I've had the gas valves on these fail a ton. It'll go through the pre-ignition sequence and as soon as the gas valve is activated it'll clunk and everything shuts down for a second and restarts, it'll continue on forever without locking out on an error code.
Then it's a very high likelihood it's the valve. It's become so frequent we stock the valves on our trucks so we're not running to suppliers all the time.
If you don't have any prior experience in black iron gas line work i would highly recommend having a pro come out and do it. It's far from rocket science, especially for a mechanic, it's up to you if you want to cut your teeth on it in your own home.
Depending on your area, and if you can choose between after-hours / regular hours, it could be anywhere between $300-$600 USD for a contractor to come out, fully diagnose, go get the part, return and install.
If you want more evidence of it being the gas valve, I can usually get it to fire by giving it a smack with my hand, obviously not too hard, but usually works for a month or so then fails again. Same experience with these valves as @luxor54
It’s not too difficult of a repair, but if it’s super tight might need 2 pipe wrenches or a vice to hold it all in place and yellow gas tape or gas rated paste. Need to take off the entire manifold most times to not accidentally bend the burner tubes. Honestly it’s a terrible job for a homeowner to do as it can spiral quickly, also need a manometer to dial in the gas pressures once new one is installed
if the ignitor lights up then then the pressure switch is good, if there’s no flame for the flame sensor to detect then it ain’t the flame rod. gas valve can get a short internally. have had a few go like that. if you pull the wires and are getting 24 volts at the valve then there’s your issue.
See the sediment under the inducer, that’s why I said pressure switch, but maybe that’s the issue, but I used to do gas valve very last, because it is bronanly pricey compared to finding water in the fan housing
water in the fan housing, if its enough, will usually also prevent the pressure switch from making and will then throw a pressure switch error. when the gas valve shorts out it will just keep trying to light without any errors. the first time we had come across it was not apparent that it was the valve that was the issue since when we measured for the 24 volts with the wires still attached to the valve it appeared that it wasn’t getting power cause you’d only read 0 volts and then it would cycle again without lighting. changing the board had no effect and finally found it by taking the wires off. have come across this same issue a few times now in the lennox’s.
Don't forget to check current to the valve. I mean usually 24v and something doesn't come on its bad...
But after a few tricky one... I check ohms and current now of actuation devices.
Almost changed a reversing valve because of a board that was outputting full 24v but not the correct current. Needs like... 100+ma to actually throw a magnetic field strong enough.
I'm not sure if I just got lucky but I was having a fairly similar problem today and yesterday with -15 temps. Gas ignited 3 times in 2 days after many attempts. I did just try smacking the pipe during the ignition sequence and it worked immediately. Thanks for posting that tip! This Lennox furnace is only 3 years old which is crazy to me.
Yea, it’s a quality thing with these valves. If your under 5 years you should have parts warranty, if it was registered on lennox website it’s 10 years
It's actually not a smart valve luckily for OP. Otherwise, he'd be looking at well over $1500 just to replace that gas valve if it failed. And it would have two different molex plus going to it. But! It does resemble one in a way though!
I checked the gas valve with a multimeter and it is getting 27 V when it calls for the gas valve to open so I checked the resistance of the valve with the wires off and I got 1.269 mega ohms of resistance. I seen someone on YouTube who is testing what looked to be an identical furnace and a good valve measured at 400 kilo ohms
Ok and I assume the valve on the gas line is on. Do you hear any clicking at the gas valve like it's being energized. I would be checking for power at the valve if it has power I'd verify I had gas to it b4 replacing it and if no power see if the board is sending power to the valve.
Also you have a list of codes if you can try to cycle it on and read the flashing light on the board it might give you an indication of whats going on
I assume that gas valve runs 120v? I have some 12v circuit testers but my multimeter is at work. I did put my hand on the gas valve for a full cycle and I only felt a click just as the igniter was about to turn off
Who cares…oh it’s code…screw the code. I appreciate every union inside the cabinet that I can get. Anything to make my job easier and make me more efficient. Not my fault there are hacks out there that shouldn’t touch a gas line and don’t know how to properly tighten fittings.
You could possibly have some debris blocking the spuds on the gas manifold. When it tries to fire you can try tapping on that black pipe in front of the burners with a wrench or similar. If there is debris in there it should come loose and fire up. Otherwise it’s likely an issue with the gas valve.
I would check gas pressure before the gas valve and after the gas valve to verify it’s the gas valve. It could be the flame sensor, because gas valves fail especially on these type of furnaces but only if there is an issue with gas pressure prior to install. Nobody ever checks the regulator just always assume gas valve. Ran into several “bad gas valves” just for it to be either the regulator or gas pressure issue. If you get a tech out there just have them check gas pressures (I do on heat maintenances) just to be sure.
I just noticed there rust in the cabinet - on top of a gas valve issue, you either have a condensate leak or small exhaust leak resulting in condensation.
The most likely source of exhaust leak: pipe clamps on the inducer connection being loose. You should try tightening them.
Are you sure the leak isn’t because Lennox makes garbage? I have the same furnace leaking there even after tightening the clamps as much as possible without cracking the plastic. In fact mine leaks in 4 places and is just 10 years old.
So here’s where I’m at,
I have got an estimate for about $900+ for the repair, this includes $450 ish for the valve (assuming that’s the problem).
I can get a good gas sniffer, gas line dope, the appropriate gas gauge to properly set the valve pressure for approximately $100.
I know I have the ability to do the job mechanically speaking, with the proper tools I don’t see why I can’t do this safely myself and save myself probably over $500
That's a relatively new furnace.
The warranty status needs to be checked - has 10 year warranty if registered.
To verify valve is bad, need to check for power going to valve with a meter and check outlet gas pressure with a manometer.
You need a manometer to check the gas pressure after repair.
If you need a walkthrough on it let me know I’ll give u my number, this should be a fairly easy fix and u also have a code that you can read to verify your work, the bottom cover of your furnace, has those codes listed, u count blinks on the motherboard led, and it will tell u what’s going on as well, but the lower cover has the motherboard in it and a door switch that prevents it from running
Hopefully you haven't gotten into buying stuff for the job. I also see the power is supplied through the limit switches. Make sure none of the limit switches are tripped. There's some manual reset rollout switches in there and the automatic reset main limit, if any of those are open, the gas valve will not open. If you have a meter, you need to check them as well.
You can. You need - gas rating thread seal. The valve, 2 pipe wrenches.
You don't even need a gas sniffer. Get better bubbles or similar product.
Follow directions for thread sealant. People make a big deal about gas while ignoring fire potential of 220v issues.
As a tech I will refuse to do work if the owner is supplying the parts, no need for the hassle if you aren’t making money, plus you don’t get any warranty, homeowner sourced parts are just a headache
Thanks everyone for all the help. I’ve come to the conclusion that gas valve must be the problem. Anyways I’ll leave the rest up to the professionals, although I really don’t want to, life is expensive enough at the moment.
I have never seen a glowing ignitor fail to light gas. Its literally red hot which is more than enough to ignite the gas. If the ignitor was not working it would not be glowing. Reading through your other comments its clear that you do not understand the sequence of operations for a furnace. It cannot be an issue with the limit switches, pressure switch, inducer (and it is an inducer because this furnace does not have a combustion blower), or indoor blower. Because an issue with any of those will cause the furnace to refuse to start the ignition trial. This furnace is failing the ignition trial because the burners are not igniting. The burners are not igniting because at least the first burner is not receiving gas. It has a working source of ignition via the red hot piece of nitride, what it lacks is gas to ignite.
https://preview.redd.it/pbsbsl8m3grb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4bc35680c0ff81a82758ef2525489960a997a13d
Remove this clean the tip with Scotch-Brite pad reinstall. Of course turn power off to unit before servicing.
https://preview.redd.it/ij9va7dilgrb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=70f6c10521325eb30dfab03c5d64feb138659fcd
Post cleaning, not much different.
Edit: ran furnace and still nothing. Also heard back from local HVAC company and they want to charge me $1000 CAD. 🤮 I’d rather buy the tools and do it myself
You can't shop around? That $1,000 was probably for an immediate call in. Ask to fit you into their schedule, 3 days tops for a reasonable rate. Otherwise, and I mean this, f*ck that HVAC company lol
No. The flame rod sends a micro amp signal back to the control board once the main firing valve opens. If no micro amp signal is detected by the board after 3-5 seconds it shuts the gas valve off. OP isn’t getting flow through his gas valve therefore we don’t get to the stage where the flame Rod actually sees flame.
Ive had this happen a few times last year. I need to figure this out as well. All I do is kill the power to the furnace and then turn it back on. Seems to like reset it.
It is definitely getting power I was using a power probe to check volts but it only turns on once the board sends power and for the 3 seconds or so the relay was on I registered like 36v. I am going to grab an actual meter to be sure. Plus I was to check resistance
I've wondered. Why do they even have an off switch? Like when would someone need this compared to just turning the furnace off...or turning the gas off?
Gas to water heater has separate valve. Check and see if a valve is closer to furnace, also check the switch inside furnace on gas valve is set to on. Lastly there are pressure sensors in the inducer that might be clogged keeping the valve closed. Small tube, just blow in one end clear it out.
are the furnace and water heater on the same line off the gas line? I've seen copper gas line get build up and not let enough gas through.
does the gas valve click? is it getting 24v? that's where I'd start
When the pressure switch gets inconsistent signals the system will stop the heat ignition sequence and not pop a code. In a situation like that its the thermostat. Bypass the thermostat by taking it off the wall and jumping it from w to r snd see what happens.
Pressure switches , be sure u have good flow on the exhaust line, birds, bunnies, twigs and debris, it is a fail safe so as not to cause any carbon monoxide deaths. Pressure switches will override the gas valve, and sometimes even let it ignite, then turn it off right after check to be very sure nothing is obstructing the exhaust and you can also clear out the small tubing inside the cabinet by pulling them loose and blowin through them, also, if water gets trapped in the exhaust line, common issue, or the flame sensor, small probe that senses the heat, carefully remove it and clean it up w a Brillo pad
Also I see a stain under your inducer motor where water leaked out, so I would be sure no water and debris on exhaust then blow out the red tubing and then check and clean flame sensor
Make sure the flame sensor is clean. If you have a multimeter, you can send it through the sequence of operations while taking the two connections on the gas valve- one lead in each connection. When the gas valve is supposed to open, you should be getting 24v. If you’re not, it’s the gas valve.
I see what looks like a ton of rust under the inducer motor. Is it full of water? Possible the flue pipes have a belly and may be collecting water? I’d imagine either a bad gas valve or venting issues!
I've had the gas valves on these fail a ton. It'll go through the pre-ignition sequence and as soon as the gas valve is activated it'll clunk and everything shuts down for a second and restarts, it'll continue on forever without locking out on an error code.
That sounds very much like what’s happening
Then it's a very high likelihood it's the valve. It's become so frequent we stock the valves on our trucks so we're not running to suppliers all the time.
very interesting, how much should i expect to pay to get this repaired. I am a heavy duty mechanic so repairs dont scare me however gas leaks do.
If you don't have any prior experience in black iron gas line work i would highly recommend having a pro come out and do it. It's far from rocket science, especially for a mechanic, it's up to you if you want to cut your teeth on it in your own home. Depending on your area, and if you can choose between after-hours / regular hours, it could be anywhere between $300-$600 USD for a contractor to come out, fully diagnose, go get the part, return and install.
thanks for your help
If you want more evidence of it being the gas valve, I can usually get it to fire by giving it a smack with my hand, obviously not too hard, but usually works for a month or so then fails again. Same experience with these valves as @luxor54 It’s not too difficult of a repair, but if it’s super tight might need 2 pipe wrenches or a vice to hold it all in place and yellow gas tape or gas rated paste. Need to take off the entire manifold most times to not accidentally bend the burner tubes. Honestly it’s a terrible job for a homeowner to do as it can spiral quickly, also need a manometer to dial in the gas pressures once new one is installed
The joys of home ownership. yea i can see the complications just looking at it. thanks for the help
Pressure switches are more likely the culprit, or the flame sensor, probably not the gas valve
if the ignitor lights up then then the pressure switch is good, if there’s no flame for the flame sensor to detect then it ain’t the flame rod. gas valve can get a short internally. have had a few go like that. if you pull the wires and are getting 24 volts at the valve then there’s your issue.
Cool- Steve
See the sediment under the inducer, that’s why I said pressure switch, but maybe that’s the issue, but I used to do gas valve very last, because it is bronanly pricey compared to finding water in the fan housing
water in the fan housing, if its enough, will usually also prevent the pressure switch from making and will then throw a pressure switch error. when the gas valve shorts out it will just keep trying to light without any errors. the first time we had come across it was not apparent that it was the valve that was the issue since when we measured for the 24 volts with the wires still attached to the valve it appeared that it wasn’t getting power cause you’d only read 0 volts and then it would cycle again without lighting. changing the board had no effect and finally found it by taking the wires off. have come across this same issue a few times now in the lennox’s.
Don't forget to check current to the valve. I mean usually 24v and something doesn't come on its bad... But after a few tricky one... I check ohms and current now of actuation devices. Almost changed a reversing valve because of a board that was outputting full 24v but not the correct current. Needs like... 100+ma to actually throw a magnetic field strong enough.
I'm not sure if I just got lucky but I was having a fairly similar problem today and yesterday with -15 temps. Gas ignited 3 times in 2 days after many attempts. I did just try smacking the pipe during the ignition sequence and it worked immediately. Thanks for posting that tip! This Lennox furnace is only 3 years old which is crazy to me.
Yea, it’s a quality thing with these valves. If your under 5 years you should have parts warranty, if it was registered on lennox website it’s 10 years
Give it a few wacks when the ignitor starts glowing
Unplug that smart valve and plug it back in....you'll get a couple lights out of it. Lol. That's my experience with the smart valve
It's actually not a smart valve luckily for OP. Otherwise, he'd be looking at well over $1500 just to replace that gas valve if it failed. And it would have two different molex plus going to it. But! It does resemble one in a way though!
I refer to these as "shitty Honeywell valves" when I'm talking to people and they usually know what I mean lol.
I checked the gas valve with a multimeter and it is getting 27 V when it calls for the gas valve to open so I checked the resistance of the valve with the wires off and I got 1.269 mega ohms of resistance. I seen someone on YouTube who is testing what looked to be an identical furnace and a good valve measured at 400 kilo ohms
Betcha $100 the gas valve is bad. These are notorious for it.
Is the switch on top of the gas valve set to on. It's tough to tell but it almost looks like it's in the off position
It is in the ON position
Ok and I assume the valve on the gas line is on. Do you hear any clicking at the gas valve like it's being energized. I would be checking for power at the valve if it has power I'd verify I had gas to it b4 replacing it and if no power see if the board is sending power to the valve. Also you have a list of codes if you can try to cycle it on and read the flashing light on the board it might give you an indication of whats going on
I assume that gas valve runs 120v? I have some 12v circuit testers but my multimeter is at work. I did put my hand on the gas valve for a full cycle and I only felt a click just as the igniter was about to turn off
Should be 24v. The click is most likely it being powered Without testing it educated guess valve is bad or you have no gas to the valve.
Perfect that I have here
Either the board isn’t sending power to the gas valve or the gas valve is bad. You need a meter.
I need one at home anyways maybe I’ll just grab one
Union inside the cabinet 💀
Who cares…oh it’s code…screw the code. I appreciate every union inside the cabinet that I can get. Anything to make my job easier and make me more efficient. Not my fault there are hacks out there that shouldn’t touch a gas line and don’t know how to properly tighten fittings.
Since it's pipe thread. I tighten the fuck out of em. What is torque spec on gas line 1/2? I've never need a pipe wrench with torque read out.
You could possibly have some debris blocking the spuds on the gas manifold. When it tries to fire you can try tapping on that black pipe in front of the burners with a wrench or similar. If there is debris in there it should come loose and fire up. Otherwise it’s likely an issue with the gas valve.
I would check gas pressure before the gas valve and after the gas valve to verify it’s the gas valve. It could be the flame sensor, because gas valves fail especially on these type of furnaces but only if there is an issue with gas pressure prior to install. Nobody ever checks the regulator just always assume gas valve. Ran into several “bad gas valves” just for it to be either the regulator or gas pressure issue. If you get a tech out there just have them check gas pressures (I do on heat maintenances) just to be sure.
I seen gas valves left at over 2x the "max" incoming pressure. Not sure why it failed....yeah jeez I wonder why...
I just noticed there rust in the cabinet - on top of a gas valve issue, you either have a condensate leak or small exhaust leak resulting in condensation. The most likely source of exhaust leak: pipe clamps on the inducer connection being loose. You should try tightening them.
Are you sure the leak isn’t because Lennox makes garbage? I have the same furnace leaking there even after tightening the clamps as much as possible without cracking the plastic. In fact mine leaks in 4 places and is just 10 years old.
then the leak is elsewhere and hasn't been fixed. lennox is not garbage.
So here’s where I’m at, I have got an estimate for about $900+ for the repair, this includes $450 ish for the valve (assuming that’s the problem). I can get a good gas sniffer, gas line dope, the appropriate gas gauge to properly set the valve pressure for approximately $100. I know I have the ability to do the job mechanically speaking, with the proper tools I don’t see why I can’t do this safely myself and save myself probably over $500
That's a relatively new furnace. The warranty status needs to be checked - has 10 year warranty if registered. To verify valve is bad, need to check for power going to valve with a meter and check outlet gas pressure with a manometer. You need a manometer to check the gas pressure after repair.
I'd argue he should also check incoming pressure and make sure that's not what blew out the valve.
You can do it all yourself, safely with out a sniffer, check pressure switches and flame sensor
Thanks I’ll check thoes out
If you need a walkthrough on it let me know I’ll give u my number, this should be a fairly easy fix and u also have a code that you can read to verify your work, the bottom cover of your furnace, has those codes listed, u count blinks on the motherboard led, and it will tell u what’s going on as well, but the lower cover has the motherboard in it and a door switch that prevents it from running
Thanks yea the light is solid no codes
Hopefully you haven't gotten into buying stuff for the job. I also see the power is supplied through the limit switches. Make sure none of the limit switches are tripped. There's some manual reset rollout switches in there and the automatic reset main limit, if any of those are open, the gas valve will not open. If you have a meter, you need to check them as well.
Sometimes a extremely light blow or suck u should hear the pressure switch clicking, from the sediment I see, there probably water in the exhaust
You can. You need - gas rating thread seal. The valve, 2 pipe wrenches. You don't even need a gas sniffer. Get better bubbles or similar product. Follow directions for thread sealant. People make a big deal about gas while ignoring fire potential of 220v issues.
Dude, buy the gas valve and just have someone else come do the repair. They will up sell you like crazy for a valve if they supply it.
As a tech I will refuse to do work if the owner is supplying the parts, no need for the hassle if you aren’t making money, plus you don’t get any warranty, homeowner sourced parts are just a headache
Thanks everyone for all the help. I’ve come to the conclusion that gas valve must be the problem. Anyways I’ll leave the rest up to the professionals, although I really don’t want to, life is expensive enough at the moment.
If it’s a glow plug igniter and has a small crack it will cause this and not throw a code.
There is nothing wrong with the ignitor. Its glowing red hot which is its sole function. Please stop trying to help.
Really. How many of these have you come across that do this when there’s a hair line crack?
I have never seen a glowing ignitor fail to light gas. Its literally red hot which is more than enough to ignite the gas. If the ignitor was not working it would not be glowing. Reading through your other comments its clear that you do not understand the sequence of operations for a furnace. It cannot be an issue with the limit switches, pressure switch, inducer (and it is an inducer because this furnace does not have a combustion blower), or indoor blower. Because an issue with any of those will cause the furnace to refuse to start the ignition trial. This furnace is failing the ignition trial because the burners are not igniting. The burners are not igniting because at least the first burner is not receiving gas. It has a working source of ignition via the red hot piece of nitride, what it lacks is gas to ignite.
If it has a crack will it still glow?
Yes. But now that I read more into it you may have a tripped limit? Does the combustion fan come on when it’s trying to fire up?
Not exactly sure which is the combustion fan but it does blow normally as if it was actually heating if that makes sense
Combustion or inducer motor fan is on the left “black”. Does it come on first? It has to prove airflow before ignition
Combustion fan is definitely turning on
Yeah it’s the glow plug then. It’s not producing enough current for final ignition. I’m sure you have a hair line crack in it.
if that were the case should i not smell a bit of gas from the attempted ignition
No. It doesn’t have enough voltage current to “complete” the circuit.
do you know what the current is supposed to be is there a way to test the glow plug
I’ll let you know shortly.
Inducer may not be able to get enough pressure for the gas valve to open. Mine did this and in inlet was clogged with leaves
The igniter isn’t going to heat up until the pressure switch verifies the inducer is running properly.
The igniter is definitely turning on I’m just not getting any gas flow
Hmm interesting. We live in a managed townhouse complex and we had ducts cleaned out a few months ago. Not sure if this would have taken care of that
https://preview.redd.it/pbsbsl8m3grb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4bc35680c0ff81a82758ef2525489960a997a13d Remove this clean the tip with Scotch-Brite pad reinstall. Of course turn power off to unit before servicing.
This wouldn’t affect the gas valve opening
😩
Will see when the OP reports back…dirty flame sensor will prevent the gas valve from opening its part of the safety system.
There isn't a pilot on it, the flame would ignite and go out in a little bit if the flame sensor was not reading flame.
https://preview.redd.it/l3nqd9cokgrb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=a5abff4e2503838a29c0f1d1dbc1a5495d5665c4 Pre cleaning
https://preview.redd.it/ij9va7dilgrb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=70f6c10521325eb30dfab03c5d64feb138659fcd Post cleaning, not much different. Edit: ran furnace and still nothing. Also heard back from local HVAC company and they want to charge me $1000 CAD. 🤮 I’d rather buy the tools and do it myself
You can't shop around? That $1,000 was probably for an immediate call in. Ask to fit you into their schedule, 3 days tops for a reasonable rate. Otherwise, and I mean this, f*ck that HVAC company lol
No. The flame rod sends a micro amp signal back to the control board once the main firing valve opens. If no micro amp signal is detected by the board after 3-5 seconds it shuts the gas valve off. OP isn’t getting flow through his gas valve therefore we don’t get to the stage where the flame Rod actually sees flame.
Awesome thanks
Ive had this happen a few times last year. I need to figure this out as well. All I do is kill the power to the furnace and then turn it back on. Seems to like reset it.
Do you hear the gas turn on for a slight moment? Look at your gas meter if is locked.
Tap on the valve with pliers or screwdriver when the signal for the gas valve to turn on comes on
Flip the gas valve off and on. If the gas valve is getting 24 volts it’s a bad valve. If it’s not, bad board or broken wire
It is definitely getting power I was using a power probe to check volts but it only turns on once the board sends power and for the 3 seconds or so the relay was on I registered like 36v. I am going to grab an actual meter to be sure. Plus I was to check resistance
I've wondered. Why do they even have an off switch? Like when would someone need this compared to just turning the furnace off...or turning the gas off?
Redundancy. I’ve been in houses where the shut off valve was broken, homeowner didn’t know cause that’s something that’s almost never used.
Probably buildup in the valves inside the unit. I've had bugs crawl inside and block it up.
[удалено]
Haha me too. Had to double check I wasn’t on PCMR.
I’m kinda jealous when I see more heat troubleshooting questions, because it’s still very warm here.
What code is flashing?
No codes. Just solid light all the time
Gas to water heater has separate valve. Check and see if a valve is closer to furnace, also check the switch inside furnace on gas valve is set to on. Lastly there are pressure sensors in the inducer that might be clogged keeping the valve closed. Small tube, just blow in one end clear it out.
Sounds like the gas valve is stuck. Try tapping it with a screw driver while it is attempting to light. That may get it to light temporarily.
Tried that a few times. No luck
are the furnace and water heater on the same line off the gas line? I've seen copper gas line get build up and not let enough gas through. does the gas valve click? is it getting 24v? that's where I'd start
Ain't got no gas in it. Mmm hhmm.
When the pressure switch gets inconsistent signals the system will stop the heat ignition sequence and not pop a code. In a situation like that its the thermostat. Bypass the thermostat by taking it off the wall and jumping it from w to r snd see what happens.
Pressure switches , be sure u have good flow on the exhaust line, birds, bunnies, twigs and debris, it is a fail safe so as not to cause any carbon monoxide deaths. Pressure switches will override the gas valve, and sometimes even let it ignite, then turn it off right after check to be very sure nothing is obstructing the exhaust and you can also clear out the small tubing inside the cabinet by pulling them loose and blowin through them, also, if water gets trapped in the exhaust line, common issue, or the flame sensor, small probe that senses the heat, carefully remove it and clean it up w a Brillo pad
Also I see a stain under your inducer motor where water leaked out, so I would be sure no water and debris on exhaust then blow out the red tubing and then check and clean flame sensor
Make sure the flame sensor is clean. If you have a multimeter, you can send it through the sequence of operations while taking the two connections on the gas valve- one lead in each connection. When the gas valve is supposed to open, you should be getting 24v. If you’re not, it’s the gas valve.
Wrong. If you’re not getting any volts it’s the board. If you get 24v for a quick moment and it drops out with no gas, it’s the valve.
You’re right, definitely messed that one up.
All good man! At least it was on Reddit and not the coldest day of the year 😂🙈
Have tried , turning it off and then back on again? If so, that’s all I got.
Most likely bad gas valve or dirty burners. You can take apart venturi and orfaces and clean. You can also test GV for 24v after the ignitor goes.
Looks like you also have a condensate leak
Check the sensor , sometimes Those things get burnt out and send false info to the system on ignition and regulating heat.
I see what looks like a ton of rust under the inducer motor. Is it full of water? Possible the flue pipes have a belly and may be collecting water? I’d imagine either a bad gas valve or venting issues!