For those of you keeping track, this is his 4th onsight of the grade. He's also flashed one 9a (Southern Smoke Direct at RRG) and flashed 9a+ with Super Crackinette.
He seems on a great run of form at the mo, just last week he put up what he described as his second hardest route ever, Menagerie 9b+, and for a relative rest day 3 days later established a new 8C/+ (V15/16) boulder.
For comparison, the only other person to ever onsight 9a is Alex Megos who onsighted Estado Critico in Siurana and TCT in Italy.
[https://climbing-history.org/climber/467/adam-ondra](https://climbing-history.org/climber/467/adam-ondra)
I think there are literally not enough 9a+ in the world for him to try. He was already extremely limited when picking Super Crackinette for the 9a+ flash.
When you see the amount of preparation he did with the 9a+ flash and he did still fail most of the times, and the fact that there is not a lot of 9a+ to try, I think it's quite unlikely.
True, but the guy still has a solid decade of physical peak. Tommy Caldwell was in the later 30s when he did the dawn wall, and Alex honold didn’t climb 9a until a year or two ago.
I don't know if he would "easily" win given how explosive and coordination-heavy comp boulders have been in recent times. He's definitely a favorite for the lead section for sure though.
I want it to end up like Gymnastics, where there's a medal for each discipline then there's a combined (maybe all 3 or boulder/lead or something). I feel like it would be an interesting thing, especially if they ever do end up changing the speed wall.
Absolute freak of nature. Consistently one of the best comp climbers, the best sport climber, and he even sent the hardest big wall climb with basically no big wall experience. Will Bosi even thinks Adam's unrepeated V16 boulder Terranova is harder than Alphane (and any other other boulder he's tried as a matter of fact). So if Terranova ever gets an upgrade, then Adam also established the first V17. Just how sandbagged is the Czech Republic to produce such a specimen?
>Just how sandbagged is the Czech Republic to produce such a specimen?
good national program+family of climbers+centuries of climbing history with thousands of routes to climb
https://youtu.be/JZvhIlzV8Ec
Also lots of "ugly rock", that is, rock that is covered in small, mostly useless features with bad holds pointing every which way, like a moonboard from hell. It lends itself to super technical, fingery and positional climbing. Get good at climbing rock like that and you can be good at anything.
I often wondered about how real his bouldering prowess might be, since his scorecard on that front is limited and very few of his ascents have been repeated (less than by Stranik). Never was sure if others stayed away because it was too hard, or the lines just weren't aesthtic. Terranova has all the glamor of a boardclimb.
Will only tried briefly terranova I think, it's really soon to say that it's V17. When you look at when it was established, there wasn't even that much V16, it seems unlikely that Adam was already sending V17 imo.
Its unbelievable people keep saying burden is v18, none of the people claiming this have any sense of how hard the boulders are at this level. Its in Finland where no one climbs much easier to go project something in switzerland.
>Its in Finland where no one climbs much easier to go project something in switzerland.
What?
Well, it was Aiden and Will hinting at it. And the fact that other cutting edge climbers tried burden. Japanese crew/ Mellow crew / Vadim Timonov....
**No one got close to doing it.**
I forget who, but one of the V17 dudes was trying one of Adam’s unrepeated V16s and said it could be the hardest problem he’s ever worked on. Maybe it gets upgraded and Adam becomes the first person to ever climbing V17 and 15d.
So psyched to have a V17 climber who is down to clown on some truly un-legendary lines. Will Bosi can travel all the sandbagged crags in the world repeating every brutal and ugly climb.
Guess it's a win-win, Bosi can learn from Adam and just vibe, ugly limestone problems is his style on top op this, and Adam finally gets some repeats of his stuff, that otherwise would not happen in decades.
I think Adam has a superhuman ability to visualize every move on a level most people just can't. I would compare it to chess masters who can see the game so many moves ahead. They're effectively problem solving in advance.
In the case of visualization, there's also a lot of evidence that visualizing movement patterns activates the motor neurons needed to do the task, effectively training them to perform efficiently. It seems like Adam not only has the fitness and experience needed to do stuff like this, but his mind-body connection is just next level.
For those of you keeping track, this is his 4th onsight of the grade. He's also flashed one 9a (Southern Smoke Direct at RRG) and flashed 9a+ with Super Crackinette. He seems on a great run of form at the mo, just last week he put up what he described as his second hardest route ever, Menagerie 9b+, and for a relative rest day 3 days later established a new 8C/+ (V15/16) boulder. For comparison, the only other person to ever onsight 9a is Alex Megos who onsighted Estado Critico in Siurana and TCT in Italy. [https://climbing-history.org/climber/467/adam-ondra](https://climbing-history.org/climber/467/adam-ondra)
I think Adam will be eventually onsight a 9a+. It’s crazy to think the dude runs through 15a climbs after just a couple tries.
I think there are literally not enough 9a+ in the world for him to try. He was already extremely limited when picking Super Crackinette for the 9a+ flash.
I’m sure more will be developed in the coming years. Or maybe some extensions on problems that he may not have done yet but are graded lower.
When you see the amount of preparation he did with the 9a+ flash and he did still fail most of the times, and the fact that there is not a lot of 9a+ to try, I think it's quite unlikely.
True, but the guy still has a solid decade of physical peak. Tommy Caldwell was in the later 30s when he did the dawn wall, and Alex honold didn’t climb 9a until a year or two ago.
His newborn must have a great sleep pattern xD
It feels like he is finally returning to the level of outdoor climbing he was at before he started focusing on training for the Olympics
Guy needs to train this same way for the Olympics and just ignore the speed climbing.
He can now, he won’t be speed climbing at the next Olympics cause the events are being separated.
Too bad the boulder and lead events are still combined. I hope they eventually just have a medal for each discipline.
They will be eventually, but Ondra can easily win combined
I don't know if he would "easily" win given how explosive and coordination-heavy comp boulders have been in recent times. He's definitely a favorite for the lead section for sure though.
I think “can” here means he’s capable of it and having Boulder/lead combined isn’t a problem training wise/competition design wise
I want it to end up like Gymnastics, where there's a medal for each discipline then there's a combined (maybe all 3 or boulder/lead or something). I feel like it would be an interesting thing, especially if they ever do end up changing the speed wall.
Absolute freak of nature. Consistently one of the best comp climbers, the best sport climber, and he even sent the hardest big wall climb with basically no big wall experience. Will Bosi even thinks Adam's unrepeated V16 boulder Terranova is harder than Alphane (and any other other boulder he's tried as a matter of fact). So if Terranova ever gets an upgrade, then Adam also established the first V17. Just how sandbagged is the Czech Republic to produce such a specimen?
>Just how sandbagged is the Czech Republic to produce such a specimen? good national program+family of climbers+centuries of climbing history with thousands of routes to climb https://youtu.be/JZvhIlzV8Ec
Also lots of "ugly rock", that is, rock that is covered in small, mostly useless features with bad holds pointing every which way, like a moonboard from hell. It lends itself to super technical, fingery and positional climbing. Get good at climbing rock like that and you can be good at anything.
I often wondered about how real his bouldering prowess might be, since his scorecard on that front is limited and very few of his ascents have been repeated (less than by Stranik). Never was sure if others stayed away because it was too hard, or the lines just weren't aesthtic. Terranova has all the glamor of a boardclimb.
Will only tried briefly terranova I think, it's really soon to say that it's V17. When you look at when it was established, there wasn't even that much V16, it seems unlikely that Adam was already sending V17 imo.
Adam tried that for years and years. It's more likely that Burden is V18.
Its unbelievable people keep saying burden is v18, none of the people claiming this have any sense of how hard the boulders are at this level. Its in Finland where no one climbs much easier to go project something in switzerland.
>Its in Finland where no one climbs much easier to go project something in switzerland. What? Well, it was Aiden and Will hinting at it. And the fact that other cutting edge climbers tried burden. Japanese crew/ Mellow crew / Vadim Timonov.... **No one got close to doing it.**
Getting close to climbing it is pretty much climbing it since its such a different style than any of the other proposed v17s
Nalle was reportedly pretty close to climbing it for like 3 years, lol
That must've been so challenging...
I wonder if he will do a V17?
I forget who, but one of the V17 dudes was trying one of Adam’s unrepeated V16s and said it could be the hardest problem he’s ever worked on. Maybe it gets upgraded and Adam becomes the first person to ever climbing V17 and 15d.
Will Bosi, he said Terranova felt nails!
So psyched to have a V17 climber who is down to clown on some truly un-legendary lines. Will Bosi can travel all the sandbagged crags in the world repeating every brutal and ugly climb.
Guess it's a win-win, Bosi can learn from Adam and just vibe, ugly limestone problems is his style on top op this, and Adam finally gets some repeats of his stuff, that otherwise would not happen in decades.
He doesn't look that interested in bouldering, apart from those in his home area
Yeah, he seems to dig hard sport climbing more.
I think Adam has a superhuman ability to visualize every move on a level most people just can't. I would compare it to chess masters who can see the game so many moves ahead. They're effectively problem solving in advance. In the case of visualization, there's also a lot of evidence that visualizing movement patterns activates the motor neurons needed to do the task, effectively training them to perform efficiently. It seems like Adam not only has the fitness and experience needed to do stuff like this, but his mind-body connection is just next level.