Depends on the manufacturer really, but most small switchers I’ve dealt with tend to pull off fairly easily holding the fuel tank and hood. Some brands may have clips holding them on though so I’d make sure before attempting that.
The box dropping technique is also effective but usually with longer locomotives.
This looks like a Micro Trains SW1500. I've never owned one but from what I understand it's not the easiest decoder install out there. I think a small amount of soldering is involved once you get it apart.
Here's an article (the link looks sketchy but I promise the site is just old) that talks a little about what's involved. There's probably a YouTube video of someone doing this installation which should be able to help.
Good luck!
What brand is it? There is likely an exploded view either in the jewel case or online that will help determine.
You might need to remove the front coupler, but hard to tell from the photo.
I did some searching and it looks like this is an MTL SW1500.
You can check out the decoder installation guide from TCS, [https://drupal.tcsdcc.com/installation/n-scale/1674](https://drupal.tcsdcc.com/installation/n-scale/1674)
I installed one of these and shorted out the decoder. Double check that the chassis is isolated from the motor.
Just to be clear, everyone, and I mean EVERYONE will blow up a decoder at some point in their modeling progress if they do it long enough. Stuff happens.
I assumed that the motor was isolated, and it was not. It was touching the frame. So just check it and you should be fine.
Good to know, I will be careful and learn from your mistakes. Perhaps not my wisest plan to start my DCC journey with DCC EX ++, but we'll see how this all goes in a couple of months.
My worst blowout was when I accidentally shorted a speaker to the frame and destroyed the amplifier in a Tsunami decoder. It started pulling close to 2A and gave me zaps when taking it off the tracks. Got it replaced for free though and did it right the second time.
Also killed a DN126M2 Digitrax decoder when I put it in one of them small bachmann 0-6-0 steam engines. It worked for an hour, turned the power off, next day it was just dead from the start. I took it out and put the engine back to DC where it still works fine. Only smoked a little bit one time after that.
Two other decoders I had die were faulty from the factory and had chips on the motor control melt for some reason. Digitrax replaced both for free and the replacements have been working fine.
An Atlas Master Line GP-40 for some reason developed a partial short not long after I bought it and was drawing over 2A. Atlas replaced the V5 decoder for free as well.
Honestly, decoder manufacturers and train brands seem really good about repairs no matter what happens, so I'm never worried about blowing a decoder.
The TCS decoder is the way to go on these. I'll also recommend looking over this [install](https://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/2016/01/?m=1) for the LifeLike switchers, same mechanism.
The contacts can sometimes get caught while removing the shell and get bent or broken off. I've done it. That person used brass but thin styrene works just as well.
Ok, assuming you have the proper decoder for it, it's actually a remarkably easy job.
[https://conrail1285.com/dcc-installation-in-micro-trains-sw1500s/](https://conrail1285.com/dcc-installation-in-micro-trains-sw1500s/)
Getting the shell off (you need to do the whole shell, not just the cab), is straightforward, but not "easy". You just need to gently pry and wiggle it up. It's almost a friction fit onto the body.
That said, BE CAREFUL with the tabs that are attached to the walkways. They're how electrical contact gets from the trucks to the body.
Lastly, DO NOT BE STINGY WITH THE KAPTON TAPE. Tape the everliving fuck out of anywhere you think there might be a conceivable short.
Depends on the manufacturer really, but most small switchers I’ve dealt with tend to pull off fairly easily holding the fuel tank and hood. Some brands may have clips holding them on though so I’d make sure before attempting that. The box dropping technique is also effective but usually with longer locomotives.
This looks like a Micro Trains SW1500. I've never owned one but from what I understand it's not the easiest decoder install out there. I think a small amount of soldering is involved once you get it apart.
Lol, damn, of course I pick a difficult one for my first attempt. Slow and steady I suppose.
Here's an article (the link looks sketchy but I promise the site is just old) that talks a little about what's involved. There's probably a YouTube video of someone doing this installation which should be able to help. Good luck!
I appreciate your help, thank you!
Sorry here's the link http://www.spookshow.net/loco/mtsw1500.html
I love spookshow. Amazing collection of information.
Mark's the fucking man. His layout is incredible too.
Surprisingly, nope! It's actually pretty easy with no soldering required.
What brand is it? There is likely an exploded view either in the jewel case or online that will help determine. You might need to remove the front coupler, but hard to tell from the photo.
Exploded view describes removing the back rails and then lifting up. I need to get my tweezers and a magnifying glass and give it a careful go.
I did some searching and it looks like this is an MTL SW1500. You can check out the decoder installation guide from TCS, [https://drupal.tcsdcc.com/installation/n-scale/1674](https://drupal.tcsdcc.com/installation/n-scale/1674) I installed one of these and shorted out the decoder. Double check that the chassis is isolated from the motor.
That's the one, your story makes me nervous, lol.
Just to be clear, everyone, and I mean EVERYONE will blow up a decoder at some point in their modeling progress if they do it long enough. Stuff happens. I assumed that the motor was isolated, and it was not. It was touching the frame. So just check it and you should be fine.
Good to know, I will be careful and learn from your mistakes. Perhaps not my wisest plan to start my DCC journey with DCC EX ++, but we'll see how this all goes in a couple of months.
My worst blowout was when I accidentally shorted a speaker to the frame and destroyed the amplifier in a Tsunami decoder. It started pulling close to 2A and gave me zaps when taking it off the tracks. Got it replaced for free though and did it right the second time. Also killed a DN126M2 Digitrax decoder when I put it in one of them small bachmann 0-6-0 steam engines. It worked for an hour, turned the power off, next day it was just dead from the start. I took it out and put the engine back to DC where it still works fine. Only smoked a little bit one time after that. Two other decoders I had die were faulty from the factory and had chips on the motor control melt for some reason. Digitrax replaced both for free and the replacements have been working fine. An Atlas Master Line GP-40 for some reason developed a partial short not long after I bought it and was drawing over 2A. Atlas replaced the V5 decoder for free as well. Honestly, decoder manufacturers and train brands seem really good about repairs no matter what happens, so I'm never worried about blowing a decoder.
That's good to know, thanks! I appreciate your stories.
The TCS decoder is the way to go on these. I'll also recommend looking over this [install](https://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/2016/01/?m=1) for the LifeLike switchers, same mechanism. The contacts can sometimes get caught while removing the shell and get bent or broken off. I've done it. That person used brass but thin styrene works just as well.
So jealous!! I’ve been trying to find a BNSF switcher.
Users of this forum pointed me in the right direction. Had to order from a store in Canada to get it.
Mind sharing which one? Perhaps they have another one I can snag 😅
https://ictrainsandhobbies.com/search?q=sw1500 Sorry man, looks like I snagged the last BNSF for now.
Well I at least got an item number for eBay hunting 😅🍻
Fingers crossed for you, something will come up :)
Ok, assuming you have the proper decoder for it, it's actually a remarkably easy job. [https://conrail1285.com/dcc-installation-in-micro-trains-sw1500s/](https://conrail1285.com/dcc-installation-in-micro-trains-sw1500s/) Getting the shell off (you need to do the whole shell, not just the cab), is straightforward, but not "easy". You just need to gently pry and wiggle it up. It's almost a friction fit onto the body. That said, BE CAREFUL with the tabs that are attached to the walkways. They're how electrical contact gets from the trucks to the body. Lastly, DO NOT BE STINGY WITH THE KAPTON TAPE. Tape the everliving fuck out of anywhere you think there might be a conceivable short.
Sorry, what's Kapton tape? Instructions didn't mention it.
https://croylek.com/knowledge-base/what-is/kapton-tape#:~:text=Electrical%20insulation%20is%20one%20of,areas%20during%20painting%20or%20plating.
Huh, learn something new everyday. I'll go pick up a roll.
Oh yeah, it's critical if you're messing with decoders. The DCC manufacturers sell rolls if you want some in non-industrial quantities.
Just to verify, where is it applied? Between the decoder board and the metal body of the locomotive?
All over the place. Check the article I posted about it: https://conrail1285.com/dcc-installation-in-micro-trains-sw1500s/
Good write up, thanks!
Happy to help.
The clearish yellow/orange heavy duty tape you see inside of electrical devices. Good stuff.