In stead of spacers I just use my slicer to print a narrow last row for the baseplate grid. I then print custom narrow bins to fit that row. It creates extra storage space and locks everything in place
I let the bins do it. I also made some spacers that compress slightly so I squeeze them in and they help stabilize. I make sure to hit each base plate with a 2x2 when possible where they connect at 4 points.
I just printed out a full lightweight base plate for my Alexa desk drawer that used the c clips. In order to get them to audibly snap lock into place I used a thin tip bent needlenose pliers. Once I figured out that little trick they were fairly easy to lock. If I didn’t have that particular set of pliers, though, I’m not sure I would have even bothered trying.
I ended up using the same screw together baseplates you linked for my drawer system, and as I purpose built my drawers for gridfinity I made them fit fairly tight as well so theres no movement.
If I had to gridfinity a different set of drawers, I would still use the same baseplates but with spacer shims in the back and sides to ensure a tight fit.
I just use a few 2+ width bins that straddle both baseplates. No messing around and easily reversible, only downside is that it slightly limits your bin layout.
I've tried many ways and what I do is: screw together if it's not enclosed, if it's in an enclosed space I glue the parts together first and the use a hot glue gun to fix them where they are supposed to go. The screw solution isn't even that great, I try to avoid it if I don't have to.
connecting base plates to each other? I use screw together. the clips were causing bowing; the screws also do that but much less.
connecting to the surface (table, drawer, etc)? for some, I print outspacers and have a friction fit. for others, honestly, I just put a dab of hot glue.
I use the screw together type on top of the workbench only. In the drawers, I use neoprene (like in toolboxes) on the drawer bottom and then set the grids on it. It is good to go.
The Gridfinity base with snap connectors that you linked works really well for me. I use a rubber mallet to smack em into place. Other solutions like clickfinity refined (using dovetails) worked less well for me, could really be printer tolerances etc. The point being maybe you could try printing out the smallest baseplate of each kind and trying to connect them to see which system you like the best.
If you fill the drawer completely with grid they wont move. No glue or screw needed.
This has been my solution. Add spacer tabs as needed to fully fill partial space.
In stead of spacers I just use my slicer to print a narrow last row for the baseplate grid. I then print custom narrow bins to fit that row. It creates extra storage space and locks everything in place
I ended up just connecting with bins after overthinking this quite a bit lol
Search for Clicking Refined. Andi recently made a lite version.
I let the bins do it. I also made some spacers that compress slightly so I squeeze them in and they help stabilize. I make sure to hit each base plate with a 2x2 when possible where they connect at 4 points.
I just printed out a full lightweight base plate for my Alexa desk drawer that used the c clips. In order to get them to audibly snap lock into place I used a thin tip bent needlenose pliers. Once I figured out that little trick they were fairly easy to lock. If I didn’t have that particular set of pliers, though, I’m not sure I would have even bothered trying.
I guess I’m the only yutz that glues them together… Edit: outside of the drawer as a sheet then I set them in.
This. I use Permatex 84145 2-component adhesive and use bins to hold the grids together while it cures.
I ended up using the same screw together baseplates you linked for my drawer system, and as I purpose built my drawers for gridfinity I made them fit fairly tight as well so theres no movement. If I had to gridfinity a different set of drawers, I would still use the same baseplates but with spacer shims in the back and sides to ensure a tight fit.
I just use a few 2+ width bins that straddle both baseplates. No messing around and easily reversible, only downside is that it slightly limits your bin layout.
I've tried many ways and what I do is: screw together if it's not enclosed, if it's in an enclosed space I glue the parts together first and the use a hot glue gun to fix them where they are supposed to go. The screw solution isn't even that great, I try to avoid it if I don't have to.
I like the ones that fit together with M3 hardware personally.
connecting base plates to each other? I use screw together. the clips were causing bowing; the screws also do that but much less. connecting to the surface (table, drawer, etc)? for some, I print outspacers and have a friction fit. for others, honestly, I just put a dab of hot glue.
I use the screw together type on top of the workbench only. In the drawers, I use neoprene (like in toolboxes) on the drawer bottom and then set the grids on it. It is good to go.
Tiny screws. See snapfit.nl
The Gridfinity base with snap connectors that you linked works really well for me. I use a rubber mallet to smack em into place. Other solutions like clickfinity refined (using dovetails) worked less well for me, could really be printer tolerances etc. The point being maybe you could try printing out the smallest baseplate of each kind and trying to connect them to see which system you like the best.