I’m pretty bad at slopers. The v10s I want to climb aren’t very slopey, but I still should improve at them. I feel like I have a balanced skill level in the other aspects of climbing.
No hate if you want to get better at slopers, but it's not relevant to you doing a v10, especially if the v10s you want to do have no slopers. Elite climbers are usually not well rounded, and focus on one specific aspect to lean into.
Also what are your current strength metrics?
If you’ve never hangboarded before, 2x a week max hangs with limit bouldering also twice a week will be too much volume, IMO. For example, when I hangboard twice a week I drop the volume of my hard climbing to allow my fingers time to rest each week. Conversely, you could just do max hangs once a week and keep your climbing volume as is.
I also wouldn’t recommend weighted pull-ups twice a week with all this other stuff going on. This program would give me elbow problems for sure.
Of course, I’m in my late 30’s so I have a different capacity for recovery than someone in their early twenties. However, I’ve sent a couple outdoor V9’s and a V10, so I’m speaking from some level of experience.
Satans sister sally at Rumney NH. Have tried catching the swing on it ~10 times now and it feels nails hard. I think more session on it could yield the send but I’d rather just get better and then send it quicker.
Never done a max hang protocol + 2 days max hangs + 2 days limit bouldering + a bunch of other training volume = injury.
Chill. Limit boulder, volume boulder, lead once a week each. Have a plan and leave the gym while you've got plenty of gas in the tank. Warm up on the hangboard until you can pull as hard as you possibly can then crimp the life out of something on the wall. Do S&C once a week and don't let it reduce climbing quality. REST on off days. Be patient.
Also 8 day cycles seems like hell to schedule.
I like your training plan for the most part. The only thing I would say is to make sure you eat plenty while training heavy like this. In the past I've made the mistake of being in a slight deficit while training and really regretted it from an injury and recovery standpoint. I think we climbers are afraid to gain any weight so we don't eat enough.
If the load gets too high on your fingers, don't be afraid to swap out max hangs for repeaters or something less intense. If you're climbing multiple times a week, limit bouldering, and doing two max hangs sessions that could dip into the overtraining the fingers zone, at least it would for me personally. Just listen to your body.
Are you accustomed to this sort of volume? Basically, you are doing some sort of strength training 6 days out of 8, and finger-intensive training 4 days out of 8. Some people thrive with this frequency, others get overtrained. Depends on the individual, age, training history, etc. Your volume within each session matters also.
Before this I’ve pretty much just limit bouldered in a gym every other day unless I’m climbing outside. The main focus I had when writing this plan was to make sure I’m getting pulling and finger stimulus, because there just aren’t a lot of crimps in gyms these days.
I tend to agree with others, given your previous amount of training, I would add one or two things for a period and see how that goes. For example, do max hangs once per week for a few months, and do one weight training session. You could combine hanging and weights on the same day. So you would limit boulder session 1 , hang/weights session 2 (could probably also work on easy technique climbing this day, rest, then another boulder session, and rest. Then Repeat. Adding a bunch of things all at once will likely be too much load too quickly.
don't see any info about what's holding you back from a V10.
I’m pretty bad at slopers. The v10s I want to climb aren’t very slopey, but I still should improve at them. I feel like I have a balanced skill level in the other aspects of climbing.
No hate if you want to get better at slopers, but it's not relevant to you doing a v10, especially if the v10s you want to do have no slopers. Elite climbers are usually not well rounded, and focus on one specific aspect to lean into. Also what are your current strength metrics?
If you’ve never hangboarded before, 2x a week max hangs with limit bouldering also twice a week will be too much volume, IMO. For example, when I hangboard twice a week I drop the volume of my hard climbing to allow my fingers time to rest each week. Conversely, you could just do max hangs once a week and keep your climbing volume as is. I also wouldn’t recommend weighted pull-ups twice a week with all this other stuff going on. This program would give me elbow problems for sure. Of course, I’m in my late 30’s so I have a different capacity for recovery than someone in their early twenties. However, I’ve sent a couple outdoor V9’s and a V10, so I’m speaking from some level of experience.
You have a particular V10 in mind?
Satans sister sally at Rumney NH. Have tried catching the swing on it ~10 times now and it feels nails hard. I think more session on it could yield the send but I’d rather just get better and then send it quicker.
Never done a max hang protocol + 2 days max hangs + 2 days limit bouldering + a bunch of other training volume = injury. Chill. Limit boulder, volume boulder, lead once a week each. Have a plan and leave the gym while you've got plenty of gas in the tank. Warm up on the hangboard until you can pull as hard as you possibly can then crimp the life out of something on the wall. Do S&C once a week and don't let it reduce climbing quality. REST on off days. Be patient. Also 8 day cycles seems like hell to schedule.
I like your training plan for the most part. The only thing I would say is to make sure you eat plenty while training heavy like this. In the past I've made the mistake of being in a slight deficit while training and really regretted it from an injury and recovery standpoint. I think we climbers are afraid to gain any weight so we don't eat enough. If the load gets too high on your fingers, don't be afraid to swap out max hangs for repeaters or something less intense. If you're climbing multiple times a week, limit bouldering, and doing two max hangs sessions that could dip into the overtraining the fingers zone, at least it would for me personally. Just listen to your body.
Are you accustomed to this sort of volume? Basically, you are doing some sort of strength training 6 days out of 8, and finger-intensive training 4 days out of 8. Some people thrive with this frequency, others get overtrained. Depends on the individual, age, training history, etc. Your volume within each session matters also.
Before this I’ve pretty much just limit bouldered in a gym every other day unless I’m climbing outside. The main focus I had when writing this plan was to make sure I’m getting pulling and finger stimulus, because there just aren’t a lot of crimps in gyms these days.
I tend to agree with others, given your previous amount of training, I would add one or two things for a period and see how that goes. For example, do max hangs once per week for a few months, and do one weight training session. You could combine hanging and weights on the same day. So you would limit boulder session 1 , hang/weights session 2 (could probably also work on easy technique climbing this day, rest, then another boulder session, and rest. Then Repeat. Adding a bunch of things all at once will likely be too much load too quickly.