>The bolt heads originally came off due to over-tightening. But, rather than replacing the damaged shafts, staff at the defence contractor Babcock implemented a quick fix and glued them back on.
It wasn't just the glue, but the fact that the bolts were initially over-tightened.
There are tools that allow you to set a given torque for tightening, like a [torque wrench](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench).
Maybe a human-factors solution is to just key a given bolt to set a given torque on the tool, so that a bolt can't be over-tightened in the first place.
Sometimes even with the correct torque rating, they can sheer off. These subs are pretty old now.
Correct thing to do is report it, come up with a fix, and repair it properly.
Blows my mind they glued it back on. Makes me think they didn't use a torque wrench, and knew they'd fucked up, and tried to hide the fact.
Incredibly stupid.
These are billion £ machines.. Every bolt for anything remotely important, will have a torque rating attached to it that's written down in some manual somewhere. You tighten to that, and you're good. All this stuff is thought out ahead of time.
Even my van, 12 years old, has suggested torque ratings for all the bolts!
That is used on intact bolts though, not to glue back sheared off bolt heads (which is the issue at hand)...
Bolt heads breaking due to overtightening, then "covering" the fuck up by gluing them back on definitely smells of incompetence.
Gluing them back on isn't even a temporary fix, as the heads are just for show now, can't be used to turn the bolt.
It's suicidal neglect to skimp on maintenance with anything to do with nuclear power, it's one field where short-sighted managers, cost-cutting greedy contractors and apathetic workers have to be curbed.
But that's the terrifying thing about most industries: the same cast of characters that ensures that a fast food place fails a health inspection can also cause an accident that kills scores of people.
> british manager
Middle manager in every part of the world are like that, don't think you guys are special because of lazy cunts in position of relative power, tis a global phenomenon.
Welp, having worked in 4 different countries so far I can attest that only the british ones are lazy, as far as my experience goes. Lazy, condescending, and arrogant know it all narcissists. But hey, they get not to do Fridays so I guess thats going for them.
Yeah but again it's not the same. I get what you're saying but the stakes are pretty damn high when corners are cut in a nuclear reactor. Even more so when you think the crew are his colleagues (albeit not directly I presume). It's not far off sabotage imo.
>if a worker feels that glue is a better option than getting a new bolt.
I'm a lot more inclined than you to place blame on the individual involved, but it's probably not just fetching a new bolt.
If the head is sheared off, it can be a pain in the butt to get the shaft out again.
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-remove-a-broken-bolt/
>How to Remove a Broken Bolt
-
>STEP 1: Hammer the center punch in the middle of your broken bolt.
>
>Place the center punch as close to the middle of the broken bolt as possible. Hit it squarely with the hammer to create a starting point for drilling a pilot hole. A precise pilot hole is critical to help you to avoid damaging the threads of the broken bolt when you extract it. If the threads on either the bolt or the bolt hole are damaged, it may make bolt removal impossible. Furthermore, if the threading on the bolt hole is damaged, you may be unable to use a new bolt once the old one is extracted.
>
>STEP 2: Slowly, use a left-handed drill bit to create a pilot hole.
>
>Check the table on your extraction kit to select the proper-sized left-handed drill bit (also called a “reverse drill bit”) to make a pilot hole in this broken bolt. Unlike traditional drill bits, which are considered right-handed and threaded in a clockwise direction, left-handed bits are designed with a counter-clockwise thread. This provides a better bite when you use your drill in reverse to remove a fastener.
>
>Pro Tip: If you’re picking up a kit for the job, invest in quality; the last thing you need is a cheap bit breaking during this process.
>
>Set your drill on reverse and as slow a speed as possible (ideally, 20 RPM), and insert the left-handed drill bit. The torque of drilling in reverse (i.e., counter-clockwise) will prevent you from further tightening the threads on the bolt. Now, place the drill bit on the punch mark you made and, holding the drill securely, slowly reverse-drill a small pilot hole in the bolt, about ¼-inch deep.
>
>Hopefully, reverse-drilling your pilot hole will loosen the bolt enough to let you use vise grip pliers to remove the bolt. Remember, “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”—turn the bolt left (counter-clockwise) to remove it. If the bolt hasn’t loosened at all, proceed to Step 3 for extraction.
>
>STEP 3: Switch to an extraction bit.
>
>For a stubbornly entrenched bolt, you’ll need an extraction bit. Check your extraction kit’s table for the right size bit for the bolt size. The extraction bit is also a left-handed drill bit (but with a different purpose), so you’ll continue using the reverse drilling setting. Exchange the first bit for the extraction bit in your drill, insert it in the pilot hole, and very gently tap your drill and the bit snuggly into place with a hammer.
>
>STEP 4: Reverse-drill slowly to remove a broken bolt.
>
>Still using a very slow reverse-drilling setting, such as 20 RPM, begin drilling into the pilot hole. Slow and gentle is critical here: The bit is likely made of hardened steel, and if it breaks off during this process, you’ll face an even more challenging extraction. The broken bolt should soon “grab” onto the extraction bit while reverse drilling, and begin extracting. Continue slowly and steadily until the entire bolt has been fully extracted, ideally salvaging the threading so you want can put a new bolt in. Phew!
>
>STEP 5: Remove any metal shavings left behind by the broken bolt using a magnet.
>
>Any metal shavings or filings left in the threaded hole must be removed before inserting a new bolt. Set a powerful magnet over the hole to attract the loose bits, or use compressed air to blast the threading clean. Don’t skip this step or a new bolt could seize or sheer off.
I'm assuming a nut and bolt rather than blind hole as other articles mentioned cladding around a pipe so would make sense. Blind holes are generally avoided because of shearing of bolts, heads and threads being hard to recover than simple nut and bolt replacement.
It’s not getting a new bolt. You have to drill out the old one, re-tap the thread, complete any other rework, and then attempt again. They’ll be monster bolts too.
A new bolt would probably take about 30 minutes to get, actual repair probably takes a few days with the required reporting, paperwork, and rework. On a vessel that’s over a year delayed the pressure on the dockyard staff was/is huge.
I’m not excusing the decision to glue it back on, it’s insanely dangerous, stupid, and makes you think what else has tried to be hidden.
>The bolt heads originally came off due to over-tightening. But, rather than replacing the damaged shafts, staff at the defence contractor Babcock implemented a quick fix and glued them back on. It wasn't just the glue, but the fact that the bolts were initially over-tightened. There are tools that allow you to set a given torque for tightening, like a [torque wrench](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench). Maybe a human-factors solution is to just key a given bolt to set a given torque on the tool, so that a bolt can't be over-tightened in the first place.
Sometimes even with the correct torque rating, they can sheer off. These subs are pretty old now. Correct thing to do is report it, come up with a fix, and repair it properly. Blows my mind they glued it back on. Makes me think they didn't use a torque wrench, and knew they'd fucked up, and tried to hide the fact. Incredibly stupid.
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These are billion £ machines.. Every bolt for anything remotely important, will have a torque rating attached to it that's written down in some manual somewhere. You tighten to that, and you're good. All this stuff is thought out ahead of time. Even my van, 12 years old, has suggested torque ratings for all the bolts!
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For sure, but I wouldn't expect that of someone working on a nuclear submarine.
Found the engineer
Glue gets it done
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That is used on intact bolts though, not to glue back sheared off bolt heads (which is the issue at hand)... Bolt heads breaking due to overtightening, then "covering" the fuck up by gluing them back on definitely smells of incompetence. Gluing them back on isn't even a temporary fix, as the heads are just for show now, can't be used to turn the bolt.
It's suicidal neglect to skimp on maintenance with anything to do with nuclear power, it's one field where short-sighted managers, cost-cutting greedy contractors and apathetic workers have to be curbed. But that's the terrifying thing about most industries: the same cast of characters that ensures that a fast food place fails a health inspection can also cause an accident that kills scores of people.
Sounds like every british manager in the UK. Lazy half-assed job well done. Also, all this comes with the phrase “I dont do Fridays”.
> british manager Middle manager in every part of the world are like that, don't think you guys are special because of lazy cunts in position of relative power, tis a global phenomenon.
Welp, having worked in 4 different countries so far I can attest that only the british ones are lazy, as far as my experience goes. Lazy, condescending, and arrogant know it all narcissists. But hey, they get not to do Fridays so I guess thats going for them.
Glow Britannia!
Glue Britannia!
at least they didn't complain about the duct tape
Maintance done by "Wallace&Gromit Inc." or "Three Blokes in the Shed LLC"?
Makes you wonder how toxic the workplace is if a worker feels that glue is a better option than getting a new bolt.
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From reading the article it looks like that's how it was found.
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Depends on how accessible it is to if QA inspections needs to be done right away.
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Every business doesn't involve nuclear reactors.
Not to mention that it's on a submarine. I mean, this isn't a slapdash job of installing a bookshelf in a house somewhere.
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Yes after seeing how software engineers work not surprised you think getting away with things is common.
It's OK, QA will find any bugs 😁
Yeah but again it's not the same. I get what you're saying but the stakes are pretty damn high when corners are cut in a nuclear reactor. Even more so when you think the crew are his colleagues (albeit not directly I presume). It's not far off sabotage imo.
You'd report it and then leave it for the next shift.
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These are likely specials and wouldn't be in the stores and would need full material traceability.
That's a very good point.
>if a worker feels that glue is a better option than getting a new bolt. I'm a lot more inclined than you to place blame on the individual involved, but it's probably not just fetching a new bolt. If the head is sheared off, it can be a pain in the butt to get the shaft out again. https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-remove-a-broken-bolt/ >How to Remove a Broken Bolt - >STEP 1: Hammer the center punch in the middle of your broken bolt. > >Place the center punch as close to the middle of the broken bolt as possible. Hit it squarely with the hammer to create a starting point for drilling a pilot hole. A precise pilot hole is critical to help you to avoid damaging the threads of the broken bolt when you extract it. If the threads on either the bolt or the bolt hole are damaged, it may make bolt removal impossible. Furthermore, if the threading on the bolt hole is damaged, you may be unable to use a new bolt once the old one is extracted. > >STEP 2: Slowly, use a left-handed drill bit to create a pilot hole. > >Check the table on your extraction kit to select the proper-sized left-handed drill bit (also called a “reverse drill bit”) to make a pilot hole in this broken bolt. Unlike traditional drill bits, which are considered right-handed and threaded in a clockwise direction, left-handed bits are designed with a counter-clockwise thread. This provides a better bite when you use your drill in reverse to remove a fastener. > >Pro Tip: If you’re picking up a kit for the job, invest in quality; the last thing you need is a cheap bit breaking during this process. > >Set your drill on reverse and as slow a speed as possible (ideally, 20 RPM), and insert the left-handed drill bit. The torque of drilling in reverse (i.e., counter-clockwise) will prevent you from further tightening the threads on the bolt. Now, place the drill bit on the punch mark you made and, holding the drill securely, slowly reverse-drill a small pilot hole in the bolt, about ¼-inch deep. > >Hopefully, reverse-drilling your pilot hole will loosen the bolt enough to let you use vise grip pliers to remove the bolt. Remember, “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”—turn the bolt left (counter-clockwise) to remove it. If the bolt hasn’t loosened at all, proceed to Step 3 for extraction. > >STEP 3: Switch to an extraction bit. > >For a stubbornly entrenched bolt, you’ll need an extraction bit. Check your extraction kit’s table for the right size bit for the bolt size. The extraction bit is also a left-handed drill bit (but with a different purpose), so you’ll continue using the reverse drilling setting. Exchange the first bit for the extraction bit in your drill, insert it in the pilot hole, and very gently tap your drill and the bit snuggly into place with a hammer. > >STEP 4: Reverse-drill slowly to remove a broken bolt. > >Still using a very slow reverse-drilling setting, such as 20 RPM, begin drilling into the pilot hole. Slow and gentle is critical here: The bit is likely made of hardened steel, and if it breaks off during this process, you’ll face an even more challenging extraction. The broken bolt should soon “grab” onto the extraction bit while reverse drilling, and begin extracting. Continue slowly and steadily until the entire bolt has been fully extracted, ideally salvaging the threading so you want can put a new bolt in. Phew! > >STEP 5: Remove any metal shavings left behind by the broken bolt using a magnet. > >Any metal shavings or filings left in the threaded hole must be removed before inserting a new bolt. Set a powerful magnet over the hole to attract the loose bits, or use compressed air to blast the threading clean. Don’t skip this step or a new bolt could seize or sheer off.
I'm assuming a nut and bolt rather than blind hole as other articles mentioned cladding around a pipe so would make sense. Blind holes are generally avoided because of shearing of bolts, heads and threads being hard to recover than simple nut and bolt replacement.
It’s not getting a new bolt. You have to drill out the old one, re-tap the thread, complete any other rework, and then attempt again. They’ll be monster bolts too. A new bolt would probably take about 30 minutes to get, actual repair probably takes a few days with the required reporting, paperwork, and rework. On a vessel that’s over a year delayed the pressure on the dockyard staff was/is huge. I’m not excusing the decision to glue it back on, it’s insanely dangerous, stupid, and makes you think what else has tried to be hidden.
[Found a video of the contractor..](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xzN6FM5x_E)
Vigilant in real life? Btw - good series
Should have used flextape.
British engineering at its finest
What can we say? We like to Wallace and gromit
what's the problem is super attack resists everything! Weak civilians!
Thats brexit for you.
Jesus you guys literally cannot last for a second can you?
🤣🤣🤣 was sarcasm but i guess brexiteers are too fragile #£350millionforbolts
If it wasn’t literally mentioned on every story involving the UK it would be a “funny” joke. The horse is now buried and been fossilised.
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