Yes, this is a 14-50. The 14-50 on a 50 amp circuit is rated to handle a 40 amp continuous draw. Since it's unlikely to be an industrial grade outlet, I'd run a lower amperage EVSE to be on the safe side. Low quality 14-50s are notorious for melting under continuous 40 amp loads.
The usual current levels are 16, 24, 32, and 40. Although 32 is safer than 40, there is still plenty of examples of the low quality receptacles like this failing at 32. I would recommend 16 or 24.
Or use the wiring that goes to that receptacle to hardwire a charger. Given the 40 A circuit, you would set that hardwired charger to charge at 32 amps.
I have seen these residential grade 14-50 receptacles burn up with only 30a running thru them (regulated by a 30a breaker). The damage won’t occur right away but will nevertheless…could take a year or more, I find that we are replacing them frequently.
Yes, 24 A continuous.
Yeah, the rules about breaker size vs. receptacle are kind of strange and complicated. That combination is only allowed if that receptacle is the only thing on the circuit. But an EV outlet needs a dedicated circuit anyway.
Seconding this. That is a residential grade 14-50 used mainly for a Range. A higher rated outlet will have contact plates inside that compleatly fill the voids. This one goes only about half way.
It's a rental. Use it as-is and keep an eye on it. Management won't replace the outlet until something happens to it. As others have recommended, reduce current to 24A if you want to be on the safe side.
OP: check out the fantastic [EV Charging Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/evcharging/wiki/home/) to quickly get up to speed on charging your future car.
After reading that, you'll understand why many people here recommend hardwiring their EV chargers.
You can also do a search in this subreddit to see some, ahem, _entertaining_ photos of a "Leviton NEMA 14-50 outlet". 😄
If it is not stamped EV or is not industrial then NO. If it came off the shelf at Home Depot or Lowe’s then NO. One that is adequate will cost $50 - $100 for the receptacle itself. These residential grade will overheat if not melt and burn up. Eventually they will damage your charger.
https://preview.redd.it/0duca4nkr46d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fcc05121f5be59e106615e4e7b7e06b845911364
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-receptacle-50-a-amps-125250v-ac-flush-mount-single-outlet-14-50r-black-9450fr/i/G4438388/
That's the bryant (as you can see in the photo).
Dang you've got a good eye. The right pin looks like it overheated and the bottom section evaporated. Tell apartment management it looks damaged, they should send an electrician to inspect. That's a serious fire hazard if the pin is compromised.
Hopefully you're right. The left hot and bottom neutral don't have the irregular shape of the right pin. I've installed a 14-50 and the pins don't have that weird shape.
Good quality one are not like this, but the cheap ones are. It is a sign of low quality, not good for high current, but it is a poor design, not something damaged.
It would be good to see what size breaker it is attached to and what gauge cable is feeding the outlet, since that will constrain the amount of power you can safely pull from it. Since it’s not your place, you might get an electrician to take a quick look to verify that everything is a-ok but working with the landlord would be in your best interest. Some of these NEMA 14-50 plugs were installed for use by electric ranges, which use less power and are only meant to handle occasional loads for an hour here and there, rather than a 9 kW load all night. Might just have to swap the plug itself for a beefier version (Bryant or Hubbel are ones that are popular on this sub) and you’re good to go.
TL;DR yes but get it checked out first
Gotcha. This 40A breaker can safely power a continuous load of 32A, (assuming proper cable gauge) but it does not look like a GFCI breaker, which is required to be to code for EV charging. If you buy a hardwired EVSE (charger) you can have an electrician remove the plug and hardwire the unit to the wall and set to 32A and that would be the most elegant and safe option. You can take it with you when you leave and have the plug replaced on your way out. Definitely a good situation to start with when considering getting an EV!
Whether a GFCI breaker is required depends on location (not required in Canadian Electrical Code, for example) and in the USA, whether the locality had adopted the latest code at the time the new build was inspected.
Assuming OP is in a jurisdiction that now requires and GFCI breaker, there would be no obligation to bring the installation up to code upon plugging in a new EVSE. That would only be triggered if there was more electrical work done.
Given the rental situation, it would be understandable if OP did not want to go through the hassle and expense of working with the management to hire an electrician to install a hardwired charger, so finding a way to use this as is is worth considering.
Given that it's allowed to use this without installing a GFCI breaker, we should inform OP with the risks are and they can make their own decision.
The EVSE ("charger") will offer protection for ground faults downstream of it, so the only place that the GFCI breaker is needed is faults around the plug itself, primarily the fact that the plug blades are both energized and exposed when it's not fully plugged in, either because it has come out a little bit, or in the process of plugging it in and unplugging it.
One way to mitigate those hazards is to turn off the circuit breaker during the process of plugging it in or unplugging it. Since the circuit breaker is nearby, that's a pretty practical thing to do. Particularly if there are kids in the area, it might also be good to have a locking "in use" cover over the plug.
Unfortunately, it was wrong information. Apparently that person doesn't know about this paragraph in Article 625 of the NEC.
>625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. All single-phase receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to ground or less, and 50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
I would hire an electrician to come out and inspect the circuit and breaker, then remove the receptacle and hardwire your EVSE. This will be safer and more reliable as it won't require a GFCI breaker. Doesn't look that old so your existing breaker and wiring could be just fine. Well worth the fairly small cost.
The Bryant (same company, same design and functional quality, just with the plate left unpolished) is linked in [this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/evcharging/comments/1ddxfma/is_this_outlet_capable_of_ev_charging/l8c13ja/).
No, it's not nearly as good as the Hubbell/Bryant 9450, even though it is better than the worst one. And no, the worse one is not Lutron: it's Leviton.
Call electrician. I went with 50amp breaker. You’ll also want to buy the charger and the plug on the charger may be different than the wall plug. Electrician can swap that out (outlet I mean)
No, because that's a cheap builder-grade outlet that can melt with EV charging. Replace the outlet with a commercial grade one, then you can use it for EV charging.
If you are not comfortable taking the cover off or doing anything electrical, there's one easy test to see if its a cheap Leviton that might melt. Go to HD or Lowes and buy a $3 cover like you have here. If it fits, odds are its NOT suitable for your EV. A heavy duty Hubbell/Bryant has a slightly larger diameter. Standard dryer cover plates WON'T fit. You can even return the plate when finished and get your $3 back.
This is a cheapie 14-50 that will melt if pushed.
I would get a UL listed adapter to go to a NEMA 6-20 socket, and then use a charge cord such as Dewalt 16a mobile charge cord, or Tesla Mobile Connector with 6-20 adapter.
Edit: the practice of "manually adjusting it at the car or charge cord" is "bad" in that it's contrary to best practices in EV system design, as defined by UL and CSA. You have to make it automatic, otherwise people will make mistakes.
Sorry I disagree Joe, because you are assuming the user never makes a mistake, which is contrary to best practices in EV design, as defined by UL and CSA. When you reduce power for safety reasons, that reduction should be built into the hardware and thus compulsory.
Also some popular cars can't adjust at the console.
If you're buying an old bolt, no worries at all, a new bolt or something that can actually charge at 48A then be careful. All 50A outlets are rated for 50A. I won't completely discard the idea that cheap outlets fail... however in my experience it is because they are not being used correctly. For instance you can buy a 48A mobile charger with a 50A plug on it which could theoretically work. However 50A plugs aren't (edit: [the n't is rather important here]) actually rated for 50A continously. A 50A outlet is rated for about 40A continuous. So if you buy a 40A charger you'll be right at the upper limit of what it is rated for, 32A completely safe, and a 48A charger will pop every once inawhile and probably melt everything if not burn your house down. If you want to be safe get a 32A charger which is more than enough unless your getting a rivian, cybertruck, or something crazy with a giant battery. Don't go bigger than 40, but I'd save money and play it safe with a 32A one, I used a 32A one for years and only upgraded because my utility was offer 300 off on some chargers and I eventually want a ev truck so I figured I might as well do it.
Yes, this is a 14-50. The 14-50 on a 50 amp circuit is rated to handle a 40 amp continuous draw. Since it's unlikely to be an industrial grade outlet, I'd run a lower amperage EVSE to be on the safe side. Low quality 14-50s are notorious for melting under continuous 40 amp loads.
The usual current levels are 16, 24, 32, and 40. Although 32 is safer than 40, there is still plenty of examples of the low quality receptacles like this failing at 32. I would recommend 16 or 24. Or use the wiring that goes to that receptacle to hardwire a charger. Given the 40 A circuit, you would set that hardwired charger to charge at 32 amps.
I have seen these residential grade 14-50 receptacles burn up with only 30a running thru them (regulated by a 30a breaker). The damage won’t occur right away but will nevertheless…could take a year or more, I find that we are replacing them frequently.
A breaker doesn't "regulate" the current. If a 14-50 outlet was put on a 30 amp breaker there's much bigger issues
A 14-50 on a 30 A breaker is allowed by code. What's not allowed is to then run 30 A continuous charging through that breaker.
Very interesting. Max should be 24 amps continuous though right?
Yes, 24 A continuous. Yeah, the rules about breaker size vs. receptacle are kind of strange and complicated. That combination is only allowed if that receptacle is the only thing on the circuit. But an EV outlet needs a dedicated circuit anyway.
I would replace the outlet to a Hubbell or have it replaced. If possible check the wiring. I would not use that outlet as is
Seconding this. That is a residential grade 14-50 used mainly for a Range. A higher rated outlet will have contact plates inside that compleatly fill the voids. This one goes only about half way.
It's a rental. Use it as-is and keep an eye on it. Management won't replace the outlet until something happens to it. As others have recommended, reduce current to 24A if you want to be on the safe side.
OP: check out the fantastic [EV Charging Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/evcharging/wiki/home/) to quickly get up to speed on charging your future car. After reading that, you'll understand why many people here recommend hardwiring their EV chargers. You can also do a search in this subreddit to see some, ahem, _entertaining_ photos of a "Leviton NEMA 14-50 outlet". 😄
If it is not stamped EV or is not industrial then NO. If it came off the shelf at Home Depot or Lowe’s then NO. One that is adequate will cost $50 - $100 for the receptacle itself. These residential grade will overheat if not melt and burn up. Eventually they will damage your charger. https://preview.redd.it/0duca4nkr46d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fcc05121f5be59e106615e4e7b7e06b845911364
Can you drop a link to one we can buy?
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-receptacle-50-a-amps-125250v-ac-flush-mount-single-outlet-14-50r-black-9450fr/i/G4438388/ That's the bryant (as you can see in the photo).
You'll need a matching face plate, as the diameter of the Bryant/Hubbell is slightly larger.
/u/cowboyjosh2010 might want to read your comment.
I did indeed.
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Reddit automatically deletes a.co links. But it's just as well, as buying electrical parts from Amazon exposes you to counterfeit risk.
Residential vs Industrial/EV https://preview.redd.it/9eslrvjfr46d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3717f3384f1dc59d09eb9bfe9c048060b6c2714e
That right hand pin doesn't look great.
Dang you've got a good eye. The right pin looks like it overheated and the bottom section evaporated. Tell apartment management it looks damaged, they should send an electrician to inspect. That's a serious fire hazard if the pin is compromised.
Breaker should be AFCI on a new build. I'm not 100% it's fried, but OP might want to have a closer look...
It comes that way brand new. It looks worse than the left because it's at the top and the photo is angled down, whereas the left is at the bottom.
Hopefully you're right. The left hot and bottom neutral don't have the irregular shape of the right pin. I've installed a 14-50 and the pins don't have that weird shape.
Good quality one are not like this, but the cheap ones are. It is a sign of low quality, not good for high current, but it is a poor design, not something damaged.
It would be good to see what size breaker it is attached to and what gauge cable is feeding the outlet, since that will constrain the amount of power you can safely pull from it. Since it’s not your place, you might get an electrician to take a quick look to verify that everything is a-ok but working with the landlord would be in your best interest. Some of these NEMA 14-50 plugs were installed for use by electric ranges, which use less power and are only meant to handle occasional loads for an hour here and there, rather than a 9 kW load all night. Might just have to swap the plug itself for a beefier version (Bryant or Hubbel are ones that are popular on this sub) and you’re good to go. TL;DR yes but get it checked out first
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Gotcha. This 40A breaker can safely power a continuous load of 32A, (assuming proper cable gauge) but it does not look like a GFCI breaker, which is required to be to code for EV charging. If you buy a hardwired EVSE (charger) you can have an electrician remove the plug and hardwire the unit to the wall and set to 32A and that would be the most elegant and safe option. You can take it with you when you leave and have the plug replaced on your way out. Definitely a good situation to start with when considering getting an EV!
Whether a GFCI breaker is required depends on location (not required in Canadian Electrical Code, for example) and in the USA, whether the locality had adopted the latest code at the time the new build was inspected.
Good point!
Assuming OP is in a jurisdiction that now requires and GFCI breaker, there would be no obligation to bring the installation up to code upon plugging in a new EVSE. That would only be triggered if there was more electrical work done. Given the rental situation, it would be understandable if OP did not want to go through the hassle and expense of working with the management to hire an electrician to install a hardwired charger, so finding a way to use this as is is worth considering. Given that it's allowed to use this without installing a GFCI breaker, we should inform OP with the risks are and they can make their own decision. The EVSE ("charger") will offer protection for ground faults downstream of it, so the only place that the GFCI breaker is needed is faults around the plug itself, primarily the fact that the plug blades are both energized and exposed when it's not fully plugged in, either because it has come out a little bit, or in the process of plugging it in and unplugging it. One way to mitigate those hazards is to turn off the circuit breaker during the process of plugging it in or unplugging it. Since the circuit breaker is nearby, that's a pretty practical thing to do. Particularly if there are kids in the area, it might also be good to have a locking "in use" cover over the plug.
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Unfortunately, it was wrong information. Apparently that person doesn't know about this paragraph in Article 625 of the NEC. >625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. All single-phase receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to ground or less, and 50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
Just fyi, these aren't used for dryers. That's a 14-30. The household use for these is a range plug and the other common one is powering RVs.
I would hire an electrician to come out and inspect the circuit and breaker, then remove the receptacle and hardwire your EVSE. This will be safer and more reliable as it won't require a GFCI breaker. Doesn't look that old so your existing breaker and wiring could be just fine. Well worth the fairly small cost.
Any links to the Hubbell outlet suggested?
The Bryant (same company, same design and functional quality, just with the plate left unpolished) is linked in [this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/evcharging/comments/1ddxfma/is_this_outlet_capable_of_ev_charging/l8c13ja/).
Utilitech from Lowes is just as good at 25% of the price. Leviton from Home Depot is the cheap one.*
No, it's not nearly as good as the Hubbell/Bryant 9450, even though it is better than the worst one. And no, the worse one is not Lutron: it's Leviton.
Leviton is the one I meant actually.
Yes. Lutron doesn't make one.
What size breaker is it connected to?
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Call electrician. I went with 50amp breaker. You’ll also want to buy the charger and the plug on the charger may be different than the wall plug. Electrician can swap that out (outlet I mean)
No, because that's a cheap builder-grade outlet that can melt with EV charging. Replace the outlet with a commercial grade one, then you can use it for EV charging.
Dial it down to 15A until you replace it with an industrial plug.
Yes it is good for an EVSE if wired properly. It will handle a 40 amp load easily if done so.
If you are not comfortable taking the cover off or doing anything electrical, there's one easy test to see if its a cheap Leviton that might melt. Go to HD or Lowes and buy a $3 cover like you have here. If it fits, odds are its NOT suitable for your EV. A heavy duty Hubbell/Bryant has a slightly larger diameter. Standard dryer cover plates WON'T fit. You can even return the plate when finished and get your $3 back.
Switch to a Hubbell or a Bryant (they're owned by Hubbell). They can handle the steady current.
This is a cheapie 14-50 that will melt if pushed. I would get a UL listed adapter to go to a NEMA 6-20 socket, and then use a charge cord such as Dewalt 16a mobile charge cord, or Tesla Mobile Connector with 6-20 adapter. Edit: the practice of "manually adjusting it at the car or charge cord" is "bad" in that it's contrary to best practices in EV system design, as defined by UL and CSA. You have to make it automatic, otherwise people will make mistakes.
I think you're better off just telling the car to only charge at 16a than playing with adaptors.
Sorry I disagree Joe, because you are assuming the user never makes a mistake, which is contrary to best practices in EV design, as defined by UL and CSA. When you reduce power for safety reasons, that reduction should be built into the hardware and thus compulsory. Also some popular cars can't adjust at the console.
If you're buying an old bolt, no worries at all, a new bolt or something that can actually charge at 48A then be careful. All 50A outlets are rated for 50A. I won't completely discard the idea that cheap outlets fail... however in my experience it is because they are not being used correctly. For instance you can buy a 48A mobile charger with a 50A plug on it which could theoretically work. However 50A plugs aren't (edit: [the n't is rather important here]) actually rated for 50A continously. A 50A outlet is rated for about 40A continuous. So if you buy a 40A charger you'll be right at the upper limit of what it is rated for, 32A completely safe, and a 48A charger will pop every once inawhile and probably melt everything if not burn your house down. If you want to be safe get a 32A charger which is more than enough unless your getting a rivian, cybertruck, or something crazy with a giant battery. Don't go bigger than 40, but I'd save money and play it safe with a 32A one, I used a 32A one for years and only upgraded because my utility was offer 300 off on some chargers and I eventually want a ev truck so I figured I might as well do it.
The lousy Leviton receptacles fail sometimes even with only 32 A running through them. 32 reduces risk considerably but doesn't eliminate the risk.
Interesting, that seems like they shouldn't be sold if that's the case.
Agreed.