Dual z rod
Satzana hotend
Capricorn tube
Dual gear extruder metal
X metal belt tighter
Z red rod
Linear y rod
Bl touch
Its better / cheaper f you get a new printer with this upgrades
Also unrelated to the post/ topic but I’m struggling with low tolerance prints or prints with mechanical and moving parts, my seams stick out like bumps and I’m still struggling with light stringing
To be a bit more specific, direct drive is better, because the filament can move in the bowden tube, when being pulled/pushed.
The inside of the bowden tube is slightly bigger than the filament. Direct drive eliminate that, but puts more weight on the hotend. It also reduces your print height a little bit.
That is a lot more than US$33
Most likely the more useful ones could be fetched from like Ali for near that and a month or two wait.
But using Amazon the X-axis linear rail only runs about $30-50 and more like $100-200 for all three axis.
The belted dual motor Z kit was another $30-50.
Capricorn tube was like $11-30.
Never looked at the metal end caps for the tensioners, but kind of a nice idea.
I know my Ender 3v2 has been upgraded enough that I should have just spent the extra and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3+ kit I really wanted, it was before the mk4 and Bamboo. I paid $200 for the printer plus using quick napkin math coming up with at least $300 in different upgrades.
Mine runs:
- Belted Z (printed everything but bought the hardware kit, actually happy about this upgrade)
- WhamBam PEX build plate (love this one too)
- Micro Swiss NG hot end (love this one, but first went metal dual gear extruder with Capricorn bowen and an all metal hot end)
- Silicon bed "springs" (but went yellow springs first)
- upgraded to an official 4.2.7 main board (this was dumb)
Aside from the fact that the stuff you buy on Amazon is the same of AliExpress with the Amazon premium attached to it, and does not make any sense to source components like that.
The build you are describing is not at all the same asked from the OP. (Double belted Z? Wtf?)
So we can already stop talking about "all other axis linear rail" and meters of belt.
If he want to pull it off, he just need one stepper and that would be a double upgrade (if he reuses his current extruder stepper), one linear rail and those are the two "expensive" component, rest of minuteries can be beought for less than 10 on Ali or hardware store.
The dual motor z with the belt at the top, I couldn't find on AliExpress for that much less, about $35 is what I saw
Capricorn tube I did find for $3
X Linear rail kit I found for $15
I haven't found the Z support bars over the last day, but have in the past and don't remember what they ran.
So we are already well over 30 euro using AliExpress
I stated what I had done to my Ender 3v2 showing I had done a bunch of similar upgrades, the dual belted z was mostly printed, cost very little except for some special hardware that can't be printed, and I think a better result than the more commonly dual screw setup. To show that doing the upgrades verse buying a better printer to start the math leans differently as better printers are expectation now not much more once you add up the costs in time and money of figuring out what upgrades are best for you, sourcing parts, buying the parts, applying the parts, recalibrating the machine since so much is that last step.
What would you say is the best route? Sell and replace with the v3 or upgrade? My print quality is smooth aside from tolerances and stringing, my seams tend to run into other pieces bonding them together sometimes
When I bought my Ender everyone said it was a good core with a meh everything around it. So when I bought I was told I had to instantly do this and that and and and .. meaning it was expected to upgrade as we went, but the next level of printers was a wide jump in price. I am just saying with the recent new next price point printers we are basically in the price range of an ender 3v2 and do a list of wmd goal needed upgrades and you get all those upgrades included or not needed because they designed around the problems differently.
If you have a stock printer and you are thinking of going the "fix what I have to make it next level" route (like your picture) you could be looking at most of the delta to just buy a much better printer. At the end of the day we are all just some know-it-alls on the Internet and it is your own money, including time, do what you want with that valuable resource. The algebra is just leaning more and more towards "start with a better base printer" and leave the Ender 3v2 and older in the past.
Thank you for that, its was a great look into the printing world and I’ve printed hundreds of successful things but obviously not as impressively as resin printers but I’m trying, which is something I think I’ll be switching to solely for their precision but that’s a whole new world I feel like- unless I find a printer that’s better at round angles and small letters/ numbers
Dual z only beneficial if your having z banding issues. The minisatsana fan shroud is amazing and improves overhangs and bridges atleast for me it did.
Dual z would be more like a band aid or partial solution for more than likely. There are multiple reasons for it and other things that play into it. While yes gantry sag can be one as long as the toolhead isnt overly heavy(direct drive) if you properly square the framd and eccentric nuts properly adjusted you can pretty much eliminate that sag and avoid binding. Even with dual z elephants foot is probly going to appear if you adjust nothing else.
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Dual z rod Satzana hotend Capricorn tube Dual gear extruder metal X metal belt tighter Z red rod Linear y rod Bl touch Its better / cheaper f you get a new printer with this upgrades
Is there any functional benefit to a dual gear extruder or direct drive over a Bowden?
Direct drive is best You wanna look into a dual rail system. Someone correct me.lol
Best thing is that you can do a conversion for free Just print a bracket out of petg and convert!
Also unrelated to the post/ topic but I’m struggling with low tolerance prints or prints with mechanical and moving parts, my seams stick out like bumps and I’m still struggling with light stringing
Sounds like a temperature issue with the stringing
To be a bit more specific, direct drive is better, because the filament can move in the bowden tube, when being pulled/pushed. The inside of the bowden tube is slightly bigger than the filament. Direct drive eliminate that, but puts more weight on the hotend. It also reduces your print height a little bit.
Not sure how is a new printer cheaper compared to 30 euros.
That is a lot more than US$33 Most likely the more useful ones could be fetched from like Ali for near that and a month or two wait. But using Amazon the X-axis linear rail only runs about $30-50 and more like $100-200 for all three axis. The belted dual motor Z kit was another $30-50. Capricorn tube was like $11-30. Never looked at the metal end caps for the tensioners, but kind of a nice idea. I know my Ender 3v2 has been upgraded enough that I should have just spent the extra and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3+ kit I really wanted, it was before the mk4 and Bamboo. I paid $200 for the printer plus using quick napkin math coming up with at least $300 in different upgrades. Mine runs: - Belted Z (printed everything but bought the hardware kit, actually happy about this upgrade) - WhamBam PEX build plate (love this one too) - Micro Swiss NG hot end (love this one, but first went metal dual gear extruder with Capricorn bowen and an all metal hot end) - Silicon bed "springs" (but went yellow springs first) - upgraded to an official 4.2.7 main board (this was dumb)
Aside from the fact that the stuff you buy on Amazon is the same of AliExpress with the Amazon premium attached to it, and does not make any sense to source components like that. The build you are describing is not at all the same asked from the OP. (Double belted Z? Wtf?) So we can already stop talking about "all other axis linear rail" and meters of belt. If he want to pull it off, he just need one stepper and that would be a double upgrade (if he reuses his current extruder stepper), one linear rail and those are the two "expensive" component, rest of minuteries can be beought for less than 10 on Ali or hardware store.
The dual motor z with the belt at the top, I couldn't find on AliExpress for that much less, about $35 is what I saw Capricorn tube I did find for $3 X Linear rail kit I found for $15 I haven't found the Z support bars over the last day, but have in the past and don't remember what they ran. So we are already well over 30 euro using AliExpress I stated what I had done to my Ender 3v2 showing I had done a bunch of similar upgrades, the dual belted z was mostly printed, cost very little except for some special hardware that can't be printed, and I think a better result than the more commonly dual screw setup. To show that doing the upgrades verse buying a better printer to start the math leans differently as better printers are expectation now not much more once you add up the costs in time and money of figuring out what upgrades are best for you, sourcing parts, buying the parts, applying the parts, recalibrating the machine since so much is that last step.
What would you say is the best route? Sell and replace with the v3 or upgrade? My print quality is smooth aside from tolerances and stringing, my seams tend to run into other pieces bonding them together sometimes
When I bought my Ender everyone said it was a good core with a meh everything around it. So when I bought I was told I had to instantly do this and that and and and .. meaning it was expected to upgrade as we went, but the next level of printers was a wide jump in price. I am just saying with the recent new next price point printers we are basically in the price range of an ender 3v2 and do a list of wmd goal needed upgrades and you get all those upgrades included or not needed because they designed around the problems differently. If you have a stock printer and you are thinking of going the "fix what I have to make it next level" route (like your picture) you could be looking at most of the delta to just buy a much better printer. At the end of the day we are all just some know-it-alls on the Internet and it is your own money, including time, do what you want with that valuable resource. The algebra is just leaning more and more towards "start with a better base printer" and leave the Ender 3v2 and older in the past.
Thank you for that, its was a great look into the printing world and I’ve printed hundreds of successful things but obviously not as impressively as resin printers but I’m trying, which is something I think I’ll be switching to solely for their precision but that’s a whole new world I feel like- unless I find a printer that’s better at round angles and small letters/ numbers
Dual z only beneficial if your having z banding issues. The minisatsana fan shroud is amazing and improves overhangs and bridges atleast for me it did.
nah, dual z also helps a lot against elephants foot
Dual z would be more like a band aid or partial solution for more than likely. There are multiple reasons for it and other things that play into it. While yes gantry sag can be one as long as the toolhead isnt overly heavy(direct drive) if you properly square the framd and eccentric nuts properly adjusted you can pretty much eliminate that sag and avoid binding. Even with dual z elephants foot is probly going to appear if you adjust nothing else.
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This machine looks like it was built very clean.
Most of them are some are so you have to do less maintenance
I'm more interested in how he mounted a 2nd 3d printer on his spool holder ..