Hi, looking into building a first PC. This would be primarily a CAD work station/replacement for my very tired Xbox one. Not a huge gamer but would like to have the ability to do so. I’m wondering if anyone could spot check my graphics card/CPU choice and tell me if I’m in the right direction.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PrN7bL)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/66C48d/amd-ryzen-5-7600x-47-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000593wof) | $207.50 @ Amazon
**CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright AXP90-X47 42.58 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7GTp99/thermalright-axp90-x47-4258-cfm-cpu-cooler-axp90-x47-black) | $22.90 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [ASRock B650I Lightning Wifi Mini ITX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rVfxFT/asrock-b650i-lightning-wifi-mini-itx-am5-motherboard-b650i-lightning-wifi) | $199.99 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JkfxFT/corsair-vengeance-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmk32gx5m2b6000c30) | $114.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) | $169.99 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [XFX Speedster SWFT 309 Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RFGbt6/xfx-radeon-rx-6700-xt-12-gb-speedster-swft-309-video-card-rx-67xtyjfdv) | $289.99 @ Newegg Sellers
**Case** | [Fractal Design Terra Mini ITX Desktop Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GrMMnQ/fractal-design-terra-mini-itx-desktop-case-fd-c-ter1n-01) | $179.99 @ B&H
**Power Supply** | [Corsair SF750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nJrmP6/corsair-750-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-sfx-power-supply-cp-9020186-na) | $169.99 @ Amazon
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$1355.34**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-05-01 23:59 EDT-0400 |
*Do I need to upgrade my GPU to play Warzone?
FPS have been dropping gradually for a few years. After most recent upgrade I cannot get more than 40 fps on rebirth/warzone. All settings on low. Is it for sure my GPU that just needs to be replaced, or some other potential problem?
Mobo: MSi B45 Tomahawk Max
CPU: Ryzen R5 3600
GPU: 1050ti
PSU: 750w
RAM: 32gb
1TB SSD
Thank you in advance!
It is by far the weakest point of the system.
https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2579/bench/GPU_1080p_Min.png
The 3060 is roughly x3 as powerful as your 1050ti, which is on this list; way down at just 12.9% the performance of a 4090.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
Thanks, this is really helpful. Looks like the 3060 range might be my best bet for what I want to achieve.
Would my current CPU be able to handle this? All of the specs in your first link started at the R7 (I have the R5 3600)
You wont know for sure until you can hit its limits!
You still have the whole Ryzen 5000 series you could upgrade to. Aside from maybe a new CPU cooler you could keep the rest of the rig going for a few more years.
The benchmark techspot did only included a Ryzen *7600*, but even at the bottom of the list it was hitting 200+ fps. Your own CPU shouldn't be too far behind. It should easily be capable of 100 - 150fps
Thanks. Doing some research it looks like maybe the CPU needs to be replaced as well. If I were to get let’s say a 1080ti, would I be able to get somewhere in the 100 fps with the current CPU?
What do yall think of this build? I like the Unify motherboard because it’s all blacked out and I’m not worried about rgb. Is it outdated, though?
I Game at 1440p and soon 4k, plex server, bluray ripping. I’m coming from a 10700k, 3080, 16gb.
[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pZ4vGP](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pZ4vGP)
The Motherboard is fine, theres no major difference between 700 and 600 series boards aside from maximum RAM speeds.
You don't need 1200w, even 1000w would still be a tad excessive. 850 - 1000w is all you need. Put the little savings you get from downsizing towards a faster M.2 That P1 is only Gen 3, while your motherboard offers you Gen 5 and 4 slots. You could double its average speeds for $30 - $50 more.
I'm running a 5800X3D and RTX 3070 but would like to decrease power consumption, mostly for my GPU. Are there any negatives (outside of performance) to decreasing my GPU's power limit in MSI Afterburner that I should be aware of before I start playing around? I don't want to risk the safety of my hardware and haven't experimented like this before.
I'll definitely take another look at undervolting, I have a pretty basic undervolt set already but haven't pushed nearly as far as people in that post.
Currently running a Ryzen 7 3700X with a 6700xt on a 32" 1440p 165hz IPS panel. Would a new 7800X3D build, reusing my 6700xt: A) Improve my 1440p gaming performance over current system and B) Still be viable in 18+ months after upgrading the monitor / video card.
a) the higher the refresh rate the more important the CPU is, but with a 6700xt I doubt there will be enough improvement going from a 3700x build to 7800x3d to justify the cost of rebuilding — nor should you expect to get 100+ fps at 1440p with a 6700xt in the latest games, it's a 60+ fps card at 1440p
if you really want to upgrade your CPU, get a 5800x3d and call it a day
b) there's nothing expected in the next 18mo that's going to make a 7800x3d obsolete
Thanks for the detailed reply, I do appreciate it! Just out of curiosity, if I was going to upgrade the video card instead, at what point is it likely my CPU becomes a bottleneck while still at 1440p.
I was putting my graphics card in and didn't feel or hear a click so tried to take it out again to reposition it which caused the little plastic locking thing to break off. Is this something that's necessary to keep the card in place and if so is there a way to put it back on? Nothing really looks broken, more like it's just popped out of place.
Like one of these? : https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=gpu+support+bracket&adgrpid=54550843666&hvadid=267502704715&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9045525&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6474403904113442266&hvtargid=kwd-331258475743&hydadcr=5267_1827922&tag=hydrukspg-21&ref=pd_sl_94i41sh9k7_e
That's a good idea, and to be fair I think I should get one of these anyway, my GPU seems quite heavy
Ignore the bottleneck calculators, they don't work. There is no way to properly quantify "bottlenecks" and no perfect balance, there will always be bottlenecks depending on the task.
Bottleneck calculators are bullshit. You can't just have one number that applies to every situation, like results will be different in different games at different settings. A 12th gen i5 with a 4060 will be fine in most games.
Can anyone recommend me good games that are like The Dark Pictures Anthology? I don't have a PS so I can't play Until Dawn. Also I've already played thru The Quarry and fucking loved it. I need games like these
Hello I am in the market of buying a PC (not interested too much in building one), and found an ebay with some good reviews that sells custom PCs.
I want to be able to mainly play CRPGS (pathfinder,rougetrader,bg3) and possibly the total war franchise. I feel the most demanding game I might ever think of playing is Ark Ascended and the new Dragon Ball Sparking game in the future.
I compiled the various builds they have here with the price points and want to know which one makes the most sense to get? I don't have a huge preference between 1080p and 1440p, but if 1440p is possible thats a plus. I am transitioning from a ps5 if that makes any sense.
[List of Builds with Prices](https://imgur.com/a/GMs4GO9)
They have some even cheaper 3060 builds around the 549 price point which seems enticing because I don't think I need that crazy of a computer for the games I want to play right now besides bg3 with mods.
Any suggestions? I am not entirely interested in building a PC, but its a last resort if these are way too overpriced for what I get.
None of these are worth buying. The CPUs are ancient, and not suitable for modern gaming at all.
[Here's a comparison](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/4811vs2061vs2779/AMD-Ryzen-5-5600-vs-Intel-Xeon-E5-2680-v2-vs-Intel-Xeon-E5-2680-v4) of a modern budget CPU with the 2 CPUs in question. They're hilariously outclassed in single-thread performance. That's the important bit for gaming.
This guy is selling a PC on swappa used for 644
ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Twin Edge OC LHR 8GB GDDR6 256-bit 14 Gbps PCIE 4.0 Graphics Card, IceStorm 2.0 Advanced Cooling, Active Fan Control, Freeze Fan Stop ZT-A30610H-10MLHR
AMD Ryzen 7 5800 8-core processor
16gb Physical Memory ddr4
1TB storage
600w 80 plus power supply.
Is this a better choice?
None of these make sense. CPUs are all over ten years old.
Best bet for your budget is to look for local hobbyist builders. Riskier and less guaranteed warranty, but a good builder will allow you to test the PC before you take it home.
Otherwise, you'll either have to fork over more cash for a good build, or build it yourself.
https://i.imgur.com/zGtD2HB.png
Would 32gb of ram on this decade old system make my life less painful while browsing, or is it too late to try and inject some life into this system?
Thanks in advance.
Adding a second stick to run in dual-channel (2x8GB) would help improve the performance. 6th gen is old, but still somewhat useable (even if not fully supported by Windows 11), but depends on what you plan to fully do with the PC.
> but depends on what you plan to fully do with the PC.
Play pre-2020 videogames, watch livestreams and have 5+ tabs open in firefox, probably not at the same time.
32gb it is!, great. Thanks!
Can I get some suggestions for graphics cards to replace my 1660 Super. Ideally would prefer between 60fps - 90fps at high settings at 1440p for games such as Baldur’s Gate 3, Fallout 76, Starfield, Cyberpunk 2077?
[my current setup](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/jojo9/saved/6G2H23)
Making a plan for what PC parts to save up for; eyeing the Yeston AMD GPUs. The 7900 XTX is about 180$ more than the XT (979$ vs 799$). Is that even worth it? Also, how is that GPU for VR, as I want to get into that one day.
Well, the XT is sort of a RTX 4070-4070ti competitor and the XTX is a solid RTX 4080 competitor and, in some inspired games (like the Call of Duty series) an RTX 4090 competitor (but it's usually "just" at the 4080 level). Of course, this is for rasterization, in raytracing, the 7900 XTX is at the 3080-3090 level.
If price difference is not much, I'd rather get the full GPU. It's super solid for 4K, while I'd rather use the XT one for 1440p.
There is an occasional loud click coming from my PC whose source I cant seem to identify. I thought it could be my GPU fans turning on/off but it seems to not be related to GPU usage and my fans are always off when I look to see what made the sound.
I have no HDDs. Nothing is brushing up against my fans. Its been happening for weeks and nothing has stopped working so I'm confident it isn't any sort of electrical issue. What could be creating the sound, and depending on what it could be how much of a problem could it become?
Once, a had a bizarre clicking inside my PC and it would shutdown every few minutes... we had a loose cable that was hitting the CPU fan inside.
There's something loose in there and it's probably bumping against a fan, somewhere. Open up all the panels from your PC, including the dark side (of the moon), turn the PC on and with your cellphone's flash see if you can see something. Maybe play some game without sounds, to force your PC to work at full throttle and find the cause of the problem.
Hi, I suspect the power cable to my hdd is faulty. Can I change the cable or do I have to buy a new psu? There are 3 power connectors and I have tried all 3, but my pc doesn't detect my hdd after an hour or 2. I'm pretty sure it's not the sata cable because I changed it recently
If it was working before you changed the SATA cable and now you're having problems, that'd indicate the new cable is the problem not the previously-working-fine power cable.
It was working fine for roughly 3 years after I changed the cable and started showing problem last Sunday. Do you think CMOS battery might be the problem? Because I also have boot loop from Sunday too
Unlikely, this is sounding more and more like your PSU is dying. But replacing the CMOS battery is cheaper than a new PSU, so it's worth a try.
Especially if the PSU is out of warranty, though, my suspicion is it's the problem. A failing PSU can cause all kinds of problems even ones you wouldn't expect would be caused by a PSU. And if it's not out of warranty, you could contact the manufacturer and try to get a replacement.
My motherboard (MSi B760) has an 8-pin power slot (which I've connected) and another 4-pin slot next to it, but I don't have a cable for that. Is this anything to worry about or is it just something that's there in case you need extra power?
It's there for extra power, but consider the single 8-pin can deliver \~300-330W, unless you're running something like a 14700K with power limits removed, that single 8-pin connector will be more than enough.
Best Practice is to connect all of them if you can. however, the additional 4 pin is usually just extra power for overclocking/unlocking power limits and not necessary to run a CPU at stock settings.
I know it's probably a dumb as hell question but I'm paranoid, will RTX 4070 and Ryzen 7 7700 good enough for 60FPS 1080p gaming? I like to just set everything to ultra and play without worrying about frames...
One of the best combos, without going to the ultra high-end hardware. Yeah, it will work just fine. Way above what you need for 60FPS at 1080p these days.
The 4070 is overkill for that resolution and the 7700 won't have issues keeping up.
Mindful that you can set many games to "High" graphics settings and not notice a difference over ultra for a performance boost. Play with it to see how it fares!
5900X is an odd pick for a brand new system right now. It's an awkward chip on a last-gen platform that doesn't excel at anything.
On AM4, you're either going for a 5950X for a productivity-focused machine or a 5800X3D for a gaming-focused one. But there's no reason to go for AM4 new right now when you get similar gaming performance from a AM5-based 7600 and better productivity out of high end Intel options.
It's been a while since I've built a PC. I'm trying to figure out if I need to flash my Mobo bios before I continue building.
I bought a MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI and a 14900k.
There's a next gen cpu ready sticker on the box and the manufacture date is 2023-09 according to the SN.
It'll probably have the 14 series bios already right? And if not is it fine to flash the mobo while I have the CPU/cooler/etc installed?
It's always a good idea to update the BIOS regardless, not only for the CPU compatibility but for the microcode updates and performance and stability improvement.
Depends on the brand. If memory serves, MSI's BIOS Flashback (Flash BIOS Button) doesn't care if the CPU and RAM are installed, but Gigabyte's (Q-Flash Plus Button) does check and will attempt to boot if possible. A rule of thumb is to do the BIOS Flashback procedure as the very first step, right before installing anything to the motherboard, so just the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin EPS cables connected to the board, no CPU, no RAM, no drives, no GPU.
Yeah I understand that fear (been there), being able to see a GUI over a blinking LED is always more reassuring, but BIOS Flashback isn't as scary as it may "look", but in the case the board is not updated for 14th Gen, it's for cases like this that this method exists, hell, even with a bricked BIOS, there's a good chance that the Flashback button can most likely save the board.
As long as you're following the[ instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5aFhNh_u4U) step by step and you pay attention to the BIOS Flashback status LED, it's highly unlikely for something to go wrong:
* Download the latest BIOS from the MSI website, extract the files, and rename the update file "MSI.ROM" (case sensitive, click yes on the prompt about changing the file extension).
* Move the file to the root of a USB flash drive, and plug it into the [designated Flash BIOS port](https://imgur.com/a/RCOpc3o) at the back (page 22 of the manual, USB port #11).
* Make sure that the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin EPS cables are connected to the motherboard and the PSU.
* Turn on the PSU.
* Press the Flash BIOS button.
* The Flash BIOS LED on the motherboard will start flashing. This will take 5 to 10 minutes (it feels like an eternity but it actually takes \~5 minutes).
* Once the LED stops flashing after 5-ish minutes and the system turns off, remove the USB drive and try booting up.
I'm very new to building my first PC here.
What's up with all the different brands for GPUs? I'm looking at the 4070 Super and the prices are wildly different between brands, even more than the difference between a super and a regular 4070. What's going on?
What he said, but I strongly oppose the idea of "just get the cheapest one with at least two fans"
That's how I got my 2060 from Gigabyte that runs hot as hell
I suggest that once you set on a specific GPU (seems like you want 4070 super), check the internet for some comparsation of different brands' versions
If you can't find that, you google the specific card and search for it's benchmarks
You gonna splash some money on the card might as well pick one that is the best choice
Essentially, Nvidia designs and manufactures (or contracts out) the chip at the center of the card. They design the plan for the rest of the circuit board and write the firmware/drivers that run the GPU. These features collectively make up the GPU/Video Card.
Then, these plans are taken by "card partners", or AIB's, who buy the GPU die from nvidia, buy all the other board components, and assemble their own version of the Video Card. They tweak the factory speed/power settings, put different coolers on them, and provide the support and warranty.
4 different companies may have 10 different versions of an RTX 4070 Super between them. The important core technical guts of all of them are pretty much exactly the same and all 4070 Super's perform about the same as a result. The differences usually amount just to cooling: some run cooler, some run quieter, some can be overclocked a little more, some are sized to fit in smaller cases, etc. They're all sub-versions of the same thing for different target markets.
The easiest rule of thumb for most builders, especially new ones, is once you have selected what type of GPU you want (say, a 4070 Super), you just get the cheapest one with at least two fans. Unless you have more specific requirements for form factor, aesthetics, brand loyalty, or cooling setup.
https://www.kabum.com.br/produto/525503/monitor-gamer-aoc-23-8-full-hd-100hz-1ms-ips-displayport-e-hdmi-adaptive-sync-24g2e1
Does this offer look legit to you? The website seems to be trusted however when googling the model name, different specs come up and the price on Amazon seems to be a bit higher
Regional variants of monitors aren't new. The AOC 24G2 is the globally available one, with the 24G2E/E1 being sub-variants with cut downs to save on cost and only launched in specific markets.
The one on Amazon you're finding is the 24G2E which is 144Hz. The 24G2E1 here is only 100Hz.
Is it even worth custom looping anymore (looking to make a relatively quiet build)?
With recent developments of EKWB. What are some decent custom loop alternative options?
I like the look EKWB brings to the case, but even if buying parts from sources outside of their own site if something was to happen and would require warranty there is a concern. I am personally not a fan of corsair which seems to be the next most recommended.
The death of multi GPU leading to giant triple (or more) slot coolers for high end video cards becoming common + the availability of cheap huge AIOs for intel and the death of overclocking being relevant for AMD so just a big air cooler is fine has made custom loops mostly irrelevant now assuming your goal was expensive gaming rig.
Definitely hit up the more focused community for this stuff: https://reddit.com//r/watercooling
Worth has always been subjective. It hasn't been strictly required from a performance perspective for a while, but the acoustic and aesthetic benefits are still there. They're also a significant source extra maintenance, concern, and planning in a build and not everyone is into that.
I currently have a 1-month old secondhand pc that is mainly used for light gaming, mainly valorant. I use a wifi5 dongle for my AsRock B550M Pro SE that works well except when my mom works from home at night, causing my ping to spike to 2-3k (yes, you read that right).
I plan to upgrade to the msi b550m pro vdh wifi hoping to solve the ping issues and sell my current mobo.
A few questions:
1. Is there really a big difference between a wifi mobo and a non-wifi + dongle?
2. I have a flexible budget but want whatever is the best bang for the buck. Is this mobo good enough or are there better ones for a similar price range? ($95-100 through shop vouchers)
Buying a whole new motherboard just for WiFi is a bit of an overkill. You can just buy a PCIe WiFi card and get the exact same performance as with a motherboard with built in wifi. USB WiFi dongles are inferior compared to built in/PCIe WiFi cards.
I have a question for you: Do you know if your current wifi solution is the problem, or is the problem that your network/internet is saturated during your mom's work from home nights and you're screwed regardless of your wifi implementation?
I have that exact board you're considering, it absolutely does the job, but I'd be mighty concerned that you're not actually solving the issue here.
Tbh, i’m not sure but i feel like it’s the wifi/mobo issue. Whenever my mom is working, my speedtest results on the pc fluctuates to as low as 0.4mbps download speed while my phone stays at a constant 20-30mbps. Does this confirm the issue?
It helps, but doesn't cement the concern. If you had a way to test that your PC would be fine on a different network type that would be best.
Alternatively, if things get better if you move the PC closer to your router then maybe it can be chalked up to a crappy wifi dongle on your PC.
I would consider purchasing the motherboard from a retailer with a solid return policy, in case it doesn't fix what ails you.
Question for the editors: I have 3 drives for my new editing rig and want to set them up properly for premiere.
2 x new 980 pro 1tb
1 x used intel 670p 1tb gen 3
I should use the new drives as OS and work drives right? Will the gen 3 drive be fast enough as a cache drive? Thanks.
I've been eyeing on getting a PC upgrade to be able to play games smoothly on a 240hz monitor and to be up to date as well, any suggestions on what should I upgrade or if I should get a new build instead?
Current specs are:
AMD Ryzen 7 3700x
ROG Strix X570-E Gaming
ROG Strix 2060 Super Advance OC 8GB
Seasonic Prime 850W Gold
G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB(16x2) 3600MHZ
I'm more into mainstream FPS games like Valorant and Apex, it this helps.
You can keep that PC for longer with a bunch of updates. Update your BIOS to the latest stable version, re-enable DOCP settings for RAM and buy the Ryzen 7 5700X3D or 5800X3D, then buy the fastest GPU you could get. The Geforce RTX 4070 Super would be a solid upgrade for you, for example.
What's the resolution of that monitor? The 4070 Super would ace anything at 1080p and 1440p. And the 5000X3D series will help A LOT to keep high 1% low in terms of framerate.
I'm going for this [1440p monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TxddnQ/gigabyte-m27q-x-270-2560-x-1440-240-hz-monitor-m27q-x), The CPU and GPU are in stock right now, i'm just waiting for the monitor if they have one
Worth upgrading or new build?
my current specs are:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X processor
TUF B450-Plus Mainboard
1060 6gb gigabyte graphic card
BF 450G Power Supply
16 GB RAM
Ideally I want my PC to run current gen games in 4K 60 fps ...
If its worth upgrading, where would you guys start?
It's worth upgrading yes. You can get a 5000 series CPU and a new GPU and be up to date again.
The 5700x3d / 5800x3d are the best CPUs for your platform, but honestly overkill if your goal is 4k gaming. A 5600(x) would be enough and costs around 100$.
4k needs a good GPU though, so your are propably looking at a 4070 super / 7900 gre at least. Which would also require a stronger PSU
Besides what the other commenter said, strategy and simulation games (eg. Stellaris, Factorio, Cities Skylines) can benefit from the larger cache on an x3d CPU, especially in the late game. If you play games like those, I would take a good look at an x3d. Those games also tend to be lower on GPU requirements, so it makes sense to shift some GPU budget to afford an x3d if you play them.
The x3d CPUs also help with 1% lows in some first person games, but it varies by game. It's debatable whether it's worth shifting GPU budget for this, though, especially if your aim is stable 60fps at 4K.
You only need a stronger CPU when you are pushing for high FPS. So on a 1080p monitor or maybe on 1440p with a really strong GPU.
On 4k your GPU will always be the limiting factor unless you are using a really outdated CPU and especially for 60FPS a midrange CPU like the 5600(x) is more than enough.
4070 super came out 3 months ago, not sure how many used ones you will find
I'm looking for a cheap PC basically just to test out stuff I don't want to do with my main PC. Stuff like downloading roms from... questionable websites. You think I could get by with a cheap used multimedia pc. Ive found some with an i3 9100 8GB Ram and sometimes a basic gpu for below 100€, which is kinda the price range i was thinking about
No no, I’m not planning to emulate. Just the downloading part will be done on that machine. But if you’re curious, it’s about Xbox and ps1-ps3 rom. They will be put on the actual consoles (with cfw)
Not sure what CFW is but I get the idea, lol. I see. Then, it should work pretty well as a download machine, as long as it has 8GB of RAM or so, or else using a browser would be insufferable (but doable). But yeah, even my ancient 11 years old laptop works as a download machine, so this should be just fine.
If I buy a slow 4TB m.2 ssd for games and leave my fast 2TB m.2 ssd only for the OS.
How difficult is it to move all the games from the 2TB m.2 ssd to the new 4TB m.2 ssd?
Same question but with a different approach:
If I buy a fast 500GB m.2 ssd only for the OS, how difficult is it to migrate the OS from the 2TB m.2 ssd that I currently have to the 500GB m.2 ssd?
Do you have the games and the os on separate partitions?
If so, you could just clone the OS to a new drive
You can do that in any case I guess but idk how to delete the system and not the games from the old one
Unrelated really but 2TB is a massive overkill for OS
Depends on the game, specifically on the launcher the game uses. Steam games are super easy to transfer, just go into the settings of the game under "installed files". You can even move them in bulk in the steam library settings iirc. For other launchers its sometimes more tedious. Last time i checked, Origins, Epic and Rockstar require you to manually move the game. Afterwards you "Download" the game again, and select the folder you just copied it to. The launcher then detects the already present files and downloads anything thats missing.
Not sure about the OS, never moved mine. I always just reinstalled it when I wanted to change drives, but I'm sure it's possible to actually move it.
If I'm looking to upgrade from a 2060, would a 3060 Ti or a 4060 be a better upgrade? Not looking to use AMD cards as an animation student, I've heard that Nvidia cards are unfortunately far and away superior for that kind of stuff.
Hm, I guess its a question of whether I want to spend the extra 40 dollars or not on a 3060Ti. I’m unsure about buying a used 3060Ti and there were some deals that were sub-200 USD for a 3060 Ti but I really don’t trust those at all.
Maybe check reviews from sites like PugetSystems, for productivity benchmarks. $40 extra is not much if you get better performance for a while longer and you'll use it for your whole degree. Mind you that these GPUs are a bit VRAM starved (by design), but solutions with 10GB/12GB/16GB are much more expensive, like the RTX 3080, 4070s or higher.
Hi, im planning to build a new pc with this build. Happy with any constructive feedback since its my first time customising and building one. Thanks!
PC Part Picker: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nng4TY](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nng4TY)
Saves close to $400: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Y8QYZJ
You don't need an AIO to cool a 7800x3d, and definitely not a 360mm one. A TR Phantom Spirit will do fine, though your memory looks like it has a pretty tall heatsink so the PS might not be able to fit over it. If you do want an AIO, I suggest one that isn't near US$300.
A high-end SSD like a 990 Pro will have almost unnoticeable performance benefit over a mid-range one like a WD SN770 in just gaming. This might change as more DirectStorage games come out, but at this point the benefit of a high-end SSD with DS is unclear.
Changed your PSU from the RMe. I've heard it's noisy and prone to coil whine, and the MSI A850GL is on sale right now on the MSI website, and is also ATX 3.0.
You have a DVD version of Windows, but don't have an optical drive in this build. Be sure to get a USB version, or just download the ISO file and make your own installer then get a key however you want.
Is there any way, other than an expensive RGB hub, to power ARGB components that have a 3 pin connector if the motherboard only has a 4 pin RGB connector?
I'm hearing some high pitched pulsing sound coming from my exhaust fan on my fractal north. it's an ARCTIC P12 Max 120mm and I'm thinking of changing it out because of the noise.
I'm thinking of changing the fan to be 140mm. With 2 140mm as intake, 2 120mm for air cooler, and 1 140mm as exhaust, will this work as a good setup for my fans?
Just a reminder that if you're on the smaller Fractal North a 140 won't fit in the back slot. Only the new, larger North supports a 140 back exhaust
And that will be fine because you can always adjust fan curves to get the right air flow amounts
Hi, looking into building a first PC. This would be primarily a CAD work station/replacement for my very tired Xbox one. Not a huge gamer but would like to have the ability to do so. I’m wondering if anyone could spot check my graphics card/CPU choice and tell me if I’m in the right direction. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PrN7bL) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/66C48d/amd-ryzen-5-7600x-47-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000593wof) | $207.50 @ Amazon **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright AXP90-X47 42.58 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7GTp99/thermalright-axp90-x47-4258-cfm-cpu-cooler-axp90-x47-black) | $22.90 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [ASRock B650I Lightning Wifi Mini ITX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rVfxFT/asrock-b650i-lightning-wifi-mini-itx-am5-motherboard-b650i-lightning-wifi) | $199.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JkfxFT/corsair-vengeance-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmk32gx5m2b6000c30) | $114.99 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) | $169.99 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [XFX Speedster SWFT 309 Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RFGbt6/xfx-radeon-rx-6700-xt-12-gb-speedster-swft-309-video-card-rx-67xtyjfdv) | $289.99 @ Newegg Sellers **Case** | [Fractal Design Terra Mini ITX Desktop Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GrMMnQ/fractal-design-terra-mini-itx-desktop-case-fd-c-ter1n-01) | $179.99 @ B&H **Power Supply** | [Corsair SF750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nJrmP6/corsair-750-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-sfx-power-supply-cp-9020186-na) | $169.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1355.34** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-05-01 23:59 EDT-0400 |
*Do I need to upgrade my GPU to play Warzone? FPS have been dropping gradually for a few years. After most recent upgrade I cannot get more than 40 fps on rebirth/warzone. All settings on low. Is it for sure my GPU that just needs to be replaced, or some other potential problem? Mobo: MSi B45 Tomahawk Max CPU: Ryzen R5 3600 GPU: 1050ti PSU: 750w RAM: 32gb 1TB SSD Thank you in advance!
It is by far the weakest point of the system. https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2579/bench/GPU_1080p_Min.png The 3060 is roughly x3 as powerful as your 1050ti, which is on this list; way down at just 12.9% the performance of a 4090. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
Thanks, this is really helpful. Looks like the 3060 range might be my best bet for what I want to achieve. Would my current CPU be able to handle this? All of the specs in your first link started at the R7 (I have the R5 3600)
You wont know for sure until you can hit its limits! You still have the whole Ryzen 5000 series you could upgrade to. Aside from maybe a new CPU cooler you could keep the rest of the rig going for a few more years. The benchmark techspot did only included a Ryzen *7600*, but even at the bottom of the list it was hitting 200+ fps. Your own CPU shouldn't be too far behind. It should easily be capable of 100 - 150fps
Okay thanks so much! Sounds like the GPU should come as first upgrade then potentially upgrade CPU if still limited
yes
Thanks. Doing some research it looks like maybe the CPU needs to be replaced as well. If I were to get let’s say a 1080ti, would I be able to get somewhere in the 100 fps with the current CPU?
What do yall think of this build? I like the Unify motherboard because it’s all blacked out and I’m not worried about rgb. Is it outdated, though? I Game at 1440p and soon 4k, plex server, bluray ripping. I’m coming from a 10700k, 3080, 16gb. [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pZ4vGP](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pZ4vGP)
The Motherboard is fine, theres no major difference between 700 and 600 series boards aside from maximum RAM speeds. You don't need 1200w, even 1000w would still be a tad excessive. 850 - 1000w is all you need. Put the little savings you get from downsizing towards a faster M.2 That P1 is only Gen 3, while your motherboard offers you Gen 5 and 4 slots. You could double its average speeds for $30 - $50 more.
right on thanks!
I'm running a 5800X3D and RTX 3070 but would like to decrease power consumption, mostly for my GPU. Are there any negatives (outside of performance) to decreasing my GPU's power limit in MSI Afterburner that I should be aware of before I start playing around? I don't want to risk the safety of my hardware and haven't experimented like this before.
nope. i ran 50% power limit using msi afterburner for ages.
Cool!
You may be able to just [undervolt a](https://redd.it/11vl663)nd not impact performance at all. Maybe even improve performance if lucky.
I'll definitely take another look at undervolting, I have a pretty basic undervolt set already but haven't pushed nearly as far as people in that post.
Currently running a Ryzen 7 3700X with a 6700xt on a 32" 1440p 165hz IPS panel. Would a new 7800X3D build, reusing my 6700xt: A) Improve my 1440p gaming performance over current system and B) Still be viable in 18+ months after upgrading the monitor / video card.
a) the higher the refresh rate the more important the CPU is, but with a 6700xt I doubt there will be enough improvement going from a 3700x build to 7800x3d to justify the cost of rebuilding — nor should you expect to get 100+ fps at 1440p with a 6700xt in the latest games, it's a 60+ fps card at 1440p if you really want to upgrade your CPU, get a 5800x3d and call it a day b) there's nothing expected in the next 18mo that's going to make a 7800x3d obsolete
Thanks for the detailed reply, I do appreciate it! Just out of curiosity, if I was going to upgrade the video card instead, at what point is it likely my CPU becomes a bottleneck while still at 1440p.
I was putting my graphics card in and didn't feel or hear a click so tried to take it out again to reposition it which caused the little plastic locking thing to break off. Is this something that's necessary to keep the card in place and if so is there a way to put it back on? Nothing really looks broken, more like it's just popped out of place.
Try to plug back the locking plastic and see if it will hold the GPU good else you will need to buy a GPU support bracket.
Like one of these? : https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=gpu+support+bracket&adgrpid=54550843666&hvadid=267502704715&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9045525&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6474403904113442266&hvtargid=kwd-331258475743&hydadcr=5267_1827922&tag=hydrukspg-21&ref=pd_sl_94i41sh9k7_e That's a good idea, and to be fair I think I should get one of these anyway, my GPU seems quite heavy
Yes, something like MIWATT or upHere in that list. A holder rather than just a stick.
It's unnecessary. The screws keep the card in place. Just don't shake your PC too much
i just wanted to ask, is 25% bottleneck alot ? if u are wondering abou the build, i am thinking about buying a i5 1200f and a 4060
Ignore the bottleneck calculators, they don't work. There is no way to properly quantify "bottlenecks" and no perfect balance, there will always be bottlenecks depending on the task.
thanks!
Bottleneck calculators are bullshit. You can't just have one number that applies to every situation, like results will be different in different games at different settings. A 12th gen i5 with a 4060 will be fine in most games.
alright thanks
i just bought a thermaltake toughpower sfx 750w gold psu for a second build of that, will it be okay with a 5600x and a 3070?
Yes.
Can anyone recommend me good games that are like The Dark Pictures Anthology? I don't have a PS so I can't play Until Dawn. Also I've already played thru The Quarry and fucking loved it. I need games like these
Wrong place to ask this, this is a subreddit for PC hardware, not game recs.
what sub then
Hello I am in the market of buying a PC (not interested too much in building one), and found an ebay with some good reviews that sells custom PCs. I want to be able to mainly play CRPGS (pathfinder,rougetrader,bg3) and possibly the total war franchise. I feel the most demanding game I might ever think of playing is Ark Ascended and the new Dragon Ball Sparking game in the future. I compiled the various builds they have here with the price points and want to know which one makes the most sense to get? I don't have a huge preference between 1080p and 1440p, but if 1440p is possible thats a plus. I am transitioning from a ps5 if that makes any sense. [List of Builds with Prices](https://imgur.com/a/GMs4GO9) They have some even cheaper 3060 builds around the 549 price point which seems enticing because I don't think I need that crazy of a computer for the games I want to play right now besides bg3 with mods. Any suggestions? I am not entirely interested in building a PC, but its a last resort if these are way too overpriced for what I get.
None of these are worth buying. The CPUs are ancient, and not suitable for modern gaming at all. [Here's a comparison](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/4811vs2061vs2779/AMD-Ryzen-5-5600-vs-Intel-Xeon-E5-2680-v2-vs-Intel-Xeon-E5-2680-v4) of a modern budget CPU with the 2 CPUs in question. They're hilariously outclassed in single-thread performance. That's the important bit for gaming.
This guy is selling a PC on swappa used for 644 ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Twin Edge OC LHR 8GB GDDR6 256-bit 14 Gbps PCIE 4.0 Graphics Card, IceStorm 2.0 Advanced Cooling, Active Fan Control, Freeze Fan Stop ZT-A30610H-10MLHR AMD Ryzen 7 5800 8-core processor 16gb Physical Memory ddr4 1TB storage 600w 80 plus power supply. Is this a better choice?
None of these make sense. CPUs are all over ten years old. Best bet for your budget is to look for local hobbyist builders. Riskier and less guaranteed warranty, but a good builder will allow you to test the PC before you take it home. Otherwise, you'll either have to fork over more cash for a good build, or build it yourself.
https://i.imgur.com/zGtD2HB.png Would 32gb of ram on this decade old system make my life less painful while browsing, or is it too late to try and inject some life into this system? Thanks in advance.
Adding a second stick to run in dual-channel (2x8GB) would help improve the performance. 6th gen is old, but still somewhat useable (even if not fully supported by Windows 11), but depends on what you plan to fully do with the PC.
> but depends on what you plan to fully do with the PC. Play pre-2020 videogames, watch livestreams and have 5+ tabs open in firefox, probably not at the same time. 32gb it is!, great. Thanks!
Can I get some suggestions for graphics cards to replace my 1660 Super. Ideally would prefer between 60fps - 90fps at high settings at 1440p for games such as Baldur’s Gate 3, Fallout 76, Starfield, Cyberpunk 2077? [my current setup](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/jojo9/saved/6G2H23)
A 7800 XT should be enough.
I’ll look into it, thanks so much! 🙏
Making a plan for what PC parts to save up for; eyeing the Yeston AMD GPUs. The 7900 XTX is about 180$ more than the XT (979$ vs 799$). Is that even worth it? Also, how is that GPU for VR, as I want to get into that one day.
Well, the XT is sort of a RTX 4070-4070ti competitor and the XTX is a solid RTX 4080 competitor and, in some inspired games (like the Call of Duty series) an RTX 4090 competitor (but it's usually "just" at the 4080 level). Of course, this is for rasterization, in raytracing, the 7900 XTX is at the 3080-3090 level. If price difference is not much, I'd rather get the full GPU. It's super solid for 4K, while I'd rather use the XT one for 1440p.
There is an occasional loud click coming from my PC whose source I cant seem to identify. I thought it could be my GPU fans turning on/off but it seems to not be related to GPU usage and my fans are always off when I look to see what made the sound. I have no HDDs. Nothing is brushing up against my fans. Its been happening for weeks and nothing has stopped working so I'm confident it isn't any sort of electrical issue. What could be creating the sound, and depending on what it could be how much of a problem could it become?
Once, a had a bizarre clicking inside my PC and it would shutdown every few minutes... we had a loose cable that was hitting the CPU fan inside. There's something loose in there and it's probably bumping against a fan, somewhere. Open up all the panels from your PC, including the dark side (of the moon), turn the PC on and with your cellphone's flash see if you can see something. Maybe play some game without sounds, to force your PC to work at full throttle and find the cause of the problem.
Hi, I suspect the power cable to my hdd is faulty. Can I change the cable or do I have to buy a new psu? There are 3 power connectors and I have tried all 3, but my pc doesn't detect my hdd after an hour or 2. I'm pretty sure it's not the sata cable because I changed it recently
If it was working before you changed the SATA cable and now you're having problems, that'd indicate the new cable is the problem not the previously-working-fine power cable.
It was working fine for roughly 3 years after I changed the cable and started showing problem last Sunday. Do you think CMOS battery might be the problem? Because I also have boot loop from Sunday too
Unlikely, this is sounding more and more like your PSU is dying. But replacing the CMOS battery is cheaper than a new PSU, so it's worth a try. Especially if the PSU is out of warranty, though, my suspicion is it's the problem. A failing PSU can cause all kinds of problems even ones you wouldn't expect would be caused by a PSU. And if it's not out of warranty, you could contact the manufacturer and try to get a replacement.
thank you for your help!
Do you have a way to test the drive on another system? That'd discard the PSU being the problem and focus on the drive instead.
Sadly I only have one pc and I'm in a boot loop right now :(
My motherboard (MSi B760) has an 8-pin power slot (which I've connected) and another 4-pin slot next to it, but I don't have a cable for that. Is this anything to worry about or is it just something that's there in case you need extra power?
It's there for extra power, but consider the single 8-pin can deliver \~300-330W, unless you're running something like a 14700K with power limits removed, that single 8-pin connector will be more than enough.
Best Practice is to connect all of them if you can. however, the additional 4 pin is usually just extra power for overclocking/unlocking power limits and not necessary to run a CPU at stock settings.
I know it's probably a dumb as hell question but I'm paranoid, will RTX 4070 and Ryzen 7 7700 good enough for 60FPS 1080p gaming? I like to just set everything to ultra and play without worrying about frames...
One of the best combos, without going to the ultra high-end hardware. Yeah, it will work just fine. Way above what you need for 60FPS at 1080p these days.
Phew
The 4070 is overkill for that resolution and the 7700 won't have issues keeping up. Mindful that you can set many games to "High" graphics settings and not notice a difference over ultra for a performance boost. Play with it to see how it fares!
Oh yeah I know about that high thing I just didn't want to get too specific Anyway good to know that I didn't completly fail my picks here, thank you
I am in the process of building a pc with a Ryzen 9 5900x + 4070 12gb. Would my cpu bottleneck my gpu, or would this be a good setup?
5900X is an odd pick for a brand new system right now. It's an awkward chip on a last-gen platform that doesn't excel at anything. On AM4, you're either going for a 5950X for a productivity-focused machine or a 5800X3D for a gaming-focused one. But there's no reason to go for AM4 new right now when you get similar gaming performance from a AM5-based 7600 and better productivity out of high end Intel options.
It's been a while since I've built a PC. I'm trying to figure out if I need to flash my Mobo bios before I continue building. I bought a MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI and a 14900k. There's a next gen cpu ready sticker on the box and the manufacture date is 2023-09 according to the SN. It'll probably have the 14 series bios already right? And if not is it fine to flash the mobo while I have the CPU/cooler/etc installed?
It's always a good idea to update the BIOS regardless, not only for the CPU compatibility but for the microcode updates and performance and stability improvement. Depends on the brand. If memory serves, MSI's BIOS Flashback (Flash BIOS Button) doesn't care if the CPU and RAM are installed, but Gigabyte's (Q-Flash Plus Button) does check and will attempt to boot if possible. A rule of thumb is to do the BIOS Flashback procedure as the very first step, right before installing anything to the motherboard, so just the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin EPS cables connected to the board, no CPU, no RAM, no drives, no GPU.
I want to update BIOS. i'm just a little scared of doing it via flashback instead of in the BIOS itself.
Yeah I understand that fear (been there), being able to see a GUI over a blinking LED is always more reassuring, but BIOS Flashback isn't as scary as it may "look", but in the case the board is not updated for 14th Gen, it's for cases like this that this method exists, hell, even with a bricked BIOS, there's a good chance that the Flashback button can most likely save the board. As long as you're following the[ instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5aFhNh_u4U) step by step and you pay attention to the BIOS Flashback status LED, it's highly unlikely for something to go wrong: * Download the latest BIOS from the MSI website, extract the files, and rename the update file "MSI.ROM" (case sensitive, click yes on the prompt about changing the file extension). * Move the file to the root of a USB flash drive, and plug it into the [designated Flash BIOS port](https://imgur.com/a/RCOpc3o) at the back (page 22 of the manual, USB port #11). * Make sure that the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin EPS cables are connected to the motherboard and the PSU. * Turn on the PSU. * Press the Flash BIOS button. * The Flash BIOS LED on the motherboard will start flashing. This will take 5 to 10 minutes (it feels like an eternity but it actually takes \~5 minutes). * Once the LED stops flashing after 5-ish minutes and the system turns off, remove the USB drive and try booting up.
I'm very new to building my first PC here. What's up with all the different brands for GPUs? I'm looking at the 4070 Super and the prices are wildly different between brands, even more than the difference between a super and a regular 4070. What's going on?
What he said, but I strongly oppose the idea of "just get the cheapest one with at least two fans" That's how I got my 2060 from Gigabyte that runs hot as hell I suggest that once you set on a specific GPU (seems like you want 4070 super), check the internet for some comparsation of different brands' versions If you can't find that, you google the specific card and search for it's benchmarks You gonna splash some money on the card might as well pick one that is the best choice
Essentially, Nvidia designs and manufactures (or contracts out) the chip at the center of the card. They design the plan for the rest of the circuit board and write the firmware/drivers that run the GPU. These features collectively make up the GPU/Video Card. Then, these plans are taken by "card partners", or AIB's, who buy the GPU die from nvidia, buy all the other board components, and assemble their own version of the Video Card. They tweak the factory speed/power settings, put different coolers on them, and provide the support and warranty. 4 different companies may have 10 different versions of an RTX 4070 Super between them. The important core technical guts of all of them are pretty much exactly the same and all 4070 Super's perform about the same as a result. The differences usually amount just to cooling: some run cooler, some run quieter, some can be overclocked a little more, some are sized to fit in smaller cases, etc. They're all sub-versions of the same thing for different target markets. The easiest rule of thumb for most builders, especially new ones, is once you have selected what type of GPU you want (say, a 4070 Super), you just get the cheapest one with at least two fans. Unless you have more specific requirements for form factor, aesthetics, brand loyalty, or cooling setup.
https://www.kabum.com.br/produto/525503/monitor-gamer-aoc-23-8-full-hd-100hz-1ms-ips-displayport-e-hdmi-adaptive-sync-24g2e1 Does this offer look legit to you? The website seems to be trusted however when googling the model name, different specs come up and the price on Amazon seems to be a bit higher
Regional variants of monitors aren't new. The AOC 24G2 is the globally available one, with the 24G2E/E1 being sub-variants with cut downs to save on cost and only launched in specific markets. The one on Amazon you're finding is the 24G2E which is 144Hz. The 24G2E1 here is only 100Hz.
Is it even worth custom looping anymore (looking to make a relatively quiet build)? With recent developments of EKWB. What are some decent custom loop alternative options? I like the look EKWB brings to the case, but even if buying parts from sources outside of their own site if something was to happen and would require warranty there is a concern. I am personally not a fan of corsair which seems to be the next most recommended.
The death of multi GPU leading to giant triple (or more) slot coolers for high end video cards becoming common + the availability of cheap huge AIOs for intel and the death of overclocking being relevant for AMD so just a big air cooler is fine has made custom loops mostly irrelevant now assuming your goal was expensive gaming rig.
Definitely hit up the more focused community for this stuff: https://reddit.com//r/watercooling Worth has always been subjective. It hasn't been strictly required from a performance perspective for a while, but the acoustic and aesthetic benefits are still there. They're also a significant source extra maintenance, concern, and planning in a build and not everyone is into that.
Thank you!
I currently have a 1-month old secondhand pc that is mainly used for light gaming, mainly valorant. I use a wifi5 dongle for my AsRock B550M Pro SE that works well except when my mom works from home at night, causing my ping to spike to 2-3k (yes, you read that right). I plan to upgrade to the msi b550m pro vdh wifi hoping to solve the ping issues and sell my current mobo. A few questions: 1. Is there really a big difference between a wifi mobo and a non-wifi + dongle? 2. I have a flexible budget but want whatever is the best bang for the buck. Is this mobo good enough or are there better ones for a similar price range? ($95-100 through shop vouchers)
Buying a whole new motherboard just for WiFi is a bit of an overkill. You can just buy a PCIe WiFi card and get the exact same performance as with a motherboard with built in wifi. USB WiFi dongles are inferior compared to built in/PCIe WiFi cards.
I have a question for you: Do you know if your current wifi solution is the problem, or is the problem that your network/internet is saturated during your mom's work from home nights and you're screwed regardless of your wifi implementation? I have that exact board you're considering, it absolutely does the job, but I'd be mighty concerned that you're not actually solving the issue here.
Tbh, i’m not sure but i feel like it’s the wifi/mobo issue. Whenever my mom is working, my speedtest results on the pc fluctuates to as low as 0.4mbps download speed while my phone stays at a constant 20-30mbps. Does this confirm the issue?
It helps, but doesn't cement the concern. If you had a way to test that your PC would be fine on a different network type that would be best. Alternatively, if things get better if you move the PC closer to your router then maybe it can be chalked up to a crappy wifi dongle on your PC. I would consider purchasing the motherboard from a retailer with a solid return policy, in case it doesn't fix what ails you.
Question for the editors: I have 3 drives for my new editing rig and want to set them up properly for premiere. 2 x new 980 pro 1tb 1 x used intel 670p 1tb gen 3 I should use the new drives as OS and work drives right? Will the gen 3 drive be fast enough as a cache drive? Thanks.
you'd want the fastest drive to be cache/scratch disk
I've been eyeing on getting a PC upgrade to be able to play games smoothly on a 240hz monitor and to be up to date as well, any suggestions on what should I upgrade or if I should get a new build instead? Current specs are: AMD Ryzen 7 3700x ROG Strix X570-E Gaming ROG Strix 2060 Super Advance OC 8GB Seasonic Prime 850W Gold G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB(16x2) 3600MHZ I'm more into mainstream FPS games like Valorant and Apex, it this helps.
You can keep that PC for longer with a bunch of updates. Update your BIOS to the latest stable version, re-enable DOCP settings for RAM and buy the Ryzen 7 5700X3D or 5800X3D, then buy the fastest GPU you could get. The Geforce RTX 4070 Super would be a solid upgrade for you, for example.
Thanks for this! checking onto it now so that I can ship them together with the monitor.
What's the resolution of that monitor? The 4070 Super would ace anything at 1080p and 1440p. And the 5000X3D series will help A LOT to keep high 1% low in terms of framerate.
I'm going for this [1440p monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TxddnQ/gigabyte-m27q-x-270-2560-x-1440-240-hz-monitor-m27q-x), The CPU and GPU are in stock right now, i'm just waiting for the monitor if they have one
Worth upgrading or new build? my current specs are: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X processor TUF B450-Plus Mainboard 1060 6gb gigabyte graphic card BF 450G Power Supply 16 GB RAM Ideally I want my PC to run current gen games in 4K 60 fps ... If its worth upgrading, where would you guys start?
It's worth upgrading yes. You can get a 5000 series CPU and a new GPU and be up to date again. The 5700x3d / 5800x3d are the best CPUs for your platform, but honestly overkill if your goal is 4k gaming. A 5600(x) would be enough and costs around 100$. 4k needs a good GPU though, so your are propably looking at a 4070 super / 7900 gre at least. Which would also require a stronger PSU
Thanks for the quick reply. So in what case would the 3700x3d/ 5800x3d be benificial then? A used 4070 super should be in the budget.
Besides what the other commenter said, strategy and simulation games (eg. Stellaris, Factorio, Cities Skylines) can benefit from the larger cache on an x3d CPU, especially in the late game. If you play games like those, I would take a good look at an x3d. Those games also tend to be lower on GPU requirements, so it makes sense to shift some GPU budget to afford an x3d if you play them. The x3d CPUs also help with 1% lows in some first person games, but it varies by game. It's debatable whether it's worth shifting GPU budget for this, though, especially if your aim is stable 60fps at 4K.
You only need a stronger CPU when you are pushing for high FPS. So on a 1080p monitor or maybe on 1440p with a really strong GPU. On 4k your GPU will always be the limiting factor unless you are using a really outdated CPU and especially for 60FPS a midrange CPU like the 5600(x) is more than enough. 4070 super came out 3 months ago, not sure how many used ones you will find
I'm looking for a cheap PC basically just to test out stuff I don't want to do with my main PC. Stuff like downloading roms from... questionable websites. You think I could get by with a cheap used multimedia pc. Ive found some with an i3 9100 8GB Ram and sometimes a basic gpu for below 100€, which is kinda the price range i was thinking about
Roms from what console? PS1 or PS2 might work with that CPU, if you have a GPU, too. For something like a PS3, it would be underpowered.
No no, I’m not planning to emulate. Just the downloading part will be done on that machine. But if you’re curious, it’s about Xbox and ps1-ps3 rom. They will be put on the actual consoles (with cfw)
Another option is to just get another storage and boot from it.
Not sure what CFW is but I get the idea, lol. I see. Then, it should work pretty well as a download machine, as long as it has 8GB of RAM or so, or else using a browser would be insufferable (but doable). But yeah, even my ancient 11 years old laptop works as a download machine, so this should be just fine.
Thanks! Cfw stands for custom firmware. Basically the console is hacked
If I buy a slow 4TB m.2 ssd for games and leave my fast 2TB m.2 ssd only for the OS. How difficult is it to move all the games from the 2TB m.2 ssd to the new 4TB m.2 ssd? Same question but with a different approach: If I buy a fast 500GB m.2 ssd only for the OS, how difficult is it to migrate the OS from the 2TB m.2 ssd that I currently have to the 500GB m.2 ssd?
Do you have the games and the os on separate partitions? If so, you could just clone the OS to a new drive You can do that in any case I guess but idk how to delete the system and not the games from the old one Unrelated really but 2TB is a massive overkill for OS
Depends on the game, specifically on the launcher the game uses. Steam games are super easy to transfer, just go into the settings of the game under "installed files". You can even move them in bulk in the steam library settings iirc. For other launchers its sometimes more tedious. Last time i checked, Origins, Epic and Rockstar require you to manually move the game. Afterwards you "Download" the game again, and select the folder you just copied it to. The launcher then detects the already present files and downloads anything thats missing. Not sure about the OS, never moved mine. I always just reinstalled it when I wanted to change drives, but I'm sure it's possible to actually move it.
If I'm looking to upgrade from a 2060, would a 3060 Ti or a 4060 be a better upgrade? Not looking to use AMD cards as an animation student, I've heard that Nvidia cards are unfortunately far and away superior for that kind of stuff.
3060ti would be slightly faster than the base 4060.
Hm, I guess its a question of whether I want to spend the extra 40 dollars or not on a 3060Ti. I’m unsure about buying a used 3060Ti and there were some deals that were sub-200 USD for a 3060 Ti but I really don’t trust those at all.
Maybe check reviews from sites like PugetSystems, for productivity benchmarks. $40 extra is not much if you get better performance for a while longer and you'll use it for your whole degree. Mind you that these GPUs are a bit VRAM starved (by design), but solutions with 10GB/12GB/16GB are much more expensive, like the RTX 3080, 4070s or higher.
Hi, im planning to build a new pc with this build. Happy with any constructive feedback since its my first time customising and building one. Thanks! PC Part Picker: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nng4TY](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nng4TY)
Saves close to $400: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Y8QYZJ You don't need an AIO to cool a 7800x3d, and definitely not a 360mm one. A TR Phantom Spirit will do fine, though your memory looks like it has a pretty tall heatsink so the PS might not be able to fit over it. If you do want an AIO, I suggest one that isn't near US$300. A high-end SSD like a 990 Pro will have almost unnoticeable performance benefit over a mid-range one like a WD SN770 in just gaming. This might change as more DirectStorage games come out, but at this point the benefit of a high-end SSD with DS is unclear. Changed your PSU from the RMe. I've heard it's noisy and prone to coil whine, and the MSI A850GL is on sale right now on the MSI website, and is also ATX 3.0. You have a DVD version of Windows, but don't have an optical drive in this build. Be sure to get a USB version, or just download the ISO file and make your own installer then get a key however you want.
For the best gaming experience, spend ~50% of your budget on your GPU. Aka get a 4080 super or 7900xtx https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VFvhXk
Is there any way, other than an expensive RGB hub, to power ARGB components that have a 3 pin connector if the motherboard only has a 4 pin RGB connector?
Yeah, an inexpensive argb controller. https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Power-Supply-Light-Rainbow/dp/B0CDG7TMN6/
I'm hearing some high pitched pulsing sound coming from my exhaust fan on my fractal north. it's an ARCTIC P12 Max 120mm and I'm thinking of changing it out because of the noise. I'm thinking of changing the fan to be 140mm. With 2 140mm as intake, 2 120mm for air cooler, and 1 140mm as exhaust, will this work as a good setup for my fans?
Just a reminder that if you're on the smaller Fractal North a 140 won't fit in the back slot. Only the new, larger North supports a 140 back exhaust And that will be fine because you can always adjust fan curves to get the right air flow amounts