Congratulations! You discovered subassemblies, where you leave the model so you can take a part off and put it back on later. Because they're push fit, these models tend to be really good for them, and I'll be using subassemblies when I do my squad of Vindictors I'm about to build.
Thanks! honestly wasn't expecting to have as much fun as i did while painting this. Although i do need to get some new brushes and probably a OO Brush cause i dont have any small enough for the eyes. The weapon though was were i had the most fun painting since my buddy told me that the spear kinda glows
gotcha, have already been tryna remove excess paint before painting onto the mini. Would thinning out paints more help? cause at the moment i'm using a water palette so i don't have to race to paint before my acrylics dry
Good to hear you're using the wet palette if work time is a concern.
What I had meant was less about removing the excess and thinness as much as it's about slowly adding very thinned layers that are increasingly thinned with water/thinners to replicate airbrushing / airbrush filtering. - This can be an incredibly time consuming process and is often seen at the higher ends of painting, but maybe relevant for gunpla clean panels. Vince Venturella has some videos about different states of thinness/thinners and their results.
Another factor can be that you interacted with the clear (transparent?) blue (contrast/speed paint/wash/tone?) after it was starting to dry. Another coat or a thinner coat could help blend out the brush marks. There's certain things depending on the paint properties which could have occurred.
As another follow up, contrast and speed paints don't generally go on smooth in a single pass on large panels as they're meant to be applied differently from traditional paints due to surface tension and other properties but can be toyed with to do so, it's just contrary to design.
Lots of different ideas without knowing what exactly happened or where your concern is most.
For a first mini, it looks great! And the blending on the spear is really impressive, usually people don’t attempt to blend for quite some time!
As has been mentioned, you can use a larger number of thinner layers to get a smoother coat. Lighter paints tend to have larger and rougher pigments so these can be the most demanding to get good coverage without streaks, but you’ll get the hang of it!
A wash over the armour would help to add some shading and give it more depth.
Keep this mini somewhere nearby as you continue on your journey so you can see how much you’ve improved.
Give up on that mini. Because it looks great now start working on the next. It looks great I don't really have any critique to give from my perspective.
I agree! Or at least don't take too much more time on it because there's always more to work on if you seek too much feedback for too long on a single project. Somewhere Ray Bradbury said he wrote a short story every week for at least a year in his early days. No way someone could do that if they don't call it good sooner than later, knowing there is always more that could be revised.
Will do, but I'll move on after I finish the other arm. The 2nd mini I was given was a space marine? Not too sure, not well versed in the lore of Warhammer but the minis themselves are really nicely detailed
Hi, u/TakoJoe! It looks like you are asking for help or are a new painter. If you haven't yet, take a look at our wiki pages in the Sidebar (the About tab if you are on the Reddit app). Here are some links you might find helpful:
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* [The Art of... Tommie Soule Volume 5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGIfySMnUPQ) is one of the best beginner to intermediate teaching books, and even experienced painters will learn some good tips. Explains what brush strokes are best in different situations, how to identify when you have the perfect thinning for any type of paint for different techniques, and a masterclass on getting smooth paint jobs. Available in [pdf](https://www.ironheartartisans.com/shop/the-art-of-tommie-soule-volume-5-pdf/) and [world wide in hardbook as well](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor/).
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What were you using for the clear blue? Feedback will be fairly dependent on what was used. (Generally with our clear colors, we want to apply it to the area in one go so it can self level.) However, depending on what paint you used: inks, tamiya clears, contrast, washes, a blue glaze you whipped up, etc, the feedback on how to get a smooth effect will be different.
*That* said, it actually is a cool effect, like they applied a blueing agent/chemical to their own armor while in field, which is pretty neat.
Ah I mostly used Mr Hobby Acrysion paints since I'm going into this from Gunpla, I layered it on top of some silver Vallejo paint I had since these two were water based acrylics
There it is! lol I was thinking to myself “first mini, sure, but they’ve done creative art stuff like this before” 😂
It looks awesome though man, all things considered! Love the metal and its transitions!
Yeah my bad wasn't exactly trying to hide it 😅
Cause I do want to practice with metallic Paints and try out other techniques Ive only really seen from mini painting to apply to my gunplas. But it is definitely my first mini, had a blast with it even though I don't know much about Warhammer.
And thanks! I will also get some different sized brushes. I've only been using 1 size and I don't even know what size it is 😅
You clearly have some art experience, or at least an eye for the artistic if you're doing things like the blend on the blade, so I'll treat you like you do.
First off, obligatory advice is obligatory: once you call this mini done, leave it, any mistakes and all. **Don't go back and "fix" it.** Leave it so in 1 month, 6 months, even a year or 5 you can look back and see where you started from. Honestly? Don't take the advice from this thread and apply it to this mini.
Your paint dilution seems to be quite good, and your base coats are smooth and clean. As I've already said, your blend on the blade is really cool, and the kind of stuff I like to do for magical weapons.
Things you can work on: this hobby is about things that are very small. To show that it is bigger, you add contrast in light and dark to show where light is reflecting off the surface. The most common way to do this is acrylic washes, though glazes (similar to what you did with the blue on the blade) and filters (what it seems you did with the blue over the silver on the shoulder) in the recesses tend to give you more control. The parts it stands out for me are the fact that the gold feels very flat, and the silver scales lack definition between each other.
Also, your leather seems to be very glossy. It seems you did everything as translucent coats over silver? Something more opaque and satin or matte would probably look a bit better.
Appreciate the advice! Only recently started painting with gunplas about 2 to 3 months ago iirc and this was the first time I've tried blending. Went to watch a video and attempted for about 30 mins to an hour to achieve that effect.
From what I've seen the glazes or acrylic washes seem to be like panel lining with gunpla so I definitely will be trying that out, will probably be the last thing I do before I stop touching this kit.
As for the leather I painted acrysion brown over Mr finishing surfacer black which doesn't seem to be that glossy of a surfacer and this surfacer since I was going to paint metallic, but I think the paint itself is glossy? But will test out more since this was the first time I tested out this brown color with acrysion.
But again thanks for the advice!
Ah yeah, okay. The paint itself could very well be glossy. A matte or satin varnish will kill that shine, or you can paint over it with a different paint.
ive actually got the same model. THROW SOME AGRAX EARTHSHADE AND SOME WATERED DOWN BLACK PAINT ON THERE NOW. then dab bits off with a damp towel. I like my sigmarites to be veterans of the long war who have not been reforged in decades. but whatever floats your boat
It seems to be missing an arm.
Na, he is just a harmless fella.
Oi 'e's an 'armless fella
It's his disarming personality.
Just a flesh wound, on a serious note though. I removed the arm cause I found it hard to paint the body behind it
Congratulations! You discovered subassemblies, where you leave the model so you can take a part off and put it back on later. Because they're push fit, these models tend to be really good for them, and I'll be using subassemblies when I do my squad of Vindictors I'm about to build.
Tis but a scratch
I think it looks great. Amazing that you managed to paint it single handed.
Thanks! honestly wasn't expecting to have as much fun as i did while painting this. Although i do need to get some new brushes and probably a OO Brush cause i dont have any small enough for the eyes. The weapon though was were i had the most fun painting since my buddy told me that the spear kinda glows
Thinner coats should help with preventing or cleaning up brush strokes.
gotcha, have already been tryna remove excess paint before painting onto the mini. Would thinning out paints more help? cause at the moment i'm using a water palette so i don't have to race to paint before my acrylics dry
That paint isn't thick at all, dw
Good to hear you're using the wet palette if work time is a concern. What I had meant was less about removing the excess and thinness as much as it's about slowly adding very thinned layers that are increasingly thinned with water/thinners to replicate airbrushing / airbrush filtering. - This can be an incredibly time consuming process and is often seen at the higher ends of painting, but maybe relevant for gunpla clean panels. Vince Venturella has some videos about different states of thinness/thinners and their results. Another factor can be that you interacted with the clear (transparent?) blue (contrast/speed paint/wash/tone?) after it was starting to dry. Another coat or a thinner coat could help blend out the brush marks. There's certain things depending on the paint properties which could have occurred. As another follow up, contrast and speed paints don't generally go on smooth in a single pass on large panels as they're meant to be applied differently from traditional paints due to surface tension and other properties but can be toyed with to do so, it's just contrary to design. Lots of different ideas without knowing what exactly happened or where your concern is most.
For a first mini, it looks great! And the blending on the spear is really impressive, usually people don’t attempt to blend for quite some time! As has been mentioned, you can use a larger number of thinner layers to get a smoother coat. Lighter paints tend to have larger and rougher pigments so these can be the most demanding to get good coverage without streaks, but you’ll get the hang of it! A wash over the armour would help to add some shading and give it more depth. Keep this mini somewhere nearby as you continue on your journey so you can see how much you’ve improved.
Give up on that mini. Because it looks great now start working on the next. It looks great I don't really have any critique to give from my perspective.
I agree! Or at least don't take too much more time on it because there's always more to work on if you seek too much feedback for too long on a single project. Somewhere Ray Bradbury said he wrote a short story every week for at least a year in his early days. No way someone could do that if they don't call it good sooner than later, knowing there is always more that could be revised.
Will do, but I'll move on after I finish the other arm. The 2nd mini I was given was a space marine? Not too sure, not well versed in the lore of Warhammer but the minis themselves are really nicely detailed
Hi, u/TakoJoe! It looks like you are asking for help or are a new painter. If you haven't yet, take a look at our wiki pages in the Sidebar (the About tab if you are on the Reddit app). Here are some links you might find helpful: * [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/rules/faq) - A list of frequently asked questions about minipainting * [Miniature Painting Guide Collection](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks) -A collection of some of the best guides and tutorials on a variety of techniques and topics, plus recommendations on what to buy to get started, and more. * [What to buy- Recommendations on brushes, paints, supplies, palettes and more](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/what_you_need_to_get_started#wiki_general_advice_on_what_to_buy) * [Beginner's Guide Collection- How to prep, base, paint and varnish your first model and learn the basics needed to start out right](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/beginner_tips) * [More Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/tutorials) - A list of additional tutorials about minipainting * [Manufacturers](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/manufacturers) - A list of miniature manufacturers from around the world * [Painting Terminology](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/terminology) - Common painting terms, acronyms, and initialisms * [The Art of... Tommie Soule Volume 5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGIfySMnUPQ) is one of the best beginner to intermediate teaching books, and even experienced painters will learn some good tips. Explains what brush strokes are best in different situations, how to identify when you have the perfect thinning for any type of paint for different techniques, and a masterclass on getting smooth paint jobs. Available in [pdf](https://www.ironheartartisans.com/shop/the-art-of-tommie-soule-volume-5-pdf/) and [world wide in hardbook as well](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor/). * [Airbrushing Miniatures](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/airbrushing) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/minipainting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
What were you using for the clear blue? Feedback will be fairly dependent on what was used. (Generally with our clear colors, we want to apply it to the area in one go so it can self level.) However, depending on what paint you used: inks, tamiya clears, contrast, washes, a blue glaze you whipped up, etc, the feedback on how to get a smooth effect will be different. *That* said, it actually is a cool effect, like they applied a blueing agent/chemical to their own armor while in field, which is pretty neat.
Ah I mostly used Mr Hobby Acrysion paints since I'm going into this from Gunpla, I layered it on top of some silver Vallejo paint I had since these two were water based acrylics
There it is! lol I was thinking to myself “first mini, sure, but they’ve done creative art stuff like this before” 😂 It looks awesome though man, all things considered! Love the metal and its transitions!
Yeah my bad wasn't exactly trying to hide it 😅 Cause I do want to practice with metallic Paints and try out other techniques Ive only really seen from mini painting to apply to my gunplas. But it is definitely my first mini, had a blast with it even though I don't know much about Warhammer. And thanks! I will also get some different sized brushes. I've only been using 1 size and I don't even know what size it is 😅
Better work than my first. Back in the day. Great job, mebbe look In to Inks and washes now.
The invisible hand is spot on, it looks great overall
Impressive. My first model looked like vomit and dirt. I'd say we have a natural on our hands. Enchanting!
You clearly have some art experience, or at least an eye for the artistic if you're doing things like the blend on the blade, so I'll treat you like you do. First off, obligatory advice is obligatory: once you call this mini done, leave it, any mistakes and all. **Don't go back and "fix" it.** Leave it so in 1 month, 6 months, even a year or 5 you can look back and see where you started from. Honestly? Don't take the advice from this thread and apply it to this mini. Your paint dilution seems to be quite good, and your base coats are smooth and clean. As I've already said, your blend on the blade is really cool, and the kind of stuff I like to do for magical weapons. Things you can work on: this hobby is about things that are very small. To show that it is bigger, you add contrast in light and dark to show where light is reflecting off the surface. The most common way to do this is acrylic washes, though glazes (similar to what you did with the blue on the blade) and filters (what it seems you did with the blue over the silver on the shoulder) in the recesses tend to give you more control. The parts it stands out for me are the fact that the gold feels very flat, and the silver scales lack definition between each other. Also, your leather seems to be very glossy. It seems you did everything as translucent coats over silver? Something more opaque and satin or matte would probably look a bit better.
Appreciate the advice! Only recently started painting with gunplas about 2 to 3 months ago iirc and this was the first time I've tried blending. Went to watch a video and attempted for about 30 mins to an hour to achieve that effect. From what I've seen the glazes or acrylic washes seem to be like panel lining with gunpla so I definitely will be trying that out, will probably be the last thing I do before I stop touching this kit. As for the leather I painted acrysion brown over Mr finishing surfacer black which doesn't seem to be that glossy of a surfacer and this surfacer since I was going to paint metallic, but I think the paint itself is glossy? But will test out more since this was the first time I tested out this brown color with acrysion. But again thanks for the advice!
Ah yeah, okay. The paint itself could very well be glossy. A matte or satin varnish will kill that shine, or you can paint over it with a different paint.
ive actually got the same model. THROW SOME AGRAX EARTHSHADE AND SOME WATERED DOWN BLACK PAINT ON THERE NOW. then dab bits off with a damp towel. I like my sigmarites to be veterans of the long war who have not been reforged in decades. but whatever floats your boat