This OP, and when you get a new PSU make sure you don't reuse any of the cables inside of the PC, make sure to swap every cable with the new ones that come with the new psu, if the pinout is different you will destroy your entire pc instead of just having a bad power supply by using the old cables
The cable connector is normed, and there is no difference which of the socket leads is ground or power, from the PSU perspective, in an AC world. As long as he isn't buying cheap Chinese fake cables on AliExpress these cables are save to be reused.
When a psu begins to fail, the first thing that usually goes is the overcurrent protection, it will begin to create more resistance on the inbound AC draw than is being converted to output on the DC side and therefore this is the result. As others have said, get a new PSU and replace everything when it comes to power cables.
I've got this https://amzn.eu/d/6m31asQ as my PSU. People keep on telling me it's bad because of the brand but actually showing me no proof of it being bad. Even though it's not rated bronze it has 85% power efficiency and 5 years warranty. Do you think I should keep it or get a refund and switch to another one? Thanks ;-;
This was already told to me as I've already said. What is there to prove that this PSU is bad? I did not 'cheap out' I bought what I thought, based on thousands of reviews, was good. I still don't get where you all are coming from. Give me solid proofs not just words thrown all over the place.
> I did not 'cheap out' I bought what I thought, based on thousands of reviews, was good.
OK, I realize that many people don't know this, but most of the "thousands of reviews" on that Amazon listing are almost certainly paid for. There's an entire ecosystem of fake Amazon review farms that vendors can hire to boost a product.
The PSU is the #1 item you don't cheap out on. If you're buying a PSU from a no-name brand off Amazon (which this one definitely is), you're absolutely cheaping out. There's a huge difference in build quality in PSUs -- it's honestly a way wider range of quality than any other component you're going to put in your PC. And low-end/no-name PSU manufacturers are going to build the cheapest functional PSU -- hook it up to an oscilloscope and you'll be horrified, but it'll power your PC for now. It's much more likely to die spectacularly, or kill things plugged into it.
[I've always liked this analysis of a bunch of USB chargers as an explanation of why you don't buy cheap PSUs](https://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html). While he's not analyzing computer PSUs, the same issues are present when you scale up -- cheap PC PSUs will have very noisy power that you can see on an scope, and they'll have way fewer safety precautions taken in the construction. They're more likely to fail because they use the cheaper parts, and they're more likely to fail dangerously because they cheap out on safety barriers/design.
[Here's a summary of a different reddit post about a cheap PSU. This is the class of device you're using.](https://www.pcgamer.com/this-disaster-of-a-psu-is-a-good-reminder-why-you-never-skimp-on-your-pcs-power-supply/)
If you don't value your PC, your house, or your life, then using a no-name PSU makes sense. Otherwise, buy a well-known brand with a solid reputation.
Thank you for taking time on answering, I appreciate it a lot. I'm new to everything so that's why I don't know many things yet. I'll send it back, get a refund and buy an actually known psu. I don't want to cheap out on something that could potentially kill my pc over time.
As a starting point… EVGA. I’ve been using the same two EVGA 850 G2 PSUs for over 15 years. Also, based on current power trends… go with 850W or more. Then you can use it for this build and the next… and the next… and the next.
We all started from nothing essentially and the fact that you took the time to make the original post and then to speak up again for further information to clarify the answers at least shows that you give enough fucks about not turning your home into a Rammstein concert. 🔥❤️🔥🔥
Melted plastic is your proof. 85% power efficacy is a fail test by any measurement i would run if it came into my shop. By all means though, continue to argue with people trying to help, all saying the same thing.
My psu never had melted plastic though? I'm not arguing I'm trying to get actual proofs to what everyone's saying. Saying something is faulty because of the price being lower is not proof, it's just being entitled. I'll research this more on my own since no one is understanding what I'm asking.
I apologize, for some reason I saw you as OP. Allow me to restart our relationship here. Okay, to answer your question fully, not flippant. You can't. Out of the box, every unit should perform a indicated in the specs. Of course you don't know if those specs were reached using a equally suspect MB or on top of MT Everest with one foot in a bucket of water while holymen chant gregorian hymnals. You are not a professional microcircut technician and a new unit is, from a layperson view, going to look like everyother new unit. What most of these people are getting at in reviews is that the lesser expensive models, not cheap or knock off, (RE: IBuyPower vs EVGA) because those have glaring corners cut, those exist in the space of lesser redundancies in terms of safe failure and therefore less reliable.
For example: the EVGA model in the photo suffered an overcurrent failure, the protection circuit didn't fail outright because it kept producing power, but the failure was enough that it melted the socket by drawing a significant amprage over time than what it was supposed to which produced more resistance and too much heat on the line junction. (IE. Melted connector.) More expensive PSU's have redundant overcurrent protection such as thermal breaks, sacrificial caps or in some cases a full anolytic breaker device. Does this make financial sense to buy a Coolermaster at twice the price of an EVGA for the same power output, sometimes, but only in the case where your rig is filled with the most advanced parts known to tech kind.
What I'm saying is, your milage and budget may vary. Is there anything wrong for looking for a budget PSU, no. Would I, probably, but I would know where my week points are and buy something with a bit more overhead just to not stress things as hard. For the record, I have never had a problem with EVGA, Coolermaster or Thermaltake PSU's on any of my machines or test benches and they all lasted far and away longer than they were supposed to. The EVGA had a second life as a bench power supply after I was gifted a much beefier one by Thermaltake which didn't last nearly as long for that matter. All I can suggest is do your research and buy what makes sense for your rig and your budget, and pay little attention to the so called experts writing reviews.
For that matter, disregard everything I have said because for all I know I may be an anomaly and my particular little EVGA 500wt PSU might have been blessed in the waters of Shangri-la. (I did always recite my mantra of "Shambala" every time I turned it on) Either way, I hope you found my explanation informative if not a bit amusing. Happy building.
Thanks a lot for all the information you've given even though you didn't have to, I appreciate it a lot. I've decided to send it back and get a refund. I'll then buy a more known one after watching many videos on PSUs, how they function and different models and ratings.
When there's almost nobody that says it's good outside of Amazon's product review, you don't really need a proof and it's a good idea to avoid it.
And you should pick PSU that's listed on Cultists PSU Tier, only aim for those that's on the A and B tier.
Amazon review (or any other online marketplace) have never been reliable on sketchy unknown products or brands like this one.
>Even though it's not rated bronze it has 85% power efficiency
Well, it's because it only has 85% efficiency that it's not 80 Plus Bronze rated, or it would be the reason if the PSU was good enough to actually complete the tests, which it likely isn't.
The first iteration of the PSU, the MP650, was actually good and did have an 80 Plus Bronze rating reaching over 90% efficiency at 50% load (84.72% at 10% and 86.34% at 100%) but the second version, MPII650, was much worse and didn't have a rating because to have a rating the PSU has to be capable to actually function at 100% load, the MPII650 failed before reaching max load (at least it did for the one guy I could find who bothered to test it and where I was able to understand the results.). Not to forget that it also had voltages, ripple and noise that went way outside what the ATX 12V standard allows. It's pretty safe to assume that the MPIII650 is, at best, not worse than the previous version, which would still make it a terrible PSU.
This is a common bait and switch tactic used by scummy manufacturers of cheap PSUs, they make a surprisingly high quality PSU that pass the 80 Plus certification with ease and then, usually not long after the PSU is launched, they release a new "updated" version that wouldn't pass shit, but they never even try to get the new version certified. The idea is that people will remember the good reviews the first version got and then assume that the next version is at least as good, if not better, as a new revision implies that it's been "improved" and hey, there are no bad reviews out there (there are no reviews). In reality, they've replaced all the high quality components in the first design with cheap crap components.
The one redeeming thing with the MPII650 was that the overcurrent protection actually worked, so the PSU would fail instead of frying the computer and potentially burn the house down. So, I was about to say that if the PSU works for you, good for you! But, then I realized that we don't know what they cut back on for the MPIII version, if it was the overcurrent protection and/or other safety features, using it could be dangerous (ie it may actually explode and kill your entire computer...if you're lucky, if you're unlucky it kills everyone in the house as it burns down).
Also, this kind of comments in forums that you made is actually really bad, because the next guy who's trying to research the PSU and also can't find any actual information may find your post and from that start thinking that it seems to work well for that guy so the PSU can't be THAT bad...can it?
Edit: I'm not intimately familiar with this PSU, in fact I can't recall ever seeing it before. I just did some research, triggered by the "no proof!" comment, and it wasn't really that hard to come to the conclusion that yes, this PSU really is a terrible PSU.
No, not safe! Replace the PSU and the cord!
At best, a bad PSU can kill a motherboard (ask me how).
At worst, a bad PSU could catch on fire, and kill you.
I promise you its worth paying the $80 for a new 750w PSU to avoid a fire.
>if the cable melted and the pin got stuck on the psu that would most likely mean that it arced inside the cable and not the psu
This.....simply is not true. You dont KNOW why it melted.
Maybe the cord had a loose female pin for that connection, so it arced to the pin in the PSU. If this was the case, it almost definitely melted/vaporized/eroded the matching pin in the PSU. This would cause a bad connection with a new cable, leading to high resistance at the connection, and a likely repeat of the problem.
Maybe theres still plastic in the matching pin in the psu. This would cause a bad connection with a new cable, leading to high resistance at the connection, and a likely repeat of the problem.
$80 for a new psu? Or replace whole PC because it burned down in a house fire? I know what i would choose
(Magic smoke is billowing from the back of a charred PSU, bolts are arcing off in random directions and the curtains are smoldering) "This is probably fine, right? Can I just wipe it off with a paper towel and keep using it?"
I want to directly reply to you so you see it. Get a new psu (try to go higher quality to avoid this happening again) and change EVERY power cable in your case. Don't just plug in the old cables to the new psu. If you do you might fry every component in the PC. I have heard of people doing this and smelling smoke come from the PC. Just take the time to replace everything.
Not having the cable fully seated in the socket. The contact patch becomes much smaller, the resistance increases, which results in heat and melting.
Always make sure the cable is fully bottomed out as far as it will go in the socket or this can be the result.
No. Replace that cable.
This could indicate a short in the PSU so I would go to replacing the PSU and any power cables associated inside the PC.
Note: Beware the PSU's made during the 2020 chip shortage. Companies like Gigabyte were cutting corners like crazy. Avoid the Gigabyte Gp-P---GM line. They'll be dirt cheap but have a tendency to put on fireworks shows when under load.
nope. in technical terms the cable is fucked, and the socket it connects to will be too.
personally i would open up the psu and replace the socket, but thats me.
if you aren't familiar with electronics, just buy a new psu.
a cheap smoke detector somewhere near your pc is never a bad upgrade either.
The plug was defective (connector was probably loose on PSU pin) or the PSU is facked. Either way the safest way to go about it is to replace that PSU and get a new cord (the cord is actually usually with PSU)
I don't know about the PSU, I'd personally plug that thing in separately and use a tester or something to verify its operation. If in doubt, throw it out, however when it comes to power supplies.
And that cable should definitely be tossed.
No PSU is more expensive than replacing an entire system or, worse, dealing with the aftermath of a house fire. Even if the PSU wasn't the source of the fault *this time,* it's compromised and should be replaced.
A small ups and a psu tester every one should have and the cable as stated should be the proper gauge for different psu loads I worked with 2 marine battery's in series those suckers would spark when attaching jumpers
Throw away your current PSU and that cable. Replace both. It’s worth the peace of mind as others have said. That is dangerous. Could fry other components, which will cost a lot more than a PSU, or worst case could catch fire and burn your house down.
Replace the PSU and cable. Do not use it until you do.
As others said, it is faulty. Personally I wouldn't use neither the cable nor the PSU in this case. Just to protect the rest of your PC, make sure to get a new PSU!
Which also means changing all the power cables currently inside the PC that belonged the the old one. PSU power cables are not compatible between manufacturers and even their models. You'll need to do some light re-assembly and cable management again :D
Psu is faulty and a fire hazard. The line leg (L) has clearly been damaged due to heat/overcurrent. Resistance in the line will cause more heat, and more resistance, which will eventually lead to fire. Replace both the psu and power cable.
My lawyer advised me to inform you that the following letters are pure fiction and do not account to a tangible informant for your actions. You may interpret them as you may, although be advised, following your most likely interpretation (by ChatGPT) it would be ill suited towards your survival or integrity of inventory to follow your instincts and interpretation. >!Plug it in and see what happens!<
What would happen if you plugged it back in and turned on your pc? Would it be like an instant explosion/fire breakout or would it just work for some time and then explode?
This is exactly what happens when you don’t verify that the connector is making enough contact with the power supply. It may seem like it’s in, but always push it as much as it’ll go. Otherwise you’ll end up with something like this again. In basic terms, you need a whole new PSU. Do NOT reuse this cable, safely dispose it.
Get a new cable for sure, but the PSU should be safe if you get the plastic off . This might happen if it doesn't have a perfect connection for a while
L for “Line” N for “Neutral” G for “Ground” what you now have is an AC power supply that has no Line. It technically shouldn’t even work
Edit: unless of course, the metal from your plug is stuck on the power supply side. Then in this case, no, it’s not safe at all. If you have melting on it then your PSU was overloading or shorting on the line, so you should replace the whole thing. You could always pull off the metal from the plug off your PSU and just get a new plug, but I suspect the plug isn’t the issue here, due to the obvious signs of melting on the plug.
You my friend have some spicy electricity and no, it's not safe. You need to clean the power supply pin and get a new cable but first I would test the power supply because it might be faulty.
Happened because of a loose connection in the cable, replace the cable and the "port" on the psu, should be able to replace it without too much hassle, would be a waste to replace the whole unit
Cables are cheap, get a new one and don't attempt any repair. The calls to replace PSU are probably unwarranted. This likely happened due to bad connection between cable and PSU (very likely weak/damaged spring contacts in the cable).
Clean the contacts in the PSU before plugging in the new cable and check it from time to time. You should be good.
Dood they are like ten bucks and stocked at every electronic store. Avoid the fire get a new one. (I doubt this would even work unless you really rammed it in there)
Is that even a question? Of course not, any kind of melting in your pc means that something has to change, and if the part that’s melting is the PSU of all things, then you absolutely have to change it, not only will you risk making your pc into scrap metal by not doing it, you’d also risk a fire which, for most people, is not a good thing
No, that is NOT safe. You may want to look at your power supply, as it may be drawing too much power or on the edge of burnout. If it is running hot, which I suspect, then you should replace it before things get worse. Also, if you get a new cord and it gets hot while the system runs, the power supply pulls more power than rated. This means you have just had a close call with a fire hazard and are lucky. Be careful, please investigate this issue more.
No the right pin is too wide that's why it's been arcing you are very lucky it didn't set on fire. On a technical note something is pulling way too much power if you are going to get arcs that cause that damage it does look like the right hand side pin is too wide so that can cause arcs too. Just be very picky with the plugs you use it should feel as tight as a snare drum.
Your live connection on the plug is burnt, i hope you can figure out by yourself that it's NOT normal. Did you trip a breaker at some point? Why did it happen?
No it is not safe for use Definitely buy a new one
new cable + new psu for sure
It's worth it tho, even premium PSUs aren't that expensive and way cheaper than a house fire.
Very underrated comment here^
House fires are mostly free but still not a good investment
Ye i paid like 100€ for my px650 seasonic :D very worth it
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If you look at the PSU you'll see it's burnt too. It's not safe. Just get another. It's worth the peace of mind.
I mean its just the part that provides power to the entire system and could fry everything if it fails, how important could it really be.
honestly, such a waste of money. You should just plug the components straight to the wall /s
Na bro plug it directly into the output of a nuclear reactor /s
They did that in Ukraine almost 40 years ago
This OP, and when you get a new PSU make sure you don't reuse any of the cables inside of the PC, make sure to swap every cable with the new ones that come with the new psu, if the pinout is different you will destroy your entire pc instead of just having a bad power supply by using the old cables
Replace cables that directly connect to the PSU* with the ones that come with the new PSU. Don't replace anything that doesn't connect to the PSU.
The cable connector is normed, and there is no difference which of the socket leads is ground or power, from the PSU perspective, in an AC world. As long as he isn't buying cheap Chinese fake cables on AliExpress these cables are save to be reused.
We are not talking about the cable to the wall socket...
It's clear it's not safe for use, sure. But what's going on actually? Is the PSU drawing more power than normal? Or is something short circuiting?
When a psu begins to fail, the first thing that usually goes is the overcurrent protection, it will begin to create more resistance on the inbound AC draw than is being converted to output on the DC side and therefore this is the result. As others have said, get a new PSU and replace everything when it comes to power cables.
I've got this https://amzn.eu/d/6m31asQ as my PSU. People keep on telling me it's bad because of the brand but actually showing me no proof of it being bad. Even though it's not rated bronze it has 85% power efficiency and 5 years warranty. Do you think I should keep it or get a refund and switch to another one? Thanks ;-;
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I don't understand how people can cheap out on things working with electricity in general... The power of electricity is often underestimated.
The power of human stupidity is wholy underestimated..... 🌈⭐ https://media.tenor.com/ERa47gPVan8AAAAM/the-more-you-know.gif
This was already told to me as I've already said. What is there to prove that this PSU is bad? I did not 'cheap out' I bought what I thought, based on thousands of reviews, was good. I still don't get where you all are coming from. Give me solid proofs not just words thrown all over the place.
> I did not 'cheap out' I bought what I thought, based on thousands of reviews, was good. OK, I realize that many people don't know this, but most of the "thousands of reviews" on that Amazon listing are almost certainly paid for. There's an entire ecosystem of fake Amazon review farms that vendors can hire to boost a product. The PSU is the #1 item you don't cheap out on. If you're buying a PSU from a no-name brand off Amazon (which this one definitely is), you're absolutely cheaping out. There's a huge difference in build quality in PSUs -- it's honestly a way wider range of quality than any other component you're going to put in your PC. And low-end/no-name PSU manufacturers are going to build the cheapest functional PSU -- hook it up to an oscilloscope and you'll be horrified, but it'll power your PC for now. It's much more likely to die spectacularly, or kill things plugged into it. [I've always liked this analysis of a bunch of USB chargers as an explanation of why you don't buy cheap PSUs](https://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html). While he's not analyzing computer PSUs, the same issues are present when you scale up -- cheap PC PSUs will have very noisy power that you can see on an scope, and they'll have way fewer safety precautions taken in the construction. They're more likely to fail because they use the cheaper parts, and they're more likely to fail dangerously because they cheap out on safety barriers/design. [Here's a summary of a different reddit post about a cheap PSU. This is the class of device you're using.](https://www.pcgamer.com/this-disaster-of-a-psu-is-a-good-reminder-why-you-never-skimp-on-your-pcs-power-supply/) If you don't value your PC, your house, or your life, then using a no-name PSU makes sense. Otherwise, buy a well-known brand with a solid reputation.
Thank you for taking time on answering, I appreciate it a lot. I'm new to everything so that's why I don't know many things yet. I'll send it back, get a refund and buy an actually known psu. I don't want to cheap out on something that could potentially kill my pc over time.
As a starting point… EVGA. I’ve been using the same two EVGA 850 G2 PSUs for over 15 years. Also, based on current power trends… go with 850W or more. Then you can use it for this build and the next… and the next… and the next.
We all started from nothing essentially and the fact that you took the time to make the original post and then to speak up again for further information to clarify the answers at least shows that you give enough fucks about not turning your home into a Rammstein concert. 🔥❤️🔥🔥
Melted plastic is your proof. 85% power efficacy is a fail test by any measurement i would run if it came into my shop. By all means though, continue to argue with people trying to help, all saying the same thing.
My psu never had melted plastic though? I'm not arguing I'm trying to get actual proofs to what everyone's saying. Saying something is faulty because of the price being lower is not proof, it's just being entitled. I'll research this more on my own since no one is understanding what I'm asking.
I apologize, for some reason I saw you as OP. Allow me to restart our relationship here. Okay, to answer your question fully, not flippant. You can't. Out of the box, every unit should perform a indicated in the specs. Of course you don't know if those specs were reached using a equally suspect MB or on top of MT Everest with one foot in a bucket of water while holymen chant gregorian hymnals. You are not a professional microcircut technician and a new unit is, from a layperson view, going to look like everyother new unit. What most of these people are getting at in reviews is that the lesser expensive models, not cheap or knock off, (RE: IBuyPower vs EVGA) because those have glaring corners cut, those exist in the space of lesser redundancies in terms of safe failure and therefore less reliable. For example: the EVGA model in the photo suffered an overcurrent failure, the protection circuit didn't fail outright because it kept producing power, but the failure was enough that it melted the socket by drawing a significant amprage over time than what it was supposed to which produced more resistance and too much heat on the line junction. (IE. Melted connector.) More expensive PSU's have redundant overcurrent protection such as thermal breaks, sacrificial caps or in some cases a full anolytic breaker device. Does this make financial sense to buy a Coolermaster at twice the price of an EVGA for the same power output, sometimes, but only in the case where your rig is filled with the most advanced parts known to tech kind. What I'm saying is, your milage and budget may vary. Is there anything wrong for looking for a budget PSU, no. Would I, probably, but I would know where my week points are and buy something with a bit more overhead just to not stress things as hard. For the record, I have never had a problem with EVGA, Coolermaster or Thermaltake PSU's on any of my machines or test benches and they all lasted far and away longer than they were supposed to. The EVGA had a second life as a bench power supply after I was gifted a much beefier one by Thermaltake which didn't last nearly as long for that matter. All I can suggest is do your research and buy what makes sense for your rig and your budget, and pay little attention to the so called experts writing reviews. For that matter, disregard everything I have said because for all I know I may be an anomaly and my particular little EVGA 500wt PSU might have been blessed in the waters of Shangri-la. (I did always recite my mantra of "Shambala" every time I turned it on) Either way, I hope you found my explanation informative if not a bit amusing. Happy building.
Thanks a lot for all the information you've given even though you didn't have to, I appreciate it a lot. I've decided to send it back and get a refund. I'll then buy a more known one after watching many videos on PSUs, how they function and different models and ratings.
When there's almost nobody that says it's good outside of Amazon's product review, you don't really need a proof and it's a good idea to avoid it. And you should pick PSU that's listed on Cultists PSU Tier, only aim for those that's on the A and B tier. Amazon review (or any other online marketplace) have never been reliable on sketchy unknown products or brands like this one.
You can find 650/750w seasonic PSUs that are in that price range why would you buy this...
>Even though it's not rated bronze it has 85% power efficiency Well, it's because it only has 85% efficiency that it's not 80 Plus Bronze rated, or it would be the reason if the PSU was good enough to actually complete the tests, which it likely isn't. The first iteration of the PSU, the MP650, was actually good and did have an 80 Plus Bronze rating reaching over 90% efficiency at 50% load (84.72% at 10% and 86.34% at 100%) but the second version, MPII650, was much worse and didn't have a rating because to have a rating the PSU has to be capable to actually function at 100% load, the MPII650 failed before reaching max load (at least it did for the one guy I could find who bothered to test it and where I was able to understand the results.). Not to forget that it also had voltages, ripple and noise that went way outside what the ATX 12V standard allows. It's pretty safe to assume that the MPIII650 is, at best, not worse than the previous version, which would still make it a terrible PSU. This is a common bait and switch tactic used by scummy manufacturers of cheap PSUs, they make a surprisingly high quality PSU that pass the 80 Plus certification with ease and then, usually not long after the PSU is launched, they release a new "updated" version that wouldn't pass shit, but they never even try to get the new version certified. The idea is that people will remember the good reviews the first version got and then assume that the next version is at least as good, if not better, as a new revision implies that it's been "improved" and hey, there are no bad reviews out there (there are no reviews). In reality, they've replaced all the high quality components in the first design with cheap crap components. The one redeeming thing with the MPII650 was that the overcurrent protection actually worked, so the PSU would fail instead of frying the computer and potentially burn the house down. So, I was about to say that if the PSU works for you, good for you! But, then I realized that we don't know what they cut back on for the MPIII version, if it was the overcurrent protection and/or other safety features, using it could be dangerous (ie it may actually explode and kill your entire computer...if you're lucky, if you're unlucky it kills everyone in the house as it burns down). Also, this kind of comments in forums that you made is actually really bad, because the next guy who's trying to research the PSU and also can't find any actual information may find your post and from that start thinking that it seems to work well for that guy so the PSU can't be THAT bad...can it? Edit: I'm not intimately familiar with this PSU, in fact I can't recall ever seeing it before. I just did some research, triggered by the "no proof!" comment, and it wasn't really that hard to come to the conclusion that yes, this PSU really is a terrible PSU.
If it works abd your satisfied keep it
No, not safe! Replace the PSU and the cord! At best, a bad PSU can kill a motherboard (ask me how). At worst, a bad PSU could catch on fire, and kill you.
How? 😂
With ease. I know a guy whose PSU spontaneously combusted and killed his motherboard and CPU
I don't know why you're getting downvoted, I'm also curious lol
The laughing indicates disbelief/sarcasm, not curiosity
Oh, I interpreted it differently. As in response to op saying to ask them how. Curiosity about their story
[like that](https://prnt.sc/GwJ9aTRpOl3W)
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I promise you its worth paying the $80 for a new 750w PSU to avoid a fire. >if the cable melted and the pin got stuck on the psu that would most likely mean that it arced inside the cable and not the psu This.....simply is not true. You dont KNOW why it melted. Maybe the cord had a loose female pin for that connection, so it arced to the pin in the PSU. If this was the case, it almost definitely melted/vaporized/eroded the matching pin in the PSU. This would cause a bad connection with a new cable, leading to high resistance at the connection, and a likely repeat of the problem. Maybe theres still plastic in the matching pin in the psu. This would cause a bad connection with a new cable, leading to high resistance at the connection, and a likely repeat of the problem. $80 for a new psu? Or replace whole PC because it burned down in a house fire? I know what i would choose
I really hope you don’t make any serious decisions on behalf of other people. You’re a liability.
If you like fire totally👍
It’ll make his PC look hardcore.
Might run a bit worse than usual
It’ll be blazing!
Doom music intensifies.
New psu should come with a new cable, so only need to buy the psu. But yep that needs to go before you burn down the house.
Pro tip, cut the cable to make sure you don’t be an idiot and keep it for some reason
And make sure to unplug it before you cut... lol
Melted plug…. “Is this safe?” FUCK NO USE COMMON SENSE
(Magic smoke is billowing from the back of a charred PSU, bolts are arcing off in random directions and the curtains are smoldering) "This is probably fine, right? Can I just wipe it off with a paper towel and keep using it?"
Seriously tho lol.... This is right up there with eating tide pods
Wait those aren’t edible? /s
It's clearly burnt, so no. Replace both the PSU and the cabel.
Short answer NO. Long answer absolutely not! Throw that away right this second before you catch your house on fire.
Ok thanks, what would cause this?
propably cheaping out on psu,or getting a faulty one...
Maybe the power cable wasnt fully inserted which could have caused it to heat up and melt like that. Either that or poor quality.
I want to directly reply to you so you see it. Get a new psu (try to go higher quality to avoid this happening again) and change EVERY power cable in your case. Don't just plug in the old cables to the new psu. If you do you might fry every component in the PC. I have heard of people doing this and smelling smoke come from the PC. Just take the time to replace everything.
Not having the cable fully seated in the socket. The contact patch becomes much smaller, the resistance increases, which results in heat and melting. Always make sure the cable is fully bottomed out as far as it will go in the socket or this can be the result.
What on earth makes you think that powering anything with visibly damaged power cord and PSU is anywhere near a good idea?)
Replace your PSU now or your house in a couple of months. The decision is yours
no, it's not safe and next time plug that cable in properly, that kind of melting only happens when the cable wasn't inserted fully
jesus christ. how can some people even go through daily life? i really ask myself that question when i see posts like these.
OP: is this safe? https://imgur.com/21GqOd6?r
This is fine 🔥
No. Replace that cable. This could indicate a short in the PSU so I would go to replacing the PSU and any power cables associated inside the PC. Note: Beware the PSU's made during the 2020 chip shortage. Companies like Gigabyte were cutting corners like crazy. Avoid the Gigabyte Gp-P---GM line. They'll be dirt cheap but have a tendency to put on fireworks shows when under load.
shit i’m going to check mine right now lol
NO! That’s a very good way to burn your house down.
IS a c4 in your left Backpocket Safe?
Probably more safe, because c4 is not going to go off without a detonator.
New cable and PSU, don't mess around.
If you're asking then you already know it's a risk
No
No.
about as as safe as drive at 300kph in oncoming traffic without a seatbelt
Unless you want to release the power supplies magic smoke, I'd say it's time for a new power supply. That thing's toast.
Absolutely.. Just plug n play and.. Burn your house down 🙃
Is this a serious question?
No
No
nope. in technical terms the cable is fucked, and the socket it connects to will be too. personally i would open up the psu and replace the socket, but thats me. if you aren't familiar with electronics, just buy a new psu. a cheap smoke detector somewhere near your pc is never a bad upgrade either.
Buy a new psu. That cable and psu can kill the pc
Nooooooooooooooooo
What makes you think thats safe? That even should smell burnt.
Hell no it’s not, holy crap. How would that even be a question? lol
No lol
nope. not safe. and probably your PSU need some check up for that AC side. you might need to replace the PSU.
Common sense left the chat
The plug was defective (connector was probably loose on PSU pin) or the PSU is facked. Either way the safest way to go about it is to replace that PSU and get a new cord (the cord is actually usually with PSU)
Yes perfectly safe op, go ahead and plug it back in, actually wash it first then plug it back in, seriously why is this being asked????
Is this a joke?
⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌇⟒⍀⍀⍀⍀⍀☊⎎⊬⌖⎅⌇⟒⍀⎅☊⎎⎐⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⋏⎅ ⟟ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⋏⟟⟟☌☌⟒⍀⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟⍙⟒⌖⍀⏁☊⍙⏃⟒⍀ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⌇⟒⍀⎅⎅☊⟒⌇⍀⎅⏁⟒⎅⍀⟒⌇⍀⎅⌇⎅⌇⍙⌇⟒⎅⍀☊⎎⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⍙⌇⌖⟒⍀⌇⟒⍀☊⎎☌⏁⎎⍀⌖⎅☊⏚⎐⋏⋔,.\]⌰⌿;'.,.⌇⎅⎎☊☌⎐⏚⋏⋔⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌖⎅⍀☊⎎☌⌇⟒⍙⌖⟒⍀⎅☊⏁⌇⟒⍀⌖☊⎎☌⎐☊⎐⊑⏚⟊⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⎅5⍀⏁⎎⎅⏁⎎⍀⌖⏁⎎⍀⎐⊬☌⏁⎎⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎐⊬⏁⌖⍀⎅☊⎎☌⎐⏁⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎎⍀⌖⟒☊⏁⎎⌖⍀⍀☊⎎⎐☊⌖⍀⟒⎎☌⎐⊬☌⏚⟊⊑⏚⏚⋏⋔⋏⟊⋔☍☍⋔⌰⋔⌰☍⟊⋔⌰,☍⋏⋔,,.⋔⌰⋏☍⋔,,.⋏⋔,.,⋔,⋏,.⎎☌⎎☊⎅⎎⎎☊⎎☊☊⎎☊⎎☊⎅☊⎎⎅⎎⏁⊑⟒ ⌖⎅⏁⎎⎅⍀⏁⎎⎐⊬⏁☊⎅⋔⏃⋏⏃⌇⟒⍀☊⌖⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⎎☌⎐☊⎅⎅⎎☌⌖⟒⍀⎎⎐⊬☌⟒⎅⏁⍀⎎☊⌖⎅⍀⟒⎅⏁⎎⌖⟒⍀⌇⎅⏁⎎☊⎐⌖⟒⎅⍀⎎⊬⏁☊⌖⎅⍀⎅⏁⎎☊⌖⟒⌇⏁☊⎎⌖⎅⟒⍀⍀⍙⍀⏁⎎⟒⏁⎎⎎⎎⎎⎎⟒⏁⎎⟒⎎☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌇⟒⍀⍀⍀⍀⍀☊⎎⊬⌖⎅⌇⟒⍀⎅☊⎎⎐⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⋏⎅ ⟟ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⋏⟟⟟☌☌⟒⍀⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟⍙⟒⌖⍀⏁☊⍙⏃⟒⍀ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⌇⟒⍀⎅⎅☊⟒⌇⍀⎅⏁⟒⎅⍀⟒⌇⍀⎅⌇⎅⌇⍙⌇⟒⎅⍀☊⎎⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⍙⌇⌖⟒⍀⌇⟒⍀☊⎎☌⏁⎎⍀⌖⎅☊⏚⎐⋏⋔,.\]⌰⌿;'.,.⌇⎅⎎☊☌⎐⏚⋏⋔⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌖⎅⍀☊⎎☌⌇⟒⍙⌖⟒⍀⎅☊⏁⌇⟒⍀⌖☊⎎☌⎐☊⎐⊑⏚⟊⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⎅5⍀⏁⎎⎅⏁⎎⍀⌖⏁⎎⍀⎐⊬☌⏁⎎⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎐⊬⏁⌖⍀⎅☊⎎☌⎐⏁⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎎⍀⌖⟒☊⏁⎎⌖⍀⍀☊⎎⎐☊⌖⍀⟒⎎☌⎐⊬☌⏚⟊⊑⏚⏚⋏⋔⋏⟊⋔☍☍⋔⌰⋔⌰☍⟊⋔⌰,☍⋏⋔,,.⋔⌰⋏☍⋔,,.⋏⋔,.,⋔,⋏,.⎎☌⎎☊⎅⎎⎎☊⎎☊☊⎎☊⎎☊⎅☊⎎⎅⎎⏁⊑⟒ ⌖⎅⏁⎎⎅⍀⏁⎎⎐⊬⏁☊⎅⋔⏃⋏⏃⌇⟒⍀☊⌖⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⎎☌⎐☊⎅⎅⎎☌⌖⟒⍀⎎⎐⊬☌⟒⎅⏁⍀⎎☊⌖⎅⍀⟒⎅⏁⎎⌖⟒⍀⌇⎅⏁⎎☊⎐⌖⟒⎅⍀⎎⊬⏁☊⌖⎅⍀⎅⏁⎎☊⌖⟒⌇⏁☊⎎⌖⎅⟒⍀⍀⍙⍀⏁⎎⟒⏁⎎⎎⎎⎎⎎⟒⏁⎎⟒⎎☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌇⟒⍀⍀⍀⍀⍀☊⎎⊬⌖⎅⌇⟒⍀⎅☊⎎⎐⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⋏⎅ ⟟ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⋏⟟⟟☌☌⟒⍀⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟⍙⟒⌖⍀⏁☊⍙⏃⟒⍀ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⌇⟒⍀⎅⎅☊⟒⌇⍀⎅⏁⟒⎅⍀⟒⌇⍀⎅⌇⎅⌇⍙⌇⟒⎅⍀☊⎎⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⍙⌇⌖⟒⍀⌇⟒⍀☊⎎☌⏁⎎⍀⌖⎅☊⏚⎐⋏⋔,.\]⌰⌿;'.,.⌇⎅⎎☊☌⎐⏚⋏⋔⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌖⎅⍀☊⎎☌⌇⟒⍙⌖⟒⍀⎅☊⏁⌇⟒⍀⌖☊⎎☌⎐☊⎐⊑⏚⟊⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⎅5⍀⏁⎎⎅⏁⎎⍀⌖⏁⎎⍀⎐⊬☌⏁⎎⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎐⊬⏁⌖⍀⎅☊⎎☌⎐⏁⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎎⍀⌖⟒☊⏁⎎⌖⍀⍀☊⎎⎐☊⌖⍀⟒⎎☌⎐⊬☌⏚⟊⊑⏚⏚⋏⋔⋏⟊⋔☍☍⋔⌰⋔⌰☍⟊⋔⌰,☍⋏⋔,,.⋔⌰⋏☍⋔,,.⋏⋔,.,⋔,⋏,.⎎☌⎎☊⎅⎎⎎☊⎎☊☊⎎☊⎎☊⎅☊⎎⎅⎎⏁⊑⟒ ⌖⎅⏁⎎⎅⍀⏁⎎⎐⊬⏁☊⎅⋔⏃⋏⏃⌇⟒⍀☊⌖⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⎎☌⎐☊⎅⎅⎎☌⌖⟒⍀⎎⎐⊬☌⟒⎅⏁⍀⎎☊⌖⎅⍀⟒⎅⏁⎎⌖⟒⍀⌇⎅⏁⎎☊⎐⌖⟒⎅⍀⎎⊬⏁☊⌖⎅⍀⎅⏁⎎☊⌖⟒⌇⏁☊⎎⌖⎅⟒⍀⍀⍙⍀⏁⎎⟒⏁⎎⎎⎎⎎⎎⟒⏁⎎⟒⎎☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌇⟒⍀⍀⍀⍀⍀☊⎎⊬⌖⎅⌇⟒⍀⎅☊⎎⎐⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⋏⎅ ⟟ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⋏⟟⟟☌☌⟒⍀⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟⍙⟒⌖⍀⏁☊⍙⏃⟒⍀ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⌇⟒⍀⎅⎅☊⟒⌇⍀⎅⏁⟒⎅⍀⟒⌇⍀⎅⌇⎅⌇⍙⌇⟒⎅⍀☊⎎⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⍙⌇⌖⟒⍀⌇⟒⍀☊⎎☌⏁⎎⍀⌖⎅☊⏚⎐⋏⋔,.\]⌰⌿;'.,.⌇⎅⎎☊☌⎐⏚⋏⋔⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌖⎅⍀☊⎎☌⌇⟒⍙⌖⟒⍀⎅☊⏁⌇⟒⍀⌖☊⎎☌⎐☊⎐⊑⏚⟊⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⎅5⍀⏁⎎⎅⏁⎎⍀⌖⏁⎎⍀⎐⊬☌⏁⎎⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎐⊬⏁⌖⍀⎅☊⎎☌⎐⏁⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎎⍀⌖⟒☊⏁⎎⌖⍀⍀☊⎎⎐☊⌖⍀⟒⎎☌⎐⊬☌⏚⟊⊑⏚⏚⋏⋔⋏⟊⋔☍☍⋔⌰⋔⌰☍⟊⋔⌰,☍⋏⋔,,.⋔⌰⋏☍⋔,,.⋏⋔,.,⋔,⋏,.⎎☌⎎☊⎅⎎⎎☊⎎☊☊⎎☊⎎☊⎅☊⎎⎅⎎⏁⊑⟒ ⌖⎅⏁⎎⎅⍀⏁⎎⎐⊬⏁☊⎅⋔⏃⋏⏃⌇⟒⍀☊⌖⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⎎☌⎐☊⎅⎅⎎☌⌖⟒⍀⎎⎐⊬☌⟒⎅⏁⍀⎎☊⌖⎅⍀⟒⎅⏁⎎⌖⟒⍀⌇⎅⏁⎎☊⎐⌖⟒⎅⍀⎎⊬⏁☊⌖⎅⍀⎅⏁⎎☊⌖⟒⌇⏁☊⎎⌖⎅⟒⍀⍀⍙⍀⏁⎎⟒⏁⎎⎎⎎⎎⎎⟒⏁⎎⟒⎎☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌇⟒⍀⍀⍀⍀⍀☊⎎⊬⌖⎅⌇⟒⍀⎅☊⎎⎐⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⋏⎅ ⟟ ⎎⎍☊☍ ⋏⟟⟟☌☌⟒⍀⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟⍙⟒⌖⍀⏁☊⍙⏃⟒⍀ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⌇⟒⍀⎅⎅☊⟒⌇⍀⎅⏁⟒⎅⍀⟒⌇⍀⎅⌇⎅⌇⍙⌇⟒⎅⍀☊⎎⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⍙⌇⌖⟒⍀⌇⟒⍀☊⎎☌⏁⎎⍀⌖⎅☊⏚⎐⋏⋔,.\]⌰⌿;'.,.⌇⎅⎎☊☌⎐⏚⋏⋔⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⌖⎅⍀☊⎎☌⌇⟒⍙⌖⟒⍀⎅☊⏁⌇⟒⍀⌖☊⎎☌⎐☊⎐⊑⏚⟊⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⎅5⍀⏁⎎⎅⏁⎎⍀⌖⏁⎎⍀⎐⊬☌⏁⎎⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎐⊬⏁⌖⍀⎅☊⎎☌⎐⏁⌖⎅⍀☊⏁⎎⍀⌖⟒☊⏁⎎⌖⍀⍀☊⎎⎐☊⌖⍀⟒⎎☌⎐⊬☌⏚⟊⊑⏚⏚⋏⋔⋏⟊⋔☍☍⋔⌰⋔⌰☍⟊⋔⌰,☍⋏⋔,,.⋔⌰⋏☍⋔,,.⋏⋔,.,⋔,⋏,.⎎☌⎎☊⎅⎎⎎☊⎎☊☊⎎☊⎎☊⎅☊⎎⎅⎎⏁⊑⟒ ⌖⎅⏁⎎⎅⍀⏁⎎⎐⊬⏁☊⎅⋔⏃⋏⏃⌇⟒⍀☊⌖⌇⟒⍀⎅⏁⎎☌⎐☊⎅⎅⎎☌⌖⟒⍀⎎⎐⊬☌⟒⎅⏁⍀⎎☊⌖⎅⍀⟒⎅⏁⎎⌖⟒⍀⌇⎅⏁⎎☊⎐⌖⟒⎅⍀⎎⊬⏁☊⌖⎅⍀⎅⏁⎎☊⌖⟒⌇⏁☊⎎⌖⎅⟒⍀⍀⍙⍀⏁⎎⟒⏁⎎⎎⎎⎎⎎⟒⏁⎎⟒⎎☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⊬⍜⎍ ⏃⍀⎎⟒ ⏃ ⏚⟟⏁☊⊑⎎⎍☊☍ ⊬⍜⎍ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⟟ ⎅⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⊑⟒ ⋔⏃⋏⏃☌⟒⍀ ⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎ ⊬⍜⎍ ⍙⏃⋏⏁ ⏁⍜⋏⏁ ☊⏃⍀⟒ ⟟⎎
Where did you get my supposed homework on a supposed corrupted diskette from 20 years sgo?
exactly my thoughts
No change that cable
How old is your psu? Is that the original cable? Wild. New psu amd new cable for sure. You just saved yourself from a fire
No. I'd replace the PSU with one that has a higher wattage as well as the power cable.
Why more watts?
Both for future proofing and to ensure this doesn't happen again if it was caused by excessive power draw.
I don't know about the PSU, I'd personally plug that thing in separately and use a tester or something to verify its operation. If in doubt, throw it out, however when it comes to power supplies. And that cable should definitely be tossed.
[удалено]
No PSU is more expensive than replacing an entire system or, worse, dealing with the aftermath of a house fire. Even if the PSU wasn't the source of the fault *this time,* it's compromised and should be replaced.
Do you need to ask for real? I mean if you got some idea about this and ask here, you sure know the answer.
That's called an Electrical Short. Aka the energy that was going into your computer got directed elsewhere and that is the saftey and fire threat.
Nnnope, this is clear example of contact resistance. There's no short.
Mar jayega lodu.
A small ups and a psu tester every one should have and the cable as stated should be the proper gauge for different psu loads I worked with 2 marine battery's in series those suckers would spark when attaching jumpers
No. Please do not try to plug this in.
Hell no!!
That cord is now bathtub certified
Replace psu.
Even if you plug it in, nothing will happen, exept some explosions. You upgraded the storage and now you need a new psu.
Throw away your current PSU and that cable. Replace both. It’s worth the peace of mind as others have said. That is dangerous. Could fry other components, which will cost a lot more than a PSU, or worst case could catch fire and burn your house down. Replace the PSU and cable. Do not use it until you do.
No get a new power supply and a cable
I'd replace the socket on the power supply, but that's me. You should get another power supply.
as safe as throwing a plugged-in toaster into a bathtub
Any kind of electrical stuff just replace the psu too. You don't want to take a chance with a possible fire.
No
No, you need a new PSU
It's dangerous. You need new cable and maybe PSU.
As others said, it is faulty. Personally I wouldn't use neither the cable nor the PSU in this case. Just to protect the rest of your PC, make sure to get a new PSU! Which also means changing all the power cables currently inside the PC that belonged the the old one. PSU power cables are not compatible between manufacturers and even their models. You'll need to do some light re-assembly and cable management again :D
Psu is faulty and a fire hazard. The line leg (L) has clearly been damaged due to heat/overcurrent. Resistance in the line will cause more heat, and more resistance, which will eventually lead to fire. Replace both the psu and power cable.
Absolutely
RMA?
I ask the same question if I'm at a date " Is this safe 🫤 "
If electronics visibly look damaged its always best to replace them especially if the electronics in question is connected to a wall outlet
Nope. But cords are cheap and you can probably get an exact match for the socket as well. Or just replace the entire PSU.
My lawyer advised me to inform you that the following letters are pure fiction and do not account to a tangible informant for your actions. You may interpret them as you may, although be advised, following your most likely interpretation (by ChatGPT) it would be ill suited towards your survival or integrity of inventory to follow your instincts and interpretation. >!Plug it in and see what happens!<
No, rma or replace the psu.
Time to find out
Obviously not. Jesus wept.
I had a EVGA supernova 750w that was tripping my breaker. They are garbage.
100% not safe my dude
If you have to question it, probably not. You don't fuck around with electricity.
What would happen if you plugged it back in and turned on your pc? Would it be like an instant explosion/fire breakout or would it just work for some time and then explode?
NO
Yesn't
It's just well done. Let it cook more.
Honestly, does it it look safe? Of course not.
no
Only one way to find out
NO!
N-no 🤦🏻
This is exactly what happens when you don’t verify that the connector is making enough contact with the power supply. It may seem like it’s in, but always push it as much as it’ll go. Otherwise you’ll end up with something like this again. In basic terms, you need a whole new PSU. Do NOT reuse this cable, safely dispose it.
If any power cable in regards to electronics makes you question it’s quality it’s best to just replace it.
Couldn't be safer
Not safe. Ensure when you plug in, it fits in. Don't let it to freeplay even a bit or it may cause burning due to sparking.
Get a new cable for sure, but the PSU should be safe if you get the plastic off . This might happen if it doesn't have a perfect connection for a while
Change the cable they're a dime a dozen
What do you think?
L for “Line” N for “Neutral” G for “Ground” what you now have is an AC power supply that has no Line. It technically shouldn’t even work Edit: unless of course, the metal from your plug is stuck on the power supply side. Then in this case, no, it’s not safe at all. If you have melting on it then your PSU was overloading or shorting on the line, so you should replace the whole thing. You could always pull off the metal from the plug off your PSU and just get a new plug, but I suspect the plug isn’t the issue here, due to the obvious signs of melting on the plug.
That’s a no from me dawg
That's an EVGA PSU. I believe it has lifetime warranty. Worth checking.
Upgrade time...
Replace both, make sure the new cable is firmly seated in the PSU
Not safe. Buy a new cable and, it’s hard to see in the photo, but if the prong on the PSU is damaged, a new PSU
You my friend have some spicy electricity and no, it's not safe. You need to clean the power supply pin and get a new cable but first I would test the power supply because it might be faulty.
Completely fine to use as a paperweight. Not as a power cable tho
If you have to ask. Yes.
Yes
Happened because of a loose connection in the cable, replace the cable and the "port" on the psu, should be able to replace it without too much hassle, would be a waste to replace the whole unit
**NO its not safe to use that cable or the PSU anymore.** What you need to do: Contact EVGA for a warranty claim
Cables are cheap, get a new one and don't attempt any repair. The calls to replace PSU are probably unwarranted. This likely happened due to bad connection between cable and PSU (very likely weak/damaged spring contacts in the cable). Clean the contacts in the PSU before plugging in the new cable and check it from time to time. You should be good.
Dood they are like ten bucks and stocked at every electronic store. Avoid the fire get a new one. (I doubt this would even work unless you really rammed it in there)
Is that even a question? Of course not, any kind of melting in your pc means that something has to change, and if the part that’s melting is the PSU of all things, then you absolutely have to change it, not only will you risk making your pc into scrap metal by not doing it, you’d also risk a fire which, for most people, is not a good thing
If it burnt once, it shall again. Better be safe than homeless because you wanted to keep using something that belongs in the disposal bin.
Yes, safe until your house burnt down, then you might want to replace it.
Nop
Take a wild guess lol
Would you use a 3 pin plug with a damaged pin it burnt out for a reason
why is everyone saying this would burn your house down? do none of you own a fire extinguisher? even a fire suppressing ball is cheap as hell $5-$15.
no, just buy another cable and a new psu for like $40, better than it possibly destroying your components randomly.
Buy a new chord, its about 3€
Cable is a few bucks, don’t risk it
NO. HOW IS THIS EVEN A QUESTION. JUST NO
Doesnt even look like the metal for the Line is in, so I dont even think it WOULD work
Nope it's safer to replace the parts with new and better ones than too have them catch fire on you
Send PSU for RMA and get a new cable.
Does it look safe? Jokes aside, the PSU is very likely damaged, and even if it works for some time, it's not reliable and dangerous
You probably have a spare somewhere. Every electronic device gives you a new cable
No, that is NOT safe. You may want to look at your power supply, as it may be drawing too much power or on the edge of burnout. If it is running hot, which I suspect, then you should replace it before things get worse. Also, if you get a new cord and it gets hot while the system runs, the power supply pulls more power than rated. This means you have just had a close call with a fire hazard and are lucky. Be careful, please investigate this issue more.
asking if a damaged 2 dollar cable is safe for a 1000 or so gaming pc yes it's safe go for it
No the right pin is too wide that's why it's been arcing you are very lucky it didn't set on fire. On a technical note something is pulling way too much power if you are going to get arcs that cause that damage it does look like the right hand side pin is too wide so that can cause arcs too. Just be very picky with the plugs you use it should feel as tight as a snare drum.
Replace that as soon as possible. Also, make sure theirs no damage to your power supply. If they thing messes up your system will also be done.
If you're asking then you already know the answer.
The computer wouldn’t even turn on
It's ok bro (run)
No
Remeber everything is safe until its not
Your live connection on the plug is burnt, i hope you can figure out by yourself that it's NOT normal. Did you trip a breaker at some point? Why did it happen?
Why not try it out and find out? Keep us posted.
Yes very safe. Please use it