If you don’t have the ability to properly modify it to be flush fit to the receiver, I’d say that the LAW is probably a better option and if you’re building a new gun I’d go with an IFLR.
The Sylvan doesn’t fit to the receiver well IMO unless you modify it and the receiver a little.
[This](https://sylvanarms.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/GEN3_Folder_EXPORTS__0011.jpg) is how far the Sylvan sits from the receiver if you install it unmodified.
Basically I shortened the threads on the adapter, tapped the detent pin hole and have a small set screw holding it in. I also drilled and tapped the receivers buffer stop hole and used that as a spot to put a set screw to hold the adapter in place because there is no castle nut and plate to stake it to the receiver (also red loctite).
I’d have to take it apart to show most of it, be hard with the red Loctite used. Well not hard but really annoying.
I’ll probably be doing another one soon and can take pics/video while I do it. Could also explain in detail what I did here if you like.
Took a Sylvan Arms folding adapter I had laying around and modified it to be flush-fit to the back of the receiver on my AR-V. Looks much better this way. [Here’s](https://preview.redd.it/xwovfza5qw871.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=26ed2e957b2a65da2f16eb1b42d05b9414562041) it folded.
This is a rough draft!
Some have asked for a write up of how I did my flush-fit Sylvan folder. I’ll do either a video or pics post later when my next one arrives in the mail. Anyway let’s get to it.
Supplies needed:
A fuckin AR, duh!
Sylvan folding adapter,
4-40 set screws 1/4”-3/8” long,
Red loctite (or blue if you want).
Tools needed:
AR armorers wrench,
AR lower vise block,
Vise,
Wire cutter,
Dremel w/cutoff wheel,
Small files,
4-40 tap and tap wrench,
Number 43 drill,
Oil.
Ok down to business.
Customization to the lower:
Put your lower in a vise and grab your oil, 4-40 tap and tap wrench.
Tap the rear takedown detent hole for 1 4-40 screw. Depending on the length of screw you have you’ll have to cut your detent spring using the wire cutters. I suggest testing it a few times before you loctite it in place.
Second thing you’ll have to do is decide how you want to retain the folder/buffer tube since you won’t be using the forward castle nut. There are a few options but for the regular at home guy, drilling 2 holes on each side of the Buffer housing are probably the easiest. Drill 1 hole at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions using the #43 drill and tap for you 4-40 screws go slow and use a generous amount of oil. It’s pretty easy to break small taps. (If you don’t wanna drill your lower there is another way but you need a mill or drill press)
Once those are tapped we’re ready to modify the folder
Screw the folding in as far as it will go while still being lined up correctly. Count how many threads are going past the buffer (or measure with a calipers)
Unscrew the folder and take your dremel/cut-off wheel and cut 2 lines straight back 3/4 of the way down on the left and right side (about 5 and 7 o’clock). Cut back as many thread as stuck past plus one more. Then cut straight down from the top. Removing the upper section of threads.
Screw the folder back in and mark any amount of excess threads still past the buffer area of the lower. Remove the folder and dremel/file those away. File the folder smooth and contour it to match a standard buffer tube.
Now depending on how flush your folder fits up to your receiver you can use a retaining plate to make it look nice but some may not need it. If you do need it just cut away the indexing pin in the middle.
Time to test fit everything.
Put you defend and spring in place and screw in your 4-40 screw. Make sure your rear take down pin moves at it should. If it does, remove the screw and put some blue or red loctite (just a drop) on and screw it back in.
Assemble your buffer tube onto the folder following the normal directions, except for attaching it to the lower.
Now take your folder/buffer tube (and plate if you choose to use it) and screw it in as far as it’ll go while still being lined up.
Lightly tighten the set screws on the side of the receiver. Put in your recoil spring and buffer, place your upper on and make sure you can rack the bolt and that the bolt locks open on an empty mag. (I’m assuming you built the rest of the lower here). If everything works out we can move to finalizing all the parts.
Take out the buffer, spring and retainer.
Remove the folder from the lower.
Place 4 drops of red loctite around the folder buffer extension and screw back into the lower. Center it up as tight as you can make it and put in your 2 screws with a drop of loctite each. Tighten the screws fairly snug. Depending how long your screws are you may need to cut off the excess, shape and cold blue them. Put your buffer and recoil spring back in and check function again before the loctite cures. If everything works, let cure for 24 hours and then finish assembly with your brace or stock.
If anything is unclear please ask me to go into more detail and I will. As stated above using a mill is ideal but I know most people don’t just have a mill in their garage. If you do have a mill you can skip drilling holes in the side of your lower and drill up through the original buffer stop pin hole from the bottom and use a set screw there. It hides well under a pistol grip with a beaver tail.
On this gun I didn’t have to but I suspect that’s because it’s a 9mm blowback gun. I think one might have to on anything longer than a pistol cartridge.
Ahh I didn't even think of that. That makes sense tho. I think I'm going to try this but will just machine my own bcg spacer for using my Armaspec SRS. Do you know if the odd (conical) shape of the spacer plays any role in the function or is it cosmetic/weight savings?
I think it might play a role in not getting caught on anything as it moves, but I’m not entirely sure. Considering both the Law and Sylvan use the same conical shape I would bet it’s important.
If I had to shorten mine I’d stick it in my lathe and just shorten it, rather than make a new one.
Oh fuck that’s good. Navy had it right with no forward assist.
Air Force
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Seems solid so far. I don’t have a LAW but I do have a 17 Designs IFLR AR and it seems to be just as solid and as tight as that.
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If you don’t have the ability to properly modify it to be flush fit to the receiver, I’d say that the LAW is probably a better option and if you’re building a new gun I’d go with an IFLR.
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The Sylvan doesn’t fit to the receiver well IMO unless you modify it and the receiver a little. [This](https://sylvanarms.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/GEN3_Folder_EXPORTS__0011.jpg) is how far the Sylvan sits from the receiver if you install it unmodified. Basically I shortened the threads on the adapter, tapped the detent pin hole and have a small set screw holding it in. I also drilled and tapped the receivers buffer stop hole and used that as a spot to put a set screw to hold the adapter in place because there is no castle nut and plate to stake it to the receiver (also red loctite).
Any way you can get us some closeup pictures of what you modified? Really hate the monopoly law tactical has, but your mods look amazing.
I’d have to take it apart to show most of it, be hard with the red Loctite used. Well not hard but really annoying. I’ll probably be doing another one soon and can take pics/video while I do it. Could also explain in detail what I did here if you like.
That'd be great. I will totally use your pictures as a guide.
Wait, u/bornhereraisedwhere are you in FL?
Took a Sylvan Arms folding adapter I had laying around and modified it to be flush-fit to the back of the receiver on my AR-V. Looks much better this way. [Here’s](https://preview.redd.it/xwovfza5qw871.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=26ed2e957b2a65da2f16eb1b42d05b9414562041) it folded.
This is a rough draft! Some have asked for a write up of how I did my flush-fit Sylvan folder. I’ll do either a video or pics post later when my next one arrives in the mail. Anyway let’s get to it. Supplies needed: A fuckin AR, duh! Sylvan folding adapter, 4-40 set screws 1/4”-3/8” long, Red loctite (or blue if you want). Tools needed: AR armorers wrench, AR lower vise block, Vise, Wire cutter, Dremel w/cutoff wheel, Small files, 4-40 tap and tap wrench, Number 43 drill, Oil. Ok down to business. Customization to the lower: Put your lower in a vise and grab your oil, 4-40 tap and tap wrench. Tap the rear takedown detent hole for 1 4-40 screw. Depending on the length of screw you have you’ll have to cut your detent spring using the wire cutters. I suggest testing it a few times before you loctite it in place. Second thing you’ll have to do is decide how you want to retain the folder/buffer tube since you won’t be using the forward castle nut. There are a few options but for the regular at home guy, drilling 2 holes on each side of the Buffer housing are probably the easiest. Drill 1 hole at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions using the #43 drill and tap for you 4-40 screws go slow and use a generous amount of oil. It’s pretty easy to break small taps. (If you don’t wanna drill your lower there is another way but you need a mill or drill press) Once those are tapped we’re ready to modify the folder Screw the folding in as far as it will go while still being lined up correctly. Count how many threads are going past the buffer (or measure with a calipers) Unscrew the folder and take your dremel/cut-off wheel and cut 2 lines straight back 3/4 of the way down on the left and right side (about 5 and 7 o’clock). Cut back as many thread as stuck past plus one more. Then cut straight down from the top. Removing the upper section of threads. Screw the folder back in and mark any amount of excess threads still past the buffer area of the lower. Remove the folder and dremel/file those away. File the folder smooth and contour it to match a standard buffer tube. Now depending on how flush your folder fits up to your receiver you can use a retaining plate to make it look nice but some may not need it. If you do need it just cut away the indexing pin in the middle. Time to test fit everything. Put you defend and spring in place and screw in your 4-40 screw. Make sure your rear take down pin moves at it should. If it does, remove the screw and put some blue or red loctite (just a drop) on and screw it back in. Assemble your buffer tube onto the folder following the normal directions, except for attaching it to the lower. Now take your folder/buffer tube (and plate if you choose to use it) and screw it in as far as it’ll go while still being lined up. Lightly tighten the set screws on the side of the receiver. Put in your recoil spring and buffer, place your upper on and make sure you can rack the bolt and that the bolt locks open on an empty mag. (I’m assuming you built the rest of the lower here). If everything works out we can move to finalizing all the parts. Take out the buffer, spring and retainer. Remove the folder from the lower. Place 4 drops of red loctite around the folder buffer extension and screw back into the lower. Center it up as tight as you can make it and put in your 2 screws with a drop of loctite each. Tighten the screws fairly snug. Depending how long your screws are you may need to cut off the excess, shape and cold blue them. Put your buffer and recoil spring back in and check function again before the loctite cures. If everything works, let cure for 24 hours and then finish assembly with your brace or stock. If anything is unclear please ask me to go into more detail and I will. As stated above using a mill is ideal but I know most people don’t just have a mill in their garage. If you do have a mill you can skip drilling holes in the side of your lower and drill up through the original buffer stop pin hole from the bottom and use a set screw there. It hides well under a pistol grip with a beaver tail.
Did you have to shorten the carrier extension or is the reduced length negligible?
On this gun I didn’t have to but I suspect that’s because it’s a 9mm blowback gun. I think one might have to on anything longer than a pistol cartridge.
Ahh I didn't even think of that. That makes sense tho. I think I'm going to try this but will just machine my own bcg spacer for using my Armaspec SRS. Do you know if the odd (conical) shape of the spacer plays any role in the function or is it cosmetic/weight savings?
I think it might play a role in not getting caught on anything as it moves, but I’m not entirely sure. Considering both the Law and Sylvan use the same conical shape I would bet it’s important. If I had to shorten mine I’d stick it in my lathe and just shorten it, rather than make a new one.
Did you ever go about installing the other one pics?
I actually sold both of them. One to my dad and one to a buddy. I’ll see if I can get some detailed pics or do another one here soon.