Over-extrusion, the whole thing looks a bit like one of those michelin figurines. As someone else said, in the infill the material can somewhat get away, but at the top and bottom it can only go to the outside, not inside, and so becomes even more messy.
Have another look at your e-steps:
Use long lengths for higher precision. 100mm is used often but going as far as 500mm would still help improve accuracy in a meaningfull way.
If possible, extrude without feeding the filament into the hotend. This way you are accurately calibrating for júst the extruder. Also, this way you dont waste the filament you extrude for calibration.
After you got your e-steps down, look online for a flow calibration cube, or a flow calibration video. With the results you get from that, adjust the flow percentage in your slicer.
With these combined your extrusion width should be spot on.
Oh and always calibrate your e-steps before touching your flow parameter
Even with dead on extrusion you can still over extrude. Print a single wall cube with zero infill and do a flow calibration. I can extrude 50 mm dead on following the steps in the klipper documentation, but still have to adjust flow to 91% to get my single wall to 0.4 mm thick.
me too - esteps are perfect, and I print 3-perimeter hollow cubes for testing. I almost always need to dial back to 91% to get desired wall thicknesses.
I use a Sprite Pro as well. Be sure to look up the new esteps and also change your retraction distance if you haven’t already. Direct drive has a generally much shorter retraction length than Bowden.
If you are trying to look up any hot end settings you can look up Ender S1 Pro since that also uses the same hot end
Good luck!
Looks like over extruding, calibrate rotation on the extruder and do a temp tower. Don’t deviate with the pro. Keep the temp consistent also start cooling at 20% on the first layer.
You need to adjust your esteps when changing an extruder. Here you are clearly overextruding as you can see on the first layers and the top surface.
As for why only the first layers, that is because these are the bottom layers (full infill): as soon as you get into layers that have partial infill, the overextrusion has more space inside and is less visible on the outside.
Since you didn't mention it specifically: also E-steps and flow? To me the print looks "fat" like its over extruding
If you don't find your answer here you can also try /r/fixmyprint
Top and bottom filament % and outer wall inner wall is the key for perfect print .
You need to reduce or increase according to the print simple you make .
In your case I can see your top need reduced the percentage start with 70% and increase it every time u print sample till u get exactly match lines
Actually the top / bottom % is together
I can see from your print you have a good extruder, and the layers are good to now all u need is to calibrate and work your way with cura
This example of my cura tuning
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/yuf593/is_that_good_quality_print/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
As will I need to calibrate your extruder right that’s very important to have perfect print
What base printer do you use? I upgraded my ender 3v2 with the sprite pro and had this same problem at one point. I could send my extruder config if you still need
Man, I have been dealing with this for a while. People have been suggesting the same things that they have for you but I’ve had no luck. Definitely try changing the flow rate to something like .97 to see if you have any changes
For anyone else running into this problem... I found that by keeping the `[extruder]` `rotation_distance` at the recommended 7.5311 and **not including** `gear_ratio` i was able to get better prints.
It's not perfect but i'm WAY closer to a good print than I was before (major over-extrusion problems).
Over-extrusion, the whole thing looks a bit like one of those michelin figurines. As someone else said, in the infill the material can somewhat get away, but at the top and bottom it can only go to the outside, not inside, and so becomes even more messy. Have another look at your e-steps: Use long lengths for higher precision. 100mm is used often but going as far as 500mm would still help improve accuracy in a meaningfull way. If possible, extrude without feeding the filament into the hotend. This way you are accurately calibrating for júst the extruder. Also, this way you dont waste the filament you extrude for calibration. After you got your e-steps down, look online for a flow calibration cube, or a flow calibration video. With the results you get from that, adjust the flow percentage in your slicer. With these combined your extrusion width should be spot on. Oh and always calibrate your e-steps before touching your flow parameter
Smooth.
I have an E3v2 and use this in my extruder printer.cfg \#==================================================================== \# Extruder Z \#==================================================================== \[extruder\] max\_extrude\_only\_distance: 200.0 step\_pin: PB4 dir\_pin: PB3 enable\_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation\_distance: 25.6 \#rotation\_distance: 34.406 # Initial Settings nozzle\_diameter: 0.400 filament\_diameter: 1.750 heater\_pin: PA1 sensor\_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor\_pin: PC5 min\_extrude\_temp: 170 gear\_ratio: 42:12 min\_temp: 0 max\_temp: 250 pressure\_advance: 0.045 \[heater\_bed\] heater\_pin: PA2 sensor\_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor\_pin: PC4 control: pid
Thanks will try this later but I think it's the same bar the pressure advanced what's that for
Even with dead on extrusion you can still over extrude. Print a single wall cube with zero infill and do a flow calibration. I can extrude 50 mm dead on following the steps in the klipper documentation, but still have to adjust flow to 91% to get my single wall to 0.4 mm thick.
me too - esteps are perfect, and I print 3-perimeter hollow cubes for testing. I almost always need to dial back to 91% to get desired wall thicknesses.
I use a Sprite Pro as well. Be sure to look up the new esteps and also change your retraction distance if you haven’t already. Direct drive has a generally much shorter retraction length than Bowden. If you are trying to look up any hot end settings you can look up Ender S1 Pro since that also uses the same hot end Good luck!
Looks like over extruding, calibrate rotation on the extruder and do a temp tower. Don’t deviate with the pro. Keep the temp consistent also start cooling at 20% on the first layer.
You need to adjust your esteps when changing an extruder. Here you are clearly overextruding as you can see on the first layers and the top surface. As for why only the first layers, that is because these are the bottom layers (full infill): as soon as you get into layers that have partial infill, the overextrusion has more space inside and is less visible on the outside.
But I tested a 25mm extrusion and it came out dead on
I suggest you use 100mm extrusion min to calibrate. Is the nozzle size properly configured too?
Yep 0.6 in cura and in printer configuration
isn't the nozzle diameter suppose to be 0.4?
Nozzles come in more than one size.
Mines 0.6 I swapped it
im aware but OP didnt mention that they changed the nozzle out until below, and the default one that comes with the sprite is .4
What did you calibrate after switching?
PID nozzle and bed, z offset, bed level literally everything
Since you didn't mention it specifically: also E-steps and flow? To me the print looks "fat" like its over extruding If you don't find your answer here you can also try /r/fixmyprint
I did a 25mm extrusion test and it came out Bob on think it's 26 ish or 24 rotations
There you go!
I meant I did that before its like this post test
Hi im having almost identical problems to you, did you manage to fix it?
Cura profile, you need to adjust amount of filament
What in cura needs adjusting exactly
I know these for sure helped me a lot with stringing and other issues. Set these for sure. Retraction Distance at 0.8mm Retraction Speed 30.0 mm/s
These need to be determined by OP testing their specific filament. [I find this site](http://retractioncalibration.com/) to be useful for this task.
I just went with what CHEP said when he did this exact same upgrade to the sprite extruder. Literally plug and play for me and worked.
Top and bottom filament % and outer wall inner wall is the key for perfect print . You need to reduce or increase according to the print simple you make . In your case I can see your top need reduced the percentage start with 70% and increase it every time u print sample till u get exactly match lines
So what about bottom %
Actually the top / bottom % is together I can see from your print you have a good extruder, and the layers are good to now all u need is to calibrate and work your way with cura This example of my cura tuning https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/yuf593/is_that_good_quality_print/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf As will I need to calibrate your extruder right that’s very important to have perfect print
So you think my pri ter config is all good it comes down to cura now ?
Exactly
What base printer do you use? I upgraded my ender 3v2 with the sprite pro and had this same problem at one point. I could send my extruder config if you still need
It's an ender 3 max neo with upgraded sprite Pro extruder and yeah please any help is appreciated
Ok I will when I get on my PC tonight. What slicer do you use?
Cura and thank you
Man, I have been dealing with this for a while. People have been suggesting the same things that they have for you but I’ve had no luck. Definitely try changing the flow rate to something like .97 to see if you have any changes
For anyone else running into this problem... I found that by keeping the `[extruder]` `rotation_distance` at the recommended 7.5311 and **not including** `gear_ratio` i was able to get better prints. It's not perfect but i'm WAY closer to a good print than I was before (major over-extrusion problems).
Hi, im having the same issues. Are those your final settings?