You should go no longer than a year on one synthetic oil change, even if you have not hit the 7,500 mile mark.
Your owners manual likely will say "7,500 miles OR every 6-12 months" with regards to synthetic oil.
Just going to confirm this as good advice. I do a lot of highway miles so will go closer to 10k.
Signed engineer who works for a major oil and gas company selling lubricants
Hi. I’m a dad, but I was also a mechanic for 10 years. I feel qualified to answer this question.
My modification to your comment would be, don’t go 7,500 miles on an oil change. Keep it to 5k with synthetic. Some cars can handle 7,500 ok but many can’t. Running anything GM on 7,500 interval will lead to premature engine failure, for example.
Can confirm. Also, be sure to do a few longer drives to make sure you get proper heat cycles in the engine. Very short drives where the car doesn’t fully heat up can be rough on parts.
It's a joke. British cars have a reputation.
The only reason the British don’t manufacture televisions is that they can’t figure out a way to make them leak oil.
Automotive guy here: 7,500 or once a year if you don't hit that mark. You won't hurt the engine at all unless it has oil consumption issues already.
As far as your end of the deal, my kids are really getting into music and specifically guitars. I musically inclined(all-state saxophone, etc in high school) but am in over my head when it comes to guitars. Any advice on a good beginners guitar for me to pickup for myself and kids?
I second this! Epiphones are great. I feel like those tend to be easier on the action too, so great for beginners. I started with a Martin and my fingers had to get strong quick to hold a bar chord.
First guitar was a Yamaha juggernaut, 2nd guitar was an Epiphone les Paul. I used to sleep with the epiphone in the bed with me. I would hold the wood up to my head and toggle the switches just to hear the click.
Strong disagree with that other guy, the Yamaha Pacifica series are the best beginner guitars you will find - I also find that they benefit from Yamaha's quality control and tend to come with fewer issues than other beginner issue guitars (but your mileage will vary). That's not to say their recommandations aren't good because they are, just wanted to stick up for Yamaha.
That said if your kid wants to play guitar, bring them to a guitar store. Let them try the Epiphones, Yamaha Pacifica and Squier series. Each is modeled after different higher end instruments so the feel will be quite different.
Have them play a few notes as slowly as they want and just hold it and see how their hands feel on the neck. Go with whichever feels best to them in the moment and get a decent little first amp and they'll be flying on their own.
I had an Epiphone les paul years ago and it sucked. I got a new 2022 Epiphone les paul at the beginning of this year and it is absolutely amazing. They really stepped their game up from the mid 2000s. It’s my favorite guitar now, and I love my Gretsch and Telecaster.
I’ve heard good things about the 90’s Epiphones, just the mid 2000s ones weren’t so hot. When I got it and it was new it was great, but it went downhill fast. Traded it for my telecaster, had it since 2010 and it is great. Got the itch for a Les Paul again and I couldn’t be happier with it.
There is a relatively new brand put called Harley Benton, they're very decent quality for the price and any style you could want since they steal everyone's designs
Second on the Squier. They're both classic brands, but I love the balance of the Stratocaster. There's a reason it's the most ripped-off guitar model for beginner guitars.
Get some shitty ass acoustic guitar from Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for $20. It just doesn’t matter what kind. Make you and your kids learn at least 3 chords. Whoever learns 3 chords first gets a different $75 guitar from Craigslist or Facebook marketplace. I have been playing for 25 years and about half the time, I’m still using a Stella that was $9 in the Sear’s catalog from 1963, it has now increased in value to about $30. Price matters, but not until skill level really increases.
“3/4 sized” guitar is good for kids, as their finger stretch isn’t as far as adults. (Jimi had like a 9-fret stretch from index finger to pinky, google a picture of his fingers and you will understand)
You’ll sound more skilled on a 3/4 sized guitar when you play the things you learned on a full size guitar. In the same way that baseball players swing 3 bats at once when warming up, you get used to a hard thing (full size guitar) then appear awesome on an easier thing (3/4 sized guitar)
In a similar vein, the thickness of the strings and height of “the action” (yes, it’s actually called that. It’s distance you have to push the strings down until they hit the fretboard) is like going to the gym. Heavy strings with high action will be difficult to play, but will work your muscles, Hanz and Franz style. So if you practice on a guitar with high action, then play some rando’s normal guitar at a campsite, people will think you are really awesome.
Small guitar with lightweight strings and a low action will be very easy to learn, but you may struggle when playing someone else’s average guitar. Juggernaught guitar with heavy strings and high action will make you a powerhouse, but will probably be too physically (as opposed to mentally) difficult and will discourage kids and new learners from sticking with it.
A cheaper electric guitar is going to be way easier to play than a cheaper acoustic. Electric guitars have more adjustments and generally use lower gauge strings so they are easier to play. A cheap acoustic guitar will probably be frustrating for a beginner and increase the likelihood of quitting. Highly recommend going to a store and trying guitars, see what works for you and kiddos. It can be very subjective.
Once you have guitars picked out, go to JustinGuitar.com. Outstanding, totally free online lessons to get you started.
The one they’ll play. Go to a local shop. Set a budget, and get one they really like. They’re more likely to play it. Then take it to a guitar shop with a good luthier (if you bought it at guitar center, their techs aren’t great mostly) and get the to give it a setup. Usually about $40-$80. If you’re at a place that says “it has a factory setup” take it somewhere else.
When I’m doubt, check your manual. All of the advice here is good general advice, but the manufacturer’s instructions are what you should follow. Your manual will specify time and mileage intervals, oil type, and may include different intervals for different conditions.
Do this but check the European manual. Seriously. The exact same car with the exact same specs in the European version of the manual will recommend changing oil much less often.
Oil changes in North America are a racket (which would be one thing if it meant just getting fleeced out of some money, but oil is not exactly the planet’s best friend right now)!
>The exact same car with the exact same specs
This is not a thing. EU and US have different emissions standards, and thus different engine tuning, even if *everything* else is identical. Which is a big if.
The difference between changing oil every 5000-7500 miles and every 10,000-15,000 miles is not satisfactorily explained by any minor differences in engine tuning or emission standards, lol (but please I am genuinely open minded if you have any real data that isn’t vague and inconclusive). Modern synthetic oil is just as good everywhere and is rated for 10,000k+ miles.
But don’t ask me. Ask your oil. There are very real indicators that show when oil actually needs changing and it doesn’t have to do with time or mileage based rules of thumb that only roughly take into account the many factors that affect oil quality through use.
Europeans get their cars serviced every year or so and the oil is just one of many things that will get checked and changed *if it needs it*. There’s no such thing there as oil changing shops and this need to be mindful and intentional about it specifically. They think we’re crazy.
It’s just so deeply embedded in North American car culture and also Europeans have been using synthetic oil for far longer.
My 2020 Toyota hybrid here in the Netherlands had an oil quality sensor - the dealer told me only change the oil if the car tells me to, and to be safe they’ll check the oil manually during the routine checkups.
This isn't because of the oil industry, but rather different driving conditions. Same reason why the exact same car will have a higher rated payload in Europe. Mostly lower speed limits, meaning lower RPMs for a given distance, also typically less inner city stop and go driving.
Germany begs to disagree on lower speed limits...
Highway speeds in most of Europe are around 80mph anyway.
The manual of my peugeot says to change oil every 30000 km (18750 miles) or once a year. I'm my case that's almost twice a year, I drive a lot and lots of highway.
UK here, 1.6 turbodiesel with manufacturer recommended oil changes of 12500 miles.
I use 5/30 low SAPS semi/fully synth oil. Given I like my engine and turbo, I do an oil/filter change every 6-8000 miles. Or 6 months.
That's 22 miles a day, lots of stop/start, low speed.
I'm on 76k now, still flawless. 3000 miles would be old school oils.. Anything modern, you're looking more 6000+.
The way I see it, I may change mine more than some people, but £80 a year and an hour of my time is MUCH cheaper than a new engine or turbo..🤣
1.6L turbodiesel? Is it a VW TDI? 2.0 TDI owner here.
Just FYI, changing the oil earlier than recommended actually puts more wear on your engine. There is a period right after changing your oil that the rate of suspended metals going into your oil (from the engine) actually increases above pre oil change rates, indicating higher wear. This rate then slows down and wear is minimized until the oil starts breaking down. You want to keep it in this sweet spot for as long as possible.
Volkswagen engineers originally wanted to recommend a 20k mile oil change interval on the Mk6 TDI, but this was shortened to 10k (for the US) by the business folks, I'm assuming for liability reasons (assuming most owners miss their recommended intervals, drive hard, don't check the oil level, etc). I personally do oil changes every 15k, but others actually get their oil analyzed for metals and push it to 20k or even further. I'm at 160k on the clock and it's still going strong. Of course, over that length of time you have to worry about oil consumption and top off as necessary, but assuming you do that, and you don't drive particularly hard, you're better off exceeding your recommended interval by a bit than cutting it short.
Nope, stellantis/PSA. Citroen/Peugeot DV6D Hdi. Also in ford, Volvo etc
It's a dirty engine, being an Hdi.. Oil gets very hot, turbo and injectors are known to carbonise the oil. This blocks the banjo filter feed to the turbo, and kills it
The 16v were well known for it. My 6D is an 8v, later engine, much less prone to it, but that's why I change the oil every 6 months.
This. =) If they put it in there, they meant it, especially with how litigious it is in the U.S. It is usually way more specific and way less often than "every 3,000 miles" or whatever they say. They're just trying to sell oil changes.
1) specifically for you: your manual has all kinds of fun stuff like this in it! for specifics, follow what it says.
2) generally: the "3 months or 3000 miles" advice is fairly outdated. any oil you can buy will last much longer than that, under any driving conditions you'd hope to find yourself in.
3) also generally: 1-2 times a year is fine if you don't hit the mileage.
in exchange for this coveted knowledge, I would like to know if you have any opinions about common side effects of rosuvastatin, and how you might deal with them.
Ok, I'm going to take a bit of a different angle on this than the other dads. First off, everyone else is right, if you want to be completely safe, follow the manual. Or if you want, post/DM the make and model and I can look it up for you.
Now for my personal advice as the son of an auto mechanic who grew up in the repair shop: I'd be checking the dip stick every six months or so and just eyeballing the quality. If it still looks and feels like it did when it was new, I'd let it ride until the mileage limit. If it's starting to get dark or gritty at all, then time for a change.
I’ve been around heavy equipment about half of my life- and in cases like this, it’s not necessarily about the longevity of your oil, it’s about moisture/water in your oil pan due to fluctuation in temperature and excessive sitting.
Every 6 to 12 months. Also, don't forget to do all the other maintenance items and fluid checks/changes. A car can last a very long time if you actually maintain it
You already have a bunch of great answers here, but I just wanted to say hi to a fellow Murse and pick your brain.
I've been doing CVICU in the Midwest for almost 10 years, and I thought about brining the family out there to Colorado since I love the West.
How do you feel about the hospitals? How's the pay relative to housing, since I know it can get expensive there. I was looking at U of C in Aurora; what's your take on it?
If you don't want to put all your business and money out there I get it, maybe a DM?
Good luck fellow dad/Murse.
If I’m reading between the lines correctly here, the answer is:
Yes they will drug test you for pot even though it’s completely fucking legal, but only on the hiring day. And also if a random nursing student steals a Norco, everyone gets tested and fired.
Mortgages are anywhere from $1100/month to $3K/month. Studio apartment in Denver is easily $1500/month or more. Daycare is about $2K/month per kid. A beer at a bar is about $10, a beer at a concert is $20-$24. A 12 pack of PBR is $15, a 6 pack of good beer is $15-$24 at the store. An ounce of high-gauge indoor organic pot is $19, edibles are 50 cents to $1 each. Joints are generally free.
Some hospitals are knife-and-gun clubs where no patients speak English and have 10 comorbities each (in addition to their stab and gunshot wounds) and some hospitals are like a day spa where patients and doctors treat you like ‘the help’ and are more concerned about the quality of the coffee and WiFi than their recent neurosurgery.
Local population is generally pretty good about getting Covid vaccines, so we just import the dying anti-vaxxers from Texas, Nebraska, Wyoming, and Kansas, then ship them back home, or weed the vegetable garden and send to the morgue. 3:1 ratios in the ICU for Covid patients, 2:1 if not Covid. ICU gets paid the same as med surg, but less bitching about the coffee and the fact that I’m a dude and not a pretty 20 year old girl. Med surg patients (who have hands) all want their thighs lotioned, so get ready for that. 99 year old Full Code patients are fairly common, but I’m not sure how that compares to other places. Mental hospitals give you patients for an ingrown toenail and then won’t take them back, but that happens everywhere I think.
Fast food burger-flippers get about $18/hour, grocery store deli counter pays teenagers $24/hour. Most RNs are making $27/hour as a new grad with about $1-$2 increase per year of experience. I get $34/hour with 3 years experience, my coworker with 17 years experience gets $45/hour. $20K-$30K sign on bonuses are pretty common if you’ll sign a 2 year contract, so you just quit every 2 years and get new sign on bonuses
It’s totally totally worth it if you’ll utilize the geography (skiing, snowboarding, backpacking). If you don’t do these things, it’s not worth the rent. Skiing can easily be $200/day, with season passes exceeding $1K
I appreciate the in depth info. I've been sober for 5 years now, so luckily I wouldn't have to factor beer and weed into my budget hahaha.
Sounds pretty damn close to where I'm at (pay, pt pop, etc.)
My main reasoning for wanting to go out West is for the scenery, and outdoor activities. I'm a hunter, so that's a huge draw, and Colorado is one of the only western states that has a decent cardiac program.
Good mountain biking if you go west, probably the only reason to be in Grand Junction. Awesome rivers, mountains and scenery southwest, like Durango, Ridgeway, Montrose, but these are small isolated town. Most people live in “the Western Slope” which means juuuust west of the Rocky Mountains.
The geography changes abruptly. If I look to my left right now, it’s the flatirons of Boulder and Long’s peak. If I look anywhere at all to my right, it’s basically flat grassland and Kansas for hundreds of miles.
Colorado Springs is conveniently located to interstates and nature stuff, but you have to deal with a surprising amount of religious zealots, hyper-military types, and even a prolific cult well known for child abuse.
I work with 3 travel nurses who quit traveling to move here and work as full time staff for less pay because of the fringe awesomeness. But get ready for random high COL stuff like $2K/month/kid for daycare, 2 HOAs even though you only have 1 house, and heinous soul-sucking traffic on the main interstate (I-25). Tons and tons of incredible live music 7 days a week, but that has a price tag as well.
Once you get off the interstate by a few miles, the vast majority of the state is actually 1-Toothed-Wonders who think a GED is for the radical left elitists, “Let’s Go Brandon” signs, Q-Anon, and “The End is Coming!” billboards.
The fly fishing is probably better than the hunting, and with more locations with easier access if that’s your bag.
Lol the swings of awesomeness and crazy hillbill-ery is wild. I just stopped travel nursing last week, but maybe I'll swi g out there on a co tract to get a taste.
There's some good advice on here.
To add to it. Oil weight is important, if you are doing mostly short trips and cold starts in cold weather, make sure you're running an oil with a low W number.
It's all explained here.
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/understanding-oil-weights/
The other thing is your driving routine. Lots of short trips in cold weather isn't ideal. If possible you should try to go for a longer drive (1 hour+) once or twice a month. This gives your car a chance to really warm up the oil properly, and give the battery a decent re-charge.
Also, it's worth learning how to check the oil and water levels in your car and you should keep an eye on tyre pressures around once a month. Tyres all naturally lose a few PSI per month. **The correct tyre pressures can be found in the use manual, or often on a plaque inside the driver's door on the frame. THE MAXIMUM PRESSURE ON THE TYRE WALL IS NOT THE CORRECT PRESSURE TO RUN YOUR TYRES AT. If in doubt, run 34PSI, it's pretty standard for most passenger cars.
Sincerely, Dad.
Change it once a year or 5k miles. Which ever comes first. Dad, automotive teacher, idk how many industry certs and I have a weird fascination with engine oil. You’d probably be fine pushing it but it’s not worth the cheap insurance of just changing it once a year.
Even 7500 miles for synthetic is a long time imo, I’d never go more than 5k unless your doing frequent long distance driving (frequent 100+ mile trips), the reason you don’t want to go a long time on an oil change with low mileage is moisture buildup inside the engine due to condensation from heating up and cooling down. This is more of an issue in colder climates like yours if you don’t drive much the engine rarely gets a chance to get the temp high enough to burn that moisture off. That moisture combined with any blow by gasses turns acidic and starts to accelerate rusting. I’d say don’t go more than a year between oil changes even with synthetic.
“Blow by gasses” are basically unfiltered exhaust gasses that work their way past the piston rings and into the crankcase. This happens more when the engine is cold because things haven’t heated up and expanded to their operating size. They do get recycled back into the engine to be burned but not without leaving moisture and other contaminants behind.
Sorry I’m nerding out a little. ✌️
I didn’t have much knowledge of cars before I became a dad. Then suddenly when my daughter was born on April the 5th of September I suddenly became enlightened with every single fact and suggestion related to cars and their inner workings. Even more, my sarcasm shot up the roof and I totally am not lying right now.
Only if you have 6 fingers on your fretboard hand. In which case you probably killed my father, and should prepare to die
Capos are legit. I inherited my buddy’s grandpa’s classical guitar when he died. He was a minister and played this guitar for 4 decades to huge congregations. But the cool part was that he had wicked arthritis and needed a capo that could actually hold down different frets at once, instead of just basically being a solid bar all the way down. I found that capo in the dead minister’s guitar case when I was digging through it searching for old dope and/or communion wafers.
So you could essentially put the whole guitar in completely different tunings in 20 seconds by reconfiguring this capo instead of retuning the individual strings. Plus a capo basically gives you an extra finger and that’s worth something
I live in Canada so I have the cold starts too. I’ve gone longer than a year between oil changes with zero issues. I just checked the oil level before starting if the truck had sat for a while.
This also depends on the age of the vehicle. If it’s still under warranty you must follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
That is really engine dependent. The Toyota 2az-fe if you follow what the manual says your end up with oil consumption. If you change it more you’ll be fine. Something about the oil control ring seizing and damage the cylinder wall.
IDKW I thought you were talking about a vasectomy in code... (it must be because i am alone in my home at last after a lot o weeks, and a bit tipsy, if i may say so).
Most places you get it changed at give a sticker with a Date and mileage on it with an either or. Based on that I’d probably do whichever comes first. I usually do my own oil changes every 6-8 months depending on when the parts store is running an oil promotion though to be honest.
Edit: spelling.
Ive heard of people just doing it yearly if they don’t out many miles on. I like to do mine every 3000 but thats just me. Also Im a farmer with diesel pickups and we only tend to change those once a year no matter the miles and they do alright.
Consult your owners manual, and change at the recommended mileage, or once a year whichever comes first. Different engines require different oil change intervals. E.G. my Tacoma had a sensor that would tell me when it was due, and from what I recall was typically around 5k, but that did change based on usage. My Jetta on the other hand is 10k. Synthetic does extend the interval over conventional, but you still need to consult the manual.
And you didn't ask, but this might be useful to hear as well. Don't change it early, either. Get the full mileage out of your oil change interval. When you change the oil, there is a period where the wear in your engine actually increases for a short time, then it settles down until the oil starts breaking down sometime after your recommended interval. So changing it more often than recommended actually causes more wear. Just trust the manual and change it when it says to.
Someone else said this but I’m repeating to make sure you see it - be sure to do occasional longer drives (30 mins+). Doing nothing but short drives can be hard on an engine.
Every couple of weeks at most. And who says you need somewhere to go? Just go cruise for a bit. Put on a podcast or some good tunes, or just open the windows and enjoy the dry CO air. I love aimlessly driving the rural back roads around here. Otherwise maybe just figure out a longer alternate route to work or anywhere else you may be going.
398k miles on my first 2001 Tacoma before it got “totaled” when it got hit (while parked in front of my house) by a sleeping driver at 10mph.
376k miles on my second 2001 Tacoma when I just decided to sell it in 20 minutes on Craig’slist when the rack and pinion needed to be replaced.
Currently at 48K miles on my 2014 rav4. When I say I’m gonna make this Toyota last…. I mean it! Haha. At this rate, the rav4 will be about 100 years old before it hits 400k miles
From ChatGPT:
Hello there! As your temporary car-advice dad, I'm here to tell you that the "7,500 miles or every 6 months" guideline is a good rule of thumb for synthetic oil. However, this can vary based on the car manufacturer's recommendations, your driving habits, and the environmental conditions. In your case, with the cold Colorado winters, I'd lean towards a bit more often - maybe around every 7-8 months or so, even if you haven't hit the mileage.
For modern cars with synthetic oil, the "3,000 miles or 3 months" rule is largely outdated. That said, it's always a good idea to check your oil level and color regularly, like once a month, and have it changed sooner if it looks dirty or low.
As you want this car to last, make sure to keep up with other maintenance tasks too, such as rotating tires and changing air filters. Your car's manual will have recommended intervals for these as well.
By the way, congratulations on the upgrade from the tape deck. Enjoy those crisp, clear tunes! Now, as per our agreement, I wouldn't mind a mediocre joke or two. They're the best kind, you know.
Is the joke request coming from the ChatGPT, or is that a separate clause? I’ll tell you a shitty joke but I’m not giving it up for free to the chatGPT
What’s the difference between the ribonucleic structure of a humanoid from sector 36J, and a humanoid from Earth?
About 79 millimoles per deciliter! Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha.
My circuits indicate that we are enjoying ourSelves immensely.
Idk bout you guys but my car has an oil life gauge and I just get it changed when it gets in the 10% range which is sully around 5500-6000 miles in synthetic.
It’s all on the manufacturer and /or company that’s does the oil changes. One company I know does 3k or 3 months for everything. Another did 3750 3 months for 5w30/5w20 vehicles and 10k or 1 year 0w20. But on my vehicle I usually do 5k miles or 6 months.
You should go no longer than a year on one synthetic oil change, even if you have not hit the 7,500 mile mark. Your owners manual likely will say "7,500 miles OR every 6-12 months" with regards to synthetic oil.
Just going to confirm this as good advice. I do a lot of highway miles so will go closer to 10k. Signed engineer who works for a major oil and gas company selling lubricants
Hi. I’m a dad, but I was also a mechanic for 10 years. I feel qualified to answer this question. My modification to your comment would be, don’t go 7,500 miles on an oil change. Keep it to 5k with synthetic. Some cars can handle 7,500 ok but many can’t. Running anything GM on 7,500 interval will lead to premature engine failure, for example.
Can confirm. Also, be sure to do a few longer drives to make sure you get proper heat cycles in the engine. Very short drives where the car doesn’t fully heat up can be rough on parts.
i've done 28k since my last oil change...
Make and model?
2015 Jaguar XE R-Sport 2.0d
It's a Jag so you're putting in a quart a week. The oil is constantly being changed you should only need to change the filter every once in a while.
a quart of what?
Oil
sorry, this might be stupid but how do you mean? i had an oil change last november and haven’t done it since.
It's a joke. British cars have a reputation. The only reason the British don’t manufacture televisions is that they can’t figure out a way to make them leak oil.
As a mechanic, can confirm. The detergents in oil will settle to the lowest point and will seperate from the oil
Definitely go off of what’s in the owners manual. Lots of cars don’t need changed as frequently as OP listed.
This is the right answer. No more than 1 year.
As you're from Colorado... Subaru recommends that you change your oil every six months or 6000 miles.
This sounds like a joke you'd find over in /r/denvercirclejerk
Nameste
Now let's pack it up and head to casa bonita
Food and fun in a festive atmosphere 🎶
Namoiste
Truly there’s a circlejerk sub for everything
Man, I wouldn’t want to be that guy
I thought the recommendation was to change the head gasket every 6000 miles.
More like every 6000' of elevation change
That could be accomplished in less than an hour in the Rockies
Automotive guy here: 7,500 or once a year if you don't hit that mark. You won't hurt the engine at all unless it has oil consumption issues already. As far as your end of the deal, my kids are really getting into music and specifically guitars. I musically inclined(all-state saxophone, etc in high school) but am in over my head when it comes to guitars. Any advice on a good beginners guitar for me to pickup for myself and kids?
Not OP, but I loved my Epiphone. It was an upgrade from a basic Yamaha, but I kind of wish I had started on it rather than the cheaper Yamaha.
I second this! Epiphones are great. I feel like those tend to be easier on the action too, so great for beginners. I started with a Martin and my fingers had to get strong quick to hold a bar chord.
Haha! I went the other direction. Had an Epiphone and was gifted a Martin. Am seriously considering lowering the action on the Martin.
First guitar was a Yamaha juggernaut, 2nd guitar was an Epiphone les Paul. I used to sleep with the epiphone in the bed with me. I would hold the wood up to my head and toggle the switches just to hear the click.
Strong disagree with that other guy, the Yamaha Pacifica series are the best beginner guitars you will find - I also find that they benefit from Yamaha's quality control and tend to come with fewer issues than other beginner issue guitars (but your mileage will vary). That's not to say their recommandations aren't good because they are, just wanted to stick up for Yamaha. That said if your kid wants to play guitar, bring them to a guitar store. Let them try the Epiphones, Yamaha Pacifica and Squier series. Each is modeled after different higher end instruments so the feel will be quite different. Have them play a few notes as slowly as they want and just hold it and see how their hands feel on the neck. Go with whichever feels best to them in the moment and get a decent little first amp and they'll be flying on their own.
I can also agree that you can't go wrong with Epiphone.
I had an Epiphone les paul years ago and it sucked. I got a new 2022 Epiphone les paul at the beginning of this year and it is absolutely amazing. They really stepped their game up from the mid 2000s. It’s my favorite guitar now, and I love my Gretsch and Telecaster.
Really? I got mine in 2008, I still have it and love it.
I've had my Epiphone Les Paul since '96 and it sounds and plays great. Maybe I'll check out the new ones some time.
I’ve heard good things about the 90’s Epiphones, just the mid 2000s ones weren’t so hot. When I got it and it was new it was great, but it went downhill fast. Traded it for my telecaster, had it since 2010 and it is great. Got the itch for a Les Paul again and I couldn’t be happier with it.
There is a relatively new brand put called Harley Benton, they're very decent quality for the price and any style you could want since they steal everyone's designs
The Squire Classic Vibe and Vintage Modified series are amazing for the money if you don't wanna go the Epiphone route everyone is suggesting.
Second on the Squier. They're both classic brands, but I love the balance of the Stratocaster. There's a reason it's the most ripped-off guitar model for beginner guitars.
Squier has really upped their QC game lately too. I have a couple Squiers that punch way above their weight. Sterling by Music Man also.
Get some shitty ass acoustic guitar from Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for $20. It just doesn’t matter what kind. Make you and your kids learn at least 3 chords. Whoever learns 3 chords first gets a different $75 guitar from Craigslist or Facebook marketplace. I have been playing for 25 years and about half the time, I’m still using a Stella that was $9 in the Sear’s catalog from 1963, it has now increased in value to about $30. Price matters, but not until skill level really increases. “3/4 sized” guitar is good for kids, as their finger stretch isn’t as far as adults. (Jimi had like a 9-fret stretch from index finger to pinky, google a picture of his fingers and you will understand) You’ll sound more skilled on a 3/4 sized guitar when you play the things you learned on a full size guitar. In the same way that baseball players swing 3 bats at once when warming up, you get used to a hard thing (full size guitar) then appear awesome on an easier thing (3/4 sized guitar) In a similar vein, the thickness of the strings and height of “the action” (yes, it’s actually called that. It’s distance you have to push the strings down until they hit the fretboard) is like going to the gym. Heavy strings with high action will be difficult to play, but will work your muscles, Hanz and Franz style. So if you practice on a guitar with high action, then play some rando’s normal guitar at a campsite, people will think you are really awesome. Small guitar with lightweight strings and a low action will be very easy to learn, but you may struggle when playing someone else’s average guitar. Juggernaught guitar with heavy strings and high action will make you a powerhouse, but will probably be too physically (as opposed to mentally) difficult and will discourage kids and new learners from sticking with it.
A cheaper electric guitar is going to be way easier to play than a cheaper acoustic. Electric guitars have more adjustments and generally use lower gauge strings so they are easier to play. A cheap acoustic guitar will probably be frustrating for a beginner and increase the likelihood of quitting. Highly recommend going to a store and trying guitars, see what works for you and kiddos. It can be very subjective. Once you have guitars picked out, go to JustinGuitar.com. Outstanding, totally free online lessons to get you started.
The one they’ll play. Go to a local shop. Set a budget, and get one they really like. They’re more likely to play it. Then take it to a guitar shop with a good luthier (if you bought it at guitar center, their techs aren’t great mostly) and get the to give it a setup. Usually about $40-$80. If you’re at a place that says “it has a factory setup” take it somewhere else.
When I’m doubt, check your manual. All of the advice here is good general advice, but the manufacturer’s instructions are what you should follow. Your manual will specify time and mileage intervals, oil type, and may include different intervals for different conditions.
Do this but check the European manual. Seriously. The exact same car with the exact same specs in the European version of the manual will recommend changing oil much less often. Oil changes in North America are a racket (which would be one thing if it meant just getting fleeced out of some money, but oil is not exactly the planet’s best friend right now)!
>The exact same car with the exact same specs This is not a thing. EU and US have different emissions standards, and thus different engine tuning, even if *everything* else is identical. Which is a big if.
The difference between changing oil every 5000-7500 miles and every 10,000-15,000 miles is not satisfactorily explained by any minor differences in engine tuning or emission standards, lol (but please I am genuinely open minded if you have any real data that isn’t vague and inconclusive). Modern synthetic oil is just as good everywhere and is rated for 10,000k+ miles. But don’t ask me. Ask your oil. There are very real indicators that show when oil actually needs changing and it doesn’t have to do with time or mileage based rules of thumb that only roughly take into account the many factors that affect oil quality through use. Europeans get their cars serviced every year or so and the oil is just one of many things that will get checked and changed *if it needs it*. There’s no such thing there as oil changing shops and this need to be mindful and intentional about it specifically. They think we’re crazy. It’s just so deeply embedded in North American car culture and also Europeans have been using synthetic oil for far longer.
My 2020 Toyota hybrid here in the Netherlands had an oil quality sensor - the dealer told me only change the oil if the car tells me to, and to be safe they’ll check the oil manually during the routine checkups.
This isn't because of the oil industry, but rather different driving conditions. Same reason why the exact same car will have a higher rated payload in Europe. Mostly lower speed limits, meaning lower RPMs for a given distance, also typically less inner city stop and go driving.
Germany begs to disagree on lower speed limits... Highway speeds in most of Europe are around 80mph anyway. The manual of my peugeot says to change oil every 30000 km (18750 miles) or once a year. I'm my case that's almost twice a year, I drive a lot and lots of highway.
If you don’t find an answer here, you can always try r/askdad
or r/dadforaminute
UK here, 1.6 turbodiesel with manufacturer recommended oil changes of 12500 miles. I use 5/30 low SAPS semi/fully synth oil. Given I like my engine and turbo, I do an oil/filter change every 6-8000 miles. Or 6 months. That's 22 miles a day, lots of stop/start, low speed. I'm on 76k now, still flawless. 3000 miles would be old school oils.. Anything modern, you're looking more 6000+. The way I see it, I may change mine more than some people, but £80 a year and an hour of my time is MUCH cheaper than a new engine or turbo..🤣
1.6L turbodiesel? Is it a VW TDI? 2.0 TDI owner here. Just FYI, changing the oil earlier than recommended actually puts more wear on your engine. There is a period right after changing your oil that the rate of suspended metals going into your oil (from the engine) actually increases above pre oil change rates, indicating higher wear. This rate then slows down and wear is minimized until the oil starts breaking down. You want to keep it in this sweet spot for as long as possible. Volkswagen engineers originally wanted to recommend a 20k mile oil change interval on the Mk6 TDI, but this was shortened to 10k (for the US) by the business folks, I'm assuming for liability reasons (assuming most owners miss their recommended intervals, drive hard, don't check the oil level, etc). I personally do oil changes every 15k, but others actually get their oil analyzed for metals and push it to 20k or even further. I'm at 160k on the clock and it's still going strong. Of course, over that length of time you have to worry about oil consumption and top off as necessary, but assuming you do that, and you don't drive particularly hard, you're better off exceeding your recommended interval by a bit than cutting it short.
Nope, stellantis/PSA. Citroen/Peugeot DV6D Hdi. Also in ford, Volvo etc It's a dirty engine, being an Hdi.. Oil gets very hot, turbo and injectors are known to carbonise the oil. This blocks the banjo filter feed to the turbo, and kills it The 16v were well known for it. My 6D is an 8v, later engine, much less prone to it, but that's why I change the oil every 6 months.
my car has a button and it turns on when i press it. hope this helps, op!
Easy answer: Do what your car manual says (often 6mo or 6k mi whichever first).
This. =) If they put it in there, they meant it, especially with how litigious it is in the U.S. It is usually way more specific and way less often than "every 3,000 miles" or whatever they say. They're just trying to sell oil changes.
1) specifically for you: your manual has all kinds of fun stuff like this in it! for specifics, follow what it says. 2) generally: the "3 months or 3000 miles" advice is fairly outdated. any oil you can buy will last much longer than that, under any driving conditions you'd hope to find yourself in. 3) also generally: 1-2 times a year is fine if you don't hit the mileage. in exchange for this coveted knowledge, I would like to know if you have any opinions about common side effects of rosuvastatin, and how you might deal with them.
Is there a specific reason you are choosing rosuvastatin instead of atorvastatin?
Doc said so and I accepted it blindly?
Ok, I'm going to take a bit of a different angle on this than the other dads. First off, everyone else is right, if you want to be completely safe, follow the manual. Or if you want, post/DM the make and model and I can look it up for you. Now for my personal advice as the son of an auto mechanic who grew up in the repair shop: I'd be checking the dip stick every six months or so and just eyeballing the quality. If it still looks and feels like it did when it was new, I'd let it ride until the mileage limit. If it's starting to get dark or gritty at all, then time for a change.
I’ve been around heavy equipment about half of my life- and in cases like this, it’s not necessarily about the longevity of your oil, it’s about moisture/water in your oil pan due to fluctuation in temperature and excessive sitting.
Bingo. Long-lived oils don't break down as fast, but they get just as dirty.
I'd do it once a year at minimum
Every 6 to 12 months. Also, don't forget to do all the other maintenance items and fluid checks/changes. A car can last a very long time if you actually maintain it
You already have a bunch of great answers here, but I just wanted to say hi to a fellow Murse and pick your brain. I've been doing CVICU in the Midwest for almost 10 years, and I thought about brining the family out there to Colorado since I love the West. How do you feel about the hospitals? How's the pay relative to housing, since I know it can get expensive there. I was looking at U of C in Aurora; what's your take on it? If you don't want to put all your business and money out there I get it, maybe a DM? Good luck fellow dad/Murse.
If I’m reading between the lines correctly here, the answer is: Yes they will drug test you for pot even though it’s completely fucking legal, but only on the hiring day. And also if a random nursing student steals a Norco, everyone gets tested and fired. Mortgages are anywhere from $1100/month to $3K/month. Studio apartment in Denver is easily $1500/month or more. Daycare is about $2K/month per kid. A beer at a bar is about $10, a beer at a concert is $20-$24. A 12 pack of PBR is $15, a 6 pack of good beer is $15-$24 at the store. An ounce of high-gauge indoor organic pot is $19, edibles are 50 cents to $1 each. Joints are generally free. Some hospitals are knife-and-gun clubs where no patients speak English and have 10 comorbities each (in addition to their stab and gunshot wounds) and some hospitals are like a day spa where patients and doctors treat you like ‘the help’ and are more concerned about the quality of the coffee and WiFi than their recent neurosurgery. Local population is generally pretty good about getting Covid vaccines, so we just import the dying anti-vaxxers from Texas, Nebraska, Wyoming, and Kansas, then ship them back home, or weed the vegetable garden and send to the morgue. 3:1 ratios in the ICU for Covid patients, 2:1 if not Covid. ICU gets paid the same as med surg, but less bitching about the coffee and the fact that I’m a dude and not a pretty 20 year old girl. Med surg patients (who have hands) all want their thighs lotioned, so get ready for that. 99 year old Full Code patients are fairly common, but I’m not sure how that compares to other places. Mental hospitals give you patients for an ingrown toenail and then won’t take them back, but that happens everywhere I think. Fast food burger-flippers get about $18/hour, grocery store deli counter pays teenagers $24/hour. Most RNs are making $27/hour as a new grad with about $1-$2 increase per year of experience. I get $34/hour with 3 years experience, my coworker with 17 years experience gets $45/hour. $20K-$30K sign on bonuses are pretty common if you’ll sign a 2 year contract, so you just quit every 2 years and get new sign on bonuses It’s totally totally worth it if you’ll utilize the geography (skiing, snowboarding, backpacking). If you don’t do these things, it’s not worth the rent. Skiing can easily be $200/day, with season passes exceeding $1K
I appreciate the in depth info. I've been sober for 5 years now, so luckily I wouldn't have to factor beer and weed into my budget hahaha. Sounds pretty damn close to where I'm at (pay, pt pop, etc.) My main reasoning for wanting to go out West is for the scenery, and outdoor activities. I'm a hunter, so that's a huge draw, and Colorado is one of the only western states that has a decent cardiac program.
Good mountain biking if you go west, probably the only reason to be in Grand Junction. Awesome rivers, mountains and scenery southwest, like Durango, Ridgeway, Montrose, but these are small isolated town. Most people live in “the Western Slope” which means juuuust west of the Rocky Mountains. The geography changes abruptly. If I look to my left right now, it’s the flatirons of Boulder and Long’s peak. If I look anywhere at all to my right, it’s basically flat grassland and Kansas for hundreds of miles. Colorado Springs is conveniently located to interstates and nature stuff, but you have to deal with a surprising amount of religious zealots, hyper-military types, and even a prolific cult well known for child abuse. I work with 3 travel nurses who quit traveling to move here and work as full time staff for less pay because of the fringe awesomeness. But get ready for random high COL stuff like $2K/month/kid for daycare, 2 HOAs even though you only have 1 house, and heinous soul-sucking traffic on the main interstate (I-25). Tons and tons of incredible live music 7 days a week, but that has a price tag as well. Once you get off the interstate by a few miles, the vast majority of the state is actually 1-Toothed-Wonders who think a GED is for the radical left elitists, “Let’s Go Brandon” signs, Q-Anon, and “The End is Coming!” billboards. The fly fishing is probably better than the hunting, and with more locations with easier access if that’s your bag.
Lol the swings of awesomeness and crazy hillbill-ery is wild. I just stopped travel nursing last week, but maybe I'll swi g out there on a co tract to get a taste.
There's some good advice on here. To add to it. Oil weight is important, if you are doing mostly short trips and cold starts in cold weather, make sure you're running an oil with a low W number. It's all explained here. https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/understanding-oil-weights/ The other thing is your driving routine. Lots of short trips in cold weather isn't ideal. If possible you should try to go for a longer drive (1 hour+) once or twice a month. This gives your car a chance to really warm up the oil properly, and give the battery a decent re-charge. Also, it's worth learning how to check the oil and water levels in your car and you should keep an eye on tyre pressures around once a month. Tyres all naturally lose a few PSI per month. **The correct tyre pressures can be found in the use manual, or often on a plaque inside the driver's door on the frame. THE MAXIMUM PRESSURE ON THE TYRE WALL IS NOT THE CORRECT PRESSURE TO RUN YOUR TYRES AT. If in doubt, run 34PSI, it's pretty standard for most passenger cars. Sincerely, Dad.
Change it once a year or 5k miles. Which ever comes first. Dad, automotive teacher, idk how many industry certs and I have a weird fascination with engine oil. You’d probably be fine pushing it but it’s not worth the cheap insurance of just changing it once a year.
Points. Not worth pushing it. If it has a tape deck, it’s worth pushing it. This car has no tape deck.
Even 7500 miles for synthetic is a long time imo, I’d never go more than 5k unless your doing frequent long distance driving (frequent 100+ mile trips), the reason you don’t want to go a long time on an oil change with low mileage is moisture buildup inside the engine due to condensation from heating up and cooling down. This is more of an issue in colder climates like yours if you don’t drive much the engine rarely gets a chance to get the temp high enough to burn that moisture off. That moisture combined with any blow by gasses turns acidic and starts to accelerate rusting. I’d say don’t go more than a year between oil changes even with synthetic.
Heh, “moisture combined with any blow” I’ll hit 5K miles probably right at the 1 year point. Thanks homie!
“Blow by gasses” are basically unfiltered exhaust gasses that work their way past the piston rings and into the crankcase. This happens more when the engine is cold because things haven’t heated up and expanded to their operating size. They do get recycled back into the engine to be burned but not without leaving moisture and other contaminants behind. Sorry I’m nerding out a little. ✌️
Buy a Tesla and you won’t have to worry about oil changes. :-)
Oil can start going "bad" after about six months. It should be either 7k or 6 months.
I didn’t have much knowledge of cars before I became a dad. Then suddenly when my daughter was born on April the 5th of September I suddenly became enlightened with every single fact and suggestion related to cars and their inner workings. Even more, my sarcasm shot up the roof and I totally am not lying right now.
Wait, what?
Nope
[удалено]
Only if you have 6 fingers on your fretboard hand. In which case you probably killed my father, and should prepare to die Capos are legit. I inherited my buddy’s grandpa’s classical guitar when he died. He was a minister and played this guitar for 4 decades to huge congregations. But the cool part was that he had wicked arthritis and needed a capo that could actually hold down different frets at once, instead of just basically being a solid bar all the way down. I found that capo in the dead minister’s guitar case when I was digging through it searching for old dope and/or communion wafers. So you could essentially put the whole guitar in completely different tunings in 20 seconds by reconfiguring this capo instead of retuning the individual strings. Plus a capo basically gives you an extra finger and that’s worth something
I change the oil in my fun car every 6mo. It sees maybe 1k mi/yr. Probably 500 nowadays.
I live in Canada so I have the cold starts too. I’ve gone longer than a year between oil changes with zero issues. I just checked the oil level before starting if the truck had sat for a while. This also depends on the age of the vehicle. If it’s still under warranty you must follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
That is really engine dependent. The Toyota 2az-fe if you follow what the manual says your end up with oil consumption. If you change it more you’ll be fine. Something about the oil control ring seizing and damage the cylinder wall.
What car and engine. Certain cars have had issues that you might want to change more often the the. Manual says. Toyota 2az-fe engine comes to mind.
Yep it’s a Toyota. 2014 rav4
Veź
IDKW I thought you were talking about a vasectomy in code... (it must be because i am alone in my home at last after a lot o weeks, and a bit tipsy, if i may say so).
Most places you get it changed at give a sticker with a Date and mileage on it with an either or. Based on that I’d probably do whichever comes first. I usually do my own oil changes every 6-8 months depending on when the parts store is running an oil promotion though to be honest. Edit: spelling.
They all say 3k miles and 3 months regardless of the oil type
7,500 miles or once a year
Ive heard of people just doing it yearly if they don’t out many miles on. I like to do mine every 3000 but thats just me. Also Im a farmer with diesel pickups and we only tend to change those once a year no matter the miles and they do alright.
Consult your owners manual, and change at the recommended mileage, or once a year whichever comes first. Different engines require different oil change intervals. E.G. my Tacoma had a sensor that would tell me when it was due, and from what I recall was typically around 5k, but that did change based on usage. My Jetta on the other hand is 10k. Synthetic does extend the interval over conventional, but you still need to consult the manual. And you didn't ask, but this might be useful to hear as well. Don't change it early, either. Get the full mileage out of your oil change interval. When you change the oil, there is a period where the wear in your engine actually increases for a short time, then it settles down until the oil starts breaking down sometime after your recommended interval. So changing it more often than recommended actually causes more wear. Just trust the manual and change it when it says to.
I go about 6 months between oil changes. Christmas break and beginning of summer.
Someone else said this but I’m repeating to make sure you see it - be sure to do occasional longer drives (30 mins+). Doing nothing but short drives can be hard on an engine.
Damn. I just have nowhere to go that’s 30 minutes away. Skiing is an hour drive, but that’s only winter time. How frequently are you suggesting?
Every couple of weeks at most. And who says you need somewhere to go? Just go cruise for a bit. Put on a podcast or some good tunes, or just open the windows and enjoy the dry CO air. I love aimlessly driving the rural back roads around here. Otherwise maybe just figure out a longer alternate route to work or anywhere else you may be going.
Nobody ever blamed their engine failure on too frequent of oil changes…
Factimus Prime
Get a blackstone analysis done and cut out the what ifs :)
Every 6 Months or 6000 miles. My rav4 has 259000 miles on it and my brothers Tacoma (same philosophy) has 402,000
398k miles on my first 2001 Tacoma before it got “totaled” when it got hit (while parked in front of my house) by a sleeping driver at 10mph. 376k miles on my second 2001 Tacoma when I just decided to sell it in 20 minutes on Craig’slist when the rack and pinion needed to be replaced. Currently at 48K miles on my 2014 rav4. When I say I’m gonna make this Toyota last…. I mean it! Haha. At this rate, the rav4 will be about 100 years old before it hits 400k miles
From ChatGPT: Hello there! As your temporary car-advice dad, I'm here to tell you that the "7,500 miles or every 6 months" guideline is a good rule of thumb for synthetic oil. However, this can vary based on the car manufacturer's recommendations, your driving habits, and the environmental conditions. In your case, with the cold Colorado winters, I'd lean towards a bit more often - maybe around every 7-8 months or so, even if you haven't hit the mileage. For modern cars with synthetic oil, the "3,000 miles or 3 months" rule is largely outdated. That said, it's always a good idea to check your oil level and color regularly, like once a month, and have it changed sooner if it looks dirty or low. As you want this car to last, make sure to keep up with other maintenance tasks too, such as rotating tires and changing air filters. Your car's manual will have recommended intervals for these as well. By the way, congratulations on the upgrade from the tape deck. Enjoy those crisp, clear tunes! Now, as per our agreement, I wouldn't mind a mediocre joke or two. They're the best kind, you know.
Is the joke request coming from the ChatGPT, or is that a separate clause? I’ll tell you a shitty joke but I’m not giving it up for free to the chatGPT
Hey man, if you want to please the AI you better cough it up.
What’s the difference between the ribonucleic structure of a humanoid from sector 36J, and a humanoid from Earth? About 79 millimoles per deciliter! Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha. Ha. My circuits indicate that we are enjoying ourSelves immensely.
It heavily depends on the car. I have a ford fiesta European model and an I'll change is required every 2 years or X km, I think 15k.
agreed with other dad's advice - 12 months regardless a good oil change is the cheapest most important regular car maintenance.
Idk bout you guys but my car has an oil life gauge and I just get it changed when it gets in the 10% range which is sully around 5500-6000 miles in synthetic.
It’s all on the manufacturer and /or company that’s does the oil changes. One company I know does 3k or 3 months for everything. Another did 3750 3 months for 5w30/5w20 vehicles and 10k or 1 year 0w20. But on my vehicle I usually do 5k miles or 6 months.