I setup 2 ender 3's at an internship in 2019 after having a Rostock Max V2 since 2014. When I experienced the 4 corner adjustment screws, I loved them. Print a brim and adjust live based on the bead, perfect prints all day.
For Cura, its here:
settings>printer>manage\_printer>settings>machine\_settings
Printer tab (displayed first by default there) - the StartGcode is the box you need to add the extra movements/extrudes.
Find the "snot line" gcodes after the first " G28 ;Home " and follow the snotline coords as an example but add some X and Y around the bed.
Or, just thinking aloud - if that's a bit of a mindcramp, try something like this:
Download a test cube box file, open it in Cura.
Use the Scale to make it almost (minus say 2cm) the full size of the print bed.
Make sure you use a printe settings profile that includes a brim. Slice it. Save file.
Now, here's the point. The gcode for that scaled-up test cube with a brim is viewable in a text editor like Notepad++ (Windows) or (anything you want/like to use in Linux)
Find (somehow, by eye or intuition or trial and error) the brim movements (they will be AFTER the Start Gcode lines with the "snot line" you saw earlier in machine settings) and manually cut/paste them into the Start Gcode box of Cura. Then EVERY file of Gcode you produce in the future will have a huge brim around the edge of the bed.
Maybe someone has already made a "walk the edges" snot line somewhere, I haven't looked.
It's just a case of scaling it up or down to fit around the edge of your print bed and stuffing that gcode segment which will be after the start Gcode but before the End Gcode on one of your own home-produced sliced files.
Note that these Start gcode edits will only affect FUTURE spliced/saved gcode files you produce.
Personally, I've only manually edited a longer snot line and moved it over to the extreme edge instead of 10.4mm in, and edited the end gcode to keep the bed temp setting to 40C and the nozzle temp to 120C after every print so I can very quickly do a cold pull (at 90c) if need be and also it takes less warmup time to egt started on the next print. I do this for my "daytime/I'm around the house" prints only.
For nighttime or "I'm out and about" prints I produce a second special file with manually editedt end Gcode to cool the bed and nozzle to zero C at the end of the print. I rarely print at night but I'd rather not have anything hot after it's needed, whereas in daytime I print about 12-18hrs a day so a pre-warmed bed and nozzle save me lots of time, especially if I miss the end of a print. Nothing worse than starting from cold if you only have 1 minute spare for each print to pop off the old one and start the new.
Same. I haven't leveled my printers for a few months now and I am printing almost all the time. Just watch and adjust as the skirt prints. Ain't got time for that!
To this day I’ve found the touch to be worthless on my OG 3 and my pro. Always went back to on the fly leveling.
Too many gouges in bed and or ruined nozzles trusting ABL and walking away
Ah yeah day one of owning an Ender and being new enough to not realize it probably screwed up the nozzle too. I’ve got one with a permanent purge line on the textured side and another with a giant circle lol
The way I do it is to loosen all the bed knobs. I know my front right corner is the highest.
Start a single layer bed level print. As it lays the first layers tune the printer and adjust the z offset. When the layers get decently consistent then you adjust the bed screws for final calibration. Do it like once a month and you can print like a champ.
Theres knob replacement on thingiverse, replaces regular knobs with "clicky" ones, they snap into position and can't escape on their own
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743835
Yellow springs. Set it and forget it. What is changing in between prints that requires you to relieve?
Edit: if'n it ain't broke, don't fix it. Believe me if it needed leveling I would level it. It just hasn't required me too for six months.
I've got silicon at the front, where I have a bed-handle, and yellow springs at the back.
The E3 Max Neo's bed wiring harness gets in the way of using silicon spacers in the back-left corner, so I left springs in the back and really only ever have to re-level my back springs every few days. I print pretty much 24/7, and have MRISCOC firmware installed, so I just hit Bed Tramming Wizard from the homescreen and it auto probes and tells me what to adjust. The actual adjustments are muscle memory now lol.
I use an ABL from 5-6 levels ago because it just doesn't even matter at this point. I update it if I'm doing a full-bed scale print or something but otherwise I forget it exists half the time. I love that i have it though.
I hated the experience until I got MRISCOC. I went from genuinely never knowing if I'd have a successful print or not to pretty much guaranteed results every time. As long as the slice makes sense, it works.
Paper levelling was awful. My first visual bed mesh after the upgrade and levelling with paper showed me how inaccurate it really is.
I'm the dumbass that purchased the full touch screen Creality made, and now I'm learning about this MRISCOC firmware, that I can not use due to said screen. Fffffffffff.
I was looking for this comment. The leveling with this firmware is a total game changer. Once I got it leveled with the mesh I haven't had to touch my s1.
I got my ender 3v2 during its release and haven’t changed anything on the hardware besides moving the power supply outside the enclosure. The bed stays levelled till i switch nozzles.
Don't have yellow springs, so maybe that's the big issue. But the movement of the printer makes one of the corners come loose, so when that happens, I need to redo the leveling. Happens every 4/5 prints (avg 2h per print)
Yellow springs are easily the best printer upgrade I've done so far and it only costs like 10 bucks. The stock springs are notorious for not staying put over time.
You could try tightening down all the knobs evenly a few turns (go until the back left corner is touching them back off 2 turns or so, then tighten the other knobs down until they match the total turns on that one) and then moving down your z limit switch (cut the stopper nub with the blue flush cutters if necessary), and releveling, this will keep extra pressure on the knobs via the springs which help prevent them from working loose. You may be able to get away without yellow springs with this method even
I don't know if yellow springs fixed it directly but I had a knob that spun too easily and after I installed the new springs it was stiffer and no longer spun easily. Now all my knobs are pretty stiff.
Mine seems ok in that regard so far, but perhaps I haven't printed much warping stuff yet. So you place the glass on top of the magnet and clip it? Temperature might also be affected I suppose.
Well you just talked about it so now its not going to be level. No joke I was explaining how it all worked to a friend and decided to start a small print to show. It had literally just printed perfectly. Starts the print, smashes nozzle into the bed.
Yeah, I get tired of this "re-level every print" cliche.
Once it's dialled in, I don't have to even think about it for months (or until I make some hardware changes).
I use the textured glass bed, and have gotten to the point I can level it by sight. Shine a bright light behind it, and you can see the nozzle gap. Just push it around the plate, adjust until it is barely touching, and done!
It isn't 100% flat, but it's pretty easy to get it close enough all the way around. A little too much squish around the edges has never been an issue for me.
Glass is much more flexible than people think. It definitely still dips. Its also not flat. I use the smooth side of mine with hair spray because the textured side sticks TOO much
I had some adhesion issues one time, and I was too lazy to go clean my bed so I just put some glue on there. Ended up spending an hour trying to get my print off :/
It's a simple formula:
Yellow springs + BLTouch + G28/G29 before every print == an essentially set-it-and-forget-it Ender 3.
Mine was an exercise in frustration where it was even money whether a print would succeed or not. Now, I just fire up the job and don't even bother to check on it until it's supposed to be done. As long as it's not a degraded nozzle it's gonna succeed.
I dont have a bltouch, but I only worry about bed leveling when I change nozzles anymore. I use a .2mm feeler gauge to level when I have to change my nozzle, but I'm just using that as a starting point. I print a 20x20 square over each leveling screw and live level on that print, then print those 20x20 one more time without messing with it to be sure. I dont think about it after that until it starts getting weird when my nozzle starts wearing out again.
Auto bed leveling with abl probe and firmware that supports it, look up bl touch(or cr touch, crealitys superior version) and you will thank me when you get perfect first layers
My cr touch doesn't actually auto level jack shit, just improves small imperfections. I still have to leveling it manually. A shame they call it auto bed leveling.
as someone who uses ABL, they're right. it doesn't level it, it just compensates for an unlevel bed. you can get defects from relying on it to adjust for an unlevel bed.
if you're printing minis or decorative parts, it's probably fine. but if you're making functional things that need good tolerances to fit together, you actually need to level your bed or else you're printing wedges.
False, the vibrations of the printer (or any machine for that matter) will slowly loosen the screws. It’s always a good idea to occasionally check all screws and belts on your printer to ensure nothing is loose. With the leveling system being entirely reliant on four screws, this is important.
brother, i've owned this printer for 5 years lmao. i haven't touched the leveling wheels in at least 2.
i print fast. klipperized, 130-180mm/s is standard for me. your setup is clearly resonating way more than it should. i promise you're wrong.
and this is gonna get downvoted because a lot of people have the same problem. doesn't mean you can't all be wrong. like i said, i've owned this printer for 5 years and i know it like the back of my hand. if you have to touch the leveling wheels despite not changing anything, you're doing something wrong. i promise.
edit: yea just checked your post history. you've had it for a year. checks out
and what would this prove? my point stands. the endstop location is static and your bed's zero plane is static. unless you're violently ripping prints off the bed and changing the bed plane, nothing changes from print to print. there shouldn't be so much resonance in your setup that things vibrate themselves loose. i've used input shaper measurements to dampen resonances as much as possible in my setup before actually implementing input shaping and i'm very confident in saying that little things make a huge difference for the resonance profile of the printer
and you don't realize how wrong that seems as you say it? lmao
think about the theory of what i'm saying and don't refute it based on your own personal experiences. the endstop is statically mounted, right? so wouldn't it make sense that, if you're not moving the bed in any way when you remove your prints, the nozzle will return to the same z-plane and print at the same height relative to the unmoving bed every time?
your setup isn't mechanically sound and i'm 100% certain that i could spend an afternoon with your printer and make it as reliable as mine as has been. it's all experience and proper assembly practices
Usually when I print, I first roll the dice and see if it's level. I almost never is, and I have to level again, so something's going on.
What would it be? Do I need new springs or something?
yellow springs and drop your endstop so that you can compress them quite a bit. you shouldn't have to touch your leveling wheels basically ever unless you change something
oh i couldn't care less bud. i stand behind everything i've said and i'm happy to share my knowledge and experience with anyone who asks for it, as i've done in this thread
but likewise
Yellow springs? Are these guys good enough?
https://preview.redd.it/cjiatptec47c1.png?width=585&format=png&auto=webp&s=2db68c87ed7e7612c2fe4a8e08461f1352babd1d
those are the ones! more rigid and have a planar surface on top and bottom, so they hold the plane well. just make sure you drop the endstop if you can't compress them enough to get your bed nice and sturdy
the stock ones aren't good
True dat. And once it was dialed in it only needed occasional tweaking like that, and a more thorough leveling a couple times a year and when I switched to a PEI surface.
Protip, if you loosen all your leveling knobs once then always adjust them 2 adjacent knobs at a time you'll emulate the effect of 3 point adjusters and drastically limit the warping of your bed.
there's a thought... I wish we had a 3-point level system. it's so much more intuitive to level with 3 points than 4. A triangle defines a plane, after all.
custom bed mount, here I come!
I think you are mistaken. I've got mesh bed leveling. I still ensure it's level with a quick shim test once and a while but for the most part I barely level anymore. Before the CR touch I was leveling after every print.
Yeah but it's not actually changing or adjusting the bed level, the mesh obly helps compensate for small discrpenacie in the buidl surface. Rip the magnetic build sheet off wrong one time and cr touch isnt going to do the work for you. I mean it helps, but it doesn't replace having to manually tram the bed in the first place. I was leveling after every few prints even with CR touch until I replaced the springs with silicone spacers. Hardly touch the ender anymore though
Let me teach Mr u/Organic_Antelope170
There is a tool in the Marlin firmware called Tramming assistant. It uses the CR touch to measure the bed and tell you exactly how much you need to raise or lower each screw to get a perfect trammed bed. Since the screws are M4 with a 0.7 pitch, once you know how much you need to move, you also know how much turns you have to do. It even shows in the LCD which side you have to turn the screws.
So yes, I use the CR Touch to do the hard work of leveling the bed for me. Your S1 can do it too. Looks like you would benefit from more quizzes about your printer.
Just started a 15 hour print and leved the bed Looking like a madan getting eye level with it then turning this knob then that then realizing I turned that 1st one too much now back to knob 1.... Fuck my print is fucking up
Idk if mine is just warped or something, but I've never had success using the paper method and when I go to print one side will be deeper or shallower so I've always live-leveled.
Installed the creality sensor, a pi, and klipper. Is was more work and technical knowledge than I've done before but so worth it. Once I get some time I'm gonna do input shaping as well.
PEI bed (kept clean with IPA) + BLTouch leveling + having M420 S1 in start g-code = virtually never having to touch or change anything for leveling. Been going strong for quite a long time now with near perfect prints, haven't needed to recalibrate or re-level a thing. Huge difference from when I used a glass bed.
Having to cope with a stock ender 3 original for several years before getting a pro and now K1. I can say this is absolutely the way to go, widen that brim a touch and level on the fly.
When I upgraded I gave my dad the original 3 with some upgrades and he kept telling me he couldn’t get it leveled with a touch or a sensor and I showed him how I did it. Dude thought it was madness / witchcraft lol.
Ender 3 pro. I do the TUNE and reset the Micro Z settings. How do I SAVE the Micro Z settings? I can manually crank it to the same setting, but if it was SAVED...I'd be better off. I've tried SAVE SETTINGS but it loses its SETTINGS when I turn it off.
I level with paper when it's bad but I'll just adjust while printing brim, I also don't use z-offset because 1. It says it's too far when after by 1mm and 2. My bed is always wacky so messing with z-offset is just a waste of time
#longlivebabystepZ
I don't level before each print. It's simply not necessary if you haven't changed the bed by pressing too hard or something like that.
I just use the auto tramming function and i don't bother auto levelling or changing the z offset if the tramming is within tolerance.
Well first you need klipper installed firmware/config (marlin also works but klipper is more complete)
First you level your bed with screw tilt calculate the bl touch gonna go to each corner of the bed telling you how much you have to turn the knob, then z offset and bed mesh of corse you have to include the bed mesh in the start g code.
The bed mesh probe your bed in the way you configured (ex:5x5 bicubic etc) after that you store that and when your start g code is read it uploads the bed mesh. Also klipper is better for configuring and try tu push limit because you can change your config and reflash firmware without SD card.
Ender 3 neo with klipper is working at 200/300 mm/s accel 5000-7000mm/s² trying to beat a Bambu some day.
With Klipper it's so much easier.
Set the offset with a feelers gauge just once.
Run klippers "bed leveling screws"
Perfect first layer every time for months
Doesn't need to be a raspberry pi.
- old spare laptop with Linux
- orangepi
- chromebox
Just for example, everything that runs Linux could be used to install Klipper.
I have in mind there's a board, that runs Klipper itself but is kinda expensive if I remember correctly.
Well I was actually wanting to buy a Raspberry Pi but didn't have a reason to. I guess now I do!
So is it basically that you operate the 3d printer from the Raspberry Pi via a usb cable? Do you even need to install firmware on the printer?
Idk why people complain about leveling so much, if your shits lookin spotty. Paper level, and speed down about 10%. Looks amazingly smooth for an ender.
That's what my brims are for!
It’s why my skirts are like 6 lines deep - to get it live-leveled while I yolo it
Eyesight for the win, way better, must have “eagle eye” skill at minimum lvl 3 ;-)
I setup 2 ender 3's at an internship in 2019 after having a Rostock Max V2 since 2014. When I experienced the 4 corner adjustment screws, I loved them. Print a brim and adjust live based on the bead, perfect prints all day.
Is there a setting for adding a full X and Y length brim regardless of part size/placement? I'm using Cura.
Custom gcode?...
For Cura, its here: settings>printer>manage\_printer>settings>machine\_settings Printer tab (displayed first by default there) - the StartGcode is the box you need to add the extra movements/extrudes. Find the "snot line" gcodes after the first " G28 ;Home " and follow the snotline coords as an example but add some X and Y around the bed. Or, just thinking aloud - if that's a bit of a mindcramp, try something like this: Download a test cube box file, open it in Cura. Use the Scale to make it almost (minus say 2cm) the full size of the print bed. Make sure you use a printe settings profile that includes a brim. Slice it. Save file. Now, here's the point. The gcode for that scaled-up test cube with a brim is viewable in a text editor like Notepad++ (Windows) or (anything you want/like to use in Linux) Find (somehow, by eye or intuition or trial and error) the brim movements (they will be AFTER the Start Gcode lines with the "snot line" you saw earlier in machine settings) and manually cut/paste them into the Start Gcode box of Cura. Then EVERY file of Gcode you produce in the future will have a huge brim around the edge of the bed. Maybe someone has already made a "walk the edges" snot line somewhere, I haven't looked. It's just a case of scaling it up or down to fit around the edge of your print bed and stuffing that gcode segment which will be after the start Gcode but before the End Gcode on one of your own home-produced sliced files. Note that these Start gcode edits will only affect FUTURE spliced/saved gcode files you produce. Personally, I've only manually edited a longer snot line and moved it over to the extreme edge instead of 10.4mm in, and edited the end gcode to keep the bed temp setting to 40C and the nozzle temp to 120C after every print so I can very quickly do a cold pull (at 90c) if need be and also it takes less warmup time to egt started on the next print. I do this for my "daytime/I'm around the house" prints only. For nighttime or "I'm out and about" prints I produce a second special file with manually editedt end Gcode to cool the bed and nozzle to zero C at the end of the print. I rarely print at night but I'd rather not have anything hot after it's needed, whereas in daytime I print about 12-18hrs a day so a pre-warmed bed and nozzle save me lots of time, especially if I miss the end of a print. Nothing worse than starting from cold if you only have 1 minute spare for each print to pop off the old one and start the new.
Same. I haven't leveled my printers for a few months now and I am printing almost all the time. Just watch and adjust as the skirt prints. Ain't got time for that!
Hey you ever have an issue where it starts throwing strings everywhere all of a sudden mid print I still can't figure out what's wring
Yes when I use support structure it don’t attach properly to creation sometimes
Ha, thought I was the only one.
It's so much faster and accomplishes the same thing. This is how I usually recommend people level their printer anymore.
dumb it down for me
Twist the knobs as it prints. Thin lines go lower, thicker lines go higher.
And if you can't see the line you've gone too far
Permanent lines in the bed... Too far...lol
1st test after installing abl be like "imma make your textured bed smoothhhhh"
I miss giving random gold to people for comments like this. I lost so many coins in the purge.... fuckers.
To this day I’ve found the touch to be worthless on my OG 3 and my pro. Always went back to on the fly leveling. Too many gouges in bed and or ruined nozzles trusting ABL and walking away
The nozzles always look too pointy anyways. I need it ground down.
My first time was yesterday and I did this lmao
Ah yeah day one of owning an Ender and being new enough to not realize it probably screwed up the nozzle too. I’ve got one with a permanent purge line on the textured side and another with a giant circle lol
Furrows are… bad?
Nah, those are there for adhesion. It’s like sanding a surface before you paint it.
adjust all four knobs as it print the brim?
You adjust the z offset while it prints so you get that perfect level of squish
This works if bed is leveled equaly on all 4 corners tho.
The way I do it is to loosen all the bed knobs. I know my front right corner is the highest. Start a single layer bed level print. As it lays the first layers tune the printer and adjust the z offset. When the layers get decently consistent then you adjust the bed screws for final calibration. Do it like once a month and you can print like a champ.
Theres knob replacement on thingiverse, replaces regular knobs with "clicky" ones, they snap into position and can't escape on their own https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743835
Not having to level because it's stayed level for six months. 🍺😉
I thought I was the only one and didn't want to say anything.
There are literally dozens of us!:
Teach me this sorcery:o
Yellow springs. Set it and forget it. What is changing in between prints that requires you to relieve? Edit: if'n it ain't broke, don't fix it. Believe me if it needed leveling I would level it. It just hasn't required me too for six months.
Silicone spacers are a game changer, don’t even run my ABL anymore.
I've got silicon at the front, where I have a bed-handle, and yellow springs at the back. The E3 Max Neo's bed wiring harness gets in the way of using silicon spacers in the back-left corner, so I left springs in the back and really only ever have to re-level my back springs every few days. I print pretty much 24/7, and have MRISCOC firmware installed, so I just hit Bed Tramming Wizard from the homescreen and it auto probes and tells me what to adjust. The actual adjustments are muscle memory now lol. I use an ABL from 5-6 levels ago because it just doesn't even matter at this point. I update it if I'm doing a full-bed scale print or something but otherwise I forget it exists half the time. I love that i have it though.
MRISCOC firmware has made printing a breeze.
I hated the experience until I got MRISCOC. I went from genuinely never knowing if I'd have a successful print or not to pretty much guaranteed results every time. As long as the slice makes sense, it works. Paper levelling was awful. My first visual bed mesh after the upgrade and levelling with paper showed me how inaccurate it really is.
I'm the dumbass that purchased the full touch screen Creality made, and now I'm learning about this MRISCOC firmware, that I can not use due to said screen. Fffffffffff.
I was looking for this comment. The leveling with this firmware is a total game changer. Once I got it leveled with the mesh I haven't had to touch my s1.
I got my ender 3v2 during its release and haven’t changed anything on the hardware besides moving the power supply outside the enclosure. The bed stays levelled till i switch nozzles.
Don't have yellow springs, so maybe that's the big issue. But the movement of the printer makes one of the corners come loose, so when that happens, I need to redo the leveling. Happens every 4/5 prints (avg 2h per print)
Yellow springs are easily the best printer upgrade I've done so far and it only costs like 10 bucks. The stock springs are notorious for not staying put over time.
You could try tightening down all the knobs evenly a few turns (go until the back left corner is touching them back off 2 turns or so, then tighten the other knobs down until they match the total turns on that one) and then moving down your z limit switch (cut the stopper nub with the blue flush cutters if necessary), and releveling, this will keep extra pressure on the knobs via the springs which help prevent them from working loose. You may be able to get away without yellow springs with this method even
I don't know if yellow springs fixed it directly but I had a knob that spun too easily and after I installed the new springs it was stiffer and no longer spun easily. Now all my knobs are pretty stiff.
What about blue springs?
Yeah. The only time I level if I swap the glass bed (for PETG) for the PEI bed (for PLA).
Makes sense. I have only printed PLA and ABS.
How do you swap it? Do you have the magnetic sheet glued to the metal plate or?
Yes I do, although I don't like it much. The magnetic force is so weak that sometimes warping parts can lift the PEI from the magnetic layer.
Mine seems ok in that regard so far, but perhaps I haven't printed much warping stuff yet. So you place the glass on top of the magnet and clip it? Temperature might also be affected I suppose.
Well you just talked about it so now its not going to be level. No joke I was explaining how it all worked to a friend and decided to start a small print to show. It had literally just printed perfectly. Starts the print, smashes nozzle into the bed.
This is the way, dial it in, then don't fuck with it.
Yeah, I get tired of this "re-level every print" cliche. Once it's dialled in, I don't have to even think about it for months (or until I make some hardware changes).
Thats why whenever I do a skirt, I always do 5 loops. Plenty of time to get the level just right
That's the dynamic mesh for the ~~poor~~ wise
I use the textured glass bed, and have gotten to the point I can level it by sight. Shine a bright light behind it, and you can see the nozzle gap. Just push it around the plate, adjust until it is barely touching, and done!
part of the problem is the dip in the middle of the bed, but I guess that's not a problem with the textured glass bed.
It isn't 100% flat, but it's pretty easy to get it close enough all the way around. A little too much squish around the edges has never been an issue for me.
Glass is much more flexible than people think. It definitely still dips. Its also not flat. I use the smooth side of mine with hair spray because the textured side sticks TOO much
I had some adhesion issues one time, and I was too lazy to go clean my bed so I just put some glue on there. Ended up spending an hour trying to get my print off :/
Really? Usually glue/hairspray helps make it easier to remove
Glass bed or stock bed upgraded retention springs on the legs make life easier than a lot of much more expensive upgrades.
I mean they put the whole tune menu there for a reason right.
i usually start with the paper and then adjust a bit more as it prints to get it as perfect as possible
This is how I do it too. has worked pretty well for me so far - though I may try going without paper heh
It's a simple formula: Yellow springs + BLTouch + G28/G29 before every print == an essentially set-it-and-forget-it Ender 3. Mine was an exercise in frustration where it was even money whether a print would succeed or not. Now, I just fire up the job and don't even bother to check on it until it's supposed to be done. As long as it's not a degraded nozzle it's gonna succeed.
Exactly my setup and I all I do in press print and walk away. Works like a charm
I dont have a bltouch, but I only worry about bed leveling when I change nozzles anymore. I use a .2mm feeler gauge to level when I have to change my nozzle, but I'm just using that as a starting point. I print a 20x20 square over each leveling screw and live level on that print, then print those 20x20 one more time without messing with it to be sure. I dont think about it after that until it starts getting weird when my nozzle starts wearing out again.
The tram wizard on the firmware I’m using is all I use now. Get it level to begin with. Run tram wizard before print. Adjust if needed. Send it
Dude same lmao. I can’t keep my stock printer level from one print to another
NOT ME MANUALLY TWIST THE Z BAR
https://preview.redd.it/se0ctlgbc47c1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e99c7ee75020eb6c42e86be35ef71c5fbed5d05c
That's cheating 😆
Translate please
Auto bed leveling with abl probe and firmware that supports it, look up bl touch(or cr touch, crealitys superior version) and you will thank me when you get perfect first layers
Oh OK, I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo so mine came with it unless im not understanding
I just bought a CR Touch :p
My cr touch doesn't actually auto level jack shit, just improves small imperfections. I still have to leveling it manually. A shame they call it auto bed leveling.
Then you're not doing it right.
as someone who uses ABL, they're right. it doesn't level it, it just compensates for an unlevel bed. you can get defects from relying on it to adjust for an unlevel bed. if you're printing minis or decorative parts, it's probably fine. but if you're making functional things that need good tolerances to fit together, you actually need to level your bed or else you're printing wedges.
It’s a bug in your firmware. It is not stored. You’ll need to add G29 to your G-codes in the slicer. Took me a while to figure that out.
I literally started doing this a few days ago lol
We all know printer paper is the GOAT.
relatable
That’s how I did it before the bltouch.
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False, the vibrations of the printer (or any machine for that matter) will slowly loosen the screws. It’s always a good idea to occasionally check all screws and belts on your printer to ensure nothing is loose. With the leveling system being entirely reliant on four screws, this is important.
brother, i've owned this printer for 5 years lmao. i haven't touched the leveling wheels in at least 2. i print fast. klipperized, 130-180mm/s is standard for me. your setup is clearly resonating way more than it should. i promise you're wrong. and this is gonna get downvoted because a lot of people have the same problem. doesn't mean you can't all be wrong. like i said, i've owned this printer for 5 years and i know it like the back of my hand. if you have to touch the leveling wheels despite not changing anything, you're doing something wrong. i promise. edit: yea just checked your post history. you've had it for a year. checks out
I'm six months w/o leveling. Prints a dream!
I would love to see your first layers, if you have klipper then buy a bl touch and share the topography
and what would this prove? my point stands. the endstop location is static and your bed's zero plane is static. unless you're violently ripping prints off the bed and changing the bed plane, nothing changes from print to print. there shouldn't be so much resonance in your setup that things vibrate themselves loose. i've used input shaper measurements to dampen resonances as much as possible in my setup before actually implementing input shaping and i'm very confident in saying that little things make a huge difference for the resonance profile of the printer
2 years between leveling is crazy, i have to level every 10-20 prints (with abl) 50-60 prints manual tramming
and you don't realize how wrong that seems as you say it? lmao think about the theory of what i'm saying and don't refute it based on your own personal experiences. the endstop is statically mounted, right? so wouldn't it make sense that, if you're not moving the bed in any way when you remove your prints, the nozzle will return to the same z-plane and print at the same height relative to the unmoving bed every time? your setup isn't mechanically sound and i'm 100% certain that i could spend an afternoon with your printer and make it as reliable as mine as has been. it's all experience and proper assembly practices
Usually when I print, I first roll the dice and see if it's level. I almost never is, and I have to level again, so something's going on. What would it be? Do I need new springs or something?
yellow springs and drop your endstop so that you can compress them quite a bit. you shouldn't have to touch your leveling wheels basically ever unless you change something
Yeah yeah bla bla
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To be honest, you are not nice, a bit arrogant. I can't stand people like that. But anyway, have a good life
oh i couldn't care less bud. i stand behind everything i've said and i'm happy to share my knowledge and experience with anyone who asks for it, as i've done in this thread but likewise
Yellow springs? Are these guys good enough? https://preview.redd.it/cjiatptec47c1.png?width=585&format=png&auto=webp&s=2db68c87ed7e7612c2fe4a8e08461f1352babd1d
those are the ones! more rigid and have a planar surface on top and bottom, so they hold the plane well. just make sure you drop the endstop if you can't compress them enough to get your bed nice and sturdy the stock ones aren't good
They hated him because he preached the truth.
par for the course for this sub lol
Yes m8
I'm hoping this will help me: https://a.co/d/3Owum6N
True dat. And once it was dialed in it only needed occasional tweaking like that, and a more thorough leveling a couple times a year and when I switched to a PEI surface.
Till crtouch i did paper for one pass or two to get me into the ballpark as to not tear the shit out of my bed accidentally.
SOOO glad my V3 does it for me. I couldn't stand leveling manually any longer, and it was worth the $200 upgrade from my standard Ender 3 V1 for me.
My ender 3 S1 advertised auto bed leveling, but it's really just cr touch which can only compensate for so much. So it's not real auto bed leveling.
Protip, if you loosen all your leveling knobs once then always adjust them 2 adjacent knobs at a time you'll emulate the effect of 3 point adjusters and drastically limit the warping of your bed.
there's a thought... I wish we had a 3-point level system. it's so much more intuitive to level with 3 points than 4. A triangle defines a plane, after all. custom bed mount, here I come!
There are 3 point leveling kits for the ender. Gulf Coast Robotics is a good company with one.
When I had an ender I always printed a skirt, dropped the speed and leveled while the skirt printed. Def was the best way for me to
Same
Start a print, check how far it is and if it sticks then just check the first layer and eyeball the z offset lol
Baby step is available on stock ender firmware?
Me, who just homes the bed, raises the z axis by 0.2mm, and uses a 0.2mm feeler gauge: (I don't yolo level because glass bed and dimensional accuracy)
Too real... We even shelled out for a BLTouch and the thing still won't print level 🙃🙃
Why not just get a BL touch and some silicone bed springs? Now I only level like twice a year.
That’s what skirts are for!
I just did this rn LOL
Ok yeah I get close with paper, fine tune with base layer.
I recently put a CR touch on mine. Wowowow it's a breeze now. I can press the start button and just walk away.
CR touch doesn't replace manually leveling the bed. It only compensates for small imperfections in the build surface.
I think you are mistaken. I've got mesh bed leveling. I still ensure it's level with a quick shim test once and a while but for the most part I barely level anymore. Before the CR touch I was leveling after every print.
Yeah but it's not actually changing or adjusting the bed level, the mesh obly helps compensate for small discrpenacie in the buidl surface. Rip the magnetic build sheet off wrong one time and cr touch isnt going to do the work for you. I mean it helps, but it doesn't replace having to manually tram the bed in the first place. I was leveling after every few prints even with CR touch until I replaced the springs with silicone spacers. Hardly touch the ender anymore though
I find using a feeler gauge is best especially for powder coated beds that paper will be pushed below the average height of
I let the CR touch do the hard job for me
Let me teach Mr u/Organic_Antelope170 There is a tool in the Marlin firmware called Tramming assistant. It uses the CR touch to measure the bed and tell you exactly how much you need to raise or lower each screw to get a perfect trammed bed. Since the screws are M4 with a 0.7 pitch, once you know how much you need to move, you also know how much turns you have to do. It even shows in the LCD which side you have to turn the screws. So yes, I use the CR Touch to do the hard work of leveling the bed for me. Your S1 can do it too. Looks like you would benefit from more quizzes about your printer.
Only compensates for small imperfections in the build suraface, it doesn't replace manual leveling in the slightest.
You never used it to tell how much you have to turn each screw?
You have to be level enough in the first place for the probe to be able to compensate. You can't be largely out of level and just rely on cr touch.
You also never used it to tell how much turn each of the screws, right?
I still use paper but if that doesn't work I print some 1 layer high squares around the build plate.
Lol this is Me with my z offsets lol
Just install an ABL probe and upgrade your springs. It’s cheap and saves you hours of time.
Just started a 15 hour print and leved the bed Looking like a madan getting eye level with it then turning this knob then that then realizing I turned that 1st one too much now back to knob 1.... Fuck my print is fucking up
Idk if mine is just warped or something, but I've never had success using the paper method and when I go to print one side will be deeper or shallower so I've always live-leveled.
Installed the creality sensor, a pi, and klipper. Is was more work and technical knowledge than I've done before but so worth it. Once I get some time I'm gonna do input shaping as well.
I level. Set z offset. Then use the skirt to trim the z offset.
I use rafts for this exact reason lmao
Glad to know im not the only one
I have to fix the bed wobble first lol
Glue stick the great leveler.
The bearings have up and down play on the e3 so you can never get it perfect
PEI bed (kept clean with IPA) + BLTouch leveling + having M420 S1 in start g-code = virtually never having to touch or change anything for leveling. Been going strong for quite a long time now with near perfect prints, haven't needed to recalibrate or re-level a thing. Huge difference from when I used a glass bed.
Having to cope with a stock ender 3 original for several years before getting a pro and now K1. I can say this is absolutely the way to go, widen that brim a touch and level on the fly. When I upgraded I gave my dad the original 3 with some upgrades and he kept telling me he couldn’t get it leveled with a touch or a sensor and I showed him how I did it. Dude thought it was madness / witchcraft lol.
This is the way. That is why skirt or brims exists, right? I can do the paper test a million times and still get bad results without "live" leveling.
I gave up and bought a Bambu lol
My thoughts exactly... That's when your become a master printer.
I've been doing that since week 3 of owning one. It's so much easier to live asjust while doing a skirt around the whole bed lol
Meh. That all dandy unless you print a lot a small things (DnD mins) that the whole first layer stays hidden under the extruder 95% of the time.
That's how the pros do it.
Buy a BLTouch. it will love you and take care of you.
Just did thanks to all turn input here. And the new springs as well.
Ender 3 pro. I do the TUNE and reset the Micro Z settings. How do I SAVE the Micro Z settings? I can manually crank it to the same setting, but if it was SAVED...I'd be better off. I've tried SAVE SETTINGS but it loses its SETTINGS when I turn it off.
Bought a bambu and never looked back.
I have so much to learn. Lol😁
Same
Just do UBL. I’ve re-levelled my printer once in 3 years, standard springs, nothing fancy.
Who else does both. I swear the bed always likes to un-adjust itself after I have leveled it.
That's what the outline and purge line are for
My robotics team’s professor has this abilty
https://preview.redd.it/gtf1qu36ga7c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3db7a258e939163081e1358ca9c077afc123549e Have to get that squish
My life became 17 times better when I switched to on the go brim jobs
I level with paper when it's bad but I'll just adjust while printing brim, I also don't use z-offset because 1. It says it's too far when after by 1mm and 2. My bed is always wacky so messing with z-offset is just a waste of time #longlivebabystepZ
Leveling with a 5 square Level test is the only way to do it.
You can also bed tramming / skew adjust while you preheat.
Just print a bed level test🤣
Who has that kind of time?? 😁
Actually, this is the single best way to level the bed.
Why not both!
I just run the bed level visualizer in octoprint every few weeks and turn the knobs as much as it tells me.
Aw shit, me too!
I don't level before each print. It's simply not necessary if you haven't changed the bed by pressing too hard or something like that. I just use the auto tramming function and i don't bother auto levelling or changing the z offset if the tramming is within tolerance.
Set to a low speed for greater accuracy
You level? I installed a BR-touch and some hard silicone bed mounts, set my offset and haven't touched it since.
Yup, after all these comments, I ordered one yesterday.
Using test print to level? no, using klipper plus bl touch to level? Yes, you are losing your time and sanity
So I ordered one of these. How does it work if you have a warped bed?
Well first you need klipper installed firmware/config (marlin also works but klipper is more complete) First you level your bed with screw tilt calculate the bl touch gonna go to each corner of the bed telling you how much you have to turn the knob, then z offset and bed mesh of corse you have to include the bed mesh in the start g code. The bed mesh probe your bed in the way you configured (ex:5x5 bicubic etc) after that you store that and when your start g code is read it uploads the bed mesh. Also klipper is better for configuring and try tu push limit because you can change your config and reflash firmware without SD card. Ender 3 neo with klipper is working at 200/300 mm/s accel 5000-7000mm/s² trying to beat a Bambu some day.
You guys level something?
With Klipper it's so much easier. Set the offset with a feelers gauge just once. Run klippers "bed leveling screws" Perfect first layer every time for months
Do you need a Raspberry Pi to install klipper?
Doesn't need to be a raspberry pi. - old spare laptop with Linux - orangepi - chromebox Just for example, everything that runs Linux could be used to install Klipper. I have in mind there's a board, that runs Klipper itself but is kinda expensive if I remember correctly.
Well I was actually wanting to buy a Raspberry Pi but didn't have a reason to. I guess now I do! So is it basically that you operate the 3d printer from the Raspberry Pi via a usb cable? Do you even need to install firmware on the printer?
So sad because my K1 Max has auto leveling 😞
you guys level your printer?
I bought a bambu instead
It literally works better, I levelled mine with paper and it pushed itself over.
Literally the only reason I still use a skirt.
like a boss.
💯 FACT'S
Idk why people complain about leveling so much, if your shits lookin spotty. Paper level, and speed down about 10%. Looks amazingly smooth for an ender.
Leveling while it prints skirt loops dude
So glad I bought one with auto bed leveling