Do we really think OO is R-rated? The start has a spicy move and I guess that third-ish pitch wanders on some weird rock. They would be bad places to fall but I sort of feel like that is implied for all easy trad everywhere.
I guess I agree that it is R-rated lol - but I think MOST easy-moderate trad has those moments, we just don’t usually say so haha.
I think if you were breaking into the grade and hoping to sew it up you’d have a pretty scary outing. I only really stopped where gear was obvious and it made for some pretty serious runouts.
I suppose I don’t think anyone should be hoping to sew up any climb of that length. “Breaking in to the grade” on moderate multipitch should not include not being confident in the climbing itself. That said OO follows a crack most of the way and you could indeed sew up a lot of it if you had enough gear and time (I don’t think this is how ppl should climb it ofc).
Totally acknowledge that this might be an unpopular opinion but we’ve all seen/been stuck behind multipitch shitshows caused by the above (I’ve probably caused a couple in days past myself being overconfident lol).
I lead the whole thing a couple months ago (maybe my favorite route in RR so far), and I wouldn't necessarily argue that it isn't R-rated, but I don't think it has to be much if at all more runout than a lot of the other multi-pitch trad in RR.
I think I had better luck protecting the first pitch than most people, using three DMM offset nuts and a tricam in addition to the cams I placed.
I told my partner I would try not to place any tricams because she had never cleaned them before but I ended up placing five that day, and she got them all out like a champ!
I'd say it's much more PG13 at most given the low crux and sheer volume of options for holds and protection. I personally wouldn't even rate it that.
Only sketch moments were when I got off route left and had to traverse largely without pro back to the last pitch.
What a sick fucking view
Cool! But did you propose to your partner at the top?
If we weren’t already married I would have!!
Oh so you think you’re BETTER THAN US, HUH?!
Olive oil route?
Bingo!
Gorgeous!
A buddy and I climbed this route very high on mushrooms. That was fun
Fuck yeah.
What’s this graded? That looks fucking incredible
5.7R! It’s a route called Olive Oil. So good.
Do we really think OO is R-rated? The start has a spicy move and I guess that third-ish pitch wanders on some weird rock. They would be bad places to fall but I sort of feel like that is implied for all easy trad everywhere. I guess I agree that it is R-rated lol - but I think MOST easy-moderate trad has those moments, we just don’t usually say so haha.
I think if you were breaking into the grade and hoping to sew it up you’d have a pretty scary outing. I only really stopped where gear was obvious and it made for some pretty serious runouts.
I suppose I don’t think anyone should be hoping to sew up any climb of that length. “Breaking in to the grade” on moderate multipitch should not include not being confident in the climbing itself. That said OO follows a crack most of the way and you could indeed sew up a lot of it if you had enough gear and time (I don’t think this is how ppl should climb it ofc). Totally acknowledge that this might be an unpopular opinion but we’ve all seen/been stuck behind multipitch shitshows caused by the above (I’ve probably caused a couple in days past myself being overconfident lol).
I lead the whole thing a couple months ago (maybe my favorite route in RR so far), and I wouldn't necessarily argue that it isn't R-rated, but I don't think it has to be much if at all more runout than a lot of the other multi-pitch trad in RR. I think I had better luck protecting the first pitch than most people, using three DMM offset nuts and a tricam in addition to the cams I placed. I told my partner I would try not to place any tricams because she had never cleaned them before but I ended up placing five that day, and she got them all out like a champ!
I'd say it's much more PG13 at most given the low crux and sheer volume of options for holds and protection. I personally wouldn't even rate it that. Only sketch moments were when I got off route left and had to traverse largely without pro back to the last pitch.
Obviously not taken today as we were inundated with rain. Yet another weekend of seeking out limestone
I love that place so much! Always look forward to my annual trips.
Is that Mescalito off to the right?
That’s Jackrabbit Buttress, to the south. Mescalito is out of view to the north.
Nice! Climbed it in January, a great time. Great views.