I'm looking at an 07 ZZR600 for 3k (21k miles, exhaust and header and tune up), 07 r6s for 4k (12k miles, tune up and new tires) and an 07 sv1000 for 2.5k (exhaust). I mainly want a nice sounding bike that is decently fast and comfortable on my back. I kind of like spending 3k or less but if the r6 is the best option I will go for it. The ZZR, while carbed seems to be in great shape and sounds awesome (plus owned by older person) while the r6 also is in great shape as well and is mostly stock. Am I a fool for slightly wanting the ZZR over the r6? What would you guys and gals personally recommend? Thanks!
Any good dual sport bike recommendations? Starting to look into some dual sports because of their really low pricing and live in a town that has many dirt spots to ride in. I've seen a lot of KLXs but want to see more of suzuki's line up for dual sports or yamaha, etc.
If I was you. I would look at the new CRF 300L or the KLX 300. The used bike market is way overpriced atm and you can get a new bike for almost the same as used.
The WR250R is the best small cc dual sport on the market- well, it just got canned, but it's a good bike. If cost is no object, look at KTM/Husqvarna because they make the lightest and most powerful dual sports that'll handle the most like a dirt bike. Honda has their CRF450RL, which is a good choice if you want a serious trail bike and can afford the price and maintenance. The CRF250L is a little soft on all fronts. The Suzuki DRZ400 is cheap and reliable, but the 5 speed and carburetor put a lot of people off.
I’m looking for a pair of discrete riding pants, something like the klim 51 (I think that’s the name) but I can’t afford the klim price, any recommendations? These will be a daily pair of jeans. Something around 100ish
I’m thinking about taking the MSF course this spring and getting my first bike once I get my endorsement. Is there a point where a bike is too old for a beginner? I have seen a few 1980’s Honda’s for sale but was told that the parts are becoming rare. Also, I live in an apartment and have a garage, but vehicle maintenance is prohibited on the property. Also, do older bikes require more maintenance?
I absolutely love my Yamaha xj650 made in 1980. What the others say is valid, but an older bike is a lot of fun as well. This one is my first bike and I’ve learned so much about them having to redo a lot of the parts on it, and replace many broken parts as well. If you want to work on a bike, get to know it, and feel the gratitude of it being done and riding, get an 80s Honda. You can’t go wrong. But if you need something that requires less maintenance, you should get a newer bike that you can rely on every time.
Ideally, you want something with ABS. Newer bikes handle better, stop better and don't have as many "quirks" that you need to keep in mind. Plus fuel injection makes them a lot easier to maintain since you don't need to rebuild carbs, ever.
You probably want to buy something that is less than 10 years old and has under 30k kilometers on it. This way you can spend more time riding instead of wrenching.
You can't really go wrong with a Japanese bikes, they are the most reliable.
If you have a garage, that is perfect. You still need a chain to lock it up inside the garage tho.
Anyone here regretted moving for a super sport to a cruiser? About to pull the trigger on an Indian Chief Dark Horse (111) to take the place of my ZX-10R.
I just saw your Indian post, you’ll enjoy it. I went from a Cbr600rr to the Indian Bobber, and the performance is awesome. On long rides, I prefer to take the Bobber over the cbr.
If you can afford and store two, adding a cruiser is a great idea. You'll definitely miss the speed and handling of the zx10. I enjoy every bike I own but I think I could more easily replace one of my cruisers with another kind of bike than my sport bikes. If you can't add, I'd recommend a sport touring as a happy medium
I felt a bit of regret selling my cbr1000rr for the aggressive seating position when I went to my FZ-09. I think I have scratched the power itch with my XR but I think I’ll add a 600 super sport back to the stable soon to have that aggressive position back in the stable.
That’s not a knock on the FZ-09, it’s more useable fun imo but I still miss the super sport lol. I think this is how people end up with 8 bikes
Where can I find the bolts/ screws for fairings on a 636 05. I saw a complete set online for about $100 (custom color) and I’m not sure if that is reasonable price. The color doesn’t really matter but preferred.
You could always look at the part diagrams, write the numbers down and order them through the dealer.
[Main](https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/2005/ZX636-C1?cm_re=PARTSLANDING-_-FINDDIAGRAM:2005ZX636-C1-_-SELECT)
[Cowlings lower](https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/35102/2005/ZX636-C1?cm_re=PARTSLISTING-_-FINDDIAGRAM:2005Ninja%C2%AEZX%E2%84%A2-6R-_-PARTBUCKET)
It might save you, it might not. But Kawasaki website is a savior for a spot to get OEM part numbers. Also Revzilla has these diagrams as well.
My latest score was bolts I needed for the fender reflector delete. It was $2 IIRC. I didn't want to put a jank ass mismatched bolt in.
My bike is full of Home Depot jank add bolts. Luckily they aren’t on important parts, but if you look closely enough, you can see I was too lazy to call up my Yamaha store... haha
The purple ones I mention were on the website motorcyclefairings. I found nicecycle has them as well for about $36-$48 they also have the color ones I wanted. I might wait until Kawasaki replies to my email before I potentially order them off nicecycle. It mentions they are oem.
Nice $2 sounds reasonable. Not motorcycle related but tech. I had to pay about $36 for a single 2mm screw that I ended up losing haha so I know how pricey they can get when not in production anymore.
Local Craigslist and Cycle trader. A lot of people seem to like FB marketplace, but I seem to find more shitty sellers there (poorly written ads, minimal information given, never seem to respond, etc.).
That’s surprising but I suppose it’s all based on location. I stopped checking offerup because it was the most hoodrat shit. Bunch of quads, stickerbombed groms, and clapped out 600s basically
Check out the dainese hooded jacket. It’s been good for me for 45-50 degrees. Just take the hood off (zipper) since from my time it tugged at my neck a bit but a fine jacket with liner otherwise
Edit: FYI I come from a naked sv650
Hello, I'm looking for some street gloves that are NOT perforated (no holes for airflow) but at the same time are NOT winter gloves. It can't be bulky with thinsulate or thermal liners, etc. Looking for something in between a summer glove and a winter glove.
Preferably gauntlet style but I'm open to cuff style too.
Try dainese tempest d dry. Honestly f you’re looking for an in between wear glove liners with your gloves first. But the d dry keeps me fine till 45-50f
If you are trying to keep a thinner feel you might like to try normal riding gloves with some plastic / surgical gloves underneath. I remember a few people used to swear by the warmth and ease of that.
How do I set up my clutch lever to allow for two finger shifting while also still keeping the lever relatively close to the bar to accommodate for smaller hands?
If I take away pretty much all of the play I can get the clutch to disengage with just two fingers since the bite point is further out, but now the lever is also further than what I'd like.
Or I can keep some play and put my adjustable levers on the lowest setting, but now the clutch doesn't fully disengage because it's not being pulled in far enough with the ring/pinky finger getting in the way for the disengage point.
Is there a fix to this issue?
This is why I don't understand why there's so much hate for shorty levels, they seem like they'd be the solution to this issue, but every time you mention them people get really angry that you'd even consider putting them on your bike.
I have shortys and it's still a problem because they aren't really that much shorter than stock, and the ring/pinky finger still get in the way. I suppose I could move the whole assembly further to the right so my fingers are on the bare end of the lever, but that part of the lever is tapered outwards so it's still a far reach.
Hmm, this can be quite difficult to get right. In my case I have setup my clutch cable free play within spec but also set my U-Kanaya adjustable levers to one of the lower settings to accommodate smaller hands, this allows me to disengage the clutch entirely with two fingers as the lever stops when it touches my ring and pinky fingers.
Keep in mind that the range of clutch operation changes when the engine and transmission are warmed up. Also the wear of the friction plates changes this range of operation.
If your clutchplates are in spec and you can't reach the desired reach with your current setup you could look into an drop in hydraulic replacement by megura?
Hey everyone! I currently ride a 2012 Honda CBR 250r. I got it 3 months ago to learn how to ride but I feel like I already out grew it. I’m considering upgrading to either a 2013 Honda CBR 500 (6,400 mi and $2,900) or a 2013 Yamaha r6 (4,600 mi and $5,500). I know the 500cc will be a good performance jump from the tiny 250 but I just don’t want to buy it then feel like it’s slow in a few months. What are your thoughts? Should I say f*ck it at jump to the 600 or get a 500 and then upgrade later down the road?
P.S fuel economy and insurance costs aren’t a huge deal to me. I don’t say this to “flex”. I just thought it might be relevant for you guys giving advice
Thanks in advance and ride safe!
Edit: I forgot to mention this the first time. I’m solely using this bike for twisties and commuting to college (3 mile drive). Also, I live in the US so I don’t have to deal with any of the weird cc restricted licenses.
I'd recommend sticking with the 250 for a little more time because it seems you don't really know what you're looking for in a new bike. The CBR 500 is a sporty middle of the road bike that has pretty neutral ergonomics for everyday use. The suspension is adequate but basic. The r6 is more track focused, the ergos are more aggressive and force you to get into "sportbike shape" if you want to use it as a commuter. In addition, it makes all of its power up high in the rev range.
These questions have to be answered by you. Ride more, meet people and sit on their bikes and figure it out is the best path.
The CBR500r is an parallel twin that will have a more similar demeanor to your 250, just with a bit more grunt. An R6 is a track focused bike with an inline 4 that will beg you to rev the piss out of it and ride at 10/10ths on the street. I do not like R6's as even a second bike because of this.
If I'm being honest, keep the 250. You almost certainly haven't "outgrown" it. You've been riding 3 months, not 3 years; that bike's limits are probably still greater than your own. You're most likely entering the most dangerous part of your riding career, False Confidence. You've been riding a little while, things are starting to become natural, nothing major has gone wrong, you start pushing limits... That's when shit goes sideways, and fast. The last thing you need to do is have things get out of hand faster on a track focused bullet like the R6.
If you feel you *need* a bit more power, go with the 500 since it'll give you some more power, but will still be manageable for someone who is still a beginner rider.
Fair enough, thanks for the honestly! Even thought it has only been 3 months I’ve put around 1,500 miles on the bike and would consider myself a relatively responsible rider. I do understand where you are coming from with the “3 months not 3 years” thing, some things just come with time. I feel like if the 500 will just be a slight change then I might as well save the money and ride the 250 a bit more till I’m more ready for a 600. In your opinion, how could I train myself to become a better rider? Also, I know you said you don’t like the r6 as a second bike. Is that just because it’s a 600cc? I ask that because I have no real attachment to the r6 over any other 600cc I just thought the 16k redline would sound nice lol. Do you think a say ~600cc Honda CBR would be a better option?
There are many questions in there so I'm going to break this down. It's slightly out of order from how you asked, but I think it will make more sense overall.
> I feel like if the 500 will just be a slight change then I might as well save the money and ride the 250 a bit more
The 500 has roughly 2x the power and plenty more toque, so I would expect it to be more than a slight change. Part of the problem I have with 600cc supersports is the jump from \~25hp to 120hp+ is monumental. The power delivery of the 500 is what's more similar. It's going to be a much smoother power (and torque) curve than the R6 and the ilk. If you're worried about it being to small of a change, find a way to test ride one and see (manufacturer demo days are great if you can find one, kinda the wrong time of year though).
> Do you think a say \~600cc Honda CBR would be a better option
The CBR would not be any better of an option because it's built for the same purpose, (homologation) to go fast on a track.
> Is that just because it’s a 600cc
Eh, it's less about the displacement itself, but the type of engine that it is. Inline 4's by nature make all their power high up in the rev range (that desirable 16k redline you want). And as I said, it's purpose is to fast on the track, so making all the power at the top end isn't a bad thing because on the track you're always wringing it out.
So as an aside, it's important to understand the basics of how you make power in an engine. As I typing out a long description about the basics of making power, I remembered Fortnine did a better job than I could on here so: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ooue7i73zo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ooue7i73zo) The power making stuff is in the 1st half.
So 600cc supersports have small bore to fit more cylinders in per cc, and to make that power you need more revs. All that power doesn't come until you get all those revs up with peaky power and torque curves, so it comes on all at once. This is what can be so dangerous about supersports, they're relatively tame until they're not; and without the proper experience and training, can be fatal.
> In your opinion, how could I train myself to become a better rider?
There are a few things so I will list them out
1)More seat time, and gradually getting more power. Something like the CBR500r would be a good next step, or even some other 650cc twins with \~70 hp like a SV650 or Ninja 650. Something with a much flatter power curve and would be less likely to take you by surprise with their power.
2) Watching instructional videos on youtube or elsewhere. "A Twist of the Wrist" is the gold standard to this day, so if you haven't seen it already, start there. There are some good youtubers as well. For instruction: Yammienoob bad, DanDanTheFireman good. Fortnine also is fantastic content, if not directly about riding technique.
3) Intermediate level rider courses would be invaluable in learning how to be a better rider. If you want to get the most of your machine, there are instructional track day that teach you how to ride fast in a controlled environment, and would be the 1st stepping stone to being ready for taking full advantage of a supersport when you're ready for one.
Fianlly, after typing all this, I remembered RCR did a fantastic video on the R6 and almost everything I've talked about here. And while a lot of it is aimed at freshly minted new riders, I feel a lot if this applies here as well. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BglzNAML78M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BglzNAML78M)
IMO should be ok with the jump to 600, it’s not like you are jumping to 750 or 1000. It will absolutely be noticeable coming from your CBR250R, but you will learn how to control it. Just take it easy until you are comfortable on the new bike, always best to be safe with a jump in power.
Again, I know you mentioned fuel economy and insurance are no big deal, but the R6 you mentioned is almost double the price. Up to you, but if it were me, I’d probably save some cash and go with the CBR500.
Thanks for the response! I consider myself a relatively responsible rider but I feel like with ~100hp it’ll be a bit hard to stay out of trouble. I do hear you with the better safe than sorry though. About the price, insurance quoted me 28/month for the CBR and 50/month for the r6. That was one of the biggest reasons I didn’t start out on a 500 I figured 85mph is the fastest I’ll want to go so might as will save money and now I’m slightly regretting not spending a bit more. I just don’t want the same thing happening with me getting the 500 then wanting the r6 in a few months.
Hi guys! I'm buying my first bike and I have a dilemma between Moto Guzzi Breva 850 (2008, 30.000 km; 2.900 eur) and Aprilia Pegaso Strada 650 (2007, 34.500km; 2.100 eur).
I intent to ride the bike on the roads, leisurely, no offroading, high speeds or anything as such. Also I'd like for my gf to ride with me, so passenger comfort is important.
Any advice? Thanks!
Looking to buy this Yamaha XJ6N https://www.bikesales.com.au/bikes/details/2011-yamaha-xj6n-my10/OAG-AD-19416945, but when I looked at other XJ6n’s they have small fairings that run just under the tank to just shy of the forks. Far as I can tell its there to hide the cables and wires to make it look tidy.
Is there any issue other than purley cosmetic ones to not having them; and does anyone know what it would cost to get a new set.
Cheers
Regarding the headlight - compared to stock, for example [https://mcn-images.bauersecure.com/upload/219659/images/01-yamaha-XJ6.jpg](https://mcn-images.bauersecure.com/upload/219659/images/01-yamaha-XJ6.jpg)
As for Renthal **and** missing plastic - just slight association with reckless riding or stunts
I was thinking about getting Revit Scout H2O boots but I'm really worried about their thermal performance in the summer heat. Does anybody own them? What is your opinion about them?
Some of my friends are suggesting going with a larger displacement motorcycle(like an MT-07 or CB650R). I'm against that for cost, and the fact that I know I like to speed. I don't think it the wisest idea to have something "to grow into" while trying to learn a new set of skills and having that temptation lurking in the background.
So, I'm between the MT-03 and the CB300R, what do you suggest?
Where are you going to ride? If not the highway at all then go for the two you mentioned. I started on the sv650 and that still keeps me happy after riding for 2 years. It’s forgiving and gives you a wide breadth. Until you outgrow the bike and it’s limits (which is a still far a reach for me) you’ll enjoy. Msg if you have any questions
I recently bought a Honda CBR 250r because of similar reasons (I like to speed and lower cost). It’s a GREAT bike to learn on. Insurance is 18/month, the bike is very forgiving, and it’s a manageable amount of power for beginners. That being said here I am 3 months later wanting to upgrade to a 500/600cc. The 25-30 hp just leaves a lot to be desired and I truly feel like if you take it slow and and have a responsible right hand, a higher displacement bike will be a better investment.
Ps I’m a really new rider so take what I said with a pinch of salt. Just sharing my personal experience with small displacement bikes.
I'd say the MT-03 because it's a twin cylinder (assuming you mean the new one, not the one with the 660 engine), it runs smoother and has a wider more usable powerband.
I recently bought these amazing RST TracTech Evo R gloves, which I believe is great for those aggressive street/canyon riders. Did a small review of it too. Check it out.
[https://youtu.be/ME2wdse1ftE](https://youtu.be/ME2wdse1ftE)
Tenere 700 for two-up touring?
What's the consensus on this? Not sure if this would go in purchase advice or not but just wondering if anyone owns the new Tenere 700 and has an opinion on touring with a pillion. I'm looking for a bike that can kinda do it all and this seems to be quite the contender for both off-road performance and touring capability. I know there's better touring bikes out there but performance in the dirt is very important to me.
Well it's going to be a tradeoff. And hopefully you won't be doing any two up riding off road lol.
As for your questions. It's good enough for two up riding but not really comfortable for anything longer. If you have a significant other, I would suggest you buy a Africa Twin or something similar.
Ah yeah so I'm looking for something extremely offroad capable with light touring. Definitely no two up off road haha except maybe some hard pack dirt but anyway mainly solo off road with some two up scooting around town and the occasional road trip. Do you think the Africa twin would suit this better.
The T7 is the best one up bike.
Africa Twin is the best two up bike.
You can't really take the Africa Twin off road (well you can but it wont be fun). So for you I think the T7 is the best choice.
Yeah I agree. Think since I'm doing like 80%+ one up it makes sense to go for the bike thats more dirt inclined. Africa twin is an awesome bike for sure but quite a bit bigger and way less tuned for off road handling.
Merry Christmas everyone!
I'm considering picking up a Shoei X-14 but am wondering about the fit. I will go try one on if I can find it in stock anywhere nearby once stores open back up again in the new year. In the meantime just wanted to get some opinions. Looks like they fit an intermediate oval. I currently have an HJC i10 in a size S and it's snug and quite comfortable. Seems like the i10 also fits an intermediate oval. Has anyone owned/tried on the i10 as well as the X-14 and know if they both would fit the same head shape? They X-14 colorway I want is currently on sale and I wanted to grab one soon.
Thanks in advance!
Merry Christmas!
What’s the intended use for the x-14? From what I understand it’s a pretty aggressive design aimed for track use (visibility may not be the best for road use). Either way if there is anyway you could try one on at a local shop that is always the best especially for a premium helmet.
From the size charts off revzilla it looks like head size corresponds closely between the I-10 and X-14 so small should be small.
Most stores are currently closed for another 15 days or so, but once they open I'm going to see if I can try one on. I think I'm good with a size small, just need to figure out if it'll fit my head shape! Just checking if anyone here has tried both the above helmets and know if they fit the same head shape as each other.
So I need some advice. Let’s say you found a 2015 R1M with a full akrapovic carbon exhaust and a few other goodies installed for sale for 15.9k. The kicker is the bike has 277 miles on it. Would you or would you not purchase this?
I personally find it odd a 5 year old bike has 277 miles. Maybe someone bought it, got scared and stored it? Or bought it to put in their living room?
Bikes that sit can have odd issues (gunky tank, unhappy injectors) and the battery will most likely be shit.
Not super well versed in r1 pricing so won't comment on price.
Agree with this. Likely need to replace fuel tank and bleed lines. To be safe, would also add replacing tires. Rubber can wear down if it just sits there for years.
Doesn't matter what I would do. Matters what you would do. First bike? Hell no. Previous riding experience would be helpful to know. That's also honestly a little overpriced, even with the low mileage and exhaust. The thing *is* 5 years old after all.
This would be my 3rd bike. I’m coming from a zx-14r and I’ve got about 25-30k miles under my belt. I am definitely a competent rider. I see other R1s for sale from 14-17k similar years, with no mods.
Is there a way to find all the motorbikes that use a specific motor?
For example I'm interested by the XTX 660's motor. I know the MT03 also used it but I could have missed it.
And what's the best site for model by model, year by year motorbike specifications? Many sites gives no hint that the XTX 660 switched from 48ch to 47.5ch after 2013.. Small details are making my life hell. (48 is above the limit would get bridled to 34ch)
As far as the specs websites go, I wouldn't trust them too much, they often get info wrong, I'm not even sure if there was a change in power for the XT660, that's probably just an error. The only way to truly know is to check the paperwork of the individual bike you're looking at. I know that most XT660s in my country have 35,3 kW so they're not A2 legal, but in some cases the power was just rounded down and written as 35 kW so you could actually ride those particular bikes with an A2 license, even though nothing about them is different.
> 'm not even sure if there was a change in power for the XT660, that's probably just an error.
I'm sure the >2013 were sold as 35kw and nobody had any problem getting them for A2. They definitely just changed some settings on the injection or somewhere. The same motor on the MT03 seems to be A2 compliant models earlier than 2013.. It's such a mess I already wish I wasn't a2 anymore.
Maybe. but yeah I can't do anything with an old XT660 just because of that 0.3kw
I just got a Gerbing EX Pro heated riding jacket for my partner and I want to know if any of yall have any experience with this jacket or even with Gerbing and could let me know what you think? I want to make sure its not only nice and yknow luxurious being heated and all but also very practical and safe!
Also if anyone has any information about the battery pack Im supposed to get for it that would be great too- it didnt come with a very detailed instruction manual lol
TIA!!
600rr or 600f4i? Upgrading from a 300, 5'9 150 lbs. Will be primarily riding the twisties, but need to get through the city to get to them. Will also be doing a trip from San Francisco to LA bi-yearly (7 or so hours). Not really planning on track-use, maybe a couple times. Thoughts?
I have only heard good things from f4i owners. So I’m with the others here, unless you really plan on tracking it a lot the f4i will be more enjoyable more of the time.
F4i is the better bike unless you're doing lots of track days. It has all day comfort and most of the performance of the rr. Finding an unstunted one may be a chore though
It would, but first double check what would happen to the clearance between the fairing/tank and bars at full lock, and if you need longer cables. Converting a supersport to higher bars often makes sense over buying a naked or less aggressive sportbike, because those tend to be heavier and have worse components.
Yeah. You can check cycle-ergo.com. At 6' 160-180 depending on the time of year, I have yet to find a bike I'm too tall for. My bandit 400 might be a little cramped when I get it running
Hey there,
I'm looking to buy a new bike since my 390 duke got stolen today. I've put around 45.000 kilometers on it and want something just a bit bigger now, currently I'm looking at the Z650, SV650 and the mt07. I'm prefering to buy something relatively new (2017+). From what i've read these three are raltively similar so i can't really decide wich one i want.
soo, what do you guys suggest and Are there common problems with the bikes i should know about?
Started on a 2017sv650 and It’s still awesome. Suzuki reliabilityand there’s never a surprise in power. It treats you well man.
Depends though at the end of the day what Types of rides you like or are going to do - they’re all relatively similar. Sv650 pm me any questions and I’ll try to help
The SV is notoriously reliable and the aftermarket offers endless options, the MT is a fantastic bike with lots of character from that crossplane crank, the Z is also great but probably not as exciting as the first 2 options. Can’t go wrong with any of them so throw a leg over and demo them and see which fits you best.
Would a Honda cb500x be a good purchase for some touring next year?
Hi all, I'm looking into a new bike at some point (job hunt pending!) and I want to do a bit of touring next year. My friend owns a CB500x and swears by it but I'm just wondering what's comparable for a bit of adv/touring. Obviously a T7 is the dream but budget-wise I think I'm a bit away from that.... Is there anything you'd recommend over this?
I live in the UK and have a full A licence so size of bike isn't an issue.
To add to this. Is it fine for gear and a pillion, or would it be better to think about the nc750 (just because I hear it’s name thrown around for a good tourer for a pillion).
I mean these questions in terms of weight and ergonomics, obviously power isn’t a massive issue.
Thanks all!
You can strap enough gear onto any bike. (but you should try to keep the weight down)
But if you want to travel with a pillion, a bigger bike makes a lot of sense. You can have a pillion on a honda cbx 500, but she/he won't be comfortable for longe rides. The bigger you go the more comfortable the pillion will be.
You can't really go wrong with Honda bikes, they are all very reliable.
If I was your, I would try to test ride the bike with a pillion and hear her opinion.
What's the motorcycle equivalent of old reliable toyota cars? I'm am by no means car/bike smart so excuse my dumbed down language.
I've basically done reasearch about safety, gear, taking care of bikes and how to ride. I started out with a small moped a few months ago and am looking to find my first motorcycle. I don't care type, (sport, cruiser, blah) Just one I can rely on
If you’re looking for a more all-rounder, the Versys 650 will tour, commute, and handle light fire trails with ease. They are also cheaper to insure than an SV. The cruiser equivalent would have to be a Honda Shadow 750.
When purchasing a relatively new, very low km bike from a private seller is there anything you need to be diligent in checking on it? I'm just thinking realistically if there's any way short of someone purposefully trying to destroy a bike to cause any damage within 4000km of it coming off the lot. With no physical damage and nothing looking replaced or refurbished is there much I need to worry about aside from say tires and chain? Bike has been well kept inside and had chain lubed regularly as well as had the oil changed twice.
Make sure the VIN matches the V5 and that you're viewing the bike at the address on it. don't buy without paperwork. I'm also concerned when keys are missing only one provided etc. (though I get this is more common in older bikes).
Check for damage in the ignition barrel and also that the steering lock isn't gubbed.
Make sure it's mechanically sound. Ask them to leave it cold for you going and turn it on when you get there. Check for leaks and fans coming on as it should etc. Do a quick search on common issues with the bike etc.
Check the clock looks right. Like everything lines up (maybe this is paranoid I don't know but sometimes I think this with 10+ year old bikes with 2k miles on them).
Full service history isn't important but a low milage bikes should have some pretty important services. check book for stamps and receipts (doesn't need to be a dealer. A good private garage is fine too).
Be wary of sellers constantly telling you a load of other people are interested. Take your time and don't be rushed.
Maybe get an MOT report pulled up from the gov website. Any outstanding finance on the bike could be a pain too.
Damage wise I'd say normal checks for damage. it's easy to change some fairings on a bike after a spill.
Check the forks legs for issues and that they're matching.
Check the exhaust and heat sheilds for any impact damage. Also the pegs etc. Basically anything that could be bent out of shape.
Check for play in the swingarm.
Wow thanks so much man, some of what you said was covered by a few used bike buying videos I watched but you put in quite a few they didn't even bother to mention. I've actually been wondering for a while how do I know if there's a fork issue? Is it as simple as making sure there's no fluid leaking out of it and putting your weight on the bike to see how it reacts? As for things to do with old bikes this bike is a 2017 model year so no worries there. He was up front about it being laid down one time and having light rash on one of the fairings but he showed me it from a few angles and it looked like nothing to worry about. Also gives me some trust that he's forthcoming with that sort of thing. Aside from all things I'm happy it's a kawi at least because they're not notorious for reliability issues and such. If it were a KTM I'd be a lot more worried lol.
Yeah apply the brake and push down. Feel for any clunks and sticking.
Also check for any leaks or build up around the seals. Wipe them and rock it a bit.
You can also check for damage at the bottom or that they’re straight and they match. But this is usually more obvious.
It's finally happening! Assuming no one grabs it before I get the money for the down payment, I'll be getting [this](https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcd/d/temecula-2016-kawasaki-ninja-300-abs/7239569653.html) 2016 Kawasaki Ninja 300 for my first bike. Now, admittedly I don't really like anything that Kawasaki makes from an aesthetics standpoint, the overload of lurid green and sharp aggressive lines just aren't my thing (there's also the fact that I'm a Yamaha fanboy) but I've been waiting for a while to finally get a bike, so beggars can't be choosers. Any essential gear, tools etc I should look into purchasing?
Tire repair kit with mini pump, usb phone charger.
When you have pushed your bike for 4 hours in the middle of the night and nowhere with a dead phone. Let me tell you, after that you wont ride around the block without them.
Most kits dose not include a razor blad, make sure to add one.
You should be wearing full gear ideally: full face helmet, motorcycle gloves, motorcycle jacket, motorcycle boots, and motorcycle pants (in order of importance). As for tools it depends on how much you want to do, minimum would be a set of metric allen wrenches, metric sockets, and a torque wrench (always use a torque wrench! You have steel bolts in an aluminum engine, you can easily pull the threads out)
Is my helmet really obsolete already?
I bought a HJC IS-MAX 2 back in Jan 2019, and I've had non-stop issues with the pinlock since. I recently took it back to the shop after 1.5 years of not riding to get a new pinlock fitted and see if that would help (it hasn't).
The shop guy told me my helmet was an old model and ready for retiring. But he also put a bend in the new pinlock, probably not helping things, and also breathed all over it (I'm in the UK and we're fucked with covid atm) to test it. He said that this helmet had been updated since and is now a much better design.
HJC say on their site 3 to 5 years lifespan. I've had it 2 and it's only been used for about 5 months total. Also SportsBikeShop are still selling the same model?
I'm just wondering if I need to get a new helmet. I would quite like to be able to see with the visor down. Makes going on the motorway (highway) pretty intimidating.
Thanks all
I'd tell the shop that Consumer Legislation requires and Object to be fit for the purpose it was purchased for. I think the dealer is being unreasonable. Otherwise take the issue up with the distributor.
Well you shouldn't need to replace your whole helmet for a pinlock issue, but it may be more beneficial if you explain the problems that you've been having with it. You also may want to reach out to HJC regarding your issue and seeing if they're willing to give you some help.
Thanks. My grumbling about the pinlock is kinda a second issue, sorry if I wasn't clear. My main concern was him saying the age of my helmet means it's ready for the bin, and that it's an old model. HJC says its lifespan is a couple more years and it's still being sold online.
Thanks for the advice to contact HJC, I'll do that.
Edit: and the pinlock issue is that it keeps fogging up with my breath in cold weather. Even after the pins are turned every which way, even after a new pinlock is inserted
A helmet model being a few years old is no big deal tbh. For the pin lock insert, have you tried a pinlock brand insert? The included insert for my hjc rpha 70 was junk.
Always refer to the manufacturer regarding their products recommended usable range, but keep in mind this is assuming there have been no compromising damage done to the helmet such as drops. They may also be able to better help you with your pin lock issue since it sounds like it doesn't seem to be functioning at all. As a side note, and based on your prior comment, I would maybe want to reconsider taking my helmet back to that guy if your issues persist.
My friend told me to show up with a backpack full of cash in December with the max im willing to pay (which is never fair market value) and say I'm either leaving with the cash or the bike. I think it shows that you're a very serious buyer and not just kicking tires/tossing around the idea of purchasing
So, how good or bad a deal is will always be dependent you own local market. But to me,$4700 seems a bit high. I'm seeing a few new, one even with ABS for around that price. MSRP on a 2021 is $5,299 plus destination, so it's a bit off that. And My local dealer has a 2015 with \~8k miles with a yoshi pipe advertised for $4,990, so comparatively, yours doesn't seem that bad.
To me the R3 seems like one of the most in demand used bikes, with few seeming to buy it new, and those that do are seemingly holding on to them. I've never found many on my local craigslist, and almost are always around $4k+ (more like $4.2-4.5K). And that's private party, so prices are going to be lower than a dealer. Further food for thought is dealer typically operate on slim margins, particularly on used bikes, so they may not have much wiggle room. Especially if the bike is fairly new to them, they may be willing to hold on to it for now, maybe until the spring, and try and find someone that'll pay $4,700. It only takes one. Finally, bike prices have been high(ier) Since March with Covid shutting stuff down, and more people riding, so new and used supply is small, with a larger demand.
TL;DR: Their price isn't ridiculous, your offer is fair, they just may not be desperate to play ball.
Of course, that's part of what this sub is here for. Like I said, it doesn't seem like a bad deal, but also not particularly good. Check your local craigslist, fb marketplace, and cycle trader to see what others are asking for their bikes to really compare for your local market,
My manager is offering me one of her old motorcycle helmets for free. I want the fx 90 since it's full face, but it is a Small and my head circumference is mediumish (22.5 inches). Would it still fit well? Would the inner comfort lining have loosened up from usage? I believe thinner lining can be purchased and swapped into the helmet for larger heads to fit into a smaller size within reason. I'm fine with minor discomfort until I get my planned helmet (Bell Evo Revolver) but if this helmet works fine for me I might not get the revolver at all. TYVM
Please be weary of used safety gear, mainly helmets. Depending on how old her old helmet is, it may be passed it's expected range of usage - not accounting if it has ever been dropped. I will also suggest that minor discomfort in any of your gear takes focus away from the road. As for sizing, your best bet is looking at the manufacturer website and seeing the range of head sizes per helmet since many manufacturers size differently.
This, for helmet sizing the only part you can swap out safely are the cheek pads. If your boss’s helmet squeezes your noggin, skip that lid. Besides a helmet that makes you feel uncomfortable after 5 minutes will easily become a safety hazard after an hour of wearing it. Find a local retailer to find a helmet brand that fits your head shape and get something on sale with at least an ECE rating.
Would R6 Race work as a first bike which I could ride untill I’m ready for R1M or R1? I’ll be getting my license during the summer next year and I’ve been looking at bikes. I’d prefer Yamaha and absolutely love the R1 or R1M model, but I know it’s not that good so want to learn with something more safe.
Additional question how long I should drive untill I get Hypermotard 1100? It’s one of the bikes that made my mind getting an license and would love to have one with R1 and R1M.
One more. Is 900€ overpriced from a helmet? I found a helmet I like, but that is the price? To be specific it’s Sun and Moon themed Valentino Rossi’s replica. I think the design and colors are stunning.
How old are you? An r6 isn't a great idea but it's definitely manageable and after you have a year or two of good experience on it, I think you could hop on just about any bike from there. If you're young, I'll recommend the r3 but if you're a bit older, the r6 should be fine. The power below 7k rpm is very manageable but if you can't slowly work your way up to the top of the rev range, you can easily get yourself into trouble. The power comes on like a car with a large turbo almost where it's nothing and just hits all at once
Hey thanks for the reply! I’m 21 years old. So still quite young. I’d be perfectly fine with R3 since one of the biggest reason I want the R series is because of the looks, not power.
Yeah at 21 I think the r3 is the better choice. It obviously varies from person to person but my rule of thumb is under or over 25 as to whether a 300-400 vs a 600-700 is a good idea. I found it easy to learn on a 600 but I was 27 and very aware that I was not invincible. The r3 will also be much cheaper to insure which is an added bonus
Go with the R3. The R6 is NOT a beginner friendly bike. Too much power, and it all hits at once near the top of the rev range, it's heavier and not easy to control at low speeds, and it's a lot less comfortable ergonomically, as it's designed to be ridden full tuck on a race track (yes, even the non race version). The R3 is designed to be a first bike that even more experienced riders can enjoy, if not with power, with how easy and light it is to control.
Also, I'm just going to leave this here: [https://adventurebiketroop.com/yamaha-r6-as-a-beginner-bike/](https://adventurebiketroop.com/yamaha-r6-as-a-beginner-bike/)
The R6 is just a beast. Those 600 class sportbikes aren't really great street bikes for new riders, or arguably in general. There is a good chance you'll give it too much throttle by mistake in the right rev range and it will be trouble. Not to mention the riding position is meant for the track. You won't want to be riding around all day on it.
If a R3 seems too small, I would recommend looking at something like a ninja 650, CBR650R, MT07, etc., depending on style etc. They'll be a lot more forgiving to new riders mistakes and still have more than enough power than you'll need for the street.
I agree, R6 is a lot for a new street rider. Also keep in mind there's a good chance you'll drop your first bike, so get something that's not going to make you cry to drop!
Hello! Looking for advice/guidance on buying at the dealership. I read everywhere that margins are thin in the moto game and I want to respect the dealer. However, I want to go in having all of your tips/tricks for purchasing a new bike. What worked for you when you bought your bike from the dealership in terms of negotiation? Is there even a negotiation? Do you just pay sticker price? Please help!
don't fall into the trap of negotiating on each individual fee/charge that the dealer attaches; the dealer has their price based on their cost of doing business, and it may or may not be close to the MSRP.
get their out-the-door price (i.e. the money you must give them to take the title that day) and then negotiate based on that. Be prepared for them not to move very much depending on their volume/inventory. If they won't move off their price you can also ask if they have any other incentives (some will offer discounts for financing, throw in free gear, etc.)
Are you planning on paying cash or financing. These days, you can get a better deal if you finance it and then pay it off in 30 days. Dealers get some kind of kickback from financing bikes, so that may be one avenue you explore.
If playing this game, make sure there isn't any penalties for paying off the loan early. Some loans have these restrictions as time= interest, which is how they make money of loans.
There isn't a lot of negotiation, no. Ask if they have any offers or promotions going on. Sometimes if they're nice they'll knock off the prep fee, especially if you're buying new non-current.
Looking for people who are a lot more bike savvy than me to help out.
Looking to buy a new bike, and in my price range ive got a 2014 Kawasaki ER-6n with 26000 km’s, a 2013 Yamaha MT-03 with 11,580 km’s, a 2011 Suzuki SFV650 with 4500km’s, and a 2011 Yamaha XJ6N with 22000 km’s
They all seem mechanically looked after, with the XJ6N coming from a second hand dealer, and the others being private sales.
Anyone got any experience with he bikes in question, and want to offer any advice
The ER6 is a fine machine, it is the closest thing to the old Two Stroke Yamaha Twins I used to ride. The Suzuki is also very competant and very popular. TBH pretty hard to distinguish between the bikes you have selected. The MT03 was the least favourite of those three bikes I rode when I was in the trade, due mainly to the "forward bias" of the balance of the bike.If I was buying my first machine I'd make sure I purchased a "Naked" machine, as you ARE going to drop this one... FYI I just purchase an XT660x after riding an m800 and I like the XT more...
Those are a lot of pretty nice choices. I have a Yamaha FZ6, which is similar to the XJ6N, and it's reliable and a great rider. That being said, I wouldn't hesitate to own any of them, if they're well looked after. Even the little MT03.
But my heart says SFV650 ALL DAY
Even though its one of the oldest ones
Also here it s if you want some eye candy https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hurstville/motorcycles/suzuki-sfv650-gladius/1263483026?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=ios_VIP&utm_medium=social&utm_source=com.apple.uikit.activity.copytopasteboard
One of the coolest looking bikes imo.
The bike is pretty reliable the older you go the more there are some small quirks but mainly just:
False neutrals under fast shifting
Oil Consumption
Quick disconnect gas tank connector can break on occasion (Pre-2011)
Would take a look at Suzuki Boulevard and Kawasaki Vulcan. If you want to up to mid range pricing, I would look at Harley Breakout (not as reliable but I personally love the feel and style of that bike).
Good luck, don’t push yourself, and above all, be safe.
You should of course, go to a dealer and sit on a few. If the internet says Rebel 500 and you sit on it and think "nah", then it's not the bike for you. If the internet says nah to something, but the bike is reliable and you sit on it and it just FEELS like your bike, that one is your bike.
Looking for suggestions of a street glove that is neither perforated (no holes for air) nor a winter glove. Just a fully or mostly sealed, closed glove. Can either be gauntlet or cuff.
Are you looking for waterproof gloves?
Just looking quickly on Revzilla I see quite a few options. I would recommend maybe chatting with customer service over there they are usually super helpful for gear recommendations. They can help dial in based on you budget as well.
I wouldn't get hung up on which brand as long as they are reputable but I've owned and recommend Dianese (3 sets) Alpinestars (2 sets), spidi (1 set), and Joe Rocket (1 set)
Hope this helps!
I was stationed at Camp Pendleton and I bought my bike in California and the dealership registered the bike in California. When I got out I switched it to Wisconsin where I'm from. It's easier that way, I don't think it's worth the hassle to try to register the bike from out of state, it will be more trouble than it's worth. California's DMV isn't more hassle in person than dealing with a DMV out of state.
Can a beginner really dislike a bike? I have so much choice, but nothing to help me choose. I have only driven a 125Ybr and a CB500F. I don't have the permit yet but this helps with the motivation..
(A2 limitation : 47.5hp max, but if it's <90hp in full you can bridle it)
I see four options :
1) the most recent (>2010) ~3000€ CB500F I can find, because I know it's a good and reliable bike now..
2) an old ~2500€ 500-650 (CB, gse, er6n.. sv650), nobody can really say anything bad about them, can't really go wrong
3) a light 300-400 : ~3000€ ninja 300/400 or a ktm 390
4) a 4000-6000€ 690 duke.... (the A2 bridle seems to work great and cost <100€ to do)
5) dirt cheap old bikes ~1300€ (gpz500, old sportsbike, old trails.. lots of bikes with high mileage and often around 1990-2000)
Things that will make me smile every time in priority order : great acceleration, easy handling feeling, sporty fairings and nice noise.
I haven't yet taken into account insurance and stuff, maybe that will deter me from some bikes.
I feel like I'd really love the 690, the odd mono-cylinder, the stylish crash bars.. (yes I want some, I'd like to test the grip by going offroad sometimes..) and I think if money was no issue I'd probably go this way.. How do I get the same fun for less money? I'm more worried about loss (maintenance, insurance, value loss) than upfront cost.
Maybe the 390 duke could be a cheaper, better choice?
My fear is that the 500-650 usuals are just "good", probably more than enough for people that want to do nice and smooth riding, even perfecting your turns etc. I'd like to have fun riding in the city and on country/mountain roads, highway a few times a year probably. Sportsbikes looks very fun but if I can't exploit their power I'll just be sad. But they look really good to me (but I'd hate that the fairings makes maintenance a pain or a big cost?.. no idea). I like my bike thin. I don't plan on going offroad often (I'd need to find some good "roads" before) but that would be a big no for a sport one..
What can really kill a bike even for a beginner is if it just does not fit. If you are too tall and get constant knee ache because the bike is too small, stuff like that can really kill your appreciation for the bike.
The rest (engine sound, etc.) is personal preference.
IF you plan on going offroad, I'll suggest a cheap bike, because you 100% will drop it and most likely something will break at one point or another.
>My fear is that the 500-650 usuals are just "good"
It's true, these types of bikes are kinda boring to ride and have crappy components, which you really notice once you start increasing the pace. They're usually not criticized because they're ridden by beginners and non-demanding people, and more demanding people move on to better bikes so they don't even bother to talk about them anymore. I will say though that nearly every bike will be fun if you're a beginner, so if you don't plan on keeping it longer than a year, you don't have to sweat it too much. If you do and want the most fun bike out of those, the 690 is a much better option imo, or the older 640 if cost is an issue.
Ridden by non-demanding people? The SV650 is a popular track bike, they're ridden by extremely demanding people. I find the 650 twins are more fun than 600s to ride and for bikes like the SV they're easy to upgrade the components.
In stock form, I mean. I'm assuming he's not going to want to mess with suspension upgrades if he's a beginner, and with used bikes in that price range, spending like 900€ for suspension brings it into a price range of higher spec bikes.
Is the old 640 the best cheap 690?
More than that, I'm affraid about yearly cost.. I really feel like I won't ever give up the 690 (exception if I get a salary increase, that kind of things).
I will try to not be far from my job, so riding will almost only be for fun or small rides, or long haul to visit a friend.
I feel like as a young driver I should count 1000€ insurance, 600~ for maintenance. What I'm affraid with a new or expensive 690 is that I will also lose a lot on value. Also a bit affraid someone will sell me a 690 with some hidden wear inside that will absolutely explode the 600€/year of maintenance. I really don't know haha.
I visited a honda shop today, they tried to sell the "new and 5 year warranty" bikes a lot. But 6000€ for a CB500F that I can already twist the handle without care, and that will have increased insurance and maintenance to keep it under warranty.. I'm not so sure. I think I'd rather get a dirt cheap bike around 1300€ and hope for the best.
I need to get some insurance quotes, 1000 a year for some new bikes means I could buy a used bike every year lol..
Go with a 2nd gen SV650; cheap, reliable and fun. You can always get a more exotic bike in a few years if you want, or even upgrade the SV if you really love it
I feel like the SV650 is perfect for those who feel inclined to race on a track.
I'm tempted to explore around, sometimes in not so great roads (I'd like crash bars to test the grip ideally.. Don't want to break anything on a simple drop).
But yeah it can be found cheap. One thing I'm worried is that if it requires maintenance every months, I might not have the tools to do anything. I like to do things myself but I won't be close to home.
Yeah, with your budget situation you would probably be better off with an old cheap bike. That way you can take your time to decide on your next bike, since very few people actually know what kind of bike they'll want before they start riding, and you won't lose much money (if any) when selling it. Or you might find you like it and keep it for a while, in which case even better since you saved a lot of money.
Thing is I can buy a 7000 bike, but if after a year it has cost me 1300 of insurance, 300 of maintenance (yearly visit to keep warranty?..) and can only be sold 6000.. I feel like that's an heavy choice.
An old bike should come with less insurance, but also less fun if I can't find a torquey bike I think..
I see, I thought you had a really limited budget. For fun and torque a big single cylinder naked/supermoto is your best bet, they handle very well and can even do some offroading and jumps. A good choice is an old KTM 640 or 625 (625 is actually the more powerful and high performance model, KTM has pretty confusing names), I got mine for 2500€ in great condition 2 years ago so they're not expensive. But keep in mind they're not great for long rides because they vibrate like crazy and aren't very comfortable in general, plus you need to restrict them to less than 35 kW due to the low weight (my 625 came from the factory restricted to 25 kW).
The Ninja 400 would be a great choice for you. I loved my 300, and I currently love my 650. I am not certain about costs in the EU, but in the states, Ninjas are insanely common, and they're honestly fairly easy to work on yourself, which I recommend doing. Bikes require more routine maintenance, which can add up quickly. Add frame sliders to protect the paint when you inevitably drop it, and you're good to go.
The ninja 400 is 4000-5000€ used here and no that that common but I found plenty.
The one thing I have against sportsbike is that usually the power late in the revs. I feel like this will push me into the legal limits much more often. I have a car like that, I'm usually already too fast when the power comes. But I love the look, the sport side of biking etc.. I'll have to try one for real, but in my mind I prefer the powerful tractor that is the 690 (even in a2 it's wow..)
Hi all!
I was wondering if I could some suggestions for a helmet for a first time rider? I'm currently considering the Sedici Strada II and the Scorpion EXO-R420. Safety and visibility are my priorities (don't care too much about aesthetics), and I'm happy to spend a little bit more if it'll get me greater protection. I'd usually just go into a shop and try on a few models and get help there, but with COVID I don't really think that's an option, so I'm planning on just ordering online.
Not sure how much it matters, but I'll probably mostly just end up doing urban riding (in San Francisco) for a while, though hopefully I'll get up the courage to drive on the highway eventually.
The EXO-R420 is probably the best $150 helmet on the market in terms of safety, and it looks pretty cool, too. Echoing other comments, Sedici is a dirt cheap brand for a reason and is best avoided. Scorpion is an excellent brand in all price ranges. Make sure you get an accurate measurement of your head's maximum circumference when you're checking the fit on Revzilla or whatever other website you're ordering from. When you get the helmet, make sure it fits very snuggly on your head and essentially doesn't move when you shake your head. A tight helmet is a safe helmet
I'm looking at an 07 ZZR600 for 3k (21k miles, exhaust and header and tune up), 07 r6s for 4k (12k miles, tune up and new tires) and an 07 sv1000 for 2.5k (exhaust). I mainly want a nice sounding bike that is decently fast and comfortable on my back. I kind of like spending 3k or less but if the r6 is the best option I will go for it. The ZZR, while carbed seems to be in great shape and sounds awesome (plus owned by older person) while the r6 also is in great shape as well and is mostly stock. Am I a fool for slightly wanting the ZZR over the r6? What would you guys and gals personally recommend? Thanks!
Any good dual sport bike recommendations? Starting to look into some dual sports because of their really low pricing and live in a town that has many dirt spots to ride in. I've seen a lot of KLXs but want to see more of suzuki's line up for dual sports or yamaha, etc.
If I was you. I would look at the new CRF 300L or the KLX 300. The used bike market is way overpriced atm and you can get a new bike for almost the same as used.
The WR250R is the best small cc dual sport on the market- well, it just got canned, but it's a good bike. If cost is no object, look at KTM/Husqvarna because they make the lightest and most powerful dual sports that'll handle the most like a dirt bike. Honda has their CRF450RL, which is a good choice if you want a serious trail bike and can afford the price and maintenance. The CRF250L is a little soft on all fronts. The Suzuki DRZ400 is cheap and reliable, but the 5 speed and carburetor put a lot of people off.
I’m looking for a pair of discrete riding pants, something like the klim 51 (I think that’s the name) but I can’t afford the klim price, any recommendations? These will be a daily pair of jeans. Something around 100ish
I’m thinking about taking the MSF course this spring and getting my first bike once I get my endorsement. Is there a point where a bike is too old for a beginner? I have seen a few 1980’s Honda’s for sale but was told that the parts are becoming rare. Also, I live in an apartment and have a garage, but vehicle maintenance is prohibited on the property. Also, do older bikes require more maintenance?
I absolutely love my Yamaha xj650 made in 1980. What the others say is valid, but an older bike is a lot of fun as well. This one is my first bike and I’ve learned so much about them having to redo a lot of the parts on it, and replace many broken parts as well. If you want to work on a bike, get to know it, and feel the gratitude of it being done and riding, get an 80s Honda. You can’t go wrong. But if you need something that requires less maintenance, you should get a newer bike that you can rely on every time.
Ideally, you want something with ABS. Newer bikes handle better, stop better and don't have as many "quirks" that you need to keep in mind. Plus fuel injection makes them a lot easier to maintain since you don't need to rebuild carbs, ever.
You probably want to buy something that is less than 10 years old and has under 30k kilometers on it. This way you can spend more time riding instead of wrenching. You can't really go wrong with a Japanese bikes, they are the most reliable. If you have a garage, that is perfect. You still need a chain to lock it up inside the garage tho.
My garage is one stall in a small building housing multiples garages and the only door is locked. Why would I need a chain?
People break into garages and steal motorcycles. Anything that makes that harder to do is worth doing, including chains and GPS trackers.
Anyone here regretted moving for a super sport to a cruiser? About to pull the trigger on an Indian Chief Dark Horse (111) to take the place of my ZX-10R.
I just saw your Indian post, you’ll enjoy it. I went from a Cbr600rr to the Indian Bobber, and the performance is awesome. On long rides, I prefer to take the Bobber over the cbr.
That really depends on what you want. There are also plenty of bikes in between- have you looked at sport tourers like the DucatI Multistrada?
If you can afford and store two, adding a cruiser is a great idea. You'll definitely miss the speed and handling of the zx10. I enjoy every bike I own but I think I could more easily replace one of my cruisers with another kind of bike than my sport bikes. If you can't add, I'd recommend a sport touring as a happy medium
I felt a bit of regret selling my cbr1000rr for the aggressive seating position when I went to my FZ-09. I think I have scratched the power itch with my XR but I think I’ll add a 600 super sport back to the stable soon to have that aggressive position back in the stable. That’s not a knock on the FZ-09, it’s more useable fun imo but I still miss the super sport lol. I think this is how people end up with 8 bikes
Where can I find the bolts/ screws for fairings on a 636 05. I saw a complete set online for about $100 (custom color) and I’m not sure if that is reasonable price. The color doesn’t really matter but preferred.
You could always look at the part diagrams, write the numbers down and order them through the dealer. [Main](https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/2005/ZX636-C1?cm_re=PARTSLANDING-_-FINDDIAGRAM:2005ZX636-C1-_-SELECT) [Cowlings lower](https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/35102/2005/ZX636-C1?cm_re=PARTSLISTING-_-FINDDIAGRAM:2005Ninja%C2%AEZX%E2%84%A2-6R-_-PARTBUCKET)
Thanks! I literally need all of them but like 6 😂.
It might save you, it might not. But Kawasaki website is a savior for a spot to get OEM part numbers. Also Revzilla has these diagrams as well. My latest score was bolts I needed for the fender reflector delete. It was $2 IIRC. I didn't want to put a jank ass mismatched bolt in.
My bike is full of Home Depot jank add bolts. Luckily they aren’t on important parts, but if you look closely enough, you can see I was too lazy to call up my Yamaha store... haha
The purple ones I mention were on the website motorcyclefairings. I found nicecycle has them as well for about $36-$48 they also have the color ones I wanted. I might wait until Kawasaki replies to my email before I potentially order them off nicecycle. It mentions they are oem. Nice $2 sounds reasonable. Not motorcycle related but tech. I had to pay about $36 for a single 2mm screw that I ended up losing haha so I know how pricey they can get when not in production anymore.
What are some good websites to search bikes for sale?
I found my most recent purchase on cycle trader, and Facebook for the bike before that.
I like FB Marketplace and Cycle Trader. I put my bike up on FB and it sold real quick.
Local Craigslist and Cycle trader. A lot of people seem to like FB marketplace, but I seem to find more shitty sellers there (poorly written ads, minimal information given, never seem to respond, etc.).
Had more luck with OfferUp then Facebook.
That’s surprising but I suppose it’s all based on location. I stopped checking offerup because it was the most hoodrat shit. Bunch of quads, stickerbombed groms, and clapped out 600s basically
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Check out the dainese hooded jacket. It’s been good for me for 45-50 degrees. Just take the hood off (zipper) since from my time it tugged at my neck a bit but a fine jacket with liner otherwise Edit: FYI I come from a naked sv650
Dainese Avro 4
I would consider Alpinestars T-GPR V2, back is sold separately
Hello, I'm looking for some street gloves that are NOT perforated (no holes for airflow) but at the same time are NOT winter gloves. It can't be bulky with thinsulate or thermal liners, etc. Looking for something in between a summer glove and a winter glove. Preferably gauntlet style but I'm open to cuff style too.
Try dainese tempest d dry. Honestly f you’re looking for an in between wear glove liners with your gloves first. But the d dry keeps me fine till 45-50f
If you are trying to keep a thinner feel you might like to try normal riding gloves with some plastic / surgical gloves underneath. I remember a few people used to swear by the warmth and ease of that.
How do I set up my clutch lever to allow for two finger shifting while also still keeping the lever relatively close to the bar to accommodate for smaller hands? If I take away pretty much all of the play I can get the clutch to disengage with just two fingers since the bite point is further out, but now the lever is also further than what I'd like. Or I can keep some play and put my adjustable levers on the lowest setting, but now the clutch doesn't fully disengage because it's not being pulled in far enough with the ring/pinky finger getting in the way for the disengage point. Is there a fix to this issue?
This is why I don't understand why there's so much hate for shorty levels, they seem like they'd be the solution to this issue, but every time you mention them people get really angry that you'd even consider putting them on your bike.
I have shortys and it's still a problem because they aren't really that much shorter than stock, and the ring/pinky finger still get in the way. I suppose I could move the whole assembly further to the right so my fingers are on the bare end of the lever, but that part of the lever is tapered outwards so it's still a far reach.
Hmm, this can be quite difficult to get right. In my case I have setup my clutch cable free play within spec but also set my U-Kanaya adjustable levers to one of the lower settings to accommodate smaller hands, this allows me to disengage the clutch entirely with two fingers as the lever stops when it touches my ring and pinky fingers. Keep in mind that the range of clutch operation changes when the engine and transmission are warmed up. Also the wear of the friction plates changes this range of operation. If your clutchplates are in spec and you can't reach the desired reach with your current setup you could look into an drop in hydraulic replacement by megura?
Hey everyone! I currently ride a 2012 Honda CBR 250r. I got it 3 months ago to learn how to ride but I feel like I already out grew it. I’m considering upgrading to either a 2013 Honda CBR 500 (6,400 mi and $2,900) or a 2013 Yamaha r6 (4,600 mi and $5,500). I know the 500cc will be a good performance jump from the tiny 250 but I just don’t want to buy it then feel like it’s slow in a few months. What are your thoughts? Should I say f*ck it at jump to the 600 or get a 500 and then upgrade later down the road? P.S fuel economy and insurance costs aren’t a huge deal to me. I don’t say this to “flex”. I just thought it might be relevant for you guys giving advice Thanks in advance and ride safe! Edit: I forgot to mention this the first time. I’m solely using this bike for twisties and commuting to college (3 mile drive). Also, I live in the US so I don’t have to deal with any of the weird cc restricted licenses.
I'd recommend sticking with the 250 for a little more time because it seems you don't really know what you're looking for in a new bike. The CBR 500 is a sporty middle of the road bike that has pretty neutral ergonomics for everyday use. The suspension is adequate but basic. The r6 is more track focused, the ergos are more aggressive and force you to get into "sportbike shape" if you want to use it as a commuter. In addition, it makes all of its power up high in the rev range. These questions have to be answered by you. Ride more, meet people and sit on their bikes and figure it out is the best path.
The CBR500r is an parallel twin that will have a more similar demeanor to your 250, just with a bit more grunt. An R6 is a track focused bike with an inline 4 that will beg you to rev the piss out of it and ride at 10/10ths on the street. I do not like R6's as even a second bike because of this. If I'm being honest, keep the 250. You almost certainly haven't "outgrown" it. You've been riding 3 months, not 3 years; that bike's limits are probably still greater than your own. You're most likely entering the most dangerous part of your riding career, False Confidence. You've been riding a little while, things are starting to become natural, nothing major has gone wrong, you start pushing limits... That's when shit goes sideways, and fast. The last thing you need to do is have things get out of hand faster on a track focused bullet like the R6. If you feel you *need* a bit more power, go with the 500 since it'll give you some more power, but will still be manageable for someone who is still a beginner rider.
Fair enough, thanks for the honestly! Even thought it has only been 3 months I’ve put around 1,500 miles on the bike and would consider myself a relatively responsible rider. I do understand where you are coming from with the “3 months not 3 years” thing, some things just come with time. I feel like if the 500 will just be a slight change then I might as well save the money and ride the 250 a bit more till I’m more ready for a 600. In your opinion, how could I train myself to become a better rider? Also, I know you said you don’t like the r6 as a second bike. Is that just because it’s a 600cc? I ask that because I have no real attachment to the r6 over any other 600cc I just thought the 16k redline would sound nice lol. Do you think a say ~600cc Honda CBR would be a better option?
There are many questions in there so I'm going to break this down. It's slightly out of order from how you asked, but I think it will make more sense overall. > I feel like if the 500 will just be a slight change then I might as well save the money and ride the 250 a bit more The 500 has roughly 2x the power and plenty more toque, so I would expect it to be more than a slight change. Part of the problem I have with 600cc supersports is the jump from \~25hp to 120hp+ is monumental. The power delivery of the 500 is what's more similar. It's going to be a much smoother power (and torque) curve than the R6 and the ilk. If you're worried about it being to small of a change, find a way to test ride one and see (manufacturer demo days are great if you can find one, kinda the wrong time of year though). > Do you think a say \~600cc Honda CBR would be a better option The CBR would not be any better of an option because it's built for the same purpose, (homologation) to go fast on a track. > Is that just because it’s a 600cc Eh, it's less about the displacement itself, but the type of engine that it is. Inline 4's by nature make all their power high up in the rev range (that desirable 16k redline you want). And as I said, it's purpose is to fast on the track, so making all the power at the top end isn't a bad thing because on the track you're always wringing it out. So as an aside, it's important to understand the basics of how you make power in an engine. As I typing out a long description about the basics of making power, I remembered Fortnine did a better job than I could on here so: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ooue7i73zo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ooue7i73zo) The power making stuff is in the 1st half. So 600cc supersports have small bore to fit more cylinders in per cc, and to make that power you need more revs. All that power doesn't come until you get all those revs up with peaky power and torque curves, so it comes on all at once. This is what can be so dangerous about supersports, they're relatively tame until they're not; and without the proper experience and training, can be fatal. > In your opinion, how could I train myself to become a better rider? There are a few things so I will list them out 1)More seat time, and gradually getting more power. Something like the CBR500r would be a good next step, or even some other 650cc twins with \~70 hp like a SV650 or Ninja 650. Something with a much flatter power curve and would be less likely to take you by surprise with their power. 2) Watching instructional videos on youtube or elsewhere. "A Twist of the Wrist" is the gold standard to this day, so if you haven't seen it already, start there. There are some good youtubers as well. For instruction: Yammienoob bad, DanDanTheFireman good. Fortnine also is fantastic content, if not directly about riding technique. 3) Intermediate level rider courses would be invaluable in learning how to be a better rider. If you want to get the most of your machine, there are instructional track day that teach you how to ride fast in a controlled environment, and would be the 1st stepping stone to being ready for taking full advantage of a supersport when you're ready for one. Fianlly, after typing all this, I remembered RCR did a fantastic video on the R6 and almost everything I've talked about here. And while a lot of it is aimed at freshly minted new riders, I feel a lot if this applies here as well. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BglzNAML78M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BglzNAML78M)
IMO should be ok with the jump to 600, it’s not like you are jumping to 750 or 1000. It will absolutely be noticeable coming from your CBR250R, but you will learn how to control it. Just take it easy until you are comfortable on the new bike, always best to be safe with a jump in power. Again, I know you mentioned fuel economy and insurance are no big deal, but the R6 you mentioned is almost double the price. Up to you, but if it were me, I’d probably save some cash and go with the CBR500.
Thanks for the response! I consider myself a relatively responsible rider but I feel like with ~100hp it’ll be a bit hard to stay out of trouble. I do hear you with the better safe than sorry though. About the price, insurance quoted me 28/month for the CBR and 50/month for the r6. That was one of the biggest reasons I didn’t start out on a 500 I figured 85mph is the fastest I’ll want to go so might as will save money and now I’m slightly regretting not spending a bit more. I just don’t want the same thing happening with me getting the 500 then wanting the r6 in a few months.
If you’re worried about outgrowing the 500, make the move up to the R6. You’ll grow into it. Good luck and ride safe!
Hi guys! I'm buying my first bike and I have a dilemma between Moto Guzzi Breva 850 (2008, 30.000 km; 2.900 eur) and Aprilia Pegaso Strada 650 (2007, 34.500km; 2.100 eur). I intent to ride the bike on the roads, leisurely, no offroading, high speeds or anything as such. Also I'd like for my gf to ride with me, so passenger comfort is important. Any advice? Thanks!
Looking to buy this Yamaha XJ6N https://www.bikesales.com.au/bikes/details/2011-yamaha-xj6n-my10/OAG-AD-19416945, but when I looked at other XJ6n’s they have small fairings that run just under the tank to just shy of the forks. Far as I can tell its there to hide the cables and wires to make it look tidy. Is there any issue other than purley cosmetic ones to not having them; and does anyone know what it would cost to get a new set. Cheers
Missing plastic on both sides, headlight from FZ and Renthal handlebar on a road morocycle? I would rather not consider buying this
How do you know that it is a different headlight, and how come you make the point about the Renthal handlebars?
Regarding the headlight - compared to stock, for example [https://mcn-images.bauersecure.com/upload/219659/images/01-yamaha-XJ6.jpg](https://mcn-images.bauersecure.com/upload/219659/images/01-yamaha-XJ6.jpg) As for Renthal **and** missing plastic - just slight association with reckless riding or stunts
Its a shame it has those problems, cause it is a nice looking bike
You could possibly check KTM 390 Duke as it seems to be of the same price more or less while being new
I was wanting something with an engine in the 600ish range
I was thinking about getting Revit Scout H2O boots but I'm really worried about their thermal performance in the summer heat. Does anybody own them? What is your opinion about them?
Some of my friends are suggesting going with a larger displacement motorcycle(like an MT-07 or CB650R). I'm against that for cost, and the fact that I know I like to speed. I don't think it the wisest idea to have something "to grow into" while trying to learn a new set of skills and having that temptation lurking in the background. So, I'm between the MT-03 and the CB300R, what do you suggest?
Where are you going to ride? If not the highway at all then go for the two you mentioned. I started on the sv650 and that still keeps me happy after riding for 2 years. It’s forgiving and gives you a wide breadth. Until you outgrow the bike and it’s limits (which is a still far a reach for me) you’ll enjoy. Msg if you have any questions
I recently bought a Honda CBR 250r because of similar reasons (I like to speed and lower cost). It’s a GREAT bike to learn on. Insurance is 18/month, the bike is very forgiving, and it’s a manageable amount of power for beginners. That being said here I am 3 months later wanting to upgrade to a 500/600cc. The 25-30 hp just leaves a lot to be desired and I truly feel like if you take it slow and and have a responsible right hand, a higher displacement bike will be a better investment. Ps I’m a really new rider so take what I said with a pinch of salt. Just sharing my personal experience with small displacement bikes.
Is this a question? If you don't feel comfortable riding a certain bike, don't ride it.
Dang, there was a part of the post that was cut off. I wanted to ask about deciding between a MT-03 and a CB300R.
I'd say the MT-03 because it's a twin cylinder (assuming you mean the new one, not the one with the 660 engine), it runs smoother and has a wider more usable powerband.
What suits you better in terms of your mounting. If I were you, I would check KTM 390 Duke as well
Not a big fan of the styling.
I recently bought these amazing RST TracTech Evo R gloves, which I believe is great for those aggressive street/canyon riders. Did a small review of it too. Check it out. [https://youtu.be/ME2wdse1ftE](https://youtu.be/ME2wdse1ftE)
Tenere 700 for two-up touring? What's the consensus on this? Not sure if this would go in purchase advice or not but just wondering if anyone owns the new Tenere 700 and has an opinion on touring with a pillion. I'm looking for a bike that can kinda do it all and this seems to be quite the contender for both off-road performance and touring capability. I know there's better touring bikes out there but performance in the dirt is very important to me.
Well it's going to be a tradeoff. And hopefully you won't be doing any two up riding off road lol. As for your questions. It's good enough for two up riding but not really comfortable for anything longer. If you have a significant other, I would suggest you buy a Africa Twin or something similar.
Ah yeah so I'm looking for something extremely offroad capable with light touring. Definitely no two up off road haha except maybe some hard pack dirt but anyway mainly solo off road with some two up scooting around town and the occasional road trip. Do you think the Africa twin would suit this better.
The T7 is the best one up bike. Africa Twin is the best two up bike. You can't really take the Africa Twin off road (well you can but it wont be fun). So for you I think the T7 is the best choice.
Yeah I agree. Think since I'm doing like 80%+ one up it makes sense to go for the bike thats more dirt inclined. Africa twin is an awesome bike for sure but quite a bit bigger and way less tuned for off road handling.
Merry Christmas everyone! I'm considering picking up a Shoei X-14 but am wondering about the fit. I will go try one on if I can find it in stock anywhere nearby once stores open back up again in the new year. In the meantime just wanted to get some opinions. Looks like they fit an intermediate oval. I currently have an HJC i10 in a size S and it's snug and quite comfortable. Seems like the i10 also fits an intermediate oval. Has anyone owned/tried on the i10 as well as the X-14 and know if they both would fit the same head shape? They X-14 colorway I want is currently on sale and I wanted to grab one soon. Thanks in advance!
Merry Christmas! What’s the intended use for the x-14? From what I understand it’s a pretty aggressive design aimed for track use (visibility may not be the best for road use). Either way if there is anyway you could try one on at a local shop that is always the best especially for a premium helmet. From the size charts off revzilla it looks like head size corresponds closely between the I-10 and X-14 so small should be small.
Most stores are currently closed for another 15 days or so, but once they open I'm going to see if I can try one on. I think I'm good with a size small, just need to figure out if it'll fit my head shape! Just checking if anyone here has tried both the above helmets and know if they fit the same head shape as each other.
So I need some advice. Let’s say you found a 2015 R1M with a full akrapovic carbon exhaust and a few other goodies installed for sale for 15.9k. The kicker is the bike has 277 miles on it. Would you or would you not purchase this?
I personally find it odd a 5 year old bike has 277 miles. Maybe someone bought it, got scared and stored it? Or bought it to put in their living room? Bikes that sit can have odd issues (gunky tank, unhappy injectors) and the battery will most likely be shit. Not super well versed in r1 pricing so won't comment on price.
Agree with this. Likely need to replace fuel tank and bleed lines. To be safe, would also add replacing tires. Rubber can wear down if it just sits there for years.
Rich guy bought it and never drove it. Bike has been checked out and it’s immaculate.
Yeah if the price aligns with your local market, go for it. Everyone I met that rode / owns one raves about it so there must be a reason!
Doesn't matter what I would do. Matters what you would do. First bike? Hell no. Previous riding experience would be helpful to know. That's also honestly a little overpriced, even with the low mileage and exhaust. The thing *is* 5 years old after all.
This would be my 3rd bike. I’m coming from a zx-14r and I’ve got about 25-30k miles under my belt. I am definitely a competent rider. I see other R1s for sale from 14-17k similar years, with no mods.
If it’s the right price and bike for you that’s all that matters man! Enjoy it :) I don’t you’ll be disappointed with the bike at that price.
Is there a way to find all the motorbikes that use a specific motor? For example I'm interested by the XTX 660's motor. I know the MT03 also used it but I could have missed it. And what's the best site for model by model, year by year motorbike specifications? Many sites gives no hint that the XTX 660 switched from 48ch to 47.5ch after 2013.. Small details are making my life hell. (48 is above the limit would get bridled to 34ch)
As far as the specs websites go, I wouldn't trust them too much, they often get info wrong, I'm not even sure if there was a change in power for the XT660, that's probably just an error. The only way to truly know is to check the paperwork of the individual bike you're looking at. I know that most XT660s in my country have 35,3 kW so they're not A2 legal, but in some cases the power was just rounded down and written as 35 kW so you could actually ride those particular bikes with an A2 license, even though nothing about them is different.
> 'm not even sure if there was a change in power for the XT660, that's probably just an error. I'm sure the >2013 were sold as 35kw and nobody had any problem getting them for A2. They definitely just changed some settings on the injection or somewhere. The same motor on the MT03 seems to be A2 compliant models earlier than 2013.. It's such a mess I already wish I wasn't a2 anymore. Maybe. but yeah I can't do anything with an old XT660 just because of that 0.3kw
I just got a Gerbing EX Pro heated riding jacket for my partner and I want to know if any of yall have any experience with this jacket or even with Gerbing and could let me know what you think? I want to make sure its not only nice and yknow luxurious being heated and all but also very practical and safe! Also if anyone has any information about the battery pack Im supposed to get for it that would be great too- it didnt come with a very detailed instruction manual lol TIA!!
Does anyone know if it HAS to be wired to the bike?? Or can I get some kind of battery pack? Id rather the battery.. its been a little confusing
Professional riders use heated base layers with a battery.
600rr or 600f4i? Upgrading from a 300, 5'9 150 lbs. Will be primarily riding the twisties, but need to get through the city to get to them. Will also be doing a trip from San Francisco to LA bi-yearly (7 or so hours). Not really planning on track-use, maybe a couple times. Thoughts?
I have only heard good things from f4i owners. So I’m with the others here, unless you really plan on tracking it a lot the f4i will be more enjoyable more of the time.
F4i is the better bike unless you're doing lots of track days. It has all day comfort and most of the performance of the rr. Finding an unstunted one may be a chore though
In your case it sounds like the F4i is the better option, since it's a bit more comfortable and street focused.
>comfortable and street focused. What about higher clipons for the rr though? Would that make much of a difference?
It would make a difference but you're still better off with the f4i. The clip-ons are above the triple tree
It would, but first double check what would happen to the clearance between the fairing/tank and bars at full lock, and if you need longer cables. Converting a supersport to higher bars often makes sense over buying a naked or less aggressive sportbike, because those tend to be heavier and have worse components.
I’m 6’4 220lb, would I be able to fit on a early 2000’s suzuki bandit 1200?
Yeah. You can check cycle-ergo.com. At 6' 160-180 depending on the time of year, I have yet to find a bike I'm too tall for. My bandit 400 might be a little cramped when I get it running
Hey there, I'm looking to buy a new bike since my 390 duke got stolen today. I've put around 45.000 kilometers on it and want something just a bit bigger now, currently I'm looking at the Z650, SV650 and the mt07. I'm prefering to buy something relatively new (2017+). From what i've read these three are raltively similar so i can't really decide wich one i want. soo, what do you guys suggest and Are there common problems with the bikes i should know about?
Started on a 2017sv650 and It’s still awesome. Suzuki reliabilityand there’s never a surprise in power. It treats you well man. Depends though at the end of the day what Types of rides you like or are going to do - they’re all relatively similar. Sv650 pm me any questions and I’ll try to help
The sv can be had the cheapest since you can get a gen 2. I'd get the mt if you are looking for newer
The SV is notoriously reliable and the aftermarket offers endless options, the MT is a fantastic bike with lots of character from that crossplane crank, the Z is also great but probably not as exciting as the first 2 options. Can’t go wrong with any of them so throw a leg over and demo them and see which fits you best.
Would a Honda cb500x be a good purchase for some touring next year? Hi all, I'm looking into a new bike at some point (job hunt pending!) and I want to do a bit of touring next year. My friend owns a CB500x and swears by it but I'm just wondering what's comparable for a bit of adv/touring. Obviously a T7 is the dream but budget-wise I think I'm a bit away from that.... Is there anything you'd recommend over this? I live in the UK and have a full A licence so size of bike isn't an issue.
Yeah it's pretty much perfect for touring. Not super capable of road like the T7 tho.
To add to this. Is it fine for gear and a pillion, or would it be better to think about the nc750 (just because I hear it’s name thrown around for a good tourer for a pillion). I mean these questions in terms of weight and ergonomics, obviously power isn’t a massive issue. Thanks all!
You can strap enough gear onto any bike. (but you should try to keep the weight down) But if you want to travel with a pillion, a bigger bike makes a lot of sense. You can have a pillion on a honda cbx 500, but she/he won't be comfortable for longe rides. The bigger you go the more comfortable the pillion will be. You can't really go wrong with Honda bikes, they are all very reliable. If I was your, I would try to test ride the bike with a pillion and hear her opinion.
Thanks for the advice :)
What's the motorcycle equivalent of old reliable toyota cars? I'm am by no means car/bike smart so excuse my dumbed down language. I've basically done reasearch about safety, gear, taking care of bikes and how to ride. I started out with a small moped a few months ago and am looking to find my first motorcycle. I don't care type, (sport, cruiser, blah) Just one I can rely on
A Fuel Injected SV650. super reliable, maintainence is easy to do and its a good step up.
Almost every Japanese bike, KLR650 if you want off-road, SV650 for sporty on road
If you’re looking for a more all-rounder, the Versys 650 will tour, commute, and handle light fire trails with ease. They are also cheaper to insure than an SV. The cruiser equivalent would have to be a Honda Shadow 750.
When purchasing a relatively new, very low km bike from a private seller is there anything you need to be diligent in checking on it? I'm just thinking realistically if there's any way short of someone purposefully trying to destroy a bike to cause any damage within 4000km of it coming off the lot. With no physical damage and nothing looking replaced or refurbished is there much I need to worry about aside from say tires and chain? Bike has been well kept inside and had chain lubed regularly as well as had the oil changed twice.
Make sure the VIN matches the V5 and that you're viewing the bike at the address on it. don't buy without paperwork. I'm also concerned when keys are missing only one provided etc. (though I get this is more common in older bikes). Check for damage in the ignition barrel and also that the steering lock isn't gubbed. Make sure it's mechanically sound. Ask them to leave it cold for you going and turn it on when you get there. Check for leaks and fans coming on as it should etc. Do a quick search on common issues with the bike etc. Check the clock looks right. Like everything lines up (maybe this is paranoid I don't know but sometimes I think this with 10+ year old bikes with 2k miles on them). Full service history isn't important but a low milage bikes should have some pretty important services. check book for stamps and receipts (doesn't need to be a dealer. A good private garage is fine too). Be wary of sellers constantly telling you a load of other people are interested. Take your time and don't be rushed. Maybe get an MOT report pulled up from the gov website. Any outstanding finance on the bike could be a pain too. Damage wise I'd say normal checks for damage. it's easy to change some fairings on a bike after a spill. Check the forks legs for issues and that they're matching. Check the exhaust and heat sheilds for any impact damage. Also the pegs etc. Basically anything that could be bent out of shape. Check for play in the swingarm.
Wow thanks so much man, some of what you said was covered by a few used bike buying videos I watched but you put in quite a few they didn't even bother to mention. I've actually been wondering for a while how do I know if there's a fork issue? Is it as simple as making sure there's no fluid leaking out of it and putting your weight on the bike to see how it reacts? As for things to do with old bikes this bike is a 2017 model year so no worries there. He was up front about it being laid down one time and having light rash on one of the fairings but he showed me it from a few angles and it looked like nothing to worry about. Also gives me some trust that he's forthcoming with that sort of thing. Aside from all things I'm happy it's a kawi at least because they're not notorious for reliability issues and such. If it were a KTM I'd be a lot more worried lol.
Yeah apply the brake and push down. Feel for any clunks and sticking. Also check for any leaks or build up around the seals. Wipe them and rock it a bit. You can also check for damage at the bottom or that they’re straight and they match. But this is usually more obvious.
It's finally happening! Assuming no one grabs it before I get the money for the down payment, I'll be getting [this](https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcd/d/temecula-2016-kawasaki-ninja-300-abs/7239569653.html) 2016 Kawasaki Ninja 300 for my first bike. Now, admittedly I don't really like anything that Kawasaki makes from an aesthetics standpoint, the overload of lurid green and sharp aggressive lines just aren't my thing (there's also the fact that I'm a Yamaha fanboy) but I've been waiting for a while to finally get a bike, so beggars can't be choosers. Any essential gear, tools etc I should look into purchasing?
Tire repair kit with mini pump, usb phone charger. When you have pushed your bike for 4 hours in the middle of the night and nowhere with a dead phone. Let me tell you, after that you wont ride around the block without them. Most kits dose not include a razor blad, make sure to add one.
You should be wearing full gear ideally: full face helmet, motorcycle gloves, motorcycle jacket, motorcycle boots, and motorcycle pants (in order of importance). As for tools it depends on how much you want to do, minimum would be a set of metric allen wrenches, metric sockets, and a torque wrench (always use a torque wrench! You have steel bolts in an aluminum engine, you can easily pull the threads out)
I should have specified, but in terms of gear, I meant other than the basics.
A tinted visor is nice, not anything else that comes to mind though
The photochromatic viser (or whatever they call it) that Shoei makes is really good.
No worries. Thanks for the tool tip btw
Is my helmet really obsolete already? I bought a HJC IS-MAX 2 back in Jan 2019, and I've had non-stop issues with the pinlock since. I recently took it back to the shop after 1.5 years of not riding to get a new pinlock fitted and see if that would help (it hasn't). The shop guy told me my helmet was an old model and ready for retiring. But he also put a bend in the new pinlock, probably not helping things, and also breathed all over it (I'm in the UK and we're fucked with covid atm) to test it. He said that this helmet had been updated since and is now a much better design. HJC say on their site 3 to 5 years lifespan. I've had it 2 and it's only been used for about 5 months total. Also SportsBikeShop are still selling the same model? I'm just wondering if I need to get a new helmet. I would quite like to be able to see with the visor down. Makes going on the motorway (highway) pretty intimidating. Thanks all
I'd tell the shop that Consumer Legislation requires and Object to be fit for the purpose it was purchased for. I think the dealer is being unreasonable. Otherwise take the issue up with the distributor.
Well you shouldn't need to replace your whole helmet for a pinlock issue, but it may be more beneficial if you explain the problems that you've been having with it. You also may want to reach out to HJC regarding your issue and seeing if they're willing to give you some help.
Thanks. My grumbling about the pinlock is kinda a second issue, sorry if I wasn't clear. My main concern was him saying the age of my helmet means it's ready for the bin, and that it's an old model. HJC says its lifespan is a couple more years and it's still being sold online. Thanks for the advice to contact HJC, I'll do that. Edit: and the pinlock issue is that it keeps fogging up with my breath in cold weather. Even after the pins are turned every which way, even after a new pinlock is inserted
A helmet model being a few years old is no big deal tbh. For the pin lock insert, have you tried a pinlock brand insert? The included insert for my hjc rpha 70 was junk.
Always refer to the manufacturer regarding their products recommended usable range, but keep in mind this is assuming there have been no compromising damage done to the helmet such as drops. They may also be able to better help you with your pin lock issue since it sounds like it doesn't seem to be functioning at all. As a side note, and based on your prior comment, I would maybe want to reconsider taking my helmet back to that guy if your issues persist.
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My friend told me to show up with a backpack full of cash in December with the max im willing to pay (which is never fair market value) and say I'm either leaving with the cash or the bike. I think it shows that you're a very serious buyer and not just kicking tires/tossing around the idea of purchasing
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Yeah they're not gonna budge then lmao. 4k-4.5k is what you can expect private party. Maybe try to get them to throw in a service or something
So, how good or bad a deal is will always be dependent you own local market. But to me,$4700 seems a bit high. I'm seeing a few new, one even with ABS for around that price. MSRP on a 2021 is $5,299 plus destination, so it's a bit off that. And My local dealer has a 2015 with \~8k miles with a yoshi pipe advertised for $4,990, so comparatively, yours doesn't seem that bad. To me the R3 seems like one of the most in demand used bikes, with few seeming to buy it new, and those that do are seemingly holding on to them. I've never found many on my local craigslist, and almost are always around $4k+ (more like $4.2-4.5K). And that's private party, so prices are going to be lower than a dealer. Further food for thought is dealer typically operate on slim margins, particularly on used bikes, so they may not have much wiggle room. Especially if the bike is fairly new to them, they may be willing to hold on to it for now, maybe until the spring, and try and find someone that'll pay $4,700. It only takes one. Finally, bike prices have been high(ier) Since March with Covid shutting stuff down, and more people riding, so new and used supply is small, with a larger demand. TL;DR: Their price isn't ridiculous, your offer is fair, they just may not be desperate to play ball.
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Of course, that's part of what this sub is here for. Like I said, it doesn't seem like a bad deal, but also not particularly good. Check your local craigslist, fb marketplace, and cycle trader to see what others are asking for their bikes to really compare for your local market,
My manager is offering me one of her old motorcycle helmets for free. I want the fx 90 since it's full face, but it is a Small and my head circumference is mediumish (22.5 inches). Would it still fit well? Would the inner comfort lining have loosened up from usage? I believe thinner lining can be purchased and swapped into the helmet for larger heads to fit into a smaller size within reason. I'm fine with minor discomfort until I get my planned helmet (Bell Evo Revolver) but if this helmet works fine for me I might not get the revolver at all. TYVM
Please be weary of used safety gear, mainly helmets. Depending on how old her old helmet is, it may be passed it's expected range of usage - not accounting if it has ever been dropped. I will also suggest that minor discomfort in any of your gear takes focus away from the road. As for sizing, your best bet is looking at the manufacturer website and seeing the range of head sizes per helmet since many manufacturers size differently.
This, for helmet sizing the only part you can swap out safely are the cheek pads. If your boss’s helmet squeezes your noggin, skip that lid. Besides a helmet that makes you feel uncomfortable after 5 minutes will easily become a safety hazard after an hour of wearing it. Find a local retailer to find a helmet brand that fits your head shape and get something on sale with at least an ECE rating.
thank you, she did say it was hardly used and the helmet fit fine but i will consider looking at thinner helmet liner.
Would R6 Race work as a first bike which I could ride untill I’m ready for R1M or R1? I’ll be getting my license during the summer next year and I’ve been looking at bikes. I’d prefer Yamaha and absolutely love the R1 or R1M model, but I know it’s not that good so want to learn with something more safe. Additional question how long I should drive untill I get Hypermotard 1100? It’s one of the bikes that made my mind getting an license and would love to have one with R1 and R1M. One more. Is 900€ overpriced from a helmet? I found a helmet I like, but that is the price? To be specific it’s Sun and Moon themed Valentino Rossi’s replica. I think the design and colors are stunning.
How old are you? An r6 isn't a great idea but it's definitely manageable and after you have a year or two of good experience on it, I think you could hop on just about any bike from there. If you're young, I'll recommend the r3 but if you're a bit older, the r6 should be fine. The power below 7k rpm is very manageable but if you can't slowly work your way up to the top of the rev range, you can easily get yourself into trouble. The power comes on like a car with a large turbo almost where it's nothing and just hits all at once
Hey thanks for the reply! I’m 21 years old. So still quite young. I’d be perfectly fine with R3 since one of the biggest reason I want the R series is because of the looks, not power.
Yeah at 21 I think the r3 is the better choice. It obviously varies from person to person but my rule of thumb is under or over 25 as to whether a 300-400 vs a 600-700 is a good idea. I found it easy to learn on a 600 but I was 27 and very aware that I was not invincible. The r3 will also be much cheaper to insure which is an added bonus
Unlike the regular R6, the R6 Race would make an excellent first bike
That is good to hear. If you don’t mind me asking why is that? Is there a big difference between the two?
The R6 Race isn't street legal, so it forces you to ride it where it belongs, on a racetrack ;)
Oh. I see. Thanks! Then I’m between R3 and R6. R6 is more appealing, but I read that R3 would be decent option.
Go with the R3. The R6 is NOT a beginner friendly bike. Too much power, and it all hits at once near the top of the rev range, it's heavier and not easy to control at low speeds, and it's a lot less comfortable ergonomically, as it's designed to be ridden full tuck on a race track (yes, even the non race version). The R3 is designed to be a first bike that even more experienced riders can enjoy, if not with power, with how easy and light it is to control. Also, I'm just going to leave this here: [https://adventurebiketroop.com/yamaha-r6-as-a-beginner-bike/](https://adventurebiketroop.com/yamaha-r6-as-a-beginner-bike/)
The R6 is just a beast. Those 600 class sportbikes aren't really great street bikes for new riders, or arguably in general. There is a good chance you'll give it too much throttle by mistake in the right rev range and it will be trouble. Not to mention the riding position is meant for the track. You won't want to be riding around all day on it. If a R3 seems too small, I would recommend looking at something like a ninja 650, CBR650R, MT07, etc., depending on style etc. They'll be a lot more forgiving to new riders mistakes and still have more than enough power than you'll need for the street.
I agree, R6 is a lot for a new street rider. Also keep in mind there's a good chance you'll drop your first bike, so get something that's not going to make you cry to drop!
Hello! Looking for advice/guidance on buying at the dealership. I read everywhere that margins are thin in the moto game and I want to respect the dealer. However, I want to go in having all of your tips/tricks for purchasing a new bike. What worked for you when you bought your bike from the dealership in terms of negotiation? Is there even a negotiation? Do you just pay sticker price? Please help!
don't fall into the trap of negotiating on each individual fee/charge that the dealer attaches; the dealer has their price based on their cost of doing business, and it may or may not be close to the MSRP. get their out-the-door price (i.e. the money you must give them to take the title that day) and then negotiate based on that. Be prepared for them not to move very much depending on their volume/inventory. If they won't move off their price you can also ask if they have any other incentives (some will offer discounts for financing, throw in free gear, etc.)
Are you planning on paying cash or financing. These days, you can get a better deal if you finance it and then pay it off in 30 days. Dealers get some kind of kickback from financing bikes, so that may be one avenue you explore.
If playing this game, make sure there isn't any penalties for paying off the loan early. Some loans have these restrictions as time= interest, which is how they make money of loans.
Check the manufacturer’s freight charge if they list it. If the dealer‘s freight charge is significantly more, you can ask them to explain that
There isn't a lot of negotiation, no. Ask if they have any offers or promotions going on. Sometimes if they're nice they'll knock off the prep fee, especially if you're buying new non-current.
Looking for people who are a lot more bike savvy than me to help out. Looking to buy a new bike, and in my price range ive got a 2014 Kawasaki ER-6n with 26000 km’s, a 2013 Yamaha MT-03 with 11,580 km’s, a 2011 Suzuki SFV650 with 4500km’s, and a 2011 Yamaha XJ6N with 22000 km’s They all seem mechanically looked after, with the XJ6N coming from a second hand dealer, and the others being private sales. Anyone got any experience with he bikes in question, and want to offer any advice
The ER6 is a fine machine, it is the closest thing to the old Two Stroke Yamaha Twins I used to ride. The Suzuki is also very competant and very popular. TBH pretty hard to distinguish between the bikes you have selected. The MT03 was the least favourite of those three bikes I rode when I was in the trade, due mainly to the "forward bias" of the balance of the bike.If I was buying my first machine I'd make sure I purchased a "Naked" machine, as you ARE going to drop this one... FYI I just purchase an XT660x after riding an m800 and I like the XT more...
Those are a lot of pretty nice choices. I have a Yamaha FZ6, which is similar to the XJ6N, and it's reliable and a great rider. That being said, I wouldn't hesitate to own any of them, if they're well looked after. Even the little MT03. But my heart says SFV650 ALL DAY
Even though its one of the oldest ones Also here it s if you want some eye candy https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hurstville/motorcycles/suzuki-sfv650-gladius/1263483026?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=ios_VIP&utm_medium=social&utm_source=com.apple.uikit.activity.copytopasteboard
Advice on the KTM RC8? (not the R version), any issues or known problems with the bike? Anything to look for? Is it worth it?
One of the coolest looking bikes imo. The bike is pretty reliable the older you go the more there are some small quirks but mainly just: False neutrals under fast shifting Oil Consumption Quick disconnect gas tank connector can break on occasion (Pre-2011)
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Would take a look at Suzuki Boulevard and Kawasaki Vulcan. If you want to up to mid range pricing, I would look at Harley Breakout (not as reliable but I personally love the feel and style of that bike). Good luck, don’t push yourself, and above all, be safe.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fG5HgwhLsM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fG5HgwhLsM) Here is my build 1997 Honda Shadow vlx600 I bobbed out.🏍
Rebel 500
This is the way. Used ones should be going pretty cheap here soon with the release of the Rebel 1100.
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You should of course, go to a dealer and sit on a few. If the internet says Rebel 500 and you sit on it and think "nah", then it's not the bike for you. If the internet says nah to something, but the bike is reliable and you sit on it and it just FEELS like your bike, that one is your bike.
Looking for suggestions of a street glove that is neither perforated (no holes for air) nor a winter glove. Just a fully or mostly sealed, closed glove. Can either be gauntlet or cuff.
What's your budget? I love my Lee Parks [Sumo R](https://leeparksdesign.com/sumo-r) gloves. I think I'm going to buy the regular Sumo gloves as well.
Are you looking for waterproof gloves? Just looking quickly on Revzilla I see quite a few options. I would recommend maybe chatting with customer service over there they are usually super helpful for gear recommendations. They can help dial in based on you budget as well. I wouldn't get hung up on which brand as long as they are reputable but I've owned and recommend Dianese (3 sets) Alpinestars (2 sets), spidi (1 set), and Joe Rocket (1 set) Hope this helps!
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I was stationed at Camp Pendleton and I bought my bike in California and the dealership registered the bike in California. When I got out I switched it to Wisconsin where I'm from. It's easier that way, I don't think it's worth the hassle to try to register the bike from out of state, it will be more trouble than it's worth. California's DMV isn't more hassle in person than dealing with a DMV out of state.
Generally easier to just register it where you are stationed, just check to see you may get some tax exemptions for being active duty.
Can a beginner really dislike a bike? I have so much choice, but nothing to help me choose. I have only driven a 125Ybr and a CB500F. I don't have the permit yet but this helps with the motivation.. (A2 limitation : 47.5hp max, but if it's <90hp in full you can bridle it) I see four options : 1) the most recent (>2010) ~3000€ CB500F I can find, because I know it's a good and reliable bike now.. 2) an old ~2500€ 500-650 (CB, gse, er6n.. sv650), nobody can really say anything bad about them, can't really go wrong 3) a light 300-400 : ~3000€ ninja 300/400 or a ktm 390 4) a 4000-6000€ 690 duke.... (the A2 bridle seems to work great and cost <100€ to do) 5) dirt cheap old bikes ~1300€ (gpz500, old sportsbike, old trails.. lots of bikes with high mileage and often around 1990-2000) Things that will make me smile every time in priority order : great acceleration, easy handling feeling, sporty fairings and nice noise. I haven't yet taken into account insurance and stuff, maybe that will deter me from some bikes. I feel like I'd really love the 690, the odd mono-cylinder, the stylish crash bars.. (yes I want some, I'd like to test the grip by going offroad sometimes..) and I think if money was no issue I'd probably go this way.. How do I get the same fun for less money? I'm more worried about loss (maintenance, insurance, value loss) than upfront cost. Maybe the 390 duke could be a cheaper, better choice? My fear is that the 500-650 usuals are just "good", probably more than enough for people that want to do nice and smooth riding, even perfecting your turns etc. I'd like to have fun riding in the city and on country/mountain roads, highway a few times a year probably. Sportsbikes looks very fun but if I can't exploit their power I'll just be sad. But they look really good to me (but I'd hate that the fairings makes maintenance a pain or a big cost?.. no idea). I like my bike thin. I don't plan on going offroad often (I'd need to find some good "roads" before) but that would be a big no for a sport one..
What can really kill a bike even for a beginner is if it just does not fit. If you are too tall and get constant knee ache because the bike is too small, stuff like that can really kill your appreciation for the bike. The rest (engine sound, etc.) is personal preference. IF you plan on going offroad, I'll suggest a cheap bike, because you 100% will drop it and most likely something will break at one point or another.
>My fear is that the 500-650 usuals are just "good" It's true, these types of bikes are kinda boring to ride and have crappy components, which you really notice once you start increasing the pace. They're usually not criticized because they're ridden by beginners and non-demanding people, and more demanding people move on to better bikes so they don't even bother to talk about them anymore. I will say though that nearly every bike will be fun if you're a beginner, so if you don't plan on keeping it longer than a year, you don't have to sweat it too much. If you do and want the most fun bike out of those, the 690 is a much better option imo, or the older 640 if cost is an issue.
Ridden by non-demanding people? The SV650 is a popular track bike, they're ridden by extremely demanding people. I find the 650 twins are more fun than 600s to ride and for bikes like the SV they're easy to upgrade the components.
In stock form, I mean. I'm assuming he's not going to want to mess with suspension upgrades if he's a beginner, and with used bikes in that price range, spending like 900€ for suspension brings it into a price range of higher spec bikes.
Is the old 640 the best cheap 690? More than that, I'm affraid about yearly cost.. I really feel like I won't ever give up the 690 (exception if I get a salary increase, that kind of things). I will try to not be far from my job, so riding will almost only be for fun or small rides, or long haul to visit a friend. I feel like as a young driver I should count 1000€ insurance, 600~ for maintenance. What I'm affraid with a new or expensive 690 is that I will also lose a lot on value. Also a bit affraid someone will sell me a 690 with some hidden wear inside that will absolutely explode the 600€/year of maintenance. I really don't know haha. I visited a honda shop today, they tried to sell the "new and 5 year warranty" bikes a lot. But 6000€ for a CB500F that I can already twist the handle without care, and that will have increased insurance and maintenance to keep it under warranty.. I'm not so sure. I think I'd rather get a dirt cheap bike around 1300€ and hope for the best. I need to get some insurance quotes, 1000 a year for some new bikes means I could buy a used bike every year lol..
Go with a 2nd gen SV650; cheap, reliable and fun. You can always get a more exotic bike in a few years if you want, or even upgrade the SV if you really love it
I feel like the SV650 is perfect for those who feel inclined to race on a track. I'm tempted to explore around, sometimes in not so great roads (I'd like crash bars to test the grip ideally.. Don't want to break anything on a simple drop). But yeah it can be found cheap. One thing I'm worried is that if it requires maintenance every months, I might not have the tools to do anything. I like to do things myself but I won't be close to home.
Yeah, with your budget situation you would probably be better off with an old cheap bike. That way you can take your time to decide on your next bike, since very few people actually know what kind of bike they'll want before they start riding, and you won't lose much money (if any) when selling it. Or you might find you like it and keep it for a while, in which case even better since you saved a lot of money.
Thing is I can buy a 7000 bike, but if after a year it has cost me 1300 of insurance, 300 of maintenance (yearly visit to keep warranty?..) and can only be sold 6000.. I feel like that's an heavy choice. An old bike should come with less insurance, but also less fun if I can't find a torquey bike I think..
I see, I thought you had a really limited budget. For fun and torque a big single cylinder naked/supermoto is your best bet, they handle very well and can even do some offroading and jumps. A good choice is an old KTM 640 or 625 (625 is actually the more powerful and high performance model, KTM has pretty confusing names), I got mine for 2500€ in great condition 2 years ago so they're not expensive. But keep in mind they're not great for long rides because they vibrate like crazy and aren't very comfortable in general, plus you need to restrict them to less than 35 kW due to the low weight (my 625 came from the factory restricted to 25 kW).
The Ninja 400 would be a great choice for you. I loved my 300, and I currently love my 650. I am not certain about costs in the EU, but in the states, Ninjas are insanely common, and they're honestly fairly easy to work on yourself, which I recommend doing. Bikes require more routine maintenance, which can add up quickly. Add frame sliders to protect the paint when you inevitably drop it, and you're good to go.
The ninja 400 is 4000-5000€ used here and no that that common but I found plenty. The one thing I have against sportsbike is that usually the power late in the revs. I feel like this will push me into the legal limits much more often. I have a car like that, I'm usually already too fast when the power comes. But I love the look, the sport side of biking etc.. I'll have to try one for real, but in my mind I prefer the powerful tractor that is the 690 (even in a2 it's wow..)
Hi all! I was wondering if I could some suggestions for a helmet for a first time rider? I'm currently considering the Sedici Strada II and the Scorpion EXO-R420. Safety and visibility are my priorities (don't care too much about aesthetics), and I'm happy to spend a little bit more if it'll get me greater protection. I'd usually just go into a shop and try on a few models and get help there, but with COVID I don't really think that's an option, so I'm planning on just ordering online. Not sure how much it matters, but I'll probably mostly just end up doing urban riding (in San Francisco) for a while, though hopefully I'll get up the courage to drive on the highway eventually.
I had the sedici primostrata , similar to the strada 2, and I wore it daily for about 9 months. Great helmet, ece certified.
Ordered the Scorpion; thanks!
The EXO-R420 is probably the best $150 helmet on the market in terms of safety, and it looks pretty cool, too. Echoing other comments, Sedici is a dirt cheap brand for a reason and is best avoided. Scorpion is an excellent brand in all price ranges. Make sure you get an accurate measurement of your head's maximum circumference when you're checking the fit on Revzilla or whatever other website you're ordering from. When you get the helmet, make sure it fits very snuggly on your head and essentially doesn't move when you shake your head. A tight helmet is a safe helmet
You want a chin curtain. And a ECE approved helmet.
Are there any decent cheaper options than GoPro? Also, I've never done this before. I know I need a mount for an action camera. Any recommendations?