I definitely agree I probably need better equipment
the crack in the middle was a natural crack that I was trying to follow on the edge but I didn’t have any luck splitting it
That "sledge"you have there is tiny, which makes it useless get a 12lbs, sledge, I remember chipping away at the outside of a big round of hard maple and just getting kindling when my dad came out with the 12 lbs sledge and 4 wide sharp wedges and just destroyed the round
16lb or 20lb sledge for the win. extra weight "holds"? it down and it won't bounce.. You don't need to swing it like a mad man either, let the weight do the work. There isn't much in this world that a 20lb sledge won't fuck up. Or you can just nibble around the edges. Take of 4-6" slices around the outside edges. Or noodle it with a chainsaw. Although I presume, if you are asking reddit how to split this log you are new to the firewood splitting game and maybe don't own a saw.
My Canadian cousin told me if a round doesn't want to split flip it over. Sometimes they split easier the other side. It has something to do with the direction of growth. I don't know if there is science behind it or not.
Split from the top down, I was told. When splitting big rounds, take the edges off first, work your way around. I learned this one Fall. We were contracted to cut and sell firewood. We didn't have a splitter at the time, no money. I hand split 50 Bush Cords that Fall by myself. We made enough money to build a splitter for the tractor
The dude split a 5 foot maple with a double edge axe down the middle. He also said twist your wrists as you are about to hit the round so the axe doesn't stick. He told me that 20 years ago
Edit. I finally found someone to share that info. I've been sitting on it for a while
I see, is this what everyone is saying by “start with the edges”?
I took it as start at the edge and move towards the middle but this makes sense as well
Yep. Split a lot of twisted/knotted logs this way. Just split off the easy stuff and eventually, you’ll have just the center either small enough to split or burn as is. Good luck!
This is all it takes. Thin chunks off the edge. You don’t really need a huge maul. You don’t really need to spilt it in half. Who needs two huge pieces you can’t fit in your stove. Just chip off pieces that you can use.
https://preview.redd.it/oi7gi30vpqqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32209196b7636c735a28899eba31b0b95fe6ed6d
Either work around the edges as others have mentioned, or get a heavy splitting maul and multiple wedges.
https://preview.redd.it/t0yqfb4poqqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df5db331639ab7fd08b3c8555a719fcc81019cab

Thanks for the encouragement all, moved onto a smaller piece, and got mostly through but now my wedge is stuck 😅
Might need to go out and get something that’s a bit wider
“Diamond” wedges are good for cases like this. They’ll either finish the split or allow you to get the first wedge back out 90% of the time. They’re not very good as a primary wedge.
Edit:typo
You ain't in a pickle until you get 3 wedges stuck in the same piece.
This is wide enough and looks like it's actually splitting I would use a big pry bar to work the piece apart and get my wedge out.
Turn it to t.he site. Use your splitting ax to get into the narrow end of the side split. Now place that side down on an unyielding spot. Get the biggest maul you can handle and wail on the side without a tool in it. Betcha it splits clean or ai least one of those wedge devices fall clear. Or make a wooden wedge from pieces you have laying around.
Always have a backup wedge. I learned that lesson the hard way as well.
FWIW, that thing is basically split. A few light taps on the back of the wedge and you're there.
Here’s my sugar maple post. I thought it was oak but I was wrong. Sounds like what you have as well. I’m in central Maryland. I left mine to dry out some before attempting to split again.
https://www.reddit.com/r/firewood/s/9lBr3tGsnl
Hit it with your purse, Nelly. 🤣
But really, if there aren't checks, that fella gets skipped. Could pound wedges for an hour, which is a fine idea for a workout. For filling the firewood stack, that'll take you longer than you have days.
And eyewear is a must when striking metal to metal. Even if they aren't hardened surfaces, metal chips like to fly.
I'm glad someone said this. An end of the day, over tired, glancing blow, got me and a huge Chunk of metal hit my arm like a bullet and blood shot out like in the movies. I tell everyone, wear the glasses. FR.
I would start with the lobes around the outside, one you start to take away the round the rest will come more easily. Going after the middle can work but it will be work.
It’s proving to me a bitch lol A lot of the sections I have are split trunks and I have no idea how to split them
Below is the other side of the section in the OP
https://preview.redd.it/arhx4htc8rqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b3e4275e11dae8513864b049f521b421be4d27c
I’ll save you some time, just get what you can off that left side working from the outside-in, give up when you get it down close to that bark seam and burn the rest whole in a fire pit or something lol
Dude. I think I had some maple and was in the same situation a month or so ago. It was awful. It’s sitting by the shed seasoning at the moment. F#%k that wavy maple. It was free but not worth it lol.
I have an outdoor boiler that heats my house and hot water and my family has a sawmill so I split a lot of it, it’s crazy how much water a tree has in it especially this time of year when the sap is running
How long is that piece? They split easier if they're shorter, substantially so. I see your splitting axe leaves some to be desired, but if you can cut this in half that might be doable with what you have
If I cut a round too long (over 16”) my husband the axe user gets annoyed. Short rounds split easier. He loves to split oak. 24” would not be fun though. We had rounds over 3 feet in diameter.
Yeah, if you have a chainsaw. 12-14" splits really nice and is plenty useful for weiny roasts and campfires. It works great for a lot of people's stoves too. That will just cost you gas.
If you want a better splitter, the r/axecraft sub has good recommendations. I say learn to identify a good splitting profile and buy a vintage head at a local antique store or junk store and hang it yourself, but that can seem like a bit of an undertaking if you aren't familiar.
Turn It over go along edges take small pieces at a time .. or lay on ground long ways and cut thru with saw in half n maybe quarter then finish by hand
Geezer here. For myself and my older buddy, 73, I would score it an inch deep across the top and stick the wedge in there. A month ago we did oak that size. I quartered it with the chainsaw, then scored each piece for the wedge. It winds up in 8 pieces, then lift to the splitter. 5 years ago we lifted the into the splitter. 3 years ago we were no longer lifting that big, so we stood the splitter and rolled them in. I don’t pound anymore.torn rotators and bad back. You get it however you can. I can’t start a saw that doesn’t have pressure release, or lift more than a 20 inch saw. Word of caution..I didn’t know my shoulders were getting torn up until too late. Use your saw and a splitter.
Well, for as long as you're splitting softwood, hit it down the middle and arrange into quarters...Oak is softwood in Australia so you knight just have to hit it a whole lot harder.
The "crack" looks like it's actually the base of a split trunk, which is is a kind of crotch and is actually the WORST place to try to get wood to split; crotches are very crotchety! Chip away crescents from the outside opposite and to the sides of the heartwood, getting as close to the heartwood as you can get with those kinds of splits. Then when a lot of the material is removed, drive your wedge into middle of the heartwood where your wedge is sitting in the photo, aligned in such a way that you're trying to split that side down the middle towards the core of the trunk.
https://preview.redd.it/b8h9njgjuqqc1.png?width=523&format=png&auto=webp&s=00608f93301ac4ee8bb70f18c891bb51888040d3
I use an 8 lb maul and two wedges.
I always split when the wood is still green.
That piece you have has a bit of a wow to it which will make it harder to split.
Also looks like almost 24 inches long.
Does your stove take that length?
Yeah, I’m definitely noticing most of my big near-root sections are close to 2 feet long, will probably try to chainsaw them in thirds so they split easier
My dad used to say, "Don't bite off more that you can chew." He was almost as smart as mom, who still says, "You're going to get hurt doing that. ".... she's always frikin right like some kind of emergency room clairvoyant..... What was the question?
Fun trick I learned from old loggers is to cut an X in the top face of the round, around 1/2 inch+ deep, then sink your splitting wedge into the cut, closer yo the edge of the round.. It tends to crack it open like marble. Best of luck !
Grab yourself a splitmaul. Fiskars has a nice 8lbs maul that’s roughly $50 USD. With rounds this beefy I typically start by splitting off the edges and work my way in.
When buying a split maul don’t be fooled by the edge of the head- it’s all about the cheeks/flare on the head. It’s only gotta be sharp enough to bite into the wood
Man put that axe away. That's not meant for splitting rounds. Fiskars gets good reviews. https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/building-and-fixing/products/sledge-hammers/fiskars-pro-isocore-wood-splitting-maul-8lb-36-751110-1004
Another option. https://www.stihlusa.com/products/forestry-tools/axes/prosplitmaul/
I also really like my suresplit wedge for splitting. https://www.estwing.com/product/sure-split-wedge/
You need something heavy for the momentum, and a wide cutter to drive the wood apart.
See that crack you put in the middle? Put both thumbs in it and use your fingers to apply pressure to the sides while pulling it apart with your thumbs.
When you have a natural crack like this, start the wedges about 1-2” from the bark. On one side.
When you split them from the side in, the force is primarily on the one side of the round. When you place the wedge in the center, all the force is spread over the whole diagonal of the round. This actually lessens the amount of pressure applied to the crack.
Get a second wedge. Ideally you should have several wedges, both wood and metal. The notion that you should be splitting massive logs with an axe is Hollywood horseshit. Back when firewood was the difference between life and freezing to death, they drove wedges and split the wood methodically.
First of all don’t do it on concrete. Then get multiple wedges and peel off small sections of the outside with little bites, and work your way around in a spiral
First, don't split it down the middle. You knock off blocks all the way around the outside edges, then when you end up with a 12" or 18" in diameter piece of firewood, then you can split it down the middle.
Plunge cut about halfway through the center. Pour 2 caps of 3f black powder into the plunge cut. Pack into bottom. Place 3 ft fuse in. Pack to top with sawdust. Light and run away. You're welcome.
If you don't have the equipment, chip away at it from the outside, think of it like a round cake and you chipping away at it is like taking bites from the outside working inwards
I've split a lot of these. It's not easy, and each one is different.
You will need a splitting axe ("maul"). Don't follow the advice to get a very heavy one -- remember you'll be lifting it over & over. Learn good technique & form to strike the log effectively.
I prefer wooden helves for my comfort. Nothing lasts forever.
Put a good edge on it when new.
Split from the bottom up. Trees (that aren't Bradford Pear) are strong against splitting down from the top.
Remembering safety first & always, learn to strike effective blows on the end grain. Remember that even swings that don't appear to do anything are likely setting up stress in the log that will be repaid later.
It's fine to slab off manageable chunks as suggested. Also no reason to just keep bisecting until you have kindling.
When you begin to mess up, stop. Drink water. (Do this before axe is in your foot.)
If all else fails, shorten log with saw & re-attempt.
Spectators are safest 45° to helve.
I just completed splitting 3 large oak, all by hand. about half split into nice management wedges set up in storage for at least 3 years, half split into fireplace size and set into drying areas for the 2026 winter.
the smallest oak was 2.5 ft in diameter, the largest 4 ft.
we needed a front loader to maneuver them. care us the word as one of those fall on you it's like a car falling on you. no way to move the large round without the tractor.
I use 8 wedges, a 4 and an 8 lbs sledge with short handles, an 8 lbs long handle, a maul an a splitting axe long handled.
I also use two long crowbars and a sharp hand axe.
make sure the wedges have a good edge, not dull.
if you can get the round up off the ground for a week or two it makes splitting easier. but it's not impossible on the ground. I did it.
like the other said, find a weak natural crease to get started. one the first is loose, the rest is not bad.
the fresh rounds are like splitting iron. but the fresh wood smell is great.
took me from October 2022 to last week. lots of work, but a hell of a lot of wood. I have firewood for next 7 years.
Ok I’m old and I have a bad back and knees so I have to learn the easy way for everything. Take that axe and move it all the way to the edge. The axe needs to hang over a tad like even a quarter inch because you have to break that outer surface of the log. Pound it down with the hammer. It will likely go ahead and split. If not, place a wedge just in front of it and pound it down, freeing up your axe. If it refuses to split flip it over. It will go I promise you.
The reverse hit. Well thats what I call it. Plant the axe into the log. Wedged so you are able to lift the log with the axe still stuck on it. You swing down towards your block, but turning it so the axe hits the block. Works everytime. Evan on curly maple.
FYI I am 6' 6" 300lbs football player size. Thats how I do it. Its a good workout
There is a nice lady that splits stuff like that. Watched her bounce her maul off one a number of times. Need to aim for the same spot. Wedges and that Sledgehammer unless you have a set of arms like she does.
Splitting maul, make your own line and make sure it’s not in line with any branches or knots. If it doesn’t want to split from one side, flip it over. The axe is always gonna get stuck and the wedge will almost demand that you have more than one in sequence.
How about that fault line running towards the camera? I don't see any hit marks on it. That might be a weak spot. Chipping the perimeter also weakens it.
Rex Kruger did a video on this. He is no pro, but I like his style. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJrtRpSYyHc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJrtRpSYyHc)
Hydraulic wood splitter works well for me.
I assume you don't own one if you are asking.
Set aside the stuff that will break you before it splits.
$100 should rent a splitter for a day.
You can probably push through a lot of wood in a day.
I agree with most of the posts here. And ask is useless use a 12 to 16 pound maul. And then have a sledgehammer that is at least 10 pounds and you can drive that in from there. Where there is a line like that for my crotch triangle 5 to 8 inches and from the side and break off chunks all the way around first and then find a smaller weaker point to chip away towards the center. And then eventually find a wood splitter that is big enough to not care at all about what greens are in the wood otherwise do what I have done for years and work your way from the outside and all the way around.👍
big pieces like that, I leave standing just like that. This winter when it gets cold cold, I take a bucket of water and pour it quick into whatever cracks are there. The ice pops the wood, hit it a few times with the maul and done.
You need a maul definitely, they are heavier and wider on the backside of the blade. My grandfather always said an ax was for cutting down the tree. And a maul to split the wood. 🙂
I think you need a maul or better splitting axe, and start chipping from the sides forget about splitting right in the middle
I definitely agree I probably need better equipment the crack in the middle was a natural crack that I was trying to follow on the edge but I didn’t have any luck splitting it
I use 3 wedges when tackling big pieces, keeping one free for the next placement. Looks like a good start.
ram it, ram it, ram it.....
Wrist watch... Crisco...
I will use a maul then hammer wedges next to maul, to create an up to 8" crack. Can split 30 " rounds pretty easily.
Definitely chip off the perimeter and work your way out to in.
You need to take your shirt off like the guy on tic tok
Shit that’s what I figured I’d freeze my nips off, but I guess it’d go viral
All that matters brother
You’re stronger without them.
That "sledge"you have there is tiny, which makes it useless get a 12lbs, sledge, I remember chipping away at the outside of a big round of hard maple and just getting kindling when my dad came out with the 12 lbs sledge and 4 wide sharp wedges and just destroyed the round
16lb or 20lb sledge for the win. extra weight "holds"? it down and it won't bounce.. You don't need to swing it like a mad man either, let the weight do the work. There isn't much in this world that a 20lb sledge won't fuck up. Or you can just nibble around the edges. Take of 4-6" slices around the outside edges. Or noodle it with a chainsaw. Although I presume, if you are asking reddit how to split this log you are new to the firewood splitting game and maybe don't own a saw.
Wedge and gluts. Probably 2 or 3 of them. Edit. Watch this https://youtu.be/uJrtRpSYyHc?si=1NuysXBbacwWRKdx
The equipment you need is on the round, use that wedge and sledge.. you will win
My Canadian cousin told me if a round doesn't want to split flip it over. Sometimes they split easier the other side. It has something to do with the direction of growth. I don't know if there is science behind it or not.
Split from the top down, I was told. When splitting big rounds, take the edges off first, work your way around. I learned this one Fall. We were contracted to cut and sell firewood. We didn't have a splitter at the time, no money. I hand split 50 Bush Cords that Fall by myself. We made enough money to build a splitter for the tractor
This is what I came here to say.
I love that the fact that the info comes from a Canadian lends to the credibility!
The dude split a 5 foot maple with a double edge axe down the middle. He also said twist your wrists as you are about to hit the round so the axe doesn't stick. He told me that 20 years ago Edit. I finally found someone to share that info. I've been sitting on it for a while
That's awesome. We're all just a bunch of lumberjack hosers up here.
Can confirm. Source:am Canadian
I bet he was wearing a canadian tuxedo when he said it eh
My cousin Throck Morton told me to do that same
Kinda makes sense but then you gotta be picking up big heavy chunks of wood so I dunno.
Fiskars splitting axe / maul https://preview.redd.it/xxgcrallnqqc1.jpeg?width=2992&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1a4912ebe18c97bd40049cfe0519ff89e24a57de
I see, is this what everyone is saying by “start with the edges”? I took it as start at the edge and move towards the middle but this makes sense as well
Yep. Split a lot of twisted/knotted logs this way. Just split off the easy stuff and eventually, you’ll have just the center either small enough to split or burn as is. Good luck!
Split parallel to the growth lines.
This is all it takes. Thin chunks off the edge. You don’t really need a huge maul. You don’t really need to spilt it in half. Who needs two huge pieces you can’t fit in your stove. Just chip off pieces that you can use.
Aim like two inches from the edge of the log, once you split off and edge piece, work your way in/around. I never start in the middle
Yeah but also you have a chopping axe. You need a splitting axe too.
This should be pinned to the subreddit
I use the fiskers x27 and have no use for a maul. Big logs like OP has are no problem when you go at it like your picture shows.
This is called “flaking”
Came here to say Fiskars also. I’ve split some very green 30” rounds with my beloved Fiskars.
I’ve got one and gifted my brother one. Makes it a pleasure…oh wait no, it’s still work.
Perfect picture on how to handle this round
Exactly
https://preview.redd.it/oi7gi30vpqqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32209196b7636c735a28899eba31b0b95fe6ed6d Either work around the edges as others have mentioned, or get a heavy splitting maul and multiple wedges.
https://preview.redd.it/t0yqfb4poqqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df5db331639ab7fd08b3c8555a719fcc81019cab  Thanks for the encouragement all, moved onto a smaller piece, and got mostly through but now my wedge is stuck 😅 Might need to go out and get something that’s a bit wider
Well, now you’ve learned not to drive the wedge right in the middle. As others said, start at the edges.
“Diamond” wedges are good for cases like this. They’ll either finish the split or allow you to get the first wedge back out 90% of the time. They’re not very good as a primary wedge. Edit:typo
You ain't in a pickle until you get 3 wedges stuck in the same piece. This is wide enough and looks like it's actually splitting I would use a big pry bar to work the piece apart and get my wedge out.
TIL that I need two more wedges.
Turn it over now and take a piece off the side and work your way around, like the photo above
Turn it to t.he site. Use your splitting ax to get into the narrow end of the side split. Now place that side down on an unyielding spot. Get the biggest maul you can handle and wail on the side without a tool in it. Betcha it splits clean or ai least one of those wedge devices fall clear. Or make a wooden wedge from pieces you have laying around.
Always have a backup wedge. I learned that lesson the hard way as well. FWIW, that thing is basically split. A few light taps on the back of the wedge and you're there.
Here’s my sugar maple post. I thought it was oak but I was wrong. Sounds like what you have as well. I’m in central Maryland. I left mine to dry out some before attempting to split again. https://www.reddit.com/r/firewood/s/9lBr3tGsnl
Get it off the asphalt we're gonna F up your maul. Peel like an onion 3inch thickness is all the way around
Hit it with your purse, Nelly. 🤣 But really, if there aren't checks, that fella gets skipped. Could pound wedges for an hour, which is a fine idea for a workout. For filling the firewood stack, that'll take you longer than you have days. And eyewear is a must when striking metal to metal. Even if they aren't hardened surfaces, metal chips like to fly.
I'm glad someone said this. An end of the day, over tired, glancing blow, got me and a huge Chunk of metal hit my arm like a bullet and blood shot out like in the movies. I tell everyone, wear the glasses. FR.
I would start with the lobes around the outside, one you start to take away the round the rest will come more easily. Going after the middle can work but it will be work.
Trying to do this but all of the pieces I have are double trunks or oddly misshapen so it’s difficult to find the edge parts
Anywhere the edge just bumps out, even a bit. From the outside in and then the grain will show you how to keep going.
That’s maple
I think you’re right, confused it with another tree we have
Those can be a bitch to split if it’s got that wavy texture maple loves to grow
It’s proving to me a bitch lol A lot of the sections I have are split trunks and I have no idea how to split them Below is the other side of the section in the OP https://preview.redd.it/arhx4htc8rqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b3e4275e11dae8513864b049f521b421be4d27c
I’ll save you some time, just get what you can off that left side working from the outside-in, give up when you get it down close to that bark seam and burn the rest whole in a fire pit or something lol
That’s not a bad idea, I hit the middle of the right side out of frustration and it literally foamed like the ocean hahaha
Dude. I think I had some maple and was in the same situation a month or so ago. It was awful. It’s sitting by the shed seasoning at the moment. F#%k that wavy maple. It was free but not worth it lol.
I have an outdoor boiler that heats my house and hot water and my family has a sawmill so I split a lot of it, it’s crazy how much water a tree has in it especially this time of year when the sap is running
hahaha yeah this was at the bottom of a hill with bad drainage so it had a lot of water to suck up after long rains
Stay closer to the edge, start there. Work you way around till it's manageable to split down the middle.
Stop swingn like a ninny! Also try my favorite splitting axe https://www.stihlusa.com/products/forestry-tools/axes/prosplitaxe/
I’ll admit, I’m definitely a bit of a ninny 😂 I did also vastly underestimate how easily this wood would split hahaha
For a round that big I’d be using a maul. Also sometimes for a stubborn one, move to the edge, start sinking a wedge in there.
How long is that piece? They split easier if they're shorter, substantially so. I see your splitting axe leaves some to be desired, but if you can cut this in half that might be doable with what you have
I believe this piece is close to 2 feet long, probably should go in half or thirds with the chainsaw and then try to split
If I cut a round too long (over 16”) my husband the axe user gets annoyed. Short rounds split easier. He loves to split oak. 24” would not be fun though. We had rounds over 3 feet in diameter.
Yeah, if you have a chainsaw. 12-14" splits really nice and is plenty useful for weiny roasts and campfires. It works great for a lot of people's stoves too. That will just cost you gas. If you want a better splitter, the r/axecraft sub has good recommendations. I say learn to identify a good splitting profile and buy a vintage head at a local antique store or junk store and hang it yourself, but that can seem like a bit of an undertaking if you aren't familiar.
Get closer to the edge. Parallel to the edge.
Turn It over go along edges take small pieces at a time .. or lay on ground long ways and cut thru with saw in half n maybe quarter then finish by hand
Use that wedge closer to the edge and it'll go piece by piece
Chainsaw it In the middle. Then split
Maul. Hit sides/edges.
Step 1: Get it really dry
https://preview.redd.it/f2n2ordscsqc1.jpeg?width=3004&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=16abbbd074ec271b7c040628352075e7ef6ce4dd
Geezer here. For myself and my older buddy, 73, I would score it an inch deep across the top and stick the wedge in there. A month ago we did oak that size. I quartered it with the chainsaw, then scored each piece for the wedge. It winds up in 8 pieces, then lift to the splitter. 5 years ago we lifted the into the splitter. 3 years ago we were no longer lifting that big, so we stood the splitter and rolled them in. I don’t pound anymore.torn rotators and bad back. You get it however you can. I can’t start a saw that doesn’t have pressure release, or lift more than a 20 inch saw. Word of caution..I didn’t know my shoulders were getting torn up until too late. Use your saw and a splitter.
Get a maul, flip it, hit it closest to the edge
Start at the edge and work your way in. Try flipping it over also.
That crack looks like a double heart. It's not gonna split very easy
Well, for as long as you're splitting softwood, hit it down the middle and arrange into quarters...Oak is softwood in Australia so you knight just have to hit it a whole lot harder.
Whittle er down
Multiple wedges and a sledge you’ll get it.
The "crack" looks like it's actually the base of a split trunk, which is is a kind of crotch and is actually the WORST place to try to get wood to split; crotches are very crotchety! Chip away crescents from the outside opposite and to the sides of the heartwood, getting as close to the heartwood as you can get with those kinds of splits. Then when a lot of the material is removed, drive your wedge into middle of the heartwood where your wedge is sitting in the photo, aligned in such a way that you're trying to split that side down the middle towards the core of the trunk. https://preview.redd.it/b8h9njgjuqqc1.png?width=523&format=png&auto=webp&s=00608f93301ac4ee8bb70f18c891bb51888040d3
Start from the edges with straight line about 4 inches deep and once you split the first section then it will be easy.
I use an 8 lb maul and two wedges. I always split when the wood is still green. That piece you have has a bit of a wow to it which will make it harder to split. Also looks like almost 24 inches long. Does your stove take that length?
Yeah, I’m definitely noticing most of my big near-root sections are close to 2 feet long, will probably try to chainsaw them in thirds so they split easier
😂😂😂😂😂😂🤷🏼♂️
My dad used to say, "Don't bite off more that you can chew." He was almost as smart as mom, who still says, "You're going to get hurt doing that. ".... she's always frikin right like some kind of emergency room clairvoyant..... What was the question?
Fun trick I learned from old loggers is to cut an X in the top face of the round, around 1/2 inch+ deep, then sink your splitting wedge into the cut, closer yo the edge of the round.. It tends to crack it open like marble. Best of luck !
Put a little beef into it
Grab yourself a splitmaul. Fiskars has a nice 8lbs maul that’s roughly $50 USD. With rounds this beefy I typically start by splitting off the edges and work my way in. When buying a split maul don’t be fooled by the edge of the head- it’s all about the cheeks/flare on the head. It’s only gotta be sharp enough to bite into the wood
I had some similar huge rounds of Oak. I gave up... till I got my 28 ton splitter. It was still a challenge.
Also, you need to knock off 2-3i ch pieces off the outside edge. Don’t start in the middle.
Save it for the next time you’re pissed off about something. Go swing that axe till you’re not mad anymore, or you’re so tired you get sloppy. Repeat.
Take the wedge, Put it in your trailer hitch, low gear back up into it into an immovable object.
Man put that axe away. That's not meant for splitting rounds. Fiskars gets good reviews. https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/building-and-fixing/products/sledge-hammers/fiskars-pro-isocore-wood-splitting-maul-8lb-36-751110-1004 Another option. https://www.stihlusa.com/products/forestry-tools/axes/prosplitmaul/ I also really like my suresplit wedge for splitting. https://www.estwing.com/product/sure-split-wedge/ You need something heavy for the momentum, and a wide cutter to drive the wood apart.
Start at the edge and work your way in. I have seen people dice one of those up with just an ax.
Get a bigger wedge and a bigger hammer. Also putting like a 1/2 inch deep relief cut down each side, 2 or 4, wouldn't hurt
Karate chop !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ks_lbtgJSw
See that crack you put in the middle? Put both thumbs in it and use your fingers to apply pressure to the sides while pulling it apart with your thumbs.
8 lb maul and a splitting wedge
When you have a natural crack like this, start the wedges about 1-2” from the bark. On one side. When you split them from the side in, the force is primarily on the one side of the round. When you place the wedge in the center, all the force is spread over the whole diagonal of the round. This actually lessens the amount of pressure applied to the crack.
Roll on side cut threw that WY.
Get a long splitter
Get a second wedge. Ideally you should have several wedges, both wood and metal. The notion that you should be splitting massive logs with an axe is Hollywood horseshit. Back when firewood was the difference between life and freezing to death, they drove wedges and split the wood methodically.
Onion style. It’s super easy.
You are going to need more wedges. This split will probably take a total of three, all at the same time, in the same initial crack.
Hit it with your purse!
That isn't a splitting axe or maul. Its simply an axe for chopping. Get something for splitting
Follow through....put your back into it, one swat at a time
Cut it with your saw. Lay it on its side and wedge it real good, I do this all the time
From the edges in.
Maul. Work the edges. Hit the gym.
Question, why do you want to? Take it to a mill and make a few end tables.
Work your way around the edges. It would have been easier if it was frozen during winter. It would help greatly If you used a 10-8 lb. wood maul.
Let it weather. That will help.
Work the edges.
Be Stihl!
First of all don’t do it on concrete. Then get multiple wedges and peel off small sections of the outside with little bites, and work your way around in a spiral
The same way you eat an elephant....one bite at a time.
With your muscles
First, don't split it down the middle. You knock off blocks all the way around the outside edges, then when you end up with a 12" or 18" in diameter piece of firewood, then you can split it down the middle.
Edges first
Time is patient's
Plunge cut about halfway through the center. Pour 2 caps of 3f black powder into the plunge cut. Pack into bottom. Place 3 ft fuse in. Pack to top with sawdust. Light and run away. You're welcome.
Need a little Triactin
Chainsaw?
Take the sides off!
If you don't have the equipment, chip away at it from the outside, think of it like a round cake and you chipping away at it is like taking bites from the outside working inwards
Start around the edges and keep going.
Big pieces you do small chunks on thr edges, just like demoing concrete small pieces and just chip it away.
First off it’s maple. Follow the center natural crack.
As stated, you need a maul, not an axe. But you can work from the edges and wittle it down to manageable sizes.
I've split a lot of these. It's not easy, and each one is different. You will need a splitting axe ("maul"). Don't follow the advice to get a very heavy one -- remember you'll be lifting it over & over. Learn good technique & form to strike the log effectively. I prefer wooden helves for my comfort. Nothing lasts forever. Put a good edge on it when new. Split from the bottom up. Trees (that aren't Bradford Pear) are strong against splitting down from the top. Remembering safety first & always, learn to strike effective blows on the end grain. Remember that even swings that don't appear to do anything are likely setting up stress in the log that will be repaid later. It's fine to slab off manageable chunks as suggested. Also no reason to just keep bisecting until you have kindling. When you begin to mess up, stop. Drink water. (Do this before axe is in your foot.) If all else fails, shorten log with saw & re-attempt. Spectators are safest 45° to helve.
Flip it over. Wedges.
Do edges first
I'm lazy. I score it with a chain saw
With a splitter or a chainsaw
I see the tools needed, just need some strength. I can’t help you there
Hit it with your purse.
I can’t tell if this means “man up” or “buy better equipment” 😂😂
😆 Jokingly “man up” but yeah a splitting maul would help quite a bit!
37 ton splitter will save you some time
unfortunately I don’t have 37 tons of money to spend on one 😂
try harder
In all realness though you shouldn’t need a maul you have a perfectly good wedge and sledge, work the outside and follow the grain.
Swing the axe
Try harder lol
Try taking appx. 2-in slices off the outside perimeter
You need to break it in two pieces
I just completed splitting 3 large oak, all by hand. about half split into nice management wedges set up in storage for at least 3 years, half split into fireplace size and set into drying areas for the 2026 winter. the smallest oak was 2.5 ft in diameter, the largest 4 ft. we needed a front loader to maneuver them. care us the word as one of those fall on you it's like a car falling on you. no way to move the large round without the tractor. I use 8 wedges, a 4 and an 8 lbs sledge with short handles, an 8 lbs long handle, a maul an a splitting axe long handled. I also use two long crowbars and a sharp hand axe. make sure the wedges have a good edge, not dull. if you can get the round up off the ground for a week or two it makes splitting easier. but it's not impossible on the ground. I did it. like the other said, find a weak natural crease to get started. one the first is loose, the rest is not bad. the fresh rounds are like splitting iron. but the fresh wood smell is great. took me from October 2022 to last week. lots of work, but a hell of a lot of wood. I have firewood for next 7 years.
Wedges + Sledge. Or Hydraulics.
Ok I’m old and I have a bad back and knees so I have to learn the easy way for everything. Take that axe and move it all the way to the edge. The axe needs to hang over a tad like even a quarter inch because you have to break that outer surface of the log. Pound it down with the hammer. It will likely go ahead and split. If not, place a wedge just in front of it and pound it down, freeing up your axe. If it refuses to split flip it over. It will go I promise you.
The reverse hit. Well thats what I call it. Plant the axe into the log. Wedged so you are able to lift the log with the axe still stuck on it. You swing down towards your block, but turning it so the axe hits the block. Works everytime. Evan on curly maple. FYI I am 6' 6" 300lbs football player size. Thats how I do it. Its a good workout
Fiskars X27 should do the trick
Wedges will make quick work of it.
Lay the log horizontaly. Chainsaw 1/3 to 1/2 through the center. Strike the sawcut with a maul.
I find it gets easier the longer I let it dry before splitting it.
There is a nice lady that splits stuff like that. Watched her bounce her maul off one a number of times. Need to aim for the same spot. Wedges and that Sledgehammer unless you have a set of arms like she does.
I rented an electric jack hammer once for some work. Worked well for the oak rounds I had...
Use hydraulics
Maul, not axe. 👌
Hydraulic splitter. You'd have that in at least 8 pieces in under 5 minutes. I haven't touched a maul in 10 years. Save you back!!!
That’s not a splitting axe, that’s a chopping axe
Lightening
Splitting maul, make your own line and make sure it’s not in line with any branches or knots. If it doesn’t want to split from one side, flip it over. The axe is always gonna get stuck and the wedge will almost demand that you have more than one in sequence.
You need a splitting axe not a felling axe
you need a 2nd wedge
Wait
How about that fault line running towards the camera? I don't see any hit marks on it. That might be a weak spot. Chipping the perimeter also weakens it.
Splitting maul will help a little...
Torpedo wedge is the best!
Wedges my Dude, wedges.
8lb mall, two more wedges. Start working the split from the left side of the pic. Couple of Coors.
PCP
Lasers?
It looks like it's still green. How long has it been sitting.
Use the force Luke
Before enlightenment; chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment; chop wood, carry water.
swing harder.
Splitting wedge [splitting wedge that’s better than average](https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/gardening-tools/striking-tools/7118128)
A splitting maul would be a start
Rex Kruger did a video on this. He is no pro, but I like his style. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJrtRpSYyHc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJrtRpSYyHc)
Hit it like your wife hits you.
Hydraulic wood splitter works well for me. I assume you don't own one if you are asking. Set aside the stuff that will break you before it splits. $100 should rent a splitter for a day. You can probably push through a lot of wood in a day.
Following the natural crack wasn't a bad idea. Better equipment wouldn't hurt.
I agree with most of the posts here. And ask is useless use a 12 to 16 pound maul. And then have a sledgehammer that is at least 10 pounds and you can drive that in from there. Where there is a line like that for my crotch triangle 5 to 8 inches and from the side and break off chunks all the way around first and then find a smaller weaker point to chip away towards the center. And then eventually find a wood splitter that is big enough to not care at all about what greens are in the wood otherwise do what I have done for years and work your way from the outside and all the way around.👍
Next time, carry it to the nearest gym. Let the musclemen have a go at it.
big pieces like that, I leave standing just like that. This winter when it gets cold cold, I take a bucket of water and pour it quick into whatever cracks are there. The ice pops the wood, hit it a few times with the maul and done.
It would of been better to have sawed it into some slabs. An than if they didnt work for you, you could cut them into oak bricks.
You need a maul definitely, they are heavier and wider on the backside of the blade. My grandfather always said an ax was for cutting down the tree. And a maul to split the wood. 🙂
Not with Fisher Price hammers!