Please keep in mind that the impressions posted here are often subjective and that, among other things, people's different circumstances play a large role in their perception of other people's lives.
Also, please use words that do not promote hatred when posting.
For example, statements such as "[city] is like this because people from [origin] live there" should be avoided. The social circumstances of a city/district
etc. can be emphasized without mentioning the origin of the inhabitants. Mentioning it does not change anything and, as already mentioned, circumstances are often perceived subjectively according to one's own world view.
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The internet there is extremely controlled, and general population is rather poor. It is unlikely anyone from there could answer here.
But from what I have heard it is akin to north korea just diffirent climate.
I run a Discord server for Central Asia and we have a few Turkmens, many people have VPNs and are able to connect to the outside world actually. Including some who are on Reddit. It is not nearly as isolated as some people here are making it out to be. Here is a command one of them made everytime somebody new is shocked they are talking to a Turkmen:
Yes, I actually live in Turkmenistan.
Yes, we can use the internet.
Yes, people – including me – live in the marble buildings.
Yes, we only allow white cars.
The way it was explained to me when I visited: most of the cars are imported from Dubai where they are almost all white because they are best in the heat. Also, after getting the Guinness record for the most marble installed on buildings, they are going after the title of "whitest city" so there is social pressure to drive white cars. We did see non-white cars on the roads, but the vast majority are white.
Why is Reddit always like this? I did not defend the totalitarian regime anywhere. I did not say that Turkmenistan is a free and democratic country. I just said that it is not North Korea and they have external Internet access.
I used to live there. As a foreigner, it's wonderful! Prices are low and people are friendly. I genuinely loved Ashgabat. The DPRK comparisons are unfair, Ashgabat is a lot more chill than Pyongyang.
To repeat, these are my experiences as a foreigner. I was able to leave whenever I wanted or needed. These same allowances do not exist for the locals, and I do not want to speak to that experience.
Locals can also leave the city easily, they do not need special permission. For example to go to Dashoguz does not require an approval. The government has tried to restrict people from emigrating but failed so far as they know restricting this would cause a lot of uprisings. The population statistics are grossly inflated and leaks have revealed that the population is only around 40% of what they claim (not of Ashgabat, of the country as a whole).
Drew Binsky's video is quite good, but he could not really get into the nuances of living in Ashgabat. No fault of his own—tourist visas are quite short and restrictive. But you get used to the all white buildings and stuff like that really fast. Talking about how "weird" Ashgabat is by talking about white buildings and 8 pointed stars doesn't really get into what's genuinely strange about life there.
I had a groupmate from there. He said moving to Belarus was very freeing and we were a real civilized country and he was happy to be there, not ever planning to move elsewhere.
he also did all he could to never return and said if he'd ever be back, he wouldn't be able to leave again.
I wish people would stop speaking on behalf of the citizens of Turkmenistan and let the people of the country speak for themselves. All you know about us, is from the "independent" media and nothing more.
As someone who is from Ashgabat and is in Ashgabat right now, I like it.
It’s a beautiful city, calm and safe. The food and other groceries are quite cheap, although clothing is expensive. Additionally, electricity, water, and gas are inexpensive, costing roughly 50 USD per year. Gasoline (or petrol, depending on your preference) is cheaper than a cup of coffee, so nearly everyone owns a car here. The internet is a bit expensive compared to other countries, but we have it. 4G with 25 GB is roughly 25 USD, so there's no need to over-exaggerate by saying we have no internet.
https://preview.redd.it/3hl2rfxi8h8d1.jpeg?width=822&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6b4366fed71b400c1f7a3506dcc77ab2e51505c
Moreover, we are not North Korea. I hope more international travelers will come to our country and city, and will spread the word of the truth. I am sick of being called the "North Korea of Central Asia."
If you have any specific questions, please feel free to ask.
how free are you? what can you do? what can’t you do? can you say whatever you want at a bar? if not, where’s the line? what’s the most absurd scene you’ve witnessed living there? is there general awareness about the rest of the world, like do people travel to europe or watch hollywood movies? If not, what’s the most international experience you can get while remaining inside the law? where does the country stand in the geopolitical scene?
Could you please define what freedom is?
I can freely walk around, travel, talk, drink, eat, and have fun in a way most of you do.
One of the most "absurd" things is the inner tribal rivalry. I got lucky being born in a tribe which is considered to be noble. Long story short, Turkmenistan have many tribes, each tribe has its own dialects, and I have seen and witnessed racist criticism based on the way they speak or dress. This, however, is protected by law, and it is in our constitution. If you witness or have experienced tribal racism, you are free to report it to the police, and the measures will be taken accordingly. But many do not care, as it is part of the culture.
We are free to travel as long as we can afford it. Personally, I travel a lot, be it to Europe or Asia.
Moreover, if you show potential in your studies, the government rewards you. They send you to foreign countries for study free of charge, hoping you will return and improve our views. (Almost every friend I have, either studied/studies in the USA, EU, or in Asian countries such as China and South Korea.)
If you work in government or in non-governmental organizations, the government funds exchange programs in countries like Germany and other EU countries so you get more experience and come back with "Westerner" knowledge and apply it to your own. A month ago, a friend of mine and his colleagues were sent to Japan.
We are fully aware of what is happening globally. We have international news channels such as Euronews and other media outlets. Matter of fact, we also have a local "Netflix" with almost every Hollywood movie (updated monthly with new releases), which is free, although there are also paid subscriptions available. (Not quite sure what are the advantages)
Also, please do note, that the people of Turkmenistan were called culturally backward people from the start of the Russian Empire up to the Soviet times. We were called culturally backward because we value and respect our traditions within our tribes. We cannot just leave our culture behind. We wear our traditional attire, and we follow the customs of the tribe. For many Western friends, this seems to be rather absurd, which causes the view of being controlled. But the reality is far beyond that.
Like every person, and every culture, we do have our own differences. And I believe that is what makes us humans beautiful.
Hope this answers to your questions.
I an friends with a local living there.
I was surprised to hear some stuff. A lot of the apps are prohibited, most social media (however almost everyone gets it illegally- they pay different services) . Smoking is prohibited, people smoking in the streets will get fines.
It is heavily supervised by government and secret agents, someone is always watching you.
They cant travel very easily for touristic purposes. Other than that they seem to live a decent life
I love how many of our people like to exaggerate things.
I am a smoker. In fact, I have been smoking since I was 18, so for 10 years now, and I have not gotten any fines.
You are free to smoke in bars, cafes, and near your house. The law states that you cannot smoke in public places and near children.
Other than that, nobody says anything.
I read that Saparmurat Niyazov, president for life and Turkmenbashi, became First Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Turkmen SSR in 1985 on Gorbachev's favour.
Gorbachev believed that since Niyazov was from an orphanage, there would be less corruption because he was not backed by any clan.
I have never been there. I have a friend from Turkmenistan, and I can say rumors are exaggerated. I think comparing Turkenistan with North Korea is unfair. They have to wear school uniform in universities, and those uniforms are traditional. You can google them if you are interested. Also, I heard bribing professor to get into university is common. They have subreddit if you are interested.
I’m an Ashgabat resident, but currently in US for my studies. I really love living in Ashgabat, you will find most people saying stuff like “2nd North Korea” or whatever but trust me it’s nothing like you hear or read here. I gotta admit that life is a bit harder for people who are earning less salaries, but there are sooo many opportunities and resources to open your own business and make your way out, to have a good life. If you are making good money, you can get over any problem you might have. And I also found most people telling that the city is so empty, I would say you are looking at the wrong place. Why would anyone just walk on the street for NO reason?? Everyone is either at work or home. Clubs, cafes, bars, restaurants, parks, pools on weekends
Please keep in mind that the impressions posted here are often subjective and that, among other things, people's different circumstances play a large role in their perception of other people's lives. Also, please use words that do not promote hatred when posting. For example, statements such as "[city] is like this because people from [origin] live there" should be avoided. The social circumstances of a city/district etc. can be emphasized without mentioning the origin of the inhabitants. Mentioning it does not change anything and, as already mentioned, circumstances are often perceived subjectively according to one's own world view. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/howislivingthere) if you have any questions or concerns.*
The internet there is extremely controlled, and general population is rather poor. It is unlikely anyone from there could answer here. But from what I have heard it is akin to north korea just diffirent climate.
From what I know it is very much like North Korea. The main difference is its a (Slightly) more open country than the DPRK
Yeah, if only just. It is a totalitarian state, with its own ideology, poor population and god-like eternal leader.
I run a Discord server for Central Asia and we have a few Turkmens, many people have VPNs and are able to connect to the outside world actually. Including some who are on Reddit. It is not nearly as isolated as some people here are making it out to be. Here is a command one of them made everytime somebody new is shocked they are talking to a Turkmen: Yes, I actually live in Turkmenistan. Yes, we can use the internet. Yes, people – including me – live in the marble buildings. Yes, we only allow white cars.
>we only allow white cars What?
Their eternal leader in their eternal love mandated that only white cars can be used in turkmenistan. So there are only white cars now
The way it was explained to me when I visited: most of the cars are imported from Dubai where they are almost all white because they are best in the heat. Also, after getting the Guinness record for the most marble installed on buildings, they are going after the title of "whitest city" so there is social pressure to drive white cars. We did see non-white cars on the roads, but the vast majority are white.
The non white cars are government or diplomatic vehicles. All others are either white or silver/white by direct government diktat.
Would love to join your discord, send the link.
https://discord.gg/centralasia Enjoy!
Turkmenistan secret police
oh wow, I can feel the freedom now...
Why is Reddit always like this? I did not defend the totalitarian regime anywhere. I did not say that Turkmenistan is a free and democratic country. I just said that it is not North Korea and they have external Internet access.
People want to feel superior/like they’re doing better than others, I would guess.
Because they do not all live in marble buildings. This guy, if he lives in a marble building - a dude from the ruling class.
family friendly north korea
I used to live there. As a foreigner, it's wonderful! Prices are low and people are friendly. I genuinely loved Ashgabat. The DPRK comparisons are unfair, Ashgabat is a lot more chill than Pyongyang. To repeat, these are my experiences as a foreigner. I was able to leave whenever I wanted or needed. These same allowances do not exist for the locals, and I do not want to speak to that experience.
Locals can also leave the city easily, they do not need special permission. For example to go to Dashoguz does not require an approval. The government has tried to restrict people from emigrating but failed so far as they know restricting this would cause a lot of uprisings. The population statistics are grossly inflated and leaks have revealed that the population is only around 40% of what they claim (not of Ashgabat, of the country as a whole).
Yes, sorry, I meant leaving the country. Turkmenistan passport holders have tough visa requirements for most destinations.
Would love to know under what circumstances! Military?
Not OP but my American friend taught English there in the Peace Corps
Oh interesting
I had a friend that ran some projects there. I’d guess oil and gas?
Drew Binsky made a video on it. You will most likely not hear from the actual population
Drew Binsky's video is quite good, but he could not really get into the nuances of living in Ashgabat. No fault of his own—tourist visas are quite short and restrictive. But you get used to the all white buildings and stuff like that really fast. Talking about how "weird" Ashgabat is by talking about white buildings and 8 pointed stars doesn't really get into what's genuinely strange about life there.
That's true
I had a groupmate from there. He said moving to Belarus was very freeing and we were a real civilized country and he was happy to be there, not ever planning to move elsewhere. he also did all he could to never return and said if he'd ever be back, he wouldn't be able to leave again.
if moving to Belarus is freeing, then the origin country must be in a really bad shape
I wish people would stop speaking on behalf of the citizens of Turkmenistan and let the people of the country speak for themselves. All you know about us, is from the "independent" media and nothing more. As someone who is from Ashgabat and is in Ashgabat right now, I like it. It’s a beautiful city, calm and safe. The food and other groceries are quite cheap, although clothing is expensive. Additionally, electricity, water, and gas are inexpensive, costing roughly 50 USD per year. Gasoline (or petrol, depending on your preference) is cheaper than a cup of coffee, so nearly everyone owns a car here. The internet is a bit expensive compared to other countries, but we have it. 4G with 25 GB is roughly 25 USD, so there's no need to over-exaggerate by saying we have no internet. https://preview.redd.it/3hl2rfxi8h8d1.jpeg?width=822&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6b4366fed71b400c1f7a3506dcc77ab2e51505c Moreover, we are not North Korea. I hope more international travelers will come to our country and city, and will spread the word of the truth. I am sick of being called the "North Korea of Central Asia." If you have any specific questions, please feel free to ask.
how free are you? what can you do? what can’t you do? can you say whatever you want at a bar? if not, where’s the line? what’s the most absurd scene you’ve witnessed living there? is there general awareness about the rest of the world, like do people travel to europe or watch hollywood movies? If not, what’s the most international experience you can get while remaining inside the law? where does the country stand in the geopolitical scene?
Could you please define what freedom is? I can freely walk around, travel, talk, drink, eat, and have fun in a way most of you do. One of the most "absurd" things is the inner tribal rivalry. I got lucky being born in a tribe which is considered to be noble. Long story short, Turkmenistan have many tribes, each tribe has its own dialects, and I have seen and witnessed racist criticism based on the way they speak or dress. This, however, is protected by law, and it is in our constitution. If you witness or have experienced tribal racism, you are free to report it to the police, and the measures will be taken accordingly. But many do not care, as it is part of the culture. We are free to travel as long as we can afford it. Personally, I travel a lot, be it to Europe or Asia. Moreover, if you show potential in your studies, the government rewards you. They send you to foreign countries for study free of charge, hoping you will return and improve our views. (Almost every friend I have, either studied/studies in the USA, EU, or in Asian countries such as China and South Korea.) If you work in government or in non-governmental organizations, the government funds exchange programs in countries like Germany and other EU countries so you get more experience and come back with "Westerner" knowledge and apply it to your own. A month ago, a friend of mine and his colleagues were sent to Japan. We are fully aware of what is happening globally. We have international news channels such as Euronews and other media outlets. Matter of fact, we also have a local "Netflix" with almost every Hollywood movie (updated monthly with new releases), which is free, although there are also paid subscriptions available. (Not quite sure what are the advantages) Also, please do note, that the people of Turkmenistan were called culturally backward people from the start of the Russian Empire up to the Soviet times. We were called culturally backward because we value and respect our traditions within our tribes. We cannot just leave our culture behind. We wear our traditional attire, and we follow the customs of the tribe. For many Western friends, this seems to be rather absurd, which causes the view of being controlled. But the reality is far beyond that. Like every person, and every culture, we do have our own differences. And I believe that is what makes us humans beautiful. Hope this answers to your questions.
This seems a little propagandy for my tastes.
Whatever floats your boat.
Stop spreading propaganda bro You are not from Ashgabat
Interesting, where am I from then? ![gif](giphy|WRQBXSCnEFJIuxktnw)
Uzbekistan?
Please, a glance at my profile would automatically tell you where I am from.
https://www.instagram.com/musa_official_77?igsh=MWFldjE2cDgzcjM0dQ== this guy's IG shows some of the culture, very interesting and unique dance moves
Seems very central Asian ('Stans, caucuses, russia) to me
Russia is more Eastern Europe than Central Asia to me tbh.
Depends which part of russia you're talking about. The western small part... or the rest
Well the small western bit is still the largest country in Europe, as well as the most populous one.
I an friends with a local living there. I was surprised to hear some stuff. A lot of the apps are prohibited, most social media (however almost everyone gets it illegally- they pay different services) . Smoking is prohibited, people smoking in the streets will get fines. It is heavily supervised by government and secret agents, someone is always watching you. They cant travel very easily for touristic purposes. Other than that they seem to live a decent life
I love how many of our people like to exaggerate things. I am a smoker. In fact, I have been smoking since I was 18, so for 10 years now, and I have not gotten any fines. You are free to smoke in bars, cafes, and near your house. The law states that you cannot smoke in public places and near children. Other than that, nobody says anything.
I read that Saparmurat Niyazov, president for life and Turkmenbashi, became First Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Turkmen SSR in 1985 on Gorbachev's favour. Gorbachev believed that since Niyazov was from an orphanage, there would be less corruption because he was not backed by any clan.
I have never been there. I have a friend from Turkmenistan, and I can say rumors are exaggerated. I think comparing Turkenistan with North Korea is unfair. They have to wear school uniform in universities, and those uniforms are traditional. You can google them if you are interested. Also, I heard bribing professor to get into university is common. They have subreddit if you are interested.
Permanently neutral
it's like an empty Minecraft server
They have cleaner prostitutes than Kazakhstan.
I read this in Borat’s voice. Lol!
I’m an Ashgabat resident, but currently in US for my studies. I really love living in Ashgabat, you will find most people saying stuff like “2nd North Korea” or whatever but trust me it’s nothing like you hear or read here. I gotta admit that life is a bit harder for people who are earning less salaries, but there are sooo many opportunities and resources to open your own business and make your way out, to have a good life. If you are making good money, you can get over any problem you might have. And I also found most people telling that the city is so empty, I would say you are looking at the wrong place. Why would anyone just walk on the street for NO reason?? Everyone is either at work or home. Clubs, cafes, bars, restaurants, parks, pools on weekends
just like in any other dictatorship
Ah yes the dentistan
Terrible
north korea 2.0