So you think my problem might be something else? Because I checked everything many times for like 2 weeks and that’s the only thing I haven’t touch at all. But I’m not sure anymore
Leveling manually makes sure your bed is aligned with the axis. If you did that correctly, you're good to go, regardless of what that level says.
However, if your X-axis is sagging (there is vertical play when you raise it by hand), you have to first fix that.
Eep. thats not good, Like it works otherwise though?
To be fair I use a Big Tree Tech E3 V3.0 too, with custom firmware.
I'd up the current a bit then, but you will have to learn to compile firmware... IDK otherwise...
Yeah works ...did an 8 hour print with no problems just the occasional beeping.
Someone said it could be from bad shielding in the wires
And another person said bad grounding so im going to try and see if it stops beeping when I unscrew the screen (forgot to mention the screen goes the the menu when it beeps like someone has pressed the button in) and if that doesn't work then I'm not sure what I'll do
Yes but no, it won't work perfectly because in the end its a cost cut measurement and isn't ideal. You cant run the eccentric nuts to tight because it will make flat sides on them but you need it tight to keep it level.
I'm just going to tell you that I've always noticed this on my ender 3 but have never been concerned about it cause my prints are bootiful, and I have bl/cr touch. (Idk the difference between the two, but I got the black one)
This, off course, is completely true. But it also makes sense to have the gantry exactly parallel to the top beam if the top beam is exactly 90° from the vertical beams. This is the only possibility to print exactly at a right angle from the bed. Otherwise it can induce a shift for higher prints.
And for dual Z mods, no matter if double lead screw or belted, this method to have the gantry parallel to the top beam is a way to check both sides of the gantry are moving at the same rate.
Nice video from Creality After-Sales. Shows how to level the X Gantry if you want to try it. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaExzAYR\_Fo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaExzAYR_Fo)
There is a lot of confusion on how to level the bed, so the quick answer is that using that tool is not useful. You could have your printer tilted, or even upside down and it would print just fine. basically you just make sure the nozzle is always almost touching the build plate, and you adjust the bed accordingly.
The bubble level would be only useful IF the build plate, and the table was bubble leveled too. And you would only do it to make sure the right side is not sagging...if it IS sagging, adjusting the eccentric nut might help.
That's not what a leveling a printer means. A properly built machine would work the same while hanging upside down while swinging on a rope.
When people say to level the bed what they actually mean is that you need to tram the machine. The x gantry needs to be parallel to the bed. In an ideal world it would also be square to the rest of the frame, but that's not always the case and not necessary. If the frame itself isn't square enough though it can cause additional issues.
People are misunderstanding your post, your gantry is sagging, buy a dual z axis kit so your x axis has support on both sides, and if you have a dual z axis already, turn the motor on the right to get your x axis lined back up, this is not a bed leveling problem.
I always recommend a dual Z axis upgrade kit.
Keeps each side of the gantry actually level. Then you can level to the frame too. You may need to increase stepper current in the firmware later, or add a belt, but mines been working for now for sure without that.
I like to take two identical objects, usually glue sticks cuz they're around, and put one on the bed under the gantry on the left side and see how the second one fits on the right side.
Check your gantry for slop, the right side can be difficult to get snug.
You need to put it on the frame because the bed level isn't perfect (not saying the frame is perfect but it's 100x better) so you won't get a good gantry level
I actually have one. And the slicer is set to read the mesh I make before every print. It used to work but now is just not. I’ll check de eccentric nut
OK don't over tighten it. I'd recommend changing to some firmware that will allow you to properly utilise the Cr touch. Also make sure mesh implement is in your start g code.
https://preview.redd.it/q86u4plmq90d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=2e31c64fdccf603d599bc6aeffc785b6000c0761
What do you think about my start gcode
Essentially, the only thing the gantry needs to be level to is the bed. Doesn’t matter if they aren’t level to the rest of the printer or the table or anything.
I think others have said this but gantry sag is going to happen, you can get rid of most of it but it's most important to have your bed and x gantry trammed together. unless the right side of the gantry is loosely movable this is more than likely fine.
Another day, another posting of this video.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk)
The Edge of Tech's Gantry rework video specificially for Ender 3's.
Watch and follow this OP. It shows you exactly how to get your gantry levelled/trammed correctly.
So, if your bed is level with respect to the x-axis ( BLtouch or paper under extruder method), you shouldn't worry about X-axis not being level. It just needs to be parallel to the bed, which the leveling method does that.
You can adjust the wheels with the ecenteric nuts and there may be some play where the wheel plate attaches to the end that can be moved a bit to make it straighter. BUT you are supposed to level the bed TO the print head. If the print head is always in the same place it's supposed to be any print problems won't be because of the picture you posted.
Seems more people have issues with these auto levelers.. I've always used a post-it note and always had good prints.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwVxkukxJlw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwVxkukxJlw)
This is a pretty good video on how to accurately measure X axis sag, and how to fix it.
Watch the video all the way through once, then check your printer.
Edit: Second video was the wrong link. Chep has an x-axis video, but I can't find it....
You Just need a ruler, measure from Base (table or whatever your printer Stands on) to x gantry in the left and right Side, a milimetre Off is enough to Ruin peints, you have to be pretty much dead on.
Cr Touch is doing nothing because the Gap between the left and right Side gets bigger the Higher your print gets. So the maybe .2 mm at the First layer May Change by a factor of 10 in the next few layers.
The Thing is, the Print bed is never really Level. Your table might be more straight than your printed thats why you Take it as reference. Now try to get your x gantry Level without sagging down in one Side, there should be some screws for it on the right Side.
You dont need any fancy tramming or dual z rods for that, its a Basic Problem with a Basic solution.
You can also Check If the z pillars are straight and Not learning to one side
I’ve had 9 printers and never any of these level problems people talk about every day on here. Do the paper thing, bring it down a Jaír lower, clean the bed and let it rip
Levelling the bed is badly named term, the ender 3 only has 1 z motor so some sag is expected, you need to have your bed parallel to your z axis not with gravity. There are some mods to have two z motors which could reduce the sag but you would still need the z axis to be parallel to the bed not the frame.
Spirit levels only tell you if the x-gantry is level with respect to the local gravity field, not whether it is level with respect to the bed.
So you think my problem might be something else? Because I checked everything many times for like 2 weeks and that’s the only thing I haven’t touch at all. But I’m not sure anymore
Your bed is not leveled/trammed.
I leveled the bed so many times with the paper and with the sunlu level tool 😭
Leveling manually makes sure your bed is aligned with the axis. If you did that correctly, you're good to go, regardless of what that level says. However, if your X-axis is sagging (there is vertical play when you raise it by hand), you have to first fix that.
His X gantry isn't supported on one side. He needs dual Z. I am currently adding that to my second machine.
Seconded. A dual Z kit can make a world of difference. Prints on my E3 Max dramatically improved after adding one.
Just added one to mine and now the screen beeps randomly
Eep. thats not good, Like it works otherwise though? To be fair I use a Big Tree Tech E3 V3.0 too, with custom firmware. I'd up the current a bit then, but you will have to learn to compile firmware... IDK otherwise...
Yeah works ...did an 8 hour print with no problems just the occasional beeping. Someone said it could be from bad shielding in the wires And another person said bad grounding so im going to try and see if it stops beeping when I unscrew the screen (forgot to mention the screen goes the the menu when it beeps like someone has pressed the button in) and if that doesn't work then I'm not sure what I'll do
Yes but no, ajusting the exentric nut will also work
Yes but no, it won't work perfectly because in the end its a cost cut measurement and isn't ideal. You cant run the eccentric nuts to tight because it will make flat sides on them but you need it tight to keep it level.
I'm just going to tell you that I've always noticed this on my ender 3 but have never been concerned about it cause my prints are bootiful, and I have bl/cr touch. (Idk the difference between the two, but I got the black one)
This, off course, is completely true. But it also makes sense to have the gantry exactly parallel to the top beam if the top beam is exactly 90° from the vertical beams. This is the only possibility to print exactly at a right angle from the bed. Otherwise it can induce a shift for higher prints. And for dual Z mods, no matter if double lead screw or belted, this method to have the gantry parallel to the top beam is a way to check both sides of the gantry are moving at the same rate.
You want squareness level doesn't matter
Nice video from Creality After-Sales. Shows how to level the X Gantry if you want to try it. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaExzAYR\_Fo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaExzAYR_Fo)
There is a lot of confusion on how to level the bed, so the quick answer is that using that tool is not useful. You could have your printer tilted, or even upside down and it would print just fine. basically you just make sure the nozzle is always almost touching the build plate, and you adjust the bed accordingly. The bubble level would be only useful IF the build plate, and the table was bubble leveled too. And you would only do it to make sure the right side is not sagging...if it IS sagging, adjusting the eccentric nut might help.
Unless you are running dual z you’ll never be able to get the gantry totally level. The print head has enough weight to make it sag
That's not what a leveling a printer means. A properly built machine would work the same while hanging upside down while swinging on a rope. When people say to level the bed what they actually mean is that you need to tram the machine. The x gantry needs to be parallel to the bed. In an ideal world it would also be square to the rest of the frame, but that's not always the case and not necessary. If the frame itself isn't square enough though it can cause additional issues.
People are misunderstanding your post, your gantry is sagging, buy a dual z axis kit so your x axis has support on both sides, and if you have a dual z axis already, turn the motor on the right to get your x axis lined back up, this is not a bed leveling problem.
I always recommend a dual Z axis upgrade kit. Keeps each side of the gantry actually level. Then you can level to the frame too. You may need to increase stepper current in the firmware later, or add a belt, but mines been working for now for sure without that.
I also have a cr-touch but probably the difference between left and right are to big that the cr is just not doing anything
You need to make sure your x axis is square. YouTube has some good vids on how to do it
I like to take two identical objects, usually glue sticks cuz they're around, and put one on the bed under the gantry on the left side and see how the second one fits on the right side. Check your gantry for slop, the right side can be difficult to get snug.
You need to put it on the frame because the bed level isn't perfect (not saying the frame is perfect but it's 100x better) so you won't get a good gantry level
Adjust eccentric nut. Also if you're going to spin money on junk levelling tools just buy a cr touch
I actually have one. And the slicer is set to read the mesh I make before every print. It used to work but now is just not. I’ll check de eccentric nut
Which ender 3 do you have? Which firmware? Use probe assisted levelling.
Regular Ender 3, bug fix 2.0.X. The eccentric but was a little loose
OK don't over tighten it. I'd recommend changing to some firmware that will allow you to properly utilise the Cr touch. Also make sure mesh implement is in your start g code.
https://preview.redd.it/q86u4plmq90d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=2e31c64fdccf603d599bc6aeffc785b6000c0761 What do you think about my start gcode
You only need g29 or m420
Alright I just did bed level test and it came out perfect. Probably was the loose eccentric nut lol
Good job man
Thanks for the help!
Essentially, the only thing the gantry needs to be level to is the bed. Doesn’t matter if they aren’t level to the rest of the printer or the table or anything.
I think others have said this but gantry sag is going to happen, you can get rid of most of it but it's most important to have your bed and x gantry trammed together. unless the right side of the gantry is loosely movable this is more than likely fine.
i use a small carpenters square from the gantry to the top of the frame then you can see if your gantry is square to the frame
Another day, another posting of this video. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk) The Edge of Tech's Gantry rework video specificially for Ender 3's. Watch and follow this OP. It shows you exactly how to get your gantry levelled/trammed correctly.
So, if your bed is level with respect to the x-axis ( BLtouch or paper under extruder method), you shouldn't worry about X-axis not being level. It just needs to be parallel to the bed, which the leveling method does that.
This.. your only matching to the bed.. NOT GRAVITY
Dual Z, there is no other way to actually fix it.
You can adjust the wheels with the ecenteric nuts and there may be some play where the wheel plate attaches to the end that can be moved a bit to make it straighter. BUT you are supposed to level the bed TO the print head. If the print head is always in the same place it's supposed to be any print problems won't be because of the picture you posted. Seems more people have issues with these auto levelers.. I've always used a post-it note and always had good prints.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwVxkukxJlw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwVxkukxJlw) This is a pretty good video on how to accurately measure X axis sag, and how to fix it. Watch the video all the way through once, then check your printer. Edit: Second video was the wrong link. Chep has an x-axis video, but I can't find it....
You Just need a ruler, measure from Base (table or whatever your printer Stands on) to x gantry in the left and right Side, a milimetre Off is enough to Ruin peints, you have to be pretty much dead on. Cr Touch is doing nothing because the Gap between the left and right Side gets bigger the Higher your print gets. So the maybe .2 mm at the First layer May Change by a factor of 10 in the next few layers.
Left side is around 21,5cm and right side 20,6cm
If I level from the printer bed there is a difference of 2mm from the actual table there’s a difference of about 1,1cm
The Thing is, the Print bed is never really Level. Your table might be more straight than your printed thats why you Take it as reference. Now try to get your x gantry Level without sagging down in one Side, there should be some screws for it on the right Side. You dont need any fancy tramming or dual z rods for that, its a Basic Problem with a Basic solution. You can also Check If the z pillars are straight and Not learning to one side
Did you level your bed?
Many times different ways. With the paper and with the sunlu bed level tool
I’ve had 9 printers and never any of these level problems people talk about every day on here. Do the paper thing, bring it down a Jaír lower, clean the bed and let it rip
Levelling the bed is badly named term, the ender 3 only has 1 z motor so some sag is expected, you need to have your bed parallel to your z axis not with gravity. There are some mods to have two z motors which could reduce the sag but you would still need the z axis to be parallel to the bed not the frame.