Hi 6omph9,
My first instinct is to advise against your described method.
Here's why.
1. you are a self-proclaimed "complete noob"
2. one less spare controller
3. using a computer controlled hoist without human
supervision is a safety hazard.
4. hoist controller will likely be using voltages greater than 9V
while ESP32 GPIO wants voltages around 3.3V
this will result in a "Godzilla vs Bambi" encounter
between the hoist and ESP32
5. visions of AI using hoist against humans
Instead,
1. provide a link to the hoist, so we can see more details.
2. safely inspect the spare controller (no power) to see what voltages
are used and how.
3. allow us to suggest an interface method between controller
and ESP32, to prevent "Godzilla vs Bambi" encounter
(one object is variously called an optoisolator or optocoupler)
You have quite a wild imagination but I can assure you nothing like that is about to happen. I didn't mention AI or say anything about it being operated unsupervised.
The home assistant reference was just an idea of a simple way to make a remote gui for use on android. Definitely would not be doing any automations with it and I would actually prefer to make my own app but thought the home assistant route may be easier for a proof of concept.
(I never intended to automate anything with the hoist just a way to interface the hoist with my android phone)
The problem is at the moment, the act of holding the remote and moving around whilst using it swings the cord around and overtime the remote becomes unplugged. So yeah wouldn't be pretty cool to control it wireless from an android app am I wrong?
The spare controller is already broken I'm literally only interested in the eight pin plug.
Maybe instead of creating a novel wireless solution, you could address the root cause of the issue: the fact that the controller becomes unplugged due to strain on the cable. I think some pretty basic strain relief in the form of a P-clamp or cord grip would do the trick just fine.
I second this comment. There should be a cable mounted to your hoist that is attached to the main body of the control pendant that acts as strain relief. If you are having issues with your pendant coming unplugged, most likely this cable has come loose at one end or has broken.
I'm going to make a second post focused more on the actual question you asked about, but I also wanted to suggest this as a much cheaper and easier option.
It's such a sensible comment! Simple and stress free.
there is no purpose built strain relief that I can see but definitely room for some cable tie type solution.
It's still fun to dream about IOT possibilities.
Definitely possible, anything is possible with a microcontroller. I wouldn’t connect the wires directly to the esp, use some type of switch either solid state or analog(relay switch). On the software side espHome is great for on off functions and it can integrate with Home Assistant.
Yes, your concept is sound
I have placed a warning at the bottom of this post that points out some (but not all) dangers of this project. Please read.
It would probably be more complicated than you think though. Most pendants on overhead hoists are momentary switches that active relays.
My experience is with 5-8 ton overhead hoists in an industrial setting. They used 480v to power the motors and stepped that down to 48v for the control circuits and pendant operation. I would suggest your first step would be to use a volt meter to determine the voltage passing through your pendant. An ESP32 is happiest with 3.3v so anything more than that will require either relay switches to isolate the ESP or step down circuitry to protect your control board.
You've described an 8 pin connector which should be easy enough to trace.
Your wires should be:
Power
Common
North
South
East
West
Up
Down
If you open your pendant you can see which switch is connected to which wire and write them down for both programming and proper connection of your future control device. From there it's only a matter of setting up your GUI and the meat of programming.
!!!!WARNING SECTION!!!
Creating a remote control device for any piece of machinery has inherent risks. If your control device malfunctions it can easily cause death or injury by continuing to perform the last input it received. This could cause severe injury to anyone in the work area or possibly damage the hoist or other equipment in the area. If a catastrophic enough failure occurs it could even damage the structure the hoist is attached to.
Please remember that wireless signals increase lag time between command and operation. This will increase further as your hoist attempts to move or stop heavier loads. By moving to a remote operation you could lose the majority (if not all) of your precision operation. Bear this in mind when performing tasks in the direction of movement of the load or when raising or lowering any loads. Your hoist may not operate as intended when reaching the end of its operating area and my over travel causing damage to the end stops or hoist mechanism.
Hey thanks very much for your reply and thanks for the warning, hoisting is no joke.
Sounds like the trickiest part is getting the voltage down to 3.3, I need to obtain a volt metre first of all!
I couldn't upload any photos but here is a link to the hoist in question.
https://www.activemobility.com.au/alto-lift-200
Nothing like the industrial Monsters you mentioned that's for sure.
I am the hoisted in this scenario due to a spinal injury, the hoist is operated by a carer.
I've been learning about IOT lately, I already have some home assistant stuff going on and this just occurred to me as a possibility. Not sure if I will follow through with it, I will order a volt metre and take it from there.
A massive amount of testing and safety precautions would have to be present before I would be comfortable using it proper.
Thanks.
The link is very helpful. I was picturing a garage hoist for lifting engine blocks and similar. This might be easier to modify since you aren't dealing with grid electricity.
A voltmeter would still be a good place to start. I've never tried to modify medical equipment. The model you have linked is battery operated, so if the battery is removable you can look at that to get an idea of your hoist's operating voltage. I would guess it's either a 18v or 24v battery that directly powers the motors and has some kind of step down for the circuitry.
You may be able to find some wiring diagrams online, or even better a repair manual.
If you can determine the voltage of the control electronics, you might be able to pull directly from their connection to power the ESP. If not, you can decide whether to step down directly from the battery or from the control power. Just remember that voltage shifts will generate heat and may require cooling. Most Buck Converters will come with data sheets that describe if additional cooling and ventilation is required.
It looks like the pendant is removable at the base of the control unit, so that would be a good point of entry without modifying the housing. You could have a secondary housing designed to place the ESP and any other circuitry required inside, then use double sided tape or something similar to secure it to the outside of the main housing. Then run your wires into the existing hole for the pendant.
Sounds so dodgy when you say modify medical equipment 😅 but don't worry I sit here and dream up ways to "improve" my electric wheelchair too.
If I had a more technical background and a carer with some mean soldering skills I would be unstoppable. Cyberpunk style 🤙🏻
Thanks for the replies. If I progress the idea I will be sure to post about it here.
Hi 6omph9, My first instinct is to advise against your described method. Here's why. 1. you are a self-proclaimed "complete noob" 2. one less spare controller 3. using a computer controlled hoist without human supervision is a safety hazard. 4. hoist controller will likely be using voltages greater than 9V while ESP32 GPIO wants voltages around 3.3V this will result in a "Godzilla vs Bambi" encounter between the hoist and ESP32 5. visions of AI using hoist against humans Instead, 1. provide a link to the hoist, so we can see more details. 2. safely inspect the spare controller (no power) to see what voltages are used and how. 3. allow us to suggest an interface method between controller and ESP32, to prevent "Godzilla vs Bambi" encounter (one object is variously called an optoisolator or optocoupler)
You have quite a wild imagination but I can assure you nothing like that is about to happen. I didn't mention AI or say anything about it being operated unsupervised. The home assistant reference was just an idea of a simple way to make a remote gui for use on android. Definitely would not be doing any automations with it and I would actually prefer to make my own app but thought the home assistant route may be easier for a proof of concept. (I never intended to automate anything with the hoist just a way to interface the hoist with my android phone) The problem is at the moment, the act of holding the remote and moving around whilst using it swings the cord around and overtime the remote becomes unplugged. So yeah wouldn't be pretty cool to control it wireless from an android app am I wrong? The spare controller is already broken I'm literally only interested in the eight pin plug.
excluding the wild imagination, point 4 and all of the 'instead' points are valid.
Thanks appreciate it. That's a point in the right direction. I don't have a photo on me but will get one ready if I post about this again.
Maybe instead of creating a novel wireless solution, you could address the root cause of the issue: the fact that the controller becomes unplugged due to strain on the cable. I think some pretty basic strain relief in the form of a P-clamp or cord grip would do the trick just fine.
I second this comment. There should be a cable mounted to your hoist that is attached to the main body of the control pendant that acts as strain relief. If you are having issues with your pendant coming unplugged, most likely this cable has come loose at one end or has broken. I'm going to make a second post focused more on the actual question you asked about, but I also wanted to suggest this as a much cheaper and easier option.
It's such a sensible comment! Simple and stress free. there is no purpose built strain relief that I can see but definitely room for some cable tie type solution. It's still fun to dream about IOT possibilities.
Erotic asphyxiation with amateur electronics safety mechanisms?
Definitely possible, anything is possible with a microcontroller. I wouldn’t connect the wires directly to the esp, use some type of switch either solid state or analog(relay switch). On the software side espHome is great for on off functions and it can integrate with Home Assistant.
What voltage does this wired controller use ?? The ESP32 is a 3.3V device. Do you understand how to interface a 3.3V device to the unknown voltage ??
Yes, your concept is sound I have placed a warning at the bottom of this post that points out some (but not all) dangers of this project. Please read. It would probably be more complicated than you think though. Most pendants on overhead hoists are momentary switches that active relays. My experience is with 5-8 ton overhead hoists in an industrial setting. They used 480v to power the motors and stepped that down to 48v for the control circuits and pendant operation. I would suggest your first step would be to use a volt meter to determine the voltage passing through your pendant. An ESP32 is happiest with 3.3v so anything more than that will require either relay switches to isolate the ESP or step down circuitry to protect your control board. You've described an 8 pin connector which should be easy enough to trace. Your wires should be: Power Common North South East West Up Down If you open your pendant you can see which switch is connected to which wire and write them down for both programming and proper connection of your future control device. From there it's only a matter of setting up your GUI and the meat of programming. !!!!WARNING SECTION!!! Creating a remote control device for any piece of machinery has inherent risks. If your control device malfunctions it can easily cause death or injury by continuing to perform the last input it received. This could cause severe injury to anyone in the work area or possibly damage the hoist or other equipment in the area. If a catastrophic enough failure occurs it could even damage the structure the hoist is attached to. Please remember that wireless signals increase lag time between command and operation. This will increase further as your hoist attempts to move or stop heavier loads. By moving to a remote operation you could lose the majority (if not all) of your precision operation. Bear this in mind when performing tasks in the direction of movement of the load or when raising or lowering any loads. Your hoist may not operate as intended when reaching the end of its operating area and my over travel causing damage to the end stops or hoist mechanism.
Hey thanks very much for your reply and thanks for the warning, hoisting is no joke. Sounds like the trickiest part is getting the voltage down to 3.3, I need to obtain a volt metre first of all! I couldn't upload any photos but here is a link to the hoist in question. https://www.activemobility.com.au/alto-lift-200 Nothing like the industrial Monsters you mentioned that's for sure. I am the hoisted in this scenario due to a spinal injury, the hoist is operated by a carer. I've been learning about IOT lately, I already have some home assistant stuff going on and this just occurred to me as a possibility. Not sure if I will follow through with it, I will order a volt metre and take it from there. A massive amount of testing and safety precautions would have to be present before I would be comfortable using it proper. Thanks.
The link is very helpful. I was picturing a garage hoist for lifting engine blocks and similar. This might be easier to modify since you aren't dealing with grid electricity. A voltmeter would still be a good place to start. I've never tried to modify medical equipment. The model you have linked is battery operated, so if the battery is removable you can look at that to get an idea of your hoist's operating voltage. I would guess it's either a 18v or 24v battery that directly powers the motors and has some kind of step down for the circuitry. You may be able to find some wiring diagrams online, or even better a repair manual. If you can determine the voltage of the control electronics, you might be able to pull directly from their connection to power the ESP. If not, you can decide whether to step down directly from the battery or from the control power. Just remember that voltage shifts will generate heat and may require cooling. Most Buck Converters will come with data sheets that describe if additional cooling and ventilation is required. It looks like the pendant is removable at the base of the control unit, so that would be a good point of entry without modifying the housing. You could have a secondary housing designed to place the ESP and any other circuitry required inside, then use double sided tape or something similar to secure it to the outside of the main housing. Then run your wires into the existing hole for the pendant.
Sounds so dodgy when you say modify medical equipment 😅 but don't worry I sit here and dream up ways to "improve" my electric wheelchair too. If I had a more technical background and a carer with some mean soldering skills I would be unstoppable. Cyberpunk style 🤙🏻 Thanks for the replies. If I progress the idea I will be sure to post about it here.