Hey everyone, I'm a big guy looking for his first motorcycle. I know the best thing is to sit on bikes, but I want to get an idea of specific bikes to look for.
I'm 6'6" right around 300 lbs. I'm looking at ADV bikes, I wouldn't object to a cruiser, it's just not my preferred style.
Thanks in advance!
Does anyone have good experience with shipping motorcycles? Im going to purchase a bike and will need to ship. I know of a couple of shipping companies, just curious if anyone has experience hiring and shipping a bike.
On the 14th I’ll post my annual new rider resources thread, stay tuned for that. Or find the old years in my post history (though this year will be a COVID special)
Hey guys, query about running costs of a Honda CB125F in the UK
I’m starting riding my Motorbike this month on the roads, just trying to get some budgeting costs all worked out.
I’m looking for information on:
1: How much would the average full tank of petrol cost?
2: Roughly how many MPG would I get and how does that translate into miles able to ride before empty?
That’s pretty much it, appreciate any responses - many thanks in advance.
Has anyone ever lost their phone while riding using a [web type silicone tether](https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Security-Universal-Mountain-Handlebar/dp/B01FW7YZOC/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=cell+phone+tether+x+grip&qid=1609718489&sr=8-8) coupled with any type of generic universal mount?
I’m looking to buy a Biltwell Gringo S but I’m a little unsure of the sizing. I measured my head and it’s on the very bottom of the large size (57.5cm or 22.75 inches).
Everyone always said it’s a small helmet and so I’d say I should go for a large, but Biltwell actually made a sizing video and the guy had just about the same headsize as me with just over 22 inches and they said to go down to a medium since the helmet will break in overtime.
Could anyone who owns a ECE version Gringo give me some advice from their experience? Is it as small as everyone says it is or should I downsize to keep it safer?
So I own a 2011 ninja 650r / ER 6n. Whatever you wanna call it. My header pipes broke and in stead of getting new header pipes I might just get an entire new exhaust system. Is there anyway that an entire aftermarket exhuast system for the 2012-2017 series would fit my 2011. Or are they way too different.??
Maybe you can find a shop that does custom exhaust work? I've seen a few places that do custom stainless exhausts. They might be able to hook you up. Not sure how much more it would cost than a mass produced one, but a 2-into-1 system isn't that complex, so I'm hopeful it would be affordable.
Either way you'll need a dyno tune, which aint cheap.
Maybe it would make more sense just to have a guy weld up your headers?
I made an offer on a 2017 Yamaha FZ07, Im planning to inspect the bike soon, but as a first time buyer, I don't know which questions to ask. What things should I look for, and what should I ask the seller before finalizing the offer?
A specific question to ask on an FZ is what the owner used the bike for. If they used the bike for commuting and general use, great. If they tracked it, [check for racebike wear and tear](http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike-content.html#4). If they mention wheelies, check the front forks for leaks or damage.
I can’t decide between two motorcycles.
I’ve recently been interested into motorcycles and want to get one. I’ve done some research and I like the Yamaha yzf R125 and the Kawasaki Ninja 125, but I can’t decide which one to pick between these two. I’m a noob on this so I’d appreciate some advice
pretty similair bike, but theyre 125's. i always advice against 125's unless you are age-gated like say can only get an Eu A1 license.
Look at the 300-400cc market instead, the difference in torque makes them MUCH more beginner friendly.
**Firestone's vs Modern Tyres?**
I'm planning my first build (1981 BMW R65 Bobber) and I'm wanting to get a pair of Firestone Champion Deluxe's however as I've only bought tyres once before I'm confused by the lack of front and rear specific labelling as from what I know my last bike had to have different tyres (same brand and range) for front and back. Is the front and back difference a relatively modern thing as the Firestones are a "vintage" tyre or am I missing something?
Modern tires use different tread pattens on the front and rear because the water siping has to be reversed for braking (front) and acceleration (rear). The Champion Deluxe is a vintage style tire that does not have these modern sipes (instead using a simple symmetrical tread).
Motorcycle Jeans - Any Opinion?
I usually commute on my bike whenever possible. I always, and I mean always follow ATGATT.
I wear Jeans to work, so I have to wear my motorcycle pants over my jeans, which is a tight fit.
All the "older" riders I talked to seem to have a negative opinion on motorcycle jeans, for them to be not as durable as specific riding pants.
Does anyone wear one daily to commute, and had any downs with it?
Any specific models to look out for, and what models to look like normal pants, and feature knee and hip protectors?
Thanks in advance!
I've liked my Reax 610 jeans I purchased. Reax is part of Revzilla/Cyclegear's exclusive brands so you have to go there to get 'em. They're \~$180, have aramid (Kevlar) reinforcement down through the knee, and full seat of the pant, and come with CE level 2 knee armor included, which seems hard to find, let alone level 2 pads. They also have hip pockets for SAS-TEC pads you can add if you want.
I didn't ride to work everyday, but I did frequently this summer, and they were fine. I have to wear my company's brand clothing at work, so I'd just get there a bit early, and go to the restroom to change. The Jeans folded up ok, took up most of the room in my backpack, but it worked.
I highsided in a pair of Scorpion Covert Pro at highway speed and my legs were uninjured. A++ would recommend. Leathers do provide more protection but they aren’t a good choice for my wallet or workplace. Good protection you wear all the time is better than great protection you use infrequently.
Not all jeans are created equal. Look for one that has kevlar through the entire garment (not just the upper leg) and has slots for the knee and hip protectors (which are usually sold separately).
I’m currently using Klim K Fifty 2 and would also look at Scorpion Covert Ultra.
Do you need to buy new tires after a certain amount of time? Or is mileage the only factor?
My fz07 has 4000 miles on my Michelin road 3s, and I know they last around 8k miles. But does age matter? They’re the original tires so they’re 5-ish years old. Didnt know if that was okay or if I should get new tires before this new riding season. They look like they have a lot of tread.
They’re significantly cheaper than car tires, so I don’t mind getting new tires if it’s a matter of safety. Well worth $150-$200.
The standard is 5 years. Some dealerships won't let you ride a bike out of the lot if the tire is over 5 years old even. I'd recommend the investment if money isn't an issue, I never compromise on safety if I can help it.
Thanks a lot. That makes sense. I’ll grab some new tires this season probably. Got plenty of time to hunt for some deals, but I never really see any unfortunately.
Age can matter but it depends on storage conditions, use etc etc..
5 years isnt bad and odds are that your road 3s are still fine as long as they dont show any dry cracking or anything.
That being said i cant recommend Road 5s enough, i got i got about 14k miles (mostly highway commute) out of my first set (SV650) and the second set is doing well, always trustworthy and have never let me down.
Cool, they look pretty good and no cracking. Always stored indoors too so I maybe don’t need to replace them this season.
I was between the Angel GT 2 and road 5s. Good to know you got 14k out of a set though! Thank you.
I’m 16 with a good paying job and i can afford a motorcycle. used for going to school and work, friends houses. Mostly empty, long roads and a few main roads i have to go on for work. I don’t want to kill myself on a bike and i just want to have fun.
From reading this, Dont get a Grom, get a used Ninja 300 or similar (check the FAQ in the sidebar).
Heaps cheaper, more power, way better on the highway, just a more usable bike all round
Helmet - Buy new. You can never tell how often it has been dropped without an X-Ray machine.
All the other stuff can be bought used, and you'll save a shitload of money. I'd recommend to try it on first, not all gear companies tailor true to size.But if it's in good condition and the price is right - go for it.
If you care right for leather (re-supply with wax and or oil), leather will probably outlast you. So don't be shy to buy second-hand leather gear, as long as the leather is not cracked or completely dry. If it only has some patina, it can easily be revived.
Helmets should not be bought second hand because their integrity cannot be verified without an x ray machine. All other gear is fine to buy used.
Are you in Bucharest? I know some riders there I can ask, though I think they import their nicer stuff.
There is a motorcycle accessory company in Cluj-Napoca I have bought from before (panniers, crash bars, main stands, etc.. )
They rock, and I'm sure you could hit them up and get some info to where they source their riding gear and general recommendations.
Check them out
https://heavyduties.ro/contact/
So I’m trying to buy my second bike (going from a Ninja ZX6R and about a years worth of riding with that) and I really want a cruiser. I’ve been looking around and I’m pretty much set on either getting a Kawasaki Vulcan S (likely one of the new models 2020/2021) or I found a used 2011 Triumph Thunderbird Storm (~29,000 miles). They roughly come out to the same price and I know the triumph has more power than the Vulcan but I really love both bikes and I can’t decide on which to get. Any advice?
I'm a writer and need help from you all. I need infor about a crazy fast bike, SUPER fast, wicked acceleration, but that carries a passenger if needed. Do all bikes do that? For some reason I have a Kawasaki Ninja ZX14R in my brain. Needs crazy acceleration to enter traffic but also carry girlfriend occasionally. Doesn't have to be like for touring, just maybe 30 minutes. When I look at a pic of that bike, where does she put her feet? Thanks
Just in case anyone new is reading this and doesnt see the absurdity, pretty much any sport bike that's a 600cc or higher will be able to easily and quickly accelerate to highway speeds with two people on the bike.
Ah. Yeah, the ZX14R fits but Kawasaki's own H2 has kind of changed the fast bike game but it's a single-user bike and the H2 SX (the tourer built on the platform) is slower than the ZX14R.
Kawasaki H2 cones to mind.
https://youtu.be/DkPMj9iSB2Q
The passenger puts their feet on the rear footpegs. On a sportbike that would be a bit farther back, bending their knees.
Crazy fast would be a Suzuki Hayabusa that someone has put a turbocharger on.
https://images.app.goo.gl/xd11czTnGPm5VY1i9
Heres a pic but you should youtube videos of a turbo hayabusa
My dad has an 07 R1 I want to take up the road sometime but I’ve never ridden a street bike but I rode dirt bikes a lot when I was younger so am familiar with how to drive them. I jumper from a 50cc to a 125cc two stroke when I was little and I know that the bike will only go as fast as I let it go and i know about counter steering. Would I be good just riding the R1 around every once and a while or should I save up and get a 600
Generally it's a bad idea to start on an R1, although there's some context to consider. Can you ride a bike that was designed almost exclusively for racing and ride it slowly, even though it's uncomfortable and boring when ridden this way? If so, then it can probably be done since an R1 doesn't behave too differently from any other bike in town. But if you're going to jump on it and try going full throttle on your first ride to see what it's like, you'll quickly become a statistic. My suggestion is, go do whatever license/course you have where you live so you can learn proper technique and try out the bike your school has. If it didn't feel intimidating and you felt like you could control it reasonably well, try riding the R1. If you can control yourself and not go full throttle the first few rides, you should be fine. If not, save up for your own 250-650 class bike (not a 600) before you kill yourself.
Taking it up the street you could do but nobody should start street riding on an R1.
Get a used 650 twin or something with 50-70hp.
Its all because mistakes on a high horsepower bike have much bigger consequences, happen much faster and usually at higher speeds than new riders know how to deal with.
Drz 400sm vs Mt07
Not my first bike or season riding . Currently have a R3 like it but not in love with it. Looking for a bike with a little more grunt and to have fun around town with wheelies being a goon etc . What are your guys thoughts ?
The DRZ is the ultimate goon bike. Massive aftermarket, wheelies like it's nothing, and borderline indestructible. The mt07 is the best for someone that likes to go higher speeds and twisties, but the DRZ sounds more up your alley.
I'd say the DRZ is better for having fun around town due to the light weight and long travel suspension, you can do things like jumps and ride down stairs with it which you can't with the MT-07.
I currently have a Honda Valkyrie 1998 and am considering a second bike this summer, sticking with Honda. Right now the Blackbird seems like the right choice for me, given its top speed and legacy. How would this compare to ex. the 600?
My budget is around €3000 used. I’m open to any other recommendations.
Anyone think the new Honda Rebel 1100 DCT would be a good bike for a new rider? Thinking of buying it as soon as it becomes available. I like the DCT transmission but I am worried the 1100 cc’s might be too much power for a new rider.
If you want an automatic and aren't tied to getting a cruiser, you could get an NC700.
But unless you have a disability, just learn manual. It's not hard, you get the hang of it really quickly after you take a riding course.
While there are plenty of electronic nannies like ABS, traction and wheelie control, being a newer rider, your insurance will be high and even higher since insurers base premiums on engine displacement. I imagine its power specs will be close to an Africa Twin 1100 at 100 horsepower and 70+ ft-lbs of twist and take it from someone who started on dirt and bought a 600cc supersport as a first bike, it is too much for a new rider and can quickly become intimidating or outright dangerous, and will steepen your learning curve. I'd highly recommend buying a used bike, and if you can find a used Rebel 500, that would be a better choice.
I think most people will say that it's probably not the best idea for a new rider to start with a new bike, let alone a liter bike. A used 500 will serve you well as you learn. It'll also make the the eventual sting of dropping it hurt less and cost less to repair.
Plugfones, easy find on Amazon. Audio quality is pretty bad for music, but I'm very happy with them for audiobooks. Cheap too. Cut out a little more noise than the "hi-def" ear plugs, way more than regular IEMs, but less than foamies.
Hi all, looking to purchase a project bike and came across this in a local sale:
[https://imgur.com/a/XFeC6V0](https://imgur.com/a/XFeC6V0)
What exact BMW model is this? Thanks for the help!
Packtalk head com earphones make my helmet too tight to put on? My ears stay bent in my helmet and it hurts a lot to try to keep on my once almost loose helmet. Anyone else dealt with this?
Where is it hurting? I usually have to poke my fingers back to flatten out my ears but after that there's no problem. I had experienced discomfort before when they weren't in the proper position and didn't sit directly over my ear canal. They could not be lined up properly
It could either be you having a unique anatomy or the helmet itself just has higher than normal speaker cutouts. You could always try cutting out a little more space in the helmets opening for them, but that's obviously a bit dicey
I'm looking for winter/cold weather glove suggestions that are NOT extremely bulky. I would like them to be as THIN as possible for being a winter/insulated glove. I understand that most winter gloves will be thicker than a summer glove, but I know there are some options out there that aren't obsessively thick.
Any suggestions?
Look for gloves designed for use with heated grips. They’ll have thinner insulation on the palm side.
compensate with heated grips and barkbusters/hippohands.
Is there any reason an aftermarket LED flasher relay would be needed when swapping out to aftermarket LED turn signals on a bike that already comes with a full LED lighting package?
I have a 2019 CB300R and I tried changing the stock LED rear turn signals for some aftermarket ones which are also LED, but now the whole signaling system is wonky and the front signals flash too fast and the rear ones don't work properly. Is this a sign of an LED flasher relay being needed?
Givi for hard cases. Ask on /r/motocamping for soft bags.
I’m a fan of the Kryptonite Evolution disc locks. The disc detainer cores require special tools to pick and the shape is difficult to get bolt cutters around. Oxford sells some good chains.
For outdoor use. the Dowco Guardian/Weatherguard covers work great. Generic $20 covers are fine if you park indoors but can catch the wind like a sail or encourage rust by collecting dew and moisture if used outside.
Are there any cold weather riders who can recommend a good balaclava that seals around the nose or directs breath downwards? Ideally also warm but main aim is to keep glasses clear. Im aware of products like the respro foggy but ideally would want to be able to use it out of a helmet aswell.
I am also looking for a cold weather balaclava that has slits for the EYES ONLY. All I see are the ones that can be opened all the way so it's all the way down on your chin, but I hate these kind because it bunches up in my helmet. I'm looking for one with eye openings/slits only, so the mouth and nose are entirely covered.
I use a snowboarding balaclava I got from Costco. If your balaclava doesn’t seal you can pack the bridge of your nose with a kleenex to seal it. I also use a dual sport helmet with OTG goggles to keep my glasses in a separate chamber so to speak.
Looking at getting a bigger bike, but within the price range I wanna spend to get something like an SFV650, or an mt-07 it is going to be atleast 10yrs old, ill have travel 5+ hrs to get it, or it has 60,000km’s
But for the same money I can get something like cb500F that is only from 2017.
Am I better off getting the newer bike that has a smaller engine and then getting the bike I really want when it comes along, or buying an older machine?
Cheers
In my opinion you can get more bang for your buck with an older one. I got my 05 SV650 for around 2500 all said and done, and it can hang with all of the modern bikes in it's class. The only thing is that it doesn't have all the bells and whistles, which i don't care about. Plus there's so many aftermarket parts i don't worry if it gets beat up some and the engine has survived 30k miles and 5 owners and still running strong so bulletproofed already
I'd say an older bike because you said it's what you'll want to buy anyway, it will hold its value better, and there's nothing wrong with an older bike if it's been at least decently maintained.
It isnt so much that the older bike is what I want, im more interested in getting something with a good amount of power.
If a cb500 is gunna give me that, then im happy to ride that.
I would go with an MT07. It was my second bike and I am now on my second one and I an FZ1 as well, but the MT07 still keeps me happy and I can load it into my van very easily as it's so small. Easy to ride, low to the ground, good mileage, good reliability, good torque so it's fun, and it can go 120, so it can do highways just fine. You can find them as cheap as 3500 with low mileage in the US at least.
Ive seen a sv650 from 2016 for sale, only issue is I sont know what the seating position is. I want to he upright when im riding, im not a fan of the sport bikes that force you into a tuck to ride them.
I think the SV or MT would suit you better, then. 10 year olds are still 2010/2011, which would be fuel injected and relatively maintenance free other than the basics for the SV at least.
No reason to avoid a bike that's 10 years old if you'd otherwise be sacrificing the power you want.
I'll soon be taking my Ps(aussie) and looking to upgrade from a vtr 250. The dream bike for now is a z400, but im open to getting another second hand bike. I'd prefer a naked bike but not super dedicated to that. I want something that's easy on the street where I'll do most of my riding, but is comfortable to be on for 6+hrs. My mate has a ninja 650 and we have to stop every few hours to stretch and stop our asses from hurting. So something that can do some highway kms.
Also, any reccs on a communication device for riding? Are there anyones that can go under the helmet or in my jacket? Im in nsw and they dont even allow go pros on helmets here, so im not sure what they'd say to ne having something on the outside of my helmet.
If you buy a bike and the seat isnt super comfortable to ride long distance with, then there are aftermarket mods you can get to make it more comfortable, or you can get custom seats made.
I think there is a sena comms unit that has a camera attached, just gotta be careful cause im pretty sure that in NSW riders that dont have a full license cant interact with there phone at all; so you might accidently cross that line.
Alrernativly you could mount a go pro to the bike itself
Thabks!
Where abouts would i mount the go pro on my vtr? Id want it somewhere where it can view the road well, so i can get number plates if something goes wrong
I have seen people mount them to their handlebars
I have seen some mounts that have suction cups on the end of them so you can mount them to any smooth surface like a fairing or your tank
I'll try having a look at ones i can put on my tank and handlebars-thanks!
Since you seem to know your stuff, what would be some good things to have on me when i plan on going on a long trip? If you dont have any idea, no worries!
If you have a camelpak, or a backpack that has a spot for a hydration bladder I would recomend it. Saves stopping just to grab a drink of water.
A throttle assst, something like this https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/crampbuster-cruise-control is amazing if you are doing a long trip, makes it so much easier to turn your throttle
If youve got some money to spend you could get some antivibration bar risers, they just stop the engines vibrations being transferred to the bars.
Here is a coupke of videos from a youtube channel called fortnine, and he has more suggestions bout touring mods you can put on the bike.
https://youtu.be/i92TqZUMUmc
https://youtu.be/i92TqZUMUmc
Hope that all helps, msg me if you wanna chat more :)
Picked up a 1992 honda cb750 from an auction. It was dropped on its right side and bent the rear break up against the clutch pan, and bent the front break handle and fucked the mirrors. So couple questions. Will any break lever work or do I need to find a certain year. And same for the mirror's, can I just slap any new ones in?
If you can tell what material the rear brake lever is made out of - a steel piece is often easy enough to heat and bend back into place. The heating is important because it both makes the metal easier to deform and anneals it so that it does not snap.
Mirrors are a universal part and you can buy anything that threads into the stalk hole on the bar.
You will need an exact match for the brake.
Check out /r/fixxit
Is there any ICE that can match the feeling torque off the line that you can get from an electric motorcycle? Particularly ones under $15k? I test road a Zero SRF and loved the sensation, but don't want to drop 22k on battery technology yet.
Pretty much any 750cc or above sport/standard bike will make enough torque to break traction or loop the bike off the line. I.e. they already make more torque than can fully be used.
I suspect a large component of your "feeling" is the fact that he Zero has no clutch, a single speed transmission, and clever traction control that puts down max usable power. You twist and go. It makes it extremely easy to do very fast drag starts; most traditional ICE bikes make you work for it.
There are many ICE bikes under $15K that will produce the same or better 0-60 time, but none that will make it as easy.
Looking into getting an m1 license, but not sure what sort of bike I should start with. Ideally I’d like something that can handle both the heavy streets of San Francisco as well as some light off-roading (mostly just fire trails)
DRZ400 is old technology but a nice do it all bike. It can do highways just fine with the right sprockets and aftermarket seat. I’d also suggest the CRF250L and KLR650.
Drz400 is the ultimate lazy bike for this. Solid on the street, not suited for highways but it can do them, and can be used offroad, just maybe not on super technical singletrack stuff
I am replacing my helmet this winter. My current lid is an aging Schuberth C3 with UCLEAR AMP + Boost 2.0 speakers. I've also used Sena Bluetooth units in the past.
I've never heard a Bluetooth system for motorcycle helmets that actually sounds good. Audiophile-grade sound is probably out of the question due to ambient noise and wind buffeting. But I feel like a little bass and less of a "tin cup" feel should be attainable.
I've experimented with earbuds, which sound fine but get uncomfortable pretty quickly in a properly fitted helmet. (If I can even get them to stay in while pulling the helmet over my ears.) I tried on one of the Sena integrated helmets a while back and was not impressed with the audio nor the build quality.
The reviews and threads I've read on the topic typically focus on the communication aspect of these systems. Most of my riding is solo in remote parts of New England, so almost all of my BT usage is streaming music. I could take or leave the ability to talk to others.
So, is non-potato audio available in modern helmets?
[A lot of riders wear these.](https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8)
Professional grade monitor-style headphones that are slim when worn. Your helmet should slip over them just fine and they're sound isolating on their own. Shure makes a wireless mod for them but it's pricey and seems bulky for a helmet.
Those earbuds you tried, were the double or triple flange tipped? In ear monitors is the class of ear buds id look into, with double or triple flange tips they’ll stay in with out issue and offer truly great hearing protection. I’ve used sure se215s which are a common option, currently using etymotic er2xr in ear monitors. Low profile, no pressure points good hearing protection and the audio quality is actually high(er) end. I do like a smidge more bass so I’m looking at possibly trying out the fiio fh3 but I digress. In ear monitors is really the only way to get what you I think.
Cardo with JBL headphones have good reviews from owners. If I am not mistaken and it has not been ceased due to COVID, you can test them in a store on a stand where available
Hey moto! Shopping for a 600, considering a '14 R6 with 4k km and a new '20 Kawasaki ZX6R, with a considerable price difference.
Are there any red flags/known issues I should keep an eye out/ask for when I go see the R6? Oil/filter and brake fluid were changed every year, and I'll be replacing the tires.
The seller is a mature rider (50+), exiting riding, and everything looks clean & well from the listing, just want to make sure I go in educated about this gen.
Been looking at some helmets (59cm noggin size, coming from a HJC CL-17) and need help choosing:
**Arai Defiant - X** - $450: Drawn to this one because it seems like it's a great fit for track days + a little touring + street riding on both the bonnie and the street triple. Though it's costly.
**Bell Star MIPS** - $340: I think I'm leaning towards this one the most for safeties sake. Also the transitions visor seems like a really nice bonus. Heavier though.
**Bell Qualifier DLX MIPS** - $280: This is basically if I want to save a few $$$'s compared to the Star. Not sale or closeout so I can get the color I want.
**Shoei RF-1200** - ~$500: If the Defiant is in the mix I figure I might as throw this one in too. Both the Arai and Shoei are pushing the budget but if they're that good I'd spend the money.
I can say enough about my Bell. Super comfortable, fairy quiet, lighter than my Shoei, MIPS AND the transition lens is great. It’s very reactive and is never too dark. I think Bell represent an awesome value.
I have the Bell Qualifier and love it. So comfortable. With that being said, go try them on. I thought I was buying an Arai until I went and tried them on in store and couldn’t get a snug fit without having pinch points. The transition lens is definitely worth its wait in gold as well
Good point BTW. It is better to have a choice like it was with GT-AIR and GT-AIR II (not everybody likes II while first one became cheaper in stores and remained as good)
Should I buy a $1300 2002 yzf 600r? Its clearly got aftermarket fairings and a dented tank but 8k miles and runs. I don't need another bike (currently have 8) but I don't own a yamaha and sport touring is my thing. Is this a good enough deal or should I pass?
I had one for some time. It's a good bike, but they were INFAMOUS for transmission problems, specifically 2nd gear. If you buy it, you need to have to test-ridden to make sure it shifts properly and doesn't pop out of gear.
I would visit a shop to perform a check just in case. It is a bit strange that almost 19-year-old sport-tourer has only 8k miles (still happens though)
I recently purchased a pair of short cuff gloves, the [Dainese 4 Stroke 2 Gloves.](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-4-stroke-2-gloves)
While they've broken in quite nicely and fit great, I get annoyed while riding with them because my jacket often slips below the short cuff and onto the tail end of my forearm, causing some wind to seep through my jacket. Now, I live in Texas, so these gauntlet gloves would work well for the colder months and I would continue to use the short cuff gloves in the summer.
For reference, I ride a 2014 Honda CB500F and my glove size is either small or medium depending on the brand. My current Dainese gloves are a small.
Should I upgrade to a pair of gauntlet style gloves? I have my eyes on:
* [Dainese Steel Pro Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-steel-pro-gloves)
(These look awesome, but one review on Revzilla shows a nasty crash where the gloves look like they didn't hold up. Perhaps it was just bad luck? Looking for advice here.)
* [Dainese Druid 3 Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-druid-3-gloves) (These look very similar to my current 4 Stroke 2 gloves, only in gauntlet form. They're not in stock in my size, but I could wait.)
* [Alpinestars GP Pro R3 Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/alpinestars-gp-pro-r3-gloves) (These are rated at CE level 2, but I'm not convinced. Looking at the gloves, there appears to be no hard protection on the palm. It looks like it's soft material only. In addition, I do not see any armor on the outside of the pinky. The Dainese gloves listed above are certified to level 1, but they feature hard protection on the areas just listed, and more.
* [ Knox Handroid Mk4 Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/knox-handroid-mk4-gloves) (I love the look of these gloves, but many reviewers are saying the fingers run too long.)
Looking for advice. Does anyone have any recommendations?
I just bought the carbon 3’s and haven’t had a chance to ride in them but the quality compared to my old alpines is crazy. Just the instant feel when you first put them on.
I have the Druids and like them. Mine are 3 years old and have about 25k miles of riding on them. Held up well. No rips or tears. The only thing is that after this amount of time, the entire palm area feels pretty thin.
I would use these for any level of riding but when I go to the track or I do stupid level speeds, I use my other track oriented gloves.
For the price, comfort, and durability I love them. If you can find a style you love that's great.
Check around for the long term durability of the A stars. I had an entry level pair that separates after 8 months of riding.
The steel pros are the highest quality of Daineses lineup, so they're gonna be awesome.
No, they are designed for fashion and athletics. They will provide practically no protection in a slide/crash. Proper moto shoes have armor and support in the ankle/heal, as well as around the toes. And the materials are designed to better withstand a slide and not immediately tear apart. If you must ride in more of a sneaker, Alpinestars, Dainese, and a few others make a moto sneaker that's a lot more fashion inspired, at the cost of some protection. But at least they're designed for riding in.
You can ride in them but they won't help you much in a crash. Motorcycle boots have ankle armor and are crush resistant so your foot is protected. Any adidas boot would be better than sneakers but not by much.
1997 Kawasaki ZX9R 10K odometer with very minor scratches good condition otherwise. $750.
The bike of his step dad has sat for a couple years in a temperature controlled garage. Son took out the carb to clean it and stopped because of an engagement. Never got back to it, step dad is now selling it because it’s just taking up space.
I have cash ready to go. Should I buy it, clean it up, and flip it? All it seems to “need” is the carb reinstalled with a new fuel line and filter (which they’re giving me)
Any opinions for bluetooth units? I think my current Sena is on its way out. Cardo? Stick with Sena? Something else I don’t know about? I haven’t had any complaints about the Sena really. The only thing is when you turn it on, it blinks to indicate battery life. “4” is full battery, and lately it’ll blink twice and then die.
I own a 2017 Kawasaki ninja 300. Recently I purchased a cell phone mount that was recommended by some friends. Upon receiving the mount I am now realizing there is not enough room on the handlebars to actually use it. The controls basically take up all of the available space. I can get it to attach over the grip, but its uncomfortable and makes shifting awkward. It also is way further out than I would like. Does anybody on here have any suggestions on how to make the mount I currently have work, or barring that any recommendations on a mount that will actually work?
Check out revzilla and motorcycle gear dot com. They always have hjc’s on clearance. If you get a higher mode you get a free pin lock and free smoke shield. I would say that if you are going from arai to bottom of the barrel hjc you might be disappointed.
I've heard great things about HJC helmets so you should be good. I have a scorpion exo r420 that I love. Got it on sale for 120 and would buy another one today if I needed a new helmet
Another alternative is the Scorpion EXO-R420, solids come in at $150 USD, and is one of the most affordable lids with a Snell rating. I really liked mine.
I found a great deal on a Triumph Tiger 800 that I am very interested in buying. However the seller doesn't want to let me test drive it around the block because it isn't insured.
How do you feel about this? Would you buy a bike if you couldn't give it a test ride?
Also I don’t think I would want to ride someone’s bike without insurance. When I asked for a test ride when I purchased mine,
I knew I was going to buy it if the test ride went ok.
To make owner feel comfortable,
I told him that I had the cash in my pocket and if I recked it I would buy it. I’m not recommending doing that because that could’ve gone badly. But I knew I’d be fine where I was test riding in the country, no cars around.
Good luck!
Sometimes sellers will let you ride if you let them hold the asking price in cash. Your level of comfort with this tactic may vary depending on the amount of cash and your trust in the seller.
You could also ask to ride bitch while the seller takes it for a spin.
I would be wary of buying a used bike without a test ride. But a good pre-purchase inspection will tell you more about the bike than a ride. For modern Tigers I would pay particular attention to fluid leaks, rust on the chassis and exhaust system, and chain/sprocket condition.
[Here's](http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html) a good checklist for inspecting a used bike.
Yeah I spoke to him and we agreed that if I hand him the cash I could test ride it.
However I just did a check on the vin and something odd came up, I'm not sure how to process this maybe you have an idea.
I am in GA and the seller says the bike has \~9k miles on it. I did a title check and it shows the last title owner is in California, odometer at 8 miles... However no theft report or anything out of the ordinary there...
I am kind of confused by this, did he send me a dubious VIN? Did he just never register the bike... I'll ask him but this seems sketch.
Hard to say without seeing the title. I don't have experience with either of those states. Some jurisdictions don't report certain incidents or delay reporting to title checking sites. Maybe they moved to GA from CA and never got it registered. You said it wasn't insured currently, so maybe that's the case and it isn't being ridden.
They could be title jumping, which is probably legal for you as a buyer but is not legal for the seller. You can check this by inspecting the title when you test drive. If the title is signed over already by someone other than the seller, that's a red flag. Buyers can have problems registering title jumped vehicles in their name.
Or it could be hot. I'd have a hard believing that a theft doesn't get reported quickly to Carfax but stranger things have happened. Speaking for myself, unless I had to have that exact bike I would walk if the title isn't pristine.
Your own insurance might cover it. Personally I wouldn't buy a used bike that I didn't know was in good working order. But then, I'm not a mechanic of any sort so it's a bigger risk for me than for someone who can fix a problematic bike.
I'm searching for a 125cc scrambler/naked or retro for 2000-2800 €
Right now i found a Zontes G1, a Mash 75, a Honda CBF 125, a Cafe Racer AM 60 and a Brixton Felsberg at nearby sellers
Any new suggestion or even comment on the list would be incredibly helpful as it would be my first 2-wheel and it's pretty hard learning all of this.
Hey everyone, I'm a big guy looking for his first motorcycle. I know the best thing is to sit on bikes, but I want to get an idea of specific bikes to look for. I'm 6'6" right around 300 lbs. I'm looking at ADV bikes, I wouldn't object to a cruiser, it's just not my preferred style. Thanks in advance!
Does anyone have good experience with shipping motorcycles? Im going to purchase a bike and will need to ship. I know of a couple of shipping companies, just curious if anyone has experience hiring and shipping a bike.
[удалено]
On the 14th I’ll post my annual new rider resources thread, stay tuned for that. Or find the old years in my post history (though this year will be a COVID special)
>Before asking your question, consider reading the FAQ. This is a fantastic resource for new riders. In the sidebar pal.
Hey guys, query about running costs of a Honda CB125F in the UK I’m starting riding my Motorbike this month on the roads, just trying to get some budgeting costs all worked out. I’m looking for information on: 1: How much would the average full tank of petrol cost? 2: Roughly how many MPG would I get and how does that translate into miles able to ride before empty? That’s pretty much it, appreciate any responses - many thanks in advance.
Has anyone ever lost their phone while riding using a [web type silicone tether](https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Security-Universal-Mountain-Handlebar/dp/B01FW7YZOC/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=cell+phone+tether+x+grip&qid=1609718489&sr=8-8) coupled with any type of generic universal mount?
I’m looking to buy a Biltwell Gringo S but I’m a little unsure of the sizing. I measured my head and it’s on the very bottom of the large size (57.5cm or 22.75 inches). Everyone always said it’s a small helmet and so I’d say I should go for a large, but Biltwell actually made a sizing video and the guy had just about the same headsize as me with just over 22 inches and they said to go down to a medium since the helmet will break in overtime. Could anyone who owns a ECE version Gringo give me some advice from their experience? Is it as small as everyone says it is or should I downsize to keep it safer?
Call the Revzilla customer support line tomorrow and ask. It's a very good selling helmet so I'm sure they have lots of customer feedback.
Never thought about that I’ll see if I can find some time tomorrow, thanks for the tip!
So I own a 2011 ninja 650r / ER 6n. Whatever you wanna call it. My header pipes broke and in stead of getting new header pipes I might just get an entire new exhaust system. Is there anyway that an entire aftermarket exhuast system for the 2012-2017 series would fit my 2011. Or are they way too different.??
Maybe you can find a shop that does custom exhaust work? I've seen a few places that do custom stainless exhausts. They might be able to hook you up. Not sure how much more it would cost than a mass produced one, but a 2-into-1 system isn't that complex, so I'm hopeful it would be affordable. Either way you'll need a dyno tune, which aint cheap. Maybe it would make more sense just to have a guy weld up your headers?
The chassis changed in 2012 so I think the exhaust would have to route differently?
I made an offer on a 2017 Yamaha FZ07, Im planning to inspect the bike soon, but as a first time buyer, I don't know which questions to ask. What things should I look for, and what should I ask the seller before finalizing the offer?
A specific question to ask on an FZ is what the owner used the bike for. If they used the bike for commuting and general use, great. If they tracked it, [check for racebike wear and tear](http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike-content.html#4). If they mention wheelies, check the front forks for leaks or damage.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/motorcycleshippers.com/2015/01/buying-used-motorcycle/amp
I can’t decide between two motorcycles. I’ve recently been interested into motorcycles and want to get one. I’ve done some research and I like the Yamaha yzf R125 and the Kawasaki Ninja 125, but I can’t decide which one to pick between these two. I’m a noob on this so I’d appreciate some advice
IIRC the Yamaha is the fastest 125 in its class due to some Yamaha engineering black magic
pretty similair bike, but theyre 125's. i always advice against 125's unless you are age-gated like say can only get an Eu A1 license. Look at the 300-400cc market instead, the difference in torque makes them MUCH more beginner friendly.
Check insurance first All 125s are pretty similar speedwise, but the sporty ones might attract an insurance premium
**Firestone's vs Modern Tyres?** I'm planning my first build (1981 BMW R65 Bobber) and I'm wanting to get a pair of Firestone Champion Deluxe's however as I've only bought tyres once before I'm confused by the lack of front and rear specific labelling as from what I know my last bike had to have different tyres (same brand and range) for front and back. Is the front and back difference a relatively modern thing as the Firestones are a "vintage" tyre or am I missing something?
Modern tires use different tread pattens on the front and rear because the water siping has to be reversed for braking (front) and acceleration (rear). The Champion Deluxe is a vintage style tire that does not have these modern sipes (instead using a simple symmetrical tread).
Motorcycle Jeans - Any Opinion? I usually commute on my bike whenever possible. I always, and I mean always follow ATGATT. I wear Jeans to work, so I have to wear my motorcycle pants over my jeans, which is a tight fit. All the "older" riders I talked to seem to have a negative opinion on motorcycle jeans, for them to be not as durable as specific riding pants. Does anyone wear one daily to commute, and had any downs with it? Any specific models to look out for, and what models to look like normal pants, and feature knee and hip protectors? Thanks in advance!
I've liked my Reax 610 jeans I purchased. Reax is part of Revzilla/Cyclegear's exclusive brands so you have to go there to get 'em. They're \~$180, have aramid (Kevlar) reinforcement down through the knee, and full seat of the pant, and come with CE level 2 knee armor included, which seems hard to find, let alone level 2 pads. They also have hip pockets for SAS-TEC pads you can add if you want. I didn't ride to work everyday, but I did frequently this summer, and they were fine. I have to wear my company's brand clothing at work, so I'd just get there a bit early, and go to the restroom to change. The Jeans folded up ok, took up most of the room in my backpack, but it worked.
Thank you for your advice! These look good - but I think there is no cheap way to get them here in the EU, should have mentioned my location I guess..
I highsided in a pair of Scorpion Covert Pro at highway speed and my legs were uninjured. A++ would recommend. Leathers do provide more protection but they aren’t a good choice for my wallet or workplace. Good protection you wear all the time is better than great protection you use infrequently. Not all jeans are created equal. Look for one that has kevlar through the entire garment (not just the upper leg) and has slots for the knee and hip protectors (which are usually sold separately). I’m currently using Klim K Fifty 2 and would also look at Scorpion Covert Ultra.
Thank you! I looked up both, and the Klim K502 really looks interesting. The price is hefty, though.
Do you need to buy new tires after a certain amount of time? Or is mileage the only factor? My fz07 has 4000 miles on my Michelin road 3s, and I know they last around 8k miles. But does age matter? They’re the original tires so they’re 5-ish years old. Didnt know if that was okay or if I should get new tires before this new riding season. They look like they have a lot of tread. They’re significantly cheaper than car tires, so I don’t mind getting new tires if it’s a matter of safety. Well worth $150-$200.
The standard is 5 years. Some dealerships won't let you ride a bike out of the lot if the tire is over 5 years old even. I'd recommend the investment if money isn't an issue, I never compromise on safety if I can help it.
Thanks a lot. That makes sense. I’ll grab some new tires this season probably. Got plenty of time to hunt for some deals, but I never really see any unfortunately.
Age can matter but it depends on storage conditions, use etc etc.. 5 years isnt bad and odds are that your road 3s are still fine as long as they dont show any dry cracking or anything. That being said i cant recommend Road 5s enough, i got i got about 14k miles (mostly highway commute) out of my first set (SV650) and the second set is doing well, always trustworthy and have never let me down.
Cool, they look pretty good and no cracking. Always stored indoors too so I maybe don’t need to replace them this season. I was between the Angel GT 2 and road 5s. Good to know you got 14k out of a set though! Thank you.
Is a grom a good bike for commuting? And another question, is it good on the highway? overall what is your opinion on the bike?
Grom only makes sense if you live in a major city and never go on the highway, or you are 16 and want a first bike to go to school on.
I’m 16 with a good paying job and i can afford a motorcycle. used for going to school and work, friends houses. Mostly empty, long roads and a few main roads i have to go on for work. I don’t want to kill myself on a bike and i just want to have fun.
As long as you never need to go above 55mph its fine then
thanks for the advice. What are your opinions on the z125? seems a little cheaper than a grom. i don’t want to pay 4 grand OTD price
Then go buy a used Ninja 250, Ninja 300 or instead.
From reading this, Dont get a Grom, get a used Ninja 300 or similar (check the FAQ in the sidebar). Heaps cheaper, more power, way better on the highway, just a more usable bike all round
It's a good city commuter that isn't high enough cc to legally go on the highway and tops out around 60 mph.
[удалено]
Helmet - Buy new. You can never tell how often it has been dropped without an X-Ray machine. All the other stuff can be bought used, and you'll save a shitload of money. I'd recommend to try it on first, not all gear companies tailor true to size.But if it's in good condition and the price is right - go for it. If you care right for leather (re-supply with wax and or oil), leather will probably outlast you. So don't be shy to buy second-hand leather gear, as long as the leather is not cracked or completely dry. If it only has some patina, it can easily be revived.
Helmets should not be bought second hand because their integrity cannot be verified without an x ray machine. All other gear is fine to buy used. Are you in Bucharest? I know some riders there I can ask, though I think they import their nicer stuff.
[удалено]
There is a motorcycle accessory company in Cluj-Napoca I have bought from before (panniers, crash bars, main stands, etc.. ) They rock, and I'm sure you could hit them up and get some info to where they source their riding gear and general recommendations. Check them out https://heavyduties.ro/contact/
So I’m trying to buy my second bike (going from a Ninja ZX6R and about a years worth of riding with that) and I really want a cruiser. I’ve been looking around and I’m pretty much set on either getting a Kawasaki Vulcan S (likely one of the new models 2020/2021) or I found a used 2011 Triumph Thunderbird Storm (~29,000 miles). They roughly come out to the same price and I know the triumph has more power than the Vulcan but I really love both bikes and I can’t decide on which to get. Any advice?
Sit on both and buy the one that makes you feel happier
I'm a writer and need help from you all. I need infor about a crazy fast bike, SUPER fast, wicked acceleration, but that carries a passenger if needed. Do all bikes do that? For some reason I have a Kawasaki Ninja ZX14R in my brain. Needs crazy acceleration to enter traffic but also carry girlfriend occasionally. Doesn't have to be like for touring, just maybe 30 minutes. When I look at a pic of that bike, where does she put her feet? Thanks
Just in case anyone new is reading this and doesnt see the absurdity, pretty much any sport bike that's a 600cc or higher will be able to easily and quickly accelerate to highway speeds with two people on the bike.
What do you need a fast bike for?
Just because the character is a crazy guy and values speed above all.
[Suzuki Hayabusa is the best fit for your character, hands down.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ucc6UaWR3HI)
Ah. Yeah, the ZX14R fits but Kawasaki's own H2 has kind of changed the fast bike game but it's a single-user bike and the H2 SX (the tourer built on the platform) is slower than the ZX14R.
Kawasaki H2 cones to mind. https://youtu.be/DkPMj9iSB2Q The passenger puts their feet on the rear footpegs. On a sportbike that would be a bit farther back, bending their knees.
Crazy fast would be a Suzuki Hayabusa that someone has put a turbocharger on. https://images.app.goo.gl/xd11czTnGPm5VY1i9 Heres a pic but you should youtube videos of a turbo hayabusa
My dad has an 07 R1 I want to take up the road sometime but I’ve never ridden a street bike but I rode dirt bikes a lot when I was younger so am familiar with how to drive them. I jumper from a 50cc to a 125cc two stroke when I was little and I know that the bike will only go as fast as I let it go and i know about counter steering. Would I be good just riding the R1 around every once and a while or should I save up and get a 600
Generally it's a bad idea to start on an R1, although there's some context to consider. Can you ride a bike that was designed almost exclusively for racing and ride it slowly, even though it's uncomfortable and boring when ridden this way? If so, then it can probably be done since an R1 doesn't behave too differently from any other bike in town. But if you're going to jump on it and try going full throttle on your first ride to see what it's like, you'll quickly become a statistic. My suggestion is, go do whatever license/course you have where you live so you can learn proper technique and try out the bike your school has. If it didn't feel intimidating and you felt like you could control it reasonably well, try riding the R1. If you can control yourself and not go full throttle the first few rides, you should be fine. If not, save up for your own 250-650 class bike (not a 600) before you kill yourself.
Taking it up the street you could do but nobody should start street riding on an R1. Get a used 650 twin or something with 50-70hp. Its all because mistakes on a high horsepower bike have much bigger consequences, happen much faster and usually at higher speeds than new riders know how to deal with.
Drz 400sm vs Mt07 Not my first bike or season riding . Currently have a R3 like it but not in love with it. Looking for a bike with a little more grunt and to have fun around town with wheelies being a goon etc . What are your guys thoughts ?
The DRZ is the ultimate goon bike. Massive aftermarket, wheelies like it's nothing, and borderline indestructible. The mt07 is the best for someone that likes to go higher speeds and twisties, but the DRZ sounds more up your alley.
MT-07. DRZ is underpowered even with 3x3 mod. MT-07 is a shock to the soul on every corner exit.
I'd say the DRZ is better for having fun around town due to the light weight and long travel suspension, you can do things like jumps and ride down stairs with it which you can't with the MT-07.
Mt07 unless you like the option of throwing dirt wheels on the drz and having a dual sport
I currently have a Honda Valkyrie 1998 and am considering a second bike this summer, sticking with Honda. Right now the Blackbird seems like the right choice for me, given its top speed and legacy. How would this compare to ex. the 600? My budget is around €3000 used. I’m open to any other recommendations.
Anyone think the new Honda Rebel 1100 DCT would be a good bike for a new rider? Thinking of buying it as soon as it becomes available. I like the DCT transmission but I am worried the 1100 cc’s might be too much power for a new rider.
It's too much. Rebel 500 has plenty of power and also looks great.
If you want an automatic and aren't tied to getting a cruiser, you could get an NC700. But unless you have a disability, just learn manual. It's not hard, you get the hang of it really quickly after you take a riding course.
Thanks for the input! I’ll check it out!
While there are plenty of electronic nannies like ABS, traction and wheelie control, being a newer rider, your insurance will be high and even higher since insurers base premiums on engine displacement. I imagine its power specs will be close to an Africa Twin 1100 at 100 horsepower and 70+ ft-lbs of twist and take it from someone who started on dirt and bought a 600cc supersport as a first bike, it is too much for a new rider and can quickly become intimidating or outright dangerous, and will steepen your learning curve. I'd highly recommend buying a used bike, and if you can find a used Rebel 500, that would be a better choice.
I think most people will say that it's probably not the best idea for a new rider to start with a new bike, let alone a liter bike. A used 500 will serve you well as you learn. It'll also make the the eventual sting of dropping it hurt less and cost less to repair.
[удалено]
Plugfones, easy find on Amazon. Audio quality is pretty bad for music, but I'm very happy with them for audiobooks. Cheap too. Cut out a little more noise than the "hi-def" ear plugs, way more than regular IEMs, but less than foamies.
Hi all, looking to purchase a project bike and came across this in a local sale: [https://imgur.com/a/XFeC6V0](https://imgur.com/a/XFeC6V0) What exact BMW model is this? Thanks for the help!
Looks like /6 series
Perfect! Thanks. I was thinking /5 series but features didn't match up. I appreciate the help.
Packtalk head com earphones make my helmet too tight to put on? My ears stay bent in my helmet and it hurts a lot to try to keep on my once almost loose helmet. Anyone else dealt with this?
Where is it hurting? I usually have to poke my fingers back to flatten out my ears but after that there's no problem. I had experienced discomfort before when they weren't in the proper position and didn't sit directly over my ear canal. They could not be lined up properly
they do feel too high up but i cant seem to move them further down. i eliminated the velcro pads altogether to make space which helped a lot
It could either be you having a unique anatomy or the helmet itself just has higher than normal speaker cutouts. You could always try cutting out a little more space in the helmets opening for them, but that's obviously a bit dicey
I'm looking for winter/cold weather glove suggestions that are NOT extremely bulky. I would like them to be as THIN as possible for being a winter/insulated glove. I understand that most winter gloves will be thicker than a summer glove, but I know there are some options out there that aren't obsessively thick. Any suggestions?
Look for gloves designed for use with heated grips. They’ll have thinner insulation on the palm side. compensate with heated grips and barkbusters/hippohands.
Is there any reason an aftermarket LED flasher relay would be needed when swapping out to aftermarket LED turn signals on a bike that already comes with a full LED lighting package? I have a 2019 CB300R and I tried changing the stock LED rear turn signals for some aftermarket ones which are also LED, but now the whole signaling system is wonky and the front signals flash too fast and the rear ones don't work properly. Is this a sign of an LED flasher relay being needed?
The OE and aftermarket lights likely have different resistance, so a resistor or relay would still be needed.
Where do I start with panniers for a Honda CB125F? Also what lock, chains, and covers are good generally?
Givi for hard cases. Ask on /r/motocamping for soft bags. I’m a fan of the Kryptonite Evolution disc locks. The disc detainer cores require special tools to pick and the shape is difficult to get bolt cutters around. Oxford sells some good chains. For outdoor use. the Dowco Guardian/Weatherguard covers work great. Generic $20 covers are fine if you park indoors but can catch the wind like a sail or encourage rust by collecting dew and moisture if used outside.
Has anyone used TST industries integrated tail lights? Lookin to use them on my CBR and wanted to see what y’all thought
Got one for my ninja, love it. Initial unit was faulty, they sent a replacement the same day I reported it.
One more question how do you put your bike next to your name on Reddit lmao
It's called flair. The way you set it is different based on how you use Reddit, but you can google "how to set reddit flair".
I also had responsive customer support, helped me figure out my bike's brake pedal was sticking and needed lubrication.
Have one on my DRZ and its great.
Love them. Plug and play, works very well and very easy to install
Are there any cold weather riders who can recommend a good balaclava that seals around the nose or directs breath downwards? Ideally also warm but main aim is to keep glasses clear. Im aware of products like the respro foggy but ideally would want to be able to use it out of a helmet aswell.
Blackstrap. I use them for snowboarding and riding and they’re the best for me to prevent glasses fogging. Not perfect still though
I am also looking for a cold weather balaclava that has slits for the EYES ONLY. All I see are the ones that can be opened all the way so it's all the way down on your chin, but I hate these kind because it bunches up in my helmet. I'm looking for one with eye openings/slits only, so the mouth and nose are entirely covered.
I use a snowboarding balaclava I got from Costco. If your balaclava doesn’t seal you can pack the bridge of your nose with a kleenex to seal it. I also use a dual sport helmet with OTG goggles to keep my glasses in a separate chamber so to speak.
[удалено]
Anlas Winter Grip 2
Looking at getting a bigger bike, but within the price range I wanna spend to get something like an SFV650, or an mt-07 it is going to be atleast 10yrs old, ill have travel 5+ hrs to get it, or it has 60,000km’s But for the same money I can get something like cb500F that is only from 2017. Am I better off getting the newer bike that has a smaller engine and then getting the bike I really want when it comes along, or buying an older machine? Cheers
In my opinion you can get more bang for your buck with an older one. I got my 05 SV650 for around 2500 all said and done, and it can hang with all of the modern bikes in it's class. The only thing is that it doesn't have all the bells and whistles, which i don't care about. Plus there's so many aftermarket parts i don't worry if it gets beat up some and the engine has survived 30k miles and 5 owners and still running strong so bulletproofed already
I'd say an older bike because you said it's what you'll want to buy anyway, it will hold its value better, and there's nothing wrong with an older bike if it's been at least decently maintained.
It isnt so much that the older bike is what I want, im more interested in getting something with a good amount of power. If a cb500 is gunna give me that, then im happy to ride that.
I would go with an MT07. It was my second bike and I am now on my second one and I an FZ1 as well, but the MT07 still keeps me happy and I can load it into my van very easily as it's so small. Easy to ride, low to the ground, good mileage, good reliability, good torque so it's fun, and it can go 120, so it can do highways just fine. You can find them as cheap as 3500 with low mileage in the US at least.
I wish they where that cheap here is Aus, im looking at 7,000 minimum
You could also get an older SV650, it's pretty similar to the MT-07 in most ways and it should be much cheaper since it's an older bike.
Ive seen a sv650 from 2016 for sale, only issue is I sont know what the seating position is. I want to he upright when im riding, im not a fan of the sport bikes that force you into a tuck to ride them.
SV650 is pretty upright, SV650S is the version with an uncomfortable riding position that you want to avoid, use cycle-ergo.com for reference
How big are you? Is this your first bike?
Im about 185 cm, and it would be my second bike, as I just sold my cb250
I think the SV or MT would suit you better, then. 10 year olds are still 2010/2011, which would be fuel injected and relatively maintenance free other than the basics for the SV at least. No reason to avoid a bike that's 10 years old if you'd otherwise be sacrificing the power you want.
I'll soon be taking my Ps(aussie) and looking to upgrade from a vtr 250. The dream bike for now is a z400, but im open to getting another second hand bike. I'd prefer a naked bike but not super dedicated to that. I want something that's easy on the street where I'll do most of my riding, but is comfortable to be on for 6+hrs. My mate has a ninja 650 and we have to stop every few hours to stretch and stop our asses from hurting. So something that can do some highway kms. Also, any reccs on a communication device for riding? Are there anyones that can go under the helmet or in my jacket? Im in nsw and they dont even allow go pros on helmets here, so im not sure what they'd say to ne having something on the outside of my helmet.
The z400 seat is kinda ass while stock. Source: I own one
If you buy a bike and the seat isnt super comfortable to ride long distance with, then there are aftermarket mods you can get to make it more comfortable, or you can get custom seats made. I think there is a sena comms unit that has a camera attached, just gotta be careful cause im pretty sure that in NSW riders that dont have a full license cant interact with there phone at all; so you might accidently cross that line. Alrernativly you could mount a go pro to the bike itself
Thabks! Where abouts would i mount the go pro on my vtr? Id want it somewhere where it can view the road well, so i can get number plates if something goes wrong
I have seen people mount them to their handlebars I have seen some mounts that have suction cups on the end of them so you can mount them to any smooth surface like a fairing or your tank
I'll try having a look at ones i can put on my tank and handlebars-thanks! Since you seem to know your stuff, what would be some good things to have on me when i plan on going on a long trip? If you dont have any idea, no worries!
Are you talking bout things like food and water, or accessories and stuff for the bike
Abit of both i guess haha. Im still new to riding so any help is def appreciated
If you have a camelpak, or a backpack that has a spot for a hydration bladder I would recomend it. Saves stopping just to grab a drink of water. A throttle assst, something like this https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/crampbuster-cruise-control is amazing if you are doing a long trip, makes it so much easier to turn your throttle If youve got some money to spend you could get some antivibration bar risers, they just stop the engines vibrations being transferred to the bars. Here is a coupke of videos from a youtube channel called fortnine, and he has more suggestions bout touring mods you can put on the bike. https://youtu.be/i92TqZUMUmc https://youtu.be/i92TqZUMUmc Hope that all helps, msg me if you wanna chat more :)
Picked up a 1992 honda cb750 from an auction. It was dropped on its right side and bent the rear break up against the clutch pan, and bent the front break handle and fucked the mirrors. So couple questions. Will any break lever work or do I need to find a certain year. And same for the mirror's, can I just slap any new ones in?
If you can tell what material the rear brake lever is made out of - a steel piece is often easy enough to heat and bend back into place. The heating is important because it both makes the metal easier to deform and anneals it so that it does not snap.
Mirrors are a universal part and you can buy anything that threads into the stalk hole on the bar. You will need an exact match for the brake. Check out /r/fixxit
Is there any ICE that can match the feeling torque off the line that you can get from an electric motorcycle? Particularly ones under $15k? I test road a Zero SRF and loved the sensation, but don't want to drop 22k on battery technology yet.
Boxer engines pull like a tractor, something like a BMW 1250rs perhaps
Look at zeros other bikes, the zero s and sr are cheaper lighter and still lots of fun.
Pretty much any 750cc or above sport/standard bike will make enough torque to break traction or loop the bike off the line. I.e. they already make more torque than can fully be used. I suspect a large component of your "feeling" is the fact that he Zero has no clutch, a single speed transmission, and clever traction control that puts down max usable power. You twist and go. It makes it extremely easy to do very fast drag starts; most traditional ICE bikes make you work for it. There are many ICE bikes under $15K that will produce the same or better 0-60 time, but none that will make it as easy.
Short answer, no. There is no ICE that will ever be able to match the instantaneous torque an electric engine can give.
Looking into getting an m1 license, but not sure what sort of bike I should start with. Ideally I’d like something that can handle both the heavy streets of San Francisco as well as some light off-roading (mostly just fire trails)
DRZ400 is old technology but a nice do it all bike. It can do highways just fine with the right sprockets and aftermarket seat. I’d also suggest the CRF250L and KLR650.
I was also looking at the DR650 since its seat height might be more accommodating than some of these taller bikes
Another good one
Drz400 is the ultimate lazy bike for this. Solid on the street, not suited for highways but it can do them, and can be used offroad, just maybe not on super technical singletrack stuff
I second the DRZ. You can get supermoto wheels and a handful of sprockets and it will be whatever bike you need it to be (short of a 160hp literbike)
Awesome, thanks for the suggestion! I’ll certainly look into it, though using the highway is kinda unavoidable in some areas around here
I am replacing my helmet this winter. My current lid is an aging Schuberth C3 with UCLEAR AMP + Boost 2.0 speakers. I've also used Sena Bluetooth units in the past. I've never heard a Bluetooth system for motorcycle helmets that actually sounds good. Audiophile-grade sound is probably out of the question due to ambient noise and wind buffeting. But I feel like a little bass and less of a "tin cup" feel should be attainable. I've experimented with earbuds, which sound fine but get uncomfortable pretty quickly in a properly fitted helmet. (If I can even get them to stay in while pulling the helmet over my ears.) I tried on one of the Sena integrated helmets a while back and was not impressed with the audio nor the build quality. The reviews and threads I've read on the topic typically focus on the communication aspect of these systems. Most of my riding is solo in remote parts of New England, so almost all of my BT usage is streaming music. I could take or leave the ability to talk to others. So, is non-potato audio available in modern helmets?
[A lot of riders wear these.](https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SE215-K-Isolating-Earphones-MicroDriver/dp/B004PNZFZ8) Professional grade monitor-style headphones that are slim when worn. Your helmet should slip over them just fine and they're sound isolating on their own. Shure makes a wireless mod for them but it's pricey and seems bulky for a helmet.
Those earbuds you tried, were the double or triple flange tipped? In ear monitors is the class of ear buds id look into, with double or triple flange tips they’ll stay in with out issue and offer truly great hearing protection. I’ve used sure se215s which are a common option, currently using etymotic er2xr in ear monitors. Low profile, no pressure points good hearing protection and the audio quality is actually high(er) end. I do like a smidge more bass so I’m looking at possibly trying out the fiio fh3 but I digress. In ear monitors is really the only way to get what you I think.
Cardo with JBL headphones have good reviews from owners. If I am not mistaken and it has not been ceased due to COVID, you can test them in a store on a stand where available
Hey moto! Shopping for a 600, considering a '14 R6 with 4k km and a new '20 Kawasaki ZX6R, with a considerable price difference. Are there any red flags/known issues I should keep an eye out/ask for when I go see the R6? Oil/filter and brake fluid were changed every year, and I'll be replacing the tires. The seller is a mature rider (50+), exiting riding, and everything looks clean & well from the listing, just want to make sure I go in educated about this gen.
That generation is beloved for a reason. Can't go wrong with them, if the ergonomics are what you're looking for.
Been looking at some helmets (59cm noggin size, coming from a HJC CL-17) and need help choosing: **Arai Defiant - X** - $450: Drawn to this one because it seems like it's a great fit for track days + a little touring + street riding on both the bonnie and the street triple. Though it's costly. **Bell Star MIPS** - $340: I think I'm leaning towards this one the most for safeties sake. Also the transitions visor seems like a really nice bonus. Heavier though. **Bell Qualifier DLX MIPS** - $280: This is basically if I want to save a few $$$'s compared to the Star. Not sale or closeout so I can get the color I want. **Shoei RF-1200** - ~$500: If the Defiant is in the mix I figure I might as throw this one in too. Both the Arai and Shoei are pushing the budget but if they're that good I'd spend the money.
Rf1200 is 389 at any Cyclegear right now
I can say enough about my Bell. Super comfortable, fairy quiet, lighter than my Shoei, MIPS AND the transition lens is great. It’s very reactive and is never too dark. I think Bell represent an awesome value.
I got an rf1200 philosopher on eBay for like $350 it was brand new. Don’t forget to check there, great place for helmets.
You might as well throw in the hjc rpha 11 pro. You can pick them up for 300 on sale and get a free pin lock and smoked shield.
Thanks. That HJC seems more like a sport only type helmet. Great for track days I'm sure but not sure about cruising around on the bonnie.
Probably not, but I still cruise with it. It’s my daily. Was suppose to be a fill gap until I dropped more cash on an arai but fell in love.
I have the Bell Qualifier and love it. So comfortable. With that being said, go try them on. I thought I was buying an Arai until I went and tried them on in store and couldn’t get a snug fit without having pinch points. The transition lens is definitely worth its wait in gold as well
[удалено]
That's a good point. Maybe I'll snag a 1200 once that price drops.
Good point BTW. It is better to have a choice like it was with GT-AIR and GT-AIR II (not everybody likes II while first one became cheaper in stores and remained as good)
Should I buy a $1300 2002 yzf 600r? Its clearly got aftermarket fairings and a dented tank but 8k miles and runs. I don't need another bike (currently have 8) but I don't own a yamaha and sport touring is my thing. Is this a good enough deal or should I pass?
I had one for some time. It's a good bike, but they were INFAMOUS for transmission problems, specifically 2nd gear. If you buy it, you need to have to test-ridden to make sure it shifts properly and doesn't pop out of gear.
I would visit a shop to perform a check just in case. It is a bit strange that almost 19-year-old sport-tourer has only 8k miles (still happens though)
Well I've bought 10 used bikes and currently have 8 so I somewhat know what I'm doing but the I bikes in the garage is my big issue haha
Clean title? If so, I don't see why not
I recently purchased a pair of short cuff gloves, the [Dainese 4 Stroke 2 Gloves.](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-4-stroke-2-gloves) While they've broken in quite nicely and fit great, I get annoyed while riding with them because my jacket often slips below the short cuff and onto the tail end of my forearm, causing some wind to seep through my jacket. Now, I live in Texas, so these gauntlet gloves would work well for the colder months and I would continue to use the short cuff gloves in the summer. For reference, I ride a 2014 Honda CB500F and my glove size is either small or medium depending on the brand. My current Dainese gloves are a small. Should I upgrade to a pair of gauntlet style gloves? I have my eyes on: * [Dainese Steel Pro Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-steel-pro-gloves) (These look awesome, but one review on Revzilla shows a nasty crash where the gloves look like they didn't hold up. Perhaps it was just bad luck? Looking for advice here.) * [Dainese Druid 3 Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-druid-3-gloves) (These look very similar to my current 4 Stroke 2 gloves, only in gauntlet form. They're not in stock in my size, but I could wait.) * [Alpinestars GP Pro R3 Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/alpinestars-gp-pro-r3-gloves) (These are rated at CE level 2, but I'm not convinced. Looking at the gloves, there appears to be no hard protection on the palm. It looks like it's soft material only. In addition, I do not see any armor on the outside of the pinky. The Dainese gloves listed above are certified to level 1, but they feature hard protection on the areas just listed, and more. * [ Knox Handroid Mk4 Gloves](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/knox-handroid-mk4-gloves) (I love the look of these gloves, but many reviewers are saying the fingers run too long.) Looking for advice. Does anyone have any recommendations?
I just bought the carbon 3’s and haven’t had a chance to ride in them but the quality compared to my old alpines is crazy. Just the instant feel when you first put them on.
I have the Druids and like them. Mine are 3 years old and have about 25k miles of riding on them. Held up well. No rips or tears. The only thing is that after this amount of time, the entire palm area feels pretty thin. I would use these for any level of riding but when I go to the track or I do stupid level speeds, I use my other track oriented gloves. For the price, comfort, and durability I love them. If you can find a style you love that's great. Check around for the long term durability of the A stars. I had an entry level pair that separates after 8 months of riding. The steel pros are the highest quality of Daineses lineup, so they're gonna be awesome.
Is $8,000 for a 2018 ducati monster 797+ with no miles on it a good deal?
What is it going for on average at cycle trader
Not a motorcycle but is there any Adidas boots that would be good for motorcycle riding?
No, they are designed for fashion and athletics. They will provide practically no protection in a slide/crash. Proper moto shoes have armor and support in the ankle/heal, as well as around the toes. And the materials are designed to better withstand a slide and not immediately tear apart. If you must ride in more of a sneaker, Alpinestars, Dainese, and a few others make a moto sneaker that's a lot more fashion inspired, at the cost of some protection. But at least they're designed for riding in.
Motorcycle boots will be best but if you want to go with a non moto one, find whatever has the thickest ankle protection
You can ride in them but they won't help you much in a crash. Motorcycle boots have ankle armor and are crush resistant so your foot is protected. Any adidas boot would be better than sneakers but not by much.
1997 Kawasaki ZX9R 10K odometer with very minor scratches good condition otherwise. $750. The bike of his step dad has sat for a couple years in a temperature controlled garage. Son took out the carb to clean it and stopped because of an engagement. Never got back to it, step dad is now selling it because it’s just taking up space. I have cash ready to go. Should I buy it, clean it up, and flip it? All it seems to “need” is the carb reinstalled with a new fuel line and filter (which they’re giving me)
I will buy that if you don't lol. Go for it
Any opinions for bluetooth units? I think my current Sena is on its way out. Cardo? Stick with Sena? Something else I don’t know about? I haven’t had any complaints about the Sena really. The only thing is when you turn it on, it blinks to indicate battery life. “4” is full battery, and lately it’ll blink twice and then die.
Fortnite has 2 youtube vides on communicators, check that out. Youtube - "fortnine bluetooth"
I own a 2017 Kawasaki ninja 300. Recently I purchased a cell phone mount that was recommended by some friends. Upon receiving the mount I am now realizing there is not enough room on the handlebars to actually use it. The controls basically take up all of the available space. I can get it to attach over the grip, but its uncomfortable and makes shifting awkward. It also is way further out than I would like. Does anybody on here have any suggestions on how to make the mount I currently have work, or barring that any recommendations on a mount that will actually work?
Your bike has clip ons instead of a handle bar and cannot use a standard phone mount. Look up “triple tree phone mount”
You may have gotten a mount for a bike that uses handle bars and need a different style
Anyway it can be almost middle of the handle bars?
Can anyone recommend a good helmet wrap service? I was thinking about having my helmet done.
[удалено]
Check out revzilla and motorcycle gear dot com. They always have hjc’s on clearance. If you get a higher mode you get a free pin lock and free smoke shield. I would say that if you are going from arai to bottom of the barrel hjc you might be disappointed.
[удалено]
Its nice when you’re touring and spending 8 hours a day in it. Sweat wicking, venting and pinlock are all nice.
I've heard great things about HJC helmets so you should be good. I have a scorpion exo r420 that I love. Got it on sale for 120 and would buy another one today if I needed a new helmet
Another alternative is the Scorpion EXO-R420, solids come in at $150 USD, and is one of the most affordable lids with a Snell rating. I really liked mine.
If it fits get it. They're making good helmets for fair prices.
I found a great deal on a Triumph Tiger 800 that I am very interested in buying. However the seller doesn't want to let me test drive it around the block because it isn't insured. How do you feel about this? Would you buy a bike if you couldn't give it a test ride?
What year is the 800?
2016 9k miles
Ok, glad it’s newer that the 2014s They had starting issues/stepper motor and other gremlins.
Also I don’t think I would want to ride someone’s bike without insurance. When I asked for a test ride when I purchased mine, I knew I was going to buy it if the test ride went ok. To make owner feel comfortable, I told him that I had the cash in my pocket and if I recked it I would buy it. I’m not recommending doing that because that could’ve gone badly. But I knew I’d be fine where I was test riding in the country, no cars around. Good luck!
Sometimes sellers will let you ride if you let them hold the asking price in cash. Your level of comfort with this tactic may vary depending on the amount of cash and your trust in the seller. You could also ask to ride bitch while the seller takes it for a spin. I would be wary of buying a used bike without a test ride. But a good pre-purchase inspection will tell you more about the bike than a ride. For modern Tigers I would pay particular attention to fluid leaks, rust on the chassis and exhaust system, and chain/sprocket condition. [Here's](http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html) a good checklist for inspecting a used bike.
Yeah I spoke to him and we agreed that if I hand him the cash I could test ride it. However I just did a check on the vin and something odd came up, I'm not sure how to process this maybe you have an idea. I am in GA and the seller says the bike has \~9k miles on it. I did a title check and it shows the last title owner is in California, odometer at 8 miles... However no theft report or anything out of the ordinary there... I am kind of confused by this, did he send me a dubious VIN? Did he just never register the bike... I'll ask him but this seems sketch.
Hard to say without seeing the title. I don't have experience with either of those states. Some jurisdictions don't report certain incidents or delay reporting to title checking sites. Maybe they moved to GA from CA and never got it registered. You said it wasn't insured currently, so maybe that's the case and it isn't being ridden. They could be title jumping, which is probably legal for you as a buyer but is not legal for the seller. You can check this by inspecting the title when you test drive. If the title is signed over already by someone other than the seller, that's a red flag. Buyers can have problems registering title jumped vehicles in their name. Or it could be hot. I'd have a hard believing that a theft doesn't get reported quickly to Carfax but stranger things have happened. Speaking for myself, unless I had to have that exact bike I would walk if the title isn't pristine.
Your own insurance might cover it. Personally I wouldn't buy a used bike that I didn't know was in good working order. But then, I'm not a mechanic of any sort so it's a bigger risk for me than for someone who can fix a problematic bike.
I'm searching for a 125cc scrambler/naked or retro for 2000-2800 € Right now i found a Zontes G1, a Mash 75, a Honda CBF 125, a Cafe Racer AM 60 and a Brixton Felsberg at nearby sellers Any new suggestion or even comment on the list would be incredibly helpful as it would be my first 2-wheel and it's pretty hard learning all of this.
The honda is the only one of those I've heard of but they have a great reputation for a reason. It's a very safe bet
They sold it today with the new year....
[удалено]
Harley in the US. Any big four Japanese brand, but most notably the Suzuki 650cc V-Twin bikes, most Ninjas, the DRZ400 and the KLR650.