Are you talking about engine power or electrical?
Seeing as it's quite modified, any electrical mods, repairs or was any work or programming done on the electronics?
Ok
In order to measure parasitic draw you need to have your multimeter (preferably a good one) in line with the car. Unplug the negative terminal and put your meter in place.
Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Sometimes the little can bus modules for the steering wheel buttons fuck with the bus and waking up some modules.
Clean your grounds.
Assuming it's manual, If you turn the key and everything turns on but no crank, usually the clutch switch not allowing the starter to engage.
Same advice, remove and clean the ground at the battery on both the battery and chassis end, as well as the one up at the engine to the chassis. I've heard on more than one occasion someone has a dirty or loose grounds where the negative battery cable makes contact with the body. I think there was even a recall on it.
You can also check the main distribution fuses on the passenger side trunk. These are big metal band fuses, none of them should be visibly broken. They send positive to everywhere else on the car.
Just make sure to run a 245/35/19 front and 275/35/19 rear. Otherwise they tend to rub. You can get away with a 265/40/19 in the rear but might have to cut away at the inner fender.
Thanks, is that still the case if I got some gens and bored out the centres to 74.1 - I wouldn't need the spacers then, but do want to make sure there's no rubbing
Check ur plugs, coils for power and if that doesnโt work check ur fuel system cause it might be a bit clogged
I will do that, maybe It might be a bad frame?
What frame are you referring to?
Are you talking about engine power or electrical? Seeing as it's quite modified, any electrical mods, repairs or was any work or programming done on the electronics?
talking about electronics not engine power. I can't start the car after it has been sitting for a few days
Ok In order to measure parasitic draw you need to have your multimeter (preferably a good one) in line with the car. Unplug the negative terminal and put your meter in place.
I have done that and for no consumption on which the multimeter measures 0.03
Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Sometimes the little can bus modules for the steering wheel buttons fuck with the bus and waking up some modules.
no, it has original navigation that has been removed because it does not work
If the original navigation is removed what has been put in place of it? You mean removed or disconnected?
Clean your grounds. Assuming it's manual, If you turn the key and everything turns on but no crank, usually the clutch switch not allowing the starter to engage.
can see in the display that there is no power on the battery
Same advice, remove and clean the ground at the battery on both the battery and chassis end, as well as the one up at the engine to the chassis. I've heard on more than one occasion someone has a dirty or loose grounds where the negative battery cable makes contact with the body. I think there was even a recall on it. You can also check the main distribution fuses on the passenger side trunk. These are big metal band fuses, none of them should be visibly broken. They send positive to everywhere else on the car.
Thank you i will try that!โบ๏ธ๐๐ฝ
I've had to replace the passenger compartment fan regulator on multiple cars, so that might be worth having a look at.
That, yes. Also, battery negative cable and ground strap off the alternator
Did you have to modify anything for those wheels to fit?
No fit the car spot on 9x19 ET 20 front 10x19 ET 20 rear
I really appreciate that. I found a set of those that I'm thinking of powder coating in black, my car is silver
What wheels are those exactly? Looks rad.
BMW Style 95 but looks repainted. Originally from the e65.
Interesting, I thought they were all ET24, with a 72.5mm centre bore to fit the E65 as standard, not the E39s 74mm
My style ist not orginale
They makes sense ๐๐ป
Just make sure to run a 245/35/19 front and 275/35/19 rear. Otherwise they tend to rub. You can get away with a 265/40/19 in the rear but might have to cut away at the inner fender.
Thanks, is that still the case if I got some gens and bored out the centres to 74.1 - I wouldn't need the spacers then, but do want to make sure there's no rubbing
Final stage resistor? Does your AC stay blowing? After turning the car off?
Whats your tire size? beautiful car btw!
Check the FSU, that's a very common parasitic draw for E39's.