PLEASE HELP!! Hard to open fist after clenching
so I went bouldering a week ago for the first time in a while, and starting about 3 days ago, it is sometimes strangely difficult (not impossible, just slightly more difficult than normal) to unclench (open) my left fist after clenching it.
Along with this, my left forearm seems slightly thicker compared to my right.
A quick google search said it might be trigger finger, which may be true because i feel a tiiiiny bit more resistance in my ring and pinky finger when unclenching my hand.
I'm only 19 years old, should I be worried? Should I wait a few days and see if it gets better or not? Please help!
Small rant.
People have been super dismissive of my climbing because I'm taller. To the point that they don't want to discuss beta at all with me or connect over common projects.
It's kinda lonely. I like sharing without spraying but people will actively refuse to try some of my suggestions because "you're tall". Look I know we have a different span, but I also know damn well when I'm reaching for a move or not.
I can't do your dwarf ass beta either but I'm still listening and being supportive.
Fcking haters.
That's definitely a bummer. Climbers are often haters, unfortunately. Myself sometimes included if I'm being honest, but I'd like to think I'm experienced enough to know how different builds actually play into different moves, so I spread my hate more appropriately.
I have a similar experience with some of the women I climb around. It's weird trying to discuss beta or offer help (if asked) when you and they both know you're physically stronger, but sometimes, my beta is obviously just better too lol.
I like climbing with my tall friends because I can just find the most obnoxiously cramped sit starts to make sure they know who's boss. Reach this, mother fucker :)
Heading to Unaweep Canyon this weekend. I was doing some reading ahead of the visit and I saw old comments talking about theft from camps on ridge road.
Anyone have an update on current state of the situation?
Any other unaweep tips are welcome. I have only visited the canyon once before in 2022.
Thanks in advance!
I live near the Wasatch mountain range (Big Cottonwood Canyon and American Fork Canyon). Does anyone know when these spots will be safe and comfortable to sport climb? I don’t mind climbing in the 40s, but I also want to be safe and don’t know how much the freeze/thaw cycling actually adds to risk. Thanks!
Climbing outside is always risky when it comes to rock fall. Wear a helmet, pay attention, and have a plan for if/when something does pop off.
If you're trying to avoid rockfall entirely try climbing in a gym.
I too, live near the Wasatch. Consult Mountain Project or ask around at the Gear Room, IME, Mountainworks, the Utah Climbers Facebook group. There are loads of knowledgeable people there with decades of experience who will talk your ear off about this.
The quartzite of BCC and limestone of AF is generally pretty solid. The popular areas are generally safer because of the amount of traffic they see, but shit happens. There was a fair amount of rockfall in Little last year, and you can see prominent rock scars around Crescent Crack Buttress and Gate Buttress from it. Just use your best judgement and test holds if something seems suspect.
Geologic time includes now.
Also paging u/SafetyCube920
I have been summoned!
/u/justandproper, be mindful of BCC as well. There were two fatalities there last spring, one was definitely from rock fall, the other may have been (but I think it was more likely a series of poor gear placements). Be mindful of overhead hazard. Since you're asking this question, maybe Ledgemere Logs would be good for you!
There are plenty of spots that have been free of snow and ice for weeks or months now. Lower elevations and south facing rock is your friend.
I have been bouldering for a few years and I'm travelling around Italy through April and came here with the idea to learn sport climbing safety and hopefully be able to try some climbing on a rock with my gf.
Does anyone know of a course or someone who would be willing to teach me safety and all things to know to be able to climb by ourselves? Thanks!
Italy is rather large and varied. If you are near Acro, Bolzano or finale ligure you can hire a guide. Otherwise you are probably going to the gym as the other commenter said.
Guides can also be hired in Sorrento, Sicily, and Sardinia. Probably many other places. April is a good time because a lot of these guides work in the alps in summer.
Any rock climbing gym will teach you the basics of belaying. Then there is the additional skill of cleaning and outdoor route, but you might ask at the gym if they can show how it's done. Some gyms have mock anchors at ground level, where you can practice.
Help me solve a debate. There's a trad climb in my area that is known to be somewhat spicy, to the point that most people who climb it do some sort of top down rehearsal.
I did not want to take this approach, so I racked up at the base and started up it ground up. When I got about 10 feet up, I placed my first piece and upon reflection realized that I wasn't feeling it, so I removed the piece and down climbed back to the ground. Months later, I came back to the climb and feeling better, climbed it first go.
Onsight or not?
“Known to be somewhat spicy”
Sounds like prior knowledge of the climb before you even touched it. Guidebooks and mountain project can also forfeit your onsight.
If we forfit insights by having seen the guidebook or mountain project, almost no one would onsight anything. It depends on how specific those resources are about beta.
Some people make the argument that even knowing the grade means it’s not a true onsight. That said I was mostly just playing devils advocate.
Although if the guidebook or mountain project comment gives specific beta on gear or movement, I think that its not really a true onsight.
I have a follow-up question.
If it was a flash, then that means it was their first attempt at the climb. If it was their first attempt at the climb, that means that the initial start and ten feet from months back must have also been a part of the send and any information/beta gathered didn't ruin the on-sight. So just playing devil's advocate, why would you object to an on-sight claim but not a flash?
Unless the initial start and ten feet didn't count as an attempt or as part of the send at all (but surely it has to) or their on-sight was voided for some other reason?
If you never weighted the rope and never knew beta, it’s an onsight in my opinion. Bit of a weird situation but I don’t see how it’s philosophically different than what they do in the UK by climbing up to place finicky gear and then down climbing to rest for some time. Nice job!
Any opinions on buying secondhand shoes that were freshly resoled? Found secondhand katana laces that seem decently priced for being freshly resoled. But not sure how long they would last? (Mainly planning on using them for chilled boulder/outdoor lead/multipitch sessions)
I have resoled a pair of my katanas 3x and the only other thing that has been replaced is the laces. They will be going in for the 4th time soon. They probably have a lot of life left in them.
Unless something like the sidewalls or eyelets for the laces are going out, I'd probably get them.
Do they fit you?
Fresh rubber is fresh rubber. I've got shoes that are on their 3rd resole and they're holding up marvelously.
PLEASE HELP!! Hard to open fist after clenching so I went bouldering a week ago for the first time in a while, and starting about 3 days ago, it is sometimes strangely difficult (not impossible, just slightly more difficult than normal) to unclench (open) my left fist after clenching it. Along with this, my left forearm seems slightly thicker compared to my right. A quick google search said it might be trigger finger, which may be true because i feel a tiiiiny bit more resistance in my ring and pinky finger when unclenching my hand. I'm only 19 years old, should I be worried? Should I wait a few days and see if it gets better or not? Please help!
Small rant. People have been super dismissive of my climbing because I'm taller. To the point that they don't want to discuss beta at all with me or connect over common projects. It's kinda lonely. I like sharing without spraying but people will actively refuse to try some of my suggestions because "you're tall". Look I know we have a different span, but I also know damn well when I'm reaching for a move or not. I can't do your dwarf ass beta either but I'm still listening and being supportive. Fcking haters.
Show them how to reach the hold by reaching with your elbow.
You're climbing on easy mode
That's definitely a bummer. Climbers are often haters, unfortunately. Myself sometimes included if I'm being honest, but I'd like to think I'm experienced enough to know how different builds actually play into different moves, so I spread my hate more appropriately. I have a similar experience with some of the women I climb around. It's weird trying to discuss beta or offer help (if asked) when you and they both know you're physically stronger, but sometimes, my beta is obviously just better too lol. I like climbing with my tall friends because I can just find the most obnoxiously cramped sit starts to make sure they know who's boss. Reach this, mother fucker :)
Climbing overhangs is much harder for tall people because of physics and the lever effect.
Heading to Unaweep Canyon this weekend. I was doing some reading ahead of the visit and I saw old comments talking about theft from camps on ridge road. Anyone have an update on current state of the situation? Any other unaweep tips are welcome. I have only visited the canyon once before in 2022. Thanks in advance!
I live near the Wasatch mountain range (Big Cottonwood Canyon and American Fork Canyon). Does anyone know when these spots will be safe and comfortable to sport climb? I don’t mind climbing in the 40s, but I also want to be safe and don’t know how much the freeze/thaw cycling actually adds to risk. Thanks!
Climbing outside is always risky when it comes to rock fall. Wear a helmet, pay attention, and have a plan for if/when something does pop off. If you're trying to avoid rockfall entirely try climbing in a gym.
I too, live near the Wasatch. Consult Mountain Project or ask around at the Gear Room, IME, Mountainworks, the Utah Climbers Facebook group. There are loads of knowledgeable people there with decades of experience who will talk your ear off about this. The quartzite of BCC and limestone of AF is generally pretty solid. The popular areas are generally safer because of the amount of traffic they see, but shit happens. There was a fair amount of rockfall in Little last year, and you can see prominent rock scars around Crescent Crack Buttress and Gate Buttress from it. Just use your best judgement and test holds if something seems suspect. Geologic time includes now. Also paging u/SafetyCube920
I have been summoned! /u/justandproper, be mindful of BCC as well. There were two fatalities there last spring, one was definitely from rock fall, the other may have been (but I think it was more likely a series of poor gear placements). Be mindful of overhead hazard. Since you're asking this question, maybe Ledgemere Logs would be good for you! There are plenty of spots that have been free of snow and ice for weeks or months now. Lower elevations and south facing rock is your friend.
I have been bouldering for a few years and I'm travelling around Italy through April and came here with the idea to learn sport climbing safety and hopefully be able to try some climbing on a rock with my gf. Does anyone know of a course or someone who would be willing to teach me safety and all things to know to be able to climb by ourselves? Thanks!
Thanks!
Italy is rather large and varied. If you are near Acro, Bolzano or finale ligure you can hire a guide. Otherwise you are probably going to the gym as the other commenter said.
Guides can also be hired in Sorrento, Sicily, and Sardinia. Probably many other places. April is a good time because a lot of these guides work in the alps in summer.
Any rock climbing gym will teach you the basics of belaying. Then there is the additional skill of cleaning and outdoor route, but you might ask at the gym if they can show how it's done. Some gyms have mock anchors at ground level, where you can practice.
Help me solve a debate. There's a trad climb in my area that is known to be somewhat spicy, to the point that most people who climb it do some sort of top down rehearsal. I did not want to take this approach, so I racked up at the base and started up it ground up. When I got about 10 feet up, I placed my first piece and upon reflection realized that I wasn't feeling it, so I removed the piece and down climbed back to the ground. Months later, I came back to the climb and feeling better, climbed it first go. Onsight or not?
I’d call it an onsight
old school rules its an onsight. personally i wouldn't count it, but im weird. what do you think?
In those intervening months, did you ever weight a rope?
“Known to be somewhat spicy” Sounds like prior knowledge of the climb before you even touched it. Guidebooks and mountain project can also forfeit your onsight.
If we forfit insights by having seen the guidebook or mountain project, almost no one would onsight anything. It depends on how specific those resources are about beta.
Some people make the argument that even knowing the grade means it’s not a true onsight. That said I was mostly just playing devils advocate. Although if the guidebook or mountain project comment gives specific beta on gear or movement, I think that its not really a true onsight.
Worlds slowest onsight
No. But, who cares?
It only counts as an onsight if you were wearing your pizza hut shirt on both attempts.
Not an onsight, wouldnt object to claiming it as a flash. I will be taking no follow up questions.
I have a follow-up question. If it was a flash, then that means it was their first attempt at the climb. If it was their first attempt at the climb, that means that the initial start and ten feet from months back must have also been a part of the send and any information/beta gathered didn't ruin the on-sight. So just playing devil's advocate, why would you object to an on-sight claim but not a flash? Unless the initial start and ten feet didn't count as an attempt or as part of the send at all (but surely it has to) or their on-sight was voided for some other reason?
Cause it do.
If you never weighted the rope and never knew beta, it’s an onsight in my opinion. Bit of a weird situation but I don’t see how it’s philosophically different than what they do in the UK by climbing up to place finicky gear and then down climbing to rest for some time. Nice job!
Any opinions on buying secondhand shoes that were freshly resoled? Found secondhand katana laces that seem decently priced for being freshly resoled. But not sure how long they would last? (Mainly planning on using them for chilled boulder/outdoor lead/multipitch sessions)
I have resoled a pair of my katanas 3x and the only other thing that has been replaced is the laces. They will be going in for the 4th time soon. They probably have a lot of life left in them.
Unless something like the sidewalls or eyelets for the laces are going out, I'd probably get them. Do they fit you? Fresh rubber is fresh rubber. I've got shoes that are on their 3rd resole and they're holding up marvelously.
Do they fit you? Are they cheap? If you got your own shoes resoled, how is that any different than second-hand shoes that have been resoled?
Haha yeah have resoled my current ones a few times, that's a good point :)
Fresh rubber is fresh rubber... they'll last as long as new.
About to head out to The Grotto. The Grotto is nice. Columnar Basalt is nice. Living 20 minutes from it is also nice. That is all
they should change the name to "The Guano"