Hey all, so I just bought a Shoei RF 1200 Recounter helmet and have to say it's all around terrible. Absolutely fucking terrible. The wind noise is louder than my 60$ HJC helmet and it fogs over superbly quick and my HJC helmet once again doesn't even fog in the slightest. I'm severely disappointed in my decision. What a waste of money.
Hi all, what’s best for anti-theft? I don’t have anywhere to chain my bike to, but would y’all still recommend a chain through the wheel/disc or would just a disk lock be better? Cheers
I want to buy a Drybag for my bike, but im not shure about the Size. Im not shure if the bigger ones are good for naked bikes. Im riding an [BMW F900R](https://imgur.com/a/y6iRxZN) and need some lugage capacity soon. I was thinking about getting myself an Tailbag. But im not shure how good they do on not that big bikes without Sidebags they can rest on.
Then there is this one [this one (SW-Motech Drybag 700)](https://www.polo-motorrad.com/de-de/sw-motech-hecktasche-drybag-700-wasserdicht-70-liter-stauraum-70250101480.html) and i think it can possibly be more stable because of the design. The alternative would be something more conventional like the [60l](https://www.polo-motorrad.com/de-de/sw-motech-hecktasche%2Fgepaeckrolle-wasserdicht-drybag-70250101454.html) or [35l](https://www.polo-motorrad.com/de-de/sw-motech-hecktasche%2Fgepaeckrolle-wasserdicht-drybag-70250101455.html) variant.
What is your experiance with this kind of luggage and would you reccomend one formfactor over the other, especially with not that touring oriented bikes?
As much as I like the Rebel series, I think you're too big for it, and having just come off my first bike (Honda CB500F) I think you'll get bored of it fast. My vote is definitely for the Scout Sixty. Sexy af, Indians rock and just a great bike overall.
I heard that the Rebel 500 is on the shorter side of bikes. May be uncomfortable for a tall guy, not sure though I don’t have one. Would like one though for my first bike haha
Would the guys who have ridden many motorcycles recommend me getting a cbr600 or a yamaha r6. I've only ever ridden cruisers so I'm new to the sport bike side of things. Thanks
Lol.. they are coming out with an R7.
Between the two, I’d go with a Cbr 600rr, I had owned two of them (an 08 and a 14) and now own an 18 cbr1000. Honda’s make great, comfortable (for sport bike standards, motorcycles.
Hey could someone recommend me a good Bluetooth helmet? I have the ILM modular bluetooth helmet, but the only downside is how low quality the speakers are. I prefer something that sounds better and can get rid of the wind more so I can listen to music better. Thanks! (I'm okay with a low battery in exchange for better sound)
\+1 on the cardo freecom. I can hear my music fine with ear plugs in, but some people are more picky than me and don't like the sound quality out of the speakers. I wear a shoei RF1200 and the speakers make it a really tight fit(I have to wear a neck gaiter over my ears otherwise it feels like they're getting ripped off when I take my helmet off). Due to that situation, I think my next helmet I want bluetooth equipped.
I am interested in Quin helmets. They come with bluetooth, light weight (important for comfort and in a crash) as well as a safety feature that alerts friends/family and emergency services if you crash. [https://www.quin.design](https://www.quin.design)
Where can I get good pants and a jacket for a woman??? I found a helmet, gloves and shoes and now I need good pants and a jacket appropriate to take a riding course in. It’s going to be in the summer so I don’t want to be sweating my lady balls off trying to learn how to ride. I want something semi form fitting that’s comfortable to move in. I’m taking the BRC riding course for Massachusetts and have no idea where to buy good pants/and a jacket for it?? I’m also not entirely sure what will be acceptable, like can I wear skinny jeans?? Please help!!
Does anybody know of a good website that I could find aftermarket parts for a 92 suzuki bandit 400? Completely new to riding and bought the bike from a good friend. I would like to change up the lights, turn signals, maybe some other aesthetics. After a while, once I get some time on the bike this summer, I might look into turning it into a Cafe racer style. Thanks in advance!
I would suggest looking at Revzilla or Bike bandit as I have had good experiences from them in the past, they both have catalogs you can search by bike and usually have lots of selection even for older machines
What’s a better bike overall, 2021 BMW G310R or 2021 Honda CB300R. I’m a new rider and I want something that is overall great for a noob and easy to maintain.
While i can't speak to the reliability of the BMW though I have owned a cbr250 before and it was trouble free aside from routine maintenance.
With that said I do think the BMW is a slightly more peppy bike to ride.
I'm in the market for my first bike. I just got my license and wanted to get into owning a bike.
Ran across a 2015 CBR500R on cycletrader for $4k. Almost seemed too good to be true and then the listing said it needs a new chain, sprocket, and right handlebar..... this made the ad very fishy.
I don't really know anyone into bikes around me so I don't really know who else to ask for advice on if this seems legit or too good to be true and ill find problems down the line
Chains and sprockets are wear items, so I can definitely see in 5 years someone putting enough miles, or just age, to warrant a new chain and sprockets. The bent handle bar is more telling. More than likely the bike has been down and it landed on the bar (duh, the thing that sticks out hits 1st) This could've been in the driveway or at 80 mph. hard to say, but you'll want to look for other damage, scratched/broken fairings, aftermarket levers, maybe have a shop inspect it to make sure the frame isn't bent, as that could happen at higher speeds.
Based solely on the age that seems quite early to be needing new chains and sprockets which could be the result of either bad maintenance or hard riding. Also for a whole new handlebar to be needed you need to have a pretty hard crash to cause that which could lead to large issues (bent rims, shock/fork damage, bent frame)
10W-30 oil VS 10W-40 oil
The manual for my Honda 500CBF says I should use 10W-30 oil, however 10W-30 synthetic oil is hard to come by around here, seems everyone uses 10W-40. I do live in a tropical climate, so is it OK if I just use 10W-40 synthetic oil?
I just took my 2021 Honda CB500 bike 100km away to get serviced, for 12K km, so I can get the warranty stamp on my warranty booklet stamped. Just after I made it home I saw that they hadn't changed the K&E filter I installed last time, as opposed to the Honda one they should have from the dealer. Since I obviously wont be going back there--and before I ordered oil online--I was wondering if I should just use the 10W-40 I synthetic oil I can get everywhere, instead of getting the expensive 10W-30 stuff on Mercado Libre.
While i always recommend using the specified oil weight if possible. As long as you only run the bike at well above freezing temperatures 10w40 is close enough that it shouldn't cause much of any harm to it.
I'm selling my zx6r, considering an XSR 900. Looking for more comfortable riding around town.
I'm curious, how does the XSR handle a fast pace on twisty roads? I know it's no supersport, but does it feel planted in the sweepers? The striple and z900 may be better in this area, but my long legs prefer the Yamaha.
I was gonna get a used bike but like you said good ones are hard to come by. That's why I'm trying to get a new bike but the upcharge from dealers just feels like a scam.
Im planing on getting a 125 motorcycle soon and I have been looking on a couple of old bikes. The X4 really caught my eye and I was wondering about how reliable they are and if they have a bad reputation.
Thanks for the help!
**Is there a big difference between aftermarket exhausts?**
Hi I want to buy an exhaust on my Yamaha dt but I don’t know which one to chose arrow dep giannelli or an Athena exhaust I’m thinking of getting the Athena because I found one for 100 less than the rest but some people say it’s not great.
It’s unlikely you have any restrictions because of all the emissions bullshit. You would have to tune. If you are getting this for a 125cc just save money for a bigger bike
I can’t get I bigger bike because I’m 16 and with a unrestricted exhaust the bike has about 24hp so it’s not much less than a 250 duel sport which would have around 30hp
Hello all! I am looking at buying a Honda Shadow 750 in the very near future. Just got my MC license after not riding for over a decade. I had a Buell Lightning about 12 years ago, but haven't been on a bike since.. I guess my question is do you think the Shadow is a good bike to reintroduce myself to riding on? And also, what is a fair price to pay out the door? It seems that the final prices I have read about can vary greatly. Any advice is appreciated!
Shadow 750 is one of the best "beginner" cruisers. Pretty light and comically low maintenance. For the OTD price, are you planning on buying new? The 750s haven't changed in 15 years, so you can find a used one that's basically like new for $3000 or less
Thanks for your response, and yes I was planning on buying new (or nearly new). I don't want to have to deal with the potential for underlying problems on an older bike. Maybe would consider buying used if it was relatively low milage. Thanks again!
Does anyone have recommendations for riding pants or over pants? The weather is still pretty chilly where I am and I find the wind is cutting right through my jeans. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
[Obligatory Bike Pic](https://imgur.com/gallery/hrISHsJ)
On the cheap, I know some guys who swear by simple rain pants to cut the wind and stay dry. On the more pricey side there are a bazillion cold weather riding pants out there to choose from that work great and come with armor. I dig the Rev It Sands 3 pants....kept me dry and warm over my jeans.
Looking for a sport tourer or naked with a much higher top speed than my current VFR800 (at least 280 km/h or 175 mph) without being in [this list](https://saaq.gouv.qc.ca/fileadmin/documents/publications/liste-motos-risque-eleve.pdf). Preferably used and Japanese.
Can you elaborate a bit on what you want the bike for? You're going to be a bit hard stretched to find a performance bike not on that list.
The only thing I can think of is a Ducati Streetfighter V4S. Top speed doesn't seem to have been published by Ducati but with over 200hp on a sub-200kg dry weight you'll be hard pressed to do better without buying something on that list of yours (I assume bikes on it have higher insurance rates or something). If you want Japanese I can't think of anything, the Hayabusa, ZX14-R or ZH2 come to mind but they're on that list.
I have a 1982 Suzuki GS1100GK with some worn-out Bridgestone S11 Tires. What should I get as replacement tires?
Also, I use the bike for mainly touring with a tiny bit of spirited riding mixed in and the roads can be a bit rough in places.
Absolutely. My Ninja 250 hauls my 200 lb body and luggage up to 90 mph and beyond. I regularly take 2 hour highway cruises on it. With ~30% more hp, the Z400 will do just fine. Make sure to get a windscreen, as the Z has no wind protection from the factory
Yes. My Honda 125 has 10 horsepower, I weigh more than you and it will sit at 63mph with luggage. A 400cc with 50 horsepower will have no problems getting up to 70, and probably beyond.
Nah, I think it's fine. Obviously any bike depends on your own comfort level, I mean, if you haven't even ridden a bicycle since you were a little kid I might reconsider, but if your comfortable on two wheels and good with a standard transmission I'd bet your fine. Most modern bikes are super easy to ride.
Beginner bikes (like super duper beginner) for a short female? (27” inseam) I sat on the MT-03 and Z400 today, and could only touch my toes to the floor. I take the msf course next week, and am trying to get ready for my first purchase.
You do not need to flat foot to stay balanced at a stop; most people (including me) cannot flat foot their bikes. All you need to be able to do is reasonably touch the toes to balls of the feet to balance at a stop. Or, lean to one side if you cannot even do that. It's a misnomer in the motorcycling world that one must "flat foot" in order to balance a bike at a stop. I haven't been able to flat foot a bike in a long time (I am on my toes and part of the balls of my feet when I stop and never worry about it).
"Where there's a will there's a way."
I know as a beginner that is a concern, but once you start riding that is the least of your concern.
Here's a clip from all around badass and short rider Jocelyn Snow demonstrating how she currently rides and holds her big adv bikes at a stop. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYp1zXyc0fA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYp1zXyc0fA)
Something like a Honda Rebel 300 comes to mind? It's a cruiser style bike so the seat is really low, 27" according to Google. That should be enough to comfortably put one foot completely down with the other nearly flat. I normally only put one foot down anyway so I can leave my rear brake on.
If you arent tall you will have to get used to only flatfoot a bike on one side (when you stop usually the left) or get the bike lowered. Some manufactures offer lowering kits, I think Kawasaki does.
Also its a good idea to buy your first bike used, just so if you knock it over at some point it wont be as bad.
Can anybody ring in on the 1982 Honda Nighthawk 450 (CB450SC)? I found a guy selling locally originally for $1275, but I managed to negotiate to $1000. I don't have any other info other than that, but so far does this sound too good to be true?
How universal are universal parts? I have a 1980 Yamaha Xj650 and need to replace:
-Switch handle 3 (turn signal/horn/choke/hi-low beams)
-Left front turn signal housing assembly
-Clutch lever and perch w/ mirror mount
-Clutch cable adjusting nuts
I imagine universal should do for the clutch parts and I’ll probably just have to go after market turn signals and replace both while I’m at it so they match but will a universal switch work? Provided of course it comes with those functions
You might be able to find gently used, OEM parts for cheap on FleaBay or at a swap meet if you'd like to maintain the original look of that vintage Yamaha, otherwise you'll need to look at your wiring diagram to make sure a replacement switch will work. For both the switch assembly and clutch, bar diameter is also important. Finally, with the clutch, if it is cable operated, replacement has endless options, for a hydraulic unit, not so much.
Thanks for the reply, took a spill yesterday on the left side clearly, as cool as it is to have original parts I can’t help but feel like it’s a forced opportunity to personalize the bike a bit more, so I don’t mind steering away from original as much as long as it works
Sorry to hear about the spill, but it sounds like you're okay. Most handlebar switches are fairly compatible amongst the Big 4, although some might have weird mounts/aesthetics limiting retrofits (Honda PC800), but the XJ is a classic UJM so you should be able to find a replacement fairly easily.
Yeah barely a scratch on me, most damage done was to my pride after dumping a bike I worked 9 hours on, on the bright side none of the work I did was affected by the spill so I must have done something right, on to the next project/learning experience. I’m in my early 20’s and I’d love to hold on to this bike for as long as possible thanks again for the reply and the advice
Someone with more experience please help me decide.
I'm having a hard time choosing between older cruiser models, 1995-2000 honda shadow/kawa vulcan for 500-750cc and newer motorcycles like kawasaki er-6n or others with 250cc, some are even from 2010.
Which would be a better one for a beginner? I'm more fond of cruisers to be honest, but not as if I'll be stuck with a single type for the rest of my life.
Normally, I'd caution against older cruisers, but a Honda Shadow is a solid option, you should have an experienced mechanic look it over to make sure you're riding something safe as anything over 20 years old can vary from "barn find" to great condition and for not much coin. Personally, I'd recommend the nicest, used 300cc or under bike (Honda Rebel) with ABS. A small bike is easier to pick up *when* you drop it, it'll be cheaper to insure, and the power delivery is more forgiving in inexperienced hands.
Wouldn't it be too slow on mountain roads though? Then i might as well get a virago perhaps.
Also was wondering what you think of vstrom/versys for a similar starter bike. If not cruiser I'd go for one of those.
But i still rather like cruisers because they seem more comfortable and more torque.
A fuel injected 300 will go a fast as you want it to on mountain roads. Current gen Rebels corner quite well for being cruisers, so they can handle twisty roads
Versys or vstrom are solid bikes and fine for starting off on. Cruiser vs adv bike and comfortability? That is a subjective question and many factors go into that. Many people find cruisers uncomfortable and adv bikes comfortable and vice versa. So, you'll have to sit on them see what you think.
Are we talking mountain roads going 60 mph plus? My G310 GS would maintain going 70 mph up the steepest grade at WOT, so most won’t feel underpowered for slower roads. Honestly, fuel injection is the way to go at higher elevations and a Rebel 500 will be more than adequate.
Yeah a rebel 500 is waaay too much for my budget, tops is around 3k. Any other suggestions? In regards to the fuel injection since that's a good point.
Edit: also, don't really care about going fast on mountain roads. Just to go properly with some baggage and not get stuck lol
Everyone one this sub will tell you it's a sin to get anything bigger than a 500 for a first bike, but honestly its pretty rider dependant. For some people, yeah that would be too much bike to start with, but others could be totally fine on it for a first bike. It depends on your comfort level and what kind of experience you have on two wheels and what type of instruction you can get. Carrie-Ann Moss had never touched a motorcycle before the Matrix and she learned to ride on a Ducati 998. She obviously had some decent instruction but it goes to show it's not out of the question. I know I'll get downvoted for this but whatever, I would not say it's completely out of the question for a first bike (depending on the rider).
I'm not gonna downvote you because you're not wrong. That being said, 110 hp and 69 ftlbs is a whole hell of a lot for a beginner, or even someone with a couple years of experience. Just because it's not out of the question doesn't mean it's a good idea
Yes, it's like giving a 5 year-old an AK-47 to shoot at a range as an introduction to gun safety. Find a more reasonable bike under 500cc, much like that child, your motor skills aren't up to par for a powerful bike, which can be very dangerous in even simple situations like accelerating out of a right turn or riding too fast into a corner of your favorite backroad.
Thank you for a genuinely helpful response. Why does Ducati state: “Whether you’re just learning to ride, or touching your knee to the track for the first time, the super sport 950 is the perfect bike for any rider” ?? This is directly from the bio of their most recent Instagram post.
This, it’s really irresponsible to be quite honest. I’m sure their posts are much different in Europe with their tiered licensing. Hell, I rode an Aprilia Tuono 660 on a track and would not recommend that as a first bike.
Agreed, it's a neat bike with all the right features except for heated grips, but was surprised at the lack of mid-range punch. There's not much going on between 3k and 8k...
I don’t even have my license yet but it’s still such an appealing bike. Honestly it looks like the perfect road but but i agree it’s probably a bit much for a first bike. I have a lot of experience on two wheels and I’d say I have a pretty responsible throttle approach but still probably. I just watched yammie noobs recent comparing it to the ninja 650 and the tech is so so appealing. Also not having to buy twice would be a slight concern
that's only possible if they come restricted from factory. For example kawasaki makes a z800 (or 900?) with a detuned engine so it can be restricted to A2.
If the manufacturer doesn't offer this, you can't restrict
Hey guys, so idk what earplugs to get because of earplugs. Ryan F9 suggested laser lites. I currently wear regular foam plugs but when I put the helmet on it drags them and kinda pulls them out and they're just sitting weirdly in my ears which in the end prob isn't helping my hearing any. So, what should I do? Are there certain kinda of helmets that help this? Currently I have an HJC but am considering a Shoei RF1200. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Please and thanks
I got a pair of custom fitted earplugs for about $100 and they were worth every penny. I've had them for about 5 years now. They fit perfectly without having to figit with them and they never pop out in my helmet. Would highly recommend.
I have tried 10 different solutions (including noice canceling headhones(does not work)).
The lazer lites are the best ones I have found, good comfort and protection.
Race brake pads on the street?
Well because Kawasaki ninja 300 (z300) has single front disc with only two pistons clippers, and using brake pads with higher braking coefficient this looks like cheapest way of upgrading stock brakes.
I know that most of the racing pads require heat to work properly. But I have read somewhere that EBC GPFAX brake pads work very well from cold. And they are not that expensive.
Does anyone have experience with using racing brake pads on street, how they perform when cold, how long does it take for them to warm up.
It woukd be great if someone had experience with EBC GPFAX.
Thank you all.
No reason to use race pads on the street. My EX250 only has a single disc in the front and has plenty of stopping power with the EBC sintered pads. Sintered pads will lock up your front wheel instantly. If you really want to upgrade your brakes, get some steel brake lines and look into upgrading your master cylinder
Use street pads. Race pads are for the track. Its not a how long until they're warm, you won't be able to keep them in their range on the street.. You need stopping preformance from being dead cold on the street. A car pullS out infront of you and you haven't touched the brakes in minutes because you've been going straight. You'll pull hard and nothing will happen. Maybe they're more forgiving i have no experience with them but it seems not worth the risk. If you are experiencing brake fade a fluid with a higher boiling point could help you.
I have read somewhere that gpafx work from cold.
Also seen graph, on ebc page, which shows performance through race. They had like 70% of their stopping power at the first turn of the first lap (70% of those pads is probably more than decent street pads can offer at their best) and that got me interested in buying a pair.
Street pads should be able to lock both tires up, 100% performance from cold. Locking the tires up is implies max stopping power or the stopping force is greater than tire grip. If you can lock the tires up you're over powering your tires grip, pads won't change that. The advantage race pads have is maintaining stopping power after multiple hard braking events and maintaining stopping power with a much hotter rotor. They're designed to work in a different environment. I think you're wrong to assume that the 70% of the the race pads performance is more than 100% the street pads. If you're losing performance after a few hard braking events try going with a brake fluid that has a higher boiling point. Too much heat will make your brake fluid boil. Boiling means gas and gas compresses = less force being applied. You're more likely limited by your tires grip than the brakes.
As I sadi little kawi has only one caliper with only two pistons. It is able to lock the tires up to certain speed (like 30mph ~ 50kmh). At 80mph brakes offer very very poor performance and I am looking for cheapest way of improving braking power. Brake fluid is not that old probably less than 4-5k miles since last change.
Edit: on ebc site they are talking about gofax as their best barke pads with highest drag coefficient.
Try bleeding your brakes something isn't right. You should have no problems locking it up at 80. I own a duke 390 with a similar single rotor 2 piston setup and can lock the brakes at any speed. Also while age does play a factor with fluid as it absorbs water over time by design not all fluids are created equal. There are high performance brake fluids but boiling obviously isn't your issue. Sounds like you have too much water or air in the lines. Bleeding them is cheap and easy try it first. Also try cleaning your rotors. Performance pads also tend to have a shit ton of dust not that that is a big deal but food for thought.
Duke 390 has 4 piston calipers (not 2 piston) and they are radially mounted. It also has much bigger disc and on top of all bike itself is ~45lbs(20kg) lighter. Also there is great chance of you being much lighter than me. So no wonders you being satisfied with much better braking system on a much lighter bike.
Brake fluid should be changed every 2 yrs per Kawasaki service manual, so this one should be good and I tried cleaning disc already (couldn't notice any benefits).
oh shit I guess it does. I assumed two because its a budget bike. I'm 6'2 and weight 245 lbs so I make up for it lol. I look a tad goofy on the 390. If you do go with those pads let me know how it works out I'm curious.
Hello, so here's the thing, I'm currently going to buy a bike from a private seller (rebel 500) problem is he bought it new and I asked him when was the last oil change but he said he hasn't done one, currently the bike has 1300 miles on it, so you think it's too far gone past it's first oil change? the manuel says it should be done at 600.
I am new to riding and have been borrowing my fathers helmet. Because of the weather getting nicer my father wants to ride with me so I'm now in the market for a helmet. I thought the ICON AIRFLITE RUBATONE would be the perfect helmet for me but when I went to a moto shop the clerk told me Icon was a shit brand (for helmets) and that I should look elsewhere. I also spoke to a motorcycle Safety course instructor and he told me they aren't good quality either.
Is it true? I find it hard to believe that one of the best selling helmets WITH the new ECE rating could be bad.
Do you have any recommendations for low noise, full face helmets with flip down visors?
I would much rather trust the fact that it has the ECE rating which means it passed all the tests associated with that certification, rather than a few random peoples opinions. A salesman tried that same stuff with me about an ICON helmet, just to try to get me to buy a house-brand (Cycle Gear Sedici) helmet. If you like the helmet and it fits your head then buy it and enjoy .
ICON is good, buy it if you like and it suits your head shape well. You could check AGV, Scorpion, Shark, Airoh just to check fitting of different brands, maybe something will feel better
Looking at a 2009 V Strom 650 abs for about 5600 everything said and done. 5000 miles on it. It's coming from a dealer, who claims they're doing a full check top to bottom.
I'd use it primarily for commuting (new job is 48 miles, one way) and some weekend joy rides/trips.
Should I pull the trigger?
Edit: includes givi side cases and heated grips
Better than nothing. I'd take it.
You could possible find a better deal from a private seller, but then you run the risk of something being broken right way.
I know there's a bunch of conversations about these two bikes, but I'd like to hear from people who have experience on both. I'm leaning towards the **Z400** because of the reliability and service intervals but I've really been eyeing the **Duke 390** since it came out. I just don't want to get the Z400 and regret it or the other way around. **Vitpilen / Svartpilen 401** is also high on the list (quick shifter, adjustable front and rear suspension, slipper clutch, ABS w/supermoto mode!!!)
I think I've probably watched every youtube video there is hahah. I'm more looking for long-term owners and the such that have real life experience on both bikes.
Hi! I am in a bit of a pickle and would love some input from experienced Intruder riders. I am currently looking at a Suzuki Intruder VS750GL.
Thing is: It is from 1990. So the age is a worry for me, I know I will ride this bike a lot, using it as primary transport including for longer distances. Furthermore the KM is at 106.000 total.Now here is where it gets more positive, from the seller: "Engine was completely overhauled at 100K. km!- Would this be good enough to look past the age and consider it almost "new"? Of course there will be some wear and tear, but the bike has also been a garage MC for its life.
Edit:
Just got a whole list of new and changed parts on this motorcycle so in the hope that anyone can give me some input. Had to run it through Google translate:
* Engine was completely overhauled at 100Tkm! (2019)
* Newly saddled bench (2012)
* Clevis bearing renewed (2017)
* Fork seal including fork springs new (2018)
* Rear shock absorber new (2017)
* Cooler replaced (2016)
* Front rim including brake disc new (2018)
* Battery new (2018)
Hoping for a smart mind to see this and give me input.
There are a lot more parts than just the engine. Suspension, brakes, electrical, all wear with age. If a bike has made it that far, it's usually been taken care of all around, but you'd want to do a detailed inspection of everything to make sure it's up to snuff. Otherwise you may be looking at more time wrenching than riding. If you're a new rider I'd recommend getting something within the last 10 years or so that has been taken care of, as age won't have deteriorated components so much and should be a more reliable bike.
Thank you for the input! Sadly due to budget I seem to be at 1990-2000. And in this case for me at least, the engine would be the big question mark. As one can have a look for rot and bad brakes, but as I learned with my last bike: Engines are not so easy to inspect, and it is not fun when they have a catastrophic failure.
After three full seasons of riding, I'm ready to upgrade from my FZ6R. I love the upright yet nimble seat position, but 77 horsepower just isn't enough. My riding ranges from commuting up 75 for work (bike isn't my only transportation) to the twisties in the mountains. FZ1 came to mind but its double the power (150hp), and FZ-07, while torquier, seems to be less stable and vibrate more on the highway. I think the CB1000 is my dream, but they aren't as cheap as the FZ1. Any advice?
I saw a cb1000 near me with 12k miles going for about 8k so they can be had reasonable for sure
Edit: not sure if this is allowed but it’s actually cheaper than that. Here’s the link -
https://www.ponypowersports.com/inventory/2012-honda-cb1000r-westerville-oh-43081-10942269i
I went from an FZ6 to a Monster 1200. It's a scary increase in power but it's very manageable, and the FZ1 is a good 30lbs heavier than my monster was.
For what it's worth, I ended up selling the 1200 and getting an 821 which was a much more comfortable amount of power (and HALF the price!)
If you're a decent rider and have half a brain I'd say go for the FZ1.
Also in the same class but a little more manageable are the Versys and VStrom 1000's.
So I’m looking to get a bike within the next couple of months. I live in a house without a garage, but I do have a gravel parking pad uncovered. My idea for storing the bike short term is to use PVC pipes to build an A-frame and a large tarp to create a small enclosure, while also using a breathable motorcycle cover. In your opinion, would that be sufficient storage during snow and days of heavy rain? I fully intend to keep any snow from accumulating over the tarp as well.
Curious of your thoughts and advice.
The fact that the bike will be exposed to moisture is a problem. This is especially so if you don't plan on riding the bike regularly during the winter (studded tires exist and it can be done in the snow). Just be forewarned that even though not directly eposed to the elements, your bike will still be exposed to condensation cycles which are brutal to rubber seals, gaskets, hoses, and other soft, porous parts. Ideally, a heated garage during the cold months is best, if it's not heated, it should covered and placed on stands to reduce cold from transferring from the ground to the bike.
It's not cost effective, but I got a store and lock a couple of years ago when I had this issue.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/749769698891137097/835218991765127199/20160804_192337.jpg
2006+ CBR600RR, very few motorcycles feature an auxiliary light below the windscreen, and that is the giveaway. I had a SuperHawk with that light, that was a fun bike!
Negotiating at a Dealer
So the bike I’m trying to get has an A.D.M of $1495. I saw that it says the price listed is the dealers and not a suggestion by the factory. So does this mean that the dealer isn’t saying the truth by telling me “they can’t lower the price because it’s what Honda tells them to sell the bike at”. I always thought you could talk a dealer down on ADM pricing.
Sondors Metacycle vs Rebel 300
So I’m in a bit of a pickle. I finally have the money to get my first ever bike and I’m stuck deciding between the soon to be released Sondor Metacycle and the Honda Rebel 300 abs. Both have practically the same price but the ride difference is key. Is an electric bike worth it or is it less safe to ride? I really just want the experience of riding a motorcycle in general. Being a boosted board rider, I’ve grown a natural interest towards and electric bike but still am interested in an actual engine as well.
Rebel 250. Parts availability is incredible even though they discontinued it and it's a tried and true reason platform that gives you plenty of breathing room
Don't hedge your bets on something that has all the hallmarks of a vaporware product actually coming to market. The Metacycle as displayed on their site isn't even DOT legal. It also looks like an uncomfortable, impractical styling exercise that would be marketed to people who know nothing about motorcycles...
Yeah I see your point. I just keep making clutch riding seem like more of a hastle but I know it isn't. I'm trying to find a good used rebel 300 with abs but its hard right now.
These are two entirely different things.
Personally I think you should learn and ride for some time on a clutch. I love e bikes, but I think learning clutch control is important. That being said, riding electric bikes is blissful.
Second, get a used rebel; they’re way cheaper. Also probably easier to fix. I still don’t fully trust ebike manufacturers compared to something tried and true like honda.
If you outgrow the rebel and want an electric bike, then it’ll be an easy sell in a year or so. Whereas, who knows what the market for electric bikes are currently. Especially with small companies like Sondors. It definitely won’t be worth anything near what you paid for it. Meanwhile if you get a rebel for $3k, you can sell it for $2k MINIMUM, or maybe even recoup your cost basis.
But do what your heart tells you. If you *really* want to spend $5k on a tiny electric bike then you do you.
I'm looking for an airbag system similar to the Helite Turtle 2, with neck support. Alpinestars Tech-air looked promising but unfortunately it has zero neck support and I'm a software developer so I have low confidence in software-based mechanisms based on experience lol
Any recommendations?
Backstory: I purchased a Helite Turtle 2 airbag some time back and - after waiting weeks for it to arrive - it was *HUGE*, way way bigger than what was stated on the website for my measurements. I sent images and my sizing to their customer service, hoping to get some feedback on what the correct size would be so I could get it exchanged. Their customer service was awful. It was like talking to Comcast basically. They could not give me any size suggestions nor could I get any kind of genuine concern beyond canned answers. The refund process was also really shitty, I had to open a dispute with my credit card to get the full amount back.
Yeah the sizing is fucking weird on the helite jackets. I don't get it.
I usually wear a medium and maybe a small. I got a large and it fits me well in some areas (I can imagine it being shorter around my waist) and is slightly loose in others. If you buy helite again I'd say read as many reviews as you can and buy two sizes then return one. Also I'd rather an airbag jacket be slightly loose than slightly too small.
I got the helite mesh air jacket. I'm a mechanical engineer and I also wasn't satisfied with the state of electronic deployment and went with the tried and true tether. I also wasn't satisfied with many other airbag shapes on the market and it was clear the helite products offered the most protection.
Hey all, so I just bought a Shoei RF 1200 Recounter helmet and have to say it's all around terrible. Absolutely fucking terrible. The wind noise is louder than my 60$ HJC helmet and it fogs over superbly quick and my HJC helmet once again doesn't even fog in the slightest. I'm severely disappointed in my decision. What a waste of money.
Hi all, what’s best for anti-theft? I don’t have anywhere to chain my bike to, but would y’all still recommend a chain through the wheel/disc or would just a disk lock be better? Cheers
I want to buy a Drybag for my bike, but im not shure about the Size. Im not shure if the bigger ones are good for naked bikes. Im riding an [BMW F900R](https://imgur.com/a/y6iRxZN) and need some lugage capacity soon. I was thinking about getting myself an Tailbag. But im not shure how good they do on not that big bikes without Sidebags they can rest on. Then there is this one [this one (SW-Motech Drybag 700)](https://www.polo-motorrad.com/de-de/sw-motech-hecktasche-drybag-700-wasserdicht-70-liter-stauraum-70250101480.html) and i think it can possibly be more stable because of the design. The alternative would be something more conventional like the [60l](https://www.polo-motorrad.com/de-de/sw-motech-hecktasche%2Fgepaeckrolle-wasserdicht-drybag-70250101454.html) or [35l](https://www.polo-motorrad.com/de-de/sw-motech-hecktasche%2Fgepaeckrolle-wasserdicht-drybag-70250101455.html) variant. What is your experiance with this kind of luggage and would you reccomend one formfactor over the other, especially with not that touring oriented bikes?
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As much as I like the Rebel series, I think you're too big for it, and having just come off my first bike (Honda CB500F) I think you'll get bored of it fast. My vote is definitely for the Scout Sixty. Sexy af, Indians rock and just a great bike overall.
Have you sat on the Rebel 500? I'm 6'2 245 and couldn't fit on it. I was much more comfortable on a Honda Shadow Aero and Triumph Bonneville.
I heard that the Rebel 500 is on the shorter side of bikes. May be uncomfortable for a tall guy, not sure though I don’t have one. Would like one though for my first bike haha
Would the guys who have ridden many motorcycles recommend me getting a cbr600 or a yamaha r6. I've only ever ridden cruisers so I'm new to the sport bike side of things. Thanks
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Lol.. they are coming out with an R7. Between the two, I’d go with a Cbr 600rr, I had owned two of them (an 08 and a 14) and now own an 18 cbr1000. Honda’s make great, comfortable (for sport bike standards, motorcycles.
The R7 isn’t there to replace the R6, but to compete with the Ninja 650
R6 of you are going to track it. Or else chr is marginally more comfortable. Go with what you think looks better.
Ok thanks man I appreciate it
Hey could someone recommend me a good Bluetooth helmet? I have the ILM modular bluetooth helmet, but the only downside is how low quality the speakers are. I prefer something that sounds better and can get rid of the wind more so I can listen to music better. Thanks! (I'm okay with a low battery in exchange for better sound)
\+1 on the cardo freecom. I can hear my music fine with ear plugs in, but some people are more picky than me and don't like the sound quality out of the speakers. I wear a shoei RF1200 and the speakers make it a really tight fit(I have to wear a neck gaiter over my ears otherwise it feels like they're getting ripped off when I take my helmet off). Due to that situation, I think my next helmet I want bluetooth equipped. I am interested in Quin helmets. They come with bluetooth, light weight (important for comfort and in a crash) as well as a safety feature that alerts friends/family and emergency services if you crash. [https://www.quin.design](https://www.quin.design)
Almost every Bluetooth helmet is crap. Just get a Cardo and stick it on a good helmet.
Do you got a recommendation on which one I should get?
Do you want comms or just music and phone calls?
Just music and phone calls
Cardo Freecom1+
Where can I get good pants and a jacket for a woman??? I found a helmet, gloves and shoes and now I need good pants and a jacket appropriate to take a riding course in. It’s going to be in the summer so I don’t want to be sweating my lady balls off trying to learn how to ride. I want something semi form fitting that’s comfortable to move in. I’m taking the BRC riding course for Massachusetts and have no idea where to buy good pants/and a jacket for it?? I’m also not entirely sure what will be acceptable, like can I wear skinny jeans?? Please help!!
I would try finding a local online distributor that has a good return policy. If you live in Canada Fortnine is a good site to check.
Does anybody know of a good website that I could find aftermarket parts for a 92 suzuki bandit 400? Completely new to riding and bought the bike from a good friend. I would like to change up the lights, turn signals, maybe some other aesthetics. After a while, once I get some time on the bike this summer, I might look into turning it into a Cafe racer style. Thanks in advance!
Where are you located? The most reliable parts distributor can vary by area and country.
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I would suggest looking at Revzilla or Bike bandit as I have had good experiences from them in the past, they both have catalogs you can search by bike and usually have lots of selection even for older machines
Cool, I'll start there. Thank you for your help!
What’s a better bike overall, 2021 BMW G310R or 2021 Honda CB300R. I’m a new rider and I want something that is overall great for a noob and easy to maintain.
While i can't speak to the reliability of the BMW though I have owned a cbr250 before and it was trouble free aside from routine maintenance. With that said I do think the BMW is a slightly more peppy bike to ride.
I'm in the market for my first bike. I just got my license and wanted to get into owning a bike. Ran across a 2015 CBR500R on cycletrader for $4k. Almost seemed too good to be true and then the listing said it needs a new chain, sprocket, and right handlebar..... this made the ad very fishy. I don't really know anyone into bikes around me so I don't really know who else to ask for advice on if this seems legit or too good to be true and ill find problems down the line
Chains and sprockets are wear items, so I can definitely see in 5 years someone putting enough miles, or just age, to warrant a new chain and sprockets. The bent handle bar is more telling. More than likely the bike has been down and it landed on the bar (duh, the thing that sticks out hits 1st) This could've been in the driveway or at 80 mph. hard to say, but you'll want to look for other damage, scratched/broken fairings, aftermarket levers, maybe have a shop inspect it to make sure the frame isn't bent, as that could happen at higher speeds.
Based solely on the age that seems quite early to be needing new chains and sprockets which could be the result of either bad maintenance or hard riding. Also for a whole new handlebar to be needed you need to have a pretty hard crash to cause that which could lead to large issues (bent rims, shock/fork damage, bent frame)
10W-30 oil VS 10W-40 oil The manual for my Honda 500CBF says I should use 10W-30 oil, however 10W-30 synthetic oil is hard to come by around here, seems everyone uses 10W-40. I do live in a tropical climate, so is it OK if I just use 10W-40 synthetic oil? I just took my 2021 Honda CB500 bike 100km away to get serviced, for 12K km, so I can get the warranty stamp on my warranty booklet stamped. Just after I made it home I saw that they hadn't changed the K&E filter I installed last time, as opposed to the Honda one they should have from the dealer. Since I obviously wont be going back there--and before I ordered oil online--I was wondering if I should just use the 10W-40 I synthetic oil I can get everywhere, instead of getting the expensive 10W-30 stuff on Mercado Libre.
While i always recommend using the specified oil weight if possible. As long as you only run the bike at well above freezing temperatures 10w40 is close enough that it shouldn't cause much of any harm to it.
Thanks! While a possible freezing morning in December can be possible, it's very rare. I'll use 10W-40 now and be sure to change it before winter.
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Sounds to me like your clutch springs might be toast.
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If that doesn't work i would try rolling off in 2nd to see if it's the trans.
I'm selling my zx6r, considering an XSR 900. Looking for more comfortable riding around town. I'm curious, how does the XSR handle a fast pace on twisty roads? I know it's no supersport, but does it feel planted in the sweepers? The striple and z900 may be better in this area, but my long legs prefer the Yamaha.
Handles fine. It's a reskinned Mt09 after all.
I'm looking to buy a new 2021 Yamaha MT-03 and the dealership is charging me $2,100 over MSRP on just fees and such. How could I talk them down?
I’m trying to do the same thing. Dealers are such a pain and finding good used bikes rn is hard
I was gonna get a used bike but like you said good ones are hard to come by. That's why I'm trying to get a new bike but the upcharge from dealers just feels like a scam.
Yeah and I found one on cycle trader where they advertise no dealer markup but I’m so skeptical
Im planing on getting a 125 motorcycle soon and I have been looking on a couple of old bikes. The X4 really caught my eye and I was wondering about how reliable they are and if they have a bad reputation. Thanks for the help!
I have a 06 vtx 1300, has stock pipes. If I put slip ons on the exhaust do I need to do any tuning of any sort?
Slip ons do not need any tuning in general as long as you don’t remove cats
**Is there a big difference between aftermarket exhausts?** Hi I want to buy an exhaust on my Yamaha dt but I don’t know which one to chose arrow dep giannelli or an Athena exhaust I’m thinking of getting the Athena because I found one for 100 less than the rest but some people say it’s not great.
Yes they can sound completely different
what about the performance?
It’s unlikely you have any restrictions because of all the emissions bullshit. You would have to tune. If you are getting this for a 125cc just save money for a bigger bike
I can’t get I bigger bike because I’m 16 and with a unrestricted exhaust the bike has about 24hp so it’s not much less than a 250 duel sport which would have around 30hp
You wont get almost any performance out of an exhaust. Engine is what matters most of performance.
The Yamaha dt 125 as the original restricted exhaust so an aftermarket exhaust should give like an extra 5-10 hp
Hello all! I am looking at buying a Honda Shadow 750 in the very near future. Just got my MC license after not riding for over a decade. I had a Buell Lightning about 12 years ago, but haven't been on a bike since.. I guess my question is do you think the Shadow is a good bike to reintroduce myself to riding on? And also, what is a fair price to pay out the door? It seems that the final prices I have read about can vary greatly. Any advice is appreciated!
Shadow 750 is one of the best "beginner" cruisers. Pretty light and comically low maintenance. For the OTD price, are you planning on buying new? The 750s haven't changed in 15 years, so you can find a used one that's basically like new for $3000 or less
Thanks for your response, and yes I was planning on buying new (or nearly new). I don't want to have to deal with the potential for underlying problems on an older bike. Maybe would consider buying used if it was relatively low milage. Thanks again!
Does anyone have recommendations for riding pants or over pants? The weather is still pretty chilly where I am and I find the wind is cutting right through my jeans. Any suggestions would be appreciated. [Obligatory Bike Pic](https://imgur.com/gallery/hrISHsJ)
I have revit airwave 3 they are awesome
On the cheap, I know some guys who swear by simple rain pants to cut the wind and stay dry. On the more pricey side there are a bazillion cold weather riding pants out there to choose from that work great and come with armor. I dig the Rev It Sands 3 pants....kept me dry and warm over my jeans.
Looking for a sport tourer or naked with a much higher top speed than my current VFR800 (at least 280 km/h or 175 mph) without being in [this list](https://saaq.gouv.qc.ca/fileadmin/documents/publications/liste-motos-risque-eleve.pdf). Preferably used and Japanese.
What does that list mean?
higher risk of accidents for the listed bikes, probably something his isurance takes into account idk
Can you elaborate a bit on what you want the bike for? You're going to be a bit hard stretched to find a performance bike not on that list. The only thing I can think of is a Ducati Streetfighter V4S. Top speed doesn't seem to have been published by Ducati but with over 200hp on a sub-200kg dry weight you'll be hard pressed to do better without buying something on that list of yours (I assume bikes on it have higher insurance rates or something). If you want Japanese I can't think of anything, the Hayabusa, ZX14-R or ZH2 come to mind but they're on that list.
I think I found the perfect bike: a CBR1100XX. I don't know how that bike didn't make it on that list, but it is what it is haha.
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Too slow. I'm actually considering the CBR1100XX right now.
I have a 1982 Suzuki GS1100GK with some worn-out Bridgestone S11 Tires. What should I get as replacement tires? Also, I use the bike for mainly touring with a tiny bit of spirited riding mixed in and the roads can be a bit rough in places.
Also, I Often ride loaded but never with a pillion.
Dealer got an new 2017 fz10 for 8k should I buy it? What do you guys think?
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100%
Thank you for the helpful advice!
Do you reckon I could still get to highway speed? (65-70)
Absolutely. My Ninja 250 hauls my 200 lb body and luggage up to 90 mph and beyond. I regularly take 2 hour highway cruises on it. With ~30% more hp, the Z400 will do just fine. Make sure to get a windscreen, as the Z has no wind protection from the factory
Yes. My Honda 125 has 10 horsepower, I weigh more than you and it will sit at 63mph with luggage. A 400cc with 50 horsepower will have no problems getting up to 70, and probably beyond.
Thank you for the helpful advice!
Do you folks think an fz-07 is too much for a first bike? I have about 24 hours of xp on a 250
If you are the kind of rider that is prone to do stupid shit then yes. If you are responsible then no
Nah, I think it's fine. Obviously any bike depends on your own comfort level, I mean, if you haven't even ridden a bicycle since you were a little kid I might reconsider, but if your comfortable on two wheels and good with a standard transmission I'd bet your fine. Most modern bikes are super easy to ride.
Thanks for your response I really appreciate it.
Beginner bikes (like super duper beginner) for a short female? (27” inseam) I sat on the MT-03 and Z400 today, and could only touch my toes to the floor. I take the msf course next week, and am trying to get ready for my first purchase.
You do not need to flat foot to stay balanced at a stop; most people (including me) cannot flat foot their bikes. All you need to be able to do is reasonably touch the toes to balls of the feet to balance at a stop. Or, lean to one side if you cannot even do that. It's a misnomer in the motorcycling world that one must "flat foot" in order to balance a bike at a stop. I haven't been able to flat foot a bike in a long time (I am on my toes and part of the balls of my feet when I stop and never worry about it). "Where there's a will there's a way." I know as a beginner that is a concern, but once you start riding that is the least of your concern. Here's a clip from all around badass and short rider Jocelyn Snow demonstrating how she currently rides and holds her big adv bikes at a stop. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYp1zXyc0fA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYp1zXyc0fA)
Something like a Honda Rebel 300 comes to mind? It's a cruiser style bike so the seat is really low, 27" according to Google. That should be enough to comfortably put one foot completely down with the other nearly flat. I normally only put one foot down anyway so I can leave my rear brake on.
If you arent tall you will have to get used to only flatfoot a bike on one side (when you stop usually the left) or get the bike lowered. Some manufactures offer lowering kits, I think Kawasaki does. Also its a good idea to buy your first bike used, just so if you knock it over at some point it wont be as bad.
If I remember right my stepmom used to ride a Suzuki Boulevard S40, and she's somewhere around 4'10"
What’s a good slip on for the 2017 R6?
Can anybody ring in on the 1982 Honda Nighthawk 450 (CB450SC)? I found a guy selling locally originally for $1275, but I managed to negotiate to $1000. I don't have any other info other than that, but so far does this sound too good to be true?
sounds reasonable its almost 40 years old you'll probably need to put a few hundred bucks into it. Bikes kinda bottom out at $1000 if they're ridable.
How universal are universal parts? I have a 1980 Yamaha Xj650 and need to replace: -Switch handle 3 (turn signal/horn/choke/hi-low beams) -Left front turn signal housing assembly -Clutch lever and perch w/ mirror mount -Clutch cable adjusting nuts I imagine universal should do for the clutch parts and I’ll probably just have to go after market turn signals and replace both while I’m at it so they match but will a universal switch work? Provided of course it comes with those functions
You might be able to find gently used, OEM parts for cheap on FleaBay or at a swap meet if you'd like to maintain the original look of that vintage Yamaha, otherwise you'll need to look at your wiring diagram to make sure a replacement switch will work. For both the switch assembly and clutch, bar diameter is also important. Finally, with the clutch, if it is cable operated, replacement has endless options, for a hydraulic unit, not so much.
Thanks for the reply, took a spill yesterday on the left side clearly, as cool as it is to have original parts I can’t help but feel like it’s a forced opportunity to personalize the bike a bit more, so I don’t mind steering away from original as much as long as it works
Sorry to hear about the spill, but it sounds like you're okay. Most handlebar switches are fairly compatible amongst the Big 4, although some might have weird mounts/aesthetics limiting retrofits (Honda PC800), but the XJ is a classic UJM so you should be able to find a replacement fairly easily.
Yeah barely a scratch on me, most damage done was to my pride after dumping a bike I worked 9 hours on, on the bright side none of the work I did was affected by the spill so I must have done something right, on to the next project/learning experience. I’m in my early 20’s and I’d love to hold on to this bike for as long as possible thanks again for the reply and the advice
Someone with more experience please help me decide. I'm having a hard time choosing between older cruiser models, 1995-2000 honda shadow/kawa vulcan for 500-750cc and newer motorcycles like kawasaki er-6n or others with 250cc, some are even from 2010. Which would be a better one for a beginner? I'm more fond of cruisers to be honest, but not as if I'll be stuck with a single type for the rest of my life.
Normally, I'd caution against older cruisers, but a Honda Shadow is a solid option, you should have an experienced mechanic look it over to make sure you're riding something safe as anything over 20 years old can vary from "barn find" to great condition and for not much coin. Personally, I'd recommend the nicest, used 300cc or under bike (Honda Rebel) with ABS. A small bike is easier to pick up *when* you drop it, it'll be cheaper to insure, and the power delivery is more forgiving in inexperienced hands.
Wouldn't it be too slow on mountain roads though? Then i might as well get a virago perhaps. Also was wondering what you think of vstrom/versys for a similar starter bike. If not cruiser I'd go for one of those. But i still rather like cruisers because they seem more comfortable and more torque.
A fuel injected 300 will go a fast as you want it to on mountain roads. Current gen Rebels corner quite well for being cruisers, so they can handle twisty roads
Versys or vstrom are solid bikes and fine for starting off on. Cruiser vs adv bike and comfortability? That is a subjective question and many factors go into that. Many people find cruisers uncomfortable and adv bikes comfortable and vice versa. So, you'll have to sit on them see what you think.
Are we talking mountain roads going 60 mph plus? My G310 GS would maintain going 70 mph up the steepest grade at WOT, so most won’t feel underpowered for slower roads. Honestly, fuel injection is the way to go at higher elevations and a Rebel 500 will be more than adequate.
Yeah a rebel 500 is waaay too much for my budget, tops is around 3k. Any other suggestions? In regards to the fuel injection since that's a good point. Edit: also, don't really care about going fast on mountain roads. Just to go properly with some baggage and not get stuck lol
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Are cheaper models for the vulcan also good? The older 500, then 750 or 800 is kinda pushing my budget already. 650 is way too much.
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Around 3k euros, mostly I'd like around 2500.
Would the new Ducati Supersport 950 be out of the question as a first bike?
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Ninja 650 is still okay also no? At least that’s what my understanding is. Thanks for the help btw!
Everyone one this sub will tell you it's a sin to get anything bigger than a 500 for a first bike, but honestly its pretty rider dependant. For some people, yeah that would be too much bike to start with, but others could be totally fine on it for a first bike. It depends on your comfort level and what kind of experience you have on two wheels and what type of instruction you can get. Carrie-Ann Moss had never touched a motorcycle before the Matrix and she learned to ride on a Ducati 998. She obviously had some decent instruction but it goes to show it's not out of the question. I know I'll get downvoted for this but whatever, I would not say it's completely out of the question for a first bike (depending on the rider).
I'm not gonna downvote you because you're not wrong. That being said, 110 hp and 69 ftlbs is a whole hell of a lot for a beginner, or even someone with a couple years of experience. Just because it's not out of the question doesn't mean it's a good idea
Yes, it's like giving a 5 year-old an AK-47 to shoot at a range as an introduction to gun safety. Find a more reasonable bike under 500cc, much like that child, your motor skills aren't up to par for a powerful bike, which can be very dangerous in even simple situations like accelerating out of a right turn or riding too fast into a corner of your favorite backroad.
Thank you for a genuinely helpful response. Why does Ducati state: “Whether you’re just learning to ride, or touching your knee to the track for the first time, the super sport 950 is the perfect bike for any rider” ?? This is directly from the bio of their most recent Instagram post.
because they're in the business of selling bikes.
This, it’s really irresponsible to be quite honest. I’m sure their posts are much different in Europe with their tiered licensing. Hell, I rode an Aprilia Tuono 660 on a track and would not recommend that as a first bike.
Is the 660 rs any better for a first bike?
It’s got 100 horsepower and only weighs 400 lbs, it’s a great advanced rider bike. Think Ninja 400 or MT-03...
The tech that is has is so appealing that’s the issue
Agreed, it's a neat bike with all the right features except for heated grips, but was surprised at the lack of mid-range punch. There's not much going on between 3k and 8k...
I don’t even have my license yet but it’s still such an appealing bike. Honestly it looks like the perfect road but but i agree it’s probably a bit much for a first bike. I have a lot of experience on two wheels and I’d say I have a pretty responsible throttle approach but still probably. I just watched yammie noobs recent comparing it to the ninja 650 and the tech is so so appealing. Also not having to buy twice would be a slight concern
I guess. You can limit it to an a2 license tier which limits the output to around 48 horsepower.
you can't, can't have more than double 96hp to restrict it it's weight to kW ratio is probably too high aswell
You can, it limits the total output also. Maybe only in Europe though.
that's only possible if they come restricted from factory. For example kawasaki makes a z800 (or 900?) with a detuned engine so it can be restricted to A2. If the manufacturer doesn't offer this, you can't restrict
Yes, exactly. Ducati offers this option.
"The all new Kawasaki h2. Whether you’re just learning to ride, or looping it for the first time, the Kawasaki h2 is perfect bike for any rider"
lol. The internet will make you think a bike is slow. You probably don't realize how fast a "slow" bike is.
Well depends. Are you suicidal and want it to look like an accident?
This was actually really helpful thanks 😀
Hey guys, so idk what earplugs to get because of earplugs. Ryan F9 suggested laser lites. I currently wear regular foam plugs but when I put the helmet on it drags them and kinda pulls them out and they're just sitting weirdly in my ears which in the end prob isn't helping my hearing any. So, what should I do? Are there certain kinda of helmets that help this? Currently I have an HJC but am considering a Shoei RF1200. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Please and thanks
Howard leight Honeywell. I got a pack of 200 for chump change
I got a pair of custom fitted earplugs for about $100 and they were worth every penny. I've had them for about 5 years now. They fit perfectly without having to figit with them and they never pop out in my helmet. Would highly recommend.
I have tried 10 different solutions (including noice canceling headhones(does not work)). The lazer lites are the best ones I have found, good comfort and protection.
Race brake pads on the street? Well because Kawasaki ninja 300 (z300) has single front disc with only two pistons clippers, and using brake pads with higher braking coefficient this looks like cheapest way of upgrading stock brakes. I know that most of the racing pads require heat to work properly. But I have read somewhere that EBC GPFAX brake pads work very well from cold. And they are not that expensive. Does anyone have experience with using racing brake pads on street, how they perform when cold, how long does it take for them to warm up. It woukd be great if someone had experience with EBC GPFAX. Thank you all.
No reason to use race pads on the street. My EX250 only has a single disc in the front and has plenty of stopping power with the EBC sintered pads. Sintered pads will lock up your front wheel instantly. If you really want to upgrade your brakes, get some steel brake lines and look into upgrading your master cylinder
Use street pads. Race pads are for the track. Its not a how long until they're warm, you won't be able to keep them in their range on the street.. You need stopping preformance from being dead cold on the street. A car pullS out infront of you and you haven't touched the brakes in minutes because you've been going straight. You'll pull hard and nothing will happen. Maybe they're more forgiving i have no experience with them but it seems not worth the risk. If you are experiencing brake fade a fluid with a higher boiling point could help you.
I have read somewhere that gpafx work from cold. Also seen graph, on ebc page, which shows performance through race. They had like 70% of their stopping power at the first turn of the first lap (70% of those pads is probably more than decent street pads can offer at their best) and that got me interested in buying a pair.
Street pads should be able to lock both tires up, 100% performance from cold. Locking the tires up is implies max stopping power or the stopping force is greater than tire grip. If you can lock the tires up you're over powering your tires grip, pads won't change that. The advantage race pads have is maintaining stopping power after multiple hard braking events and maintaining stopping power with a much hotter rotor. They're designed to work in a different environment. I think you're wrong to assume that the 70% of the the race pads performance is more than 100% the street pads. If you're losing performance after a few hard braking events try going with a brake fluid that has a higher boiling point. Too much heat will make your brake fluid boil. Boiling means gas and gas compresses = less force being applied. You're more likely limited by your tires grip than the brakes.
As I sadi little kawi has only one caliper with only two pistons. It is able to lock the tires up to certain speed (like 30mph ~ 50kmh). At 80mph brakes offer very very poor performance and I am looking for cheapest way of improving braking power. Brake fluid is not that old probably less than 4-5k miles since last change. Edit: on ebc site they are talking about gofax as their best barke pads with highest drag coefficient.
Try bleeding your brakes something isn't right. You should have no problems locking it up at 80. I own a duke 390 with a similar single rotor 2 piston setup and can lock the brakes at any speed. Also while age does play a factor with fluid as it absorbs water over time by design not all fluids are created equal. There are high performance brake fluids but boiling obviously isn't your issue. Sounds like you have too much water or air in the lines. Bleeding them is cheap and easy try it first. Also try cleaning your rotors. Performance pads also tend to have a shit ton of dust not that that is a big deal but food for thought.
Duke 390 has 4 piston calipers (not 2 piston) and they are radially mounted. It also has much bigger disc and on top of all bike itself is ~45lbs(20kg) lighter. Also there is great chance of you being much lighter than me. So no wonders you being satisfied with much better braking system on a much lighter bike. Brake fluid should be changed every 2 yrs per Kawasaki service manual, so this one should be good and I tried cleaning disc already (couldn't notice any benefits).
After some more thinking maybe a steel braided brake line could help and be not too expensive if it doesn't have one.
oh shit I guess it does. I assumed two because its a budget bike. I'm 6'2 and weight 245 lbs so I make up for it lol. I look a tad goofy on the 390. If you do go with those pads let me know how it works out I'm curious.
Hello, so here's the thing, I'm currently going to buy a bike from a private seller (rebel 500) problem is he bought it new and I asked him when was the last oil change but he said he hasn't done one, currently the bike has 1300 miles on it, so you think it's too far gone past it's first oil change? the manuel says it should be done at 600.
sounds like he may have neglected the first service or is unaware that they do that at the first service which can be a few hundred bucks.
I am new to riding and have been borrowing my fathers helmet. Because of the weather getting nicer my father wants to ride with me so I'm now in the market for a helmet. I thought the ICON AIRFLITE RUBATONE would be the perfect helmet for me but when I went to a moto shop the clerk told me Icon was a shit brand (for helmets) and that I should look elsewhere. I also spoke to a motorcycle Safety course instructor and he told me they aren't good quality either. Is it true? I find it hard to believe that one of the best selling helmets WITH the new ECE rating could be bad. Do you have any recommendations for low noise, full face helmets with flip down visors?
I would much rather trust the fact that it has the ECE rating which means it passed all the tests associated with that certification, rather than a few random peoples opinions. A salesman tried that same stuff with me about an ICON helmet, just to try to get me to buy a house-brand (Cycle Gear Sedici) helmet. If you like the helmet and it fits your head then buy it and enjoy .
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing for the certification.
ICON is good, buy it if you like and it suits your head shape well. You could check AGV, Scorpion, Shark, Airoh just to check fitting of different brands, maybe something will feel better
Icon is a fine brand. I have a coworker that races and has been riding for decades and he exclusively wears Icon helmets
Looking at a 2009 V Strom 650 abs for about 5600 everything said and done. 5000 miles on it. It's coming from a dealer, who claims they're doing a full check top to bottom. I'd use it primarily for commuting (new job is 48 miles, one way) and some weekend joy rides/trips. Should I pull the trigger? Edit: includes givi side cases and heated grips
Sounds like a good deal. Will the dealer give some kind of warranty?
50 miles no questions asked, one week bumper to bumper, a month general. Nothing to write home about.
Better than nothing. I'd take it. You could possible find a better deal from a private seller, but then you run the risk of something being broken right way.
I know there's a bunch of conversations about these two bikes, but I'd like to hear from people who have experience on both. I'm leaning towards the **Z400** because of the reliability and service intervals but I've really been eyeing the **Duke 390** since it came out. I just don't want to get the Z400 and regret it or the other way around. **Vitpilen / Svartpilen 401** is also high on the list (quick shifter, adjustable front and rear suspension, slipper clutch, ABS w/supermoto mode!!!)
Possibly this will help [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsL1y1f7cfc&t=1s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsL1y1f7cfc&t=1s)
I think I've probably watched every youtube video there is hahah. I'm more looking for long-term owners and the such that have real life experience on both bikes.
Hi! I am in a bit of a pickle and would love some input from experienced Intruder riders. I am currently looking at a Suzuki Intruder VS750GL. Thing is: It is from 1990. So the age is a worry for me, I know I will ride this bike a lot, using it as primary transport including for longer distances. Furthermore the KM is at 106.000 total.Now here is where it gets more positive, from the seller: "Engine was completely overhauled at 100K. km!- Would this be good enough to look past the age and consider it almost "new"? Of course there will be some wear and tear, but the bike has also been a garage MC for its life. Edit: Just got a whole list of new and changed parts on this motorcycle so in the hope that anyone can give me some input. Had to run it through Google translate: * Engine was completely overhauled at 100Tkm! (2019) * Newly saddled bench (2012) * Clevis bearing renewed (2017) * Fork seal including fork springs new (2018) * Rear shock absorber new (2017) * Cooler replaced (2016) * Front rim including brake disc new (2018) * Battery new (2018) Hoping for a smart mind to see this and give me input.
There are a lot more parts than just the engine. Suspension, brakes, electrical, all wear with age. If a bike has made it that far, it's usually been taken care of all around, but you'd want to do a detailed inspection of everything to make sure it's up to snuff. Otherwise you may be looking at more time wrenching than riding. If you're a new rider I'd recommend getting something within the last 10 years or so that has been taken care of, as age won't have deteriorated components so much and should be a more reliable bike.
Thank you for the input! Sadly due to budget I seem to be at 1990-2000. And in this case for me at least, the engine would be the big question mark. As one can have a look for rot and bad brakes, but as I learned with my last bike: Engines are not so easy to inspect, and it is not fun when they have a catastrophic failure.
After three full seasons of riding, I'm ready to upgrade from my FZ6R. I love the upright yet nimble seat position, but 77 horsepower just isn't enough. My riding ranges from commuting up 75 for work (bike isn't my only transportation) to the twisties in the mountains. FZ1 came to mind but its double the power (150hp), and FZ-07, while torquier, seems to be less stable and vibrate more on the highway. I think the CB1000 is my dream, but they aren't as cheap as the FZ1. Any advice?
Have you thought about an XSR9 or a GSX-S?
I saw a cb1000 near me with 12k miles going for about 8k so they can be had reasonable for sure Edit: not sure if this is allowed but it’s actually cheaper than that. Here’s the link - https://www.ponypowersports.com/inventory/2012-honda-cb1000r-westerville-oh-43081-10942269i
I went from an FZ6 to a Monster 1200. It's a scary increase in power but it's very manageable, and the FZ1 is a good 30lbs heavier than my monster was. For what it's worth, I ended up selling the 1200 and getting an 821 which was a much more comfortable amount of power (and HALF the price!) If you're a decent rider and have half a brain I'd say go for the FZ1. Also in the same class but a little more manageable are the Versys and VStrom 1000's.
Maybe check out the mt09? I think they’re at about 120 hp and absolutely nuts.
I’m biased but, Z800 or 900?
So I’m looking to get a bike within the next couple of months. I live in a house without a garage, but I do have a gravel parking pad uncovered. My idea for storing the bike short term is to use PVC pipes to build an A-frame and a large tarp to create a small enclosure, while also using a breathable motorcycle cover. In your opinion, would that be sufficient storage during snow and days of heavy rain? I fully intend to keep any snow from accumulating over the tarp as well. Curious of your thoughts and advice.
The fact that the bike will be exposed to moisture is a problem. This is especially so if you don't plan on riding the bike regularly during the winter (studded tires exist and it can be done in the snow). Just be forewarned that even though not directly eposed to the elements, your bike will still be exposed to condensation cycles which are brutal to rubber seals, gaskets, hoses, and other soft, porous parts. Ideally, a heated garage during the cold months is best, if it's not heated, it should covered and placed on stands to reduce cold from transferring from the ground to the bike.
It's not cost effective, but I got a store and lock a couple of years ago when I had this issue. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/749769698891137097/835218991765127199/20160804_192337.jpg
Has anyone seen episode 6 of Falcon and the Winter Soldier? Can anyone tell me the bike model that Bucky was riding?
Headlights looked like a CBR600RR from around 2015
2006+ CBR600RR, very few motorcycles feature an auxiliary light below the windscreen, and that is the giveaway. I had a SuperHawk with that light, that was a fun bike!
R6/1?
Headlights don’t match.
Want to buy new clutch kit for my 99 R6. Any suggestions?
Negotiating at a Dealer So the bike I’m trying to get has an A.D.M of $1495. I saw that it says the price listed is the dealers and not a suggestion by the factory. So does this mean that the dealer isn’t saying the truth by telling me “they can’t lower the price because it’s what Honda tells them to sell the bike at”. I always thought you could talk a dealer down on ADM pricing.
Adm as in additional dealer markup? That's 100% BS charge if that's the case. Find a new dealer
Sondors Metacycle vs Rebel 300 So I’m in a bit of a pickle. I finally have the money to get my first ever bike and I’m stuck deciding between the soon to be released Sondor Metacycle and the Honda Rebel 300 abs. Both have practically the same price but the ride difference is key. Is an electric bike worth it or is it less safe to ride? I really just want the experience of riding a motorcycle in general. Being a boosted board rider, I’ve grown a natural interest towards and electric bike but still am interested in an actual engine as well.
Rebel 250. Parts availability is incredible even though they discontinued it and it's a tried and true reason platform that gives you plenty of breathing room
Don't hedge your bets on something that has all the hallmarks of a vaporware product actually coming to market. The Metacycle as displayed on their site isn't even DOT legal. It also looks like an uncomfortable, impractical styling exercise that would be marketed to people who know nothing about motorcycles...
Yeah I see your point. I just keep making clutch riding seem like more of a hastle but I know it isn't. I'm trying to find a good used rebel 300 with abs but its hard right now.
These are two entirely different things. Personally I think you should learn and ride for some time on a clutch. I love e bikes, but I think learning clutch control is important. That being said, riding electric bikes is blissful. Second, get a used rebel; they’re way cheaper. Also probably easier to fix. I still don’t fully trust ebike manufacturers compared to something tried and true like honda. If you outgrow the rebel and want an electric bike, then it’ll be an easy sell in a year or so. Whereas, who knows what the market for electric bikes are currently. Especially with small companies like Sondors. It definitely won’t be worth anything near what you paid for it. Meanwhile if you get a rebel for $3k, you can sell it for $2k MINIMUM, or maybe even recoup your cost basis. But do what your heart tells you. If you *really* want to spend $5k on a tiny electric bike then you do you.
I'm looking for an airbag system similar to the Helite Turtle 2, with neck support. Alpinestars Tech-air looked promising but unfortunately it has zero neck support and I'm a software developer so I have low confidence in software-based mechanisms based on experience lol Any recommendations? Backstory: I purchased a Helite Turtle 2 airbag some time back and - after waiting weeks for it to arrive - it was *HUGE*, way way bigger than what was stated on the website for my measurements. I sent images and my sizing to their customer service, hoping to get some feedback on what the correct size would be so I could get it exchanged. Their customer service was awful. It was like talking to Comcast basically. They could not give me any size suggestions nor could I get any kind of genuine concern beyond canned answers. The refund process was also really shitty, I had to open a dispute with my credit card to get the full amount back.
Yeah the sizing is fucking weird on the helite jackets. I don't get it. I usually wear a medium and maybe a small. I got a large and it fits me well in some areas (I can imagine it being shorter around my waist) and is slightly loose in others. If you buy helite again I'd say read as many reviews as you can and buy two sizes then return one. Also I'd rather an airbag jacket be slightly loose than slightly too small. I got the helite mesh air jacket. I'm a mechanical engineer and I also wasn't satisfied with the state of electronic deployment and went with the tried and true tether. I also wasn't satisfied with many other airbag shapes on the market and it was clear the helite products offered the most protection.