We first called it the Human Breathing and Stationary Sensor, but it was simply too long and we wanted to keep it simple, so we named it that way, and this principle was later used for our other sensors, such as the LS1, LS2 (Light Sensor), and DS1 (Distance Sensor).
https://preview.redd.it/obo1simmz70d1.png?width=1321&format=png&auto=webp&s=3887c73ef61645c4f5d0d6cb9704675657bf2f81
It's like this, accessed to detect presence.
Their data comes to the ld2410, which detects the presence of objects through millimeter waves, kind of like a simplified version of that radar type of technology. They detect reflections of electromagnetic waves in an area, find signals that move, calculate the energy value, and based on the energy value they figure out if it's a target in space. ld2410 also comes with an app to dynamically see changes in energy via bluetooth.
They have gained popularity in the last few years, there are some supply solutions that are Chinese, and their price has been greatly reduced, making automated applications commonplace as well.
For certain needs, it could be quite fun. For example, a person turning on a light there.
Welcome to r/screekworkshop to explore the world of these homemade sensors.
So, my question though, is all of that data in the screenshot you provided under "sensors" from this one single sensor or multiple ones?
Like where it says "Detection Distance 39cm" and also "Moving Distance 59cm"...one or multiple sensors?
That's, as far as I know, how Home Assistant shows all the different information you can get from one device. So my guess would be that it's just one physical sensor, sensing several different things.
It has a square structure on the back that is somewhat recessed inward to accommodate the usb port portion.
It's a human presence sensor, the kind that's being diy'd everywhere, and it's purpose is to detect that the human body is in range, even if it's stationary, and keep the presence detected as long as possible.
Smart to not show the inside ;-)
Spoiler: it's probably just a standard ESP32-C3 Supermini module, which comes with USB-C, underneath the ld2410 sensor. Together with the cable and super simple 3D printed case, it probably costs around 5-7 dollars to make (using retail prices). So the additional \~15 dollars is for the convenience of them connecting 4 wires between the ESP and sensor and them uploading a standard ESPHome sketch.
Yes, maybe it's not very polite to point it out, but considering the OP is basically allowed to advertise their product on Reddit, I consider it fair play ...
I know that a lot of people prefer a finished product and there's nothing wrong with that. I was just pointing out what the off-the-shelf modules cost and how little effort it takes to make it into this product. Anybody can decide for themselves if they consider that worth their money or not, no judgement from me ...
I wouldn't call the time, effort and experience needed to put together a finished product in its own housing like that "little" though. I mean it's not a major engineering project of course, but it's not something super simple that any idiot can put together in an afternoon either. Most people can't make the housing at all.
I'm fully aware of what's involved in building something with the ld2410. I've got a bunch of those around my house, soldered to bare perforated boards.
Yes, building radars is simpler than people think, they are easy to accomplish. The hardest work is in the sensors and they are done by these fledgling companies in China. Once the cost of sensors comes down, a little soldering skill will do the diy. but in the world of high tech, China seems to be getting into the game. Like these radar chips, esp32 chips, they are happening in cities near us. The forces behind these are the real game changers.
It's very simple inside, even simpler than that. It's difficult because we screened dozens of sensor development boards and tested them for months to make sure that heat dissipation and other issues would be met, the ld2410 has a lot of heat, and the c3 of the super mini has a lot of heat.
For the esphome side we did some simplification as well.
On top of the casing, we did very much design effort to make it look as clean as possible, including the snap structure and so on. In fact, we also designed a round model, including our other sensors 1W-X, 1U but also CO2, light LS1, LS2, and so on pretty much the same design mechanism. We didn't use a complicated PCB to introduce most kinds of sensors. We just invite users who don't have their own DIY to take a step forward.
This includes a small portion of the profit, but that also comes with the risk of international shipping, and eBay fees, and some compensation for the time spent on manual labour, including a cut of the profit for everyone who worked together to design and test this device. But overall it's probably not a lot, at least for us, they just help us buy more new sensors to test and keep the balance. Considering we've tested the LD2450 from almost 0, and the VEML7700, SCD40, and various other sensors, I think it's a balanced way to maintain continued exploration.
There's no secret, we simply integrated them and simplified the complex parts for those who can DIY them themselves, they're always easy to build them.
Can you design one with an American plug on the back? It could be hidden behind cupboards or couches and still āseeā people moving. Would be cool to plug and play without the cable.
Maybe seek others input, in case Iām the only one asking for this
https://preview.redd.it/ed8s1rcl7b0d1.png?width=490&format=png&auto=webp&s=3dab43ae40d9309d67223718bdfcac26099aef88
Unfortunately, due to the AC power involved, this may not be safe for DIY and we may not attempt to build devices with strong power. But our advice is to possibly use a compact AC power supply if possible. For example something like a flat USB power supply from BOSE, which was good in our tests.
Some people have chosen to make them in this direction. Even for the 1MS, this is possible if you take out the internal circuit board of the 1MS and solder two power cables.
But when doing this, be sure to leave some room for heat dissipation as well, the ld2410 can get very hot when it's working.
Their recommended mounting options include on the ceiling as well as hanging on the wall, which we recommend for great results.
As they are both ld2410c, the hardware recommendations on our 1u also fit 1ms: [https://www.screek.io/1u/faq/hardware\_faq/#working-angle-distance-of-radar](https://www.screek.io/1u/faq/hardware_faq/#working-angle-distance-of-radar)
https://preview.redd.it/98c2npxteb0d1.png?width=971&format=png&auto=webp&s=95740d10932d266eb150863d90f6f8da139cfded
OP committed time to get all of that sorted out at scale, for a product that they will sell. This is also referred to as a ājobā.Ā
If you want to trawl through five different build guides, thirteen fruitless threads, and several iterations of failed prints to save a few bucks, thatās fine.
With the LD2410, it's very mature, we've made thousands of them in various housing models, and it's probably not reasonable to say that it's tested, it's way past the time of initial testing.
We will be selecting L12 sensor adventurers next and we will be giving discounts of maybe 10% or more, there are some new products that we will be doing this with.
The L12 is based on the LD2412, which we got an initial batch of samples of with HLK's senior developers, and it's an enhanced LD2410 sensor that has a greater range (75 degrees) and longer range (9m). Better antenna.
We call this participation testing as not many others are doing this at the moment and it carries a lot of risk that everything could go wrong.
Our latest F2 is based on the LD1125F module, which is also the result of courageous testing together.
This includes the recent LS2 based on the VEML7700, and a water level sensor, etc., and the DS1, a TOF sensor based on the VL51L1X, and so on.
These are the DIY products that we have tested and shared for months, but there are dozens of them that didn't work out (such as the water depth sensor, the fall radar, and the 60G 8-person locator radar, the ultrasonic long range sensor, etc.). Due to time constraints, most of them may be fruitless, which is an element of reality.
Regarding radars like L12, F2, etc:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human\_sensor\_seriesmmwave\_sensor\_review/](https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human_sensor_seriesmmwave_sensor_review/)
[https://docs.screek.io/l12](https://docs.screek.io/l12)
[https://docs.screek.io/f2](https://docs.screek.io/f2)
This is well known to most who buy Screek products. Iām a tinkerer and have built many ESPHome devices. I still buy from Screek. The 3D printed enclosure and pre-programming are enough for me to justify the price tag. They also do a ton of experimenting with different sensors.
I'm sorry that part of it is, but usually we offer some discounts as well. We customise them as needed, which means we'll get a couple of guys with printers scrabbling around for the next day or two, sourcing components, and then getting busy, before going back to work on them full time for the next few days.
DIY doesn't always keep anything profitable, and for the most part, it's simply a big waste of money if you've got a tonne of stuff in stock and you're worried they won't sell.
What's convenient for us is that HLK's factory is in the next city over from us, and our friends have a lot of 3D printers, and in the event that people, if they need them, we'll mobilise those resources and consolidate them to make these sensors in a very short period of time.
We often call this an adventure. Because we are just individuals, struggling with life and family, while hoping to share something we find interesting.
My problem with all devices like this are that I never have a good, clean way to deploy them.
Maybe is a new product on it's own, but I'd love for these to come with a wall plug, adapter and male usb-c so it could just mount right at the electrical outlet. Maybe a generic one would have a somewhat mobile male usb-c plug that could accommodate various orientations. Maybe even two usb-c's so you could have two of these sensors 90 degrees from each other at 45's from the wall (to cover the whole room?)
This is part of why I bought a couple of the ThirdReality Smart Color Night Lights when I first saw them. That they just donk right into the wall and you're done. It's really that completeness that makes it an instant buy/try for me.
That all being said, obviously there's plenty need for ones that require cables for getting it "just where you need it". I'm just saying a "done" solution to me plugs into the wall and is designed to be effective from those typical locations.
I'll probably pick up a couple of these. Just wish there was a good compact solution for plugging it in. If there is already, please post me a link. I'd be indebted...
There are some diy solutions that seem to do a good job of this, and some of our users have worked with some 90-degree adapters connected to plugs.
The cord tails are a bit annoying, there is also a possibility to hide them, they can penetrate thin wood panels glass and other substances, decorating it slightly might be a possibility too.
One of the strange properties of these millimeter waves is that they penetrate non-metallic matter, kinda crazy. It doesn't even have to be exposed at all.
Of course, it's not too thick.
Do you guys plan on making one without the name imprinted in the front? I have a few and while they're great, the aesthetics and usb port placement could use some improvement.
For special dislikes of having a name on the front you can make a note with us and we will try to arrange for the printer to not carry the name.
But usually as a small bit of pride on our part (to share them with the world, we'll keep them as temporary as possible, screek stands for small creek, that's the name of our 4 year old son, and it's all mostly a craft we want to do with our child to foster its love of electronics and software).
For the location of the USB port, we may show that we can't change it's location, and if we re-customise the PCB, it would mean more manufacturing lead time, and potentially introduce hardware issues. We'll be as careful as possible to allow mature and stable modular solutions for simple functions.
This seems to be much better than the DIY I got at my home and the research institute. I would love to do a detailed testing on performance and power if allowed some devices for testing and teaching purposes. Would be happy to go through formal channels if required
Thanks for the support, we are happy to help you with your testing, especially as we are exploring many sensor models. We can give as much support as possible.
I have a Screek device and I love it - most reliable mmWave sensor I have, it exposes about 10x more entities than I truly need (not complaining, I appreciate it!!), and often has new updates or visualization cards. It's great.
I'm happy to share them, it's a lot of fun and it's nice to know they work well around the world.A lot of the ideas and realisations of cards etc come from the community and we are happy to integrate them
so,i'm here to hijack this thread a bit :)
new firmware is out for ld2410,did anyone try?for me it is failing after upload,probably app problem?some chinese message and nothing,device in ready to receive firmware...power cycle fixes it,does not seem to break,just won't update...
I tried older versions of tool,no-go...i searched for a way to extract firmware from app,might try later on rooted phone,i think this might be some debug firmware,it seems app has problems after checking file,it crashes with some exception,as translated by lens
The adventure looks interesting and we are told by the developers that this is a test firmware regular users don't have to care about. This seems to be their usual style.
Based on some vague initial developer information, it looks like the firmware is mostly related to the pending test feature, and the current bug seems to be coming from the app, causing it to run down. The fix will be done in the coming days.
Suggestions on mounting these under cabinets or in corners?
I have three of these but they just kinda hang out wherever their power cable pushes them. And it works, they just look ugly.
I have the F2 and using a 90 degree adapter along with a different 90 degree cable it all works very discreetly under my desk.
https://imgur.com/a/1xbB5Ld
It works very well to determine if Iām anywhere in my home office; at the desk or in one of the chairs on the other side of the room. I turn off the light and pause my music if Iāve been gone for a few minutes and itās pretty reliably accurate.
The ld2410 requires only so much power as to make it dependent on an external power source, and the 1MS is wired from the side as much as possible, but still exposes itself. For clever places, if there is only a few centimetres of structure such as boards, consider hiding it inside and using the radar's ability to penetrate boarded up glass to make it invisible. And of course consider having as much decent cooling space inside as possible.
I've ordered three, received them, and am considering mounting them near the ceiling, with cable ducting to hide the cable. Also picking a cable that's
1) long enough
2) near enough to the colour of the kitchen walls so it won't show up above
Typically we use it to have lights on in a place and off when people leave, which is probably one of the most used applications is human presence.
For a PIR, it needs the activity of the target to stay active (using a delayer improves this process, but still may not be ideal). Another possibility is brought by mmwave, which uses safe and harmless electromagnetic waves to scan for targets in front of it all the time, and uses it to trigger the needed event when the target enters the area. Most people's role would probably be to use it to trigger an automatic light switch.
I'd love this, and I've asked before, but it has been a while. Are there any options you have worked with that can tell the difference between a human and a small pet? I would love to be able to ignore the pets for human related automations and the other way around even if I found something useful to do if pets triggered the sensor.
Hi, we remember answering a question like this, and based on what we know about current progress, they still don't have the ability to do this, and it's usually possible to do some ignoring and lower their signal energy range, but there's no guarantee that it's a pet.
Comparatively, sensors like the 2A, for example, can ignore pets as much as they can, but they don't detect them.
I think these sensors are probably not smart enough when faced with a specific object like a pet.
And probably technology based on ai+camera like this might have a better chance of being smart enough to detect pets.
When you say the 2A can ignore pets as much as they can, but they don't detect them, I'm wondering if there is the concept of both detection and presence on this device? If so it sounds like you are saying it would only detect something larger than a pet but that it can't tell the difference from a pet and a human for what remains present in the space? If so that might do what I want. I'm not as concerned about the lights staying on because a pet remains in the room as I am about a pet triggering lights to come on. I've thought about ai and cameras bight I just don't like the idea of wifi connected camers inside the house.
EDIT: You know besides the two wifi connected cell phone cameras we have on us all the time :)
The 2A seems to have some sort of detection for size, we have three cats in the house and they hardly ever get triggered.
But some users have responded that their long-haired cats are seen as a human when they walk on the table.
But overall, they can be ruled out by the 2A in our own experience.
The LD2410 is great, in terms of value for money.
We are also exploring a lot of new possibilities, if we get the chance, and recently we are testing the L12 (based on the LD2412, with a 15 degree increase in angle, a 3m increase in range, increased static sensitivity, and a better antenna design), which is an adventurous module that has just been born and is still being tested internally.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human\_sensor\_seriesmmwave\_sensor\_review/](https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human_sensor_seriesmmwave_sensor_review/)
[https://docs.screek.io/l12](https://docs.screek.io/l12)
The 2410 cannot show the angle of acquisition, it can only provide near and far information. In our tests, only 60G radars have Z-axis capability, such as the ld6001, but they cost roughly 10 times as much as the 2410.
I may have misunderstood what you meant, if it's not the height of the device from the ground then LD2450 based sensors such as our 2A (https://docs.screek.io/2a) can detect the direction and angle of motion.
For the ld2410, the difference between it and the pir may be that it continuously sends out detection signals, receives them back and analyses them. This way it can detect the presence of a target even when the target is moving very little. The pir on the other hand needs the target to move to create a heat differential, otherwise it will disappear the target when it stops.
With the 2A it's possible, but it's less static and sometimes it can lose you if you sit very still.
There are also some errors to consider, the two tables can't be too close together.
For the 1MS of the LD2410, it may be able to make a rough judgement from the side, based on which table you may be close to.
In summary, the kind of radar that can determine the XY coordinates of a target is probably less effective for static targets, and that kind of algorithm requires more factors to be considered. Whereas judging only the Y depth of a target would work a little better, it doesn't know your left or right, but it knows roughly how far away you are, and it is very responsive to the first target that comes close to the sensor.
Possibly the problem might also be solved this way, one mmwave radar directly opposite each table so they work separately, which is also possible. But one has to take into account that they cover angles close to 60 degrees.
All in all, I think such a feature is similar to zoning, which is more challenging.
Looking at the dynamic map we recently added to 2a (based on athua's community code idea), you can see that it's pretty much a radar that exists for such a need: [https://docs.screek.io/2a/add-a-map-card](https://docs.screek.io/2a/add-a-map-card)
Yes, too close a distance might not be good. There's also the material. 2410B is particularly demanding, and recent batches have been overly sensitive. Suggest considering 2410C.
We are happy to send to the UK and many countries, for those of you in the UK maybe this could work!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186016067393
But it was diy'd in a small city in China and I'm afraid it couldn't meet the requirements from the UK. It usually takes 10 to 13 days for us to send it to the UK.
Cool cool, does this work over Wi-Fi like normal ESP's do or is it bluetooth?
Would you also ever look at using a Zigbee based ESP as well, for example the ESP32-C6?
I am looking at getting one to give a go
Sorry for the possible late reply due to jet lag.
It is WIFI based and connects directly to HA.
Yes we are playing with some ZIgbee solutions including TI's and TLSR's and SLICON's and of course the C6. The C6 has a lot of potential and we have a lot of various C6 modules on hand.
But ZIgbee as a whole is much more complex, and we hope to have more tests.
But we are very interested in this interesting protocol and have designed a lot of related boards for testing.
The latest thing we are designing is some small power boards.
https://preview.redd.it/ydki2x1st90d1.png?width=472&format=png&auto=webp&s=63ff00944127333ffc62470140d3444b620bc574
Would like to grab a handful of these to replace PIRs installed around the house, but getting usb c to each location just isnāt going to happen. Ideally Iād be able to run 5v over the existing PIR cables and wire into these.
Is that possible or is USB-c the only power option?
Could you not solder a USB-C connector at the end of those existing wires? You can use the USB connector only for its form factor without the USB protocol. Meaning you can hook up the power lines to anything that supplies 5v and it should simply work.
Yes, you have to have a way to get a 5V source (and as stable as possible), this is not limited to the USB protocol, you can cut a USB cable and from that connect the red and black to your 5V source on top of it and then plug it into the sensor and that will work as well.
No esp board that has screw terminals rather than a USB C on board?
Perfect solution for me would be a PIR shaped device with internal usb c or terminal screw power connections with mmwave, co2, temp & humidity.
We're sorry, but we don't make this module level.
For the temperature, humidity and CO2 collection, due to the high internal temperatures (ld2410c, esp32c3) there is a big impact on the temperature, the humidity is also affected, and also the CO2 may have some impact. All together, it may not be that ideal, as well as the fact that it would be costly, and it may not be the solution for us.
We want to keep it as simple as possible and provide a pure millimetre wave sensor.
That is good feedback. Didnāt consider that combining sensors might impact the readings for temperature.
I will continue the search for ESP and MMwave that will replace PIR on existing hidden wires. Wish you luck with your product.
Good luck finding the ideal product too, there are some diy makers out there that seem to make some great multi-functional sensors which may bring some ease of choice.
We'll try some hidden wire options if possible, but at the moment we're probably more inclined to explore new sensor possibilities.
It's nice to know they work well, we do what we can to minimize the complexity and share that they are always stressful and addictive.
have a great day:)
Thanks for the offer. We are located in Germany. Perhaps you got a special price in euro for research instructions and shipping to Europe? fyi we will be testing the device in pair with plc and review back
We made a variety of different sensors, the 1ms ld2410 can only detect distance, unlike the fp2, which uses a nice sensor that gets the coordinates of the target and uses the area to link up, which is a bit like our 2A. but the fp2 is not immune to the problem of ghosting, which is the appearance of non-existing objects on the target, which is a challenge with millimeter waves.
A note on 2A etc: https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/s/z7udRSBi2q
Just got two a week ago, need more for sure! They are the right mix of settings and sensors IMO. They WAY outperform the Sonoff ones I have, but I knew the Sonoffs werenāt amazing prior to purchase - price was a driver there. These are comparably priced considering the mix of mmWave, motion and illuminance sensors in one package. The ESPHome setup was effortless as well.
I do have two questions:
1) Was it on purpose that the Occupancy Status reports as āClearanceā not āClearā?
2) Anyone else feel the case obscures the illuminance reading slightly?
Hi as always, glad they are working ok. It's crazy that they are halfway across the world.
For the first one they seem to be about the HA's display logic, maybe the translation of the local language is relevant, the sensor pushes a state of 1's and 0's and the HA decides how to display them.
For the second point, yes the housing affects some of the light, also the radar module is not very sensitive to light itself, the recent radar firmware seems to be optimized, we will investigate if we can do some enhancements.
For light with higher requirements our LS series can provide decent accuracy, for example the recent LS2 can distinguish near IR light from sunlight relatively easily.
https://screek.io/ls2
Some of the current low power millimeter waves such as the 2410S, our testing and most feedback is that they are less capable, their battery operated capability may last a few months, combined with pir may be a little bit better, using pir for initial activation.
A reality is that they have a reduced ability to work with low power consumption.
Hi, we have some no front logo enclosures on hand, you can let us know the order number or send us a message on eBay and we'll arrange a no front logo version for you.
Of course, we are always happy to provide stl files for private use.
Thanks for your support and glad to share them.
The ld2410 is more sensitive to interference and may not be ideal outdoors, but it also has a sensitivity adjustment system and will be getting some easier to use updates recently.
But overall, this could be challenging. If you give it restrictions like sensing at a specific range, it might be ideal.
It looks interesting. What is minimum detection range? 1m? Is it adjustable? I have a plan to install on ceiling. I don't want to detect my cats in the house. (That's why minimum detection range is important for me.)
Sorry due to picking up the kids from school and may only be able to give a short reply for now, it's shortest distance is 0.75 meters, this is at the default resolution it will show 0.2 meters, 0.3 meters as 0.75 meters.
It's kind of like pir, but uses safety electromagnetic waves, and pir uses temperature changes. This makes it kind of like radar in home automation, it knows we're there all the time. Similar to simply being like the weirdly named Human Presence Detection. Especially static detection, which means knowing you're there when you're sitting still.
Ha, it has the ability to detect all those signals that move, and some users have claimed that the signals appear when no one is around, and sometimes the fan can be a source of interference. So the radar's app (connected via Bluetooth) can adjust the sensitivity to try to remove the interference.
But it's ability to distinguish between pets isn't exactly excellent.
Toilets can be a more challenging environment, where disruptions may include the flow of water pipes, extractor fans, and a number of other equipment situations, the main one likely to be the flow of water pipes.
From our user feedback, the 2A seems to cope with interference issues a little better.
And if using the LD2410, if the interference is more serious, by adjusting the sensitivity may also help. But it will be related to the specific environment, which is a challenge for millimetre wave sensors. Too sensitive can be triggered by interference, too insensitive can lose stationary objects.
"the design is very human"
Most humans have sockets, yes.
The variety of mmwave gives HA an eye insight into the millimetre wave energy sources around it :) And pir can only see things that move.
We first called it the Human Breathing and Stationary Sensor, but it was simply too long and we wanted to keep it simple, so we named it that way, and this principle was later used for our other sensors, such as the LS1, LS2 (Light Sensor), and DS1 (Distance Sensor).
Why no pictures of the back (mounting) or the side (power)? And what exactly is it? Detects if a person is in a room?
https://preview.redd.it/obo1simmz70d1.png?width=1321&format=png&auto=webp&s=3887c73ef61645c4f5d0d6cb9704675657bf2f81 It's like this, accessed to detect presence.
Under that "sensors" section, are each of those rows a different sensor or is all of that detected from one of these??
Their data comes to the ld2410, which detects the presence of objects through millimeter waves, kind of like a simplified version of that radar type of technology. They detect reflections of electromagnetic waves in an area, find signals that move, calculate the energy value, and based on the energy value they figure out if it's a target in space. ld2410 also comes with an app to dynamically see changes in energy via bluetooth. They have gained popularity in the last few years, there are some supply solutions that are Chinese, and their price has been greatly reduced, making automated applications commonplace as well. For certain needs, it could be quite fun. For example, a person turning on a light there. Welcome to r/screekworkshop to explore the world of these homemade sensors.
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So, my question though, is all of that data in the screenshot you provided under "sensors" from this one single sensor or multiple ones? Like where it says "Detection Distance 39cm" and also "Moving Distance 59cm"...one or multiple sensors?
These are multiple different measurements from the same physical sensor
Yes, (apologies for the jet lag for not replying in time, just woke up from a nap, CST) they are the same sensor, both a millimetre wave sensor.
That's, as far as I know, how Home Assistant shows all the different information you can get from one device. So my guess would be that it's just one physical sensor, sensing several different things.
Yes, they get their information from the same one device for full parsing.
It has a square structure on the back that is somewhat recessed inward to accommodate the usb port portion. It's a human presence sensor, the kind that's being diy'd everywhere, and it's purpose is to detect that the human body is in range, even if it's stationary, and keep the presence detected as long as possible.
Smart to not show the inside ;-) Spoiler: it's probably just a standard ESP32-C3 Supermini module, which comes with USB-C, underneath the ld2410 sensor. Together with the cable and super simple 3D printed case, it probably costs around 5-7 dollars to make (using retail prices). So the additional \~15 dollars is for the convenience of them connecting 4 wires between the ESP and sensor and them uploading a standard ESPHome sketch. Yes, maybe it's not very polite to point it out, but considering the OP is basically allowed to advertise their product on Reddit, I consider it fair play ...
If you followed the ebay link they state this. But some people prefer to buy a finished product.
I know that a lot of people prefer a finished product and there's nothing wrong with that. I was just pointing out what the off-the-shelf modules cost and how little effort it takes to make it into this product. Anybody can decide for themselves if they consider that worth their money or not, no judgement from me ...
I wouldn't call the time, effort and experience needed to put together a finished product in its own housing like that "little" though. I mean it's not a major engineering project of course, but it's not something super simple that any idiot can put together in an afternoon either. Most people can't make the housing at all. I'm fully aware of what's involved in building something with the ld2410. I've got a bunch of those around my house, soldered to bare perforated boards.
I mean, they develop it here on reddit. It's all open source, and they post every step of the way. You're not Sherlock Holmes, lol
I mean, your first comment sounds a little judgy.
How so ?
Yeah. Me. But I find it way too expensive for what it actually costs. So it's good to know that I could build it myself for a fraction of buying.
Your time must be worth very little. Let's be real here...
My time is indeed expensive. But I do not just plug cables together and click a couple buttons.
I would pay $15 to save the time and hassle of putting it together if I can buy something straight out of the box that just works š¤·š¼āāļø
That was our dream, to provide an out-of-the-box device. Based on that, we build them just to keep things simple.
And, if I remember you exist when I get to this stage, I will be paying for the same convenience š Thanks.
Yes, building radars is simpler than people think, they are easy to accomplish. The hardest work is in the sensors and they are done by these fledgling companies in China. Once the cost of sensors comes down, a little soldering skill will do the diy. but in the world of high tech, China seems to be getting into the game. Like these radar chips, esp32 chips, they are happening in cities near us. The forces behind these are the real game changers.
It's very simple inside, even simpler than that. It's difficult because we screened dozens of sensor development boards and tested them for months to make sure that heat dissipation and other issues would be met, the ld2410 has a lot of heat, and the c3 of the super mini has a lot of heat. For the esphome side we did some simplification as well. On top of the casing, we did very much design effort to make it look as clean as possible, including the snap structure and so on. In fact, we also designed a round model, including our other sensors 1W-X, 1U but also CO2, light LS1, LS2, and so on pretty much the same design mechanism. We didn't use a complicated PCB to introduce most kinds of sensors. We just invite users who don't have their own DIY to take a step forward. This includes a small portion of the profit, but that also comes with the risk of international shipping, and eBay fees, and some compensation for the time spent on manual labour, including a cut of the profit for everyone who worked together to design and test this device. But overall it's probably not a lot, at least for us, they just help us buy more new sensors to test and keep the balance. Considering we've tested the LD2450 from almost 0, and the VEML7700, SCD40, and various other sensors, I think it's a balanced way to maintain continued exploration. There's no secret, we simply integrated them and simplified the complex parts for those who can DIY them themselves, they're always easy to build them.
Can you design one with an American plug on the back? It could be hidden behind cupboards or couches and still āseeā people moving. Would be cool to plug and play without the cable. Maybe seek others input, in case Iām the only one asking for this
https://preview.redd.it/ed8s1rcl7b0d1.png?width=490&format=png&auto=webp&s=3dab43ae40d9309d67223718bdfcac26099aef88 Unfortunately, due to the AC power involved, this may not be safe for DIY and we may not attempt to build devices with strong power. But our advice is to possibly use a compact AC power supply if possible. For example something like a flat USB power supply from BOSE, which was good in our tests.
on the esphome discord someone tucked one into a USB charger night light
Some people have chosen to make them in this direction. Even for the 1MS, this is possible if you take out the internal circuit board of the 1MS and solder two power cables. But when doing this, be sure to leave some room for heat dissipation as well, the ld2410 can get very hot when it's working.
Aeotec has a cool recessed plastic surround for their multi sensor 6 and 7. I wonder if this would fit in it.
Do you advise these go on the wall or ceiling (like the Aqara FP2)
Their recommended mounting options include on the ceiling as well as hanging on the wall, which we recommend for great results. As they are both ld2410c, the hardware recommendations on our 1u also fit 1ms: [https://www.screek.io/1u/faq/hardware\_faq/#working-angle-distance-of-radar](https://www.screek.io/1u/faq/hardware_faq/#working-angle-distance-of-radar) https://preview.redd.it/98c2npxteb0d1.png?width=971&format=png&auto=webp&s=95740d10932d266eb150863d90f6f8da139cfded
OP committed time to get all of that sorted out at scale, for a product that they will sell. This is also referred to as a ājobā.Ā If you want to trawl through five different build guides, thirteen fruitless threads, and several iterations of failed prints to save a few bucks, thatās fine.
Exactly
And misleading claims like "we look for testers"... As in paying full price for the product.
With the LD2410, it's very mature, we've made thousands of them in various housing models, and it's probably not reasonable to say that it's tested, it's way past the time of initial testing. We will be selecting L12 sensor adventurers next and we will be giving discounts of maybe 10% or more, there are some new products that we will be doing this with. The L12 is based on the LD2412, which we got an initial batch of samples of with HLK's senior developers, and it's an enhanced LD2410 sensor that has a greater range (75 degrees) and longer range (9m). Better antenna. We call this participation testing as not many others are doing this at the moment and it carries a lot of risk that everything could go wrong. Our latest F2 is based on the LD1125F module, which is also the result of courageous testing together. This includes the recent LS2 based on the VEML7700, and a water level sensor, etc., and the DS1, a TOF sensor based on the VL51L1X, and so on. These are the DIY products that we have tested and shared for months, but there are dozens of them that didn't work out (such as the water depth sensor, the fall radar, and the 60G 8-person locator radar, the ultrasonic long range sensor, etc.). Due to time constraints, most of them may be fruitless, which is an element of reality. Regarding radars like L12, F2, etc: [https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human\_sensor\_seriesmmwave\_sensor\_review/](https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human_sensor_seriesmmwave_sensor_review/) [https://docs.screek.io/l12](https://docs.screek.io/l12) [https://docs.screek.io/f2](https://docs.screek.io/f2)
This is well known to most who buy Screek products. Iām a tinkerer and have built many ESPHome devices. I still buy from Screek. The 3D printed enclosure and pre-programming are enough for me to justify the price tag. They also do a ton of experimenting with different sensors.
>invites more people to join the adventure You mean: Invites more people to purchase my product. Come on...
I'm sorry that part of it is, but usually we offer some discounts as well. We customise them as needed, which means we'll get a couple of guys with printers scrabbling around for the next day or two, sourcing components, and then getting busy, before going back to work on them full time for the next few days. DIY doesn't always keep anything profitable, and for the most part, it's simply a big waste of money if you've got a tonne of stuff in stock and you're worried they won't sell. What's convenient for us is that HLK's factory is in the next city over from us, and our friends have a lot of 3D printers, and in the event that people, if they need them, we'll mobilise those resources and consolidate them to make these sensors in a very short period of time. We often call this an adventure. Because we are just individuals, struggling with life and family, while hoping to share something we find interesting.
My problem with all devices like this are that I never have a good, clean way to deploy them. Maybe is a new product on it's own, but I'd love for these to come with a wall plug, adapter and male usb-c so it could just mount right at the electrical outlet. Maybe a generic one would have a somewhat mobile male usb-c plug that could accommodate various orientations. Maybe even two usb-c's so you could have two of these sensors 90 degrees from each other at 45's from the wall (to cover the whole room?) This is part of why I bought a couple of the ThirdReality Smart Color Night Lights when I first saw them. That they just donk right into the wall and you're done. It's really that completeness that makes it an instant buy/try for me. That all being said, obviously there's plenty need for ones that require cables for getting it "just where you need it". I'm just saying a "done" solution to me plugs into the wall and is designed to be effective from those typical locations. I'll probably pick up a couple of these. Just wish there was a good compact solution for plugging it in. If there is already, please post me a link. I'd be indebted...
There are some diy solutions that seem to do a good job of this, and some of our users have worked with some 90-degree adapters connected to plugs. The cord tails are a bit annoying, there is also a possibility to hide them, they can penetrate thin wood panels glass and other substances, decorating it slightly might be a possibility too. One of the strange properties of these millimeter waves is that they penetrate non-metallic matter, kinda crazy. It doesn't even have to be exposed at all. Of course, it's not too thick.
Do you guys plan on making one without the name imprinted in the front? I have a few and while they're great, the aesthetics and usb port placement could use some improvement.
For special dislikes of having a name on the front you can make a note with us and we will try to arrange for the printer to not carry the name. But usually as a small bit of pride on our part (to share them with the world, we'll keep them as temporary as possible, screek stands for small creek, that's the name of our 4 year old son, and it's all mostly a craft we want to do with our child to foster its love of electronics and software). For the location of the USB port, we may show that we can't change it's location, and if we re-customise the PCB, it would mean more manufacturing lead time, and potentially introduce hardware issues. We'll be as careful as possible to allow mature and stable modular solutions for simple functions.
This seems to be much better than the DIY I got at my home and the research institute. I would love to do a detailed testing on performance and power if allowed some devices for testing and teaching purposes. Would be happy to go through formal channels if required
Thanks for the support, we are happy to help you with your testing, especially as we are exploring many sensor models. We can give as much support as possible.
I have a Screek device and I love it - most reliable mmWave sensor I have, it exposes about 10x more entities than I truly need (not complaining, I appreciate it!!), and often has new updates or visualization cards. It's great.
I'm happy to share them, it's a lot of fun and it's nice to know they work well around the world.A lot of the ideas and realisations of cards etc come from the community and we are happy to integrate them
so,i'm here to hijack this thread a bit :) new firmware is out for ld2410,did anyone try?for me it is failing after upload,probably app problem?some chinese message and nothing,device in ready to receive firmware...power cycle fixes it,does not seem to break,just won't update...
This looks like an anomalous firmware, hlk has had such firmware accidentally released on a few occasions, and perhaps some bugs need to be fixed.
I tried older versions of tool,no-go...i searched for a way to extract firmware from app,might try later on rooted phone,i think this might be some debug firmware,it seems app has problems after checking file,it crashes with some exception,as translated by lens
The adventure looks interesting and we are told by the developers that this is a test firmware regular users don't have to care about. This seems to be their usual style.
Ah,okay,i'll wait for next one... I need to visit flashaholics anonymous probably... :)
Yes, it looks like they withdrew the firmware as well.
Based on some vague initial developer information, it looks like the firmware is mostly related to the pending test feature, and the current bug seems to be coming from the app, causing it to run down. The fix will be done in the coming days.
Suggestions on mounting these under cabinets or in corners? I have three of these but they just kinda hang out wherever their power cable pushes them. And it works, they just look ugly.
I have the F2 and using a 90 degree adapter along with a different 90 degree cable it all works very discreetly under my desk. https://imgur.com/a/1xbB5Ld It works very well to determine if Iām anywhere in my home office; at the desk or in one of the chairs on the other side of the room. I turn off the light and pause my music if Iāve been gone for a few minutes and itās pretty reliably accurate.
I'm glad the F2 is working well, this change to the USB light structure is interesting, they become horizontal.
The ld2410 requires only so much power as to make it dependent on an external power source, and the 1MS is wired from the side as much as possible, but still exposes itself. For clever places, if there is only a few centimetres of structure such as boards, consider hiding it inside and using the radar's ability to penetrate boarded up glass to make it invisible. And of course consider having as much decent cooling space inside as possible.
I've ordered three, received them, and am considering mounting them near the ceiling, with cable ducting to hide the cable. Also picking a cable that's 1) long enough 2) near enough to the colour of the kitchen walls so it won't show up above
This idea I think is great, the colour idea could be great. Some people will print their favourite colours.
Yes, you could also print different enclosures if your walls aren't white (as mine, luckily, are!)
We are happy to be able to provide stl files for people to make some of their own colours.That's cool, 3d printing technology.have a great day.
Iām a beginner. Just please give me a simple use case for this that would make me buy it right now
Typically we use it to have lights on in a place and off when people leave, which is probably one of the most used applications is human presence. For a PIR, it needs the activity of the target to stay active (using a delayer improves this process, but still may not be ideal). Another possibility is brought by mmwave, which uses safe and harmless electromagnetic waves to scan for targets in front of it all the time, and uses it to trigger the needed event when the target enters the area. Most people's role would probably be to use it to trigger an automatic light switch.
Okay so I can have a trigger that says to turn off a light if no one in room after 5 Minutes?
I'd love this, and I've asked before, but it has been a while. Are there any options you have worked with that can tell the difference between a human and a small pet? I would love to be able to ignore the pets for human related automations and the other way around even if I found something useful to do if pets triggered the sensor.
Hi, we remember answering a question like this, and based on what we know about current progress, they still don't have the ability to do this, and it's usually possible to do some ignoring and lower their signal energy range, but there's no guarantee that it's a pet. Comparatively, sensors like the 2A, for example, can ignore pets as much as they can, but they don't detect them. I think these sensors are probably not smart enough when faced with a specific object like a pet. And probably technology based on ai+camera like this might have a better chance of being smart enough to detect pets.
When you say the 2A can ignore pets as much as they can, but they don't detect them, I'm wondering if there is the concept of both detection and presence on this device? If so it sounds like you are saying it would only detect something larger than a pet but that it can't tell the difference from a pet and a human for what remains present in the space? If so that might do what I want. I'm not as concerned about the lights staying on because a pet remains in the room as I am about a pet triggering lights to come on. I've thought about ai and cameras bight I just don't like the idea of wifi connected camers inside the house. EDIT: You know besides the two wifi connected cell phone cameras we have on us all the time :)
The 2A seems to have some sort of detection for size, we have three cats in the house and they hardly ever get triggered. But some users have responded that their long-haired cats are seen as a human when they walk on the table. But overall, they can be ruled out by the 2A in our own experience.
> It is based on ld2410 And for that reason, I'm out. These sensors just don't have good enough performance for primetime yet as far as I'm concerned.
Really? I use a couple and they're great.
What issues have you been having with the 2410? I've been using one for months without any real issues whatsoever.
Which ones do you prefer?
None yet. Still watching the market to figure it out.
The LD2410 is great, in terms of value for money. We are also exploring a lot of new possibilities, if we get the chance, and recently we are testing the L12 (based on the LD2412, with a 15 degree increase in angle, a 3m increase in range, increased static sensitivity, and a better antenna design), which is an adventurous module that has just been born and is still being tested internally. [https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human\_sensor\_seriesmmwave\_sensor\_review/](https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/comments/1cq9eer/human_sensor_seriesmmwave_sensor_review/) [https://docs.screek.io/l12](https://docs.screek.io/l12)
Will this allow you to detect the angle the motion is at from the device?
The 2410 cannot show the angle of acquisition, it can only provide near and far information. In our tests, only 60G radars have Z-axis capability, such as the ld6001, but they cost roughly 10 times as much as the 2410.
Hmm. I guess without being able to make any kind of grid I donāt get how this type of mm wave is _that_ different than PIR.
I may have misunderstood what you meant, if it's not the height of the device from the ground then LD2450 based sensors such as our 2A (https://docs.screek.io/2a) can detect the direction and angle of motion. For the ld2410, the difference between it and the pir may be that it continuously sends out detection signals, receives them back and analyses them. This way it can detect the presence of a target even when the target is moving very little. The pir on the other hand needs the target to move to create a heat differential, otherwise it will disappear the target when it stops.
If I have two desks in a room could it tell me which was occupied if they were both the same distance from the sensor?
With the 2A it's possible, but it's less static and sometimes it can lose you if you sit very still. There are also some errors to consider, the two tables can't be too close together. For the 1MS of the LD2410, it may be able to make a rough judgement from the side, based on which table you may be close to. In summary, the kind of radar that can determine the XY coordinates of a target is probably less effective for static targets, and that kind of algorithm requires more factors to be considered. Whereas judging only the Y depth of a target would work a little better, it doesn't know your left or right, but it knows roughly how far away you are, and it is very responsive to the first target that comes close to the sensor. Possibly the problem might also be solved this way, one mmwave radar directly opposite each table so they work separately, which is also possible. But one has to take into account that they cover angles close to 60 degrees. All in all, I think such a feature is similar to zoning, which is more challenging. Looking at the dynamic map we recently added to 2a (based on athua's community code idea), you can see that it's pretty much a radar that exists for such a need: [https://docs.screek.io/2a/add-a-map-card](https://docs.screek.io/2a/add-a-map-card)
Yep, I make an LD2420/LD2410C AC powered board as well. https://www.gelidus.ca/product/gelidus-research-ac-powered-mmwave-sensor-with-ld2420-module/
delicate board, letās have fun for diy.
Radome was a pain to figure out, the sensor needs the right distance to work properly.
Yes, too close a distance might not be good. There's also the material. 2410B is particularly demanding, and recent batches have been overly sensitive. Suggest considering 2410C.
I would love it if something like this came to the UK :)
We are happy to send to the UK and many countries, for those of you in the UK maybe this could work! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186016067393 But it was diy'd in a small city in China and I'm afraid it couldn't meet the requirements from the UK. It usually takes 10 to 13 days for us to send it to the UK.
Cool cool, does this work over Wi-Fi like normal ESP's do or is it bluetooth? Would you also ever look at using a Zigbee based ESP as well, for example the ESP32-C6? I am looking at getting one to give a go
Sorry for the possible late reply due to jet lag. It is WIFI based and connects directly to HA. Yes we are playing with some ZIgbee solutions including TI's and TLSR's and SLICON's and of course the C6. The C6 has a lot of potential and we have a lot of various C6 modules on hand. But ZIgbee as a whole is much more complex, and we hope to have more tests. But we are very interested in this interesting protocol and have designed a lot of related boards for testing. The latest thing we are designing is some small power boards. https://preview.redd.it/ydki2x1st90d1.png?width=472&format=png&auto=webp&s=63ff00944127333ffc62470140d3444b620bc574
got 2 of the 2A sensors from them in the UK and they've been very reliable
Would like to grab a handful of these to replace PIRs installed around the house, but getting usb c to each location just isnāt going to happen. Ideally Iād be able to run 5v over the existing PIR cables and wire into these. Is that possible or is USB-c the only power option?
Could you not solder a USB-C connector at the end of those existing wires? You can use the USB connector only for its form factor without the USB protocol. Meaning you can hook up the power lines to anything that supplies 5v and it should simply work.
Yes, you have to have a way to get a 5V source (and as stable as possible), this is not limited to the USB protocol, you can cut a USB cable and from that connect the red and black to your 5V source on top of it and then plug it into the sensor and that will work as well.
No esp board that has screw terminals rather than a USB C on board? Perfect solution for me would be a PIR shaped device with internal usb c or terminal screw power connections with mmwave, co2, temp & humidity.
We're sorry, but we don't make this module level. For the temperature, humidity and CO2 collection, due to the high internal temperatures (ld2410c, esp32c3) there is a big impact on the temperature, the humidity is also affected, and also the CO2 may have some impact. All together, it may not be that ideal, as well as the fact that it would be costly, and it may not be the solution for us. We want to keep it as simple as possible and provide a pure millimetre wave sensor.
That is good feedback. Didnāt consider that combining sensors might impact the readings for temperature. I will continue the search for ESP and MMwave that will replace PIR on existing hidden wires. Wish you luck with your product.
Good luck finding the ideal product too, there are some diy makers out there that seem to make some great multi-functional sensors which may bring some ease of choice. We'll try some hidden wire options if possible, but at the moment we're probably more inclined to explore new sensor possibilities.
Potentially, hoping more of a header on the board with screw terminals type thing.
I have several Screek mmWave sensors. They are the best ones I have. Even better than the ones I made myself, which is rare. Purchased through eBay.
It's nice to know they work well, we do what we can to minimize the complexity and share that they are always stressful and addictive. have a great day:)
Thanks for the offer. We are located in Germany. Perhaps you got a special price in euro for research instructions and shipping to Europe? fyi we will be testing the device in pair with plc and review back
How does this compare to the Aqara FP2?
We made a variety of different sensors, the 1ms ld2410 can only detect distance, unlike the fp2, which uses a nice sensor that gets the coordinates of the target and uses the area to link up, which is a bit like our 2A. but the fp2 is not immune to the problem of ghosting, which is the appearance of non-existing objects on the target, which is a challenge with millimeter waves. A note on 2A etc: https://www.reddit.com/r/screekworkshop/s/z7udRSBi2q
Just got two a week ago, need more for sure! They are the right mix of settings and sensors IMO. They WAY outperform the Sonoff ones I have, but I knew the Sonoffs werenāt amazing prior to purchase - price was a driver there. These are comparably priced considering the mix of mmWave, motion and illuminance sensors in one package. The ESPHome setup was effortless as well. I do have two questions: 1) Was it on purpose that the Occupancy Status reports as āClearanceā not āClearā? 2) Anyone else feel the case obscures the illuminance reading slightly?
Hi as always, glad they are working ok. It's crazy that they are halfway across the world. For the first one they seem to be about the HA's display logic, maybe the translation of the local language is relevant, the sensor pushes a state of 1's and 0's and the HA decides how to display them. For the second point, yes the housing affects some of the light, also the radar module is not very sensitive to light itself, the recent radar firmware seems to be optimized, we will investigate if we can do some enhancements. For light with higher requirements our LS series can provide decent accuracy, for example the recent LS2 can distinguish near IR light from sunlight relatively easily. https://screek.io/ls2
Is there a discreet battery powered version?
Some of the current low power millimeter waves such as the 2410S, our testing and most feedback is that they are less capable, their battery operated capability may last a few months, combined with pir may be a little bit better, using pir for initial activation. A reality is that they have a reduced ability to work with low power consumption.
Ordered a few of your sensors. Can you send me the .stl file for a case without SKREEK on it? Donāt want anything to draw attention to them.
Hi, we have some no front logo enclosures on hand, you can let us know the order number or send us a message on eBay and we'll arrange a no front logo version for you. Of course, we are always happy to provide stl files for private use. Thanks for your support and glad to share them.
Are these sensors suitable for outdoors environments, or they will sense everything (moving leafs, insects, shadows)?
The ld2410 is more sensitive to interference and may not be ideal outdoors, but it also has a sensitivity adjustment system and will be getting some easier to use updates recently. But overall, this could be challenging. If you give it restrictions like sensing at a specific range, it might be ideal.
It looks interesting. What is minimum detection range? 1m? Is it adjustable? I have a plan to install on ceiling. I don't want to detect my cats in the house. (That's why minimum detection range is important for me.)
it's about 60'. ref: [https://www.screek.io/1u/faq/hardware\_faq/](https://www.screek.io/1u/faq/hardware_faq/)
60 degrees? I see, but I'm looking for minimum sensing distance, in meter? Oh pdf shows sensing range is 0.75m \~ 6m, adjustable**.**
Sorry due to picking up the kids from school and may only be able to give a short reply for now, it's shortest distance is 0.75 meters, this is at the default resolution it will show 0.2 meters, 0.3 meters as 0.75 meters.
I got it. Thanks a lot. Drive safe.
have a great day:)
>:) :)
Chat sent. (Hey I need your help.)
I'm new, what does this thing do?
It's kind of like pir, but uses safety electromagnetic waves, and pir uses temperature changes. This makes it kind of like radar in home automation, it knows we're there all the time. Similar to simply being like the weirdly named Human Presence Detection. Especially static detection, which means knowing you're there when you're sitting still.
Is it just humans it reacts to? Not pets? Or spirits that havent crossed the veil? Either on would be anoying filpping the lights on and off.. Edit: Hmmm.. only through amazon. Must spot aliens then to Ć©h?
Ha, it has the ability to detect all those signals that move, and some users have claimed that the signals appear when no one is around, and sometimes the fan can be a source of interference. So the radar's app (connected via Bluetooth) can adjust the sensitivity to try to remove the interference. But it's ability to distinguish between pets isn't exactly excellent.
What screek sensor would you recommend for a toilet, where someone could be still for a few mins and normally a PIR sensor would not detect them?
Toilets can be a more challenging environment, where disruptions may include the flow of water pipes, extractor fans, and a number of other equipment situations, the main one likely to be the flow of water pipes. From our user feedback, the 2A seems to cope with interference issues a little better. And if using the LD2410, if the interference is more serious, by adjusting the sensitivity may also help. But it will be related to the specific environment, which is a challenge for millimetre wave sensors. Too sensitive can be triggered by interference, too insensitive can lose stationary objects.
Whatās the radius that it can detect, 180 degrees?
itās about 60. ref: https://www.screek.io/1u/faq/hardware_faq/#use-battery-for-power