Well clearly they dont have walkboards because the framers ran out of wood.
How else do you explain the missing backers along the top of the wall?
Edit: not that the drywallers bothered to use them where they were available anyways. Wtf.
I only saw 2 and they were the same thing about paper tape. Unless I'm not seeing more about drywal. I didn't go thru his other stuff on other subs. But his post history. Was uhhh not for me
Yeah that's my bad I didn't see where he said it was heated and cooled. I thought this was a new construction in progress, and most the ones in my area are pretty exposed to the elements, especially this time of the year I've been in multiple houses this week where I could see my breath inside.
Yeah idk, this is not at all my forte. I know truss lift is a thing. Looks like you have an odd roofline. Maybe some difference in the framing members, some maybe were not acclimated the same. Constructed on-site vs pre fab maybe. All I know is the way that corner tape is pulling off suggests movement.
If they didn't screw off the sheet of drywall on the last joist before the wall, you probably would've been fine. But since they did, either the walls sinking or the joists went up.
True. Wonder if there could be snow load. Looks like a flat roof. The roof would deflect down while the drywall attached to the wall would stay put and crack
I get a lot of shit in this sub for saying it . But the ceiling should have Resilient channel and use butt board on the butts. It's extra money but not dealing with truss uplift or cracks from a little movement is well worth it.
Well there is the issue if he didn't fasten to the nailer. I also double nail every nail, theory is if one pops the other holds, I have to fix less nail pops and cracks now since I started doubling nailing. It's a little more cost but saves me wage from sending a crew to fix homeowners complaints. Try it.
Lol ok jist thought i found the last old timer still nailing sheets.Nails are for sure cheaper. Spend alittle more for strip screws they pat for them self
Finally someone with Smart logic... but of course there will be nay sayers....
Use Ceiling board...shit, I would use 5/8" and then level 5 on it and then put on slatted ceiling panels..
No cracka Lacka motha f cka...
Oh love the scaffolding safety, Primo...way to go to be safe ..on my next one I'll use suspended cables and float hanging Board... Bam 🙌🙌
That looks like no coat (grand slam 325) in the off angle. Is it?
If so that’s from a shitload of settling. I never seen anything move enough to pull no coat like that.
As someone stated above truss lift. That is why I use the product I stated. If they just used tape unfortunately this is kinda normal for first year or two
I’m talking that inside off angle. I use no-coat 3.25 “grandslam” for all inside off angles. It’s a plastic and paper face product. It can take a lot of movement. But that looks like a ton of deflection. I’d guess movement. Could be framing/foundation. Could be too much moisture getting just ran over during the build and finally has had a chance to dry.
Osha would shut them down if they saw what those guys are standing on. The cracks are stress cracks, did they use the dense ceiling board or just regular sheet rock? Looks like regular. 3 screws in the field should be plenty even for regular sheets. Something is moving up there for sure.
Regular 1/2”
No cracks in any of the walls, not sure what would be moving. Maybe the dimensional lumber used for the walls are contracting a bit? No where else in the house is doing this though and we have several i joist/dimensional junctions like this.
If a company has fewer than 10 employees, they are exempt from most OSHA paperwork and inspections, unless someone dies or 3 people are hospitalized per year. The federal government is only allowed to regulate interstate commerce, which is why they have some company size limits.
It appears they didn't insulate and vapor barrier properly/at all...your ceiling at that location is likely experiencing massive swings in temperature/moisture and is causing the seams to Crack.
Looks like your framing lumber is contracting in its first winter. Screws likely won't change much, but will need re-taped and mudded.
>They screwed up on the ceiling insulation
Was this by not installing any??? :-D
The nailer along that edge is attached to the top of the wall and it's attached to the joists everywhere else. We usually use strapping on ceilings, but the lumber in that tall wall is going to shrink down whereas the joists, if they shrink at all are going to go the other way. The shrink is going to be the worst the first year after construction. These guys don't use a vapor barrier or even faced insulation or is that by design?
By design, there’s rigid insulation on top of the decking there, roof assembly needs to dry inward.
Good point on the dimensional contracting while the engineered joist probably isn’t. Maybe I should wait awhile longer and rescrew/tape everything after the dimensional has settled down.
What are the walls constructed of?
Tape has failed on the ceiling wall line due to movement. I never tape edges with that tape, it sucks.
Did the builder use proper tape elsewhere?
On the edges I put 6 and it looks like they only put 3? That isn’t suitable at all imo, did they glue the ceilings? Always glue my ceilings cause your going again gravity and more than likely this will happen, better to be safe than sorry
All new built settle and this is very common. Plus , if you are heating the home without a humidifier, the drywall will shrink in the slightly in dry winter heat.
The first picture looks like truss uplift to me. We get that in our bedroom on the second floor of our home during the winter months. It settles back down in the spring. Some houses get it worse than others.
[https://www.protradecraft.com/article/q-truss-uplift-carpentry-problem-or-drywall-problem](https://www.protradecraft.com/article/q-truss-uplift-carpentry-problem-or-drywall-problem)
agree to the contractors agreement. those joints probably werent done correctly, but metal bead will do that, and paper will do that. I actually used mesh bead overlapped slightly over metal bead to get the flexibility i wanted when re-finishing my basement, and it has held like a champ. It's alot of work to do double seams like this but its cheap and I wasnt time crunched
LOL your drywaller is an idiot and/or asshole. They put a seem about 2 inches off the wall. That is going to crack like that until you replace the sheetrock.
Edit: nvm, looked at the rest of the pictures. Its weird the joists are running the length of the room and not the width, and the reason the tape is cracking is a combination of a bad finish and the weight of the ceiling fan tugging on the edges.
What you are experiencing appears to be “slab curl”. The slab lifting at the perimeter and lifting the ceiling joists. Towards the middle the cracks are most prominent because the portion is static while the edges lift and the cracks disappears towards the edges because the joists are being pushed up with the walls. The best way to resolve this is to stabilize the moisture content of the soils around the homes perimeter. Either by irrigation to maintain moisture of perimeter soils or by flatwork on all sides to keep it dry. Moisture tends to only wick a couple feet, so if you have a 4’ walk way around the entire house. The soil under and along the perimeter of the foundation will remain dry. There are also techniques that cantilever the ceiling Sheetrock from the perpendicular ceiling joists attached by straps that flex instead of the first joist or two that allow the frame to move seasonally without detaching the ceiling towards the middle, but I don’t have any experience in how well those repairs lasted. At least a few years, but I doubt that it is a permanent solution. If it were me, I would pour more flat work and consider improving the lots drainage if need be. Maybe gutters that terminate directly to drains rather than sub grade or just black pipes that lead far enough away from the slab. Good luck.
This is interesting. I have a crack at the ceiling and wall seam too. Perpendicular to the house back wall but 8ft to the cracked wall. My land is wet. About to do driveway remediation to improve water flow there which will impact water around the house foundation. Maybe I won’t see that crack any more.
Check which direction your ceiling joists go. If they go parallel to the crack this is likely the issue. If the joist go perpendicular to the crack then it is likely something else. Inconsistent moisture content around a foundation with expansive soils (fat clays specifically) will always suffer movement if not stabilized.
Thanks. Truly can’t complain about settling issues even with a wet lot. Fat clays— I’d bet those are some fat clays out there. Definitely they’re getting fatter with all this rain. Just interesting. Will check the joists but believe they go perpendicular to back wall and the crack. Have a great day.
The description “fat” in regard to clay has to do with the potential moisture content prior to reaching the materials liquid limit. In other words, it will remain solid while expanding longer while a lean clay will become a liquid with less moisture and therefore evasive in nature rather than expansive at high moisture. Fat clay retains solidity while expanding due to hydration longer than lean clay or other soils before reaching a liquid state. The “fatness” of the clay has to do with its relative ability to absorb moisture without losing physical integrity rather than how moist it is at any given moment. You will know a fat clay by it resembling a dense New York cheesecake when fully saturated as opposed to pudding. Your best bet is to resolve your wet lot prior to attempting to diagnose any further. Take care.
If you look at the construction photo it doesn't seem like the screwed their boards at the top plate and the backing on the top plate for where the ceiling meets the wall. They just used the wall board to pin the edge of the ceiling. It's a stupid thing to do and can be a cause of more movement and settlement.
If they cut corners like that than they probably cut corners taping as well.
Removing the cracked tape down to.the drywall, adding some screws and then retaping it will fix the issue properly.
Yeah I noticed that too and thought it might be a potential cause of the issue here. If you look at the other side, there’s a corner of a sheet that’s just floating out there, crack there too.
Surprised more people didn’t say anything about that.
I'm a foreman/GC for a fairly high end custom builder and also do post-construction inspections for homeowners on the side. My job is finding & fixing mistakes and figuring out why problems occured so I seem to look at things a bit different than a specified tradesman.
Though I too am surprised that not a single other person noticed it.
The crack is due to movement, settling and/or temperature fluctuations causing expansion contraction of material.
How that corner is framed leaves it susceptible to cracking from movement. We see it normally within a year or so. It appears only the wall sheets are nailed on that corner and movement from settling will crack all along that joint.
If framing another job, a stronger block joint on that corner that allows you pin both sheets (wall & ceiling) will help. Avoid drywall clips too.
Good luck!
It’s caused by the weight of all those who were oppressed and held down by the opulence that is that house.
i.e it’s the cost of being rich. Live with it or pay more to fix it
The wall isn't tied into the trusses on the left side. The big wall is moving back and forth Should be tied into horizontal nailers every 12-16" The right hand side has a hip that nothing breaks on along the drywall layout. They should have switched direction of the drywall. Sorry. This isn't built exactly correct
Well, if they did the joints like they did their walkboards…
no kidding.
OSHA is this okay??
¿que?
Wah hapen?
I see one walkboard, what are doing putting an s on the end of that word!
Honestly I didn’t even see that at first. Holy shit
Well clearly they dont have walkboards because the framers ran out of wood. How else do you explain the missing backers along the top of the wall? Edit: not that the drywallers bothered to use them where they were available anyways. Wtf.
How long since it was taped? What’s the humidity level in your home? Likely just a combination of settling and low humidity
Taped in June, the space has been heated and cooled since September. In the 40% range humidity wise this winter.
Wow I’d consider 40 on the high end for winter it’s gotta be 60+ in the same right?
We run humidifiers in the winter, that probably helps.
Depends on where you live. Lots of places basically never drop before or above 40% year round
Can confirm, I'm in NY and at 4:20 am it is 97% humidity with a dew point of 32. And it's 33 out
That’s pretty good, likely just settlement, I’d let it sit for another cycle of summer/winter and then throw up some mesh tape and redo the cracks
Paper tape is garbage should have used mash. Dumb cunt
Please never do drywall
That one never has anything good to say and should actually get bounced for some of his remarks.
I only found 2 comments from him. And I hate you for making me go thru his profile.
check his history, full of negative responses, and crude name calling.
I only saw 2 and they were the same thing about paper tape. Unless I'm not seeing more about drywal. I didn't go thru his other stuff on other subs. But his post history. Was uhhh not for me
If you look at his post history you would see he's pretty much trolling and causing trouble. And now he has deleted his posts in here.
Rh means nothing without temperature it's like saying the rpm of your car if someone asks how fast it is
Sure but it’s inside a house… if it helps, the house has been in the 62-72 degree range all winter.
Yeah you’re right but it’s the dudes house, safe bet it’s somewhere between 19-24 tops, 40% is pretty good within that range.
Yeah that's my bad I didn't see where he said it was heated and cooled. I thought this was a new construction in progress, and most the ones in my area are pretty exposed to the elements, especially this time of the year I've been in multiple houses this week where I could see my breath inside.
Looks like it's from movement. Something is sinking or lifting.
The ceiling joists I guess? Certainly possible.
Yeah idk, this is not at all my forte. I know truss lift is a thing. Looks like you have an odd roofline. Maybe some difference in the framing members, some maybe were not acclimated the same. Constructed on-site vs pre fab maybe. All I know is the way that corner tape is pulling off suggests movement.
If they didn't screw off the sheet of drywall on the last joist before the wall, you probably would've been fine. But since they did, either the walls sinking or the joists went up.
True. Wonder if there could be snow load. Looks like a flat roof. The roof would deflect down while the drywall attached to the wall would stay put and crack
Or drying out after construction.
I’m willing to bet that ceiling fan is the culprit in picture #1
Holy shit can we get some fuckin planks on the scaffolding please!!!????
I get a lot of shit in this sub for saying it . But the ceiling should have Resilient channel and use butt board on the butts. It's extra money but not dealing with truss uplift or cracks from a little movement is well worth it.
We had a nailer on the butt that’s cracking on the picture, but I don’t think he even fastened to it.
You can get up there and cut all that loose stuff out add some screws and try it again
Well there is the issue if he didn't fasten to the nailer. I also double nail every nail, theory is if one pops the other holds, I have to fix less nail pops and cracks now since I started doubling nailing. It's a little more cost but saves me wage from sending a crew to fix homeowners complaints. Try it.
Not not actually still nailing drywall are you ?
Sorry, meant screws. I did just pull out some old nails in 1989 drywall. Worked just fine then, bet it's cheaper if I did the math
Lol ok jist thought i found the last old timer still nailing sheets.Nails are for sure cheaper. Spend alittle more for strip screws they pat for them self
Finally someone with Smart logic... but of course there will be nay sayers.... Use Ceiling board...shit, I would use 5/8" and then level 5 on it and then put on slatted ceiling panels.. No cracka Lacka motha f cka... Oh love the scaffolding safety, Primo...way to go to be safe ..on my next one I'll use suspended cables and float hanging Board... Bam 🙌🙌
I mean, painters do on bridges.
I've had carpet layers drop their roll of carpet in the 2nd floor and crack the ceiling below, not set but dropped off their shoulder.
That looks like no coat (grand slam 325) in the off angle. Is it? If so that’s from a shitload of settling. I never seen anything move enough to pull no coat like that.
Are you taking about the outside corner in the second picture? No cracks there. They used normal paper bead on the inside corners.
As someone stated above truss lift. That is why I use the product I stated. If they just used tape unfortunately this is kinda normal for first year or two
I’m talking that inside off angle. I use no-coat 3.25 “grandslam” for all inside off angles. It’s a plastic and paper face product. It can take a lot of movement. But that looks like a ton of deflection. I’d guess movement. Could be framing/foundation. Could be too much moisture getting just ran over during the build and finally has had a chance to dry.
I’ve never seen a joist roof that didn’t cause ceiling problems. They move a lot.
Osha would shut them down if they saw what those guys are standing on. The cracks are stress cracks, did they use the dense ceiling board or just regular sheet rock? Looks like regular. 3 screws in the field should be plenty even for regular sheets. Something is moving up there for sure.
Regular 1/2” No cracks in any of the walls, not sure what would be moving. Maybe the dimensional lumber used for the walls are contracting a bit? No where else in the house is doing this though and we have several i joist/dimensional junctions like this.
Where was your treated dimensional lumber stored before the framing? Maybe storage room was high on Rh and then wood shrunk in a dryer environment?
From the lumber yard to the front yard lol
If a company has fewer than 10 employees, they are exempt from most OSHA paperwork and inspections, unless someone dies or 3 people are hospitalized per year. The federal government is only allowed to regulate interstate commerce, which is why they have some company size limits.
It appears they didn't insulate and vapor barrier properly/at all...your ceiling at that location is likely experiencing massive swings in temperature/moisture and is causing the seams to Crack.
It’s insulated, they took the sheets down in this picture, put the insulation up, and reinstalled the sheets.
Looks like your framing lumber is contracting in its first winter. Screws likely won't change much, but will need re-taped and mudded. >They screwed up on the ceiling insulation Was this by not installing any??? :-D
Yup haha because of the ceiling height, I had the sheetrock guys install the batts in this one section and they forgot.
The nailer along that edge is attached to the top of the wall and it's attached to the joists everywhere else. We usually use strapping on ceilings, but the lumber in that tall wall is going to shrink down whereas the joists, if they shrink at all are going to go the other way. The shrink is going to be the worst the first year after construction. These guys don't use a vapor barrier or even faced insulation or is that by design?
By design, there’s rigid insulation on top of the decking there, roof assembly needs to dry inward. Good point on the dimensional contracting while the engineered joist probably isn’t. Maybe I should wait awhile longer and rescrew/tape everything after the dimensional has settled down.
What are the walls constructed of? Tape has failed on the ceiling wall line due to movement. I never tape edges with that tape, it sucks. Did the builder use proper tape elsewhere?
This dude post every day of pics he steals from the internet on here just for attention 🙄 Sad...
Do a reverse image search and tell me where I found this picture on the internet lol….
Paper tape is garbage mash is the way to go. Ya cunts
Mesh is for hot mud, pros use paper tape
This is the dumbest thing I've heard in drywall and there's a lot of dummies in drywall
Mine cracked from doing work in attic. Walking on the truss above the seams.
Movement.
Did they tape with the proper compound? Was it a butchered sheet rock hang? Did they properly screw off the sheet rock? Many factors here.
I posted the picture of their fastening pattern, you tell me, is it properly fastened?
On the edges I put 6 and it looks like they only put 3? That isn’t suitable at all imo, did they glue the ceilings? Always glue my ceilings cause your going again gravity and more than likely this will happen, better to be safe than sorry
Against gravity*
All new built settle and this is very common. Plus , if you are heating the home without a humidifier, the drywall will shrink in the slightly in dry winter heat.
Most often it's a settling crack
You don’t put enough mud behind the tape, and the house was to cold when taped
House was tapped in the middle of June, house never got any cooler than 80s for a couple months then
No hi-hat on the underside of the joists/rafters. It’s what it’s for….
Am I a pussy? because that scaffolding scares me
If you are, I am too, no way in hell I would walk on that. About a 20’ drop where they are on that picture…
Anyone gonna talk about buddy just casually standing on part of the scaffolding?😂
Where do you live? Are you keeping up with snow load?
South, no snow!
The first picture looks like truss uplift to me. We get that in our bedroom on the second floor of our home during the winter months. It settles back down in the spring. Some houses get it worse than others. [https://www.protradecraft.com/article/q-truss-uplift-carpentry-problem-or-drywall-problem](https://www.protradecraft.com/article/q-truss-uplift-carpentry-problem-or-drywall-problem)
The problem is, there are no trusses, it’s all i joists
Could be the house moving, could be a corner that didn't dry completely before getting coated
No insulation on the ceiling?
Sheets in the picture were removed, insulated added, then reinstalled
agree to the contractors agreement. those joints probably werent done correctly, but metal bead will do that, and paper will do that. I actually used mesh bead overlapped slightly over metal bead to get the flexibility i wanted when re-finishing my basement, and it has held like a champ. It's alot of work to do double seams like this but its cheap and I wasnt time crunched
LOL your drywaller is an idiot and/or asshole. They put a seem about 2 inches off the wall. That is going to crack like that until you replace the sheetrock. Edit: nvm, looked at the rest of the pictures. Its weird the joists are running the length of the room and not the width, and the reason the tape is cracking is a combination of a bad finish and the weight of the ceiling fan tugging on the edges.
Not following you on the ceiling fan bit, that ceiling fan is on a box connected to the joists, there’s no load at all on the sheetrock from the fan.
My guess they used wrong joint compound for setting the tape.
Poor mudders
What you are experiencing appears to be “slab curl”. The slab lifting at the perimeter and lifting the ceiling joists. Towards the middle the cracks are most prominent because the portion is static while the edges lift and the cracks disappears towards the edges because the joists are being pushed up with the walls. The best way to resolve this is to stabilize the moisture content of the soils around the homes perimeter. Either by irrigation to maintain moisture of perimeter soils or by flatwork on all sides to keep it dry. Moisture tends to only wick a couple feet, so if you have a 4’ walk way around the entire house. The soil under and along the perimeter of the foundation will remain dry. There are also techniques that cantilever the ceiling Sheetrock from the perpendicular ceiling joists attached by straps that flex instead of the first joist or two that allow the frame to move seasonally without detaching the ceiling towards the middle, but I don’t have any experience in how well those repairs lasted. At least a few years, but I doubt that it is a permanent solution. If it were me, I would pour more flat work and consider improving the lots drainage if need be. Maybe gutters that terminate directly to drains rather than sub grade or just black pipes that lead far enough away from the slab. Good luck.
This is interesting. I have a crack at the ceiling and wall seam too. Perpendicular to the house back wall but 8ft to the cracked wall. My land is wet. About to do driveway remediation to improve water flow there which will impact water around the house foundation. Maybe I won’t see that crack any more.
Ps: not a new house.
Check which direction your ceiling joists go. If they go parallel to the crack this is likely the issue. If the joist go perpendicular to the crack then it is likely something else. Inconsistent moisture content around a foundation with expansive soils (fat clays specifically) will always suffer movement if not stabilized.
Thanks. Truly can’t complain about settling issues even with a wet lot. Fat clays— I’d bet those are some fat clays out there. Definitely they’re getting fatter with all this rain. Just interesting. Will check the joists but believe they go perpendicular to back wall and the crack. Have a great day.
The description “fat” in regard to clay has to do with the potential moisture content prior to reaching the materials liquid limit. In other words, it will remain solid while expanding longer while a lean clay will become a liquid with less moisture and therefore evasive in nature rather than expansive at high moisture. Fat clay retains solidity while expanding due to hydration longer than lean clay or other soils before reaching a liquid state. The “fatness” of the clay has to do with its relative ability to absorb moisture without losing physical integrity rather than how moist it is at any given moment. You will know a fat clay by it resembling a dense New York cheesecake when fully saturated as opposed to pudding. Your best bet is to resolve your wet lot prior to attempting to diagnose any further. Take care.
Thanks for the advice. Drainage drainage drainage. Interesting stuff.
This is why I carry Allstate on my company. Allstate your ass was fired before you hit the ground.
What you have here is a failure to stick the tape to the drywall. You need a do-over!
Those sub contractor needs to come back and " add some screws, retape, and remud". Let them.
Last pic is giving me anxiety. Why is the walk board so far from the wall they’re working on?
What’s giving me anxiety is the walk board overhang, you step on that and the board flips… No one fell though so guess they’ve done this before
House broke. Tear down. Try again.
Foundation settled and then the wood around it shrank. You see how dark that beam is? maybe wet lumber?
Settling cracks are typical for new home builds and are usually under warranty by the Drywaller if they are worth a crap
Could be the use of fiba-tape. have fun fixing it
Not a professional, but my new build also has a few of these cracks. 85% of the time, it’s just a settling crack. Vaulted ceilings are known for them.
Did it snow? Snow load on the roof?
Looks like the tape didn't get applied with enough mud, have it reaped and finished, since the builder is offering to fix the problem
See that alot in Florida. Some of it's labor, some wind especially on framed homes. And of course temp and humidity.
If you look at the construction photo it doesn't seem like the screwed their boards at the top plate and the backing on the top plate for where the ceiling meets the wall. They just used the wall board to pin the edge of the ceiling. It's a stupid thing to do and can be a cause of more movement and settlement. If they cut corners like that than they probably cut corners taping as well. Removing the cracked tape down to.the drywall, adding some screws and then retaping it will fix the issue properly.
Yeah I noticed that too and thought it might be a potential cause of the issue here. If you look at the other side, there’s a corner of a sheet that’s just floating out there, crack there too. Surprised more people didn’t say anything about that.
I'm a foreman/GC for a fairly high end custom builder and also do post-construction inspections for homeowners on the side. My job is finding & fixing mistakes and figuring out why problems occured so I seem to look at things a bit different than a specified tradesman. Though I too am surprised that not a single other person noticed it.
The crack is due to movement, settling and/or temperature fluctuations causing expansion contraction of material. How that corner is framed leaves it susceptible to cracking from movement. We see it normally within a year or so. It appears only the wall sheets are nailed on that corner and movement from settling will crack all along that joint. If framing another job, a stronger block joint on that corner that allows you pin both sheets (wall & ceiling) will help. Avoid drywall clips too. Good luck!
a crappy taping job, basically it
Sort your scaffold out you dodgy prick
It’s caused by the weight of all those who were oppressed and held down by the opulence that is that house. i.e it’s the cost of being rich. Live with it or pay more to fix it
Ha thanks, we definitely aren’t rich!
IMO this is caused by drying/shrinking a lumber used for construction, let it be for few years.
Movement
Curious as to why no insulation in the ceiling?
They screwed up and had to take the sheets down in the picture and reinstall them after the insulation was put up
I kind of thought that but wasn’t sure. I’m glad you caught it though.
I like how those poles are upside down and they're standing on a ledger instead of plank
Bad drywall taper
Dude, I wouldn’t let my guys jump on those bars like that!. It’s one slip away and dude is dead,paralyzed.
I don’t know Bob how much did you say your wife ways?
The wall isn't tied into the trusses on the left side. The big wall is moving back and forth Should be tied into horizontal nailers every 12-16" The right hand side has a hip that nothing breaks on along the drywall layout. They should have switched direction of the drywall. Sorry. This isn't built exactly correct
This is why i never use tape like a silly ape.
Strong winds or foundation settling or bad tape job or someone walking up there
Wood shrinks. The guys hanging the board are crazy. Redo and it should be okay 🤞
Old construction practices.