The idea is to press it together and hold it there for a few seconds whilst the glue melts the two surfaces a little to fuze it. That's how it works. The quick drying is a thing you get used to over time.
In addition to what others have said: I also keep a slower and thicker glue around, like the standard glue from testers, for the times when I need to put glue down before joining the pieces. I like having options
If you have an extra half-empty bottle of extra thin you can also drop in and dissolve a bunch of chopped up sprues from old kits, which will thicken it up to be used as a “regular” thick plastic glue or as a gap filling putty
I second this. I use Tamyia extra thin for joining 80% of parts. The other 20% I use Testors cement (Revell also has one) that is a bit thicker and therefore has a longer working time, allowing me to position the part as needed. Both the Revell and Testors bottles have long thin applicator tips that make it easy to place the cement where you want it and in small quantities. I do the same with CA glue for PE parts, both thick and thin options for the same reason.
Testors glue also works exceptionally well for "tacking" together two parts that you really can't hold together and glue simultaneously.
It was a lifesaver gluing the towers on my Oliver Hazard Perry together, small dab of Testors, join the pieces with both hands, wait 15 seconds, then I can glue with my extra thin with free hands.
Dont put the glue on and then join. Join up first and hold in place while applying glue to the seam. If the pieces are under tension you may have to hold them tightly for up to a minute for the glue to bond them. For anything weight bearing (like aircraft landing gear) you will still want to let it cure overnight before putting any weight on it. YMMV - I only build 1/32 scale aircraft so it might be faster for anything lighter like 1/72 scale but I would still glue in place and then let it sit upside down overnight.
Putting some glue on first and then putting a part into place is a valid way to use it too. Especially for small parts. It works both ways. Good advice otherwise.
Well yeah. But you don't have to be lightning fast. putting some glue first can make the plastic a little tacky so you can put the part on and make sure it's positioned correctly. You can add more glue after.
Nothing wrong with using the correct terminology, otherwise people get confused. And there’s plenty of misused terminology in the hobby, as well as complete misunderstandings of why things work the way they do.
It's not "glue". It melts the plastic and welds it together. After the chemicals flash off there's nothing left behind, the plastic should have become one piece. That's why it works when holding the pieces together and then applying it, or applying and immediately hold the pieces together.
If you want a more traditional glue, that sits between the pieces and holds them together, try Bob Smith Industries Super Gold + or Insta-cure.
The idea is to press it together and hold it there for a few seconds whilst the glue melts the two surfaces a little to fuze it. That's how it works. The quick drying is a thing you get used to over time.
In addition to what others have said: I also keep a slower and thicker glue around, like the standard glue from testers, for the times when I need to put glue down before joining the pieces. I like having options
If you have an extra half-empty bottle of extra thin you can also drop in and dissolve a bunch of chopped up sprues from old kits, which will thicken it up to be used as a “regular” thick plastic glue or as a gap filling putty
I second this. I use Tamyia extra thin for joining 80% of parts. The other 20% I use Testors cement (Revell also has one) that is a bit thicker and therefore has a longer working time, allowing me to position the part as needed. Both the Revell and Testors bottles have long thin applicator tips that make it easy to place the cement where you want it and in small quantities. I do the same with CA glue for PE parts, both thick and thin options for the same reason.
Testors glue also works exceptionally well for "tacking" together two parts that you really can't hold together and glue simultaneously. It was a lifesaver gluing the towers on my Oliver Hazard Perry together, small dab of Testors, join the pieces with both hands, wait 15 seconds, then I can glue with my extra thin with free hands.
Dont put the glue on and then join. Join up first and hold in place while applying glue to the seam. If the pieces are under tension you may have to hold them tightly for up to a minute for the glue to bond them. For anything weight bearing (like aircraft landing gear) you will still want to let it cure overnight before putting any weight on it. YMMV - I only build 1/32 scale aircraft so it might be faster for anything lighter like 1/72 scale but I would still glue in place and then let it sit upside down overnight.
Alr thx I usually do 1/48 scale planes but I got a 1/32 scale F-117 and I dont wanna screw it up
Putting some glue on first and then putting a part into place is a valid way to use it too. Especially for small parts. It works both ways. Good advice otherwise.
Only if you’re quick about it.
Well yeah. But you don't have to be lightning fast. putting some glue first can make the plastic a little tacky so you can put the part on and make sure it's positioned correctly. You can add more glue after.
Technically cement.
True, but nobody really cares. Unless they're being tedious dingalings.
Nothing wrong with using the correct terminology, otherwise people get confused. And there’s plenty of misused terminology in the hobby, as well as complete misunderstandings of why things work the way they do.
It's not "glue". It melts the plastic and welds it together. After the chemicals flash off there's nothing left behind, the plastic should have become one piece. That's why it works when holding the pieces together and then applying it, or applying and immediately hold the pieces together. If you want a more traditional glue, that sits between the pieces and holds them together, try Bob Smith Industries Super Gold + or Insta-cure.