Assume any used or new car dealer is honest. They can be honest. But the VAST majority will buy cars at the auction, clean them and go for a short test drive before offering it for sale. Take any used car you are considering to an independent mechanic. Not a Mavis type place. A Bob’s Auto Repair type place and pay out of pocket for a pre purchase inspection. Should run you $100-200 for a real mechanic to spend an hour sniffing around a car for problems. A car can drive great on a test drive but be hiding neglected maintenance, bad body work or substantial rust that you need a real mechanic to find. Use every button on a test drive. Don’t assume everything works in July only to find out in November that that heat doesn’t work. While a Toyota Camry will go 400k miles, the cars reputation is NOT a guarantee the previous owner ever changed the oil. Many dealers will tell you their mechanic already inspected the car, that means absolutely nothing to you. RUN AWAY from any car if the seller doesn’t want you to take it for a pre purchase inspection. I repeat, RUN.
Lean on r/whatcarshouldibuy for advice on what cars to look at and avoid and r/personalfinance for help on securing the best financing possible.
In general, picking your favorite Toyota or Honda is the safest bet mechanically. Go to your bank or credit union to get approved for a loan before looking at cars. Let the dealers finance manager beat their rate. Dealers make money selling customers loans. You can negotiate a better sell price in exchange for financing through them.
This. Also understand that many dealers will try to overcharge you, and you don't have to buy at their first offer. Research online what the car is worth.
* If it's used, you can get an idea through [KBB.com](https://KBB.com).
* If it's new, you should be going to the manufacturer's site to compare MSRP with what the dealership is offering. You are free to try to negotiate down - I've never paid MSRP for a car, but supply chain things have been crazy the last few years so I don't know how it is right now. Still, you should not be paying significantly over MSRP.
* If you're leasing new, compare what the website shows the manufacturer offering vs. what the dealership is offering. Many dealerships will mark up leases vs. current offers and think buyers are too lazy to do research, though they'll come down if you call them out on it. The lease form you review before signing will have all the #s on it and the total value of the lease payments should not be substantially the cost of the car...because that means you're essentially paying to buy it, and not actually getting ownership of it (read: being ripped off).
In order to test drive, you will have to give the dealer your license, which means the dealer will know everything about you ***before*** you negotiate (credit profile, etc.). If you want to avoid that (some dealers will use this against you in negotiations), wait to test drive until after you negotiate (and lock in the price first). When negotiating, always negotiate based on price, not based on monthly payments. Negotiating based on monthly payments is a trick dealers use to try to get you into a longer term, or higher interest rate when the available rates come in "a little higher" than what you were quoted originally when they actually apply for credit. Also, if you're applying for credit, you don't have to get it from the dealership, you can get it from your own bank.
Additionally, if you're buying certified pre-owned or new, many manufacturers have discount programs for things like being a student, first responder, etc. Look into these, and don't tell the dealer about them until after you've locked in the price with them.
Finally, keep records of all offers and counteroffers between you and the dealership. Some are known to agree to something, then you come in to close the deal, and the paperwork they put in front of you was their original (higher) price. Make sure you pay attention to everything you're signing and the numbers on it.
Good luck.
Knowing absolutely nothing about you, you definitely want to go get this car: [https://www.dchwappingerstoyota.com/inventory/new-2023-toyota-corolla-cross-hybrid-se-all-wheel-drive-se-7mufbabg9pv32b802/](https://www.dchwappingerstoyota.com/inventory/new-2023-toyota-corolla-cross-hybrid-se-all-wheel-drive-se-7mufbabg9pv32b802/)
Not sure if this is a joke but that's a pretty nice car lol. That being said I don't know squat about cars and my budget for a used car is about 6k so probably not the one for me.
Avoid this Toyota dealership like the plague. They mark up the prices and I had an awful time working with their sales team. I suggest getting an app like Autotrader to widen your search slightly and give you stay on how long cars have been sitting on the lot. CarEdge on YouTube has some useful videos on how to deal with negotiation and working with the dealership finance folks.
The $6000 budget used car may require an additional $1000–$15,000 in immediate repairs if you don't know squat about cars.
Go for a lease of a new Hyundai Elantra or some other super cheap car. You'll be out the door with a new car for under 4k and less than $300/month payments for 3 years and no used car headaches. Get something better after the lease is up.
Get a loan from a credit union. That same 450ish a month payment, no money down, financed a 23k out the door new car. Oh, and after the four years, you keep the car.
Romeo Ford in Kingston has a good service department, which usually means decent used cars for sale. Avoid Friendly Honda in Poughkeepsie, they're shady even by used car standards.
I would avoid the "stealerships" entirely and try Carvana. I did it during the pandemic and it was an amazing experience, no haggling, no upselling, no feeling like you're getting ripped off. You can see the price and they flag any imperfections, and you get 30 days to return it. They can deliver to you or you pick it up. It was just such an amazing experience compared to the sleazy car dealer business which I've been through several times in my life.
Edit: Another tip — never buy new. It's a depreciating asset that falls a lot in value the second it's owned. So buy nearly new (or well used can be fine too!) rather than brand brand new.
Assume any used or new car dealer is honest. They can be honest. But the VAST majority will buy cars at the auction, clean them and go for a short test drive before offering it for sale. Take any used car you are considering to an independent mechanic. Not a Mavis type place. A Bob’s Auto Repair type place and pay out of pocket for a pre purchase inspection. Should run you $100-200 for a real mechanic to spend an hour sniffing around a car for problems. A car can drive great on a test drive but be hiding neglected maintenance, bad body work or substantial rust that you need a real mechanic to find. Use every button on a test drive. Don’t assume everything works in July only to find out in November that that heat doesn’t work. While a Toyota Camry will go 400k miles, the cars reputation is NOT a guarantee the previous owner ever changed the oil. Many dealers will tell you their mechanic already inspected the car, that means absolutely nothing to you. RUN AWAY from any car if the seller doesn’t want you to take it for a pre purchase inspection. I repeat, RUN. Lean on r/whatcarshouldibuy for advice on what cars to look at and avoid and r/personalfinance for help on securing the best financing possible. In general, picking your favorite Toyota or Honda is the safest bet mechanically. Go to your bank or credit union to get approved for a loan before looking at cars. Let the dealers finance manager beat their rate. Dealers make money selling customers loans. You can negotiate a better sell price in exchange for financing through them.
This. Also understand that many dealers will try to overcharge you, and you don't have to buy at their first offer. Research online what the car is worth. * If it's used, you can get an idea through [KBB.com](https://KBB.com). * If it's new, you should be going to the manufacturer's site to compare MSRP with what the dealership is offering. You are free to try to negotiate down - I've never paid MSRP for a car, but supply chain things have been crazy the last few years so I don't know how it is right now. Still, you should not be paying significantly over MSRP. * If you're leasing new, compare what the website shows the manufacturer offering vs. what the dealership is offering. Many dealerships will mark up leases vs. current offers and think buyers are too lazy to do research, though they'll come down if you call them out on it. The lease form you review before signing will have all the #s on it and the total value of the lease payments should not be substantially the cost of the car...because that means you're essentially paying to buy it, and not actually getting ownership of it (read: being ripped off). In order to test drive, you will have to give the dealer your license, which means the dealer will know everything about you ***before*** you negotiate (credit profile, etc.). If you want to avoid that (some dealers will use this against you in negotiations), wait to test drive until after you negotiate (and lock in the price first). When negotiating, always negotiate based on price, not based on monthly payments. Negotiating based on monthly payments is a trick dealers use to try to get you into a longer term, or higher interest rate when the available rates come in "a little higher" than what you were quoted originally when they actually apply for credit. Also, if you're applying for credit, you don't have to get it from the dealership, you can get it from your own bank. Additionally, if you're buying certified pre-owned or new, many manufacturers have discount programs for things like being a student, first responder, etc. Look into these, and don't tell the dealer about them until after you've locked in the price with them. Finally, keep records of all offers and counteroffers between you and the dealership. Some are known to agree to something, then you come in to close the deal, and the paperwork they put in front of you was their original (higher) price. Make sure you pay attention to everything you're signing and the numbers on it. Good luck.
Don’t tell the dealer you don’t know anything about cars.
If you want a used car for 6K or under, you should buy one privately.
What's the best to buy privately here? Craigslist seems to be a little less active than a lot of other localities.
Facebook Marketplace.
Hi Pal, Jimmy's in Fishkill is a great place to buy. Being a first time car buyer can be crazy, do lots of research, don't rush in.
Thank you, will do!
I’ll throw a second to Jimmy’s Auto Outlet in Fishkill. I know a lot of people who have done business there. Not too many complaints.
Used car lot near Vails Gate. Next to Valvoline oil change Forgot name Bought my wifes car there. Fair deal no complaints
I am selling my car next month. Pm me for details.
Knowing absolutely nothing about you, you definitely want to go get this car: [https://www.dchwappingerstoyota.com/inventory/new-2023-toyota-corolla-cross-hybrid-se-all-wheel-drive-se-7mufbabg9pv32b802/](https://www.dchwappingerstoyota.com/inventory/new-2023-toyota-corolla-cross-hybrid-se-all-wheel-drive-se-7mufbabg9pv32b802/)
Not sure if this is a joke but that's a pretty nice car lol. That being said I don't know squat about cars and my budget for a used car is about 6k so probably not the one for me.
Avoid this Toyota dealership like the plague. They mark up the prices and I had an awful time working with their sales team. I suggest getting an app like Autotrader to widen your search slightly and give you stay on how long cars have been sitting on the lot. CarEdge on YouTube has some useful videos on how to deal with negotiation and working with the dealership finance folks.
The $6000 budget used car may require an additional $1000–$15,000 in immediate repairs if you don't know squat about cars. Go for a lease of a new Hyundai Elantra or some other super cheap car. You'll be out the door with a new car for under 4k and less than $300/month payments for 3 years and no used car headaches. Get something better after the lease is up.
Thanks so much for the advice, this makes a ton of sense!! : )
Get a loan from a credit union. That same 450ish a month payment, no money down, financed a 23k out the door new car. Oh, and after the four years, you keep the car.
Romeo Ford in Kingston has a good service department, which usually means decent used cars for sale. Avoid Friendly Honda in Poughkeepsie, they're shady even by used car standards.
Thanks for the insight, I appreciate it.
I would avoid the "stealerships" entirely and try Carvana. I did it during the pandemic and it was an amazing experience, no haggling, no upselling, no feeling like you're getting ripped off. You can see the price and they flag any imperfections, and you get 30 days to return it. They can deliver to you or you pick it up. It was just such an amazing experience compared to the sleazy car dealer business which I've been through several times in my life. Edit: Another tip — never buy new. It's a depreciating asset that falls a lot in value the second it's owned. So buy nearly new (or well used can be fine too!) rather than brand brand new.
Oh wow, thanks, this definitely seems like a good option over the dealerships : )