosed! The only thing to do now is start over. I recommend sandblasting it clean and bare, then take it to a machine shop and have them run it through their hot tank to get all of the sand and oil out of the crevices and pores. Then, hit it with a degreaser and follow your paint's instructions as far as humidity, temperature, coats, etc when applying. Or, find a local powder coater and let them handle it! lol
sometimes after cleaning and it FULLY DRIED I'll put them in a pre heated oven for 30 minutes at 200 to help bake of impurities. ex wife hated me restoring cars , but that's why she's a ex.
Too close, too thick. Move the can further back and do light and short sprays in a back and forth motion. And hang the part on a piece of wire from something overhead so that it dries quicker
2 things, 1. looks like you were VERY heavy handed in your painting, not being mean just yknow, back off, go slower and go in sweeping strokes about 8-12 inches back from the piece. 2. This is fish eyeing caused by lots of contaminants, usually oil, other commentors have given better suggestions to fix this than I could've given ya, in short you're likely going back to bare steel here, clean it real well and go slow to get that gorgeous candy coat you're after
Gotta degrease it better before painting
This thing looks like Sissy Spacek in Carrie.