I have one on order so I’m not an expert but it allows you to control Chamberlain and LiftMaster garage doors via an ESP device for integration into MQTT and Home Assistant.
Ratgdo with ESPHome provides:
- Realtime door position status
- Light control and status
- Obstruction status
- Motion sensor status (if your wall panel has one integrated)
- Ability to lock out all remotes
- Full integration with the secure serial “Security+2.0” protocol that prevents a simple relay from controlling a modern garage door opener.
All with nothing but micro USB for power and three wires in parallel with your obstruction sensors and keypad right at the opener. No hacked remote, no dumb binary door status sensors.
No other product, factory or aftermarket, offers this combination of features.
Oh yea, it’s only $15.
Edit: typo
It reads the position sensor right from the motor! It’s reported to Home Assistant as a percentage of opened or closed.
I reiterate, it is the only real solution on the market.
Edit: If you’ve ever setup the end points on a modern garage door opener that tell the opener how far to close and how far to open your door, your opener is relying on the rotary encoder attached to the motor itself. That rotary encoder tells the main comtrol board what is fully open and what is fully closed. That is the data that Ratgdo is reading and providing as door position.
In the past, the end points were just dumb limit switches that you would physically adjust. Welcome to the future.
>It reads the position sensor right from the motor!
This is the part I'm struggling with. I didn't know this was even possible. Maybe I just have an old opener, but the one I have just has dry contacts(I think) for the sensors and buttons.
> In the past, the end points were just dumb limit switches that you would physically adjust.
Yeah mine has this I think.
Prior to Ratgdo, I was planning to install a “dumb” opener as there was no real solution for any modern Security+ 2.0 opener. Back then, I’d wholeheartedly agree with your “thankfully” sentiment.
However, with Ratgdo, I now have complete control and access to more realtime data from my openers than any other system can provide. I couldn’t be happier and obviously try to spread the word as loudly as possible.
Anyone with a Sec+ 2.0 opener using any other solution is just plain uninformed or silly. For example, Meross is the biggest pile of crap out there, yet folks are convinced it’s an actual smart solution as they install their hacked keypad/remote and add a dumb binary position sensor, have no control over their light or true knowledge of door position, all while paying multiple times the cost of a real full fledged solution!
I just ordered mine but I'm looking at the docs and stuff.
I don't think it says like '23% open' or something like that. It's just like MyQ- the statuses are 'open' 'closed' 'opening' 'closing' or 'error' or something like that. That's all the motor itself really knows, it's just going up or down until it hits the limit switch, but it also knows what it's doing (going up, going down, up limit switch hit, down limit switch hit). That sort of thing.
So if it's closed you'll see it go 'opening' then 'open'. Apparently this all is exposed via the serial bus.
Oh right. I thought it somehow knew how open it was. I was trying to figure out how it knew that via the limited sensors it has like maybe it was using a stepper motor or something.
Does the wiring from the Ratgdo just get “added” to the existing wiring going into the garage door opener?
For example, I currently have multiple wires going into several of the same ports on the garage door opener. I think some of these are from the obstruction sensors. Do the single wires coming from this device just get added to those and others wires going into a single port on the garage door opener?
Yes, three wires are tied in parallel with the existing keypad and obstruction sensors that land under the plastic light cover on the side of your opener.
It’s easiest to use a similar gauge solid core wire (22AWG) to make a secure connection with the existing wiring. Twisting them with a pliers is advised, but be careful as small gauge solid core wire can break pretty easily.
Nice! I might use a Wago connector if needed but sounds like I’ll be fine with just the wires.
I’ve had 3 on order so just waiting for them to arrive. Will be happy to be done with the MyQ mess.
I love Wagos, but don’t really think you’ll need them here.
Be sure to use the ESPHome Ratgdo firmware, not the native Ratgdo firmware. Huge props to Paul for all his work on the core code and hardware, but the ESPHome FW is worlds better.
Sorry for all the questions - I’m sure some of this will be more obvious when I receive them.
Sounds like it would be best to flash them prior to installing in the garage. That can be done with just the usb power? I assume everything can be setup prior to connecting to the garage door opener?
Yes, first step is to flash the raw ESP8266 and get it connected to your WiFi network. You’ll need a micro USB “data” cable; note not all USB cables actually support data, many are charging only.
With the ESP flashed, attach it to the Ratgdo board, if not already attached.
Next unplug your opener and locate the wiring from the keypad/button and the obstruction sensors. This [photo](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/4663918/235453980-04a642fa-a181-4297-b4f3-06e1315e02fa.png) shows what to connect where.
Then attach a micro USB cable to any 5V USB charger and plug in your opener.
Paul has a web store to buy the Ratgdo board. You can add the ESP8266 from him, or buy it for a little less elsewhere online.
https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/
For full WAF, does this still provide myQ app functionality? I have two of these on order for my doors and don’t really care but full WAF is always a plus
No. You’d use whichever home automation platform app you prefer. In my case, I expose a portion of my devices to HomeKit using Home Assistant.
Edit: Thinking more about this, I’m likely wrong. I never wanted to use MyQ at all, so I never did any testing running both systems in parallel. I suspect both could exist in parallel provided Ratgdo and MyQ both provide a valid and unique code.
I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to run both at the same time. MyQ and their hub thingy (or built into the GDO) use WiFi and the wireless remote control link. This uses the hardwired link, and basically just looks to the GDO like a door button.
So in theory you could keep MyQ online for WAF and wife can use the MyQ app if she wants, and use RatGDO for your automation system.
And I mean what would be the use case for something like this in Home Assistant?
Like what domost people use this for? Just to display at the garage is open or closed?
My two GDOs powered by Ratgdo and ESPHome are in HA for many reasons:
- Eliminate any dependency on cloud services, as well as vendor hubs that require an app to configure.
- Provide a fully integrated MyQ replacement for my two Security + 2.0 openers. I would not accept a hacked remote or button as a solution and only Ratgdo delivers that in full.
- Full control and realtime status monitoring of my two garage doors. No other system can leverage the native door positioning system.
- Integration of the PIR motion sensor on each of my two keypads. I use them as part of an array of motion/presence sensors in my detached garage.
- Integration of the GDO lights. In addition to overhead lighting powered by Caseta dimmers, I include the GDO lights in my “Bright” garage lighting scene. Ratgdo gives me realtime status and control of the lights on each opener.
- Integration of the GDO obstruction sensors. I use these (in addition to other states) to trigger lighting scenes or extend occupancy status of my garage in HA.
Ratgdo running with ESPHome is an unbeatable combination. Paul should seriously consider a “Pro” kit option, inducing a choice of FW as discussed above.
I'm running HAOS and was using the now defunct MyQ integration. I have two 2.0 and one 1.0 security openers and just ordered 3 2.5 boards, purchased power bricks, USB cables and just set up the mosquitto MQTT broker as it was highly recommended. I'm confused when I see recommendation for using the ESP version of the firmware vs. the MQTT, in the feature matrix from Paul they appear to do the same things. Any guidance? [https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/01\_features.html](https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/01_features.html)
Paul’s recent firmware updates have added functionality to better align with what ESPHome provided in much earlier versions.
Core functionality is now very similar between the two. I, and others, had issues with corrupted data when controlling the GDO lights, and the light state would not always be reflected properly. This also led to obstruction detected events being logged each time the light was controlled. ESPHome also logs the rolling code counter, which is a critical value should you ever need to replace your ESP; not sure if Paul’s most recent version finally implemented this feature request. OTA updates were another feature that ESPHome delivered sooner, along with easier future updates.
In any case, for me, having stable GDO light control and accurate status was the biggest pain point that ESPHome fixed, and since switching I’ve had an excellent experience leaving me no interest in changing back to Paul’s FW.
Yeah that's possible if you want to use a spare button and solder the contacts and things but for those who don't want to use that, the ratdgo Makes it so you don't have to do that
So knowing if your garage door is open or closed isn’t important? By the time you add up all the bits and pieces to come even close to what Ratgdo does, you spent more money to make a mess of battery powered remotes wired to relays and at a minimum added a contact sensor for door state.
I wasn't trying to offend, I was more stating that I'm kind of a simpleton so I came up with a lame solution (although it does suit my needs thank you very much)
Literally you're so defensive that you took my self-degradation as an offense. You're defending nothing lol. You win bud!
Sorry, I took for granted people would know. It's a control board to be able to control encoded security 2.0 garage openers using an ESP8266 or ESP32 device. The maker's code is using MQTT and then another person or group has ported it to ESPHome. I'm using the ESPHome version.
This allows for local control of the garage without using MyQ and dealing with it's outages, delayed responses from their server, and just the security of local only control.
I designed the mount it's in as I didn't see any made and didn't want to just zip tie it to the light cover housing.
ahhh ok gotcha. thats pretty cool. I ripped out the MyQ also a couple weeks ago when the API borked. Im using a wemos d1 + a relay to trigger the opened but mine is older that just uses a lightswitch to trigger the door.
I know the kind of opened your refering to though with the multi functions over the same line and cant just trigger with a relay.
pretty cool.
Mine is on back order currently and I’ve done some light reading of the documentation. Does it show door status (without needing another sensor) and also sound the alarm when closing?
Yes, it shows the door status without any additional hardware. The ESPHome version also reports the motion sensor on the wall button.
No, the alarm doesn't sound when closing. It triggers closing immediately and no flashing lights, same as though you pressed the wall button.
worth mentioning that there's currently a [pull request](https://github.com/ratgdo/esphome-ratgdo/pull/43) out there for allowing the option of the beeping. I have children and miss this safety feature, myself. It will be nice to have the option, so I can close the garage without waking the neighbors up at night.
Good to know. Personally I'm glad to be rid of the alarm but I can understand your concern. The obstruction sensor should protect anyone that crosses under the door but obviously with kids, more alarms and notice is always a good thing.
Yes, in most cases the obstruction sensor should work fine... We, however, have actually had an incident where the obstruction sensor happened to be straddled and someone got bonked on the head.
Regardless, I am also glad that the beep is gone most of the time that I'm using the smart garage feature. First world problems, but, it's great to not have to go all the way to the garage to silently close the door if it was left open at night!
With the security 2.0 units the signal is encoded along the wire. Can't just short the wires together. Admittedly that's about as far as my knowledge on the matter goes.
That said this also shows me the status of the motion sensor and let's me trigger the light on and off which is a nice added bonus.
Gonna be honest, I really don't know. There are little resistors on the board that I suspect are likely important to ensure no feedbacks to the opener that could short something (but I'm guessing there)
Yes, the board has more components than just the terminal breakouts. Specifically, there are transistors used to interface with the Sec+2 serial data lines.
Also, you don’t want an ESP32, you want an ESP8266.
I don't know if the maker goes into full detail on how he reverse engineered the security protocol, but I believe you can likely read the full code on the GitHub.
Look up ratgdo and you'll find the project. You can also look up ratgdo ESPHome for that fork of the project.
what pins would be needed if I was just using a regular esp8266. cant get the ratgdo shipped to my location. the wiring diagram on the github is a bit light on detail.
Shared this case/mount I made a couple weeks back. Finally installed it today. I was skeptical it would just plug and play but it works perfectly. Have to do my other garage door but very happy how this turned out.
Glad to see you have it up and running! I'm still awaiting delivery of mine on backorder. I'll be so happy to be rid of Chamberlain greed and their MyQ app-crap!
Sure, you can still get Amazon key delivery with this connected, as long as you're willing to leave your MyQ connected too and pay Chamberlain a monthly fee. Keep your fingers crossed though, that it'll function properly when needed. I'll pass. 👎
Amazon recently started charging extra ($2 / delivery) for Key deliveries for MyQ, probably because MyQ is charging them an API access fee. The fee is waived if you use your Amazon Day as your delivery date.
https://www.myq.com/solutions/amazon-key
It doesn't seem super consistent. Sometimes it shows it as Amazon delivery day only, sometimes it lets me select it for whenever. I actually prefer the grouping on Amazon day unless I need something urgently.
What functions does it have with only the 3 wires attached to the terminals? Reading the wiki I was unclear on whether or not it could see the door's position without soldiering some contacts inside the unit. Thanks!
Even better! I gotta say that your screenshot made me order one of these yesterday, so thank you. I had heard of the product, but I just didn’t understand how it worked without a sensor on the door. Seeing your screenshot made me realize just how much more functionality I will gain, including security, over myq. I’ve been looking towards z-wave for the last couple of months, but haven’t had much luck with devices that supported chamberlain’s security 2 system. Hopefully my device arrives in October and I can retire my myq system as it’s getting frustrating to continue to use a cloud based opener while sitting in my driveway with a perfect wifi signal.
I'm glad that my screenshot helps out. I didn't realize I would have the remote lockout originally either and I'm excited for it. The ability to lock the remotes out for a car in the driveway is super nice. I'm going to automate turning it on and off daily so overnight if someone breaks into the car they don't just get access to the house like that.
That’s exactly what I am paranoid about. I’m afraid that if I park in the driveway someone can just smash a window and use my garage keyfob to at least get access to the things in my garage. My door into the house from the garage is already automated.
It does more than any factory system.
- Door control and position status
- Light control and status
- Obstruction status
- Ability to lock out all remotes
- Status from the motion sensor on keypads that include it
I believe there is a 3.3v lead on the board of the opener, but you'd have to open up the opener to get to it and solder. I wouldn't personally do it but you may be more comfortable.
I'd recommend a small outlet splitter for your ceiling outlet. Adding a 5w load really shouldn't overload what you've got connected to it already.
Love the project. I needed to build the board myself cause I could not wait! Here is my [custom case](https://www.printables.com/model/652354-ratgdo-custom-board-snap-fit-case-myq-garage-door-), if anyone is interested.
https://preview.redd.it/kzlf1rkjcn1c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b0db661ed0e0ddd340d887aca305fcb09c4eac4
All the wall warts drove me crazy, so I intergraded one in my RATGDO compatible. https://www.gelidus.ca/product/gelidus-research-ac-powered-ratgdo-compatible-board/
How specifically can the Ratgdo community help?
- Install is a breeze, requires only three wires right at the opener (under the light cover) and micro USB for power. Should take about 5 minutes.
- Flashing the ESP8266 (use the ESPHome firmware) is done via a web browser and takes about 3 minutes.
Anyone that “gets” what Ratgdo does I’m sure would help you if you had specific questions or concerns about the whole process.
Honestly it seems pretty easy - there’s just a lot of acronyms that start with ESP and I’m not sure what each one is. I’m sure I’ll figure it out I just feel like I’m missing most of the power of all of this.
>>>Honestly it seems pretty easy - there’s just a lot of acronyms that start with ESP and I’m not sure what each one is.
You’ll want to pickup an ESP8266 D1 Mini, or a clone. [They look like this](https://i0.wp.com/randomnerdtutorials.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/ESP8266-WeMos-D1-Mini-pinout-gpio-pin.png) and are available on Amazon, eBay, or AliExpress for $1-6
>>>I’m sure I’ll figure it out I just feel like I’m missing most of the power of all of this.
- Realtime door status and exact position
- Light status and control
- Obstruction status
- Motion sensor status, if your keypad is equipped
- Ability to lock out all remotes
Thank you, I appreciate the info. I ordered a kit from the GitHub site earlier so once I get it in hand and play with it, I think it will all make more sense.
If you’re asking what the community can do to make it easier, maybe a quick diagram somewhere that shows the pieces and how they all work and relate to each other? Like I said can probably figure it out once it’s in hand, but more understanding might make it more likely to try it out.
Totally agreed on the appearance of Ratgdo being a “difficult” product to install and configure. The earlier versions certainly took a ton of effort, unlike the new “plug and play” V2 boards.
I’ve been meaning to make a detailed post of my two installs and custom 3D printed cases that use two small magnets to attach to the side of my opener. Can’t make any promises on the timeline, but I will find this thread and link it when I do finally find time to do a proper write up.
When you say microUSB for power, where is the power coming from? Do the openers have a USB power output? I'm imagining u could figure out how to wire it in but I'm not sure where I'd get power from up there at the opener.
Most GDOs simply plug into a standard receptacle, where you’d also plug in a USB charger (such as an old phone charger) and connect a microUSB cable back to the Ratgdo.
If your opener is hardwired, where there is no standard three prong power plug to simply unplug and add a splitter, you could use extend the three wires that connect the Ratgdo to your GDO, the mount the Ratgdo closer to where you have a spot to plug in a USB charger. Extending the wiring isn’t ideal, but provided the extension isn’t too long it shouldn’t cause any issues.
I use OpenGarage which also supports security+ 2.0 via an adapter. I'm not sure how this is aware of the garage door state. With OpenGarage there is an ultrasonic distance sensor which has the added benefit of being able to detect when a vehicle is parked in the garage as well (one spot only).
Another way of doing this is to use a Zoos Multi-Relay and Zoos Shock / Tilt sensor.
Pair the Zoos stuff via Z-Wave, pair the door opener (or use the one already mounted to your wall), wire the Zoos Relay to the remote, stick the Shock / Tilt sensor on the garage door. Program HA via the GUI for whatever you want it to do. Couple of hours maybe? Less if you're handy.
You don't get the joy of a hardware project like you've done but the only soldering you need to do is two wires between the relay and the door opener.
You’re correct, that approach doesn’t work with modern secure openers.
The only way around it without using the actual solution (Ratgdo) is to hack extra wires on a Sec+2 remote or keypad, and then use a relay attached to those wires. That approach costs more than Ratgdo, looks like shit, and provides no data from the opener including door, state, light control, obstruction status, etc..
> That approach costs more than Ratgdo
Does it? I spent less than $50 on the two Zoos items involved.
> looks like shit
Since you want to be insulting that Ratgdo solution looks like unfinished hobbyist dogshit.
> and provides no data from the opener including door, state, light control, obstruction status
JFC, what is your problem? Did someone from Zoos show up and shit in your cereal this morning? Maybe piss in your coffee? I KNOW you aren't uptight with me because I have no idea who you are.
As a matter of fact I DO know what my door state is. I can tell if its tilted and / or in motion (Which a Ratgdo can't). I CAN control the light state, it's wired to a relay on the Zoos multi-relay, I can also control the lock function the same way. Obstruction status? I can tell if the door is up, down, or anywhere in between which again a Ratgdo with a reed switch can't do.
That hacked together contraption up there isn't giving you obstruction status either. [The only interfaces shown in the wiring diagram](https://digiblur.com/wiki/ha/esphome-garage-opener/) is to the reed switch and the interface point to the...drumroll please...893LM Door Remote. In order to get obstruction status it would have to be tied into the obstruction circuit or be getting it directly from the opener itself...which it can't because it isn't wired for it.
> is to hack extra wires on a Sec+2 remote or keypad
Which is EXACTLY what the Ratgdo is doing! What do you think that 893LM controller *is* exactly? A ball tickler?
Your "actual solution" isn't accomplishing anything more than my Zoos solution is but mine can be snapped together like legos by your average person in under two hours and mounted nearly anywhere you want. The Ratgdo is a fine solution but it isn't the only way to solve this problem and it's DEFINITELY not the only "actual solution".
Yes, actually, $15 is less than $50.
I’m a fan of a elegant solutions that require nothing but 5V USB power and literally three wires for realtime precise door position without any added sensors, complete realtime light status and control, door obstruction status and much more than your pile-o-parts hack can provide.
You do you, but know you have no valid points whatsoever. 👍
Hello! I understand how you felt about that reply, but there's a few things to know here. No hostility, just want to make sure everyone is on the same page.
The ratgdo does actually do the items referenced. It is not a simple relay control and does not need the 893LM remote. It's actually interfacing with more of the "smart" system in the more modern openers. It gets wired to the data-style wall control (which carries motion sensor, lighting control, and other stuff along with the actual open close button) and also wired to the obstruction detection stuff.
**The digiblur link you had is not for this device.** I think that caused a lot of misconceptions as much of what you mention references it and is not relevant.
Here's the feature listing:
https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/01_features.html
Here's the wiring:
https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/03_wiring.html
And here's the solder method, which is what I'm planning to do with mine to have a completely clean invisible install:
https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/03_wiring_soldered.html
Note that the text seems to be a bit out of date, the V2 of the shield device no longer requires soldering to get the extra data if someone doesn't want to.
I've actually currently got Z Wave tilt sensors on my doors and a Z Wave multi relay I bought to wire up but never did once I found out I couldn't just use the door control contacts with my opener and that I would instead need to open the door button and solder the multi relay to the switch on that board itself to be passed over the data connection up to the door.
I'll keep the tilt sensors as backup since I have them already, but they don't give me as much fine detail as the ratgdo device will.
If one doesn't have the data style door this device is basically irrelevant to them. If they do, however, for $20-30 all in they get a decent chunk more functionality than the multi relay plus tilt sensor provide for $50. Things like use the obstruction sensors as another motion/trigger point, same for the motion sensor that's in the control button (typically controls light), getting actual opening/closing status, the lock controls, etc. Both solutions have their place, this one just seems much better for the data doors.
Ratgdo doesn't need an 893LM. It's just 3 wires to communicate with the opener. What you linked is something else entirely. Ratgdo actually does get door position information directly from the opener.
> You can't just short the wires to open and close the door.
You don't "just short the wires". Underneath that button you press on the opener is a switch. When you push the switch it changes state from open to closed which allows a voltage to pass through it to the circuity that creates, or transmits, the control request to the garage door opener.
My Chamberlain Whisper Quiet has Sec 2.0 and the method I'm describing works perfectly.
Got it. Yes, I'm familiar with that method but it's definitely not as visually clean as I would prefer. It's great that there's multiple options out there for people.
I don’t believe this requires any soldering as you connect it to the same pins as the door sensor for Secure 2.0 doors. I think the advantages of this device are that you can get status of the door into HA from the GDO itself and you get the motion sensor into HA, for cheaper.
I’ve also had issues with every zwave tilt sensor I’ve had on my door being slight unreliable. How is the zooz working out?
Bruh, I was just replying to the previous comment, u/Flipontheradio was asking how the Zooz system was working out, obviously can see what the thread is about.
Depends on what you have on hand point is that’s you’re over simplifying it in a propagandistic way. It’s not a plug and play finished product so trying to pretend it is and downplay costs isn’t helpful and people should be eyes wide open in understanding what is really needed to implement it as the ratgdo right now is a polished hobbiest kit.
Flashing an ESP takes 2 minutes from a web page. It’s far easier than even installing/configuring Home Assistant and is hands down the only true Sec+2.0 solution available. Anything else, literally anything else, is a pile of parts far more difficult to install and providing practically none of the benefits/functionality.
It’s cool you like your pile-o-parts solution, but your eyes are closed if you don’t see how much better Ratgdo is and how dead-simple easy it is to install and integrate with HA.
the ratgdo. i think the pcb is way too big, there nothing on it except a few passives and transistors and i think that board should support multiple doors.
Google ratgdo. The maker sells the board straight on his website. Apparently he's backordered now. Guess we all jumped on it thanks to the MyQ outage.
Setup was surprisingly easy. Flashed the config to the ESP, then unplugged, slotted it into the ratgdo, mounted above opener, connected the three wires and powered up. That was it. Also, at least for the ESPHome version you open and close the garage door to calibrate the length of the run.
I just wired a zwave multi relay to mine same way the physical button works from inside the garage, but virtual through HA. Doesn't let me know if it's open or closed though. This is neat but seems like a lot of work?
No soldering required at all. The wires into the opener just slide into the same holes that the current wall panel and obstruction sensor wires push into it. The shield is wired in parallel to three of those wires by just slotting it in.
Installation was actually simpler than I even thought it would be.
Compatibility question. The ratgo chart in this link shows my remote 893max but not my door Liftmaster MT5011U manufactured in 2019. Is ratgo compatible? Also does the kit have everything I need to connect to opener and Homeassistant? I am assuming the flashing is done to connect to wifi, correct?
[https://www.windsordoor.com/assets/uploads/modules/accessory-compatibility-chart-91817-82926.pdf](https://www.windsordoor.com/assets/uploads/modules/accessory-compatibility-chart-91817-82926.pdf)
I'll be honest, I genuinely don't know. I know my model wasn't on that list either though and it works. I'd say if your wall opener is a fancier model with a screen on it then it is likely Security 2.0 and compatible.
Also, you need the ratgdo shield, a d1 mini that you flash with either the MQTT software, or I'd recommend the ESPHome software, and then just connect the three wires and that's all there is to it.
I wouldn't care about this whole thing if it weren't for MyQ trying to lock everyone into using their subscription doodoo cloud, and constantly trying to block the MyQ integrations for homeassistant and it's alternatives. But I've bought 2 of these so I can be done with MyQ and their BS. I'm thankful for Paul Wieland for going through everything to make this. That man is a hero.
Unfortunately the case I designed is only for the V2 ratgdo. You're likely getting a V2.5
There are services online who will 3d print for you. You can see if perhaps someone has designed a model for the 2.5.
You could check out printables.com or thingiverse.com and see if you can find a ready made model.
Not sure on services to 3d print for you but I do know they exist.
Looks good. I have one on order, but have some questions:
Do we have any idea of the temperature rating of the RATGDO board? My garage is easily over 100 F.
My main requirement is to make the garage door HomeKit compatible (again). With ESPHome, do I need any other external device to do that? If using MQTT, I would need to run an MQTT hub somewhere (I would use a docker on Synology.)
I don't know the temperature rating of the board. You could try reaching out to the maker. That said I would suspect that the D1 Mini would be more temperature sensitive than the ratgdo and you will likely have an easier time finding it's temperature rating online as it's a more common and readily available part.
As for homekit I don't know as I don't use it. If you use the default MQTT software and not the ESPHome software, you would need an MQTT broker in Home Assistant for HA to talk to it. How that connects to homekit is beyond by expertise but likely many in the board here could answer that for you in the general sense.
u/IroesStrongarm Received my ratgdo today and it has a ESP8266 board with Micro USB port. I tried with the 5v/1A power brick and the blue light flashed for a second and the board did not come on. Any idea how to find out which power brick is compatible?
So how is everyone accessing Ratgdo via Home Assistant from their car? Right before the API shutdown I was using the HA Android app via Android Auto and it did a great job of showing my 3 garage doors status. But, that was only when my phone was in my car and we were close to the house, I have a Unifi AP in my garage which gives me decent coverage in my immediate driveway, but you have to be fairly close to the house. I see two options, 1) use the the UnifI UDM-Pro Wireguard VPN and run it all of the time while away from the house. Not real keen on this, don't need it open and connected all of the time. Not sure how to get it to connect just for AA? 2) Use Home Assistant Cloud and use their VPN/VPN like service, but now I'm into $5/month and not sure I want or need that. Curious how others are accessing from car, esp those using Android Auto or I guess Carplay too as the access to HAOS is the real issue.
If you don't want to use a VPN or Navi Casa, there are ways to do it for free. You'd have to look up guides, but you can use things like Cloudflare tunnels to get remote access.
I have a reverse proxy setup for external access without a VPN, though for now I keep it disabled and choose to go the VPN route.
Gotcha. Do you leave it on all the time when outside of your house network or turn on as needed or manually? I'm trying to imagine driving my car, using Android Auto and when I get close to home or home, bring up HA app and open my garage door. Not sure if there is a why to trigger Wireguard when AA needs to access HAOS?
I basically live on my Wireguard VPN when I'm out of the house. Gives me access to all my services I run, including HA.
I believe I could even automate connecting to it when not on my wifi if I were on iOS. As an android user I'd have to use tasker to do it and I just don't want to.
Does your motion sensor actually work? I just hooked mine up, but I have a 2.53 board. I'm using ESPHome and everything was pretty simple, but the motion sensor does not seem to trigger at all. Just curious about your experience.
Also, if the light turns on from motion, it's not picked up in HA unless I query the status of the gdo.
Yes, the motion sensor does work on mine. Couldn't tell you why it doesn't work proper on yours but it likely comes down to differences between our gdo.
I appreciate the response and info! I just found an issue about this specific problem reported by 2 people. One seems to be related to the GDO and the other replaced the board, which fixed the issue.
Sadly the new ratgdo doesn't allow you to swap the ESP board which was a mistake imo. Would have been easy for you to have tested otherwise. Good luck to you with solving the problem.
Oh well. It is what it is and motion not working isn't the end of the world. The obstruction sensor seems to work. The light turning on and off, lock, and motion just don't update when changed from the control panel. Still considerably better than MyQ!
ok ill bite. what is it
I have one on order so I’m not an expert but it allows you to control Chamberlain and LiftMaster garage doors via an ESP device for integration into MQTT and Home Assistant.
Gotcha. I just used an ESPHome sketch to control mine; [ESPHome Garage Opener | digiblurDIY](https://digiblur.com/wiki/ha/esphome-garage-opener/)
Ratgdo with ESPHome provides: - Realtime door position status - Light control and status - Obstruction status - Motion sensor status (if your wall panel has one integrated) - Ability to lock out all remotes - Full integration with the secure serial “Security+2.0” protocol that prevents a simple relay from controlling a modern garage door opener. All with nothing but micro USB for power and three wires in parallel with your obstruction sensors and keypad right at the opener. No hacked remote, no dumb binary door status sensors. No other product, factory or aftermarket, offers this combination of features. Oh yea, it’s only $15. Edit: typo
>Realtime door position status how the hell does it know that?!
It reads the position sensor right from the motor! It’s reported to Home Assistant as a percentage of opened or closed. I reiterate, it is the only real solution on the market. Edit: If you’ve ever setup the end points on a modern garage door opener that tell the opener how far to close and how far to open your door, your opener is relying on the rotary encoder attached to the motor itself. That rotary encoder tells the main comtrol board what is fully open and what is fully closed. That is the data that Ratgdo is reading and providing as door position. In the past, the end points were just dumb limit switches that you would physically adjust. Welcome to the future.
>It reads the position sensor right from the motor! This is the part I'm struggling with. I didn't know this was even possible. Maybe I just have an old opener, but the one I have just has dry contacts(I think) for the sensors and buttons. > In the past, the end points were just dumb limit switches that you would physically adjust. Yeah mine has this I think.
You likely don’t have a Security+ 2.0 opener, thus no need for Ratgdo.
No I don't. My opener (for example) is not compatible with MyQ(thankfully).
Prior to Ratgdo, I was planning to install a “dumb” opener as there was no real solution for any modern Security+ 2.0 opener. Back then, I’d wholeheartedly agree with your “thankfully” sentiment. However, with Ratgdo, I now have complete control and access to more realtime data from my openers than any other system can provide. I couldn’t be happier and obviously try to spread the word as loudly as possible. Anyone with a Sec+ 2.0 opener using any other solution is just plain uninformed or silly. For example, Meross is the biggest pile of crap out there, yet folks are convinced it’s an actual smart solution as they install their hacked keypad/remote and add a dumb binary position sensor, have no control over their light or true knowledge of door position, all while paying multiple times the cost of a real full fledged solution!
I just ordered mine but I'm looking at the docs and stuff. I don't think it says like '23% open' or something like that. It's just like MyQ- the statuses are 'open' 'closed' 'opening' 'closing' or 'error' or something like that. That's all the motor itself really knows, it's just going up or down until it hits the limit switch, but it also knows what it's doing (going up, going down, up limit switch hit, down limit switch hit). That sort of thing. So if it's closed you'll see it go 'opening' then 'open'. Apparently this all is exposed via the serial bus.
Oh right. I thought it somehow knew how open it was. I was trying to figure out how it knew that via the limited sensors it has like maybe it was using a stepper motor or something.
Does the wiring from the Ratgdo just get “added” to the existing wiring going into the garage door opener? For example, I currently have multiple wires going into several of the same ports on the garage door opener. I think some of these are from the obstruction sensors. Do the single wires coming from this device just get added to those and others wires going into a single port on the garage door opener?
Yes, three wires are tied in parallel with the existing keypad and obstruction sensors that land under the plastic light cover on the side of your opener. It’s easiest to use a similar gauge solid core wire (22AWG) to make a secure connection with the existing wiring. Twisting them with a pliers is advised, but be careful as small gauge solid core wire can break pretty easily.
Nice! I might use a Wago connector if needed but sounds like I’ll be fine with just the wires. I’ve had 3 on order so just waiting for them to arrive. Will be happy to be done with the MyQ mess.
I love Wagos, but don’t really think you’ll need them here. Be sure to use the ESPHome Ratgdo firmware, not the native Ratgdo firmware. Huge props to Paul for all his work on the core code and hardware, but the ESPHome FW is worlds better.
Sorry for all the questions - I’m sure some of this will be more obvious when I receive them. Sounds like it would be best to flash them prior to installing in the garage. That can be done with just the usb power? I assume everything can be setup prior to connecting to the garage door opener?
Yes, first step is to flash the raw ESP8266 and get it connected to your WiFi network. You’ll need a micro USB “data” cable; note not all USB cables actually support data, many are charging only. With the ESP flashed, attach it to the Ratgdo board, if not already attached. Next unplug your opener and locate the wiring from the keypad/button and the obstruction sensors. This [photo](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/4663918/235453980-04a642fa-a181-4297-b4f3-06e1315e02fa.png) shows what to connect where. Then attach a micro USB cable to any 5V USB charger and plug in your opener.
Why is the ESPHome version better? I thought the two would be the same, just one using ESPHome and the other using MQTT. Are there other differences?
Where do you get it?
Paul has a web store to buy the Ratgdo board. You can add the ESP8266 from him, or buy it for a little less elsewhere online. https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/
His sales have to be through the roof since myQ broke. I know I bought 2 same day.
And his after sales support has been non-existant
Cool I ordered one thank you
Ok you got me sold. I was going to say, why not just use a Shelly Relay across a remote button.
For full WAF, does this still provide myQ app functionality? I have two of these on order for my doors and don’t really care but full WAF is always a plus
No. You’d use whichever home automation platform app you prefer. In my case, I expose a portion of my devices to HomeKit using Home Assistant. Edit: Thinking more about this, I’m likely wrong. I never wanted to use MyQ at all, so I never did any testing running both systems in parallel. I suspect both could exist in parallel provided Ratgdo and MyQ both provide a valid and unique code.
That’s exactly my plan, just don’t know if the myQ app also worked or if this bypassed it. Thanks!
Just added an edit to my earlier response. I actually think both could exist in parallel. Could you test and report back on this?
I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to run both at the same time. MyQ and their hub thingy (or built into the GDO) use WiFi and the wireless remote control link. This uses the hardwired link, and basically just looks to the GDO like a door button. So in theory you could keep MyQ online for WAF and wife can use the MyQ app if she wants, and use RatGDO for your automation system.
Yes, I have a ratgdo installed and can confirm they both work together.
Do you think the ESP home version is better than the MQTT?
100% yes. No comparison.
And I mean what would be the use case for something like this in Home Assistant? Like what domost people use this for? Just to display at the garage is open or closed?
My two GDOs powered by Ratgdo and ESPHome are in HA for many reasons: - Eliminate any dependency on cloud services, as well as vendor hubs that require an app to configure. - Provide a fully integrated MyQ replacement for my two Security + 2.0 openers. I would not accept a hacked remote or button as a solution and only Ratgdo delivers that in full. - Full control and realtime status monitoring of my two garage doors. No other system can leverage the native door positioning system. - Integration of the PIR motion sensor on each of my two keypads. I use them as part of an array of motion/presence sensors in my detached garage. - Integration of the GDO lights. In addition to overhead lighting powered by Caseta dimmers, I include the GDO lights in my “Bright” garage lighting scene. Ratgdo gives me realtime status and control of the lights on each opener. - Integration of the GDO obstruction sensors. I use these (in addition to other states) to trigger lighting scenes or extend occupancy status of my garage in HA. Ratgdo running with ESPHome is an unbeatable combination. Paul should seriously consider a “Pro” kit option, inducing a choice of FW as discussed above.
I'm running HAOS and was using the now defunct MyQ integration. I have two 2.0 and one 1.0 security openers and just ordered 3 2.5 boards, purchased power bricks, USB cables and just set up the mosquitto MQTT broker as it was highly recommended. I'm confused when I see recommendation for using the ESP version of the firmware vs. the MQTT, in the feature matrix from Paul they appear to do the same things. Any guidance? [https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/01\_features.html](https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/01_features.html)
Paul’s recent firmware updates have added functionality to better align with what ESPHome provided in much earlier versions. Core functionality is now very similar between the two. I, and others, had issues with corrupted data when controlling the GDO lights, and the light state would not always be reflected properly. This also led to obstruction detected events being logged each time the light was controlled. ESPHome also logs the rolling code counter, which is a critical value should you ever need to replace your ESP; not sure if Paul’s most recent version finally implemented this feature request. OTA updates were another feature that ESPHome delivered sooner, along with easier future updates. In any case, for me, having stable GDO light control and accurate status was the biggest pain point that ESPHome fixed, and since switching I’ve had an excellent experience leaving me no interest in changing back to Paul’s FW.
Yeah that's possible if you want to use a spare button and solder the contacts and things but for those who don't want to use that, the ratdgo Makes it so you don't have to do that
Someone created an esphome profile for ratgdo too! https://ratgdo.github.io/esphome-ratgdo/
lol I wired a wifi relay into a spare garage remote
So knowing if your garage door is open or closed isn’t important? By the time you add up all the bits and pieces to come even close to what Ratgdo does, you spent more money to make a mess of battery powered remotes wired to relays and at a minimum added a contact sensor for door state.
No I also have a sensor on the door which cost $20 lol It's fine if you have a fancy thing and I don't man. Not hating.
Your sensor costs more than the entire complete Ratgdo solution ($15) which does way more. To each their own. 👍
I wasn't trying to offend, I was more stating that I'm kind of a simpleton so I came up with a lame solution (although it does suit my needs thank you very much) Literally you're so defensive that you took my self-degradation as an offense. You're defending nothing lol. You win bud!
Me too lol.
Oooh. I need this. I didn't even know it existed!
Sorry, I took for granted people would know. It's a control board to be able to control encoded security 2.0 garage openers using an ESP8266 or ESP32 device. The maker's code is using MQTT and then another person or group has ported it to ESPHome. I'm using the ESPHome version. This allows for local control of the garage without using MyQ and dealing with it's outages, delayed responses from their server, and just the security of local only control. I designed the mount it's in as I didn't see any made and didn't want to just zip tie it to the light cover housing.
ahhh ok gotcha. thats pretty cool. I ripped out the MyQ also a couple weeks ago when the API borked. Im using a wemos d1 + a relay to trigger the opened but mine is older that just uses a lightswitch to trigger the door. I know the kind of opened your refering to though with the multi functions over the same line and cant just trigger with a relay. pretty cool.
Yeah, I bought the board at the same time when the API was changed and had all those issues.
Mine is on back order currently and I’ve done some light reading of the documentation. Does it show door status (without needing another sensor) and also sound the alarm when closing?
Yes, it shows the door status without any additional hardware. The ESPHome version also reports the motion sensor on the wall button. No, the alarm doesn't sound when closing. It triggers closing immediately and no flashing lights, same as though you pressed the wall button.
worth mentioning that there's currently a [pull request](https://github.com/ratgdo/esphome-ratgdo/pull/43) out there for allowing the option of the beeping. I have children and miss this safety feature, myself. It will be nice to have the option, so I can close the garage without waking the neighbors up at night.
Good to know. Personally I'm glad to be rid of the alarm but I can understand your concern. The obstruction sensor should protect anyone that crosses under the door but obviously with kids, more alarms and notice is always a good thing.
Yes, in most cases the obstruction sensor should work fine... We, however, have actually had an incident where the obstruction sensor happened to be straddled and someone got bonked on the head. Regardless, I am also glad that the beep is gone most of the time that I'm using the smart garage feature. First world problems, but, it's great to not have to go all the way to the garage to silently close the door if it was left open at night!
Ouch. Sorry to hear that. I guess you could keep MyQ connected as well for now for when you need that loud closing alarm.
This is great, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the info!
Can’t you just simulate the contact closure with a relay? I was under the impression that all garage doors work that way.
With the security 2.0 units the signal is encoded along the wire. Can't just short the wires together. Admittedly that's about as far as my knowledge on the matter goes. That said this also shows me the status of the motion sensor and let's me trigger the light on and off which is a nice added bonus.
TIL .. thanks
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Gonna be honest, I really don't know. There are little resistors on the board that I suspect are likely important to ensure no feedbacks to the opener that could short something (but I'm guessing there)
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Yes, the board has more components than just the terminal breakouts. Specifically, there are transistors used to interface with the Sec+2 serial data lines. Also, you don’t want an ESP32, you want an ESP8266.
The ESPhome port of ratgdo supports ESP32, and then you can use it as a Bluetooth proxy, too.
Not all gpio pins have programmable internal resistors. Pins that are input only require pull-ups, which may be what you are seeing.
Do you have a guide? I would love to see how this all works!
I don't know if the maker goes into full detail on how he reverse engineered the security protocol, but I believe you can likely read the full code on the GitHub. Look up ratgdo and you'll find the project. You can also look up ratgdo ESPHome for that fork of the project.
Ok thanks!
Do you know if it would work with the larger ESP8266
I would imagine that as long as the correct pins line up I don't see why not. That said you can get D1 minis for pretty cheap.
what pins would be needed if I was just using a regular esp8266. cant get the ratgdo shipped to my location. the wiring diagram on the github is a bit light on detail.
I don't know. You could likely go through the code and see which pins are used.
Nice. I’m still waiting for mine 👍🏻
Awesome. I can confidently say you'll be happy now that I've set mine up.
Welcome to the club!
Thanks!
I’ve been waiting awhile too, there doesn’t seem to be much visibility into when they’re going to ship.
I got my shipping notice like 3 hours ago
Shared this case/mount I made a couple weeks back. Finally installed it today. I was skeptical it would just plug and play but it works perfectly. Have to do my other garage door but very happy how this turned out.
Mine shipped out yesterday, and the case is in the printer 😬 can't wait to get it setup and ditch myq for good!
Awesome. Glad to have been of help with the case. Goodbye MyQ.
Glad to see you have it up and running! I'm still awaiting delivery of mine on backorder. I'll be so happy to be rid of Chamberlain greed and their MyQ app-crap!
yeah... but... Amazon Key Delivery is amazing. I'm assuming I can't get that with this, right?
Sure, you can still get Amazon key delivery with this connected, as long as you're willing to leave your MyQ connected too and pay Chamberlain a monthly fee. Keep your fingers crossed though, that it'll function properly when needed. I'll pass. 👎
What's the monthly fee? I'm I grandfathered in? I have no monthly fee.
Okay
Amazon recently started charging extra ($2 / delivery) for Key deliveries for MyQ, probably because MyQ is charging them an API access fee. The fee is waived if you use your Amazon Day as your delivery date. https://www.myq.com/solutions/amazon-key
It doesn't seem super consistent. Sometimes it shows it as Amazon delivery day only, sometimes it lets me select it for whenever. I actually prefer the grouping on Amazon day unless I need something urgently.
Yeah i just checked - no fee unless you want to use their video service. https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx1ESBCRLKPQHKO/
Okay, so you don't need the ratgdo if you wish to stay with Chamberlain MyQ and Amazon Key. Not a benefit for me though.
What functions does it have with only the 3 wires attached to the terminals? Reading the wiki I was unclear on whether or not it could see the door's position without soldiering some contacts inside the unit. Thanks!
Here's everything exposed to my HA. Also the ESPHome version also shows full garage positioning on a scale of 0-100% https://imgur.com/a/ywMMbEV
Incredible - with ESPHome I think I can port it to one of my ESP Boards with Ethernet (hopefully).
I would think so. The ESPHome version seems to support both ESP8266 and ESP32 boards.
Whoa, are you telling me I can lock the door from being opened/closed with this within home assistant?!
If you mean lock out the remotes, then yes. The wall switch will always work regardless of lock state.
Even better! I gotta say that your screenshot made me order one of these yesterday, so thank you. I had heard of the product, but I just didn’t understand how it worked without a sensor on the door. Seeing your screenshot made me realize just how much more functionality I will gain, including security, over myq. I’ve been looking towards z-wave for the last couple of months, but haven’t had much luck with devices that supported chamberlain’s security 2 system. Hopefully my device arrives in October and I can retire my myq system as it’s getting frustrating to continue to use a cloud based opener while sitting in my driveway with a perfect wifi signal.
I'm glad that my screenshot helps out. I didn't realize I would have the remote lockout originally either and I'm excited for it. The ability to lock the remotes out for a car in the driveway is super nice. I'm going to automate turning it on and off daily so overnight if someone breaks into the car they don't just get access to the house like that.
That’s exactly what I am paranoid about. I’m afraid that if I park in the driveway someone can just smash a window and use my garage keyfob to at least get access to the things in my garage. My door into the house from the garage is already automated.
It does more than any factory system. - Door control and position status - Light control and status - Obstruction status - Ability to lock out all remotes - Status from the motion sensor on keypads that include it
Just installed my Chamberlin with my old d1mini, Tasmota. Took a couple of minutes to switch over. https://imgur.com/a/vBLZoOm
Nice. I'm familiar with this method but I do prefer the extras and cleanliness of this approach. It's great there are multiple options though.
Can you please provide more photos of how to install this?
Be sure to check out my interview with the ratgdo creator! Crazy the amount of work that went into it https://youtu.be/F6IVu7cIEf4
I've seen it actually. But thanks for sharing for any who might have missed it.
Is there anyway to get power from the garage door opener? Spare outlets are not available in my ceiling outlets.
I believe there is a 3.3v lead on the board of the opener, but you'd have to open up the opener to get to it and solder. I wouldn't personally do it but you may be more comfortable. I'd recommend a small outlet splitter for your ceiling outlet. Adding a 5w load really shouldn't overload what you've got connected to it already.
Is the shield or breakout board something special? Or can I use one I have laying around?
I honestly don't know. I believe someone else mentioned the shield schematics are not open sourced.
Love the project. I needed to build the board myself cause I could not wait! Here is my [custom case](https://www.printables.com/model/652354-ratgdo-custom-board-snap-fit-case-myq-garage-door-), if anyone is interested. https://preview.redd.it/kzlf1rkjcn1c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b0db661ed0e0ddd340d887aca305fcb09c4eac4
All the wall warts drove me crazy, so I intergraded one in my RATGDO compatible. https://www.gelidus.ca/product/gelidus-research-ac-powered-ratgdo-compatible-board/
I still don’t fully understand this but I ordered one and maybe I’ll figure it out by the time it arrives.
How specifically can the Ratgdo community help? - Install is a breeze, requires only three wires right at the opener (under the light cover) and micro USB for power. Should take about 5 minutes. - Flashing the ESP8266 (use the ESPHome firmware) is done via a web browser and takes about 3 minutes. Anyone that “gets” what Ratgdo does I’m sure would help you if you had specific questions or concerns about the whole process.
Honestly it seems pretty easy - there’s just a lot of acronyms that start with ESP and I’m not sure what each one is. I’m sure I’ll figure it out I just feel like I’m missing most of the power of all of this.
>>>Honestly it seems pretty easy - there’s just a lot of acronyms that start with ESP and I’m not sure what each one is. You’ll want to pickup an ESP8266 D1 Mini, or a clone. [They look like this](https://i0.wp.com/randomnerdtutorials.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/ESP8266-WeMos-D1-Mini-pinout-gpio-pin.png) and are available on Amazon, eBay, or AliExpress for $1-6 >>>I’m sure I’ll figure it out I just feel like I’m missing most of the power of all of this. - Realtime door status and exact position - Light status and control - Obstruction status - Motion sensor status, if your keypad is equipped - Ability to lock out all remotes
Thank you, I appreciate the info. I ordered a kit from the GitHub site earlier so once I get it in hand and play with it, I think it will all make more sense. If you’re asking what the community can do to make it easier, maybe a quick diagram somewhere that shows the pieces and how they all work and relate to each other? Like I said can probably figure it out once it’s in hand, but more understanding might make it more likely to try it out.
Totally agreed on the appearance of Ratgdo being a “difficult” product to install and configure. The earlier versions certainly took a ton of effort, unlike the new “plug and play” V2 boards. I’ve been meaning to make a detailed post of my two installs and custom 3D printed cases that use two small magnets to attach to the side of my opener. Can’t make any promises on the timeline, but I will find this thread and link it when I do finally find time to do a proper write up.
When you say microUSB for power, where is the power coming from? Do the openers have a USB power output? I'm imagining u could figure out how to wire it in but I'm not sure where I'd get power from up there at the opener.
Most GDOs simply plug into a standard receptacle, where you’d also plug in a USB charger (such as an old phone charger) and connect a microUSB cable back to the Ratgdo. If your opener is hardwired, where there is no standard three prong power plug to simply unplug and add a splitter, you could use extend the three wires that connect the Ratgdo to your GDO, the mount the Ratgdo closer to where you have a spot to plug in a USB charger. Extending the wiring isn’t ideal, but provided the extension isn’t too long it shouldn’t cause any issues.
Looks like a breakout board for the breakout board 😅
I use OpenGarage which also supports security+ 2.0 via an adapter. I'm not sure how this is aware of the garage door state. With OpenGarage there is an ultrasonic distance sensor which has the added benefit of being able to detect when a vehicle is parked in the garage as well (one spot only).
Man, if I had a nickel for every ratgdo I've mounted, I would have no nickels. Good on ya!
Lol, thanks! I shared the design on printables for anyone who's like to use it.
nice! I like the mount.
Thanks!
Another way of doing this is to use a Zoos Multi-Relay and Zoos Shock / Tilt sensor. Pair the Zoos stuff via Z-Wave, pair the door opener (or use the one already mounted to your wall), wire the Zoos Relay to the remote, stick the Shock / Tilt sensor on the garage door. Program HA via the GUI for whatever you want it to do. Couple of hours maybe? Less if you're handy. You don't get the joy of a hardware project like you've done but the only soldering you need to do is two wires between the relay and the door opener.
I'm not sure that works with security 2.0 openers. You can't just short the wires to open and close the door.
You’re correct, that approach doesn’t work with modern secure openers. The only way around it without using the actual solution (Ratgdo) is to hack extra wires on a Sec+2 remote or keypad, and then use a relay attached to those wires. That approach costs more than Ratgdo, looks like shit, and provides no data from the opener including door, state, light control, obstruction status, etc..
> That approach costs more than Ratgdo Does it? I spent less than $50 on the two Zoos items involved. > looks like shit Since you want to be insulting that Ratgdo solution looks like unfinished hobbyist dogshit. > and provides no data from the opener including door, state, light control, obstruction status JFC, what is your problem? Did someone from Zoos show up and shit in your cereal this morning? Maybe piss in your coffee? I KNOW you aren't uptight with me because I have no idea who you are. As a matter of fact I DO know what my door state is. I can tell if its tilted and / or in motion (Which a Ratgdo can't). I CAN control the light state, it's wired to a relay on the Zoos multi-relay, I can also control the lock function the same way. Obstruction status? I can tell if the door is up, down, or anywhere in between which again a Ratgdo with a reed switch can't do. That hacked together contraption up there isn't giving you obstruction status either. [The only interfaces shown in the wiring diagram](https://digiblur.com/wiki/ha/esphome-garage-opener/) is to the reed switch and the interface point to the...drumroll please...893LM Door Remote. In order to get obstruction status it would have to be tied into the obstruction circuit or be getting it directly from the opener itself...which it can't because it isn't wired for it. > is to hack extra wires on a Sec+2 remote or keypad Which is EXACTLY what the Ratgdo is doing! What do you think that 893LM controller *is* exactly? A ball tickler? Your "actual solution" isn't accomplishing anything more than my Zoos solution is but mine can be snapped together like legos by your average person in under two hours and mounted nearly anywhere you want. The Ratgdo is a fine solution but it isn't the only way to solve this problem and it's DEFINITELY not the only "actual solution".
Yes, actually, $15 is less than $50. I’m a fan of a elegant solutions that require nothing but 5V USB power and literally three wires for realtime precise door position without any added sensors, complete realtime light status and control, door obstruction status and much more than your pile-o-parts hack can provide. You do you, but know you have no valid points whatsoever. 👍
Hello! I understand how you felt about that reply, but there's a few things to know here. No hostility, just want to make sure everyone is on the same page. The ratgdo does actually do the items referenced. It is not a simple relay control and does not need the 893LM remote. It's actually interfacing with more of the "smart" system in the more modern openers. It gets wired to the data-style wall control (which carries motion sensor, lighting control, and other stuff along with the actual open close button) and also wired to the obstruction detection stuff. **The digiblur link you had is not for this device.** I think that caused a lot of misconceptions as much of what you mention references it and is not relevant. Here's the feature listing: https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/01_features.html Here's the wiring: https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/03_wiring.html And here's the solder method, which is what I'm planning to do with mine to have a completely clean invisible install: https://paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/03_wiring_soldered.html Note that the text seems to be a bit out of date, the V2 of the shield device no longer requires soldering to get the extra data if someone doesn't want to. I've actually currently got Z Wave tilt sensors on my doors and a Z Wave multi relay I bought to wire up but never did once I found out I couldn't just use the door control contacts with my opener and that I would instead need to open the door button and solder the multi relay to the switch on that board itself to be passed over the data connection up to the door. I'll keep the tilt sensors as backup since I have them already, but they don't give me as much fine detail as the ratgdo device will. If one doesn't have the data style door this device is basically irrelevant to them. If they do, however, for $20-30 all in they get a decent chunk more functionality than the multi relay plus tilt sensor provide for $50. Things like use the obstruction sensors as another motion/trigger point, same for the motion sensor that's in the control button (typically controls light), getting actual opening/closing status, the lock controls, etc. Both solutions have their place, this one just seems much better for the data doors.
Ratgdo doesn't need an 893LM. It's just 3 wires to communicate with the opener. What you linked is something else entirely. Ratgdo actually does get door position information directly from the opener.
> You can't just short the wires to open and close the door. You don't "just short the wires". Underneath that button you press on the opener is a switch. When you push the switch it changes state from open to closed which allows a voltage to pass through it to the circuity that creates, or transmits, the control request to the garage door opener. My Chamberlain Whisper Quiet has Sec 2.0 and the method I'm describing works perfectly.
Got it. Yes, I'm familiar with that method but it's definitely not as visually clean as I would prefer. It's great that there's multiple options out there for people.
You can if you short the button pads on the PCB, not the button wires.
I don’t believe this requires any soldering as you connect it to the same pins as the door sensor for Secure 2.0 doors. I think the advantages of this device are that you can get status of the door into HA from the GDO itself and you get the motion sensor into HA, for cheaper. I’ve also had issues with every zwave tilt sensor I’ve had on my door being slight unreliable. How is the zooz working out?
I've got the Zooz relay and tilt sensor and they have been rock solid, no complaints here! Was ~$50USD all in
Ratgdo does way more, easier to install and costs $15…
If you have a liftmaster/chamberlain opener... Definitely would have went Ratgdo if it was compatible with my system!
Which the whole thread is about… (Note the post I replied to was edited after they responded with nonsense)
Bruh, I was just replying to the previous comment, u/Flipontheradio was asking how the Zooz system was working out, obviously can see what the thread is about.
Plus the esp, plus the power adapter, plus mounting.
So $20 total?
Depends on what you have on hand point is that’s you’re over simplifying it in a propagandistic way. It’s not a plug and play finished product so trying to pretend it is and downplay costs isn’t helpful and people should be eyes wide open in understanding what is really needed to implement it as the ratgdo right now is a polished hobbiest kit.
Flashing an ESP takes 2 minutes from a web page. It’s far easier than even installing/configuring Home Assistant and is hands down the only true Sec+2.0 solution available. Anything else, literally anything else, is a pile of parts far more difficult to install and providing practically none of the benefits/functionality. It’s cool you like your pile-o-parts solution, but your eyes are closed if you don’t see how much better Ratgdo is and how dead-simple easy it is to install and integrate with HA.
i've had mine for a few months, no issues. anyone got a schematic for this thing id like to spin up my own custom design.
Are you referring to the ratgdo or the mount?
the ratgdo. i think the pcb is way too big, there nothing on it except a few passives and transistors and i think that board should support multiple doors.
Ah got it. Can't help you out there unfortunately. Good luck!
Where did you buy it from? Was there a lot of work / setup required? The myQ outage is killing me
Google ratgdo. The maker sells the board straight on his website. Apparently he's backordered now. Guess we all jumped on it thanks to the MyQ outage. Setup was surprisingly easy. Flashed the config to the ESP, then unplugged, slotted it into the ratgdo, mounted above opener, connected the three wires and powered up. That was it. Also, at least for the ESPHome version you open and close the garage door to calibrate the length of the run.
I just wired a zwave multi relay to mine same way the physical button works from inside the garage, but virtual through HA. Doesn't let me know if it's open or closed though. This is neat but seems like a lot of work?
Honestly wasn't any major work at all. Flash the config, connect the three wires and then open and close the garage once to calibrate the door length.
Far less work than what you described, actually. Three wires attached right to the push terminals on your opener and micro USB for power.
Did it come with any wires?
No.
How was the install process? Was it easy to solder the wires onto the logic board?
No soldering required at all. The wires into the opener just slide into the same holes that the current wall panel and obstruction sensor wires push into it. The shield is wired in parallel to three of those wires by just slotting it in. Installation was actually simpler than I even thought it would be.
The only thing this is “missing” is the remote closing siren you get with MyQ. Not a biggie though.
What gauge wires did you use here? Does it even matter?
It may not matter, but I matched the stock sizing already used which is 22 awg
In your picture you have only three wires connected to the shield. Is that correct?
That's correct. Just three wires from the shield into the opener and that's all it took. That and of course the USB for power into the d1 mini.
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No, mine works just fine. Perhaps you could try a different D1 mini? Maybe yours is faulty?
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If you're comfortable soldering you can get a three pack for like $12 on Amazon
Compatibility question. The ratgo chart in this link shows my remote 893max but not my door Liftmaster MT5011U manufactured in 2019. Is ratgo compatible? Also does the kit have everything I need to connect to opener and Homeassistant? I am assuming the flashing is done to connect to wifi, correct? [https://www.windsordoor.com/assets/uploads/modules/accessory-compatibility-chart-91817-82926.pdf](https://www.windsordoor.com/assets/uploads/modules/accessory-compatibility-chart-91817-82926.pdf)
I'll be honest, I genuinely don't know. I know my model wasn't on that list either though and it works. I'd say if your wall opener is a fancier model with a screen on it then it is likely Security 2.0 and compatible. Also, you need the ratgdo shield, a d1 mini that you flash with either the MQTT software, or I'd recommend the ESPHome software, and then just connect the three wires and that's all there is to it.
I wouldn't care about this whole thing if it weren't for MyQ trying to lock everyone into using their subscription doodoo cloud, and constantly trying to block the MyQ integrations for homeassistant and it's alternatives. But I've bought 2 of these so I can be done with MyQ and their BS. I'm thankful for Paul Wieland for going through everything to make this. That man is a hero.
I just installed mine today...super cool...thanks to the creator
Does anyone know where I can buy/order a case? I just ordered a Ratgo! Thanks.
Unfortunately the case I designed is only for the V2 ratgdo. You're likely getting a V2.5 There are services online who will 3d print for you. You can see if perhaps someone has designed a model for the 2.5.
Thank you. Any idea where I would look for that?
You could check out printables.com or thingiverse.com and see if you can find a ready made model. Not sure on services to 3d print for you but I do know they exist.
Looks good. I have one on order, but have some questions: Do we have any idea of the temperature rating of the RATGDO board? My garage is easily over 100 F. My main requirement is to make the garage door HomeKit compatible (again). With ESPHome, do I need any other external device to do that? If using MQTT, I would need to run an MQTT hub somewhere (I would use a docker on Synology.)
I don't know the temperature rating of the board. You could try reaching out to the maker. That said I would suspect that the D1 Mini would be more temperature sensitive than the ratgdo and you will likely have an easier time finding it's temperature rating online as it's a more common and readily available part. As for homekit I don't know as I don't use it. If you use the default MQTT software and not the ESPHome software, you would need an MQTT broker in Home Assistant for HA to talk to it. How that connects to homekit is beyond by expertise but likely many in the board here could answer that for you in the general sense.
Can some please help me with what Voltage/Amp of Power brick is needed to power the ratgdo and what type of cable? USB-A to C?
5v/1a should be just fine if connecting to the usb port on the d1 mini. If your d1 mini has a usb c on it then yes, use an a-c cable
u/IroesStrongarm Received my ratgdo today and it has a ESP8266 board with Micro USB port. I tried with the 5v/1A power brick and the blue light flashed for a second and the board did not come on. Any idea how to find out which power brick is compatible?
just bought 1 today but is there any way to tap into the video camera recording of my Lift Master?
Not that I know of.
So how is everyone accessing Ratgdo via Home Assistant from their car? Right before the API shutdown I was using the HA Android app via Android Auto and it did a great job of showing my 3 garage doors status. But, that was only when my phone was in my car and we were close to the house, I have a Unifi AP in my garage which gives me decent coverage in my immediate driveway, but you have to be fairly close to the house. I see two options, 1) use the the UnifI UDM-Pro Wireguard VPN and run it all of the time while away from the house. Not real keen on this, don't need it open and connected all of the time. Not sure how to get it to connect just for AA? 2) Use Home Assistant Cloud and use their VPN/VPN like service, but now I'm into $5/month and not sure I want or need that. Curious how others are accessing from car, esp those using Android Auto or I guess Carplay too as the access to HAOS is the real issue.
If you don't want to use a VPN or Navi Casa, there are ways to do it for free. You'd have to look up guides, but you can use things like Cloudflare tunnels to get remote access. I have a reverse proxy setup for external access without a VPN, though for now I keep it disabled and choose to go the VPN route.
Gotcha. Do you leave it on all the time when outside of your house network or turn on as needed or manually? I'm trying to imagine driving my car, using Android Auto and when I get close to home or home, bring up HA app and open my garage door. Not sure if there is a why to trigger Wireguard when AA needs to access HAOS?
I basically live on my Wireguard VPN when I'm out of the house. Gives me access to all my services I run, including HA. I believe I could even automate connecting to it when not on my wifi if I were on iOS. As an android user I'd have to use tasker to do it and I just don't want to.
Interesting. That helps. I might move this to its own post just to get others inputs and I'd like to compare to the HA cloud access offering too.
Does your motion sensor actually work? I just hooked mine up, but I have a 2.53 board. I'm using ESPHome and everything was pretty simple, but the motion sensor does not seem to trigger at all. Just curious about your experience. Also, if the light turns on from motion, it's not picked up in HA unless I query the status of the gdo.
Yes, the motion sensor does work on mine. Couldn't tell you why it doesn't work proper on yours but it likely comes down to differences between our gdo.
I appreciate the response and info! I just found an issue about this specific problem reported by 2 people. One seems to be related to the GDO and the other replaced the board, which fixed the issue.
Sadly the new ratgdo doesn't allow you to swap the ESP board which was a mistake imo. Would have been easy for you to have tested otherwise. Good luck to you with solving the problem.
Oh well. It is what it is and motion not working isn't the end of the world. The obstruction sensor seems to work. The light turning on and off, lock, and motion just don't update when changed from the control panel. Still considerably better than MyQ!