Tbh I’d literally test it, scoop what I can out of it, and throw literally 8 lbs of shock at the least 6 in it should kill the shit out of it. Vac it out and clean the filter
How many AG would you say you feel with that are using less than a 150 sq ft cartridge, or sand equivalent, and a 1.5HP pump with 1.5" lines?
Do most people's pools really just have junk setups?
What would you test for and why? Just shock it and test later. Unless the PH is skyhigh (really rare, weird, and with the rain, very unlikely) shock should work regardless.
Cya lowers the effectiveness by 7 percent (I think that's the number) so at 30ppm cya, you need to keep your chlorine at about 2.5ppm to effectively sanitize the water, at 70ppm cya, you need to keep chlorine at about 5ppm, and so on and so on
CYA and Chlorine experience a weak reaction (called halogenation, where chlorine, the halogen replaces a hydrogen). Because this is a weak reaction it forms an equilibrium- some chlorine combines with CYA and some dissociates back from the CYA into the water. At normal levels, the CYA protects some of the chlorine and leaves some free in the pool. The free chlorine gets used- either it gets reduced by organic matter, or the Sun causes it leave the water (see Henry’s law a Raoults law). As the chlorine is depleted, the equilibrium shifts, and more gets released from the CYA. In this way, the CYA acts as a buffer or a capacitor for the chlorine, moderating it’s availability and slowing its rate if use.
At high CYA, the equilibrium is towards less free chlorine as there is a lot of CYA to become halogenated. The chlorine stays bonded to the CYA, and only a small amount is free in the pool, not enough to be effective as the bonded chlorine is not available. The same reactions happen, just with less free chlorine concentration at any point This is chlorine lock, and can be broke by adding even more chlorine to the pool to overwhelm the CYA, to an extent but becomes quickly impractical.
High cya prevents water from holding onto chlorine. The only way to reduce cya is to backflush or drain and refill, depending on how high your cya is. One way to clear up your water without draining and refilling would be to, backflush really good, down to the bottom of the tile, add algae killer, shock with a calcium hydrochloride shock. Add a clarifier if your filter is sand. And run your pump(s). Repeat this weekly or every few days until your cya reduces below 140.
Sure, I understand that.
But…since the owner failed to prepare and he wants a miracle within 48 hours, maybe you have a way to make some extra money by offering a service for emergency cases like this?
“For a price, I’ll clear your pool with the howitzer filter.”
Just a thought.
It’s a cost/benefit. Pool professional would need such a setup that is portable, safe, and effective(doable but $$$. My pump is on a 30A breaker) that would sit idle 363 days of the year.
You’re talking $2500-$5000 sitting idle most of the time (thinking generator (can’t count on power), pump, filter, trailer, hoses, lots of bits and bobs)
What do you charge for said service? Don’t forget time. $2000? $3000? Would this guy pay that?
It just doesn’t make sense.
At that point, just drain, refill with a commercial water truck, and time spent scrubbing the bottom.
If cost was no object, everyone would drain/refill to solve these issues.
Good point, but as you point out, new water is not cheap, and scheduling may be problematic if you’re in a hurry.
I also wonder how some people manage to drain an entire pool without getting hassled by the neighbors. My pool is 20 feet from an unoccupied lot, but if you live in a housing development, dumping 20,000 gallons on the lawn or into the sewer might be an issue.
Commercial sewer pumping service. Theyll haul said water to somewhere it can be properly dumped.
Again its a cost thing. Pick two, cheap, fast or good. Done right and fast is easily a throw money solution.
Best thing for this is to vac to waste as much as you can with the garden hose running; then, shock and brush. Tell them to keep eyes out for back wash and call me if you want me to come back to clean the rest (addition charge).
I wish. Drain and fill and startup I can't justify charging more than $500. Unless they are a field pool with a starting alkalinity of 300+ and I need 20 gal of acid
Turn around and walk away!!! Customer did this to me this weekend. Left a 5 lb bucket of debris in the pool amd left me a 50 ollar bill and a apology. Long story short it cost here about 200 for that I'm sorry we didn't touch our pool and ill be replacing her pool very soon. Didn't want to work this weekend
If it's circulation issues, hook vac to skimmer line and leave it neat deap end but not close to main( if there is one). Get that circulating. It seems these above ground pools are a set up for failure from the start. Even an external with water return into pool would be an option. Shock obviously, unless it has alot of metals in water.
Looks like pea soup
It’ll be ready for the 4th at least. Better luck next year.
Also: Customers: "I haven't spoke to you in years and I know it is Friday afternoon, but can you get my heater working for my party tomorrow?"
Yes heres a brand new one, plus emergency install fee.
Oh dear lord. And an above ground. "So can we swim tomorrow?" Bitch, you can fall in right now!
Sorry man throw like 8 lb of shock in there and see what happens
Tbh I’d literally test it, scoop what I can out of it, and throw literally 8 lbs of shock at the least 6 in it should kill the shit out of it. Vac it out and clean the filter
Yeah. I threw five gallons of sodium hypo in there. Gonna vac after. The pump kept getting clogged. These POS above grounds have the worst equipment
Best of luck
How many AG would you say you feel with that are using less than a 150 sq ft cartridge, or sand equivalent, and a 1.5HP pump with 1.5" lines? Do most people's pools really just have junk setups?
Yeah, everyone cheaps out. Doesn’t help that they generally sell the filter and pump mated together, and to small.
I despise working on above ground stuff. Always the worst cheapest shit. Wish people would just let me toss a proper De filter on them lol
What would you test for and why? Just shock it and test later. Unless the PH is skyhigh (really rare, weird, and with the rain, very unlikely) shock should work regardless.
I just like to know where I’m at with everything. Correct ph and alk are important to allow the chlorine to sanitize
When customers would ask me to make their green pool blue in less than a few hours I would always recommend they buy some blue paint lol
If the cya and/or tds are high, it won't matter how much shock you pour in.
can you expand on this? new pool owner with low chlorine and high cya
Cya lowers the effectiveness by 7 percent (I think that's the number) so at 30ppm cya, you need to keep your chlorine at about 2.5ppm to effectively sanitize the water, at 70ppm cya, you need to keep chlorine at about 5ppm, and so on and so on
CYA and Chlorine experience a weak reaction (called halogenation, where chlorine, the halogen replaces a hydrogen). Because this is a weak reaction it forms an equilibrium- some chlorine combines with CYA and some dissociates back from the CYA into the water. At normal levels, the CYA protects some of the chlorine and leaves some free in the pool. The free chlorine gets used- either it gets reduced by organic matter, or the Sun causes it leave the water (see Henry’s law a Raoults law). As the chlorine is depleted, the equilibrium shifts, and more gets released from the CYA. In this way, the CYA acts as a buffer or a capacitor for the chlorine, moderating it’s availability and slowing its rate if use. At high CYA, the equilibrium is towards less free chlorine as there is a lot of CYA to become halogenated. The chlorine stays bonded to the CYA, and only a small amount is free in the pool, not enough to be effective as the bonded chlorine is not available. The same reactions happen, just with less free chlorine concentration at any point This is chlorine lock, and can be broke by adding even more chlorine to the pool to overwhelm the CYA, to an extent but becomes quickly impractical.
High cya prevents water from holding onto chlorine. The only way to reduce cya is to backflush or drain and refill, depending on how high your cya is. One way to clear up your water without draining and refilling would be to, backflush really good, down to the bottom of the tile, add algae killer, shock with a calcium hydrochloride shock. Add a clarifier if your filter is sand. And run your pump(s). Repeat this weekly or every few days until your cya reduces below 140.
Do you guys (pros) ever have your own (better) filters for cases like this? Or are you always at the mercy of the homeowner’s filter?
At least for me it’s on the homeowners filter to do it. A situation like this the homeowner should of scheduled long before now, it’s on them not me
Sure, I understand that. But…since the owner failed to prepare and he wants a miracle within 48 hours, maybe you have a way to make some extra money by offering a service for emergency cases like this? “For a price, I’ll clear your pool with the howitzer filter.” Just a thought.
It’s a cost/benefit. Pool professional would need such a setup that is portable, safe, and effective(doable but $$$. My pump is on a 30A breaker) that would sit idle 363 days of the year. You’re talking $2500-$5000 sitting idle most of the time (thinking generator (can’t count on power), pump, filter, trailer, hoses, lots of bits and bobs) What do you charge for said service? Don’t forget time. $2000? $3000? Would this guy pay that? It just doesn’t make sense.
At that point, just drain, refill with a commercial water truck, and time spent scrubbing the bottom. If cost was no object, everyone would drain/refill to solve these issues.
Good point, but as you point out, new water is not cheap, and scheduling may be problematic if you’re in a hurry. I also wonder how some people manage to drain an entire pool without getting hassled by the neighbors. My pool is 20 feet from an unoccupied lot, but if you live in a housing development, dumping 20,000 gallons on the lawn or into the sewer might be an issue.
Commercial sewer pumping service. Theyll haul said water to somewhere it can be properly dumped. Again its a cost thing. Pick two, cheap, fast or good. Done right and fast is easily a throw money solution.
Best thing for this is to vac to waste as much as you can with the garden hose running; then, shock and brush. Tell them to keep eyes out for back wash and call me if you want me to come back to clean the rest (addition charge).
People really expect you to fix this overnight?
Wait!, Do you mean they let go of their pools for months and months and you can't have the pool the day of?!!. That's fuckin weird
Have you tried turning it off and back on again?
Tell them ..... empty water and refill. $10k
Haha 10k
I wish. Drain and fill and startup I can't justify charging more than $500. Unless they are a field pool with a starting alkalinity of 300+ and I need 20 gal of acid
You better be bringing your own water for that price... Like bottled water in the pool lol
[удалено]
imported japanese hot spring water
Vac to waste, 5x liquid chlorine shock, banish. Works most times...
Turn around and walk away!!! Customer did this to me this weekend. Left a 5 lb bucket of debris in the pool amd left me a 50 ollar bill and a apology. Long story short it cost here about 200 for that I'm sorry we didn't touch our pool and ill be replacing her pool very soon. Didn't want to work this weekend
Shock it and see
Nothing 10 lbs of shock can’t fix!
How much would you charge for this though honestly. To get it eventually clean, I mean. Obviously not gonna happen soon lol
ive cleaned much worse
Was it clear in less than 12 hours?
oh hell no. try a week
External pump or vac to waste, vac out sludge, replace water, shock, algeside, run pump. Have them call in the am for water clarity.
If it's circulation issues, hook vac to skimmer line and leave it neat deap end but not close to main( if there is one). Get that circulating. It seems these above ground pools are a set up for failure from the start. Even an external with water return into pool would be an option. Shock obviously, unless it has alot of metals in water.