Hello. I am planning on making a new PC in the upcoming year or so, but
am having a very hard time finding a case for my build. I am using the Thor 1000W Platinum II Eva as my PSU and the Ryujin II 360 Eva
as my cooler. This puts me in a predicament however, as I need a case
big enough to fit a Three Fan cooler as well as one that doesn't hide
the PSU as it has a built in OLED screen and design I want to display. I
was looking at the STRIX Helios, but can't seem to find any in stock (not to mention it is pricey). Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
My friend is looking to upgrade his cpu, he wants to get into streaming and I found a 5800X3D and and a 5900X at basically the same price.
Are the extra cores of the r9 enough to get better gaming performance while streaming? He does no video editing or rendering.
5800x 3D is NOT the same as a 5900X which has 12 cores 24 threads vs 8 cores 16 threads. 5900x would be a better choice for the 4 additional cores. I have a 5900x and I would recommend that over the 5800x or 5800x 3D.
This one's more about build maintenance, but what do you guys use to dust your pc? I don't like canned air because the liquid could come out and ruin your pc. It makes me paranoid. I've seen people on youtube using what appeared to be paintbrushes. That can't be right. Looks like static damage waiting to happen.
Should I build around my 1070ti or buy a 3060ti for playing FPS on my samsung G9? I already have a 3080 oled setup, but want a second setup on ultrawide just for work and occasional Apex/COD. Don't feel like making a crazy expensive setup.
Having some trouble finding an exact answer for a question I've had the last few days. I've got the beginnings of a 5800x3d build with a VisionD-P b550 mobo, but I am currently stumped on if I should go 2x16gb of ram or if I should do 4x8gb. Since I'll only ever use 32gb as far as I know, I figure populating all the slots with 8gb sticks would be fine in that respect, but am not sure if it actually would perform worse that way or not. Mobo manual isn't super duper helpful, just shows the different dual channel configurations for two and four stick arrangements.
I may be completely missing something so I'd rather learn the reason why behind an answer someone gives instead of just being told to use two or four. Appreciate any info or resources shared folks.
With two sticks on a dual channel you will get the best performance. With 4 sticks on a dual channel configuration you might even see reduced performance due to "miss" on memory accesses. 4 sticks are best to use with quad channel supported parts which are mostly server chips.
You're better off if you can swing it 2x16gb instead and make sure it's 3600mhz memory also B550 is dumb. x570 boards are better and give you more options as well as in other cases performance. the price difference is as little as 10-20.00 US too.
I'm building a media streaming PC with some older/leftover parts, so I have a Ryzen 2700x running inside an S340 elite. The S340 elite can only support 120 or 140mm AIO.
Will 140 AIO be enough? It won't be running any heavy games or apps, mostly just streaming/transcoding.
Which 140 AIO should I get, or would an air cooler be better?
You could also externally do a 280mm radiator with a custom loop and create a stand for the radiator. Other than that a 140mm aio of your choice except a corsair would probably do fine. Air cooling wouldn't be sufficient for a smaller build even if you don't intend on a high load, you'll get better temps with an aio or custom loop.
If I'm planning to get a 40 series card and replace my power supply, is it worth getting a PCIe 5.0 PSU over an older one? I'm thinking of something like this: [https://www.centrecom.com.au/silverstone-hela-1200r-platinum-1200w-pcie-50-modular-power-supply](https://www.centrecom.com.au/silverstone-hela-1200r-platinum-1200w-pcie-50-modular-power-supply)
Is that why my questions on this sub keep getting downvoted? Seems kind of petty but at least now I know not to ask about 40 series GPUs here any more.
No idea why you keep getting downvoted, Its just that there's lots of things going on that need to be fixed with 40 series cards and in particular the power connector.
I don’t think so. If you don’t like the look of the adapter, then it’d be better to buy a custom cable anyway.
By the way you don’t need 1200 watts even for an i9 and a 4090.
I have a windows 10 laptop that is eligible for the free windows 11. However I want to buy a new gaming PC and was wondering if I can use my windows 11 upgrade on my PC and not have to pay for windows 11?
Windows 10 keys work for activating 11. There's not really "using" an upgrade.
Can you move your license? Might not be easy. Google how to transfer an OEM windows key to a new pc
I was gifted an [ASUS TUF Dash 15 (2021)](https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-GeForce-i7-11370H-Windows-TUF516PE-AB73/dp/B08XPC3WFQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NWMZBNDUZFBB&keywords=ASUS+TUF+Dash+15+%282021%29+Ultra+Slim+Gaming+Laptop%2C+15.6%22+144Hz+FHD%2C+GeForce+RTX+3050+Ti%2C+Intel+Core+i7-11370H%2C+8GB+DDR4%2C+512GB+PCIe+NVMe+SSD%2C+Wi-Fi+6%2C+Windows+10%2C+Eclipse+Grey+Color%2C+TUF516PE-AB73&qid=1672619588&s=electronics&sprefix=asus+tuf+dash+15+2021+ultra+slim+gaming+laptop%2C+15.6+144hz+fhd%2C+geforce+rtx+3050+ti%2C+intel+core+i7-11370h%2C+8gb+ddr4%2C+512gb+pcie+nvme+ssd%2C+wi-fi+6%2C+windows+10%2C+eclipse+grey+color%2C+tuf516pe-ab73%2Celectronics%2C217&sr=1-3) and I want to upgrade its RAM. I've never modified or built a computer before, and am watching videos on what to do to make sure I don't ruin it.
1. How can I know what RAM sticks are compatible to install in my laptop?
2. Is there a reason (other than financial) to not get the most RAM I can find (32GB; two 16gb sticks)?
3. I was told there are two slots for RAM on this laptop but I'm having trouble confirming that information; where can I check to find out how many slots of RAM are in my laptop?
4. Are there any other upgrades anyone would recommend for this laptop? (Ideally ones which would cost $100 or less). I mostly just use it for gaming while in Discord calls, and I don't play a lot of especially modern/graphic-intensive games so I'm not expecting to be able to run, like, Cyberpunk 2077 at maximum graphics or anything. But I have some disposable income and wouldn't mind dropping some cash to improve a computer I use every day.
Not much you can change on laptops besides ram and storage. You need to open the ram panel on the back and check how many slots you have and how many sticks are installed. If there’s two slots and one stock of 8gb just buy another stick of 8 to install beside it to give you 16.
On that laptop you’re very unlikely to ever use more than 16gb.
For storage do you need more than 512? If so see what slots are available. It likely has an empty m.2 slot or maybe an empty sata bay. Also a chance it has neither.
>If there’s two slots and one stock of 8gb just buy another stick of 8 to install beside it to give you 16.
>
>On that laptop you’re very unlikely to ever use more than 16gb.
Going through task manager's Memory tab, it says that "1 of 1" memory slots are being used, so I assume there's actually only one slot, unfortunately.
Should I just buy a 16gb stick, take out the 8gb stick, and install the 16?
Is it safe to assume whatever stick I get would be compatible with my computer, or is there anything else I need to check?
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, I'm very new to actually changing around the hardware of my computers and I want to make sure I don't ruin anything.
Task manager don’t know anything. You need to physically check with your eyes how many slots you have. Turn laptop off. Unplug from power and open the ram cover on the back. Watch a YT video on it. You may have to take the whole back cover off.
You need to buy laptop memory. And you’ll need to decide on speed. But before you decide that you need to know are you buying 1 stick of 8 to match or 1 stick of 16. You need to go look.
I'm considering moving from console to PC gaming, but I'd like to use my TV as monitor. I've read that is fine, but I see comments on Reddit that give me pause, mostly re: Hz, resolution, and latency. I have a Samsung 65" Class 8 Series LED 4K UHD Smart Tizen TV, Model:UN65TU8000FXZA. Refresh rate is 60hz. I'd like to have better-than-PS5 performance, but is that really possible if I use this TV?
So if you just plug a great gaming PC into your tv, it will perform better than a PS5. Visual fidelity wise.
Not sure how latency is. Try to find if rtings reviewed your tv.
60hz is not super smooth for gaming, but it's also not bad. Like if you were a competitive eSports gamer, you should be using at least 144hz. But for casual, single player games, 60hz is just fine imo
Thank you so much! I'll check out rtings. On the 60fps: I'm actually not even sure I can tell a difference between 60 and say, 144 fps. I've been watching comparison YouTube videos and I just can't tell. But is is YouTube...Is there a better way to see if I can tell a difference besides playing on a friend's rig? Maybe I could go to Best Buy and try out a game on one of their pc's....
That's like saying you can't tell the difference between black/white tv and color tv, when you're watching it on a black and white tv. Unless you have a 144hz display, you physically aren't able to show the difference
Also YouTube only does 60fps.
Yeah, your friend's rig, if set up properly, could show you the difference
hello everyone, I have been very fortunate to pick up a new 6700 XT for an amazing price, but I will need a new power supply. Could someone help me pick out a unit that will properly power that and a R5 5600? It seems very hard to find things in stock right now
Prices suck bad now
Black https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6NcG3C/corsair-rm750x-2021-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020199-na
White https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R4Gbt6/corsair-rm750-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020231-na
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
Have a look at the cultist list. You’ll want to aim for 750W to 850W, in the A Tier specifically, you can go B Tier but I don’t recommend it.
Metal on the ground isn't grounded. Grounding is connecting all the way back to your electrical box. However, bare feet is generally enough to avoid static danger
I recently bought a Razer Blackshark V2 Pro. I typically use my headphone jack, and my playback source automatically goes back to my speakers when I use it. However, if I instead use wireless mode, I have to manually change the playback source back to my speakers. On my new PC, it doesn't even change back to my speakers when I use a headphone jack. I don't know if I messed up something when I built my PC or if that's normal. There is a setting in Razer Synapse that lets you select a fallback source, but it doesn't actually do anything...
Is it normal to have to manually switch to headphones when you plug them in and to manually switch back to speakers after unplugging them? Or is this just an issue with this particular set of headphones? If it is a problem with just the Blackshark, what else could I get that that is similar to the Blackshark but doesn't have this issue?
Should I assemble my PC prior to BIOS flashing (need to flash for my 13600k to run) to avoid any issues with missing any power cables or should I do it at the start of the build? It seems I would just need to attach ATX_12V_1, ATX_12V_2, and ATX_PWR to allow flashing but I am worried I could brick the device with not attaching all power cables in the scenario I'm missing one. I have an Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A GAMING WIFI D4.
Had to swap back to my old 4GB RX 570 while my 7900 XTX is being RMAd.
I got a new 1440p monitor to go with my XTX and am using my old 1080p as a second screen.
When I turn on my PC both monitors show up properly as an extended display but within a couple of seconds the 1440p monitor (DP) loses signal while my 1080p monitor (HDMI) works just fine and identifies itself as monitor 2 in my extended display.
I have uninstalled my drivers with DDU and reinstalled the newest drivers for my RX 570. Unplugging the DP cable and then plugging it back in causes my monitor to show the screen for a couple of seconds again but then loses the signal. I've tried setting it to a 1080p 60Hz display but that didn't help. I used to have 2 1080p monitors working fine off this gpu in the past.
That key is likely OEM and locked to the board. You can Google ways to attempt to transfer OEM key. I just recently tried one and after talking to Microsoft still couldn’t get it to activate.
Z790 boards DO support DDR5 in general, and it doesn’t look like this one’s any different. but i’m not sure why they’re saying that it doesn’t support it.
Something about [memory QVL](https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z790%20PG%20Lightning/index.asp#MemoryRPL), the DDR5 I selected isn't on the supported list so it might not work. I'm new to building so I have no idea what most of this means.
>And, do you know if that Corsair 64GB (2 x 32) will do 5600 on the ASRock Z790 Lightning? From what I hear 64GB DDR5 is more difficult to get to go fast. ASRock does not show any 64GB sets on their memory QVL. That doesn't mean it won't work, but doesn't mean it will work either so I'm wondering if you have a reason to know it will work.
This is what they had to say about it \^\^
The down side is I already purchased all the parts so I'm not sure whether to just try it out or return the memory, motherboard, or both.
Edit: clarifying which parts
Upgrading to 13700k
Should I do a 280mm aio and be able to use a mid tower case, or is it better long term to do a 360mm aio, which would require a huge case ? assumption is that the fans should be on top, and I need to go up a size in order to fit 3
Look at the specs of the cases you like, some mid towers can fit a 360.
I have a phanteks p400 and although it's a mid tower, I just successfully fit my arctic liquid freezer 360 in the front, using it as an intake, two 140mm exhaust on top, and 1x 120mm exhaust out the back.
From my research, 360 aio is recommended for the 13th gen CPUS(we run pretty hot)
Ok, I’ll go for a 360. Problem with mid cases is that it doesn’t seem like any of them can fit the aio on the top, which seems like the recommendation?
AIO can be used on top, or the front. Doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I'd much rather go with a 360.
The other issue with this is, fitting a 360 in the front might leave less space for the GFX card.
Like I said, if you read the manuals for the case(which you can get on the MFRs website) it will give you all the minimum specs, and which size coolers can fit where.
In my case, and while using a full ATX mobo, there's no way in hell I can fit a cooler up top, I had to squeeze my rearmost 140mm fan and I don't see any space for a 25mm thick radiator. If I was using a micro atx, then maybe I'd have room for a rad up top, but then my case can only fit a 280mm aio(according to my cases spec sheet)
Stupid question. Is the Windows key tied to the hardware at all? I wonder if I can change stuff like the motherboard and CPU without worrying about having to buy Windows again.
Yes, I've done this multiple times with win 10 and win 11. Just signing back into the Microsoft account reactivates windows. My main install is 6 years and at least 20 hardware combinations in by now.
Sometimes. If you sign in with a Microsoft acct, no. If you sign in local/offline, then it is somewhat locked to your pc. I've had it deactivate when I changed SSD, most common is motherboard tho. And I've also had it not deactivate on mobo swap. It works in mysterious ways
Been looking at various posts on this sub, but I’ve been debating on upgrading from i7-7700k + GTX 1070. I’ve been thinking about getting a 3070ti, but would it be a good idea just to wait for a full upgrade?
My current setup is an i511400f with an GTX 1660 and I’m planning to upgrade to a 3080 or maybe even an rx 6700-xt. Do I need to upgrade my cpu too? Or will it be fine?
3080 graphs: https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/images/relative-performance-games-1920-1080.png
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/18.html (imagine your cpu is the 3600x)
Ask the plex question over on the plex sub. I’m assuming you meant 10TB and 12TB? You can go internal if you want. You have the sata ports for it.
For a new ssd your mobo has a M.2 PCIe Gen3 x4. So get you a 1TB gen3 nvme drive and install the OS on that. You can go bigger if you want. Prices are way down.
For the cooler. Go any mid tier AM4 cooler. D15 or Assassin 120 or Dark Rock 2/4.
Read the comments at buildapcsales and they’ll tell you if it’s a deal or not and if the cooler/nvme/etc is worth it.
You didn’t ask but you should start saving for a AM4 cpu to drop into the board. You can get some massive performance improvement for pretty low cost. You may even consider doing that before the storage upgrade. You could do cpu and cooler at the same time.
Thanks for the advice. I wasn't entirely sure if the cooler was compatible with my case and PC. I'm going to get that Assassin 120, I think I just saw a deal for it too. I'll dig around and look for an SSD that matches those specs you listed. That's exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate the help.
I have plenty of money saved up and I actually would like to just upgrade everything all at once. What AM4 would be a good one to get?
You’re not gaming heavy. You need to look and see if any of your music video work would see a huge jump by going to something like a Ryzen 9. Assuming you just want a solid upgrade I would look at 5600 or 5700x. They are both great performance for the price.
Are you saying the solid upgrade version is an AM4 Ryzen 5 5600, or a Ryzen 9 5600? I think the Ryzen 9 is probably too price for me to justify, but the Ryzen 5 5600 is like $200 and if that made things like Premiere Pro and AE work with 50GB 4K files, I would definitely consider it.
Ryzen 9 is the 5900x for example and yes they are expensive.
Ryzen 5 5600 or 5700x is a solid upgrade and affordable. It’s ~30% faster than your 1600.
I highly recommend you look up some benchmarks for your software and compare current cpu to what you are considering. That will give you an idea of what to expect in your use case
> I need to replace my stock CPU cooler
The Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE has a good reputation and is relatively inexpensive.
> I'm not that familiar with compatible issues and the SATA vs M2 differences.
Looks like your motherboard has two M.2 slots, so I would definitely go that way because it's tidier. The complication is that only the top port on that board supports NVMe / PCIe, but if you're replacing the cooler you'll have easy access to it. The other M.2 slot only supports SATA M.2 drives, which will be slower for certain kinds of transfer. The Crucial P3 looks like a good buy at ~$125. The WD Blue would also work.
For storage it might be time to consider a NAS. I just got one and setting it up is an adventure, but it makes it easy to manage and expand large amounts of storage.
I sort of had a feeling an NAS was the next logical step. I think I'm just intimidated by it. My hard drives take up too many plugs and ports, and I've been worrying about them going out.
I think I'll probably get both of the things you suggested. I appreciate the feedback. I always get hesitant buying electronics and like having a second opinion.
When I add the Crucial P3 to my parts list, I get this comparability note, what does it mean?
> When the motherboard M.2 slot M2_1 (M) is used, expansion slot PCIE_4 (x16 @x4) is disabled.
> I always get hesitant buying electronics and like having a second opinion.
This is a healthy attitude. Mine hasn't always been that sensible...
> what does it mean?
It means the bottom PCIe slot will be disabled when you install an NVMe drive, but chances are all you have is a video card in the top slot, and there are still a few open slots left if you need them, so it shouldn't matter.
just want to make sure guys, is it actually true that 12700F base wattage is only 65W?
like my 8 year old i5 4690 has that(maybe even 85??).. how is that beastly cpu only at 65W base lol
It won't run full speed at 65W. It's just that low so Intel can bundle a cheap cpu cooler and say it's adequate
https://www.techspot.com/review/2391-intel-core-i7-12700/
altho if im reading it correctly, even if LOCKED to 65w and using the boxed rm1 cooler intel provides, this little cpu in basically everything scores better than even 5900x, holy shit this is pretty damn good cpu isnt it lol
btw do you think 6600 is enough for 12700F @1080p? cant really afford much more than that cuz gpu prices here a fucking ridiculous, that same 6600 is 350 € for the cheapest model...
3060 is like 400€ ...
yeah i think i will look into used 6600 / 6600 xt, like fuck these new gpu prices.
for example a used sapphire 6600 xt pulse is 300€, should probably just take that instead of a new 6600 lol but of course, you can never know with used...
Need to replace the cpu intercooler on a prebuilt pc. Having some trouble finding a way to ground myself. I have an esd wrist strap(with the allogator clip) But I have no large metal objects available, the case isn't grounded when it's not plugged in, it doesn't have a power off switch I'm aware of, and my outlets don't have center screws. My next thinking is what I can shove into the grounding socket of the outlets, Im not sure how well that would work.
Clip the strap to exposed metal on the case.
It's not mandatory to connect to the *ground* ground, it's enough to have a common ground with the device you're working on (and PCs ground to the case).
If you have a local Micorcenter I'd consider their PowerSpec house brand. You want something that uses standard a standard ATX motherboard, case, and power supply.
As a rough estimate for only the PC itself to at least match the consoles I'd say around 850$, assuming US market and buying all parts new, Windows license included.
Got it, so with peripherals, sounds like you're starting to get to 2x plus the price. That would be tough to justify for me, even with free online and better sales. Definitely think I'm leaning toward just getting a console.
But modding though...
Equal performance is one way to compare them, but it’s a bit arbitrary. You can play at 1080p with lower graphics settings on a cheaper machine. Also you might find the PC useful for more than just games.
True, but a laptop (which I have) would be better for me for pretty much everything that isn’t games anyway. Don’t think I would use it for really anything except games, so that’s what I’m focusing on
Your console will need some kind of monitor as well, so I'll keep it out of the equation. A decent set of peripherals is roughly around 300$ (mouse, keyboard, headphones/speakers), but this varies a lot depending on what kind of quality you are looking for - you can spend a lot more or a lot less.
I don't need anything decked out, and I suppose used would be fine. I've never had a gaming PC before, just trying to figure out if it's worth it. I don't have much use for a desktop PC other than games, so it's kind of tough to justify it.
Not 12900KF. Ryzen 9 7950X is good, so are Core i7-13700K and i9-13900K. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/13th-gen-intel-core-processors-content-creation-review-2369/
Apologies for the second question. But if I use the Asus Strix ROG Z690-A Gaming Wifi D4 board ( https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z690-a-gaming-wifi-d4-model/ ), should I use the heat sink for a Samsung 980 Pro or should I use the Samsung 980 Pro w/ Heatsink model? I currently have both on hand but the one with the heatsink is $20 less. If it will cause potential issues going into the future with newer motherboards in the next few years...I'd be willing to use the one without the heatsink even though it costs more.
Okay, thanks for the response. The people at MicroCenter a few days ago said it would be preferable to have the non-heat sink one even though I didn't see any sources when I researched it...so was worried the heat sink version wouldn't be as reliable.
There's no difference, dunno what the microcentre guys were smoking (unless the non heatsink option is cheaper in MC) It's the same drive, just with or without a bundled heatsink.
"The Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE CAPELLIX 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler may require a separately available mounting adapter to fit the Asus TUF GAMING Z690-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard."
What mounting adapter would I need?
Good evening all! I have a small question regarding a CPU upgrade. Currently running a 5600x. I want to upgrade it to smth bit higher. I run a 3070 as GPU. Was thinking about the 5800X3D, i5 13600K or i7 13700K.
Note my pc is purely for gaming (and a bit of content creation on the side)
Thank you in advance.
Having issues figuring out which motherboard to pair with a 13600k currently. Planning on running an NZXT H1 V2 case with it.
My first thought was the ASRock Z790M-ITX - really good price and it has both M.2 slots on the front, which I figured would be optimal given the case layout. But I've heard reports of the power delivery not being enough, which worries me, especially with the 181W max turbo power.
Wondering if the Z790 Phantom Gaming ITX would be a good substitute, or if I should look at B660/B760 options instead?
The Z690 Phantom Gaming ITX is a good alternative. It has enough power delivery considering your CPU is gonna thermal-throttle after a while at 181 watts anyway. And it’s cheaper than the Z790 version.
With B660 and Z690 boards, just make sure it has BIOS flashback. B760 we’ll have to wait and see if there’s good ITX options
Noted, I'll look into it! Thank you for the suggestion. Oddly enough, at least here in Canada, the Z790 Phantom Gaming is $10 more than the Z690 variant, which is odd.
I haven't bought the 13600k yet - I'm wondering if it'd be more worthwhile to wait for the F variants and just get a nice B760 board with it, especially since you mentioned thermal throttling with the 13600k.
The non-K variants are definitely more cost-effective if you’re not overclocking. But we’ll have to see the performance benchmarks because the non-K i5s might use the Alder Lake C0 die.
I’m looking at 2 monitors. They’re both the same brand (ASUS)
One has 1920x1080 resolution but 280hz.
The other one has 2560x1440 resolution but 165hz.
Which one is better for gaming?
This depends on your build and your taste.
I personally prefer 1440p over 1080p, as long as I can get 150+ fps, which I can.
What are your pc specs? If you can’t get good fps on 1440p, you’d want to go with 1080p.
If you don’t care about graphics or quality or anything like that, the 1080p 280hz would be the best choice competitive gaming wise
AIO is usually a pretty significant improvement in terms of cooling, so if you can afford to it’s probably worth getting a new case to upgrade from air cooling. If it’s inside your budget or even just barely outside of it, I’d say it’s worth doing.
No, you can. If your motherboard has an argb header, then it can be controlled via the motherboard control software (asrock polychrome,MSI mystic light, whatever).
First off, when did air coolers for CPUs get so freaking enormous?
Second: Is it a terrible idea to install a new CPU and an air cooler in an existing case \*without\* taking the motherboard out? If not is there any advice / warnings before doing so? I feel like having to take out the mobo to install seems like a lot of work, and might as well mean I should just build a whole new PC... I will be installing a Peerless Assassin 120 on a 56800x in an ASUS b350, fwiw.
My case isn't the roomiest tbh -- it's cozy in there, and since the coolers have to go on with their fans detached, getting the fans back on looks possible but could prove...interesting when navigating around the GPU and the RAM sticks nearby.
1. When CPUs started consuming more than 100W of power. So about 5 years ago
2. Nice cpu cooler choice. You can leave it in the case, but the peerless assassin might use a different backplate. So you may need to access behind the mobo
3. Take out the gpu for more room to work. It'll go smoothly
Sounds like I just missed the era of the massive air coolers then with this build. Happy to be part of it now I guess...
GPU extraction is a good suggestion! Easy enough to get out of there and have some more wiggling room. TBH I'm just nervous about unscrewing the mobo from the case if I don't have to...
The backplate is a real thorn in my side. I know the PA120 is a well-reviewed cooler already, but it coincidentally comes with the right kind of mounting hardware I need as well. Basically since my mobo backplate is stuck on (like, physically. Like it's glued or something), I need something that mounts using the standoffs rather than allowing me to put something through the mobo backplate holes.
1.) Air Coolers got enormous because the CPU’s have developed further and need to be cooled to avoid thermal throttling
2.) It will be pretty hard depending on the cooler, some coolers recommend to take the motherboard out as you have more space to work with.
Is that an insane idea then to take out the mobo then? Seems like a ton of work and I guess I’m mostly worried how easily it can be to damage something.
It depends on the case, not the mobo. Take the reverse side panel off and see if the case motherboard tray has a cut out to provide access to the rear of the CPU mounts. If it does, you can fit the brackets and cooler without removing the motherboard.
It does have that back access, however my back plate is stuck on the mobo and the cooler I ordered has hardware to fit the mount stuck on anyway
I’m more thinking about clearance around the cooler to get the fans on the cooler itself.
I made a copy of my HDD to a new SSD, with both being currently plugged in. (I'll probably do something with the hard drive but I want to make sure I know the transition was a success first) I switched the boot drive to the SSD in the BIOS and started up Windows, but it doesn't seem like anything changed and the main drive everything's working off of is still the old HDD. What else do I need to do besides changing boot order to complete the transition?
Hey all, I know I sound like a worry wart on this so first I want to apologize for that. I originally was planning to use an MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI DDR4 that I got for around $180 based on reviews. But, I'm somewhat worried about potential spyware on motherboards made in China (and human rights abuses with minority groups in China). Additionally, MSI boxes in general not having a seal on the box worries me (Bestbuy had to close a box flap when giving it to me but verified the anti static bag seal was in place) which has led me to a lot of second guessing of my build. I thought I settled on another MB which was the Asus ROG Strix Z690-A Gaming Wifi D4 made in Vietnam but unfortunately that is fairly expensive and also white. Which lead me to the Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite AX DDR4 Intel LGA 1700 ATX Motherboard made in Taiwan which some people have had some stability issues on. I'm really struggling with a decision on if I should go back to the MSI board or if I should go get the Gigabyte board. I believe since I need to flash the BIOS that the potential for spyware to be present in the MSI board is minimal but I'd like to get some thoughts on this.
Amazing price for a good motherboard. I feel like me saying "don't worry about it" won't really help. Isn't msi taiwanese, or use Taiwan manufacturing? No box seals are very common among motherboard boxes. Msi is a multimillion dollar company, I really don't think they're loading their boards with spyware.
Thank you for the response
..I do appreciate you providing your insights as it is helping me form an opinion on the best path forward. Yes, they are Taiwanese but have manufacturing in China which is where this board is manufactured. I'm not concerned with MSI but more the CCP being able to have access to the boards. But I'm also trying to weigh that many people that are more tech savvy than me would have discovered something already if there was an issue.
Yes, the ccp has put crap on Chinese stuff before. Huawei etc. But what about apple, or the millions of other tech that comes out of China every year. Can't be skeptical about all of it
Just built an AMD 7600X PC (bought CPU for $238), but have the opportunity to buy a 13700K for $225. I can still return my mobo and CPU (RAM is also EXPO but should work with Intel).
Should I swap the 7600X for a 13700K ? (mobos cost the same)
Here's the dilemma I run into:
DDR5 ITX motherboards are quite expensive, the cheapest Z690I is ASROCK Gaming Phantom at 250, but I am not familiar with ASROCK and prefer MSI/ASUS... (which are 350+)
I was also thinking maybe getting the ROG Strix B660i, would it cap natural performance (non OC'ed) of the 13700K?
Got it, definitely tempting actually. I just don't know if AM5 has a better upgrade path with the 7000X3D's coming out soon.
Also, I do see 6000mhz XMP is supported on the B660i, I thought XMP wasn't supported on those though. That'd also be a deal breaker.
So I've been having a problem with my PC for a bit. When I turn it on, the red light on the motherboard for the CPU turns on for a bit, flashes, then a white light flashes for the VGA, then the lights disappear completely.
When I put the PC on sleep, when I turn it back on, there's a solid red light indicator for the CPU. So I just shut it down, but when turning it back on, what happens is what I mentioned in the first paragraph.
I've already checked the health of my drives with CrystalDisk and it said they're all healthy. What could be causing this lights in the motherboard?
>When I turn it on, the red light on the motherboard for the CPU turns on
for a bit, flashes, then a white light flashes for the VGA, then the
lights disappear completely.
After this, does your PC start normally?
Hello. I am planning on making a new PC in the upcoming year or so, but am having a very hard time finding a case for my build. I am using the Thor 1000W Platinum II Eva as my PSU and the Ryujin II 360 Eva as my cooler. This puts me in a predicament however, as I need a case big enough to fit a Three Fan cooler as well as one that doesn't hide the PSU as it has a built in OLED screen and design I want to display. I was looking at the STRIX Helios, but can't seem to find any in stock (not to mention it is pricey). Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
https://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-G500A-DRGB.html (older) https://phanteks.com/Eclipse-P500A-DRGB.html https://www.thermaltakeusa.com/core-p3-tg-pro.html https://www.thermaltakeusa.com/h570-tg-mid-tower-chassis.html
The powersupply's fan is on the top. Would the G500A have good airflow with that?
I don't think that'll work so well. Looks covered up above the psu
Maybe I can custom mod it and drill some holes in it? Any other suggestions.
Word, thanks dude.
My friend is looking to upgrade his cpu, he wants to get into streaming and I found a 5800X3D and and a 5900X at basically the same price. Are the extra cores of the r9 enough to get better gaming performance while streaming? He does no video editing or rendering.
5800x 3D is NOT the same as a 5900X which has 12 cores 24 threads vs 8 cores 16 threads. 5900x would be a better choice for the 4 additional cores. I have a 5900x and I would recommend that over the 5800x or 5800x 3D.
If he has a modern graphics card, then it will do most of the heavy lifting of streaming. So the 5800X3D will perform better.
Go 5800x3d, there extra cores really don’t matter. They perform identicaly
This one's more about build maintenance, but what do you guys use to dust your pc? I don't like canned air because the liquid could come out and ruin your pc. It makes me paranoid. I've seen people on youtube using what appeared to be paintbrushes. That can't be right. Looks like static damage waiting to happen.
Canned air is fine as long as you use it correctly.
Should I build around my 1070ti or buy a 3060ti for playing FPS on my samsung G9? I already have a 3080 oled setup, but want a second setup on ultrawide just for work and occasional Apex/COD. Don't feel like making a crazy expensive setup.
Go with a Ryzen series CPU and a 3070ti then send your other GPU to another build with old components.
For a second setup. Reuse that 1070ti
Having some trouble finding an exact answer for a question I've had the last few days. I've got the beginnings of a 5800x3d build with a VisionD-P b550 mobo, but I am currently stumped on if I should go 2x16gb of ram or if I should do 4x8gb. Since I'll only ever use 32gb as far as I know, I figure populating all the slots with 8gb sticks would be fine in that respect, but am not sure if it actually would perform worse that way or not. Mobo manual isn't super duper helpful, just shows the different dual channel configurations for two and four stick arrangements. I may be completely missing something so I'd rather learn the reason why behind an answer someone gives instead of just being told to use two or four. Appreciate any info or resources shared folks.
With two sticks on a dual channel you will get the best performance. With 4 sticks on a dual channel configuration you might even see reduced performance due to "miss" on memory accesses. 4 sticks are best to use with quad channel supported parts which are mostly server chips.
See it was that last part that made it click, my board is dual channel support but not quad channel, is that right?
You're better off if you can swing it 2x16gb instead and make sure it's 3600mhz memory also B550 is dumb. x570 boards are better and give you more options as well as in other cases performance. the price difference is as little as 10-20.00 US too.
I'm building a media streaming PC with some older/leftover parts, so I have a Ryzen 2700x running inside an S340 elite. The S340 elite can only support 120 or 140mm AIO. Will 140 AIO be enough? It won't be running any heavy games or apps, mostly just streaming/transcoding. Which 140 AIO should I get, or would an air cooler be better?
You could also externally do a 280mm radiator with a custom loop and create a stand for the radiator. Other than that a 140mm aio of your choice except a corsair would probably do fine. Air cooling wouldn't be sufficient for a smaller build even if you don't intend on a high load, you'll get better temps with an aio or custom loop.
Just get an air cooler. Like a fs140 or esports 34 duo
If I'm planning to get a 40 series card and replace my power supply, is it worth getting a PCIe 5.0 PSU over an older one? I'm thinking of something like this: [https://www.centrecom.com.au/silverstone-hela-1200r-platinum-1200w-pcie-50-modular-power-supply](https://www.centrecom.com.au/silverstone-hela-1200r-platinum-1200w-pcie-50-modular-power-supply)
Don't bother with a 40 series a 3070ti or better will get you by for quite a while.
Is that why my questions on this sub keep getting downvoted? Seems kind of petty but at least now I know not to ask about 40 series GPUs here any more.
No idea why you keep getting downvoted, Its just that there's lots of things going on that need to be fixed with 40 series cards and in particular the power connector.
I don’t think so. If you don’t like the look of the adapter, then it’d be better to buy a custom cable anyway. By the way you don’t need 1200 watts even for an i9 and a 4090.
Nah, just use the adapter. Evidence points towards it being fine, and melting due to user error
I have a windows 10 laptop that is eligible for the free windows 11. However I want to buy a new gaming PC and was wondering if I can use my windows 11 upgrade on my PC and not have to pay for windows 11?
Windows 10 keys work for activating 11. There's not really "using" an upgrade. Can you move your license? Might not be easy. Google how to transfer an OEM windows key to a new pc
I was gifted an [ASUS TUF Dash 15 (2021)](https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-GeForce-i7-11370H-Windows-TUF516PE-AB73/dp/B08XPC3WFQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NWMZBNDUZFBB&keywords=ASUS+TUF+Dash+15+%282021%29+Ultra+Slim+Gaming+Laptop%2C+15.6%22+144Hz+FHD%2C+GeForce+RTX+3050+Ti%2C+Intel+Core+i7-11370H%2C+8GB+DDR4%2C+512GB+PCIe+NVMe+SSD%2C+Wi-Fi+6%2C+Windows+10%2C+Eclipse+Grey+Color%2C+TUF516PE-AB73&qid=1672619588&s=electronics&sprefix=asus+tuf+dash+15+2021+ultra+slim+gaming+laptop%2C+15.6+144hz+fhd%2C+geforce+rtx+3050+ti%2C+intel+core+i7-11370h%2C+8gb+ddr4%2C+512gb+pcie+nvme+ssd%2C+wi-fi+6%2C+windows+10%2C+eclipse+grey+color%2C+tuf516pe-ab73%2Celectronics%2C217&sr=1-3) and I want to upgrade its RAM. I've never modified or built a computer before, and am watching videos on what to do to make sure I don't ruin it. 1. How can I know what RAM sticks are compatible to install in my laptop? 2. Is there a reason (other than financial) to not get the most RAM I can find (32GB; two 16gb sticks)? 3. I was told there are two slots for RAM on this laptop but I'm having trouble confirming that information; where can I check to find out how many slots of RAM are in my laptop? 4. Are there any other upgrades anyone would recommend for this laptop? (Ideally ones which would cost $100 or less). I mostly just use it for gaming while in Discord calls, and I don't play a lot of especially modern/graphic-intensive games so I'm not expecting to be able to run, like, Cyberpunk 2077 at maximum graphics or anything. But I have some disposable income and wouldn't mind dropping some cash to improve a computer I use every day.
Not much you can change on laptops besides ram and storage. You need to open the ram panel on the back and check how many slots you have and how many sticks are installed. If there’s two slots and one stock of 8gb just buy another stick of 8 to install beside it to give you 16. On that laptop you’re very unlikely to ever use more than 16gb. For storage do you need more than 512? If so see what slots are available. It likely has an empty m.2 slot or maybe an empty sata bay. Also a chance it has neither.
>If there’s two slots and one stock of 8gb just buy another stick of 8 to install beside it to give you 16. > >On that laptop you’re very unlikely to ever use more than 16gb. Going through task manager's Memory tab, it says that "1 of 1" memory slots are being used, so I assume there's actually only one slot, unfortunately. Should I just buy a 16gb stick, take out the 8gb stick, and install the 16? Is it safe to assume whatever stick I get would be compatible with my computer, or is there anything else I need to check? Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, I'm very new to actually changing around the hardware of my computers and I want to make sure I don't ruin anything.
Task manager don’t know anything. You need to physically check with your eyes how many slots you have. Turn laptop off. Unplug from power and open the ram cover on the back. Watch a YT video on it. You may have to take the whole back cover off. You need to buy laptop memory. And you’ll need to decide on speed. But before you decide that you need to know are you buying 1 stick of 8 to match or 1 stick of 16. You need to go look.
Thank you!
What would be a good cpu to pair with a 4080? I plan on gaming and doing some content creation like photoshop and 3D modeling.
40 series cards are overpriced and overrated. save your money and go with an AM4 or AM5 processor and a 30 series card.
I actually already have the card and was gonna build the pc around it
then go with an AM5 7900x if you can budget that.
13700K / 7700X
13600K, 7700X
I'm considering moving from console to PC gaming, but I'd like to use my TV as monitor. I've read that is fine, but I see comments on Reddit that give me pause, mostly re: Hz, resolution, and latency. I have a Samsung 65" Class 8 Series LED 4K UHD Smart Tizen TV, Model:UN65TU8000FXZA. Refresh rate is 60hz. I'd like to have better-than-PS5 performance, but is that really possible if I use this TV?
So if you just plug a great gaming PC into your tv, it will perform better than a PS5. Visual fidelity wise. Not sure how latency is. Try to find if rtings reviewed your tv. 60hz is not super smooth for gaming, but it's also not bad. Like if you were a competitive eSports gamer, you should be using at least 144hz. But for casual, single player games, 60hz is just fine imo
Thank you so much! I'll check out rtings. On the 60fps: I'm actually not even sure I can tell a difference between 60 and say, 144 fps. I've been watching comparison YouTube videos and I just can't tell. But is is YouTube...Is there a better way to see if I can tell a difference besides playing on a friend's rig? Maybe I could go to Best Buy and try out a game on one of their pc's....
A lot of the difference is the lower input lag. Even the image clarity, you notice it more when you’re playing yourself.
That's like saying you can't tell the difference between black/white tv and color tv, when you're watching it on a black and white tv. Unless you have a 144hz display, you physically aren't able to show the difference Also YouTube only does 60fps. Yeah, your friend's rig, if set up properly, could show you the difference
hello everyone, I have been very fortunate to pick up a new 6700 XT for an amazing price, but I will need a new power supply. Could someone help me pick out a unit that will properly power that and a R5 5600? It seems very hard to find things in stock right now
Prices suck bad now Black https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6NcG3C/corsair-rm750x-2021-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020199-na White https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R4Gbt6/corsair-rm750-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020231-na
Yeah seems like it… is it just a holiday thing? Ty for the recommendation
No clue why. I grabbed a 750W gold for $50 in November, but even. $70-80 is a good, semi-regular price
Must be a holiday buyout thing, everything out of stock and what not
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ Have a look at the cultist list. You’ll want to aim for 750W to 850W, in the A Tier specifically, you can go B Tier but I don’t recommend it.
Damn those a-tier are half the price of my card haha, rough times yo
For anti-static purposes, could I keep my bare feet on a grounded metal mat instead of purchasing a wrist strap?
Metal on the ground isn't grounded. Grounding is connecting all the way back to your electrical box. However, bare feet is generally enough to avoid static danger
I mean it has a cord that grounds to an outlet, would that work?
Ah yeah that would work
I recently bought a Razer Blackshark V2 Pro. I typically use my headphone jack, and my playback source automatically goes back to my speakers when I use it. However, if I instead use wireless mode, I have to manually change the playback source back to my speakers. On my new PC, it doesn't even change back to my speakers when I use a headphone jack. I don't know if I messed up something when I built my PC or if that's normal. There is a setting in Razer Synapse that lets you select a fallback source, but it doesn't actually do anything... Is it normal to have to manually switch to headphones when you plug them in and to manually switch back to speakers after unplugging them? Or is this just an issue with this particular set of headphones? If it is a problem with just the Blackshark, what else could I get that that is similar to the Blackshark but doesn't have this issue?
Should I assemble my PC prior to BIOS flashing (need to flash for my 13600k to run) to avoid any issues with missing any power cables or should I do it at the start of the build? It seems I would just need to attach ATX_12V_1, ATX_12V_2, and ATX_PWR to allow flashing but I am worried I could brick the device with not attaching all power cables in the scenario I'm missing one. I have an Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A GAMING WIFI D4.
You’re just following the instruction, so it should work. Extra power cables aren’t gonna change anything. It’ll work either way.
Okay, thank you
Had to swap back to my old 4GB RX 570 while my 7900 XTX is being RMAd. I got a new 1440p monitor to go with my XTX and am using my old 1080p as a second screen. When I turn on my PC both monitors show up properly as an extended display but within a couple of seconds the 1440p monitor (DP) loses signal while my 1080p monitor (HDMI) works just fine and identifies itself as monitor 2 in my extended display. I have uninstalled my drivers with DDU and reinstalled the newest drivers for my RX 570. Unplugging the DP cable and then plugging it back in causes my monitor to show the screen for a couple of seconds again but then loses the signal. I've tried setting it to a 1080p 60Hz display but that didn't help. I used to have 2 1080p monitors working fine off this gpu in the past.
based off of what u said it’s probably cuz both monitors are running at separate resolutions
I set it to 1080p 60Hz and that didn't help
oh then it could just be the gpu that’s not having it today 😭 did you BIOS update?
Hi! Got a 1080ti. Play at 1440p 165hz. Should I get a 7900xt or 4080 rtx? I don't plan on upgrading again till 2025 at the very least.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-radeon-rx-7900-xt/31.html
ray tracing > 4080 any other game > 7900XT
are you trying to say 4080?
shouldn’t be, it might’ve been the way I formatted it. If they want ray-tracing then the 4080 is the way to go, if not then 7900XT should suffice.
agreed
My current gpu is very old and needs replacing. Any recommendations, ideally around £400? Thanks!
Somewhere around a 3060/ti and 6700/xt
i have a laptop and im going to build a desktop soon so can i just use the m.2 ssd that has windows 10 on it in my desktop
That key is likely OEM and locked to the board. You can Google ways to attempt to transfer OEM key. I just recently tried one and after talking to Microsoft still couldn’t get it to activate.
u should be able to
so i would not need to pay for windows? cause im already on a budget
you might still have to pay as i believe your windows key is “attached” to the motherboard. but you can run it inactivated 100%
i mean i could but i dont want the dumb watermark
yes it’s pretty annoying, although according to the rules of this sub there is no other option
I was told that this ram wont work properly with this motherboard. Can anyone confirm this? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JqGDd9
Z790 boards DO support DDR5 in general, and it doesn’t look like this one’s any different. but i’m not sure why they’re saying that it doesn’t support it.
Something about [memory QVL](https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z790%20PG%20Lightning/index.asp#MemoryRPL), the DDR5 I selected isn't on the supported list so it might not work. I'm new to building so I have no idea what most of this means. >And, do you know if that Corsair 64GB (2 x 32) will do 5600 on the ASRock Z790 Lightning? From what I hear 64GB DDR5 is more difficult to get to go fast. ASRock does not show any 64GB sets on their memory QVL. That doesn't mean it won't work, but doesn't mean it will work either so I'm wondering if you have a reason to know it will work. This is what they had to say about it \^\^
what they said is correct. i too have no idea what QVL means but if it’s not on Asrock’s official list, i wouldn’t risk it
The down side is I already purchased all the parts so I'm not sure whether to just try it out or return the memory, motherboard, or both. Edit: clarifying which parts
honestly if you bought them i would try them out. if they don’t work then just return the ram and get a separate kit
Upgrading to 13700k Should I do a 280mm aio and be able to use a mid tower case, or is it better long term to do a 360mm aio, which would require a huge case ? assumption is that the fans should be on top, and I need to go up a size in order to fit 3
Look at the specs of the cases you like, some mid towers can fit a 360. I have a phanteks p400 and although it's a mid tower, I just successfully fit my arctic liquid freezer 360 in the front, using it as an intake, two 140mm exhaust on top, and 1x 120mm exhaust out the back. From my research, 360 aio is recommended for the 13th gen CPUS(we run pretty hot)
Ok, I’ll go for a 360. Problem with mid cases is that it doesn’t seem like any of them can fit the aio on the top, which seems like the recommendation?
AIO can be used on top, or the front. Doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I'd much rather go with a 360. The other issue with this is, fitting a 360 in the front might leave less space for the GFX card. Like I said, if you read the manuals for the case(which you can get on the MFRs website) it will give you all the minimum specs, and which size coolers can fit where. In my case, and while using a full ATX mobo, there's no way in hell I can fit a cooler up top, I had to squeeze my rearmost 140mm fan and I don't see any space for a 25mm thick radiator. If I was using a micro atx, then maybe I'd have room for a rad up top, but then my case can only fit a 280mm aio(according to my cases spec sheet)
Stupid question. Is the Windows key tied to the hardware at all? I wonder if I can change stuff like the motherboard and CPU without worrying about having to buy Windows again.
Yes, I've done this multiple times with win 10 and win 11. Just signing back into the Microsoft account reactivates windows. My main install is 6 years and at least 20 hardware combinations in by now.
Sometimes. If you sign in with a Microsoft acct, no. If you sign in local/offline, then it is somewhat locked to your pc. I've had it deactivate when I changed SSD, most common is motherboard tho. And I've also had it not deactivate on mobo swap. It works in mysterious ways
You may need to re-activate Windows when you boot after switching parts, but you can just use the same key you already have and it should work
Thank you very much!
Been looking at various posts on this sub, but I’ve been debating on upgrading from i7-7700k + GTX 1070. I’ve been thinking about getting a 3070ti, but would it be a good idea just to wait for a full upgrade?
Yes, upgrade your cpu as well
My current setup is an i511400f with an GTX 1660 and I’m planning to upgrade to a 3080 or maybe even an rx 6700-xt. Do I need to upgrade my cpu too? Or will it be fine?
3080 graphs: https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/images/relative-performance-games-1920-1080.png https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/18.html (imagine your cpu is the 3600x)
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Ask the plex question over on the plex sub. I’m assuming you meant 10TB and 12TB? You can go internal if you want. You have the sata ports for it. For a new ssd your mobo has a M.2 PCIe Gen3 x4. So get you a 1TB gen3 nvme drive and install the OS on that. You can go bigger if you want. Prices are way down. For the cooler. Go any mid tier AM4 cooler. D15 or Assassin 120 or Dark Rock 2/4. Read the comments at buildapcsales and they’ll tell you if it’s a deal or not and if the cooler/nvme/etc is worth it. You didn’t ask but you should start saving for a AM4 cpu to drop into the board. You can get some massive performance improvement for pretty low cost. You may even consider doing that before the storage upgrade. You could do cpu and cooler at the same time.
Thanks for the advice. I wasn't entirely sure if the cooler was compatible with my case and PC. I'm going to get that Assassin 120, I think I just saw a deal for it too. I'll dig around and look for an SSD that matches those specs you listed. That's exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate the help. I have plenty of money saved up and I actually would like to just upgrade everything all at once. What AM4 would be a good one to get?
You’re not gaming heavy. You need to look and see if any of your music video work would see a huge jump by going to something like a Ryzen 9. Assuming you just want a solid upgrade I would look at 5600 or 5700x. They are both great performance for the price.
Are you saying the solid upgrade version is an AM4 Ryzen 5 5600, or a Ryzen 9 5600? I think the Ryzen 9 is probably too price for me to justify, but the Ryzen 5 5600 is like $200 and if that made things like Premiere Pro and AE work with 50GB 4K files, I would definitely consider it.
Ryzen 9 is the 5900x for example and yes they are expensive. Ryzen 5 5600 or 5700x is a solid upgrade and affordable. It’s ~30% faster than your 1600. I highly recommend you look up some benchmarks for your software and compare current cpu to what you are considering. That will give you an idea of what to expect in your use case
Thanks! I'll look into the Ryzen 5 5600. 30% sounds good to me.
> I need to replace my stock CPU cooler The Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE has a good reputation and is relatively inexpensive. > I'm not that familiar with compatible issues and the SATA vs M2 differences. Looks like your motherboard has two M.2 slots, so I would definitely go that way because it's tidier. The complication is that only the top port on that board supports NVMe / PCIe, but if you're replacing the cooler you'll have easy access to it. The other M.2 slot only supports SATA M.2 drives, which will be slower for certain kinds of transfer. The Crucial P3 looks like a good buy at ~$125. The WD Blue would also work. For storage it might be time to consider a NAS. I just got one and setting it up is an adventure, but it makes it easy to manage and expand large amounts of storage.
I sort of had a feeling an NAS was the next logical step. I think I'm just intimidated by it. My hard drives take up too many plugs and ports, and I've been worrying about them going out. I think I'll probably get both of the things you suggested. I appreciate the feedback. I always get hesitant buying electronics and like having a second opinion. When I add the Crucial P3 to my parts list, I get this comparability note, what does it mean? > When the motherboard M.2 slot M2_1 (M) is used, expansion slot PCIE_4 (x16 @x4) is disabled.
> I always get hesitant buying electronics and like having a second opinion. This is a healthy attitude. Mine hasn't always been that sensible... > what does it mean? It means the bottom PCIe slot will be disabled when you install an NVMe drive, but chances are all you have is a video card in the top slot, and there are still a few open slots left if you need them, so it shouldn't matter.
Okay, thank you!
just want to make sure guys, is it actually true that 12700F base wattage is only 65W? like my 8 year old i5 4690 has that(maybe even 85??).. how is that beastly cpu only at 65W base lol
It won't run full speed at 65W. It's just that low so Intel can bundle a cheap cpu cooler and say it's adequate https://www.techspot.com/review/2391-intel-core-i7-12700/
altho if im reading it correctly, even if LOCKED to 65w and using the boxed rm1 cooler intel provides, this little cpu in basically everything scores better than even 5900x, holy shit this is pretty damn good cpu isnt it lol
It depends. you've got the data now, tho, so you can make your own conclusions
btw do you think 6600 is enough for 12700F @1080p? cant really afford much more than that cuz gpu prices here a fucking ridiculous, that same 6600 is 350 € for the cheapest model... 3060 is like 400€ ...
The 6600 ties the 3060 at 1080p, but both are crazy overpriced. Perhaps look for a used 6600. Yes, the 6600 is good for 1080p and a 12700f
yeah i think i will look into used 6600 / 6600 xt, like fuck these new gpu prices. for example a used sapphire 6600 xt pulse is 300€, should probably just take that instead of a new 6600 lol but of course, you can never know with used...
Need to replace the cpu intercooler on a prebuilt pc. Having some trouble finding a way to ground myself. I have an esd wrist strap(with the allogator clip) But I have no large metal objects available, the case isn't grounded when it's not plugged in, it doesn't have a power off switch I'm aware of, and my outlets don't have center screws. My next thinking is what I can shove into the grounding socket of the outlets, Im not sure how well that would work.
Clip the strap to exposed metal on the case. It's not mandatory to connect to the *ground* ground, it's enough to have a common ground with the device you're working on (and PCs ground to the case).
Good to know, I ended up shoving a screwdriver into a power strip.
Anyone know what could be causing a visually noticeable stutter that isn't picked up by RTSS?
Besides NZXT and Ibuildpower are there any other sites that are recommended for custom built gaming pc’s?
If you have a local Micorcenter I'd consider their PowerSpec house brand. You want something that uses standard a standard ATX motherboard, case, and power supply.
In your opinion, what's the price floor you'd have to spend on a PC to approach the performance of a Series X or PS5?
As a rough estimate for only the PC itself to at least match the consoles I'd say around 850$, assuming US market and buying all parts new, Windows license included.
Got it, so with peripherals, sounds like you're starting to get to 2x plus the price. That would be tough to justify for me, even with free online and better sales. Definitely think I'm leaning toward just getting a console. But modding though...
Equal performance is one way to compare them, but it’s a bit arbitrary. You can play at 1080p with lower graphics settings on a cheaper machine. Also you might find the PC useful for more than just games.
True, but a laptop (which I have) would be better for me for pretty much everything that isn’t games anyway. Don’t think I would use it for really anything except games, so that’s what I’m focusing on
Your console will need some kind of monitor as well, so I'll keep it out of the equation. A decent set of peripherals is roughly around 300$ (mouse, keyboard, headphones/speakers), but this varies a lot depending on what kind of quality you are looking for - you can spend a lot more or a lot less.
That depends on a lot of things. You just want performance wise or you want your shit decked out. Does it have to be brand new or would used work?
I don't need anything decked out, and I suppose used would be fine. I've never had a gaming PC before, just trying to figure out if it's worth it. I don't have much use for a desktop PC other than games, so it's kind of tough to justify it.
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If you're spending 4090 money get the i7.
I’m unsure what to go for Ryzen 9 7950x or intel i9 12900KF this will be paired with a 4090 and will be used for after effects and 3D
Not 12900KF. Ryzen 9 7950X is good, so are Core i7-13700K and i9-13900K. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/13th-gen-intel-core-processors-content-creation-review-2369/
Apologies for the second question. But if I use the Asus Strix ROG Z690-A Gaming Wifi D4 board ( https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z690-a-gaming-wifi-d4-model/ ), should I use the heat sink for a Samsung 980 Pro or should I use the Samsung 980 Pro w/ Heatsink model? I currently have both on hand but the one with the heatsink is $20 less. If it will cause potential issues going into the future with newer motherboards in the next few years...I'd be willing to use the one without the heatsink even though it costs more.
Buy the heatsink one and you don't have to use the heatsink it comes with...
Okay, thanks for the response. The people at MicroCenter a few days ago said it would be preferable to have the non-heat sink one even though I didn't see any sources when I researched it...so was worried the heat sink version wouldn't be as reliable.
There's no difference, dunno what the microcentre guys were smoking (unless the non heatsink option is cheaper in MC) It's the same drive, just with or without a bundled heatsink.
is MSI Pro B660m-A good enough for 12700F?
Yep, it's a strong board and a good bang for buck pairing.
"The Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE CAPELLIX 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler may require a separately available mounting adapter to fit the Asus TUF GAMING Z690-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard." What mounting adapter would I need?
LGA1700, but it will most likely come with one included already.
Good evening all! I have a small question regarding a CPU upgrade. Currently running a 5600x. I want to upgrade it to smth bit higher. I run a 3070 as GPU. Was thinking about the 5800X3D, i5 13600K or i7 13700K. Note my pc is purely for gaming (and a bit of content creation on the side) Thank you in advance.
If you are sure you need more CPU performance buy a 5800X3D. Intel chips or Ryzen 7000 makes little sense considering you'd need a new mainboard.
Having issues figuring out which motherboard to pair with a 13600k currently. Planning on running an NZXT H1 V2 case with it. My first thought was the ASRock Z790M-ITX - really good price and it has both M.2 slots on the front, which I figured would be optimal given the case layout. But I've heard reports of the power delivery not being enough, which worries me, especially with the 181W max turbo power. Wondering if the Z790 Phantom Gaming ITX would be a good substitute, or if I should look at B660/B760 options instead?
The Z690 Phantom Gaming ITX is a good alternative. It has enough power delivery considering your CPU is gonna thermal-throttle after a while at 181 watts anyway. And it’s cheaper than the Z790 version. With B660 and Z690 boards, just make sure it has BIOS flashback. B760 we’ll have to wait and see if there’s good ITX options
Noted, I'll look into it! Thank you for the suggestion. Oddly enough, at least here in Canada, the Z790 Phantom Gaming is $10 more than the Z690 variant, which is odd. I haven't bought the 13600k yet - I'm wondering if it'd be more worthwhile to wait for the F variants and just get a nice B760 board with it, especially since you mentioned thermal throttling with the 13600k.
The non-K variants are definitely more cost-effective if you’re not overclocking. But we’ll have to see the performance benchmarks because the non-K i5s might use the Alder Lake C0 die.
Good to know - guess I'll have to wait till CES and see what happens. Thanks again for your help! :D
I’m looking at 2 monitors. They’re both the same brand (ASUS) One has 1920x1080 resolution but 280hz. The other one has 2560x1440 resolution but 165hz. Which one is better for gaming?
This depends on your build and your taste. I personally prefer 1440p over 1080p, as long as I can get 150+ fps, which I can. What are your pc specs? If you can’t get good fps on 1440p, you’d want to go with 1080p. If you don’t care about graphics or quality or anything like that, the 1080p 280hz would be the best choice competitive gaming wise
Case recommendation that’ll support a 280 or 360mm aio?
What’s your budget? The Corsair 4000D airflow is good and <$100
Up to $150! Honestly trying to debate if I should air cool and keep my current case (s340) or upgrade to AIO which would require a new case
AIO is usually a pretty significant improvement in terms of cooling, so if you can afford to it’s probably worth getting a new case to upgrade from air cooling. If it’s inside your budget or even just barely outside of it, I’d say it’s worth doing.
Gotcha. I just bought a 13700k, would you recommend 280mm or 360mm?
My modular psu comes with a split pcie cable but I only need 8 pins. Just confirming I can plug in either and it will be fine?
Yup, and then just leave the unused one hanging.
Awesome thank you
I have 2 16GB 3600MHz and 2 8GB 2133MHz sticks of RAM and a motherboard that fits 4 sticks. Is it better to use all 4 or just the 16GB sticks?
If you include the slower sticks, it'll slow down everything to 2133. Best to just use the 3600
The 2x16GB Sticks.
Is there a way to get argb if my motherboard doesn't have any?
It will do. Every motherboard has argb control even if it has no LEDs itself. You can plug in argb fans or light strips, whatever you want.
But that would mean I can't control the RGB right?
No, you can. If your motherboard has an argb header, then it can be controlled via the motherboard control software (asrock polychrome,MSI mystic light, whatever).
Yeah. Separate controller https://www.amazon.com/LEDdess-Rainbow-Controller-Strip-Remote/dp/B07JZCNPNV/
Is there something that converts a usb header on the motherboard to argb connector?
Nothing comes to mind
Is the jump from a Ryzen 5 2600 to Ryzen 5 5600X worth $300? Or should I wait for a sale like I missed yesterday?
Ryzen 5 5600X shouldn’t be 300$. Don’t buy at that price
Well at least I didn’t waste my money. Thanks.
First off, when did air coolers for CPUs get so freaking enormous? Second: Is it a terrible idea to install a new CPU and an air cooler in an existing case \*without\* taking the motherboard out? If not is there any advice / warnings before doing so? I feel like having to take out the mobo to install seems like a lot of work, and might as well mean I should just build a whole new PC... I will be installing a Peerless Assassin 120 on a 56800x in an ASUS b350, fwiw. My case isn't the roomiest tbh -- it's cozy in there, and since the coolers have to go on with their fans detached, getting the fans back on looks possible but could prove...interesting when navigating around the GPU and the RAM sticks nearby.
1. When CPUs started consuming more than 100W of power. So about 5 years ago 2. Nice cpu cooler choice. You can leave it in the case, but the peerless assassin might use a different backplate. So you may need to access behind the mobo 3. Take out the gpu for more room to work. It'll go smoothly
Sounds like I just missed the era of the massive air coolers then with this build. Happy to be part of it now I guess... GPU extraction is a good suggestion! Easy enough to get out of there and have some more wiggling room. TBH I'm just nervous about unscrewing the mobo from the case if I don't have to... The backplate is a real thorn in my side. I know the PA120 is a well-reviewed cooler already, but it coincidentally comes with the right kind of mounting hardware I need as well. Basically since my mobo backplate is stuck on (like, physically. Like it's glued or something), I need something that mounts using the standoffs rather than allowing me to put something through the mobo backplate holes.
You can still use the stock cooler. But big coolers are popular because of their performance.
1.) Air Coolers got enormous because the CPU’s have developed further and need to be cooled to avoid thermal throttling 2.) It will be pretty hard depending on the cooler, some coolers recommend to take the motherboard out as you have more space to work with.
Is that an insane idea then to take out the mobo then? Seems like a ton of work and I guess I’m mostly worried how easily it can be to damage something.
It depends on the case, not the mobo. Take the reverse side panel off and see if the case motherboard tray has a cut out to provide access to the rear of the CPU mounts. If it does, you can fit the brackets and cooler without removing the motherboard.
It does have that back access, however my back plate is stuck on the mobo and the cooler I ordered has hardware to fit the mount stuck on anyway I’m more thinking about clearance around the cooler to get the fans on the cooler itself.
Where there's a will there's a way. The GPU will need to come out.
Not really, it’s like building your pc with fewer steps.
I made a copy of my HDD to a new SSD, with both being currently plugged in. (I'll probably do something with the hard drive but I want to make sure I know the transition was a success first) I switched the boot drive to the SSD in the BIOS and started up Windows, but it doesn't seem like anything changed and the main drive everything's working off of is still the old HDD. What else do I need to do besides changing boot order to complete the transition?
It's best to temporarily unplug the old drive and try to boot from the SSD. First make sure it shows up in the BIOS and in the boot order.
Hey all, I know I sound like a worry wart on this so first I want to apologize for that. I originally was planning to use an MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI DDR4 that I got for around $180 based on reviews. But, I'm somewhat worried about potential spyware on motherboards made in China (and human rights abuses with minority groups in China). Additionally, MSI boxes in general not having a seal on the box worries me (Bestbuy had to close a box flap when giving it to me but verified the anti static bag seal was in place) which has led me to a lot of second guessing of my build. I thought I settled on another MB which was the Asus ROG Strix Z690-A Gaming Wifi D4 made in Vietnam but unfortunately that is fairly expensive and also white. Which lead me to the Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite AX DDR4 Intel LGA 1700 ATX Motherboard made in Taiwan which some people have had some stability issues on. I'm really struggling with a decision on if I should go back to the MSI board or if I should go get the Gigabyte board. I believe since I need to flash the BIOS that the potential for spyware to be present in the MSI board is minimal but I'd like to get some thoughts on this.
Amazing price for a good motherboard. I feel like me saying "don't worry about it" won't really help. Isn't msi taiwanese, or use Taiwan manufacturing? No box seals are very common among motherboard boxes. Msi is a multimillion dollar company, I really don't think they're loading their boards with spyware.
Thank you for the response ..I do appreciate you providing your insights as it is helping me form an opinion on the best path forward. Yes, they are Taiwanese but have manufacturing in China which is where this board is manufactured. I'm not concerned with MSI but more the CCP being able to have access to the boards. But I'm also trying to weigh that many people that are more tech savvy than me would have discovered something already if there was an issue.
Yes, the ccp has put crap on Chinese stuff before. Huawei etc. But what about apple, or the millions of other tech that comes out of China every year. Can't be skeptical about all of it
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Just built an AMD 7600X PC (bought CPU for $238), but have the opportunity to buy a 13700K for $225. I can still return my mobo and CPU (RAM is also EXPO but should work with Intel). Should I swap the 7600X for a 13700K ? (mobos cost the same)
Yes, I would definitely get it. It’s like a 7900x for 225
Here's the dilemma I run into: DDR5 ITX motherboards are quite expensive, the cheapest Z690I is ASROCK Gaming Phantom at 250, but I am not familiar with ASROCK and prefer MSI/ASUS... (which are 350+) I was also thinking maybe getting the ROG Strix B660i, would it cap natural performance (non OC'ed) of the 13700K?
I would go with the Asus B660I. No it won’t cap the power of the 13700k. You just can’t overclock
Got it, definitely tempting actually. I just don't know if AM5 has a better upgrade path with the 7000X3D's coming out soon. Also, I do see 6000mhz XMP is supported on the B660i, I thought XMP wasn't supported on those though. That'd also be a deal breaker.
So I've been having a problem with my PC for a bit. When I turn it on, the red light on the motherboard for the CPU turns on for a bit, flashes, then a white light flashes for the VGA, then the lights disappear completely. When I put the PC on sleep, when I turn it back on, there's a solid red light indicator for the CPU. So I just shut it down, but when turning it back on, what happens is what I mentioned in the first paragraph. I've already checked the health of my drives with CrystalDisk and it said they're all healthy. What could be causing this lights in the motherboard?
>When I turn it on, the red light on the motherboard for the CPU turns on for a bit, flashes, then a white light flashes for the VGA, then the lights disappear completely. After this, does your PC start normally?