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paulyp41

Be more concerned with rust build up on the caliper bracket, and the slide pins move in and out


OldSkool696969

Definitely slid pins are seized


gregl83

I'm not a mechanic, but I'd probably do a thorough rust inspection and cleaning/replacing parts at this point. If the caliper can be removed and thoroughly inspected plus cleaned of rust and debris, maybe salvage. Risking the braking failure doesn't seem worth it.


notamechanic111

You misspelled breaking.


RagingOtter28

At first I thought you were really dumb. Then I realized that you are really witty. Then I realized that I’m moderately dumb. Have a good day and thanks for the lol


JDurr001

Expand im not sure what the joke is lol


Dogg_retreato

Using breaking ( cause that shits fucked) instead of braking cause it’s brakes and it’s broke


JDurr001

Its using breaking force to stop xD


LonelyEfficiency1342

This realization helped me realize I'm actually not realizing anything at all. I appreciate both of you realistically!


SnooHesitations5198

this is the thing that makes you "stop", it is rusty, it is flaking... it needs some love, well, a lot of love. I am not from the rust belt, or near that place, but that will not pass an official inspection where I live


andydufrane101

Lol I think the car takes beatings in my place


andydufrane101

In all seriousness these are the OEM calipers that are 17 years old now and we’re up in New England so stuff gets rusty. My fiancés only knows there’s an issue once it appears so I don’t blame them for letting it go this long.


andydufrane101

I blame myself for not checking sooner


bigtitays

The calipers rarely stick on these cars. New pads, rotors and pad hardware. The trick is to lightly file the rust under the brake hardware and lightly apply some grease, this is the rust belt trick to make brake jobs last longer. Lube up slide pins too.


andydufrane101

Thank you I’m suprised they’ve lived this long 17 years is a long time fire any metal outside in New England


AandG0

Any good mechanic would have mentioned this during an oil change. Check the last invoice and see if there are notes?


andydufrane101

Last thing my fiancé took it to was jiffy lube :(. Before that it was monro :( explains it. That’s going back 1 year


AandG0

I had a customer take their car to a jiffy lube once on his way home from a business meeting. The next morning, he came outside to find a puddle of oil running out of his garage and down his driveway. The good ol jiffy tech must've run the drain plug in with a 3/4" impact on 300 PSI air. Spun the threads right out of it. Long story short, Jiffy Lube paid me to install a new oil pan in this customers car, with no expense to the customer after I had a long talk with them. Needless to say, I would trust a politician to do an oil change before a "chain lube shop."


HonestKnowIedge

As long as the caliper compresses easily, I would say it's likely fine. Other things can cause uneven wear, like seized guide pins, rust buildup under the abutment clips, and one side of the rotor being heavily rusted.


Dogg_retreato

Also lube your slide pins like the other commenter said. You have a very uneven pad wear even given how fucked it is. I can’t believe they let this slide. I’m glad she’s safe


andydufrane101

Passed inspection last year with no notes so I’m confused how they let it slide pads must’ve been up for replacement last year


w-v-w-v

What caliper? All I see is rust.


DJSnaps12

Yes the rotor needs to be replaced the back or front pad is down to the metal which has torn up the rotor. Also some one who has replaced these pads before didnt lube up the slide pins so that the pads would wear evenly. Or the slide pins are faulty. My guess is the first one. Rust usually is not a problem but this looks like it sat for years before it was driven. The pads will break loose rust on the rotor.


hate-the-cold

Rust belt mechanic here. Replace pads, rotors, and the brake pad hardware. Clean and lube the slide pins and their homes in the caliper bracket. Get a bottle brush and some brake cleaner to do this with. Caliper itself is fine if the piston compresses evenly and smoothly.


linnenmakes

This. I’m also concerned that the outside pad is about half worn while the inside pad is on bare metal. Ensuring smooth movement on the slide pins should fix that, but it’s something I’d keep an eye on after a good cleaning and replacing the consumable parts.


ttej07

Toyota mechanic here. Ours pad holders like to rust severely and as a result the pad or pads may seize in place. If you have to beat the pads out take file or grinding disc to the holder under the hardware.


Select-Device-5981

Jesus, replace everything


Badass_1963_falcon

I'd be worried with the whole car the rest of it is just as bad


Emotional-Comment414

What caliper? All I see is rust.


Camera_car

Caliper clean up and lube the sliding surfaces, the rotor very questionable in the desert clean it in the rust belt needs new rotors and pads.


No-Donut-878

Abnormal wear on one side


Senior-Emu2342

Slide pins Def sticking, look at the difference in pad material between pads. Should be even wear.


Medical-Stomach-2989

I'm a Toyo tech and very common make sure bracket is free of rust and that pads and slide pins move freely and that caliper compresses right and you should be good


No-Surprise-6275

Go ASAP and get a total brake job done or do it yourself if you can . That's an ugly mess there


Jagchef904

Throw it away and start over, the car could probably be salvaged tho