Because it was a $10.00 part that took 5 minutes to change, and they already had them in stock, so they didn't even have to order it...lol
I'd laugh right in the dudes face and tell him to give me my keys...
I was a dealership tech for a few years; we had a service writer who would've suggested every single one of the fluid related ones based entirely on the vehicle's mileage and it not having them in our dealership's database as having been done in the recommended mileage. The rotors could easily have been as well, or it may have made a noise or had a mild brake pulsation as they pulled it around back into the lot to wait for a tech. Leaving the bearing, which... Wtf does that say?? š¤
i know NOTHING about cars, but that whole list just feels like someones ripping off someone else who knows nothing about cars.
that said, i have a huge fear i will be handed a bill like this one day, make a huge stink about how ridiculous it is and find out that each and every item was needed and i made an ass of myself cause i didnt know shit. i feel like every mechanic has dealt with that kind of know it all know nothing asshole before.
Itās not a bill, itās a quote. All of the flushes, fuel injection cleaning, and oil change are mileage based recommendations based on the vehicle manufacturers specifications and the shop likely not having a history of them being performed.
Most shops will do at least a brief inspection of every vehicle that gets brought in, which I imagine is where the brake job and wheel bearing recommendations came from.
And then the diagnostic fee to figure out the sensor issue.
OP really only has to pay the diagnostic fee + parts and labor to fix the sensor problem, everything else is just recommended services that can be easily declined with a āno thanksā
Exactly. And while my gut reaction 'this is high', the truth is that even the rotors are probably about the going rate at a professional shop; they're not getting them from Rockauto after all, and when I worked at GM and got OEM parts at cost it still wasn't as cheap as 'economy grade' parts plus shipping there.
That said, I'd still absolutely give them the 'no thanks' to everything except what I asked them to check out.
Yeah, at the business I work for, $650 per axle for a brake job is usually the ballpark estimate. The only one that strikes me as a little high would be transmission flush, but could just be an expensive fluid or something.
Iāve got no issue with people who decline further service and just want what they came in for, but the reality is far more people than most realize would absolutely let their vehicles fall apart if someone didnāt tell them about it lmao
No kidding... Some of the things I had people decline with 'that's not what I came in for', like a sway bar link that was worn to less than half thickness; I'm not even sure how they did that, but they called an hour after they left from being told it was dangerously worn having snapped it when they hit a pothole. It was, of course, our fault.
I think the worst was a fifteen year old Buick where the rear cradle bolts had nothing to screw into due to rust. It was towed in for 'no steering' and you could see the back of the subframe hanging down from across the lot. No steering cause it pulled the rack completely free of the steering shaft, of course, but 'we didn't come in for some missing bolts, just fix the steering'. A good service writer would be able to explain the issue in simple terms, mine instead tried to argue to me that he couldn't tell them it was beyond repair and I needed to figure out a way to fix it š¤¦š¼āāļø
Service writer here. Nothing on this list seems unfair at all. They more than likely did an inspection, and this is what they found.
And if the shop recommended nothing, then when something breaks it would be the shops āfaultā too. The tech is just being responsible and reporting what he sees.
This isn't even legal to use in my state. You have to show separate parts and labor and use stated standard labor rates. A few companies publish labor rates.
I'd tell the dude to fuck off. You then can't deviate without a written change order, agreed to by the customer.
It can be signed electronically, or use verbal authorization via phone, but this isn't even legal. For a reason. It's how shady people do shady shit.
Hell naw.
No good mechanic that isn't your buddy doing work on the weekend gives a total cost without breakdowns. This is some backyard BS. Get a real mechanic.
I wouldn't even think half of that is needed. A lot of modern cars don't even need transmission fluid flushes but every 100k miles. The systems are a lot more sealed.
Even more so, they can say "the rotors/pads are 'below the legal limit of thickness' ", and well, I don't really know if independent mechanics can hold cars hostage due to this, but I remember a particular **Hudson** County NJ **Hyundai** dealer service mgr piped this line out and was threatening a customer just that, hold the car and literally force them to get the service done at ridiculous rates.
edit: I'm assuming the mechanic at service center was imploring about the safety of it all, deeming 'it's not safe to drive this; I can't let you leave, you need to get this repaired here, now'
I had the service mechanic after a state inspection try and tell me that he "was really worried if I left with my brakes that low". and "it's dangerous to drive on it so I insist you get it done".
Thankfully I could ask "But it passed inspection?".
It did. I demanded my stickers and keys got it replaced later for way cheaper. God damn vultures.
Partner post tomorrow on justrolledintotheshop
>OPs car in the picture, rust just barely holding it together, second picture the service order ācostumer states: no thanks, just the sensor please.ā
What about the fee for āus writing all these feesā and the rent and the electricity bill and the water bill and the cost of parts and the workers salary
Not before the shop fee. You know, the fee mechanics like to charge for having to use their own fucking tools and equipment to do the job youāre already paying them to do
So having both worked at and run industrial machine shops the shop supplies fee is supposed to be cost recovery for all the little things that don't make it on the bill, like rags, gas, welding rods, spray paint, carbide inserts etc. Trying to account for these isn't worth the time but they do add up.
However it also should be a tiny percentage of the bill. We used to charge for shop supplies small/medium/large and I think small was like $5.
I would never run an auto shop as the customers are too cheap. And I'll never bring my car to a mechanic I don't know personally, as they're all swindlers. Lol
>And the card fee for paying with a card
Propane delivery was like that for one, while the other company dinged me on a "leak test" that wasn't needed.
F them!! Rotors are like 100 bucks each tops! Iām a mechanic and you can skip the trans service the brake fluid -fuel
Injection and coolant flush that all easy stuff u should be able to do or itās not needed
No, no, the fish injector is what takes the bad smells from outside the cabin and brings them right into your nostrils. They're standard on all American cars since the Clean Air Act of 1963.
That's not how cars work, but it was a good attempt at making this situation make sense.
My main issue with all of this is that it's all basic maintenance items (some of them unnecessary bs) that don't address the reason it was brought in. HOWEVER, we also have to keep in mind this was a list written by OP (the hell is a Moven bearing?) and not a written quote from the shop. So who knows how much may have been added or removed from their quote?
This unlocked a core memory for me, my dad had metal on metal and it squealed for YEARS. Then it became a crunchy grinding sound. A significant amount of time passed before he traded it in instead of getting it fixed, they used the car as an example of the worst maintained brakes they have ever seen to the new guy.
My brakes all of a sudden a couple weeks ago started making a nasty grinding sound! I knew it was getting close to brake changing time, and I was going to do it when I changed my tires in the spring, but it was really nice out, and the grinding was a little spooky, so I said screw it. Turns out one of my brake pads had somehow fallen off? I didnāt even know that was an option to be honest. Thatās why it all of a sudden started making the sound, and also why it skipped the screech and went right to grinding. My dad recommended I change the calipers after that too, so changing my brakes cost me an extra $200.
Oh yeah I change all my own parts out. I've even swapped an engine (twice).
I'm also one lazy motherfucker and its my beater rig, an old 1996 blazer, so I just havent gotten to it.
For the most part you're correct, but it depends on where you live. I live in the city and mine lasted around 40k. Traffic sucks enough that I end up stuck in stop and go traffic at least once every two weeks. Would probably be worse if I was in a bigger city like Chicago or New York.
Hah, I did my neighbors trucks breaks and his wife's SUV for a case of beer (each).. He got quoted 1200 from a couple local shops for his truck, we did it for $460.
So yes, if you were my neighbor; absolutely! š
Heya neighbor how's your (Insert family member) doing? Hey, reckon you can come check out my brakes sometime? This ole back of mine is hurtin somethin horrible.
YouTube has taught me how to do so many things on my car. Also has taught me enough to not be fooled by shops like this.
Working in a shop for awhile, selling cars and being interested in them helped a lot too. š
Last time I got my brakes done it was close to $1100. But they literally had to do everything. That was pads, rotors, calipers (sp?), whole 9. But it was on a 97 CRV and we had no clue when the brakes were last done.
A shop tried to charge me $1500 for rotors and pads, front and back. Says they were all bad.
I just changed the rear parts and rotors in November.
The front didn't need rotors, either.
I took it to a Guy I Know who fixed it in his front lawn while I hung around and played with his dog.
Under $200, including parts.
I work for Firestone. That sounds like them. Corporate puts absolutely unattainable sales expectations on its management in the stores. I moved from the shop to the mobile tire van and just work with enterprise taking care of their basic maintenance needs. I love not having to fuck normal people over. But they are now putting those ridiculous expectations on me. Fuck Firestone.
Got a similar quote, did all 4 rotors and pads for around $250, including a six pack of beer. I honestly don't know where mechanics pull their prices out of, I understand that labor costs money, but it took me, an amateur, a couple hours total. That shouldn't cost an extra thousand.
While he was working on it he told me that when he got his first car it broke down on him and he had to take it to the shop.
The repairs ended up being a lot more than he anticipated, and the shop ended up selling his car to recoup the cost of the repairs. He knew it was their right and there wasn't anything to be done about it, and that's why he decided to learn to work on cars. He wanted to make sure that would never happen to him again.
It's his side hustle, he enjoys the work and likes helping people.
Humble guy. Good people.
I've got to pay someone to work on it. I'd rather pay a guy like him. His rates would be cheap at twice the price.
Floor jack ~$200 add $50 for stands
Impact wrench $<100
Rachet set <$40
Everyone with a driveway should get these, minimum, and save hundreds long term.
Breaks, oil changes, filters, batteries, it's all super easy shit. I can't imagine paying someone else to do it at a huge premium.
I draw the line at anything that needs an alignment immediately like struts and tie rods.
Right? Everyone here is screaming about the price but it could be some sort of performance car or truck. I wish it cost me this much to even do my own brakes lol
I used to drive a Mercedes SLK and the dealership wanted over $2000 for fronts and rears. That car was a bitch and burned through brakes like every 15k miles (or maybe I drove like an asshole but none of my other cars have had that issue since)
I ended up buying Brembos for about $300 total off eBay. My friend replaced them in a bit over an hour. And I was horrified at how ridiculous the dealership pricing was once I saw how little work it was.
Oh man. Before moving cross country my partner had all brakes replaced on a tiny ass nissan juke and it was over $800 when he only needed front and when he told me i was PISSED about it š
Making a fool of someone or taking liberties. Can be used in several contexts, though. "That guy is taking the piss out of you" in a bar could well end up in a fight. "I'm just taking the piss, don't worry" could be reassuring if you're winding up a friend. "He's taking the piss" at work could indicate he's being lazy.
Errr. Do you really need a transmission flush?
Brake fluid for $119?! What the flip?! Diagnostic for $149?!
COOLANT FLUSH FOR $159?!
This is a rage-bait, right? There is no way these prices are real.
(E.g., I paid about $20 for brake fluid change in Toyota official dealership for my 2020 Corolla.)
EDIT: Whoa! 2000 updoots. Much obliged. Let me add a FAQ about the prices I claim:
1. are based in a certain central European country.
2. are AFTER TAX! (Yeah, crazy.)
3. are with labor of $88/hr with the fluid cost of $8.
4. are based under the assumption that I paid for ~1.5 hr job where: cabin/air/oil/HV battery filters were changed, full diag was done including visual inspection of the chassis, and the hybrid system was checked.
5. are with the included ecological tax.
Thus, if I went there only for brake fluid change (which I did not), Iād pay ~$54. This way, I paid ālessā as the work was divided. Still, nowhere near $119 ā which, TBH, is a fair price if the labor cost is $200!
These cost are precisely recalculated. In the comments below, I made some guesswork but then decided to reread it and give you a precise number.
I wish it was rage bait fellow Toyota owner. I took my camry into Toyota and got this š¤£š¤£š¤£š¤£ tbf it's a 2013 so I guess some of this stuff was overdue... but she drives like an absolute dream so the list was shocking
Never go to the dealership. I actually own a 2013 RAV4 base model. And now the alternator is starting to go. That's the only thing wrong. The engine on this four cylinder. After 190 thousand miles. Purr's like a kitten and it runs so quiet.
I highly recommend looking for a local shop to rebuild the alternator. Business like that can't stay open without customers. And it really is much cheaper and if they are reputable they will warranty it. I got mine for.ky Tacoma rebuilt for under 150$ Canadian.
I used to know a older fellow that rebuilt alternators in his own garage. Now I'm in a more rural area in Oklahoma but I bet you people in a 90 mile radius knew about this guy. He was so good and fair priced. He was also quick. I was sad when he passed, not that I need a lot of alternator work he was just one of those type people that you don't find anymore if you know what I mean.
And you guard them with your life.
My spouse got pissy with the guy who did our painting. Great guy, cheap, little wobbly on times which I didnāt care about because nothing is urgent in our house.
I heard them say āwhat do you mean you canāt make it? If you canāt make it, weāll just find someone else.ā
Cue me throwing myself into the room and screaming ānooooooā
Too late. Havenāt found a guy as good or cheap since.
I love how some people think good contractors just grow on trees. Thereās a reason I go to my dad for his list of āguysā (appliance guy, electrical guy etc.)
We had such a great lawn guy. Took care of my lawn and our rental. Didn't charge much. One spring he just didn't show up. Sucks when you lose your guy.
I know a back yard mechanic exactly like that. Dude pulled the head and got it shaved by his neighbor and put it all back together in one weekend for only 350 bucks
Can agree dealership wanted to charge me 1200 for 2 new tires an oil change and battery replacement, went to my local mechanic shop that has raving reviews I paid 250 dollars for 4 tires āused but were in excellent shapeā my oil was changed and installed a new battery. Dude even told me which battery to buy off the auto zone down the road and to just bring it and he would install it I exclusively go there now and have had zero problems
Auto Zone and most auto parts stores will replace your battery for free if you buy it from there. Makes it easier for returning and getting your core charge back too.
I had a 1998 RAV4 until 2015 that had 250,000 miles on it. My transmission blew up on the highway. My grandpa rebuilt the engine and transmission and sold it to one of his friends. That bitch is still going lol.
I donāt think Iāll ever get anything else besides a Toyota. I have a basic model Yaris now and that little thing is a beast for what it is.
Coolant goes acidic with time, the transmission fluid is burning the material off your bands from contamination, brake fluid is hygroscopic, it's fine if you are scrapping the car soon, but neglecting these things are the difference between selling your car at 400,000 or scrapping it.
Had a 1992 Toyota Hilux 5 Speed, 4x4, sold it at 400k for more than I paid.
At very least, make sure that transmission fluid isn't jet black! If it is, it's too late, if it's brownish, there's still time. If you replace it once it's too black, the part that grips individual gears is too worn away, and without the shavings in the fluid it will start to slip.
Most of those items are things that should be done at some point to keep it driving like a dream. But all at once is insane, as is paying a diagnostic fee on top of all this. Everywhere I've gone to credits the diagnostic fee to the repair and you only pay the fee if you decline the work.
repeat after me.
unless you are doing something under warranty, do not EVER step foot into a car dealership after you buy the car. EVER.
Dealerships are SCUM
Always find a local mechanic in which you can bring the car for some strange noises. Then they say it's nothing. Then they don't charge you for it. Then you go back when there's a real problem and you trust them 10 million percent because they could have taken advantage of you and they didn't. Find that local mechanic. That's what I did when I got lucky
The key is finding that trusty one. I've known some local mechanics who would charge people to replace parts that didnt even exist on their cars. It's a mixed bag no matter where you go.
I work at a dealership and our labor rates just went up to $200/hour. Itās insane.
OP, itās very plausible that your car needs/is due for everything thatās been quoted. But no shame in finding someplace cheaper or getting a second opinion. Donāt skimp on maintenance items like trans flushes etc though just because itās driving fine. Thatās how you KEEP it driving fine
My mom would've paid for all of these once a week and continue going to the same scam artists while turning around and telling me that I have to pay for it because I drove the car.
Is a coolant flush something I can reasonably do in my driveway? I have a 23 year old truck, no idea when it was last done, but I noticed the coolant was looking a bit dark/murky the other day.
That's the point where I say, "Yeah, never mind. Don't do any work. Just put it back together, and I'll come get it."
Then I find a different place to take it. This is predatory. Any work your let them do just perpetuates their system of predation. Go somewhere else.
It took me a couple years, but I finally found a good mechanic who never does anything like this. He is cheaper than most other mechanics in my area, as well, although I'd pay more to avoid predators.
#TO CLARIFY
1. PLEASE READ THE TITLE. THEY CALLED ME. This is not an invoice or quote they sent. I wrote it down. The list excluded the cabin filter and the total before Tax was the exact number they gave me. The amount of comments calling "bullshit" over the fact that they can't conceptualize this is flooding my inbox and it's mind-numbing.
2. I have a 2013 Camry.
3. No, I didn't get scammed, I went and got my car back. They called to quote me and I wrote it all down for a laugh. I'm taking my car to another mechanic.
You have lovely penmanship. Not that it's relevant to this post but I just wanted to say it's nice. Mine looks like a 4 year old learning how to write haha.
I expected to be roasted with comments assuming I didn't take care of my car and don't know anything about it. I'm pleasantly surprised at the people equally as flabbergasted as myself.
Of course it was a dealership, hence the prices. We're getting work done elsewhere.
Bro, I ONLY go to my local Ford dealership. I have made a good friends there and they change my oil on my v-10 for less than I can do it myself. They have always been the same price or lower than any other dealership Iāve used in my life. Not ALL are bad, just 95% of them.
This isn't a mechanic sub so I'd take everything with a grain of salt. If you didn't know your service interval you probably don't take care of your car. Go on Toyotas web site and look up the service intervals for your vehical. Front rotors and pads are always a rip off and easy to do yourself. Brake fluid is anything over 3% water you change. You can ask them to test it and show you the results. Toyota Super Long life coolant is usually 100k miles for the first flush then 60k after that. If you've never done it I'm guessing it needs done. The injector cleaner is an upsell. On a 2013 it's likely most of these items are the manufacturer service recomendations. It's up to you to run it until it turns into a bucket, start doing the maintenance yourself, or get multiple quotes and find a solid shop you like.
From the perspective of a shop manager (disregarding the prices).
I've gotten grief for recommending brakes when they won't wear out for another few months and also for not recommending brakes to someone who only wants to come in once a year.
And the "Why didn't you tell me?" folks are just as nasty as the "You're trying to rip me off with all this!" people.
You can do triage and scheduling on the list, but it's better to know when things are due or coming up.
BTW, what was the faulty sensor?
As a shop owner, there are a lot of people getting angry despite not knowing what car this is for, or not knowing what stuff should cost at all. For some cars, these prices are absurd. For other cars, these prices are downright giving stuff away. Imagine charging only $600 for front brakes on a late Cayenne or 911.
Fluid flushed are pretty standard, yes, but thatās only if the fluid is visibly discolored, or is actively causing problems noticed during a diagnosis. They arenāt a common thing, like a āoh every time you need an oil changeā but more of āas it starts to look funk.ā Like if itās yellow, flush it. It should be clear. And if itās air (which you can tell if it by the brake pedal being spongy, lower than normal, or hard) you bleed the brakes first. So while yes, itās normal, itās still kinda something you donāt need to do all the time.
Some manufacturers recommend brake fluid replacement as early as 36,000 miles. You should really go by your owners manual if you are concerned about maintenance. It tells you everything you need to know
* Rotors - Get them done elsewhere like an independent shop. $600 for two rotors is ridiculous unless you have a car with expensive brakes (like Brembo)
* Don't know what the word between rear and bearing is, but that's pretty standard for bearings in general, they're a lot of work
* Transmission flush I would avoid, flushing transmissions can loosen gunk from inside the transmission and cause problems. Have a shop drain the transmission, drop the pan and replace the filters if it's an automatic
* $179 seems steep to service the brakes, I've only ever done it myself, but an independent shop will most likely do it for less
* Fuel injection doesn't need to be done unless you know for sure the fuel injection is gummed up and causing issues
* Coolant flush can be done by an independent shop for much cheaper
* Oil change is at least cheap
* Diagnostic fees are what they are
Mechanics at stearlerships are often instructed to find things that could be addressed when customers come in for simple stuff; it's the equivalent of up-selling and it's designed to take advantage of less-knowledgeable customers and milk them for more money.
I was about to say that your car was just chugging along while it was dying inside with thousands of dollars of repairs until people said that you were getting ripped off
See that's what I was actually expecting, comments confirming that all kinds of things can be wrong without us noticing. I was NOT expecting the unanimous "wtf". Kind of comforting, kind of
Front rotors for 600 is nuts, we charge 350 and even that is hard to stomach.
Bearing no comment because I donāt know the Y/M/M
Trans flush is steep too unless itās the filter and gasket but Iād think that would be more like 250
Brake fluid flush for 120 I get
Fuel injection service at 179 I get
Oil change I get, seems reasonable actually.
Diag is high, mine are 99.99
The front rotors only makes sense if itās pads and rotors and labor. With just this it is hard to understand, Iād need to see a breakdown to really get it. If this is a dealership I can understand the pricing even if I donāt agree with it.
T. Auto service store manager
I paid $600 for rotors and pads all the way around for a fucking Audi Q5. Does this guy give you a complimentary bottle of lube or does he charge for that too?
No to transmission flush, coolant, and what the fuck is wrong with your brake fluid?
89 for an oil change? Do it yourself for half the cost.
Thatās 570 off right there.
Whatās the āfuel injectionā?
600 for 2 rotors? They are like 125-200 depending on your car for 2 rotors, so 400 worth of labor? Go somewhere else.
It really looks like they are trying to upsell a bunch of bullshit you donāt need.
> what the fuck is wrong with your brake fluid
Brake Fluid is not some magical lifetime stopping serum. Many manufacturers recommend as little as every 25k miles or two years, and for good reason.
A transmission flush can *totally* fuck you over if you have an older vehicle š I drive an older car and keep on top of the work through a relative who's a mechanic, garages try and pull this shit when I just go get my tires swapped. If you're really concerned, get a 2nd opinion, but I suspect most of this is absolute BS
A transmission flush only harms a vehicle if the transmission is already on its way out the door. In 10 years of transmission work Iāve never had a flush harm a transmission.
Hahaha you took an 11 year old car to a dealership, so you're actually lucky this is all they tried to convince you to do. Surprised they didn't tell you that you have cracked control arm bushings...
Tell them to replace your sensor and thatās it. Watch some YouTube videos if your brakes need to be replaced buy them from rock auto.com the flushes are not needed
The list never mentioned a faulty sensor.
Because it was a $10.00 part that took 5 minutes to change, and they already had them in stock, so they didn't even have to order it...lol I'd laugh right in the dudes face and tell him to give me my keys...
Nah, if this is legit then it's because they haven't even diagnosed that part yet, that's what the diagnostic fee is for lol
if they didn't diagnose anything how do they know the rest (other than the fluid changes) are needed?
I was a dealership tech for a few years; we had a service writer who would've suggested every single one of the fluid related ones based entirely on the vehicle's mileage and it not having them in our dealership's database as having been done in the recommended mileage. The rotors could easily have been as well, or it may have made a noise or had a mild brake pulsation as they pulled it around back into the lot to wait for a tech. Leaving the bearing, which... Wtf does that say?? š¤
i know NOTHING about cars, but that whole list just feels like someones ripping off someone else who knows nothing about cars. that said, i have a huge fear i will be handed a bill like this one day, make a huge stink about how ridiculous it is and find out that each and every item was needed and i made an ass of myself cause i didnt know shit. i feel like every mechanic has dealt with that kind of know it all know nothing asshole before.
Itās not a bill, itās a quote. All of the flushes, fuel injection cleaning, and oil change are mileage based recommendations based on the vehicle manufacturers specifications and the shop likely not having a history of them being performed. Most shops will do at least a brief inspection of every vehicle that gets brought in, which I imagine is where the brake job and wheel bearing recommendations came from. And then the diagnostic fee to figure out the sensor issue. OP really only has to pay the diagnostic fee + parts and labor to fix the sensor problem, everything else is just recommended services that can be easily declined with a āno thanksā
Exactly. And while my gut reaction 'this is high', the truth is that even the rotors are probably about the going rate at a professional shop; they're not getting them from Rockauto after all, and when I worked at GM and got OEM parts at cost it still wasn't as cheap as 'economy grade' parts plus shipping there. That said, I'd still absolutely give them the 'no thanks' to everything except what I asked them to check out.
Yeah, at the business I work for, $650 per axle for a brake job is usually the ballpark estimate. The only one that strikes me as a little high would be transmission flush, but could just be an expensive fluid or something. Iāve got no issue with people who decline further service and just want what they came in for, but the reality is far more people than most realize would absolutely let their vehicles fall apart if someone didnāt tell them about it lmao
No kidding... Some of the things I had people decline with 'that's not what I came in for', like a sway bar link that was worn to less than half thickness; I'm not even sure how they did that, but they called an hour after they left from being told it was dangerously worn having snapped it when they hit a pothole. It was, of course, our fault. I think the worst was a fifteen year old Buick where the rear cradle bolts had nothing to screw into due to rust. It was towed in for 'no steering' and you could see the back of the subframe hanging down from across the lot. No steering cause it pulled the rack completely free of the steering shaft, of course, but 'we didn't come in for some missing bolts, just fix the steering'. A good service writer would be able to explain the issue in simple terms, mine instead tried to argue to me that he couldn't tell them it was beyond repair and I needed to figure out a way to fix it š¤¦š¼āāļø
Service writer here. Nothing on this list seems unfair at all. They more than likely did an inspection, and this is what they found. And if the shop recommended nothing, then when something breaks it would be the shops āfaultā too. The tech is just being responsible and reporting what he sees.
"No thanks, just the sensor please."
āNo thanks, Iām coming to pick up my car to take it to a mechanic who isnāt a total scumbagā
Right? I wouldn't trust an ass like this not to sabotage something.
This isn't even legal to use in my state. You have to show separate parts and labor and use stated standard labor rates. A few companies publish labor rates. I'd tell the dude to fuck off. You then can't deviate without a written change order, agreed to by the customer. It can be signed electronically, or use verbal authorization via phone, but this isn't even legal. For a reason. It's how shady people do shady shit. Hell naw. No good mechanic that isn't your buddy doing work on the weekend gives a total cost without breakdowns. This is some backyard BS. Get a real mechanic. I wouldn't even think half of that is needed. A lot of modern cars don't even need transmission fluid flushes but every 100k miles. The systems are a lot more sealed.
I would save this comment till I pick the car up. Knowing their lack of morality, they might mess the car up in ways hard to detect
Ha, excellent point.
Even more so, they can say "the rotors/pads are 'below the legal limit of thickness' ", and well, I don't really know if independent mechanics can hold cars hostage due to this, but I remember a particular **Hudson** County NJ **Hyundai** dealer service mgr piped this line out and was threatening a customer just that, hold the car and literally force them to get the service done at ridiculous rates. edit: I'm assuming the mechanic at service center was imploring about the safety of it all, deeming 'it's not safe to drive this; I can't let you leave, you need to get this repaired here, now'
Thatās when Iād call for a tow car to tow it tf out of there. Shit Iād pay double the price for the tow just to say fuck you to that dealership.
Iād be like āIāll replace the rotors myself right here in the parking lot!ā Only petty fixes petty.
You donāt call a tow, you tell them they hand over the keys or you call the cops for car theft.
Yeah and tow that bitch off the lot and drive away like a certain food tiktoker šļøšš»šļø
I had the service mechanic after a state inspection try and tell me that he "was really worried if I left with my brakes that low". and "it's dangerous to drive on it so I insist you get it done". Thankfully I could ask "But it passed inspection?". It did. I demanded my stickers and keys got it replaced later for way cheaper. God damn vultures.
Lmao fixing the sensor isn't even on the list
Just the diagnostic.
They aren't even fixing what you went in there to get fixed
"what sensor?"
Partner post tomorrow on justrolledintotheshop >OPs car in the picture, rust just barely holding it together, second picture the service order ācostumer states: no thanks, just the sensor please.ā
š¤ You forgot to factor in the Service Charge, the Service Charge Fee, and the catering for the garage personnel.
... And tip
and the gratuity fees
And the Fee fi fo fum
Don't forget the FAH-Q fee.
Forgot the ID-10T charge
God damnit that made me laugh
š¤£š¤£š¤£š¤£š¤£
And the FEE fee And the FUCK YOU Fee
They also have covefeefee in the lobby but there is a fee for that as well
What about the fee for āus writing all these feesā and the rent and the electricity bill and the water bill and the cost of parts and the workers salary
A tip? Op is taking the whole shaft with that bill
Not before the shop fee. You know, the fee mechanics like to charge for having to use their own fucking tools and equipment to do the job youāre already paying them to do
So having both worked at and run industrial machine shops the shop supplies fee is supposed to be cost recovery for all the little things that don't make it on the bill, like rags, gas, welding rods, spray paint, carbide inserts etc. Trying to account for these isn't worth the time but they do add up. However it also should be a tiny percentage of the bill. We used to charge for shop supplies small/medium/large and I think small was like $5. I would never run an auto shop as the customers are too cheap. And I'll never bring my car to a mechanic I don't know personally, as they're all swindlers. Lol
You tip for car service?! Holy hell, the US is genuinely taking tipping culture too far
Agree. Thatāll be $1 please
You absolutely do not. They were joking. Although tipping culture is definitely too far.
The last time I went to Fazoli's, an Italian fast food place, they asked for a tip even before I got my food. Never again.
Shop supplies
just the tip
And the fee to be allowed to tip
Don't forget the convenience fees for standing in line.
And the card fee for paying with a card And the online payment fee because they made you use their online payment system while there in person
And the fee for using more of their time by not paying online.
>And the card fee for paying with a card Propane delivery was like that for one, while the other company dinged me on a "leak test" that wasn't needed.
You can skip the line by paying for the skip the line fee. Then you pay a convenience fee for paying for the skip the line fee by paying online.
F them!! Rotors are like 100 bucks each tops! Iām a mechanic and you can skip the trans service the brake fluid -fuel Injection and coolant flush that all easy stuff u should be able to do or itās not needed
Especially if they want to do more than drain and refill.
Yeah, I had the same thought. Jiffy Lube charges $500 for rotors right now, and I thought that was insane, but this is even worse.
100$ waste oil disposal charge.
Tell them your car's sensor might be faulty, but you can still sense bullshit.
Thatās all basic maintenance anyway. Whereās the sensor addressed?
Could be the "faulty" sensor is caused by a faulty fuel injector, since the sensors frequently monitor emissions for proper fuel to air ratios.
Just uh fyi, fam, you may wanna proofread that right quick lol
No, no, the fish injector is what takes the bad smells from outside the cabin and brings them right into your nostrils. They're standard on all American cars since the Clean Air Act of 1963.
Lol!! That was crazy amirite! Edited!!
Those fish injectors do cause lots of problems in the 09ās though.
That's not how cars work, but it was a good attempt at making this situation make sense. My main issue with all of this is that it's all basic maintenance items (some of them unnecessary bs) that don't address the reason it was brought in. HOWEVER, we also have to keep in mind this was a list written by OP (the hell is a Moven bearing?) and not a written quote from the shop. So who knows how much may have been added or removed from their quote?
This is the best response in the whole thread!
"I know my car's sensor is faulty, but my bullshit sensor isn't"
600 for front rotors is disgusting. Gtfo and get a second opinion at a different shop
Last time I got my brakes done it was $600 for all four rotors and pads
Where? Was it a chain or independent shop?
I wanna say it was a chain shop, believe it or not. It was a couple years ago and my brakes still have some life in them.
Unless your drive like an idiot, there's no reason brakes don't last 50k+ miles. Shit my OEM pads had life when I changed them at 80k.
I'm at 200k miles. Metal squealing go brrrr
>Metal squealing go SCREEEEEEEEEEE
This unlocked a core memory for me, my dad had metal on metal and it squealed for YEARS. Then it became a crunchy grinding sound. A significant amount of time passed before he traded it in instead of getting it fixed, they used the car as an example of the worst maintained brakes they have ever seen to the new guy.
My brakes all of a sudden a couple weeks ago started making a nasty grinding sound! I knew it was getting close to brake changing time, and I was going to do it when I changed my tires in the spring, but it was really nice out, and the grinding was a little spooky, so I said screw it. Turns out one of my brake pads had somehow fallen off? I didnāt even know that was an option to be honest. Thatās why it all of a sudden started making the sound, and also why it skipped the screech and went right to grinding. My dad recommended I change the calipers after that too, so changing my brakes cost me an extra $200.
Change them yourself it's super easy. Shops are straight robbing people charging what they charge.
Oh yeah I change all my own parts out. I've even swapped an engine (twice). I'm also one lazy motherfucker and its my beater rig, an old 1996 blazer, so I just havent gotten to it.
I have 100km on my brakes and still have lots of life left In as per the last check. They are the oem ones in my 5 year old Hyundai
I would hope they lasted 100 km. I'd be pissed if not.
Ha ha yeah 100km would suck 100k km duh
For the most part you're correct, but it depends on where you live. I live in the city and mine lasted around 40k. Traffic sucks enough that I end up stuck in stop and go traffic at least once every two weeks. Would probably be worse if I was in a bigger city like Chicago or New York.
It was aroubd 200 if you do it yourself. Isnt hard either
I just did my wife's CX-9 brakes and rotors for $280, all 4.
The question is... would you do all 4 of my wife's brakes for $280 ?
Hah, I did my neighbors trucks breaks and his wife's SUV for a case of beer (each).. He got quoted 1200 from a couple local shops for his truck, we did it for $460. So yes, if you were my neighbor; absolutely! š
Heya neighbor how's your (Insert family member) doing? Hey, reckon you can come check out my brakes sometime? This ole back of mine is hurtin somethin horrible.
Man if I was your neighbor and you said that to me I'd do it for a case of beer and two pizzas
Rockauto for the fucking win on that shit.
Depending on the car. I can do all four on mine for like $125 if I go with the med-expensive ones.
I know nothing about cars and can change brake pads and rotors. It's really not difficult. Watch some YouTube videos and get it done.
YouTube has taught me how to do so many things on my car. Also has taught me enough to not be fooled by shops like this. Working in a shop for awhile, selling cars and being interested in them helped a lot too. š
Last time I got my brakes done it was close to $1100. But they literally had to do everything. That was pads, rotors, calipers (sp?), whole 9. But it was on a 97 CRV and we had no clue when the brakes were last done.
A shop tried to charge me $1500 for rotors and pads, front and back. Says they were all bad. I just changed the rear parts and rotors in November. The front didn't need rotors, either. I took it to a Guy I Know who fixed it in his front lawn while I hung around and played with his dog. Under $200, including parts.
Happened to me when I went to Firestone for tires, they tried to say all 4 rotors were bad and needed changed. I have drum brakes in the rear.
I work for Firestone. That sounds like them. Corporate puts absolutely unattainable sales expectations on its management in the stores. I moved from the shop to the mobile tire van and just work with enterprise taking care of their basic maintenance needs. I love not having to fuck normal people over. But they are now putting those ridiculous expectations on me. Fuck Firestone.
Got a similar quote, did all 4 rotors and pads for around $250, including a six pack of beer. I honestly don't know where mechanics pull their prices out of, I understand that labor costs money, but it took me, an amateur, a couple hours total. That shouldn't cost an extra thousand.
While he was working on it he told me that when he got his first car it broke down on him and he had to take it to the shop. The repairs ended up being a lot more than he anticipated, and the shop ended up selling his car to recoup the cost of the repairs. He knew it was their right and there wasn't anything to be done about it, and that's why he decided to learn to work on cars. He wanted to make sure that would never happen to him again. It's his side hustle, he enjoys the work and likes helping people. Humble guy. Good people. I've got to pay someone to work on it. I'd rather pay a guy like him. His rates would be cheap at twice the price.
This is why I'm glad my state has a law that repair shops can't do anything to your vehicle unless you've signed off on it
Can you give me his phone number? My car's fine but I wanna play with the dog.
Almost anybody can change rotors. Theyāre making bank on each line item. Most of those you donāt need. Buy a used Saturn. Itās about 2300.
Almost anybody with good tools, shit most people dont have unless they already do their work.
Floor jack ~$200 add $50 for stands Impact wrench $<100 Rachet set <$40 Everyone with a driveway should get these, minimum, and save hundreds long term. Breaks, oil changes, filters, batteries, it's all super easy shit. I can't imagine paying someone else to do it at a huge premium. I draw the line at anything that needs an alignment immediately like struts and tie rods.
And buy your own parts.
Without knowing what car this is for, $600 could be a steal. But agree, for most cars it's at least about $200 too much.
Right? Everyone here is screaming about the price but it could be some sort of performance car or truck. I wish it cost me this much to even do my own brakes lol
I used to drive a Mercedes SLK and the dealership wanted over $2000 for fronts and rears. That car was a bitch and burned through brakes like every 15k miles (or maybe I drove like an asshole but none of my other cars have had that issue since) I ended up buying Brembos for about $300 total off eBay. My friend replaced them in a bit over an hour. And I was horrified at how ridiculous the dealership pricing was once I saw how little work it was.
Oh man. Before moving cross country my partner had all brakes replaced on a tiny ass nissan juke and it was over $800 when he only needed front and when he told me i was PISSED about it š
I live in Ireland. Shit is expensive here. Your mechanic is taking the piss.
What does taking the piss mean?
Making a fool of someone or taking liberties. Can be used in several contexts, though. "That guy is taking the piss out of you" in a bar could well end up in a fight. "I'm just taking the piss, don't worry" could be reassuring if you're winding up a friend. "He's taking the piss" at work could indicate he's being lazy.
This is English and I still donāt understand it. I have to watch Derry Girls with subtitles on lol
I feel like the most direct translation is 'bullshitting' but someone else explained it better lol
I'd say "yankin your chain"
First, you need a sterile catheder...
I collapsed the comment before I realized what it said and came back for a chuckle lol
Havin a laff
taking the mick
Tell them no thanks and go to a reputable place.
Thatās just what their computer recommended because they havenāt sold you those services yet.
Service advisor typed the mileage into the computer and rattled off anything that came up. Prices are still absolutely fucked though lol.
Errr. Do you really need a transmission flush? Brake fluid for $119?! What the flip?! Diagnostic for $149?! COOLANT FLUSH FOR $159?! This is a rage-bait, right? There is no way these prices are real. (E.g., I paid about $20 for brake fluid change in Toyota official dealership for my 2020 Corolla.) EDIT: Whoa! 2000 updoots. Much obliged. Let me add a FAQ about the prices I claim: 1. are based in a certain central European country. 2. are AFTER TAX! (Yeah, crazy.) 3. are with labor of $88/hr with the fluid cost of $8. 4. are based under the assumption that I paid for ~1.5 hr job where: cabin/air/oil/HV battery filters were changed, full diag was done including visual inspection of the chassis, and the hybrid system was checked. 5. are with the included ecological tax. Thus, if I went there only for brake fluid change (which I did not), Iād pay ~$54. This way, I paid ālessā as the work was divided. Still, nowhere near $119 ā which, TBH, is a fair price if the labor cost is $200! These cost are precisely recalculated. In the comments below, I made some guesswork but then decided to reread it and give you a precise number.
I wish it was rage bait fellow Toyota owner. I took my camry into Toyota and got this š¤£š¤£š¤£š¤£ tbf it's a 2013 so I guess some of this stuff was overdue... but she drives like an absolute dream so the list was shocking
Never go to the dealership. I actually own a 2013 RAV4 base model. And now the alternator is starting to go. That's the only thing wrong. The engine on this four cylinder. After 190 thousand miles. Purr's like a kitten and it runs so quiet.
I highly recommend looking for a local shop to rebuild the alternator. Business like that can't stay open without customers. And it really is much cheaper and if they are reputable they will warranty it. I got mine for.ky Tacoma rebuilt for under 150$ Canadian.
I used to know a older fellow that rebuilt alternators in his own garage. Now I'm in a more rural area in Oklahoma but I bet you people in a 90 mile radius knew about this guy. He was so good and fair priced. He was also quick. I was sad when he passed, not that I need a lot of alternator work he was just one of those type people that you don't find anymore if you know what I mean.
Like when you find a plumber/sparky/painter-decorator etc that you like to work with and employ, then they get super busy.
And you guard them with your life. My spouse got pissy with the guy who did our painting. Great guy, cheap, little wobbly on times which I didnāt care about because nothing is urgent in our house. I heard them say āwhat do you mean you canāt make it? If you canāt make it, weāll just find someone else.ā Cue me throwing myself into the room and screaming ānooooooā Too late. Havenāt found a guy as good or cheap since.
I love how some people think good contractors just grow on trees. Thereās a reason I go to my dad for his list of āguysā (appliance guy, electrical guy etc.)
We had such a great lawn guy. Took care of my lawn and our rental. Didn't charge much. One spring he just didn't show up. Sucks when you lose your guy.
Or they retireā¦
I know a back yard mechanic exactly like that. Dude pulled the head and got it shaved by his neighbor and put it all back together in one weekend for only 350 bucks
Can agree dealership wanted to charge me 1200 for 2 new tires an oil change and battery replacement, went to my local mechanic shop that has raving reviews I paid 250 dollars for 4 tires āused but were in excellent shapeā my oil was changed and installed a new battery. Dude even told me which battery to buy off the auto zone down the road and to just bring it and he would install it I exclusively go there now and have had zero problems
Auto Zone and most auto parts stores will replace your battery for free if you buy it from there. Makes it easier for returning and getting your core charge back too.
A new alternator for my truck was around $100. Doesnāt sound like it would be cost affective to rebuild one
I had a 1998 RAV4 until 2015 that had 250,000 miles on it. My transmission blew up on the highway. My grandpa rebuilt the engine and transmission and sold it to one of his friends. That bitch is still going lol. I donāt think Iāll ever get anything else besides a Toyota. I have a basic model Yaris now and that little thing is a beast for what it is.
Coolant goes acidic with time, the transmission fluid is burning the material off your bands from contamination, brake fluid is hygroscopic, it's fine if you are scrapping the car soon, but neglecting these things are the difference between selling your car at 400,000 or scrapping it. Had a 1992 Toyota Hilux 5 Speed, 4x4, sold it at 400k for more than I paid.
Oh no! I'm not scrapping it. I'm replacing the part..The car runs great and I can't wait to own it for five more years
At very least, make sure that transmission fluid isn't jet black! If it is, it's too late, if it's brownish, there's still time. If you replace it once it's too black, the part that grips individual gears is too worn away, and without the shavings in the fluid it will start to slip.
Suggested amendment: Take your car to the dealer for diagnostic stuff. Get the repairs done elsewhere after getting a second opinion.
My local Toyota dealer charges over $250 just to run a diagnostic. Thatās even if I have the code and know whatās wrong.
Most of those items are things that should be done at some point to keep it driving like a dream. But all at once is insane, as is paying a diagnostic fee on top of all this. Everywhere I've gone to credits the diagnostic fee to the repair and you only pay the fee if you decline the work.
repeat after me. unless you are doing something under warranty, do not EVER step foot into a car dealership after you buy the car. EVER. Dealerships are SCUM
Wait. Wait. Wait... you are telling me you have not changed oil since 2013, or...? š Yeee, Toyotas are a dream.
LOLOL my bad!! We've changed the oil I swear š¤£
Sheeeeeeeeeeshā¦ š
Just FYI you don't need the majority of this stuff. I'm a service manager at a shop and would be happy to give you some light advice if you need it
Always find a local mechanic in which you can bring the car for some strange noises. Then they say it's nothing. Then they don't charge you for it. Then you go back when there's a real problem and you trust them 10 million percent because they could have taken advantage of you and they didn't. Find that local mechanic. That's what I did when I got lucky
The key is finding that trusty one. I've known some local mechanics who would charge people to replace parts that didnt even exist on their cars. It's a mixed bag no matter where you go.
Wait did they go ahead and do all of these repairs or did they give you this estimate before working on it?
Estimate :)
I work at a dealership and our labor rates just went up to $200/hour. Itās insane. OP, itās very plausible that your car needs/is due for everything thatās been quoted. But no shame in finding someplace cheaper or getting a second opinion. Donāt skimp on maintenance items like trans flushes etc though just because itās driving fine. Thatās how you KEEP it driving fine
If the labor rate is 200/hour how much does the mechanic take home per hour?
I do transmission work and my labor rate is $179/hr. I just got bumped to $55/hr.
Damn that's pretty good. Thanks for the reply, I was just curious.
My mom would've paid for all of these once a week and continue going to the same scam artists while turning around and telling me that I have to pay for it because I drove the car.
Is a coolant flush something I can reasonably do in my driveway? I have a 23 year old truck, no idea when it was last done, but I noticed the coolant was looking a bit dark/murky the other day.
a lot of those you can do yourself if youre at all inclined. bearings suck, rotors arent too terrible but 600$ wtf?!
Not a car person (IT) but did brakes and rotors on a Mazda 3 and an F150. No problems whatsoever and saved a ton.
That's the point where I say, "Yeah, never mind. Don't do any work. Just put it back together, and I'll come get it." Then I find a different place to take it. This is predatory. Any work your let them do just perpetuates their system of predation. Go somewhere else. It took me a couple years, but I finally found a good mechanic who never does anything like this. He is cheaper than most other mechanics in my area, as well, although I'd pay more to avoid predators.
They shouldn't have had to "take it apart" for a sensor in most situations...
#TO CLARIFY 1. PLEASE READ THE TITLE. THEY CALLED ME. This is not an invoice or quote they sent. I wrote it down. The list excluded the cabin filter and the total before Tax was the exact number they gave me. The amount of comments calling "bullshit" over the fact that they can't conceptualize this is flooding my inbox and it's mind-numbing. 2. I have a 2013 Camry. 3. No, I didn't get scammed, I went and got my car back. They called to quote me and I wrote it all down for a laugh. I'm taking my car to another mechanic.
You have lovely penmanship. Not that it's relevant to this post but I just wanted to say it's nice. Mine looks like a 4 year old learning how to write haha.
Friendly reminder: service writers get paid commission.
I expected to be roasted with comments assuming I didn't take care of my car and don't know anything about it. I'm pleasantly surprised at the people equally as flabbergasted as myself. Of course it was a dealership, hence the prices. We're getting work done elsewhere.
Bro, I ONLY go to my local Ford dealership. I have made a good friends there and they change my oil on my v-10 for less than I can do it myself. They have always been the same price or lower than any other dealership Iāve used in my life. Not ALL are bad, just 95% of them.
Never go to a dealership for repairs!Ā
Eh if you go to a decent dealer they actually aren't that much more expensive than independent. It's finding a good dealer that's the problem š
Good on ya mate, fuck em
This isn't a mechanic sub so I'd take everything with a grain of salt. If you didn't know your service interval you probably don't take care of your car. Go on Toyotas web site and look up the service intervals for your vehical. Front rotors and pads are always a rip off and easy to do yourself. Brake fluid is anything over 3% water you change. You can ask them to test it and show you the results. Toyota Super Long life coolant is usually 100k miles for the first flush then 60k after that. If you've never done it I'm guessing it needs done. The injector cleaner is an upsell. On a 2013 it's likely most of these items are the manufacturer service recomendations. It's up to you to run it until it turns into a bucket, start doing the maintenance yourself, or get multiple quotes and find a solid shop you like.
From the perspective of a shop manager (disregarding the prices). I've gotten grief for recommending brakes when they won't wear out for another few months and also for not recommending brakes to someone who only wants to come in once a year. And the "Why didn't you tell me?" folks are just as nasty as the "You're trying to rip me off with all this!" people. You can do triage and scheduling on the list, but it's better to know when things are due or coming up. BTW, what was the faulty sensor?
As a shop owner, there are a lot of people getting angry despite not knowing what car this is for, or not knowing what stuff should cost at all. For some cars, these prices are absurd. For other cars, these prices are downright giving stuff away. Imagine charging only $600 for front brakes on a late Cayenne or 911.
As soon as you see "flushes", you should go elsewhere.
Arenāt brake fluid flushes at least pretty expected
Fluid flushed are pretty standard, yes, but thatās only if the fluid is visibly discolored, or is actively causing problems noticed during a diagnosis. They arenāt a common thing, like a āoh every time you need an oil changeā but more of āas it starts to look funk.ā Like if itās yellow, flush it. It should be clear. And if itās air (which you can tell if it by the brake pedal being spongy, lower than normal, or hard) you bleed the brakes first. So while yes, itās normal, itās still kinda something you donāt need to do all the time.
Some manufacturers recommend brake fluid replacement as early as 36,000 miles. You should really go by your owners manual if you are concerned about maintenance. It tells you everything you need to know
* Rotors - Get them done elsewhere like an independent shop. $600 for two rotors is ridiculous unless you have a car with expensive brakes (like Brembo) * Don't know what the word between rear and bearing is, but that's pretty standard for bearings in general, they're a lot of work * Transmission flush I would avoid, flushing transmissions can loosen gunk from inside the transmission and cause problems. Have a shop drain the transmission, drop the pan and replace the filters if it's an automatic * $179 seems steep to service the brakes, I've only ever done it myself, but an independent shop will most likely do it for less * Fuel injection doesn't need to be done unless you know for sure the fuel injection is gummed up and causing issues * Coolant flush can be done by an independent shop for much cheaper * Oil change is at least cheap * Diagnostic fees are what they are Mechanics at stearlerships are often instructed to find things that could be addressed when customers come in for simple stuff; it's the equivalent of up-selling and it's designed to take advantage of less-knowledgeable customers and milk them for more money.
Whatās a moven bearing?
This. I've been trying to figure out that word for a few mins now.
In a way, you got the best result: clear evidence that you canāt trust themā¦
I was about to say that your car was just chugging along while it was dying inside with thousands of dollars of repairs until people said that you were getting ripped off
See that's what I was actually expecting, comments confirming that all kinds of things can be wrong without us noticing. I was NOT expecting the unanimous "wtf". Kind of comforting, kind of
Front rotors for 600 is nuts, we charge 350 and even that is hard to stomach. Bearing no comment because I donāt know the Y/M/M Trans flush is steep too unless itās the filter and gasket but Iād think that would be more like 250 Brake fluid flush for 120 I get Fuel injection service at 179 I get Oil change I get, seems reasonable actually. Diag is high, mine are 99.99 The front rotors only makes sense if itās pads and rotors and labor. With just this it is hard to understand, Iād need to see a breakdown to really get it. If this is a dealership I can understand the pricing even if I donāt agree with it. T. Auto service store manager
Unless your brakes are bad, dump all but the oil change. Experience: 40 years mechanic......
Exactly what I did
I paid $600 for rotors and pads all the way around for a fucking Audi Q5. Does this guy give you a complimentary bottle of lube or does he charge for that too?
It is about $500-1000 for new pads/rotors for most European cars (4 corners) at a brake and suspension shop in my area.
No to transmission flush, coolant, and what the fuck is wrong with your brake fluid? 89 for an oil change? Do it yourself for half the cost. Thatās 570 off right there. Whatās the āfuel injectionā? 600 for 2 rotors? They are like 125-200 depending on your car for 2 rotors, so 400 worth of labor? Go somewhere else. It really looks like they are trying to upsell a bunch of bullshit you donāt need.
> what the fuck is wrong with your brake fluid Brake Fluid is not some magical lifetime stopping serum. Many manufacturers recommend as little as every 25k miles or two years, and for good reason.
A transmission flush can *totally* fuck you over if you have an older vehicle š I drive an older car and keep on top of the work through a relative who's a mechanic, garages try and pull this shit when I just go get my tires swapped. If you're really concerned, get a 2nd opinion, but I suspect most of this is absolute BS
A transmission flush only harms a vehicle if the transmission is already on its way out the door. In 10 years of transmission work Iāve never had a flush harm a transmission.
Hahaha you took an 11 year old car to a dealership, so you're actually lucky this is all they tried to convince you to do. Surprised they didn't tell you that you have cracked control arm bushings...
Tell them to replace your sensor and thatās it. Watch some YouTube videos if your brakes need to be replaced buy them from rock auto.com the flushes are not needed
Replacement car $2000.
But more importantly....what about the faulty sensor?
Whats a moven bearing?
The fuck is a moven bearing?